The Travelling Naturalist Falklands – January 2008 Trip Report Falkland Islands 10 to 23 January 2008 Trip Report Leader: Neil Arnold The Support Team: Jo Turner Ken & Bonnie, Richard Jacqui & Alan, Aiden, Dana Rob & Lorraine, Ricky & Sarina, Rolden & Eva Michael & Jeannette, Roddy & Lil Jenny & her team, Richard Carl & his team Sharon, Nobby & Miranda & Paddy Mickey & Steve Falkland Island Holidays Darwin Pebble Carcass West Point Sea Lion Malvina House Volunteer Point Crew ‘John Byron’ Introduction It is wonderful to reflect that we had the best possible weather for so long, apart that is from whenever we’d planned to venture out to sea. Eventually we even managed that! I am most grateful to you all for your enthusiastic company. I am especially appreciative of the support team and of Marjorie and Jean for preparing such an interesting plant list. I hope you will hold this holiday in your mind for ever and that we’ll meet again soon. Best wishes Neil Arnold, Partner, The Travelling Naturalist. Diary Weather measurements from: - Silva Alba Windwatch ( & Mark One Eyeball) Thursday 10 January Having gathered at Brize Norton in good time, we were able to get to know each other before leaving for Mount Pleasant in the Falklands. Friday 11 January Darwin: Weather at 17.30, 8°C, SW20mph, 996mb, 7/8cu. We took off just after midnight for the first leg of the journey, arriving at Ascension Island at 08.20GMT. Whilst waiting for the aircraft to be refuelled we had reasonably good views of the endemic Ascension Frigatebird and closer views of Common waxbill and Common Mynah. We set off for the Falklands at 09.30 and altered our watches to local time. At 13.40 we were joined by two Tornado fighters which escorted us into the Mount Pleasant Base. They flew just off our wingtips so the photographic opportunities in good light were excellent. Suddenly they both inverted and dived away through the clouds. We were met at the Terminal by Ken Greenwood from Darwin House and Jo Turner, The Manager of Falkland Island Holidays. Soon we were driving into the ‘Camp’ and from time to time we stopped to 1 The Travelling Naturalist Falklands – January 2008 Trip Report admire birds. Crested Caracara, Turkey Vultures and Variable Hawks were busy ‘cleaning up’ sheep carcasses. Ducks and geese were feeding in the wetlands and we were lucky enough to see a pair of Black-throated Finches very close to the road. At Darwin House, Bonnie soon had us settled and as we drank our tea and enjoyed a range of cakes, we admired Black-chinned Siskins feeding on the ‘Red Hot Pokers’ just outside the lounge window. By 17.30 we were walking in the grounds where we were able to watch a good variety of birds including Falkland Steamer Duck, Rock Shag, Black-crowned Night Heron and the two local Oystercatchers. Perhaps the most endearing sight was the flock of Ruddy-headed Geese quietly mowing the lawn. We were then joined by a mixed flock of Two-banded Plover and White-rumped Sandpiper. South American Tern, Kelp Gull, Subantarctic Skua and a number of Southern Giant Petrels joined the throng. After a very substantial meal we repaired to bed. Saturday 12 January Darwin: Weather am 996mb, 7/8cu, 10°C, NW23mph, dull, pm 3/8 cu, sunny, warmer, wind dropped. Pre-breakfast walkers noted the first Magellanic Penguin and Silver Grebe of the trip. At 09.00 we all set off for San Carlos Water and by 09.30 we were walking around the rather stark Argentinian War Memorial on the hill overlooking Darwin. Then we were marvelling at a ‘stonerun’, a collection of jagged white quartzite rocks protruding from the surrounding moor, a remnant of weather generated rock splitting during the process of post-glacial solifluction. 10.30 saw us overlooking San Carlos Water before descending to the San Carlos Settlement, the site of the British landing in 1982. Here we visited the well designed and beautifully maintained British War Memorial adjacent to ‘Blue Beach’. Here eight soldiers and eight Royal Marines are laid to rest with an Army Air Corps pilot who died in a helicopter crash in later years. Neil found this very moving, especially as he was once a peace-time member of the Army Air Corps. Over the Bay was the settlement of Ajax Bay, the site of the ‘hospital’ for the landings. After a substantial lunch we set off to ‘re-enact in our minds’ the battle for Goose Green and Darwin, first driving out to the hill overlooking Camilla Creek. We were privileged to have Ken as our guide. He has a military background and a unique opportunity to meet many returning veterans and hear their eye-witness accounts of the battle. He soon set the scene and took us step by step through the conflict from the first shots fired at the attacking Second Division the Parachute Regiment (2 Para), to the moment their Commanding Officer Colonel ‘H’ Jones was killed, to the eventual surrender of over a thousand Argentinians who, though faced by a mere two hundred paras, had lost the will to continue the conflict. At 17.45 we set off back from Goose Green to walk the coast path back to Darwin. The sun shone, the birds posed, and camera shutters clicked. We had wonderfully close views of a variety of species. Even though the day had been primarily dedicated to the local history, we enjoyed encounters with Imperial Shags, Variable Hawks and Rufous-chested Dotterel amongst others. On our return to Darwin we weighed ourselves and our gear in readiness for the flight the following morning. Then came another grand meal! Sunday 13 January Darwin: weather 993mmb, 1/8 cu, ci. 21°C, NW 17mph, Sun A very early riser was rewarded by a sighting of a pair of Dusky Dolphins. After breakfast we left Darwin at 09.30 and reached Pebble Island at 10.00 to be met by Allan, Jacqui and Dana. On our 2 The Travelling Naturalist Falklands – January 2008 Trip Report arrival at the settlement a Tussock Moth was discovered in the entrance to the house. We were, of course, just in time for ‘smoko’. At 11.00 we set off for the Eastern end of the Island in three vehicles. The drive round Elephant Bay proved interesting as the tide was in, narrowing the beach somewhat. We visited a number of ponds including Betts Pond, Swan Pond and Big Pond, enjoying wonderful views of a number of wildfowl including Chiloë Wigeon, Yellow-billed Pintail and Black-necked Swan. One of the highlights of the day were Silvery and White-tufted Grebe at point blank range in wonderful sunlight. Double-banded Plover and Rufous-chested Dotterel were also noted. At one point a Dotterel in fine plumage stood on a Diddle-Dee plant calling loudly and head-bobbing in order to distract us away from a nearby chick. Allan showed us a collection of local flowering plants. Cape Tamar was visited at lunchtime. We were able to sit on this exposed headland in complete comfort as the wind dropped and the sun beat down on us. From this high point we were able to watch passing Black-browed Albatross and Southern Giant Petrel. Below us was an assembly of South American Sealions. Then our attention turned to two Peregrine Falcons wheeling backwards and forwards over the nearby craggy cliffs. This display was prolonged, the birds perching every so often before taking to the air again. The dark hood and strong moustachial stripes were very clear, a characteristic of the Falkland subspecies Cassini. Having spent some time watching Magellanic Penguins sitting outside their burrows, we moved on towards the neck of land leading to Tamar Point. Here we enjoyed prolonged views of the Penguin and Shag colony. The Imperial Shag colony was huge, perhaps twice the size of the previous year. As a consequence the Rockhopper Penguins bred at each end of the colony as usual and right in its midst. The Shag colony had young that were still being brooded on the nest while others were already moulting into their flight feathers. The Penguins in contrast had fairly well grown young. As we watched a fine Macaroni Penguin completed its preening and stuck its head up above the wall of Rockhoppers behind which it was sheltering. This produced some jubilation as there are only known to be four individuals on the Island. The Penguins and Shags had a supporting cast of Subantarctic Skuas, finely plumaged Dolphin Gulls and Snowy Sheathbills, all of which were busy ridding the colony of the weak and the already dead. On our return journey we lingered at the ponds and then, just as we reached the house, we were granted close views of a pair of Black-throated Finches, Black-crowned Night herons and a resident and seemingly beloved cow Sea Lion. The evening routine had now become established; far too much excellent food, the call-over and then off to bed. Monday 14 January Pebble: weather 993mb, 1/8 cu, ci, 15°C, NW 22mph. The early birds had their cobwebs blown away by the brisk NW wind; it was most refreshing. At 09.00 we left to drive to the West of the Island and by 09.20 we were paying our respects to the memorial for those who lost their lives in HMS Coventry. As we moved west we came across a fine male Variable Hawk in flight and later saw another at rest. Then there was a delightful interlude as we came across three Sedge Wrens, two of which appeared to be attracting our attention. We surmised that young may have been present. By 11.00 we were at Green Rincon, a crescent shaped bay which was stunningly beautiful. We saw a number of Magellanic Penguins in a roost where we also found two adult King Penguins. At the other end of the beach was a Giant Petrel colony which held fifty-eight adults and forty-two chicks – other adults were sweeping over the sea. We then stopped briefly at the memorial to the five Argentinian officers who died when their Learjet was shot down by a missile from HMS Exeter. 3 The Travelling Naturalist Falklands – January 2008 Trip Report As soon as we arrived at the Rockhopper colony we found two more Macaroni Penguins. This time they stood up in a gap so we could see the whole bird. Then Jacqui showed us the lone Erect-crested Penguin which had been visiting the colony for the past eleven years ( this species originates from the sub-Antarctic of New Zealand and has no business being in the Falklands!) We were amazingly lucky to have found two scarce species on land together. The sighting of six Penguin species in a day is almost certainly only achievable on Pebble Island. At 13.20 we climbed a little way up into Burny’s Rocks on Marble Mountain and ate our lunch in the lee of the wind. In the process we disturbed an immature Peregrine. By 14.25 we were at Pebble Beach where a variety of activities took place including ‘pebble combing’, albatross watching and enjoying the antics of the Gentoo colony. On the way back to the settlement we encountered Dotterel, Snipe with chicks, Siskins and Black-throated finches. Our final stop was at the wreckage of an Argentinian Dagger fighter shot down by the British. Tuesday 15 January Pebble: weather 1005mb, 2/8 ci, cu, 10°C, NW 15mph, Sun. We left Pebble Island in two flights, reaching Carcass Island by 11.00. There we were greeted by our host, Rob, and by Tussock Birds and Striated Caracaras. After lunch we drove north to Elephant Flat and walked around Shelder Pond, then along the shore towards North West Point crossing the promontory to the North East coast. Shelder Pond held good numbers of Falkland Steamer Ducks, Yellow-billed Teal, a great flock of Kelp and Ruddy-headed Geese and a lone Silvery Grebe. On the stone beach was a breeding colony of Kelp Gulls. The sandy beach was the realm of Southern Elephant Seals which were scattered in small groups all the way to North West Point. There were eighty four in all. We were also able to view two South American Fur Seals through our telescopes and then one took to the sea nearby. Our attention then turned to Double-banded Plover with chicks, and a constant stream of White-rumped Sandpipers. The beach now held flocks of Crested Duck and Magellanic Oystercatchers. While all this was taking place Southern Giant Petrels were gliding overhead and hordes of Imperial Shag were powering their way along the coast. The other delight was the frequency with which we noted Austral Thrush, Black-faced Ground Tyrant and Black-throated Finches. At least four Cobb’s Wrens also performed for us, running around the beach like small mammals. Moving through the tussock grass to the North West Beach we encountered rather aggressive Subantarctic Skuas and flushed a number of Magellan Snipe. We were then lucky enough to find a pod of eight Peal’s Dolphins which we watched for some time as they fished off shore. Back at the settlement we were forced to enjoy more food. Wednesday 16 January Carcass: weather 997 mb, 8/8 cu, 11°C, W 25mph, Dull, Sea state 3-4 The pre-breakfast walk gave us a chance to reinforce our identification skills. This involved twentythree species of birds in and around Port Pattison. By 9.30 we had joined Michael on his fishing boat and were heading for West Point Island. We all elected to stay out on deck where we were subjected to sea-spray as we ploughed into a Westerly wind. On West Point Island we were greeted by Roddy and Lil Napier, the owners. This was a special occasion as John Leonard was about to meet Roddy for the first time having been pen-friends as young boys, writing to each other from 1937 to 1939. An ambition of seventy years was realised. John and his family went off to the Napier’s home and the rest of us were entertained to smoko by Michael and Jeannette. 4 The Travelling Naturalist Falklands – January 2008 Trip Report Once we’d dried out we were driven to the Black-browed Albatross colony. Here we were able to watch the interaction between neighbouring Albatrosses and Rockhopper Penguins. What was even more fascinating was the chance to see the rituals between male and female Albatrosses. This was especially marked when an adult flew into the nest area. There followed an elaborate routine of beakfencing, head bowing and mutual preening. Only then did the chick attempt to beg for food by pecking at the bill of the newly arrived bird. Eventually the chick was fed. Many of the chicks were busy preening and stretching their wings despite the fact that flight was some weeks off. Later, after afternoon tea, we waddled our way to the jetty – we were beginning to get the feel of being a penguin! We had hoped to motor out to the west in search of seabirds but the weather conditions precluded this. We did however manage, between us, to see a Flying Steamer duck, seven Southern Sea Lions and two Brown-hooded Gulls as we motored along the shore of West Point Island. We then made a dash for Carcass, in a lively following sea. Our efforts were rewarded by sightings of two Common Diving Petrels and ten Sooty Shearwaters. One of the most fascinating events of the return trip, though, was coming across a tight raft of Imperial Shags with attendant Kelp Gulls, Magellanic Penguins, Blackbrowed Albatrosses and South American Terns. The Shags were fishing vigorously and the other species seemed to be taking advantage of the situation. It was surmised that a shoal of fish had been discovered. The evening: - More eating! Thursday 17 January Carcass: weather 998 mb, 7/8 cu, 7°C, cold, S 20mph. Bright Having bid our farewells to our hosts on Carcass Island we boarded two planes, the 09.30 flying to Sea Lion Island via Weddell Island and the 09.40 flying via Fox Bay. Those stopping at Weddell saw a herd of reindeer. We were all welcomed to Sea Lion by Jenny Luxton, the Manager of the Lodge, consumed the inevitable ‘smoko’ and then settled in. After lunch we drove to West End, calling at Tussac, Long and Beaver Ponds. These held a variety of wildfowl including Crested Duck, Speckled Teal, a pair of Silver teal and Chiloë Wigeon, all with young. There were also seventeen Silvery Grebe and the inevitable geese including the splendid Ruddy-headed Goose. The open grassland didn’t disappoint either, we noted flocks of Two-banded Plover and individual Rufous-chested Dotterel and Magellan Snipe. We then drove along the coast, stopping briefly at an Imperial Shag colony and the Rockhopper colony adjacent to the memorial to the fallen of HMS Sheffield where we stopped for a moment of quiet reflection. At East Loafers we stopped and looked at the sleeping Southern Sea Lions before setting off on foot towards the Lodge. A few gems were noted en route, a very close Sedge Wren in the grassland, Blackchinned Siskins, Black-throated Finches and Austral Thrushes in the gardens and a Magellan Snipe which was feeding in an open sandy area – a photographer’s gift! During afternoon tea we admired a group of Dolphin Gulls from the warmth of the lounge. A few hardy souls then marched to the Southern Giant Petrel colony where they had great views of the Petrels and a party of Sooty Shearwaters passing off shore. They also saw two roosting King Penguins. At 21.15 we attempted to find a Short-eared Owl but a constant wind and approaching rain curtailed our watch. The Owls had obviously decided it was more comfortable ‘indoors’. Friday 18 January 5 The Travelling Naturalist Falklands – January 2008 Trip Report Sea Lion: weather a.m. 1003mb, 8/8 cu, 10°C, W 9mph, short shower, p.m. 1005mb, 2/8 cu, 10°C, SW 12mph, Sun. The pre-breakfast walk revealed the continued presence of the King Penguins. At 09.00 we drove to the ‘Sheffield Memorial’ from which we walked back to the Lodge. After watching the antics of Rockhopper Penguins at the memorial we followed the fence line towards Long Pond which was full of bird life, a party of Silvery Grebes, and family groups of Chiloë Wigeon, Speckled Teal, Silver Teal, Crested Duck, Upland and Ruddy-headed Geese. Soon after, we discovered a pair of Southern Caracara which we were able to watch through our telescopes for some time. On the coast we enjoyed close views of resting Southern Elephant Seals and nearby were more South American Sea Lions with the bulls noisily defending their harem. One bull was deeply scarred around the face from previous battles. The area was conscientiously patrolled by a pair of Striated Caracara. Off shore was a raft of Southern Giant Petrels squabbling over the inverted carcass of a penguin. There appeared to be so much conflict that few chances were available for feeding. One the way back to the Lodge we got very close to a Magellan Snipe and a very confiding Sedge Wren. After a leisurely lunch, we walked east towards the Southern Giant Petrel colony. As we passed the Gentoo colony we came across the two King Penguins which some had seen earlier in the day. Out on the windswept beach we were entertained by feeding Two-banded Plovers, White-rumped Sandpipers and Magellanic Oystercatchers all of which were periodically moved on by a Striated Caracara. Once in the sand dunes we were able to observe part of the Giant Petrel colony without disturbing the birds. We were also able to look out to sea where a huge raft of Imperial Shags was feeding. One the edge of the kelp bed there was also great activity from feeding South American Terns. Much to our surprise we realised a scattering of sandpipers were feeding on the surface of the floating kelp. Beyond the kelp were some two hundred Black-browed Albatrosses on the sea and further investigation revealed fifty Sooty Shearwater passing through. Two resident Cobb’s Wren investigated our presence. More eating! Once again we stood on the airstrip hoping to see a hunting Short-eared Owl. While we waited four Magellan Snipe put on a floor show for us. First one called from cover and then emerged, almost feeding up to our feet. Then three more appeared and proceeded to feed and then chase each other. The ‘second act’ was provided by a hunting Owl – but it was some way off. Saturday 19 January Sea Lion: weather, 1013 mb, 2/8 cu, 9°C, S 14 mph, Sun. At 09.30 we were driven to Beaver Pond at the extreme west of the Island. Here there was a real sense of remoteness. The upper tideline was littered with pebbles, ancient kelp, wood and whale bones. We were soon watching Cobb’s Wren in their favourite littoral habitat. Geese, Magellanic Penguins, Shags and gulls were all very active in contrast to seven Southern Elephant Seals who were, as usual at this time of year, fast asleep. Off shore Black-browed Albatrosses swept over the waves, occasionally joined by Sooty Shearwaters. We tramped eastward through the Diddle-dee heath coming across ground tyrants, thrushes, finches and Tussack Birds one of which had caught a moth which it carried to its nesthole in the peat. Once again we were treated to close views of Magellan Snipe and Rufous-breasted Dotterel and a handful of Correndera Pipits crossed our path. They seemed scarce on Sea Lion. We had much better views of the pair of Southern Caracara as they perched nearby or overflew the group. After lunch we all went our separate ways, some clutching hand lenses and flora, some cameras and some binoculars and telescopes. It was the perfect day to find solitude in some ‘secret hideaway’ on the Falkland Islands southern gem, smoothly polished by summer warmth. A great time was had by all! The day closed with a glorious sunset but the Short-eared Owls watched it from cover – well, we didn’t see them! 6 The Travelling Naturalist Falklands – January 2008 Trip Report Sunday 20 January Sea Lion: weather a.m. 1005 mb, 1/8 cu,ci, 12°C, NW 10mph, Sun, p.m NW 35 mph! The weather was beautiful. The morning was broken up by there being two flights to Stanley, at 11.05 and at 13.00. The group split up according to their interests and their flight time. Some new discoveries were made; the total island King Penguin count rose to five as we found a subadult bird. We also reacquainted ourselves with a number of bird species including Cobb’s and Grass Wren, Rufous-bellied Dotterel and considerable numbers of Black- throated Finch. The bird of the morning was a Short-eared Owl which was flushed from the heathland. Once at Stanley we were expecting to board a boat and head for Kidney Island. Alas the wind increased to 35 mph which made the trip impossible but instead Jo was able to drive us out to Gypsy Cove. Here we watched familiar birds and visited the old Second World War gun battery. We were also able to appreciate the fine lines of HMS Nottingham (D91) as she lay at anchor in Port William. A short walk took us to a vantage point looking through the entrance of the harbour to Stanley. We were then glad to get out of the wind and settle into Malvina House. Footnote: By late evening the wind had increased to 50 knots. Monday 21 January Stanley: weather 1005mb, 2/8 cu, ci, 11°C +, W 20mph, Sun. We were met by Sharon, Nobby and Miranda who drove us to Volunteer Point. The first fifty-five minutes were on graded roads but the next seventy-five were cross country. Fortunately the ground was drier than usual so we made excellent progress due to very skilful driving. At Volunteer Point we met Paddy the Warden. The weather was perfect for photography so the nine hundred King Penguins were soon posing. We were able to watch adults, very mature chicks and those that were only a day or two old. Many adults were still sitting on eggs. We were also able to watch the antics of both Magellanic and Gentoo Penguins. The Penguin march to the sea and back was a great feature of the day. The beach also held Oystercatchers, Two-banded Plover, Crested Duck, Falkland Flightless Steamer Duck, Dolphin, Kelp and Brown-hooded Gulls. Off shore there were a few Blackbrowed Albatrosses and Giant Petrels. Then a steady passage of Sooty Shearwaters developed, two hundred and eighty birds flying west in a little over half an hour. One the drive back to Stanley we encountered Rufous-chested Dotterel and Magellan Snipe. Once on the main road to the capital we parked by a stone run to admire the rather strange Snake Flower. We had been extremely lucky to have had yet another sunny day. Tuesday 22 January Stanley: weather 1010mb, 1/8 cu, 14°C, calm, Sun. The weather was with us yet again! By 07.00 we were on board the ‘John Byron’ a sturdy craft which was to take us eight miles out to sea. Fortunately the swell was steady and predictable. As we left Stanley Harbour we were escorted by a pod of Peale’s Dolphins. Inshore we came across Imperial Shags, Kelp Gulls and a group of Brown-hooded Gulls. Once out to sea Sooty Shearwaters and Blackbrowed Albatross made an appearance, soon joined by Great Shearwaters and White-chinned Petrels. A lone Diving Petrel sped by the boat. After a while we turned towards land, to Kidney Island where we came across a raft of some six hundred & fifty Sooty Shearwaters in the midst of which were three Great Shearwaters. We were able to gain close views of both species. The island waters held groups of porpoising Magellanic and Rockhopper Penguins with a few South American Sea Lions. On shore we saw our last Tussockbird of 7 The Travelling Naturalist Falklands – January 2008 Trip Report the trip and a mass of South American Terns with Rock and Imperial Shag. As we made our way into Stanley Harbour we were again escorted by Peale’s Dolphins. Once docked at 10.10 we hurried off to Malvina House Hotel to change our clothes and clear our rooms. The rest of the morning was ours to enjoy – sun and all. By 14.00 we were on our way to Mount Pleasant Airport to make our way home. Wednesday 23 January We made an early arrival at Brize Norton and said our farewells. SPECIES CHECKLIST BIRDS ASCENSION ISLAND FRIGATEBIRDS Ascension Island Frigatebird STARLINGS Common Myna Common Waxbill Pelecaniformes Fregatidae Fregata aquila Passeriformes Sturnidae Acridotheres tristis Estrilada astrid Distant views of three Three flying around the base. Two FALKLAND ISLANDS PENGUINS King Penguin Sphenisciformes Spheniscidae Aptenodytes patagonicus Gentoo Penguin Pygoscelis papua Erect-crested Penguin Eudyptes sclateri Rockhopper Penguin Eudyptes chrysocome Macaroni Penguin Eudyptes chrysolophus Magellanic Penguin Spheniscus magellanicus GREBES White-tufted Grebe Two adults on Pebble, two Sea Lion. At least 900 at Volunteer Point. Colonies on Pebble, Sea Lion and Volunteer Point. A lone bird on Pebble, a vagrant from New Zealand waters in its eleventh year on Pebble. Colonies on Pebble, West Point and Sea Lion. One at the western colony and two in the eastern colony on Pebble. Widespread, Darwin, San Carlos Water, Pebble, Carcass and Sea Lion. Podicipediformes Podicipedidae Rollandia Rolland Eight on Pebble including one immature bird and an adult on two eggs. One Volunteer Point. Silvery Grebe Podiceps occipitalis One Darwin, four Pebble, one Carcass and 17 on Sea Lion. ALBATROSSES Procellariiformes Diomedeidae Black-browed Albatross Thalassarche melanophris Widespread along the coast. The colony at West Point flourishing. SHEARWATERS & PETRELS Procellariiformes Procellariidae Southern Giant Petrel Macronectes giganteus Noted throughout. Colonies on Pebble ( 58 adults, 48 chicks) and Sea Lion (76 adults and three chicks in a partial count) White-chinned Petrel Procellaria aequinoctialis Four off Stanley. Sooty Shearwater Puffinus griseus Common offshore. Peaks 280 at Volunteer Point and 650 in a raft off Kidney Island. Great Shearwater Puffinus gravis Ten off Stanley DIVING-PETRELS Procellariiformes Pelecanoididae 8 The Travelling Naturalist Common Diving-petrel CORMORANTS Rock Shag King (Blue-eyed) Cormorant HERONS Black-crowned Night-heron WILDFOWL Black-necked Swan Upland (Magellanic) Goose Kelp Goose Ruddy-headed Goose Flying Steamer Duck Falkland Steamerduck Chiloe Wigeon Speckled Teal Crested Duck Yellow-billed Pintail Silver Teal NEW WORLD VULTURES Turkey Vulture HAWKS, EAGLES & KITES Variable (Red-backed) Hawk FALCONS & CARACARAS Striated Caracara Southern Caracara Peregrine OYSTERCATCHERS Magellanic Oystercatcher Blackish Oystercatcher LAPWINGS & PLOVERS Two-banded Plover Falklands – January 2008 Trip Report Pelecanoides urinatrix Two on the boat trip to West Point Island; one off Kidney Island. Pelecaniformes Phalacrocoracidae Phalacrocorax magellanicus Scattered records throughout, smaller colonies than atriceps on Pebble, Carcass and Sea Lion. Phalacrocorax atriceps Noted throughout with large Colonies on Pebble, Carcass, West Point and Sea Lion islands. Ciconiiformes Ardeidae Nycticorax nycticorax Very widespread in sheltered coastal locations throughout. Anseriformes Anatidae Cygnus melanocorypha Five on Bett's Pond, Pebble Chloephaga picta Very widespread and numerous. Chloephaga hybrida Widely distributed on the shore. Chloephaga rubidiceps A widespread grazer – better than a lawn-mower. Tachyeres patachonicus One off West Point Island Tachyeres brachypterus Very widespread. Anas sibilatrix Six Pebble and nine Sea Lion. Anas flavirostris Widespread. Anas specularioides Widespread often in large flocks. Anas georgica Three, Pebble Island. Anas versicolor Two Pebble Island; a pair with three chicks Sea Lion. Falconiformes Cathartidae Cathartes aura Noted throughout. Falconiformes Accipitridae Buteo polyosoma Fourteen records Darwin, Pebble and Stanley. Falconiformes Falconidae Phalcoboenus australis Common on Pebble, Carcass, West Point and Sea Lion. Caracara plancus Two en route to Darwin on 11th and two Pebble. Falco peregrinus Two East Pebble and an immature bird West Pebble. Charadriiformes Haematopodidae Haematopus leucopodus Widespread, usually on sandy beaches. Haematopus ater Widespread often seen on rocky shores. Charadriiformes Charadriidae Charadrius falklandicus Rufous-chested Dotterel Charadrius modestus SANDPIPERS Charadriiformes South American (Magellan)Snipe Gallinago paraguaiae Common, especially on open wellvegetated inland areas and on beaches Scattered groups in open areas. Scolopacidae Surprisingly, usually on dry open areas. A small flock Darwin and numerous Pebble (120) and Sea Lion (105). White-rumped Sandpiper Calidris fuscicollis SHEATHBILLS Snowy Sheathbill Charadriiformes Chionididae Chionis alba SKUAS Subantarctic Skua Charadriiformes Stercorariidae Catharacta antarctica Common especially near breeding seabirds. Peak (34) Pebble. Charadriiformes Laridae GULLS 9 Eight on Pebble island, and one on Carcass. The Travelling Naturalist Falklands – January 2008 Trip Report Dolphin Gull Larus scoresbii Widespread especially near sea bird colonies. Very common. Thriving colony Carcass (700) Two West Point, ten Volunteer Point and twelve Stanley. Kelp Gull Larus dominicanus Brown-hooded Gull Larus maculipennis TERNS South American Tern Charadriiformes Sternidae Sterna hirundinacea PIGEONS & DOVES Columbiformes Columbidae Rock (Feral) Pigeon Columba livia OWLS Strigiformes Strigidae Short-eared Owl Asio flammeus OVENBIRDS Passeriformes Furnariidae Blackish Cinclodes (Tussock Bird)Cinclodes antarcticus TYRANT FLYCATCHERS Dark-faced Ground-tyrant WAGTAILS & PIPITS Correndera Pipit WRENS Cobb's Wren Passeriformes Tyrannidae Muscisaxicola macloviana Passeriformes Motacillidae Anthus correndera Passeriformes Troglodytidae Troglodytes cobbi Sedge Wren Cistothorus platensis THRUSHES Austral Thrush OLD WORLD SPARROWS House Sparrow FINCHES Black-chinned Siskin TRUE BUNTINGS Black-throated Finch TROUPIALS & ALLIES Long-tailed Meadowlark Passeriformes Turdidae Turdus falcklandii Passeriformes Passeridae Passer domesticus Passeriformes Fringillidae Carduelis barbata Passeriformes Emberizidae Melanodera melanodera Passeriformes Icteridae Sturnella loyca Widespread. West Point (100) Sea Lion ( 50) A few Darwin. Two records on Sea Lion. Common on Carcass (peak 100) West Point and Sea Lion Island; One from the boat off Kidney Island - all places where there are no cats or rats. Widespread in small numbers. Widespread but nowhere common. Common on Carcass and Sea Lion islands where there are no cats or rats. Noted on Pebble, Carcass and Sea Lion islands. Widespread. Several Darwin and Stanley. Common. Widespread, common. Common. MAMMALS EARED SEALS South American Fur Seal South American Sea-lion EARLESS SEALS Southern Elephant Seal Carnivora Otariidae Arctocephalus australis Otaria byronia Carnivora Phocidae Mirounga leonina MARINE DOLPHINS Peale's Dolphin Cete Delphinidae Lagenorhynchus australis Reindeer Hare Rangifer tarandus Lepus europaeus Eleven-spot Ladybird Ochre-shouldered Moth Brocade Moth One Pebble One Sea Lion One Pebble. Three, Carcass Island. Widespread. Very local, Carcass (84), Sea Lion (40 or so). Two Darwin, eight NW Point of Carcass and two Point Pattison, Carcass. Two Stanle Twenty Weddell Island. Ten Darwin INSECTS FALKLAND ISLANDS PLANTS 10 The Travelling Naturalist Falklands – January 2008 Trip Report Darwin, Goose Green and San Carlos White Grass Cortaderia pilosa Diddledee Empetrum rubrum Gorse Ulex europaeus Orchid Chloraea gaudichaudii Tall Fern Blechnum magellanicum Native Strawberry Rubus geoides Pigvine Gunnera magellanica Daisy Bellis perennis White Clover Triflolium repens Prickly Burr Acaena magellanica Wild Celery Apium graveolens Christmas Bush Baccharis magellanica Monterey Cyrpess Cupressus macrocarpa Yarrow Achillea millefolium Pebble Island West Diddledee Empetrum rubrum Tall Fern Blechnum magellanicum Pigvine Gunnera magellanica Prickly Burr Acaena magellanica Christmas Bush Baccharis magellanica Small Fern Blechnum Scurvy grass Oxalis enneaphylla Chickweed Cerastium sp. Fachine Chilotrichum diffusum Balsam Bog Bolax gummifera Woolly Ragwort Senecio littoralis Creeping Berry Lobelia Pratia repens Sea Cabbage Senecio candicans Sticky groundsel Senecio viscosus Coastal Nassauvia Nassauvia gaudichaudi Sheeps Sorrel Rumex acetosella East Diddledee Empetrum rubrum Creeping Berry Lobelia Pratia repens Sea Cabbage Senecio candicans Gorse Ulex europaeus Daisy Bellis perennis White Clover Triflolium repens Monterey Cypress Cupressus macrocarpa Lilaeopsis macloviana Falkland Lavender Perezia recurvata Thrift Armeria macloviana Boxwood Hebe elliptica Carcass Island North – around the airstrip Yorkshire Fog Holcus lanatus Meadow Grass, Pigvine, Sheep’s Sorrel. Along Coast Prickly Burr, Small Fern, Sea Cabbage Mousear Chickweed Stellaria media Arrow-leafed Marigold Caltha sagittata Small Nettle Urtica urens Yarrow Acaena lucida Wild Celery Apium australe Dock Rumex sp. Clubmoss Azoralla lycopodioides West Point Island Red Dead Nettle Lamium purpureum 11 The Travelling Naturalist Falklands – January 2008 Trip Report Self-heal Prunella vulgaris Gorse Nassauvia Tussock Grass Parodiochloa flabellate Red Campion Silene dioica Pineapple Weed Matricaria discioides Native Boxwood seen along coast, from the boat, growing wild. Sea Lion Island Pigvine, Diddledee, Small Fern, Sheep’s Sorrel, Yorkshire Fog, Gorse, Nassauvia, Tussock Grass, Sea cabbage, Christmas Bush, Mousear Chickweed, Clubmoss, Arrow-leafed Marigold, Wild Celery, Sticy Groundsel, Tall Fern. Marsh Daisy Aster vahlii Liverwort Marchantia sp. Grey-lobed Flat Lichen Tall Rush Scirpus californicus Native Woodrush Luzula alopecurus Cudweed Gamochaeta sp. Groundsel Senecio vulgaris Basket Kelp Macrocystis pyrifera Marram Grass sp. Cinnamon Grass Hierochloe redolens Antarctic Bedstraw Galium antarcticum Shore Meadowgrass Poa robusta No daisy or clover. Gypsy Cove Tall & Small Fern, Gorse, Cinnamon Grass, Tussock Grass, Christmas Bush, Diddledee, Sheep’s Sorrel, Pigvine, Scurvy Grass and Balsam Bog. Wiry Azorella Azorella filamentosa Mountain Berry Gaultheria pumila Vanilla Daisy Leucheria suaveolens Heath Bedstraw Galium saxatile Almond Flower Luzuringa marginata Volunteer Beach Pratia, Pigvine, Stitchwort, Liverwort, Sheep’s Sorrel. Buttonweed Plant Leptinella scariosa Near Tumbledown Snake Plant Nassauvia serpens Tea Berry Myrteola nummularia Tufted Azorella Azorella monantha Mountain Berry, Almond Flower. Neil Arnold, 2008 © The Travelling Naturalist / Limosa Holidays © photo credits to Pam Phillipson, many thanks from The Travelling Naturalist 12 The Travelling Naturalist Falklands – January 2008 Trip Report 13 The Travelling Naturalist Falklands – January 2008 Trip Report 14
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