Journal of Mediterranean Archaeology 27.1 (2014) 79-100 ISSN (Print) 0952-7648 ISSN (Online) 1743-1700 Archaeology and the Making of Improper Citizens in Modern Greece Hamish Forbes Department of Archaeology, University of Nottingham, Nottingham NG7 2RD, UK E-mail: [email protected] Abstract This study integrates the dominant archaeological discourse concerning use of the Classical past in defining national identity in Greece with a strand of ethnographic research on Greece’s officially unacknowledged minorities that has not found its way into the archaeological literature on Greece. The first part discusses how the Greek state has tried to deny the existence of ethnic alterities within its boundaries, often punishing those who insist on advertising their non-Greek origins. One of the ways in which Hellenisation has been forced on these groups is via an insistence that ‘true’ Greeks’ origins lie in a Classical past. Those whose origins lie elsewhere have been effectively marginalised. The second part of the study focuses on the Greek-Albanian (Arvanitis) minority. As a case study, two Arvanitic groups are compared, one Peloponnesian and one Boeotian. Boeotian Arvanites have no monumental symbolic capital as a usable past employable within the wider national(istic) discourse. In contrast, the Peloponnesian group has a monument linking them to an alternative (nonClassical) past which they use to advertise their right to be considered ‘proper’ Greek citizens. Keywords: Arvanites, Classical past, cultural hegemonisation, ethnic alterities, Greece, heritage Prologue: Babel in Greece — Disconnected Acts in Four Scenes Scene 1: Place: Athens. The time: 2 February 2001. A Greek citizen was sentenced to 15 months in jail for ‘disseminating false information’ which could ‘provoke public anxiety and give the impression that there are minority problems in Greece’. Sotiris Bletsas had distributed a leaflet produced by an EU-linked body at an annual gathering of Greek Vlachs, whose language is related to Rumanian. It listed all the lesser-used languages of Europe: in Greece, Arvanitika (a form of Albanian), Aroumanian (Vlach), Bulgarian (spoken by Moslem Pomaks), SlavMacedonian and Turkish. In effect the court ruled that claiming that any minority languagegroups existed in Greece was a lie. The judge © The Fund for Mediterranean Archaeology/Equinox Publishing Ltd., 2014 stated that the court should not even be discussing the idea of the existence of non-Greek languages in Greece (Baltsiotis and Embiricos 2001: 145-48). Scene 2: Place: Rodopi Criminal Court, Thrace, Northern Greece. The time: 26 January 1990. Dr Ahmet Sadik, a former parliamentarian and community leader, was sentenced to 18 months’ imprisonment for disrupting public peace, because he had described the Turkish-speaking Greek citizens of the region as Turkish rather than Greek. The sentence was subsequently upheld by the Court of Appeals and the Court of Cassation (Areios Pagos) (European Court of Human Rights 1996: especially section 11; Human Rights Watch 1999: especially 11-14). http://dx.doi.org/10.1558/jmea.v27i1.79 80 Forbes Twenty years later, a US State Department document on human rights in Greece indicated concerns about the human rights of this minority, including that Turkish-speaking Greeks were still legally barred from self-identifying as Turkish, despite repeated European Court of Human Rights decisions supporting their right to do so (Wikileaks 2009: esp. paras. 1-3, 6). Scene 3: The place: Athens. The time: the summer of 1998. An Athenian taxi-driver harangued me about a scandal concerning the treatment of the Elgin Marbles (ta Elyinia) by the British Museum. It made me realise that in the many years I have been visiting the Methana peninsula in the northeastern Peloponnese (Figure 1), the issue of the marbles has never been raised. Methanites are Arvanites, a minority group belonging to Figure 1. Methana: location map. © The Fund for Mediterranean Archaeology/Equinox Publishing Ltd., 2014 the Greek Orthodox faith which has existed in Greece for many centuries, speaking a form of the Albanian language but seeing themselves as unimpeachably Greek citizens. Scene 4: The place: the small town of Kranidhi in the Southern Argolid, part of the northeastern Peloponnese. The time: the mid-1980s. While shopping for supplies for an archaeological project, I used a phrase in Arvanitika, which was spoken in the area, although local people never mentioned its existence to project personnel. The response was enthusiastic, with questions about how I knew any of the language and how much I knew. In each successive shop I entered I was greeted in Arvanitika: word had spread rapidly! Once it was established that I valued their minority identity, they were keen to own it. Archaeology and the Making of Improper Citizens in Modern Greece Introduction This study is a contribution to the burgeoning literature on the multivocality of ancient remains, the contested discourses they engender, and the ecologies of power which they constitute. Incorporated in the discussion are aspects of debates in archaeology, history and anthropology over identity within Europe, especially the Mediterranean lands, but also well beyond. The focus is primarily identity’s entanglement with the material record, in the context of current debates over multiple, alternative, and often competing narratives concerning the past (e.g. Karakasidou 1997; Rountree 2003; Colwell-Chanthaphonh 2009; Stroulia and Sutton 2009; Herzfeld 2010; Meier 2013; Niklasson and Meier 2013; Bawaya 2014), the origins of which may be seen in historical debates relating to Hobsbawm and Ranger’s concept of invented traditions (1983), and Anderson’s concept of imagined communities (1991). My explorations owe much to Herzfeld’s engagement with issues of national identity and marginality in the context of Greek anthropology and also more widely across the Mediterranean and Europe as presented in Anthropology through the Looking Glass (Herzfeld 1987, esp. Chapter 1) and further developed, for example, in Herzfeld 2002a. Particularly relevant here is his observation that the nation-state is an ‘imagined community’ whose identity as promulgated by elites may not be shared by other citizens (Herzfeld 2002b: 140). His expositions on the complexities of competing claims to historical and material cultural ‘heritage’ demonstrate the potential to use entangled themes of identity and material culture to categorise not only those who are considered to ‘belong’ but also to marginalise those who do not (e.g. Herzfeld 1991; 2009, esp. 227-28, 301-302) . In an age of global interactions, ‘heritage’ is particularly entangled with a variety of contestations over appropriations of the past and the way traditions are invented, especially if tourist © The Fund for Mediterranean Archaeology/Equinox Publishing Ltd., 2014 81 cash is involved (Herzfeld 1991, esp. 57-58, 144-47, 191-93, 226-28; 2009, esp. 227-33, 304-305, 310-11; Hodder 2003: 56). For example, a fictitious Maya past created on a Honduran island brings in $50 million annually, but devalues the pasts of the disadvantaged ethnic minority original inhabitants (Bawaya 2014). Another locus of a variety of contestations associated with tourism is Malta: Sant Cassia (1999) presents the multivocality of the town of Mdina and its entanglement in contestation by elite and other groups and organisations—including the state—over ownership of its past in the context of an economically dominating tourist industry. A different aspect of contestation over the Maltese past can be seen in Rountree’s (2003) discussion of mother-goddess tourism in the islands’ Neolithic temples. Background Greeks’ use of their ancient past for political purposes and as cultural capital has been the subject of numerous publications in archaeology and anthropology over the last two decades (e.g. Hamilakis and Yalouri 1996; Sutton 1998: 173-78; Stewart 2003; Hamilakis 2007). Arguing that feelings of national identity need material traces from the past, with archaeology as western modernity’s official device for producing a nation’s materiality of the past, Hamilakis (2007: vii) asks: ‘How do different social actors (from the nation-state, to intellectuals, to diverse social groups, including “others” of the nation) deploy antiquity in general and material antiquities in particular, in constructing their own versions of national imagination and in pursuing various agendas at the same time?’ Here ‘antiquities’ and ‘antiquity’ are almost entirely the Classical past of Greece (Hamilakis 2007: 7), used by governmental and other Greek elites as a hegemonising rhetoric. While the presence of Minoan imagery in the procession at the start of the Athens Olympics (Hamilakis 2007: 3-5) might be considered a counterbalance to this view, the 82 Forbes ‘official’ line in heavily prescribed history books in Greek schools mostly favours the rise of Hellenism: for the Bronze Age the primary focus seems to be on Mycenaeans as the first Hellenes (Hamilakis 2003) rather than the non-Greek Minoans. The ‘others’ of the nation in the quotation above are political ‘others’—communists and leftists, for example—who have striven to establish themselves as an alternative hegemonising elite, thus also employing the Classical past as symbolic capital (Hamilakis 2007: 291). The first part of this article, however, explores the existence of other ‘others’, whose ‘otherness’ the Greek state officially denies (e.g. Scenes 1 and 2 above), despite their existence in their present locations for centuries before the formation of the modern Greek state, and despite their relationship to the Greek past. The term which I use for these others is ‘ethnic minorities’. According to the United Nations, the term ‘minority’, as used in its human rights system, ‘usually refers to national or ethnic, religious and linguistic minorities, pursuant to the United Nations Minorities Declaration’. Further, ‘[a]ll States have one or more minority groups within their national territories, characterised by their own national, ethnic, linguistic or religious identity, which differs from that of the majority population’ (United Nations 2010: 2). The UN has defined a minority as: [a] group numerically inferior to the rest of the population of a State, in a non-dominant position, whose members—being nationals of the State—possess ethnic, religious or linguistic characteristics differing from those of the rest of the population and show, if only implicitly, a sense of solidarity, directed towards preserving their culture, traditions, religion or language. (Capotorti and United Nations 1979: para. 568, quoted in United Nations 2010: 2) This definition states clearly that members of such minority groups, including ethnic minorities, have the same nationality or national © The Fund for Mediterranean Archaeology/Equinox Publishing Ltd., 2014 identity as that of the majority, despite ‘nonstandard’ origins. The modern Greek word ethnos, however, has significantly different connotations indicating, in a formal sense, ‘nation’ and nationality. My experience has been that many Greeks who meet the English term ‘ethnic minority’ assume that it automatically indicates groups who claim a nationality or national identity other than Greek. They therefore consider the discussion of indigenous ethnic minorities in Greece to be highly contentious. GefouMadianou (1999: 413), for example, describing one such group, deliberately does not define them as an ethnic minority, repeatedly using the terms ‘marginal’ and ‘marginalised’ instead. While these minorities, or parts of them, are often marginalised, this term is not particularly appropriate in the present context. Despite the potential for mixed messages, therefore, I shall use the phrase ‘ethnic minority’ in this article, since I cannot think of a better English alternative—but with the understanding that it does not signify any alternative national identity (see e.g. Magliveras 2013: 152-53). For the purposes of this study of ethnic alterity, contestation and the identification of alternative significant pasts, Gefou-Madianou’s (1999) discussion is particularly relevant. She notes that identity among these minority communities ‘should be understood not as an object that can be defined outright, but rather as an ongoing process whereby relations of power, authority, and authenticity are negotiated and formulated within particular social and political contexts’ (Gefou-Madianou 1999: 414). Using this approach, I shall discuss how the use of a particular monument as validation of a community’s social worth is part of the group’s dialogical process of negotiating its identity with what it views as a culturally and politically dominant Other, which in turn views members of the community as culturally, ethnically and morally inferior Others. A substantial literature on diverse ethnic and regional Others in Greece has appeared over the Archaeology and the Making of Improper Citizens in Modern Greece last two decades (e.g. Pollis 1992; Karakasidou 1993; Stavros 1995; Sasse 1998; Brunnbauer 1999; Gefou-Madianou 1999; Hart 1999; Kretsi 2002; Bintliff 2003; Herzfeld 2003; Demetriou 2004; Livanios 2006; Magliveras 2009; Lawrence 2011; also several in Tsitselikis 2008: 29 n. 2). In several discussions, Herzfeld touches en passant on the existence of officially unacknowledged minorities in Greece (e.g. Herzfeld 1987: 33, 208; 2002a: 906), noting in particular that the official line emphasises the lack of any diversity: the Italian state, by contrast, is able to accommodate a rich array of minority cultural life, including some minority-language media (Herzfeld 2003: 286). He has not, however, substantially developed this issue in the context of contested pasts. The aim of this study, therefore, is to examine the issue, arguing that the use of the Classical past as a major element in contemporary mainstream Greek identity has effectively marginalised communities whose ethnic origins link them to other pasts. The second part of the article is therefore a case-study examining the relationships of two communities of the Arvanitic minority to their local pasts. One of these communities prefers to avoid linking itself to archaeological sites from its recent past, for fear of arousing prejudice from the ‘mainstream’ population. The other links itself to non-Classical alternative monumentalities1 to self-identify members as worthy citizens, while simultaneously maintaining their distinctive identity and engaging in apparent small symbolic acts of contestation against the hegemonising centre. It is widely acknowledged that the Western idealisation of modern Greeks’ origins in Classical antiquity has been central to the modern Greek state since its foundation, being rapidly indigenised by Greeks themselves (e.g. McNeal 1991; Hamilakis 2007: vii, 287-301). Regularly used in designs on postage stamps and currency (Gounaris 2003), and used repeatedly by the dictator Metaxas in the 1930s (Carabott 2003; Hamilakis 2007: 169-204), it was used again in © The Fund for Mediterranean Archaeology/Equinox Publishing Ltd., 2014 83 campaigns to support Greece during World War II (Hamilakis and Yalouri 1996: 119), and is the primary focus of Greece’s school history-books (Hamilakis 2003). It has likewise been central to the campaign for the return of the Elgin (or Parthenon) marbles to Greece (Scene 3 above). Scholars have noted the ubiquitous use of the Classical past in everyday life, in the negotiation of power among different social groups, and in the attempts of authorities to legitimise their existence (e.g. Hamilakis and Yalouri 1996; Sutton 1998; Hamilakis 2007). Stewart (2003: 485) recounts numerous Greek comments on his own country’s lack of history, and the memorable statement: ‘when we were developing mathematics, the English were still hanging off trees’. Sutton (1998: 173) records a comparable statement. The exclusionary potential inherent in this thinking was demonstrated quite recently in a statement by the leader of a right-wing nationalist political party reported by the newspaper Kathimerini (25 January 2010), concerning a government initiative to grant citizenship to Greek-born children of recent immigrants: ‘Greece is saying “no” to this bill because it does not want Hellenism to be diluted. Greece belongs to its history: we were building the Parthenon when they were still living in trees’. This sort of privileged ownership of the Classical past also allows those at the centres of power to differentiate ‘proper’ Greeks from Others (ethnic, regional, political, etc.) in the Greek nation (e.g. Hamilakis 2007: 205-42). Less frequently discussed, however, is the reality that the idea of a direct unbroken connection between present-day Greeks and their ancient past is an invented tradition (Hobsbawm 1983: 264; Gefou-Madianou 1999: 418; Anderson 2006: 42) originating not directly from Western imposition, but in the rhetoric of high-status Greeks in the 18th century, most of whom were based outside of Greece. At a time when Greece was still part of the Ottoman Empire, the message that they presented to the West was that the ancient Hellenic spirit and culture had 84 Forbes continued unbroken from antiquity to their own time and were desperate for liberation from Turkish oppression. This invention was to play a major role in the intellectual revival of Greece both before and after Independence. As part of their campaign, this group claimed principal ownership of the Classical past, and at the same time a symbolic superiority over other Europeans (Gefou-Madianou 1999: 417-18; Hamilakis 2007: 75-77). The corollary to the last sentence—that ownership of the Classical past automatically defines non-owners, within or beyond Greece’s borders, as inherently inferior— lies at the heart of this study. In keeping with its origins, the emphasis on ownership of the Classical and Hellenistic past, particularly its literary and material manifestations, as the entry key to modern Greek identity has meant that access to that knowledge has been the privilege only of a well-educated minority. Furthermore, the increasing emphasis by the new state on use of the Greek language also reflects at least as much an Ottoman elite preference, rather than a Western classicising one, since before Independence Greek was the language of the educated and commercial elite throughout the Balkans. The designation ‘Greek’ was sometimes used as a marker of an elite class rather than of ethnicity: peasants spoke a variety of other languages (Livanios 2006: 45-46, 58). The discourse of Greek identity has thus suited more privileged members of Greek society, but effectively marginalised regional and ethnic alterities. The dominant archaeological discourse characterising the identity of the Greek nation as based on imported Western ideals of ancient Hellenic origins is thus too simplistic, failing to consider the position of various ethnic and other minorities within the Greek state. Two ‘minority’ groups, Moslems and Jews, are officially recognised, but the existence of any minority groups based on alternative ethnicity has been denied (Herzfeld 2002a: 906)—as clearly evidenced by Scenes 1 and 2 above. This situa© The Fund for Mediterranean Archaeology/Equinox Publishing Ltd., 2014 tion continues Ottoman practice at the time of Greek Independence, which acknowledged only three separate ‘peoples’ (millets), based entirely upon religion: Moslems, Jews and Christians. ‘Nationality’ based on modern concepts of ethnicity, associated with separate languages and cultures, was not recognised (Vucinich 1962: 605; Abu Jaber 1967: 214; Goffman 2002: 9). The Greek state’s poor record in the context of the rights of ethnic and religious alterities, and its emphasis on the Greek language (with its implied ancient roots), thus derives not primarily from imported Western values, but from Greece’s previous history of isolation from the West, latterly in a relatively privileged position within the millet system of the Ottoman Empire and formerly within the Byzantine Empire (Pollis 1992: 171-73, 182; Livanios 2006: 53-54; Tsitselikis 2008: 28). E Pluribus Unum? In 1829, with the modern Greek state emerging from the ruins of its War of Independence from Ottoman Turkey, Prince Klemens Wenzel von Metternich received a letter from Austria’s ambassador in London, which asked: ‘What do we mean by the Greeks?’ Should they be defined as an identifiable people, or as inhabitants of a country or as co-religionists—i.e. members of the Greek Orthodox Church? The geographical area which was approximately the area of ancient Greece was part of the Middle Eastern ethnic mosaic after centuries of Venetian and Ottoman rule: heterogeneous, polyglot, multiethnic and with three separate major religions: Moslem, Jewish and Christian, with Christians being divided into an Orthodox majority and a small but significant Catholic minority (Livanios 2006: 43). Its peoples spoke many languages: Italian (in some of the islands), Albanian (throughout parts of the mainland and in some of the islands), Vlach, Bulgarian and Slavo-Macedonian (particularly in what is now northern Greece), Turkish and many different Archaeology and the Making of Improper Citizens in Modern Greece Greek dialects (Sasse 1998: 41; Livanios 2006; Tsitselikis 2008: 28). This linguistic mix was satirised in Dimitrios Byzantios’s Babylonia, a play produced in 1836 (Byzantios 2003; Frankiskos 2008: 33). With a cast of linguistically diverse ‘Greek’ characters, including an Albanian (Alvanos), it depicts the misunderstandings between these characters resulting from their highly divergent forms of the Greek language. As a result of this heterogeneity, the ‘popular’ Greek language (dhimotiki) which emerged after Independence was itself a deliberate creation out of various contemporary forms (Sasse 1998: 50). It has been claimed that Greeks themselves answered Metternich’s question by emphasising their roots as ‘Hellenes’ rather than as ‘Romans’ (Romii), the latter term emphasising historical links with Constantinople and the medieval Greek Orthodox Byzantine Empire. Thus, it is suggested, they laid a primary stress on a supposedly shared Greek language (McNeal 1991; Livanios 2006: 58). That this can also be understood as a power-grab by an already Greek-speaking educated and mercantile elite (Livanios 2006: 58) is generally ignored. While archaeologists have regularly noted the contribution of Greeks’ ancient past to the development of their national identity over the last 180 years or so, an even greater emphasis was placed on a nation unified by Greek as the only recognised language (Livanios 2006: 58-59, 61). Even today, those citizens who wish to valorise other languages in addition to Greek are treated with severe intolerance (Scenes 1 and 2 above; also below). The insistence on legitimising only Greek also places a strong secondary emphasis on membership of the Greek Orthodox Church, since the church’s liturgy remains entirely in the linguistic form of its origin in later antiquity and the medieval period—though Livanios (2006) would see this relationship the other way around, with Greek Orthodoxy being the primary element. Those of other faiths, which do not use Greek as their © The Fund for Mediterranean Archaeology/Equinox Publishing Ltd., 2014 85 primary liturgical language—especially Roman Catholics, Jews and Moslems—have likewise been treated as second-class citizens (e.g. Stavros 1995; Hart 1999; Kretsi 2002; Tsitselikis 2008). Yet despite sometimes heavy-handed action by the Greek state, and considerable levels of discrimination by Greeks who consider themselves ‘superior’ (see e.g. Whitman 1990: 17-21), non-Greek language groups still exist in Greece. Certain monoglot Greek out-groups—e.g. Sarakatsani and Cretan villagers (Herzfeld 1987: 57-58; 1988: xi-xv, 34-38; 2003)—also prefer to adopt alternative and/or parallel regional and/or quasi-ethnic identities. Thus, local Cretan elites have often ignored or downplayed a Classical and particularly an Athenian Classical past, preferentially focusing on Minoan and Byzantine pasts (Herzfeld 1988: 34-36). The Classical Past and Greek Identity: A Recent Development? As noted above, educated Greeks use Greece’s ancient past as a rhetorical resource, particularly in facing the non-Greek world, and most especially in situations of self-presentation, contestation and debate. My ethnographic experience in the early 1970s, however, talking to a wide cross-section of working-class Greeks with a limited education who visited the spa on Methana, was otherwise. Many at that time were uncomfortable with the idea of connecting themselves with non-Christian (heathen, polytheistic) roots, preferring to connect themselves to the greatness of the Christian Byzantine Empire, stretching from Anatolia through Greece northwards into the Balkans (see e.g. Livanios 2006: 56-57). Not all scholars believe that the present level of emphasis on a Classical past as a crucial part of Greek national identity has a particularly long historical time depth. Gotsi (2000) suggests that the special use of the Classical past in national identity has been particularly precipitated by Greece’s accession to the European 86 Forbes Union in 1981. That new position within a union of states with very different cultures and histories created a cultural anxiety over the possible effacement of Greece’s distinctive culture and history by a very different European homogeneity (Gotsi 2000: 92-93). One way of presenting/performing Greeks’ specialness to/over other Europeans, therefore, has been to focus attention particularly on their Classical heritage. It is almost certainly no coincidence that the campaign to return the Elgin/Parthenon marbles—the ultimate emphasiser of Greece’s unique and dominant cultural position within Europe—started just two years after Greece joined the EU.2 Thus, while a relatively small and well-educated sector of the population has emphasised its roots in the Classical past since the 19th century, the more widespread acceptance of those roots has resulted from a combination of a more assertive performance of Greek specialness by government and a wider recognition of Greece’s place within Europe. Ethnic Alterity in Greece: Two Examples Boeotia With little room for ethnic alterity in the present Greek state, how can some citizens engage with an ancient Greek monumental past most obviously located in Athens—on the Acropolis, and in other high-profile monuments in the centre3—when their ethnic and/or regional identities have little to connect them with that past? Two linked publications exemplify the way in which discussions of Greek identity have so far failed to recognise the existence of ‘others’ whose identities do not focus directly on the Classical Greek past. Pantazatos (2010) discusses the case of Arvanites in Boeotia. Bintliff (2003) had previously discussed his ethical dilemma as an archaeologist in approaching the past of this ethnic group, whose communities are widespread where he conducted fieldwork. While Bintliff wished to publicise archaeological evidence of © The Fund for Mediterranean Archaeology/Equinox Publishing Ltd., 2014 their ethnically differentiated past, the local inhabitants themselves did not wish to have it revealed: publicising it would invite more of the abuse and discrimination that they had previously suffered as minority group members (Bintliff 2003: 138-41; Pantazatos 2010: 99). As a philosopher discussing the ethics of this situation, Pantazatos argues that, from his viewpoint of ‘stewardship’, part of the special relationship of the Arvanitis community with its historical heritage is its right not to have it revealed (Pantazatos 2010: 99). Surprisingly, he ignores the ethical ramifications of the reason why they must deny their own identity and their past, which might otherwise have been valorised: the abuse and discrimination, both as official policy and unofficial behaviour, suffered by generations of Arvanites. Instead, Pantazatos (2010: 97-98) characterises Arvanites as a ‘diaspora community’, although Bintliff himself never defines them as such. This definition, Silverstein (2005: 364-66) argues, problematises them as an ‘immigrant community’, racialising and exoticising them. It implicitly suggests an element of rootlessness, ignoring the fact that Arvanitic communities were already established in the area in the late medieval period, many centuries before the foundation of the Greek state (Bintliff 2003: 132-33), and instead implicitly equates them with the late-20th-century Albanian diaspora. In reality, they are better seen as an indigenous population, as defined by the International Labour Organization Indigenous and Tribal Peoples Convention (International Labour Organization 1989; see also Watkins 2005: 430). Watkins (2005: 441) highlights the ethical problem of indigenous groups who, for various reasons, prefer not to draw attention to themselves by relating themselves to their archaeology. He suggests that their silence may not reflect lack of interest in their past(s), but past lack of concern by those at the powercentres of the archaeological establishment for engaging with these groups’ alterities. Archaeology and the Making of Improper Citizens in Modern Greece Brown and Hamilakis (2003a: 9) are more sympathetic to the complexities of the Boeotian situation. They emphasise the exclusion of Arvanites from the dominant national narrative based on Classical antiquity, the impact of xenophobic and racist attacks on recent immigrants from post-communist Albania, and the need of Arvanites to distinguish themselves from the recent immigrant community. Bintliff, however, also focuses on the resilience of Arvanitic ethnic identity in the face of over a century of sustained policies of total Hellenisation, including the deliberate ethnic cleansing of their toponymic landscapes, replacing indigenous toponyms with sometimes highly inappropriate Greek names (Bintliff 2003: 138-39). By contrast, Brown and Hamilakis dwell primarily on the impact of recent (illegal) immigration from Albania, aligning themselves with the centralist line by suggesting that as a foreign researcher Bintliff was imposing his own ‘ethnic’ or ‘minority’ label onto the Boeotian Arvanitis situation (Brown and Hamilakis 2003a: 9). In fact, the exogenous foreigner probably brings less cultural baggage to the situation than Greek archaeologists who have grown up within the dominant discourse on the relationship of ‘proper’ Greeks to their past. As Livanios (2006: 65-68) notes, these ‘ethnic’ labels were imposed in the later 19th century by local political and religious elites who strove to differentiate ‘Greeks’, ‘Bulgarians’, etc. This ultimately resulted in the Second Balkan War of 1913 and subsequently a tendency to define intolerable ‘ethnic’ groups who spoke languages other than the nationally approved one. The Northeastern Peloponnese The inhabitants of the village of Kiladha, close to Kranidhi (Scene 4 above), do not consider the ancient past of their most famous archaeological site—the Franchthi Cave, just across the bay—to be important. Instead, they reminisce about the cave in its recent past as a goatherd’s dwelling, and a location for parties and for gathering a range of commodities (Stroulia and © The Fund for Mediterranean Archaeology/Equinox Publishing Ltd., 2014 87 Sutton 2009: 124-25). Stroulia and Sutton (2009: 126-27) link Kiladhiotes’ amnesia of the ancient world with the situation further north in the eastern Peloponnese. The local inhabitants near the famous ancient religious complex of Nemea are largely indifferent to its remains: while archaeologists value an archaeological past, the local community prefers a much more recent past of agricultural expansion (Stroulia and Sutton 2009: 131). When the American excavators of the ancient site first initiated re-enactments of the ancient games there, there was very little local participation. Significantly, in light of the contention that Greeks’ ancient heritage has been appropriated primarily by more privileged sectors of society, most of the contestants came from Athens or the USA (Stroulia and Sutton 2009: 134). It is suggested that this landscape dissonance, in which local inhabitants and archaeologists see sites and their vicinities in completely different ways, is primarily the result of the ways in which archaeologists—especially, though not exclusively, non-Greeks—behave when excavating, and also when presenting and preserving ancient sites (Stroulia and Sutton 2009: 12733). Not once, however, do the authors consider the possible impact of both these communities’ Albanian-speaking pasts (the original Albanian names of both local villages have been expunged in favour of Greek-sounding replacements) on their relationship with ancient sites. This is not surprising, since, as a result of their recent histories, members of these communities, although valuing their origins, would not readily identify themselves as part of an ‘improper Greek’ minority to an exogenous observer (Scene 4 above). As noted below, Arvanites tend to take on multiple identities, often identifying as Greek when interacting with outsiders, but asserting an Arvanitic identity at a local level. In yet another Arvanitic community not far from Nemea, ethnic alterity status is a significant complicating factor in its relationship to another important Classical site (Deltsou 2009). Once again, therefore, it 88 Forbes is important to recognise the officially unrecognised ‘otherness’ of such Greeks and their local pasts when discussing their relationships with their archaeological landscapes. Residents in the area around Nemea prefer to place a high value on a local cave instead of the archaeological site. Although it is linked in local belief to the mythical Nemean lion killed by Hercules (Stroulia and Sutton 2009: 126-27), this is a natural feature. While the associated myth might be ancient, it does not make the cave a Classical or Hellenistic site. Myths take place outside of time, or rather in a homogenised past completely divorced from the ‘real’ gradated time of historians and archaeologists, and of archaeological remains (Forbes 2007: 207-12, 401; 2009: 101). For this reason, especially when associated with natural features, themselves also outside of archaeologists’ ‘real’ time, they can be accommodated into local identity whereas archaeological sites cannot. Significantly, the Franchthi Cave also has a mythical past, as its name i Kyklopa (the Cyclops) attests (Stroulia and Sutton 2009: 125). When I excavated there, it was clear that the myth of the Cyclops had real meaning for the local workmen in a way that the finds themselves did not. The situation is also similar to that on Methana: Methanites largely ignore the remains of the Classical and Hellenistic city, preferring to focus on a large cave discovered in 1973 and the highest peak, Khelona. The latter feature is associated with a myth involving a queen and an Egyptian king (Forbes 2007: 20810). The local inhabitants in these three areas, therefore, focus not on archaeological remains, but on natural features which have been given added significance via their linkage to mythical events divorced from archaeologists’ time. Arvanites: A Case Study in Ethnic Alterity A Contradictory Identity I turn now to a more in-depth consideration of the Arvanites. As a group they have mostly © The Fund for Mediterranean Archaeology/Equinox Publishing Ltd., 2014 merged well with the mainstream Greek-speaking population (e.g. Gefou-Madianou 1999: 413, 415-16; Bintliff 2003: 139-41; Magliveras 2013: 152-54). As Greek Orthodox Christians they do not obviously differ from most other Greeks. At the time of the Greek Revolution, Greek-Albanian society was multi-stranded. Arvanitika was spoken side-by-side with Greek by upper-class inhabitants, as well as by ordinary farmers and sailors, and it was in the process of becoming a literary, rather than a purely spoken, language (Sasse 1998: 49). A criticism of an earlier draft of this study was that I seemed to consider Arvanites all to be poorly educated peasants. Although my detailed ethnographic analysis below relates to a rural area, my ethnographic research has brought me into contact with a range of Arvanitis professionals, especially but by no means exclusively Methanites, and I have academic colleagues who also claim an Arvanitic background. Arvanites in many walks of life are happy to admit to that identity when they feel safe to do so, one such example being the parliamentarian Theodoros Pangalos (Eleftherotypia 2002). Gefou-Madianou, whose work is crucial here, notes that the Arvanitic group that she met in Attica was composed of university students and professionals. Younger people in particular were coming together, playing and singing Arvanitic songs, and dancing to them—acts which they acknowledged would have worried older residents who were opposed to any expression of Arvanitic culture (Gefou-Madianou 1999: 416). In fact, as she makes abundantly clear (1999: 412-13), the ideology of Arvanites as exclusively peasants is that of Greece’s elite (a term she uses repeatedly), and is very much at odds with reality. Albanian speakers may have settled in some parts of Greece as early as the 9th century ad: their presence is well documented in the 13th and 14th centuries (Magliveras 2009: 15). By the time of the Greek Revolution their communities were widespread on the Greek mainland and some of the islands (Sasse 1998: 44-46). Archaeology and the Making of Improper Citizens in Modern Greece Because of their large numbers in the Peloponnese, both in the mountains and in the coastal islands of Hydra, Spetses and Poros with their very substantial fleets, it has been argued that they provided the main military muscle which realised the nationalist dreams of the Ottoman Greek merchant class in the Revolution (Lawrence 2011: 37). A late 19th-century Turkish writer identified two main ‘cinsiyet’—a term with a more limited meaning than ‘nation’—in Greece: Albanian and Greek (Boyar 2007: 50). Despite their long history and positive contribution to the Greek nation, since the middle of the 19th century Arvanitic populations have been stigmatised by a predominantly Athenian elite which sees itself as the ‘purest representatives’ of the Greek national identity constructed in that century and which has traditionally viewed Arvanites as culturally degenerate, uncivilised, and marginal—a characterisation still accepted by the Athenian population at large (Gefou-Madianou 1999: 412-13 n. 2). Under Greece’s long-standing Hellenisation policy towards unacknowledged linguistic (‘ethnic’) alterities, Arvanites were considered particularly problematic in the later 19th and early 20th centuries. In the mid- and later 19th century, the Greek state’s response to emerging Albanian nationalism and the eventual formation of the Albanian state in 1913, and to claims that Albanians had largely replaced the original Greek population in late antiquity, was an intensive campaign of linguistic Hellenisation and assimilation (Sasse 1998: 51-52; GefouMadianou 1999: 420). The use of Arvanitika was particularly oppressively discouraged under the Metaxas dictatorship (1936–40). In the post-war period, further active and forcible imposition of Greek occurred, especially under the military junta (1967–74) (Sasse 1998: 55; Gefou-Madianou 1999: 420-21). Nevertheless Sasse (1998: 41) estimates that there are still over 300 communities in Greece of identifiable Arvanitic descent; Bintliff (personal communication) considers this an underestimate. © The Fund for Mediterranean Archaeology/Equinox Publishing Ltd., 2014 89 Official Greek rhetoric clearly differentiating Arvanites from modern Albanians (Alvani) (e.g. Bintliff 2003: 139; Forbes 2009: 102) only developed in the later 19th century as an artefact of the state’s Hellenisation policy. Previously, Arvanites and their language were simply considered Albanian (Greek Helsinki Monitor Minority Rights Group n.d.). In contrast to official differentiation between Arvanites and Albanian nationals, recent ethnographic studies describe Albanian migrants being recognised and accepted by Arvanitika-speaking villagers as culturally related (Athanassopoulou 2005; Magliveras 2009; 2013). I have observed elderly inhabitants on the Methana peninsula conversing with Albanian migrants using Arvanitika in preference to Greek. When I started conducting ethnographic studies and they knew I was sympathetic, Methanites soon made me aware of their Arvanitic identity, emphasising that they were better Greeks than those from some other parts of Greece, whom they considered uncivilised, badly-behaved and violent. In Attica, while Arvanites highly value their distinctive language, culture and origins, directly challenging the dominant national discourse on ‘true’ Greek identity, they prefer to hide it from non-Arvanites because of hostile reactions (e.g. Gefou-Madianou 1999: 416). Boeotian Arvanites whom Bintliff (2003) met were also reticent about publicly disclosing and monumentalising their alterity. Some Boeotian communities, however, seem prepared to advertise their Arvanitic heritage. A widely advertised reconstruction of an Arvanitic wedding was performed in the village of Mavrommati in June 2013, although the emphasis was on traditional music and dances, not material remains.4 Nevertheless, when I visited this village for the first time in August 2013, those whom I met were not interested in discussing their Arvanitic heritage with an unknown foreigner. It is evident from these examples and the substantial ethnographic and ethnolinguistic literature on Greece’s Arvanites that there is 90 Forbes considerable variability in the readiness of people in different Arvanitic communities to identify themselves, which may sometimes be affected by very short-term political considerations (e.g. Gefou-Madianou 1999: 416). Thus, in one Arvanitis mountain community in the Peloponnese, some of the younger men present their Arvanitis identity very publically as a means of aggressively breaching cultural norms (Lawrence 2011: 40-41). Sasse (1998: 56-57), however, notes very mixed attitudes towards the speaking of Arvanitika within Arvanitis populations, especially in villages in Attica and Boeotia. Gefou-Madianou (1999: 414) describes Arvanitic identity in Attica as Greek in a national context, but Arvanitic in more localised contexts. Thus there is considerable variability in Arvanites’ readiness to self-identify, and they can take on multiple identities. These depend heavily on contingent factors, the specific social contexts of encounters, the structural position of the person being addressed, the speaker’s values and the overall context, conversational and social (Tsitsipis 2009; Magliveras 2013; see Scene 4 above, and also below). The desire for an articulate Arvanitis voice led to the foundation of a number of national and regional Arvanitis associations. Founded in 1981, the primary aim of the Arvanitis League of Greece, according to its former website (which was on-line in August 2012, but is currently unavailable; the site has come and gone over the years), was to research the contribution of Arvanites to Greece’s history and to preserve their language and traditional songs. Significantly, while the website made no reference to ancient physical or monumental evidence of their origins, there was an emphasis on the primeval origins of Arvanites’ civilisation. This seems to refer to a line of 20th-century scholarship accepted by some Arvanites—and also by a number of Albanian nationalists— that the original ancestors of Albanians and of Greece’s Arvanites were the Pelasgians, a mythical race that the ancient Greeks believed inhab© The Fund for Mediterranean Archaeology/Equinox Publishing Ltd., 2014 ited Greece before they arrived (Sasse 1998: 48, 55; de Rapper 2009). While those at the centres of power have emphasised their millennia-long ancestry from the Hellenes of ancient Greece (Gefou-Madianou 1999: 419-20), Albanians are now attempting to trump their cards historically by linking themselves to the prestigious ‘original’ inhabitants of Greece, older even than the Classical ‘ancestors’, who subsequently transferred their civilisation to the Greeks, who are thus represented as merely parvenu inhabitants of the land (de Rapper 2009: 58-61). Nevertheless, because of the stigma of their non-Hellenic identity, Arvanites could not publicly own their historical roots. The recent major influx of ethnic Albanians following the collapse of communism in 1991 has given Arvanites further reasons not to acknowledge those roots (Gefou-Madianou 1999: 416; Bintliff 2003: 138). Of all the migrant groups in Greece in the 1990s and early 2000s at least, ethnic Albanians were the most visible, most reviled and most particularly associated with criminality in Greek social consciousness (Rougheri 1997; Vidali 1999; Baldwin-Edwards 2004: 58-61). Alterity and Alternative Monuments: Methana In the face of the sorts of marginalisation discussed here, what sorts of material past(s) do Methanites, as Arvanites, use to identify themselves as ‘proper’ Greeks? To most Methanites, the impressive remains of the ancient city of Methana were less important parts of their cognitive maps of the landscape than the local cave, the highest peak or the most recent volcano (Forbes 2009: 101). Methanites’ lack of interest in Classical antiquities is broadly paralleled by the situation in the Arvanitic village of Vasiliko near Corinth, located on the site of the ancient Greek city of Sikyon. Deltsou (2009: 181, 183) notes that the issue of how or even whether Vasilikariotes connect themselves to the ancient Classical past on which their village stands is complex. Villagers repeatedly stated that they, or ‘the village’, had no interest in antiquities Archaeology and the Making of Improper Citizens in Modern Greece (Deltsou 2009: 181, 187), yet they did not ignore them. As incomes from agriculture declined, they became aware of the need to develop the tourism which might be connected with their ancient site (see above on connections with tourism). However, the local museum which, it was hoped, would attract tourists and their cash, was closed after earthquake damage and remained so for two decades. Many also noted that the Greek Archaeological Service was currently not working on ‘their’ site, whereas it was actively developing nearby sites. Their viewpoint was technically correct, but ignored the existence of non-excavation survey projects on the site in which the Archaeological Service was not the prime mover (e.g. Lolos et al. 2007; Sarris et al. 2008; Lolos 2011). Some Vasilikariotes used these concerns over the lack of clear direct involvement in their site by central governmental authorities to construct an anti-hegemonic discourse based on feelings of inferiority (Deltsou 2009: 181-84, 187). Methanites connected themselves neither with the glories of ancient monuments in Athens nor with the ancient sites on their peninsula. Yet they have considered themselves to be every bit as Greek as all other Greek citizens, and much better than some badly-behaved sections of the nation. Their most significant heritage site connecting themselves to unimpeachable Greekness has been the fortifications constructed by the French philhellene Charles Fabvier on the peninsula’s isthmus during the War of Independence (Mee et al. 1997: 165-67). He considered Methana an ideal defensive location in which to train his force of international volunteers after it had recently received a severe mauling in action against Ottoman forces (St Clair 1972: 291-92). Few buildings are easily visible now, but the main fortification remains readily identifiable (Figure 2). This structure is evidently the focus of considerable nationalistic pride. A large painting of the Greek national flag was placed there many Figure 2. The Kastro Favierou: Charles Fabvier’s Revolutionary War fortification on the Methana isthmus. © The Fund for Mediterranean Archaeology/Equinox Publishing Ltd., 2014 91 92 Forbes Figure 3. Two Greek national flags prominently displayed on the Kastro Favierou. years ago: the specific design was superseded in 1978. A second, slightly smaller version painted nearby is evidently later, since it uses the current design (Figure 3) (Army General Staff 2003; Breschi n.d.). Another, much smaller, painting of the Greek flag—yet another design—has been painted inside a gun-slit (Figure 4). Over the years that I have spent on their peninsula, Methanites have regularly emphasised the importance of the Kastro Favierou (as it is known), as a monument and a statement of their community’s contribution to modern Greece’s foundation. During the Methana Archaeological Survey the main fortification was initially thought to be Venetian. Methanites were very disappointed when I mentioned this possibility: for them it was specifically as a War of Independence monument that the ruins had their full meaning. © The Fund for Mediterranean Archaeology/Equinox Publishing Ltd., 2014 There is only the one site of this era on the peninsula, however. The lack of other sites of this period on the peninsula is significant: some 40 years ago, during increased repression of Arvanites by the military dictatorship, Methanites felt it necessary to increase their links to this nationally formative period by constructing a second Revolutionary War monument in the form of a memorial stele (Figure 5). The monument to the Revolutionary War fallen on Methana commemorates the leader of a band of Methanitis fighters, listing the nationallyrevered leaders with whom they were associated and the battles in which they fought. It further records that he gave his life for the cause of independent Greece—the ultimate patriotic sacrifice. The monument is associated with the church of Ayios Yeoryios, a focal point where Methanites from all over the peninsula and Archaeology and the Making of Improper Citizens in Modern Greece 93 Figure 4. Greek flag-design used during the Revolutionary War, in a gun-slit of the Kastro Favierou. expatriates from other parts of Greece, especially Athens and Piraeus, gather in large numbers every year for the national celebration of St George’s Day. This is the place which represents pan-Methana feeling most intensely. The stele’s significance for Methanites seems to have grown over time. Until the 1980s it was tucked away on the margins of a large empty and dusty area surrounding the church. The area has since been landscaped and planted with trees: the stele now has a prominent place much closer to the church (Forbes 2007: 263-64, 370-74). The significance of the fort for Methanites also seems to have increased over time. In March 2013, a Methanitis journalist uploaded an article in an online organ describing itself as the first portal for Piraeus (the administrative centre for Methana’s region) and shipping matters (Athanasiou 2013). He describes his participation in © The Fund for Mediterranean Archaeology/Equinox Publishing Ltd., 2014 the first ever flag-raising at the fort. He then tells the fort’s history, emphasising that this was where Greece’s regular army was born, and the central part it played during the War of Independence: ‘Methana in 1826 became the centre of the struggle [for independence]’. He then mentions the contingent of Methanites and their involvement in the Revolutionary War, specially noting that the name of their leader, who made the ultimate sacrifice, was Arvanitic. While Methanites cannot connect themselves to this time through memory, there are visible monumental reminders, original and retro-constructed, via which they can associate themselves with the events which founded the nation. Local patriotic pride and identity as worthy Greek citizens, therefore, is clearly focused on this aspect of Methanites’ historical heritage. These material links, not the ancient 94 Forbes Figure 5. Stele commemorating the leader of a Revolutionary War band of Methanites, set up in 1968. city ruins, connect Methanites to history and to the Greek nation: they also demonstrate Methanites’ status as true patriots. Finally, on a somewhat speculative note, I return to Methanites’ identity as thoroughly Greek yet simultaneously in contestation with those in the centres of power. The flag in Figure 4 seems inherently unofficial, being small and semi-hidden in the embrasure of a gun-slit, yet it may have considerable symbolic significance, reflecting the entanglement of Methanites’ identity as ‘others’ with the overwhelming specialness for rural Greeks of their topos, the place where they live (Bernard 1976: 289). It is one of several different designs in simultaneous use during the Revolution, but not the one described in the provisional government’s © The Fund for Mediterranean Archaeology/Equinox Publishing Ltd., 2014 decree of 15 March 1822. Rather, it is a design that was especially popular in the Peloponnese, and which is frequently associated with one of the greatest war leaders of the revolution, Theodhoros Kolokotronis (Army General Staff 2003; Breschi 2003-5; Greeka n.d.; Megas Odigos Ekpaidefseos n.d.). The connection to Kolokotronis seems logical, since the war band mentioned on the memorial stele served under his nephew, Nikitaras. However, although it might seem logical that a Peloponnesian site of this period should be associated with this flag design, I believe there are messages of contestation in its appearance here. Administratively speaking, Methana and the immediately adjoining parts of the Peloponnese belong to Athens and Attica. They are thus administratively disconnected from the rest of the Peloponnese, to which they belong by all geographical logic: local government policy is dominated by the needs of the capital city, with which Methanites feel they have little in common. Secondly, Kolokotronis was a soldier, rather than a politician. Although now seen as one of the most influential individuals of the Revolutionary War, he is also renowned for being regularly at loggerheads with the politicians in the new Greek government. He is also widely believed, as indicated by the metaliterature of numerous Greek internet sites, to have been an Arvanitis. In other words, while this little graffito can be read superficially as a straightforward patriotic statement, it can also be read as a minor act of contestation in advertising simultaneously a regional and an ethnic alterity in opposition to the centres of power in Athens. Conclusion Over the last two decades, archaeological discussion has tended to accept the message of those at the centres of power in Greece that a Classical and Hellenistic past is essential for a ‘proper’ Greek identity. This rhetoric serves to problematise and marginalise certain groups of Archaeology and the Making of Improper Citizens in Modern Greece ‘others’ whose alternative identities—which do not fit this particular past—have been the focus of other scholars, primarily anthropologists and legal specialists. I have attempted here to unite these two strands of scholarship, in outlining the nature of some of these alterities and the way in which the dominant archaeological discourse has impacted on their identities. Since there is far more to be said on such complex issues than is possible here, I have focused on one of the less visible ‘others’ of the nation, the Arvanites, whose relationship with their own unique material heritage has been recently identified within the context of archaeological research in Boeotia (Bintliff 2003). Arvanites evidently have very complex and variable relationships with their own alternative identities and therefore their pasts, which have yet to be fully explored. Nevertheless, in how they link themselves to those pasts there seem to be clear differences between Methanites, who have readily valorised the ‘specialness’ of their place (physiccally and metaphorically) in the Greek past, and Boeotian Arvanites. Although Bintliff (2003: 140-41) is not completely convinced that Boeotian Arvanites were as unconcerned with valorising a past recently discovered via archaeological survey as they would have liked him to believe, they expressed no desire to connect themselves to it. The past uncovered there, however, was one primarily of sherd-concentrations, dots on maps, etc.—essentially an academic one, only readily accessible via a knowledge of the conventions of archaeology, a kind of knowledge generally denied to all but a very few. There was no highly visible monument to which Boeotian Arvanites could link their historical identity. These remains also largely date to a period between Alexander the Great and the Greek Revolution, which is generally not foregrounded in the national historical imagination (Bintliff 2003: 137). The two cases therefore are not directly comparable, because of differences in the kinds of pasts on offer. Boeotian Arvanites’ past(s) were not ‘usable’ (as defined by Brown and Hamilakis © The Fund for Mediterranean Archaeology/Equinox Publishing Ltd., 2014 95 2003b) in a dialogical process with a culturally and politically dominant Other, and could not be presented without explicitly referencing their ethnic alterity. In contrast, Methanites were able to treat the two monuments discussed here as symbolic capital because they linked them to a past which was highly ‘usable’ in presenting the specialness of their place within the context of a sub-set of the dominant discourse of the Greek national imagination. Part of that ‘usability’ relates to the monuments’ multivocality. Its historical context is meaningful without reference to any alterity status. Yet it can simultaneously be a reminder of their Arvanitic origins and also act as the focus for minor acts of contestation which remind Methanites of their regional Peloponnesian heritage in opposition to those dominant Others in the capital. Acknowledgements Some of the ideas in this article lie in an invited lecture given at the Joukowsky Institute for Archaeology and the Ancient World at Brown University in April 2009, and participation in an Archaeological Ethnographies Workshop on the island of Poros, Greece in May 2009. My warmest thanks to the Joukowsky Institute, and especially Ömür Harmanşah, for the first invitation and to Yannis Hamilakis and Aris Anagnostopoulos for the second. This article was written while I was a Visiting Professor at Aarhus University, Denmark: warm thanks are also due to that university and especially the Institute for History and Area Studies for the invitation to such a pleasant and fruitful research environment. Thanks for encouraging and helpful comments on an earlier draft are also due to John Bintliff, Lin Foxhall and Ömür Harmanşah: likewise to JMA’s reviewers, for their insights and advice. Particular thanks are due to Linos Papachristou for his kind permission to publish the illustrations in Figures 3 and 4. None of the above is in any way responsible for any infelicities in this work, nor the views expressed therein. 96 Forbes This article is dedicated to the memory of Chris Mee, who contributed so much to Methana archaeology. About the Author Hamish Forbes recently retired as Associate Professor and Reader in Anthropological Archaeology in the Department of Archaeology at Nottingham University and is currently an Associate of that university. His research interests primarily involve the integration of ethnographic and archaeological approaches in the Mediterranean region, particularly Greece. His main focus is on social issues, and environmental concerns relating to agriculture, pastoralism and the meanings of landscapes. He is the author of Meaning and Identity in a Greek Landscape: An Archaeological Ethnography (Cambridge University Press, 2007), and ‘Off-site scatters and the manuring hypothesis in Greek survey archaeology: an ethnographic approach’, Hesperia 82 (2013) 551-94. Notes 1.‘Monumentality’, a term widely used in archaeology but rarely defined, relates to items of material culture, normally though not exclusively immobile and of substantial size, which have important cultural resonance, normally associated in some way with memory. 2.One anonymous reviewer commented on the way in which Melina Mercouri, who started the campaign for the return of the marbles, appealed to ‘base instincts within Greek society’. 3.This is not to deny the importance of sites such as Olympia and Delphi within the national imagination, but the hegemonisation of the discourse on identity by mostly Athenian elites means that the rhetoric focuses on Athens. 4.An advert for the event can be seen at sites including aliartaios (http://aliartio.blogspot. co.uk/2013/06/blog-post_651.html), Leontari Thivon (http://leontari-thivon.blogspot. co.uk/2013/06/blog-post_27.html) and palo, © The Fund for Mediterranean Archaeology/Equinox Publishing Ltd., 2014 (http://www.palo.gr/kentrikh-ellada-nea/arvanitikos-gamos-sto-mayrommati/8276389/). 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