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The Role Of Sublimation Printing In Textile
Industry Is It Favourable For The Local Market
Or Not?
By
SAMRAH OWAIS
Indus Valley School of Art and Architecture
2013
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THE ROLE OF SUBLIMATION PRINTING IN TEXTILE
INDUSTRY IS IT FAVOURABLE FOR THE LOCAL MARKET OR
NOT?
BY
SAMRAH OWAIS
This thesis is submitted in the partial fulfilment of the
requirements of the degree of BACHELOR OF TEXTILE DESIGN
from Indus valley school of art and architecture.
Internal advisor: Humera Tareen
Arshad Farooqi
Department of COMMUNICATION DESIGN
Indus Valley School of Art and Architecture
Karachi, Pakistan
2013
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WHAT IS THE ROLE OF SUBLIMATION PRINTING IN THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY?
AND IS IT FAVOURABLE FOR THE LOCAL MARKET OR NOT?
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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
This dissertation would not have been completed without the support of the people who
shared their knowledge and experience and took out time to help me .I would like to
thank my family first especially my mother who was there with me every time. For
going around the city with me. For helping me through out my research and going
around factories. For moral and physical support. I would not have been able to
complete my dissertation without my friend Mr Abar-ul-haq who helped me through
arranging all the meetings and co-ordinating with many people who helped me
complete my research.
I am very grateful to Mr Mahmood Anwar of “Mahmood Chemcials” who took out his
precious time for the interview and guided me in understanding of the process and all
the things involved. He explained me throughout and helped me a lot. also I would like
to mention Mr Haris Mehmood director of “Hexgon Chemicals” who also helped me in
my research in understanding the chemicals and the pigments that are used in the
process.
Last but not the least I would like to thank Miss Humera Tareen our dissertation advisor
and also to Miss Gemma Sharpe without whom this dissertation would have not reached
to its final. They both guided and supported me through my difficult times and gave me
hope and showed me a way forward.
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TABLE OF CONTENTS:
List of illustrations
Abstract
1 .Introduction
2 .Literature review
3. Research methodology
4. Findings and discussions
5. Conclusion
Appendix A

Interviews
Appendix B

Bibliography
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List of illustrations
page number
Figure 1: A view of the factory ”Zaib Apparel”
22
Figure 2: sample picture
23
Figure 3: sample picture
24
Figure 4: sample picture
24
Figure 5: sample picture
25
Figure 6: a view of the machine.
26
Figure 7: machine showing the printing process.
26
Figure 8: another machine for printing.
27
Figure 9: screens area.
27
Figure 10: machine in the screens area.
28
Figure 11: Victoria market entrance
31
Figure 12: a view of the transfer machine
31
Figure 13: Sample picture.
32
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ABSTRACT
Pakistan has emerged as one of the leading textile country in the world. Having a huge textile
market in Karachi. Textile industry has different sectors having a huge setup. Printing being the
most commonly used and known method, also one of the oldest. Being the oldest form it has
many types of techniques and sublimation being one of them. It is commonly used and also the
oldest technique. But due to the limitations of fabric it has lost its value in the past few years.
The rising demand of printed shirts and t-shirts and their varieties in colours and fabrics have
made textile sector richer.
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INTRODUCTION
Pakistan is known as one of the leading textile countries in the world. Our country has emerged
over the textile world map during the past thirty years. We have a huge local textile market in
Karachi. In textile we have different sectors. Like we have dyeing, we have printing and in
printing we have block printing, screen printing, foam printing, foil printing and sublimation
printing. sublimation printing is also known as heat transfer printing. basically in this printing
technique the design gets transferred from paper to cloth through a heat process.
1
“Sublimation
printing is the application of sublimation inks onto a surface using a heat press to provide the
required combination of heat, time and pressure. This combination causes the inks to be
converted from a solid to a gaseous state enabling them to penetrate the sublimatable surface so
that a permanent, full colour image is formed. The colour penetrates the surface of the item so
that the result is colourful, long lasting and resistant to scratching unlike some other printing
methods that merely print onto the surface of the fabric”. Sublimation printing is also known as
transfer printing.2 “Sublimation is a transfer process in which the image becomes a part of the
actual item. Sublimation needs special ink, paper and specific substrates with polyester
coating to work”.
Sublimation is a kind of printing that is done through the heating process. It has certain
limitations. It is not done on every fabric. It is just done on polyester. Polyester fabric in our
country is used and mostly this kind of printing is done on t-shirts. The polyester fabric and the
paper which has the design on it is put together and they are joined and then placed on the
heating machine and from that the design gets transferred on the polyester fabric. This type of
1
http://www.imagegroupuk.com/print-solutions/what-is-dye-sublimation-printing.html by The Image Group (no
date posted)
2
http://www.coastalbusiness.com/the-basics-of-sublimation.aspx by Coastal Business Supplies (no date posted)
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printing is a very old technique used world wide and also in our country. This technique is used
in Karachi but mostly it is used it Faisalabad. As it is used just on the polyester and keeping in
the mind the climatic conditions of the city and also the use. Mostly it is done on the sports
goods which are being produced in Faisalabad. Sublimation printing is done in Karachi but not
on a large scale. only few factories in Karachi are doing it. Sublimation printing is always done
on polyester, polymer, or polymer coated items. It has a proper process and it is done on a high
temperature.3 “At high temperatures, the solid dye converts into a gas without ever becoming a
liquid. The same high temperature opens the pores of the polymer and allows the gas to enter.
When the temperature drops, the pores close and the gas reverts to a solid state. It has now
become a part of the polymer. For this reason true dye sublimation cannot be done on natural
materials such as 100% cotton. Natural fibres and non-coated materials have no "pores" to
open.”
In Karachi sublimation printing is done but not on a large scale. one of the reason is that of its
cost .If a normal printing shirt would cost us lets say 400 rupees. The sublimated printed shirt
have cost us 40% more than normal printing. In Karachi there was an experiment done on lawn.
It wasn’t that successful. There are special kind of dyes that are used for the lawn. Those dyes
are known as “Reactive dyes”.
In sublimation printing technique water is not used. It is a heating process through which the
design gets transferred on the fabric.4” To obtain consistently accurate colours from any dye
sublimation ink, some form of colour correction must be used. There are many different
3
http://www.imagegroupuk.com/print-solutions/what-is-dye-sublimation-printing.html by The Image Group (no
date posted)
4
http://www.coastalbusiness.com/the-basics-of-sublimation.aspx by Coastal Business Supplies (no date posted)
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approaches taken by ink suppliers to obtain decent colours. However, for optimum results, we
use the internationally recognized ICC colour profiles method for Artainium inks and a Power
Driver for SubliJet inks” . 5”In Dye Sublimation the ink actually "dyes" the fabric. Dye
sublimation is a 4 colour (CMYK) process print process so it can handle any number of colours
of types of images. The print process starts always with white fabric and the colours are mixed as
they print on the fabric. The background colour will be dyed in the printing process”.
Our local market has a lot of trained and technical staff who does this kind of printing and keep
on experimenting it on other fabric. My main focus was on the local market and basically what
are the problems that occur while doing it and why it is not that used in our market. As if we can
save water then why not use this printing technique. But as to the limit of the fabric it couldn’t be
used too much and also of the cost factor keeping in mind the country’s condition of electricity
and water.
5
http://www.mvpvisuals.com/dye_sub_vs_screen_print.htm by MYP Visuals (Page last updated 06/14/2013
01:35:11)
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LITERATURE REVIEW:
While pondering more on the topic mostly I visited different websites and books. In order to get
familiar with the process and the techniques I also had to read a few things which were not that
directly related to the topic but to understand the full procedure. I read a book that was
completely on dyes and dyeing techniques on fabric and also the equations and the graph that
were given in the book. There are quite a few websites on sublimation printing but more on how
to do sublimation printing. I also visited factories and interviewed people . I also phone
interviewed a person in Faisalabad who told me the whole process and how it is done there in
Faisalabad and what are the problems that occur there. My research is more based on the
interviews that I did for this topic. Also visiting the factories and getting to know the procedure
and also looking at the machines and the samples that were there and also I photographed a few
samples and got the chance to take pictures inside the factory.
DYES AND DYE INTERMEDIATES by NIIR BOARD OF CONSULTANT ENGINEERS:
This is complete book on dyes and how the dyes react on a certain fabric. It has a whole separate
chapter on how the dyes react on the polyester fabric and how they are heated on a certain
temperature. This book is written and published in India. India is far ahead in textile as compared
to Pakistan. It’s a complete guide on dyes and also the reactive dyes. There are different chapter
on intermediate dyes and reactive dyes and so many other. Then it is divided and then sub
divided and explained very nicely about the process and the technique. There are also graph and
other equations are given to understand more clearly about the dyeing process. The book has 15
chapters and it has explained each and every detail and also every step of the dyeing process.
The chapter “dyeing of polyester” explains that how does polyester reacts while being dyed. In
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sublimation printing there are certain types of dyes that are used also to get the know how of the
dyes that are used on polyester. So this chapter clearly explains the temperature and how it is
maintained. In this chapter it further explains 6”polyester is a polymer resulting from the ester
exchange reaction of dimethyl terephthalaute and a giycol usually ethylaene glycol. Typical
polyester fibres includes Dacron, Fartrel, Trevira and terylene”. This book explain in detail about
the dyes and the chemicals that are being used in the dyeing procedure .what I think that the
book is very much detail and in some areas too much details. Even I got lost at some point as
there was too much about one little thing. But as a whole the book is very much informative and
practical and also gives a deep thought and detail information about dyes and every kind of dyes
that are being used in the market.
Secondly there is a website www.imagegroupuk.com/print solutions. This website gives a proper
definition of what is sublimation dyeing and how it is done. And also what kind of temperature is
required while doing the sublimation printing. On the other hand it has other categories on
printing as well like printing on carpet, canvas, floor , curtains etc. so it gives a whole new
details of how many things we can get printed on also it gives a clear idea of what sublimation
printing is in what type of fabric it is used. Also gives the recent case study at the end of the
page. What I think is really informative. I was interested in looking at the categories which were
associated with the sublimation printing. Also that it is done on the curtains and on carpets as
well. And then at the bottom of the page it gives a small box that shows on the recent
development on the current topic and how it be taken further.
6
Dyes and dye by NIIR board of consultants and engineers. The complete technology book on Dyes And Dye
Intermediate New Delhi, India.
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There is an other website www.simsotex.com this website is basically on the apperal
manufacturing and sublimation printing. it also gives a textual and also a pictorial view of the
sublimation process and it gives a clear background on it. This website also has shown some of
its samples and also the digital side. I think its good to have pictures with some text so it gives
you a clear idea and also have a look on the machines. And also the digital samples that are
shown on their webpage.
There is an other book on sublimation printing that is “sublimation 101”. It’s a complete guide
on sublimation printing and its techniques. In this book there is a detailed explanation of
sublimation printing and how it is done. what kind of temperature is required for the printing
process and also why it is required. Because that kind of printing where water is not used and
you need high intensity of heat to transfer the design to the required material and also taking care
of all the precautions. Also in the book the techniques are mentioned and how it can work in
different sorts of market depending on the type of demand that we have. In this book there are
detailed chapters on how sublimation is done on apparel also on mugs and other things. And how
the treatment of colours take place also what sort of colours that are used specially for this kind
of printing. and also how this printing is different from other printing techniques. It simply
explains that how it is different. 7”The modern dye sublimation process is quite simple. You
create an image on your computer, print it onto special transfer paper using sublimation inks, and
then apply the paper with the image to the item to be decorated. Using a heat press, the transfer
paper is pressed onto the surface at 400 degrees Fahrenheit, which then causes the sublimation
inks to “transfer” from the paper to any polymer fibres within the substrate. After about a minute,
7
Sublimation 101. The complete guide to successful dye sublimation printing. by Saw Grass Technologies.
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the heat is removed and the transfer paper is peeled off, leaving behind a permanent, full colour
image on the substrate”.
It also explains the understanding of colour and light. The colour management and correction.
And how the colour is different from an other normal printing colour. And also working with
graphic images and files. In the book it has been explained briefly the colour process. 8”With dye
sublimation there is another element of the colour control process that has to be addressed. When
a dye sublimation transfer sheet is pressed onto a substrate, the ink turns into a gas to bond to the
polymers of the substrate. During this “gassing” certain colours will ‘shift’ so the finished
product will not look like the original image on the screen or the image that printed out on the
transfer paper. Colour correction is the art of adjusting this colour transformation so that you can
produce the best quality results on your substrate” the book gives a brief history on sublimation
from analogue to digital. Further it explains that how sublimation printing became popular. It
was founded by” Noël de Plasse” who worked for the French company” Lainière de Roubaix”.
To understand dye sublimation and to obtain consistently satisfactory results from the process, it
is important to understand the technology. In the simplest terms, dye sublimation is a method of
transferring a printed image from paper onto a variety of materials, or substrates. There are many
types of substrates that can be used, and they include textiles (T-shirts being the most common),
ceramics (mugs), glass, plastics (key chains, identification tags, and decorative auto license
plates), rubberized polyester (mouse pads, coasters), and coated metal, to name a few.9”
sublimation inks are not liquid; they are solid particles. They are suspended in a liquid that
allows them to flow through an inkjet printer, for example. The dye particles are designed to
bond only with polymers. Therefore, the higher the polyester content in the material, the more
8
9
Sublimation 101 The complete guide to successful dye sublimation printing. by Saw Grass Technologies.
Sublimation 101 The complete guide to successful dye sublimation printing. by Saw Grass Technologies.
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dye will bond to it, and the brighter the final image will be. This explains why it’s not possible to
sublimate 100% cotton fabrics. Similarly, other natural materials used in dye-sublimation, such
as ceramic, glass and metal, are first coated with polymers before they can be used in
sublimation”.
An other article talks about the sublimation printing and its techniques. It is from the website
http://www.eclipsetextiles.com.au/printing-techniques-sublimation-printing. in this article they have
given a complete video to understand the process of sublimation printing. furthermore it explains
the procedure and temperature on which the paper is kept so that the print is transferred. In this
article they have also explained the chemistry of the polyester fabric. its advantages and its
disadvantages. Also the types of polyester fabrics that are available and also the ones that are
used for the sublimation purpose. This article explains briefly the types of fabric on which the
sublimation printing is being done. As sublimation printing is limited to the polyester fabric only
and it is done on pure polyester. As polyester is made for this high temperature and if this
printing is done on nylon or any other fabric the design will not get transferred or it will melt. So
polyester has a special capacity to absorbed the heat that is important in this process.
Another book that I have referred is “Manual Of Textile Printing” by “ Joyce Storey” . In this
book there is chapter on Transfer printing which explains the star transfer printing process, the
modern transfer techniques including other printing techniques. It furthers explains that transfer
printing is one of the latest and the most interesting developments in the fields of textile industry.
It gives a full over view of transfer printing that from where its started and how did it started, on
what temperature the transfer printing is done. Also the fabric and its limitations, the paper
carrier machine and how it works. Furthermore it explains the modern transfer techniques. That
how the sublimation technique have evolved. And firstly when it was started it was not
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commercially used. But as it developed more and people began to like the result of it it became
more commercial and that is how the sublimation printing started on the sports t-shirts and other
sports goods. Then slowly the products started to increase. People started printing on mugs and
other ceramics items. And also how the French firms begins to developed it more. Further it
explains on the designs developments and the advantages. It is firstly the design that is on the
paper which has be transferred on the fabric. One does not have to rely on the ability of the cloth
surface to accept certain effects. With all other methods of printing the cloth structure is of
primary importance.
It also explains the industrial advantages.10 “the advantages of transfer printing in industry are
numerous, notably in the knitting industry, and are the best sub-divided into those relating
directly to actual fabric production. Knitted fabrics, particularly circular ones, nearly always
present the printer with a problem, in that the most interesting ones are often rather stretchy and
unstable”.
Fabric should have a strong bonding so that the printing is done easily. It is an extremely clean
process. Furthermore it explains the printing of design on the paper and its disadvantages.
Overall this book gives a full understanding of the heat transfer printing and its technique.
10
Joyce Story, manual of textile printing revised edition. Pp 156-157
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RESEARCH METHODOLOGY
In my dissertation I am discussing about ‘sublimation printing’ and its effects on the local market
and how it is useful now. And also looking at the expect that how much of sublimation printing
technique is being used in the local market.
I have planned to do surveys of different factories where sublimation printing is being done and
what are the machines that are being used and also about their sizes and on what material
sublimation printing is being done. I have also interviewed different people who are in this field
and have done sublimation printing. also the people who are currently doing it. While
interviewing different people they told a lot about the current situation in our local market and
what is production rate in the market. They also told me about that fabric that the fabric has to be
pure polyester so that sublimation printing can take place.
Sublimation printing is not cheap so it cost more than the normal printing like 30 to 40%.
During the visits I came across a lot of samples of sublimation printing. the colours that were
used were all sort of colours. There were more bright and less pastels that were used. It totally
depends on the market demand and also the production rate. Nowadays in our local market
people are doing sublimation printing but very few as the cost factor is very high. In sublimation
printing there is no water used and its done through heat process. It is also known as heat transfer
printing. it is basically a heat process that the print is on the paper and it gets transferred on the
cloth through a heat process which is very fast. Mostly machines were of A3 size and few were
bigger than A3 size used in this process. Mostly factories that I have visited had A3 size printing
machines but there was one in Korangi area which was bigger than the A3 size. As the country’s
situation is not stable and the decline on the production rate is getting higher day by day people
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prefer cheap but good printing. sublimation printing gives good results in the end but it cost more
than a normal t-shirt that we get from market. I also went to Zanaib market for a survey on
their 3rd floor. They do printing on the shirts but that are stickers which are transferred on the tshirts. The process was not undertaken on a machine but it was just a heat transfer process
without the pigments so that’s why it is cheap and effective.. The difference that I found between
sublimation printed t-shirts and in the normal printed t-shirts is that the sublimation printed tshirts after a wash their print doesn’t come off and It remains as new, but the other t-shirts that
we get from the Zanaib market their stickers come off or the print starts to fade out after a wash.
So sublimation printing is a bit costly but effective. I have also referred some books. One of the
most helpful book was ‘Sublimation printing 101’. The book was very informative about the
sublimation techniques and its requirements. I purchased it online as it was not available in
Pakistan. In this book there is detailed research about sublimation printing , how it is done, on
what fabric it is being used, also the types of print pigments that are used to print. The machines
and the temperature that is required to do sublimation printing. I have also referred a lot of
articles online about sublimation. There is not a lot but enough information on the web on
sublimation. There are different companies who have given their company profile and explained
how they are going about the sublimation process. There are also other websites that have given
detailed research about the sublimation that exactly what sublimation is? what are the problems
that are being faced? and how do we handle them?. My research interviews helped a lot as my
target was the local market so knowing about the local person’s point of view was important.
Sublimation printing technique is mostly used in Faisalabad as it is done on the polyester fabric
so it is being done on the sports t-shirts and other sports items. So I phoned interviewed a person
who was the supplier of the pigments that are being used in the sublimation printing. and he is in
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this business for quite a long time. He told me about the fabric the pigments and other useful
stuff that is used in the sublimation printing. so I have interviewed two to three people on the
phone and rest face to face about their experience. I have also taken the permission to take
picture in a factory as other were a bit reluctant in taking the pictures. So I have covered articles
and books and also the surveys of the local factories that helped me in my dissertation.
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FINDINGS AND DISCUSSIONS
The research was as such that the literature material that was found was to actually look into
deep detail about the whole process. While starting my research or inquiring about the process I
had to visit factories which were really far away.
I started inquiring about this subject. For that mater I had to interview the concern people
through this and also visit markets and other areas where sublimation printing is being done.
While interviewing a lot of people there was a lot of information that was passed on to me but at
the same time very few people were doing sublimation printing in Karachi. Mostly sublimation
printing is done in Sialkot.
On interviewing and getting familiar to the process Mr Salman Yaseen who own a small factory
in Landhi explained and showed me the whole process. I went there to experience the whole
process myself. It was interesting though looking at the machines and how they work also
experiencing the factory and its environment. He explained me the entire procedure in detail. Mr
Salman Yaseen owns “Zaib Apperal” a small factory in Landhi Karachi.
figure no 1: a small view of the factory
“Zaib apparel”. Showing some workers and their machines.
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Mr Salman explained me the process in detail. That how is works what is the situation
In the current market. While interviewing him he told me that because this process takes time
and it is a bit expensive as compared to other heat transferring techniques in printing so that is
why it is not that applicable in the local market. Also it is done on pure polyester and not on any
other fabric so that is also the limitation. And also the climate conditions in Karachi where we
cannot wear pure polyester all day long. As the productivity rate is low in the city as compared to
Sialkot. He showed me a couple of samples and with permission I took a couple of pictures.
figure no 2: a sample showing
sublimation printing.
This was one of the samples basically showing the colour divisions. I asked him that if there is
any colour limitation and the answer was no. he told me that we can use as many colours we
want. But again then it was raise the cost price of that certain piece.
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Figure no 3: this is an other option showing the
colouring divisions.
figure no 4: the other option showing an image and text
along with it.
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figure no 5: another option showing the
quality of printing.
As he was telling me the about the whole process I asked him about the situation in local Karachi
market. According to Mr Salman there are buyers but not a lot. mostly people who are doing it
they are either doing it on sports goods or other t shirts which they export in other countries. As
the market in Karachi has not a huge buyer rate of sublimation printing most of our goods are
sent to Faisalabad and Sialkot. As most of the sports goods are manufactured there and then send
forward. Karachi has a small amount of buyers who are still doing and buying the sublimation
printing goods par as to the rise in price and the market demand it is not that good. But as
compared to the other quality or the sticker t shirts the sublimation printed t shirts are far more
better.
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figure no 6: This is the view of
sublimation printing machine. It is basically heat transfer machine in which no water is used. The
print or the design is on the paper and through this machine is is transferred on the cloth. It has a
certain amount of temperature on which the machine is kept so that the print would get
transferred. Which was 200 degrees.
figure no 7: another machine showing
sublimation on the t shirt.
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figure no 8: another machine used for
printing purposes.
figure no 9: this was the screen area,
where all the screen used for different designs are kept.
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figure no 10: another machine on the
same area where the screens are kept for printing purposes.
He given quite a lot of information of the position of sublimation printing done in the local
market and also the status.
As there were not many people who are doing sublimation in Karachi there are other people who
are selling machinery to them and dealing with with all printing machinery and other purposes.
As most of the printing is done is Sialkot and Faisalabad people over here provide machinery to
them. For this matter i phoned interviewed a person living in Faisalabad who is dealing with al
kinds of printing machinery and dealing with this since 20 years. and is providing machinery in
Karachi and other parts of Pakistan where sublimation printing is being done.
His name is Sh.Mahmood Anwar he is the executive in “Mahmood chemicals”. Taking to him
about sublimation printing he told me quite a lot about the process and the machines and also the
technical things that were not clear in my mind. He told me from the starting that how the paper
is made the special paper on which the design is done and the machines inside out. He told me
that the colour printed on the paper is called “disperse colours”. And these colours are only
transferable on the fabrics which are made of polyester threads. He also told me that the designs
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are also made on the copper role if you don’t want the design of print and dyeing of fabric is
required then etching of complete roll is done. And we can dye the fabric with any colour. Also
he told me that there are special kind of dyes that are used for this purposes. Which are not easily
available over here in Pakistan and also if they are the colours are very limited. So for that matter
they had to import colours from “turkey” and other foreign countries. Which increases the cost of
the product. Also this procedure is only done on polyester and not on other fabric. He was really
helpful in sending this contact details and his card.
Then from another reference I phoned interviewed another person living in Faisalabad. His name
is “Sh Haris Mahmood” the director of “Hexagon Chemicals”. They are also the importers and
sellers of textile dyes and chemicals. He was very humble in answering all the quires about the
sublimation printing , its process? How its done? And what are the precautions?. He explained
me throughout the process of sublimation printing as the design transfer on paper and then on the
cloth. He also explained me that for the transfer process there should be certain temperature that
should be maintained while doing the sublimation process. Also he explained me about the
fabric, that in sublimation printing only pure polyester is used. And that is why because of the
limitation the production level in other cities is low as compared to Faisalabad.
Also in Karachi I interviewed a couple of people including Mr Salman as mentioned earlier as in
Karachi only few people are doing sublimation printing. for that matter I interviewed Syed Naiz
of “Naiz Garments”. He also explained me the same process as mentioned above. His factory is
in Site area in Karachi. he is one of the supplier in the market in Karachi. he explains that as due
to the city’s condition the production rate is very slow because of the unsettlement and
uncertainty the worker don’t show up regularly. Because of that the production rate ahs effected
on a higher scale. further he explains me that the weather condition of any country is very
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important . because of the weather we have in Karachi people over here don’t usually wear
polyester fabric. And also of the price factor that is there only a few people buy sublimation
printed t-shirts. But when there is an up coming match of Pakistan the saleability of these t-shits
are pretty good. As mostly people wear it for their nation spirit and for the support.
Another interview which I conducted was of Hammad Bilal Mulla of “Mulla international”.
They have a small setup of printing and dyeing in Landhi area in Karachi. They also explained
me the whole process of sublimation printing, its technique and on what temperature it is
performed. He showed me machines on which the sublimation process is being done. Most of the
machines were of A3 size. As because of the t-shirts they don’t need a bigger size. I visited his
factory. It was not that huge but the set up was there.
Another interview that I conducted was of Bilal Kaim Khani of “Bilal Garments”. His setup is in
site area Karachi. I went there for a visit. Pictures were forbidden. I visited his whole factory and
the setup. Mr Bilal was humble enough to explained me the techniques that how the sublimation
printing is done. He was kind enough to show me the paper on which the design is being
transferred and from there it is transferred on the cloth through the sublimation process. The
paper was of red colour and it had a special sort of ink on it. He also showed me the pigments
that they use for the sublimation printing. mostly they have to import form outside as they are not
available in Pakistan. He also explained me about the temperature, that for sublimation printing
you need a high temperature for the design to get it transferred.
For my dissertation research I had to do a market survey. For that matter I visited different areas
in Karachi. Like Zanaib market, Tariq road, gulf, Clifton and other shopping areas. For the t
shirts the best place is Zanaib market. It’s a whole sale market where you can get different
Owais 29
varieties of t-shirts , jeans , upper and a lot more. For that matter I went to Zanaib market and I
visited a couple of shop where they had different printed t-shirts and other uppers. There is
building name “victoria” where the people who print different t-shirts and uppers are there. I
went there and interviewed a couple of people there. After interviewing them I got to know that
the printing that they are doing is different from the sublimation printing. as the colours and the
paper that they use is sticker paper and after some washes it comes off. While sublimation
printing is much more neater and gave u better result and the print or the design doesn’t comes
off from the t-shirt or the cloth.
figure no 11: a small entrance of the “Victoria
shopping centre”.
figure no 12: this was the machine
through which they were doing the printing. but the difference between sublimation and this
Owais 30
printing techniques is the pigment or the colours that are used. The pigments or the colours that
are used for the sublimation printing are different from the one using over here. As of the cost
problem and also of the fabric.
figure no 13: one of the sample paper on
which the design is made. Also in this process there is no limitation of colours.
As my research was on the local market and the value of sublimation printing in local market I
went for a survey of other markets in Karachi. such as ”Tariq Road” , “Gulf” , “Clifton” ,
“Saddar” and shops around these areas but over there sublimation printing was not happening.
Even they did not kept the sublimation printed items.
The process of sublimation printing is not very common in our local market. As it is expensive
and time consuming people prefer cheap clothing. As the sublimation printing cloths cost them
more. Going around the markets in Karachi I asked the people in “Victoria Shopping Mall” and
other shopping areas where i visited that what kind of printing they will prefer wearing?. Mostly
people at that point didn’t even knew about sublimation printing so after explaining them and
showing them the difference mostly people liked the result of sublimation printing as it is neat
and long lasting but because of the price factor they prefer other printing technique which will
cost them less than sublimation printing.
Owais 31
In my interview with Mr Salman of ‘Zaib Apparel” he explained me that most of the t-shirts that
they print through the sublimation process are exported. As because of the price factor and the
country’s situation people over here do not prefer sublimation printed shirt and fabric being the
most important factor. As it is done only on pure polyester. That is why in Pakistan mostly the
sublimation printing is done in Faisalabad. As the sport goods are prepared in Faisalabad and
then they are moved inside and outside the country. Also because of the weather condition that
we have in Pakistan it is very difficult to wear pure polyester.
Owais 32
CONCLUSION
With time there is a change in everything. In needs of the people, in their taste and the lifestyle
they choose. As things change people want something new everyday. Some thing are
experimental and trendy. Textile being the large sector in Pakistan and the production rate
increasing day by day there are new things coming in the market. Printing has various varieties
whether it be screen, block or sublimation. With time techniques changes because of the needs of
the people and also the rapid change in fashion, where everyday there is something new going
on. Among people those techniques are more popular which cost less and have more variety.
Screen print and block print having a lot of variety and other variations when it come to fabric.
As compared to sublimation printing it is very limited when it comes to fabric as it can only be
done in pure polyester. Also in the local market where sublimation printing is being done but not
on a very large scale. It is being done on a small scale. so sublimation printing as a whole is
being done but due to the limitation in fabric and also the price factor it is being done on a small
scale. the role of sublimation printing in the textile industry is important as the result is more
neater and brighter. It is more reliable and even after several washes the quality of the printing
does not change or fade. But due to the limitation on the fabric the production rate in Karachi is
not high. The production rate is better in Faisalabad as the mostly the sport goods are made there.
mostly people in Karachi who are doing Sublimation printing are selling their product outside the
country as because of many reasons as mentioned above. Due to climate conditions in Karachi,
electricity shortage and water shortage , cost of production we can say sublimation printing is not
suitable for the local market.
Owais 33
APPENDIX A
INTERVIEWS
Interviewer : Samrah Owais
Interviewee: Sh Mahmood Anwar
Chief executive of Mahmood Chmeicals
Interview was conducted on the phone
Interviewer: what is sublimation printing?
Interviewee: sublimation is that kind of printing that is done through the heat process. It is also
known as the transfer printing. Through a heat process the design is transferred on the fabric
though a paper on which the design is there.
Interviewer : what are the colour on that printed paper called?
Interviewee: the colours printed on the paper is called disperse colours.
Interviewer : explain me the process?
Interviewee: first spread the polyester fabric on the table. Secondly place the heat transfer paper
on the polyester fabric and then press the heat transfer paper with hot iron.
Interviewer: what are the limitations is this process?
Interviewee: the limitations are of the fabric. Pure polyester is the only fabric that should be used
in the sublimation printing. as the printing is done on polyester only.
Interviewer: how are the designs made?
Owais 34
Interviewee: these designs are made on the copper roll. If you don’t want the design to be printed
and the dyeing of the fabric is required first then etching of complete roll is done. You an dye the
fabric with any colour.
Interviewer: is sublimation printing more costly than normal printing techniques?
Interviewee: yes it is a more costly than the normal or other printing techniques as the pigment
that are used in the sublimation printing are imported from outside Pakistan like from Turkey
and other side of the Europe. So that’s why the cost factor increases. And because of that people
over here don’t buy expensive t-shirts they prefer buying cheap t-shirts. But if you compare the
quality the sublimation printed t-shirts have a better quality.
Interviewer: what is the production rate in Faisalabad?
Interviewee: the production rate in Faisalabad is higher than in Karachi or other cities of
Pakistan. As in Faisalabad most of the sports goods are made and over here sports t-shirts are
printed too so over here is production rate is higher than the other cities.
Mr Salman Yaseen
Director at Zaib Apparels
Owais 35
Interviewer: How is the sublimation printing process being undertaken?
Interviewee: sublimation printing is done through a heat process. The design is first on the paper
then is transferred on the fabric through a high temperature marinating machine.
Interviewer: why sublimation printing is limited?
Interviewee: it is limited because of the fabric. The fabric limitations. You can only use pure
polyester fabric when you are doing sublimation printing. as other wise using other fabrics you
won’t get the desired result. So in sublimation printing only polyester is used.
Interviewer: what is the production rate in Karachi?
Interviewee: the production rate in Karachi is not that high as if you compared it with Faisalabad.
As over here we don’t make sports goods. But in Faisalabad sports goods are made on a higher
level and also sports t-shirts and other goods so the production rate is much higher.
Interviewer: what is the wear ability factor of these sublimation printed t-shirts in Karachi?
Interviewee: the wear ability factor in Karachi is not that high. As the main factor being the
weather conditions. Over here the kind of weather we have we cant wear pure polyester. So most
of the t-shirts that we print are exported. It is also that we get a good price for it and we are not in
loss. But if we do it over here we will be in loss.
Interviewer: what are the problems being faced in sublimation printing?
Interviewee: The problems being faced can be the city condition. The electricity problems that
we have in our country and here in Karachi because of that a lot of our business suffer. Other
Owais 36
than that if we don’t use pure polyester our piece gets wasted. Otherwise there is just market sell
ability problems not any technical problems.
Interviewer: can we do sublimation printing on other fabrics? have you tried it on other fabrics?
Interviewee: no we cannot do sublimation printing on other fabrics. We have tried it on lawn but
it was not that successful.
Interviewer: is the cost factor vary too much as compared to other printing process?
Interviewee: yes there is a difference in the cost factor. As there is 30 to 40% difference in the
cost if you compared. As the pigments that we use in sublimation printing are mostly imported
from outside the country and because of that they cost us more and there is a rise in the price
factor.
Interviewer: is there any difference in the quality of the sublimation printed t-shirts and normal
printed t-shirts?
Interviewee: yes there is a difference in sublimation printed t-shirts. The sublimation printed tshirts are more neater and even after several washes the quality of the print remains the same and
the design or the colour doesn’t fade off or come off. Where as the printed t-shirts the one we get
from Zanaib Market after few washes their design and colour begins to fade.
Syed Naiz
Director at Naiz Garments
Owais 37
Interviewer: how can you explain sublimation printing that what it is?
Interviewee: sublimation printing is basically a process in which the design gets transferred on
the fabric through a heat process. The design is first set on the paper then the paper is set on the
fabric which has be to pure polyester then through a heat process the design is transferred on the
fabric.
Interviewer: is pure polyester necessary for the transfer of the design?
Interviewee: yes the fabric has to be pure polyester as if its not then you will not get the desired
results.
Interviewer: why the demand of sublimation printing is limited in Karachi?
Interviewee: demand of sublimation printing is not very high in Karachi as firstly it is done one
pure polyester and because of that the wear ability factor becomes low. And because of that the
demand of sublimation printed clothing is not very high in Karachi.
Interviewer: what are the problems faced in this sector of printing?
Interviewee: there are several problems faced. As due to electricity shortage the production level
becomes slow. Also there is uncertainty in the city and because of that mostly workers don’t
show up on time. So there are several problems faced by this sector.
Interviewer: do you think this technique will be useful in future?
Interviewee: this technique is useful but not on a higher level as because of the limitation of the
fabric and high cost.
Owais 38
Sh Haris Mehmood
Director at Hexagon chemicals importers and wholesaler of textile dyes and chemicals Faislabad.
This interview was conducted on the phone.
Interviewer: what is sublimation printing? and how it is important in our textile sector?
Interviewee: in sublimation printing the design is transferred on the fabric without the use of
water and it is transferred through a heat process. It is also known as heat transfer printing. the
design is first set on the paper and then the paper is placed on the fabric and then through a heat
process the design gets transferred on the fabric. It has its own importance in the textile sector.
As the water being a huge resource, in this process the water is not used.
Interviewer: what kind of fabric do we use for this printing technique?
Interviewee: we can only use pure polyester as otherwise if we use some other fabric lets say
lawn we do not get the desired result.
Interviewer: what is the cost difference in sublimation printing process?
Interviewee: the cost factor rises up to 30 to 40%. As for example if we can get a t-shirt lets say
for 400 hundred rupees of normal printing the sublimation printed t-shirt will cost us 30 to 40%
more.
Interviewer: what is the production rate in Faisalabad?
Owais 39
Interviewee: the production rate in Faisalabad is relatively high then in other cities. As in
Faisalabad there is production of sports goods and other sports items like t-shirts so for that
matter the production rate in Faisalabad is more.
Interviewer: is there any special sort of pigments used in sublimation printing?
Interviewee: yes for sublimation printing there are special pigments that are used which is not
used in other printing techniques and there are also not available in Pakistan. We have to import
then from Turkey.
Interviewer: why do we have fabric limitation in sublimation printing?
Interviewee: for sublimation printing we only use pure polyester as if we use some other fabric
we do not get the desired results.
Interviewer: do you suggest that we should use this process in future as it saves water?
Interviewee: yes indeed it’s a good way to save water but because of certain limitation and other
problems it can not be used in a broader way. As we have limitation of fabric which is very
important and because of the weather conditions that we have in Faisalabad and also in Karachi
people don’t prefer polyester. And the cost factor that is higher than the normal printed t-shirts.
Bilal Kaim khani
Director at Bilal Garments site area Karachi.
Interviewer: what is your opinion about sublimation printing? and how effective is it in our local
market?
Owais 40
Interviewee: sublimation printing is another printing process which we do. And it is done
without water. It is also known as heat transfer printing. and the design gets transferred on the
fabric through a heat process and there is no water used. If we talk about doing it on a large scale
it is not very effective as it has its own limitation. Sublimation printing is done on pure polyester
and because of that we don’t have a huge market of that. Also the pigments that are used in this
printing process are imported from outside the country so because of that the price factor
becomes high.
Interviewer: as compared to other markets like we have in Faisalabad and Sialkot the markets in
Karachi do we have a low demand?
Interviewee: the markets in Faisalabad and in Sialkot are huge when we talk about sports goods.
As the production level is much higher than in Karachi. as the production level is high is Sialkot
and in Faisalabad. In Karachi we don’t have a huge setup of sublimation printing only few
people are doing it so that is why the demand is low.
Interviewer: do you think we can apply this technique for our future mass production?
Interviewee: we can use this but is had no scope in future. As there are lot of limitations. Firstly
being the fabric which we use that is only polyester and polyester is not wearable in the weather
conditions that we have in Karachi. also the cost factor. When we import the pigment from
outside Pakistan the cost level increases and coz of that there will be huge difference in the cost
of sublimation printed t-shirts and normal printed t-shirts.
Owais 41
APPENDIX B
BIBLIOGRAPHY
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AUTHOR NAME: NIIR board of consultant engineers.
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DYES AND DYE INTERMEDIATES
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DATE OF PUBLICATION : 2004
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WEBSITE: www.imagegroupuk.com/print solutions
www.simsotex.com
[MARCH 5TH 2013].
Owais 42
SPEAKER: Not posted.
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WEBSITE TITLE:
www.simsotex.com
DATE OF UPLOAD: UPDATED 2013.
WEBSITE:
www.simsotex.com[MARCH 20TH 2013].
Sublimation 101. The complete guide to successful dye sublimation printing. by Saw Grass
Technologies.
AUTHOR NAME: SAW GRASS TECHNOLOGIES.
BOOK TITLE: SUBLIMATION 101
PLACE OF PUBLICATION: NOT GIVEN. (downloaded online).
DATE OF PUBLICATION : NOT GIVEN (downloaded online).
http://www.eclipsetextiles.com.au/printing-techniques-sublimation-printing.
SPEAKER: not posted.
ARTICLE TITLE: “Printing Techniques”.
WEBSITE TITLE: http://www.eclipsetextiles.com.au/printing-techniques-sublimation-printing.
Owais 43
DATE OF UPLOAD: not uploaded.
WEBSITE: http://www.eclipsetextiles.com.au/printing-techniques-sublimation-printing. [may 12th
2013].
“Manual Of Textile Printing” by “ Joyce Storey” .
AUTHOR NAME: Joyce Storey.
BOOK TITLE: Manual Of Textile Printing.
PLACE OF PUBLICATION: Thames and Hudson ltd , London.
DATE OF PUBLICATION : 1974 and 1992.
http://www.mvpvisuals.com/dye_sub_vs_screen_print.htm by MYP Visuals (Page last updated
06/14/2013 01:35:11)
SPEAKER: not posted.
ARTICLE TITLE: “ Sublimation Vs Screen Print”.
WEBSITE TITLE: http://www.mvpvisuals.com/dye_sub_vs_screen_print.htm
DATE OF UPLOAD:
(06/14/2013 01:35:11).
WEBSITE: http://www.mvpvisuals.com/dye_sub_vs_screen_print.htm by MYP Visuals (Page
last updated 06/14/2013 01:35:11) [May 1st 2013].