CCC Project Manual
BASIC CONSTRUCTION
SKILLS
Basic Construction Skills
Introduction to Skills
The skills and information contained in this section are useful to know for most construction projects. Rather
than include them in each how-to section of this manual, we have consolidated this basic information here. The
subsequent sections may or may not include the information in this section, so read this first to ensure that you
have a good understanding of these basics.
Some Construction Terminology
Here are some phrases you may run across in this manual that
may be foreign to you, but are useful to understand:
•
“Level”: True horizontal.
•
“Plumb”: True vertical. Straight up and down. Not
leaning. For example, you want all posts to be “plumb.”
•
“Square”: When two straight objects (e.g. boards) are
perfectly perpendicular, forming a 90° angle with one
another.
•
“Load-Bearing”: When something is load-bearing, it is
capable of supporting the weight of structures, furniture,
appliances, people, etc. on top of it.
•
“Running Wild”: You may hear of letting boards “run wild.” This means that you install a board before
cutting it to its final, finished length. Typical boards that run wild include posts and decking boards for a
porch. For example, when building a wheelchair ramp, it’s good to set the posts, and let them run wild
while building the framework.
•
“Crowns Up”: Many boards are not perfectly straight but
may have a slight curve to them. This is called the
“crown.” When you are attaching boards on edge, such
as joists, step stringers, and handrails, keep the “crowns
up,” where the wood bows upward. The rule is easy to
remember when you think that over time, the weight on
top of the structure will eventually help the board
straighten back out. If you attach the board “crowns
down,” its downward bow will only get worse over time.
So keep “crowns up.”
•
“Cups Down”: Most boards will have a curved grain pattern on each end. Look at this pattern, and ensure that
decking boards are attached with the “cups down,” that
is, with the curves of the grain facing towards the
ground. Sometimes you may find that when you lay it
“cups down,” the board might be particularly ugly on
that side, with large chunks of wood missing, splintering,
or other hazards for someone who might walk on the
deck. In cases like this, you can attach the board “cups
up.” As with decking, try to attach handrails with cups
facing TOWARD the structure, unless this leaves an ugly
board exposed.
42 - CONSTRUCTION SKILLS
Carolina Cross Connection Project Manual
Basic Construction Skills
•
“On Center”: The distance from the center of one regularly spaced framing member to the next. Studs
and joists are commonly 16 or 24 inches “on center.” This can also be abbreviated OC. When you say
that joists are 16” on center, you are saying that the center of each joist is 16” from the center of the
next joist. When you are installing joists “on center,” however, you do not have measure between the
exact centers of each joists. There is a much easier way. Simply pull measurements from the LEFT side
of one joist to the LEFT side of the next joist, or, from the RIGHT side of one joist to the RIGHT side of
the next joist. This method will still give you the proper spacing you need. See diagram for help.
How to Measure and Mark Boards
When marking boards, try to avoid making thick, heavy lines when marking measurements on board. Instead, use
a method called the “crow’s foot.” Begin with a sharpened pencil. Put the point of the pencil at the appropriate
measurement, and make a small angled mark. Then put the pencil point back at the appropriate measurement,
and make another mark at a different angle. You now have a point at the correct measurement. Now line up a
speed square at that point, and make one line only across the board. You shouldn’t have to bear down too hard.
Carolina Cross Connection Project Manual
CONSTRUCTION SKILLS - 43
Basic Construction Skills
How to Use Extension cords
•
If you are plugging multiple extension cords into each other, use the thickest gauge cords first, closest to
the power source.
•
It’s good idea to tie ends of cords together in a simple horseshoe know to keep things from coming unplugged.
How to Operate a Circular Saw
•
ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GOGGLES! Prescription glasses or sunglasses alone do not offer sufficient protection. If you wear glasses, wear safety goggles over them.
•
Always place the extension cord out of the way, so that you don’t risk cutting it.
•
Whenever possible, saw with your stronger, writing hand.
•
Do not saw BETWEEN two saw bucks. As you cut, the boards will begin to pinch together, causing the saw
blade to bind and kick out. This is very dangerous! Instead, arrange your cutting area such that you are
making your cut on the outside of the saw bucks.
•
Have someone standing away from the saw, holding the board to the saw bucks, to prevent it from slipping.
•
Keep the saw blade AWAY from the wood as you squeeze the trigger. Then, with the engine running,
move the saw slowly toward the mark. If you start the engine with the blade touching the wood, you are
likely to bind the saw and cause it to jump back towards yourself or others.
•
Usually, you do not need to have someone catching the piece of wood that falls after the cut is made.
This can also cause the saw to bind dangerously, and puts the person’s fingers close to the saw blade.
Usually, it’s much better to let gravity simply bring the board down. If you do have a catcher, they
should not pull up on the board, but hold it loosely and guide it along with gravity.
•
Remember to account for the blade’s width when cutting. Try to make saw cuts to the OUTSIDE of the
mark towards the side of the board that will be “waste,” rather than exactly on the mark. When you cut
exactly on the line, you may loose some of the overall length of the board.
44 - CONSTRUCTION SKILLS
Carolina Cross Connection Project Manual
Basic Construction Skills
•
Hold the saw so that the plate sits flat on the board. Try not to tilt up-down or side-to-side.
•
If the saw starts binding or the blade stops moving while the motor is running, let go of the trigger. Do
not force the saw.
•
Don’t fight to push the saw through the wood. If you are, then your blade may be dull, or you may be
tilting the saw one way or the other.
•
Don’t set the saw on any surface while it is still running. Wait for the blade to stop turning.
How to Rip a Board
There may be times when you need to fill a gap with a board
that is too narrow for any of the boards you have on site. When
this happens you may need to “rip” a board to make it narrow
enough to fit in the gap. Ripping a board is a method of sawing
WITH the grain, whereas most of the sawing you will do otherwise is done ACROSS the grain. Because you’re sawing with the
grain, the saw blade is much more unpredictable, therefore,
ripping should only be attempted by those who are very skilled
at using a circular saw. Here are steps and tips for ripping.
1.
Measure the gap where a ripped board is needed. Measure all sides, as sometimes the gap may be an odd shape
(i.e. not a perfect rectangle).
2.
Take these measurements and use a tape measure, pencil, and chalk line to mark a board accordingly.
3.
Place the board on a set of saw bucks. Slide another
board or two underneath that board to make sure you
don’t cut through the bucks. Set the saw blade at a
shallow depth, but still able to cut through the board.
4.
For the safety of the saw operator and those around, it
is much easier if the board being ripped is temporarily
attached to the saw bucks. Drive two nails into the
board to hold it in place. Don’t drive them all the way;
leave the head protruding ¼” - ½” to make it easier for
you to pull the nail later. Make sure these nails will be
clear of the saw when you begin cutting. If possible,
drive nails into the “waste” side of the board.
5.
Make sure you’re wearing safety goggles before cutting!
Ripping a board can kick up a lot of particles!
6.
Start the saw running away from the board and then
ease the blade toward the mark. Rip slowly and carefully, holding onto the saw firmly with two hands, walking alongside the board. Don’t EVER force a circular
saw, especially when ripping.
7.
Be aware of the power cord, as it may get pinched behind you in the ripped section of the board(s).
Carolina Cross Connection Project Manual
CONSTRUCTION SKILLS - 45
Basic Construction Skills
How to Change the Depth or Angle of a Circular Saw Blade
•
Always UNPLUG the saw first before making any adjustments to a circular saw!
•
Most circular saws have wing nuts, knobs, or some other device used for changing the depth or angle of
the saw blade. Adjust these knobs to the specifications you need and make sure you RETIGHTEN them as
tight as they can be.
•
Plug in the saw, and test it first, away from any wood to make sure the blade is spinning properly.
How to Hammer
•
Wear safety goggles when hammering to protect eyes from mishit nails.
•
Use your non-hammering hand to hold the nail in place. Tap gently tapping on the nail to get a hole going. After the nail is set and will stand on its own, move your non-hammering hand clear.
•
Don’t “choke up” on the hammer. Hold the hammer firmly, close to the end of the handle.
•
Don’t try to “muscle in” a nail. Grip the hammer firmly, keep your wrist locked, and let gravity do most
of the work. This will help you not tire out as quickly.
•
When you strike the nail, your elbow should be bent at a 90° angle.
•
Keep fingers clear and keep your eye on the nail’s head! Try to hit the head squarely and try to avoid the
hammerhead “glancing” off the nail as you strike.
•
We highly recommend wearing safety goggles when hammering. Sometimes the nail or pieces of the nail
may suddenly fly up into your eye.
•
If you are having hard time driving nails (i.e. they keep bending), considering drilling a “pilot hole” first.
Use a drill bit whose diameter is slightly smaller than that of the nail, and drill a small hole to help guide
the nail.
•
There may be times when it is necessary to drive nails at angle, a technique called “toe-nailing.” To begin a toenail, tap a nail gently into the wood at a 90° angle with the wood. Once you have a hole started,
remove the nail, then reposition it in the same hole, at the appropriate angle.
•
When pulling nails, it helps to put a small block underneath the hammer before you pull. This added leverage makes the job much easier.
46 - CONSTRUCTION SKILLS
Carolina Cross Connection Project Manual
Basic Construction Skills
How to Install Carriage Bolts
1.
Before drilling a hole for the carriage bolt, always drive a few nails into whatever you’re drilling to secure
all boards. This will make drilling a lot easier and more accurate.
2.
Have a few people hold the boards, so that the structure doesn’t jump around while drilling. Position the
boards and drill through them both. This is much better than trying to drill each board separately, as you
will never get the holes lined up perfectly.
3.
Try to drill through the frame (i.e. 2x6) and THEN through the post, if possible. This is easier and more
accurate than drilling through the post and then the frame.
4.
Remember that sometimes you will have two bolts in same general area (e.g. corner posts). If this the
case, make sure you bore a “high” hole and a “low” hole (e.g. roughly 1” from the edge of the board) so
that the bolts do not cross paths with each other.
5. When you have drilled all the way through, keep the drill running, and ream the hole a bit to get loose
particles out. Use the reverse button to pull the bit back out, if your drill has that feature.
6. Whenever possible, try to insert the bolt such that the “head” of the bolt is on the outside of a structure,
and the “nut & washer end” is on the inside of the structure. This way, a person walking by the structure
is less likely to get clothes hung up or get cut on the bolt.
7. Put the washer on, then the nut. Hand-tighten the nut as far as you can, then use a crescent or socket
wrench to finish tightening. Tighten the nut so that the washer is flush with the board, if not a slightly
indented into the wood.
Carolina Cross Connection Project Manual
CONSTRUCTION SKILLS - 47
Basic Construction Skills
8. If for some reason you have to remove a bolt, DO NOT hammer against the threaded end! This will damage the threads, and it will be impossible to reuse the bolt.
9. Have someone re-check that all bolts are tightened before you complete the project!
How to Install Joist Hangers
1.
Some people like to attach joist hangers first and
then drop the joist into them. If possible, try to
avoid this method of attaching joist hangers BEFORE
anchoring joists. This can cause joists to not be
flush, gaps between boards, and weakened structural stability. Instead, secure the joist first, THEN
attach the hanger.
2.
Hold up the joist where it needs to be, flush with
the header or band. Nail through the header or
band into the end of the joist.
3.
Place a joist hanger up under and around the joist.
Hold a hanger in your hand and squeeze the open
end of the “U” slightly together. Slip the hanger
under the joist, and if need be, tap it up into place
a hammer. Make sure to hold the bottom of the
hanger tight to the bottom of the floor joist - very
important!
4.
Most joist hangers have a small prong that, when
driven in by a hammer, will help hold the hanger in
place while you drive the nails and make it easier to
get a tight fit. Feel free to drive these prongs if it
helps you, but know that it is not necessary.
5.
Nail the first nail as shown below with a JOIST
HANGER NAIL. Tap the bottom of the hanger again
to snug it up and nail the second nail. Continue to nail the other “like kind” nails, then nail the nails
marked last.
6.
Make sure you install joist hangers at every end of each joist. Make sure the hangers are tight; they are
critical to the strength of the structure.
48 - CONSTRUCTION SKILLS
Carolina Cross Connection Project Manual
Basic Construction Skills
How to Attach Wood to Concrete
When you have to anchor wood to concrete or masonry, first ask yourself if there is another way! Attaching wood
to masonry can be difficult, and is usually not the best means for making structures sturdy. If you do indeed need
to anchor something to concrete, such as posts, use Tapcons and brackets. Tapcons resemble a screw and have
different kinds of heads, like a Phillips or hex head. Always use Tapcons with HEX heads. It is recommended Tapcons are long enough to embed about 1 1/2” through the masonry. Angle brackets are used to attach Tapcons to
posts or other boards. Use 3x3 brackets minimum. Both of these items these are usually sold in the hardware
department.
How to Find Out if Something is Square...Without a Square
The “3-4-5 Triangle” is a way to check whether a large angle is square when you don’t have a speed or framing
square or if you are squaring up string. Measure three feet along one side, four feet along the other. Now measure the diagonal distance between these two points. If the diagonal distance is five feet, if the corner is square.
How to Set Footers
•
Postholes should be dug 20” deep if possible. 12” deep absolute minimum! Postholes should be backfilled with water, THEN pour in sacrete
(approximately 40 lbs per hole), mixing and tamping as you pour. If
sacrete is not available, use water, then dirt. If possible, it’s good for
posts to be resting on a solid footing in the bottom of the hole, such as
brick, rocks, or gravel. Always be aware of where you’re digging —
avoid hitting cable, telephone, water, or septic lines at all costs!
•
Cap blocks are easy to lay down. They can be sitting directly on top of
the ground or partially buried. The important thing is to try to make
sure the block is as level as possible, both along its width and length.
Some digging/grading of the ground may need to take place to ensure
the block is level.
Carolina Cross Connection Project Manual
CONSTRUCTION SKILLS - 49
CCC Project Manual
FLOOR REPAIR
Project Components & How-To’s
Floor Repair
Common Materials
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
2x6 for Joists
4x8 Plywood for subfloor sheathing
4x8 Luan for tile backing
Scrap 2x6 for scabbing
Peel and Stick Tile
Joist Hangers
16d Nails
8d Nails
Flooring Specific Tools
•
•
•
Reciprocating Saw
Jig Saw
Linoleum Knife or Utility Knife
Common Measurements
•
•
Any new joist should be spaced 16” OC (On Center).
Any scab should extend 2 ft past the rotten/weak spot in the joist.
Floor Repair Warnings
•
BE WARY OF ALL FLOOR REPAIR PROJECTS, ESPECIALLY THOSE IN THE BATHROOM! Don’t get in over your
head! Floor repair is often like an iceberg: on the surface, it may not look like that much, but underneath, it can be a huge disaster waiting to happen. Do THOROUGH inspections before even deciding
whether or not to even embark on the project. Know when to say no.
•
Don’t get carried away! Don’t fix more than you have to.
•
NEVER JACK UP A FLOOR! Raising a floor with a jack is extremely dangerous to campers, staff, and homeowners.
•
Avoid MAJOR structural floor repairs! Very large projects can be
overwhelming, extremely timeconsuming, and often dangerous for
the average CMG. Only do small
floor patches that can be fixed in 12 days.
•
Many floor problems occur in the
bathroom. If you are addressing a
floor in the bathroom, EXERCISE
EXTREME CAUTION that you do not
damage any of the plumbing, either
in the bathroom itself or under the
floor! Many homes CCC works for
may very old, rusty, or deteriorating
plumbing. We do not have the expertise to fix plumbing problems, nor the money to pay someone to fix them!
•
Before addressing a bathroom floor, ALWAYS locate the water cutoff for the house, just in case, and make
sure it works before starting the project. Turn the valve off and then turn on the COLD water at the
kitchen sink. If the water flow begins to drop off after a few moments, then you know the cutoff valve
works. With the COLD water still on at the kitchen sink slowly turn the water back on for the house. You
may not need to disconnect any water lines to make the floor repair, but in case you accidentally hit a
hidden water line ,you need to know where the whole house cut off valve is located.
52 - FLOOR REPAIR
Carolina Cross Connection Project Manual
Floor Repair
Floor Components: Framing System
•
Floor Joists
Floor joists are the structural members which create the framework for the subfloor. These members
support the “load” (weight) of the floor.
Joists are in turn supported by larger beams, girders, posts, bearing walls or foundation.
Use southern yellow pine boards, treated or untreated, to repair joists.
•
Floor Joist Spacing
The standard spacing for floor joists in “stick-built homes” (i.e. non-mobile homes) is 16” on center.
In other words the open space between two floor joists (inside-to-inside) is approximately 14 ½”.
Often in mobile homes the floor joists are 24” on center.
You may find other situations where floor joists are spaced differently, or where each joist is randomly spaced from the others! To be safe, any of our NEW construction should have joists spaced 16”
on center.
•
Floor Joist Span: This is the length-wise distance that a floor joist can travel without being held up by
some other means of support, such as a beam, post, wall, footer, etc. The longer the span is, the greater
the dimensions that the floor joist boards must be. The bullet points below give the minimum dimension
of a floor joist in relation to its span. Remember, if you can shorten spans by adding beams or posts, you
can downsize to smaller-dimension joist boards, thereby decreasing cost.
•
Span
Span
Span
Span
Span
less than 8’ — must use at least 2x6 boards for joists.
between 8’ and 10’ — must use at least 2x8 boards for joists.
between 10’ and 12’ — must use at least 2x10 boards for joists.
between 12’ and 14’ — must use at least 2x12 boards for joists.
greater than 14’ — must be supported in center by beam, post, etc.
Band (aka Exterior Joist, Exterior Band, Rim Joist)
The band is an exterior structural member which carries the load of the exterior wall and allows floor
joists to be attached to it at a 90° angle. Think of a square with the perimeter being the band.
Use southern yellow pine boards (treated, if in contact with the ground at any point) to repair.
•
Foundation
The foundation refers to the materials that transfer the load of the floor to the ground.
Pre-existing structures may have all kinds of foundational support, such as posts, bricks, cinder
Carolina Cross Connection Project Manual
FLOOR REPAIR - 53
Floor Repair
blocks, blocks of wood, etc. CCC does not have the expertise does not have the expertise or time to
install entire new foundations, however, we can provide small intermittent ground-to-floor supports
for small floor repair projects. For such purposes, you should use 4x4 or 4x6 posts and cap blocks.
Posts must rest on top of a level 4”x8”x16” masonry cap block. Bolt beams and/or joists to the post
using ½” x 6” carriage bolts (do not necessarily need to be galvanized), along with washer and nut.
Floor Components: Sheathing
Upon the floor’s framing system (joists, bands, posts, etc.) rest several layers of sheathing. When you embark on
a floor project, it is important to make sure that the sum thickness of these layers will be such that the finish surface of the “new” floor is level with the finish surface of the “old” floor. In other words, the new floor should be
as thick as the old floor, so make sure these layers accomplish this.
•
Subfloor
The subfloor rests upon the floor joists and underneath the underlayment. The subfloor offers structural integrity to the floor system.
Subflooring should run perpendicular to floor joists. When replacing subflooring, new panels should
span at least three floor joists.
Plywood panels (comprised of thin, glued-together layers of wood) are most often used for subflooring, and are the most sturdy option. If the floor joists are spaced 16” on center or less, use plywood
that is at least 7/16” thick. If the floor joists are spaced MORE than 16” on center, use plywood that
is at least 5/8” thick.
OSB panels (comprised of glued-together chips and fragments of wood) may also be used for subflooring, though they do not offer as strong a support as plywood. If the floor joists are spaced 16” on
center or less, you can use OSB that is at least ¾” thick to repair subfloor. If the floor joists are
spaced MORE than 16” on center, you CANNOT use OSB panels to repair subfloor.
•
Underlayment
Underlayment rests upon the subfloor.
Underlayment provides a clean, smooth surface for attaching the finish floor (e.g. vinyl tiles).
Lauan (pronounced “LEW-on”) is a very thin type of paneling and is the most common and cheapest
form of underlayment. Lauan is ¼” thick, fine grain plywood that comes in 4’x 8’ sheets.
Lauan should ALWAYS be used on top of plywood or OSB subflooring.
54 - FLOOR REPAIR
Carolina Cross Connection Project Manual
Floor Repair
•
Floor Covering
Floors can be covered with any
number of surfaces, including carpet, linoleum, VCT and ceramic
tiles.
Peel-and-Stick tiles are selfadhesive vinyl tiles that are much
easier, cleaner, and quicker for a
CMG to manage than sheet vinyl.
They are manufactured to exact
dimensions and thickness to give
the finished floor a seamless, uniform appearance. DO NOT DO
VINYL SHEETING OR VINYL TILES
THAT REQUIRE A SPREAD-ON ADHESIVE!!! These are too difficult
for us to work with.
VCT (Vinyl Composition Tile) - Tiles are applied to a smooth, leveled sub-floor using a specially formulated vinyl adhesive that remains tacky but does not completely dry. CCC is transitioning to a VCT tile
since they are glued down and will stick much better than peel-and-stick tiles.
Carolina Cross Connection Project Manual
FLOOR REPAIR - 55
Floor Repair
Floor Components: Finishing Touches
Repairs done to the framing and/or sheathing of a floor may be sufficient for a floor repair project to be considered “complete.” In some cases, however, there are still a few other components that may need to be installed.
These are considered “luxury items,” so use your best judgment when deciding if they are necessary or not.
•
Threshold (aka Transition): If there is a wide gap and/or a great different in floor levels between the new
floor you have installed and the floor of another room, you may need install a threshold strip in the doorway adjoining the two rooms. Thresholds/transitions come in many different varieties, sizes, and materials, so it’s best to go to a home improvement store to determine what is needed. Make sure you make
note of the width of the doorway, the space of the gap or floor-level-difference, and what the two finish
floors in each room are (e.g. tile, carpet, etc.). Most thresholds we use are made of aluminum and are
installed with nails. In some cases, the old thresholds may be salvaged and reused, so try to do so before
purchasing a new one.
•
Molding: Upon completion of tiling a floor, you may notice that there are some gaps between the finished
floor and the walls. These gaps can be covered with molding, installed with finish nails, and sealed with
caulk. The two types of molding that can used for this purpose are called “Shoe Molding” and “Quarter
Round Molding.” In some rare cases, the old molding may be salvaged, but most often, it will crack and
splinter when you try to remove it.
•
Caulk: Can be used to seal molding, and around fixtures such as toilets, tubs, and sinks. ABSOLUTELY
necessary to use if you are pulling up and reinstalling a toilet. Use white latex or “tub and tile” caulk.
How to Repair a Floor: Demolition
When embarking on a floor repair project, it is important to determine how much damage exists in all levels of
the flooring system. If damage is extensive, you should probably not embark on this project! If the damage is
feasible to fix, determine how much demolition of the old floor must be done. Occasionally, you may find that
little to no demolition actually needs to occur. For situations such as these, refer to the “Can the Floor Be Overlaid?” section above. For now, we will assume the worst: that the old floor is damaged at all levels. Therefore,
we must begin by carefully removing the old, damaged sections of the floor.
1.
Move furniture/appliances to another room in the house.
2.
Carefully remove the layers of floor sheathing. Do not remove linoleum unless cleared to do so by the
CCC staff/administration. Use pry bars, wrecking bars, hammers, sledgehammers, etc. for this purpose.
Try to avoid removing more of the floor than you have to. Be VERY careful not to disturb areas of the
floor that do not need repairs, walls, fixtures, and plumbing. You do not want to create MORE damage by
your demolition, especially in the house’s plumbing system, which you will likely find is very old and brittle.
3.
Whenever possible, do NOT remove old floor joists, even if they are rotten. These framing members,
however rotten they may be, are what is currently holding up the floor and possibly the entire house!
Sometimes floor joists may disintegrate as you remove old sheathing, but as much as possible, try to leave
old joists undisturbed.
4.
The goal is to create a clean hole in the floor sheathing that is (a) rectangular and (b) that “breaks” in
the middle of joists. You do not want the edges of the new subfloor sheathing to “hang” above open to
space, but to rest securely on floor joists. Use a circular saw and reciprocating saw for the purpose.
Wear safety goggles and dust mask, as this process will send a lot splinters flying! See diagram below for
help.
56 - FLOOR REPAIR
Carolina Cross Connection Project Manual
Floor Repair
5. Make sure the tops of the joists are as debris-free as possible. Remove (or just drive in) any protruding
nails, screws, or staples.
Carolina Cross Connection Project Manual
FLOOR REPAIR - 57
Floor Repair
How to Repair a Floor: Reinforcing and “Scabbing” the Frame
Small areas of damage to floor framing can be repaired using a method called “scabbing,” in which you will add
structurally sound wood to damaged floor joists without removing the damaged joists. Scabbing is a little like
splinting a broken bone. We don’t have the expertise or the time to “heal” it completely; we are just applying a
split to support, immobilize, and reinforce the broken bone (or joist) to prevent more damage being done.
1.
Joists are no good unless they are supported by a good foundation (i.e. a structure that transfers the load
of the joists to the ground). If the there is not a good foundation for joists, new or old, create one using
cap blocks, posts, and beams (bolted to posts, joists resting on top). Again, try to avoid disturbing the old
foundation or joists.
2.
Measure the dimensions of the damaged joist and determine if it is a 2x6, 2x8, etc. Try to use the same
dimensions for new joist scabs.
3.
Determine the length of the damage done to the floor joist. The new scab should measure 4’ past the
damage area in both directions. Measure four feet in each direction from the edge of the floor joist damage and mark these two points on the existing floor joist. Then measure the distance between these two
points to determine the length needed for the new joist scab.
4.
Cut a new board for the joist scab. Place the new joist scab beside the existing floor joist so that the
damaged area is in the center.
5.
Nail the new board onto the old floor joist using a dozen or so well spaced 16d nails or decking screws.
Nails do not need to be galvanized.
6. Nail the new board onto the old floor
joist using a dozen or so well spaced
16d nails or decking screws. Nails do
not need to be galvanized.
7. Once you have reinforced the framing
using new foundational members, joist
scabs, etc., it’s a good idea to add
some small blocks running in between
joists for the edges of subflooring to
rest on. Again, use the same dimensions as the joists for these block pieces. See diagram below for help.
58 - FLOOR REPAIR
Carolina Cross Connection Project Manual
Floor Repair
How to Repair a Floor:
Constructing a “Porch”
Depending on how severe the floor framing is damaged and how much space you have to work with, you may want
to consider actually building a small, interior “porch” frame. Simply use cap blocks, posts, joists, bolts, and joist
hangers to build a small box frame to create a completely new framing system for the floor. Refer to the
“Porches” section of this manual for more information on how to construct a porch, and adapt plans to fit inside
the space you’re working with. Remember to create a frame that accounts for the thickness of the new subfloor,
underlayment and tiles, so that the new floor patch is level with the old floor.
How to Repair a Floor: Installing Subfloor & Lauan
1.
Make sure the edges of any old and newly-installed subflooring “breaks” over the center of joists. If not,
correct this problem.
2.
Install plywood, measured and cut to fit the rectangular hole. Use a circular saw with a plywood blade to
cut plywood panels. Adjust the saw blade depth so that the blade is shallow enough to just through the
panel — this helps the blade to last longer and for cuts to be more accurate.
3.
Make sure the thickness of the plywood + lauan will match the thickness of the old floor sheathing. Use a
jigsaw to cut any holes needed to fit around appliances, to provide any necessary openings for A/C vents,
etc.
4.
It is best to use screws, rather than nails, to attach a new layer of plywood (nails tend to back themselves
out of a floor over time). Screws do not need to be galvanized. Snap chalk lines on the plywood as a
guide for where the joists underneath are, and screw into the joists. Screws should be spaced roughly
12”-18” apart. Screw heads should be flush with the subfloor (i.e. not sticking up).
5.
Make sure floor panels are butted up against each other as much as possible, with only minimal gaps.
Panels should NEVER overlap!
6.
Once all of the plywood is installed, inspect the subfloor. Sweep and clean out all debris that may have
acquired on the subfloor. Make sure all screw heads have been driven flush to the wood. The subfloor
must be very smooth before installing the next layer (i.e. underlayment, or lauan).
7.
Now install the lauan underlayment. Measure and cut lauan to fit the floor space of the entire room,
again, creating holes for fixtures and vents.
8.
Use coarse thread sheetrock screws 1/4” to attach lauan. These screws need only penetrate the lauan
and subfloor and do not necessarily have to penetrate the floor joists below. Screws should be spaced no
farther than about 12” in both directions. Screw heads MUST be sunk perfectly flush with the lauan! If
they are sticking up at all, you will create lumps, holes, and tears in the tiles.
Carolina Cross Connection Project Manual
FLOOR REPAIR - 59
Floor Repair
How to Repair a Floor: Installing VCT
1.
Inspect the lauan, making sure it is clean, dry, and smooth. Drive all nail heads or screw heads flush with
the surface of the lauan (protrusions like these can appear as bumps in the tiles). Use a putty knife and
pull it over nails and screws. If you hear a clicking sound, then you need to drive down the nail or tighten
the screw. Patch any deep holes, cracks or gouges with wood putty. Remove all furniture, appliances,
and all other moveable objects from the room. If the room contains major appliances or furniture, use
“skidder tiles” to move appliances around as needed. These are tiles that you lay face-down, and very
carefully, you set the legs of the large object you are moving. These “skidders” will keep you from having to move the object too far, and prevent scratching on the new tile surface.
2.
Create guidelines for the tiles on the subfloor. Use a tape measure to determine the middle of all 4 walls
in the room. Snap 2 chalk lines from each of the opposite walls. Using a square, check that the lines are
perpendicular, or use the 3-4-5 triangle rule (refer to the Basic Construction Skills section). If not, you
may need to re-snap one of the lines to achieve 90 degrees at the intersection. By arranging the tiles from
the middle like this, you will ensure the border tiles (tiles that run against the walls) will all be cut to the
same width.
3.
Using the guidelines, do a "dry run" (i.e. lay down the tiles without adhesive to see how they fit). Start at
the intersection, work outward from the middle, and lay them along the lines until you reach the 4 walls.
The amount remaining for border tiles should be the same on opposite sides of the room. If you find the
borders are not the same, you should adjust one or both of the lines as needed. If your tiles have a directional arrow on the back, make sure to lay all tiles with the arrows pointing in the same direction.
4. After you have made adjustments and are satisfied with you dry run, you are ready to install the “field
tiles,” the full pieces that do not run against any of the walls. Use a 1/8” V-notch trowel to spread the
adhesive. Spread in small areas to be sure you don’t get too far ahead with the glue. Start at the intersection of the two guidelines. Lay the tiles down in squares of nine (3 rows of 3). Work outward from the
middle. The tile can't be moved but a small amount once lay it down, so make sure you line it up correctly before placing on the sub-floor. Work your way around the room until all the full, field tiles are in
place. Press the tiles down using a rolling pin or have someone sit on an extra tile to press tiles firmly into
place.
60 - FLOOR REPAIR
Carolina Cross Connection Project Manual
Floor Repair
5. To install the border tiles, those that touch the walls, you will probably need to mark and cut them to fit.
Refer to the diagram below. Use a pencil or non-permanent pen to mark tiles. Lay a tile (TILE A) squarely
over the last full tile closest to the wall (TILE B). Take another full tile (TILE C) and place it flush against
the wall with the edges lined up with the TILE A. Make a line across TILE A. This is the line you need to
cut. When make cuts, make sure you put a piece of scrap tile, cardboard, scrap wood, magazine, or some
other material underneath the tile you’re cutting. Make sure you don’t cut over the new tile you’ve already laid down! Line up a straight edge along the marked line, such as a framing square. Use several
passes with a utility knife to score the tile then snap it off. Be careful not to cut yourself!
6. Install border tiles, being mindful to keep with the pattern of the rest of the tiles.
7. For corners, use a variation on the technique you used for straight borders. Place the tile (TILE D) on one
side of the corner exactly over a full tile. Use another tile (TILE E) to mark your cut line. Move the TILE D
over to the other side of the corner and repeat this process. This should give you a correct profile of the
corner for cutting. Make sure you cut out the correct part of the tile.
8. Attach molding (shoe or quarter round) and threshold/transition, if necessary.
Carolina Cross Connection Project Manual
FLOOR REPAIR - 61
Floor Repair
9. Sweep off the floor. Caulk in the seams between tiles, and then wipe the excess off with a damp sponge.
10. CAREFULLY replace furniture and appliances, using upside-down skidder tiles. Be careful not to scratch or
scuff the new floor. Remind homeowner that the floor should not be washed for 5 days to give the tile
adhesive time to set.
How to Remove and Reinstall a Toilet
1.
If you are doing floor repair
in a bathroom, you will
likely have to pull the toilet. Before you begin, try
to get into the crawl space
to assess the situation from
underneath, if you haven’t
already. Look for the pipes
that are attached to the
toilet. Try to determine
how much of the floor is
rotten around those pipes
and needs to be replaced
before setting a new toilet.
Have someone flush and see
if any of the pipes themselves are leaking. If they
are, do NOT touch this project! All plumbing needs to
be working properly before
we will do any repairs.
2.
Because you are dealing with a potentially very unhealthy area, thoroughly clean the toilet, all connected
hardware, and all areas around with bleach solution. Wear rubber gloves and safety goggles! Use one of
the following disinfecting solutions (a) 1 tablespoon liquid bleach per 1 gallon water OR (b) 1 teaspoon
liquid bleach per 1 quart water OR (c) ½ teaspoon liquid bleach per 1 pint water.
3.
Allow surfaces to air dry for 2 minutes (i.e. no rinsing).
4.
Now clean the inside of the toilet bowl. Flush toilet, then add 1 cup liquid bleach to bowl. Brush the entire bowl. Let stand for 10 minutes, then flush again.
5.
Before removing a toilet, turn the water valve off (clockwise). This valve is protruding from the wall to
the lower left or right of the toilet. Usually the valve has a handle,
but if it does not, use a wrench, pliers or vice grips.
6.
Flush the toilet twice so that all the water in the tank empties out.
Plunge out the rest of the water in bowl with a plunger.
7.
There is a tube running from the water valve up to the tank, called
the supply line. Remove the end of the supply line that is connected
to the tank by untwisting. While you are doing this, place a bucket
underneath to catch any excess water left over in the tank.
8.
Remove the nuts connecting the toilet to the bolts in the floor, using
a wrench, pliers, or vice grips. Sometimes they sometimes have plastic covers that you can remove by hand first. Sometimes the nuts and
62 - FLOOR REPAIR
Carolina Cross Connection Project Manual
Carolina Cross Connection Project Manual
bolts may be so corroded that you will need a hacksaw to cut them. If so, you will have to replace this
hardware.
9.
Now lift the toilet! Have towels ready; you WILL spill water. Set the toilet in the bathtub while you continue to work or take it outside and hose it down. Use extreme caution not to break the porcelain, or the
toilet will be useless!
10. Scrape off the old wax ring using a putty knife. You will likely have to clean wax off the floor AND the
underside of the toilet. Clean with bleach, water, gloves, and goggles. Wash your hands thoroughly.
11. If needed, now is the time to repair the floor AND install new linoleum. Complete all necessary repairs to
the floor. Make sure that framing members and subfloor underneath the toilet are VERY sturdy.
12. Since you have removed the toilet, it will be necessary to install a new wax ring (these are what interface
the toilet with the “flange”). Hopefully you have been provided with a wax-free bowl gasket, which is
much easier to work with than a wax ring. Wax-free bowl gaskets are cheap, can be purchased at most
any home improvement store, and are worth every penny! Follow the directions that come with the bowl
gasket, and install it. If you do not have a wax-free bowl gasket, you will have to install a new wax ring.
To do this, make sure the flange (the metal or plastic ring on the floor that bolts to the toilet) is in its
proper place. Install the new wax ring onto the flange, and ensure that you have a good seal.
13. Set the toilet back in place, making sure the bolts in the floor fit back in their holes. Press the toilet
down firmly but gently to ensure a good seal.
14. If the toilet does not sit flat on the floor or wobbles, you may need to shim it. Use whatever thin scrap
wood is necessary to stop the toilet from rocking (i.e. a piece of a yardstick, etc.). Slide the shim in
place and secure with nails.
15. Replace and tighten nuts to the floor bolts. Again, be careful you not to bust the porcelain as you tighten
bolts, or the toilet WILL leak and you WILL need to replace it with a new one!
16. Once the toilet has a good seal and does not wobble, replace the water line, turn on the water valve, and
flush to ensure that there are no leaks anywhere. If the toilet leaks, you will need to make adjustments
in order to get a better seal.
17. Once the toilet has a good seal, clean up any water on the floor. Once it is dry, caulk with white latex
caulk around the base of the toilet. This creates both a seal and additional adhesion between the toilet
and the floor. Do not caulk until you are positive there are no leaks! Otherwise, you are simply perpetuating the problem of a rotting floor underneath the toilet.
18. Wash your hands, and then smooth out the
caulk around the base with your finger.
Carolina Cross Connection Project Manual
63
Carolina Cross Connection Project Manual
64
Carolina Cross Connection Project Manual
CCC Project Manual
GUTTERS
Project Components & How-To’s
Gutters
Gutter Components
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Gutter: Long metal trough that channels water away from the roof and home. Comes in 10’ lengths.
Slip Joint Connector: A connector used to connect any joints of guttering. (not pictured)
End Caps: These are used to cap off the ends of gutters. There are two different end caps for both the
left and right ends of a gutter. Make sure you get the correct cap for the correct end!
End Gutter Piece: A specialized gutter trough with an opening where the downspout will go.
Outside Corner: A trough with a 90° angle, used for an “outside turn” in the gutter system.
Inside Corner: A trough with a 90° angle, used for an “inside turn” in the gutter system.
Fascia Bracket: A bracket used to hold gutter to the fascia board. (not pictured)
Spikes & Sleeves: Used to hold gutter to the house. (not pictured)
Hanger/Strap: Connects to the roof, underneath shingles, to hold the gutter. For our purposes, try to
avoid using these, in favor of spikes/sleeves. (not pictured)
Downspout: The pipe that channels water from the gutter towards the ground. Comes in 10’ lengths.
Elbow, STYLE A: Used to divert downspout inward or outward from the wall. Usually use two of these to
connect the gutter to the downspout.
Elbow, STYLE B: Used to diver downspout to the left or right along the wall. In most cases, you won’t
need style B elbows.
Downspout Connector: Used to secure the downspout to the siding of the home. (not pictured)
Shoe: An elbow used at the bottom of the downspout to direct water away from the foundation of the
home. (not pictured)
Tips for Guttering
Guttering should be be attached on a very slight slope, so that water will flow downhill. Whenever possible,
guttering should be allowed a 1” drop for every 16’ feet of gutter length. Use a chalk line against the fascia
board to help establish a slopped line. It’s important to ensure that water is diverted away from the foundation
of the house when guttering. If water is allowed to collect, it could do damage to the foundation of the home.
Once installed, run water on the roof, down to gutters, to ensure that water is traveling as it should.
66 - GUTTERS
Carolina Cross Connection Project Manual
CCC Project Manual
HANDRAILS
Project Components & How-To’s
Handrails
Common Materials
•
•
•
2x6 for Top Rail
2x4 for middle and bottom rails
3” decking screws
Handrail Tools
•
•
•
•
10” Spacer Block (optional)
Sandpaper
Miter Saw (optional)
Circular Saw
Common Measurements
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Finished rail height should be 36”
4x4 Posts should be cut 34 1/2” from finished decking height (35 1/2” from framing)
The bottom of the Bottom rail is 1.5” from decking
The bottom of the Middle rail is 11” from the top of the bottom rail (you can use 11” space block to set
this spacing)
Top rail overhangs the 4x4 posts that it attaches to by 1 1/2”
If possible top rail should extend past the 4x4 at bottom of ramp/steps by 12” in order to give the user a
rail until they are completely on flat ground.
Post hole depth should be 20” ideally but 12” minimum
General Handrail Info
•
To make structures sturdy and safe for the homeowner, CCC most often uses a three-rail system: a 2x6
top rail, 2x4 mid rail, and 2x4 bottom rail.
•
Two-rail systems (2x6 top, 2x4 bottom) may suffice for steps that aren’t too high off the ground, but keep
in mind the safety of the homeowner and family members (i.e. small children). Don’t build 1-rail systems; they are offer little safety and are therefore pointless! Remember: the point of having handrails is
for SAFETY.
•
WE DON’T DO PICKETS!
•
As a general rule, handrails should follow the same paths and patterns as the framing system of porches,
ramps, and steps.
•
Use 3” Decking Screws to attach handrails
Handrail Components
•
Cap Blocks
•
Use 4”x8”x16” masonry cap blocks.
The ground should be leveled beneath each cap block.
Posts sit directly on cap blocks and do not necessarily need additional anchoring.
Cap blocks can only be used if the posts can be bolted to the structure (e.g. porch, ramp, steps).
Postholes
If cap blocks are unavailable or the handrails cannot be connected to the structure (e.g. porch, ramp,
steps), you must dig postholes to sink posts into the ground.
20” deep if possible and resting on solid footing (e.g. brick, stone, gravel). 12” deep minimum!
68 - HANDRAILS
Carolina Cross Connection Project Manual
Handrails
•
Postholes should be backfilled with water & gravel concrete mix (no more than ½ bag per hole).
Posts
Spaced at least every 8’ (outside to outside) to support rails.
Posts should be cut at 34 ½” from top of the decking to top of the post (or at 36” from top of the
framing to the top of post).
If possible, bolt posts to other structures (e.g. porches, ramps, steps) with ½” x 6” galvanized carriage bolts, washers, and nuts for added stability. Keep bolt heads on the outside of the structure.
•
Top Rails
•
Use 2x6 boards only (top rails must bear loads, so 2x4s are not sufficient).
Top edge should be 1 ½” higher than top of post.
Whenever possible, top edges should be sanded well so they don’t splinter in someone’s hand.
If you are building steps or a ramp, the top rail should extend at least 12” out from the bottom post,
to give the homeowner a section to grab onto when ascending the steps/ramp.
Mid Rails
Use 2x4 boards.
There should be an 10” space between mid rail and bottom rail, and 10” between mid rail and top
rail. Most importantly, the mid rails should look good aesthetically, so don’t be afraid to deviate
slightly from the 10” if you need to.
•
Bottom Rails
Use 2x4 boards.
Should be 1 ½” from the top of decking to the bottom of the bottom rail. For greatest ease, you can
Carolina Cross Connection Project Manual
HANDRAILS - 69
Handrails
use two 2x4 scraps set flat, because these measure approximately 1 ½”. Set the blocks on the surface
of the deck, then set the 2x4 bottom rail on the blocks. Fasten the rail, then remove the blocks.
•
Fastening
All rails should be attached on their edges to the INSIDE of all posts.
Use 3” Decking Screws.
Use 2 screws at the ends of boards, and a 4-Screw “diamond pattern” where a rail intersects a board.
Building Sequence
1.
Complete all framing and decking for the project first, THEN install rails. Let posts run wild while you
frame and deck whatever structure you’re building (ramp, porch, etc.).
2.
When framing and decking are complete, measure and cut posts to proper height. You can either measure 34 ½” from the top of the decking, or 36” from the top of the frame.
3.
Install all LEVEL rails first: those rails that are for porches and landings. Install bottom rails first, then
top rails, then mid rails.
4.
Next, install all “slanted” rails, that is, rails for ramps and steps. Again, install bottom rails first, then
top rails, then mid rails.
5.
Cut any ends of rails so that they are flush with posts. On ramps or steps, always allow the top rail to
extend about 12” past the bottom-most post. This ensures that people will have something to grasp when
starting up the ramp or steps.
6.
Sand top rails so that they are smooth and splinter-free. If you have time and enough sandpaper, you can
sand the mid and bottom rails as well, but this is not always necessary.
70 - HANDRAILS
Carolina Cross Connection Project Manual
Handrails
Carolina Cross Connection Project Manual
HANDRAILS - 71
CCC Project Manual
PAINTING
How-To’s
Painting
Painting Stewardship
•
Watch out for drips! Be ready with damp cloths for any drips or mistakes you may make.
•
Be VERY careful around bricks, concrete, or any other masonry. Paint will not come off of these surfaces!
•
Avoid paint drying out! Keep lids on paint cans when you take a break for lunch.
•
Conserve paint and keep brushes from getting messy: only dip the bottom third of a paintbrush's bristles
into the paint. Wipe off the excess on the inner lip of the can.
How to Paint Exterior Surfaces
1.
Do prep work first.
a.
Replace any rotten wood on porches/steps.
b. If surface is very dirty (mildew, dust, dirt, etc.), use bleach and water to clean. Mildew will show
through any new paint you apply, so make sure you clean first! Stains and bare wood should be
sealed with primer if possible.
c.
When surfaces are clean and dry, caulk all open cracks around window and door frames, casing, fascia, soffits, columns, railings, etc.
d. Tie back or prune any trees or shrubs that touch the house. Cover plants, shrubs, walks, railings, and
other items with drop cloths.
e.
Mix paint thoroughly.
2. When painting, work from the top down. This will keep drips below finished areas and avoids putting a
ladder in wet paint.
3. Work horizontally as far as you can reach at each ladder position, but don’t overextend!
4. Coat the gutter first, then the fascia boards, and then the soffit boards.
5. Next paint the siding.
a.
Paint the bottom edge of siding first. Run a wet roller under a course of siding, and then follow with
a brush to smooth the paint where courses overlap.
b. Paint the siding face next. Spread paint with the roller on the face of the siding, going with wood
grain, keeping strokes long and level. Watch for drips on previously painted courses.
6. Try to paint exterior trim (windows casings, doors, door casings, shutters, etc.) last, but make sure you do
this early enough in the day so they can be closed at night!
7. Surfaces may appear blotchy and uneven as paint is drying. Let the paint dry completely before worrying.
If the dried paint is still blotchy, apply another coat.
8. Stop for the day at visual break points such as at a corner, door, or window to help avoid drying marks.
74 - PAINT
Carolina Cross Connection Project Manual
Painting
How to Paint Interior Surfaces
1.
Do prep work first.
a.
Mildew and smoke stains will show through any new paint you apply, so make sure you clean first with
water and bleach!
b. Remove light bulbs, fixture covers, receptacle cover plates, etc.
c.
Use drop cloths to cover furniture as well as the floor, carpeting and woodwork. Paintbrushes sometimes drip and rollers emit a fine spray of paint that settles over the room like dust. If possible,
move furnishings from the room completely.
d. Tape off the edges of windows and other surfaces you don’t want painted with painter’s tape.
e.
Mix paint thoroughly.
2. When you begin painting, work from the top down, starting with the ceiling. Then walls, moldings, and
floor. Make sure you use the correct paint for each job.
3. Use a paintbrush to paint ALL corners and edges. This is called “cutting in” the corners. Do this BEFORE
using a roller on the walls.
4. If you use a roller, load the roller and apply the paint in a large W shape, beginning in a corner near the
ceiling. Then roll back across the W to fill it in.
5. Try to apply at least two coats of paint, allowing the first coat to dry thoroughly before applying the second.
How to Paint Odd Surfaces
•
Masonry — When painting concrete block, brick, or stucco, you can expect to use more paint on the surface than on a wood surface. A rough-surface brush (7-8 inches wide) or a long nap roller are ideal for
applying latex paint.
•
Stucco — Stucco will definitely require multiple coats for even coverage. This coat will not require as
much paint to cover the same surface.
•
Metal — When painting metal that has never before been painted, prime it with a metal primer. If the
metal has been painted and paint film is tightly bonded to the metal, paint over the metal with regular
house paint. When painting metal, watch carefully for runs and sags in the fresh paint. Use a fairly dry
brush or roller when you paint metal surfaces.
Carolina Cross Connection Project Manual
PAINT - 75
Painting
Ladder Safety
• Place the ladder on a solid, even surface. Lock the spreaders into
place before ascending. Make sure stepladder legs are fully open.
•
Do not set up a ladder too steep or too shallow! To make sure you
have the correct angle, stand on the ground, with your feet just in
front of the feet of the ladder. Hold out your arms in front of you. If
you arms are touching the ladder, the angle is good. If your arms extend past the ladder, it is too steep. If your arms don’t reach the ladder, it is too shallow.
•
A common accident is when the ladder tips sideways due to reaching
out too far to one side, placing feet incorrectly, tripping and slipping,
defective/makeshift ladders, or failing to fold out the ladder properly.
•
Inspect the ladder to make sure it’s in good condition. Ensure that
rungs are solid and securely fitted in the stiles. Make sure the spreaders are in good shape and lock in place.
•
Stepladders are designed to be used in the open position.
•
Never climb onto the top two rungs of a stepladder. If you need to
climb higher, get a longer ladder.
•
When climbing up or down, always face the ladder and keep both
hands on the side rails.
•
Do not carry tools or materials with your hands while ascending or descending.
•
Do not reach too far in any direction. Climb down and reposition the ladder.
•
Never use a metal ladder around energized electrical circuits, even light fixtures. Take care to avoid
touching electrical wires when moving or setting up a ladder.
Paint Clean-up
1.
Make sure you do cleaning AWAY from natural water sources (creeks, streams, ponds).
2.
Wipe paint off the handle with a rag. Soak the brush with water.
3.
Use a wire brush to push the paint out of the bristles. Force the water/paint out of the brush squeezing
the bristles together.
4.
Shake the brush vigorously to force out any remaining paint and water.
5.
If you’re using oil-based paint, use mineral spirits or paint thinner to clean up. Use GOJO to clean skin.
DO NOT USE GASOLINE to clean skin or equipment.
Disposal
Disposing of unused paint is a MAJOR PAIN! Disposal methods vary by community. Most dumping sites will NOT
accept paint in liquid form. You can stir in kitty litter works to harden paint so it can be taken to a local dump.
But be warned: it takes a LOT of kitty litter and a LOT of time!
76 - PAINT
Carolina Cross Connection Project Manual
CCC Project Manual
PORCHES
Project Components & How-To’s
Porches
Common Materials
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
4x4 (posts)
2x6 (framework and top handrail)
2x4 (bottom handrails)
5/4 decking board (decking)
16d, 8d nails
1/2” x 6” and 1/2” x 8” carriage bolts
Quikrete
Porch Tools
•
•
•
•
1/2” Drill Bit
Miter Saw (Optional)
Circular Saw
Crescent Wrench
Common Measurements
•
•
•
•
Standard porch size 7’6” x 7’6” but we can build smaller
Joists spaced 16” on center
See handrail section for handrail specifics
See steps section for step specifics
Porch Components
•
The 7’6” Standard
Although porches can be built
of any dimensions, CCC has
developed a standard based on
7’6”.
This guide will teach you how
to build porches that are 7’6” x
7’6” (approx.). These dimensions make it easy to construct
porch sections using only 8’
long materials, which keeps
cost & waste to a minimum.
•
The Frame
Consists of two beams, which run
perpendicular to the house. 2x6
boards cut at 7’6” long.
Consists of joists which run parallel
to the house on top of the two
beams. 2x6 boards cut at 7’6”
long.
Each beam should be bolted to a
vertical 4x4 post at each corner,
using 6” x ½” carriage bolts, washers and nuts. Bolt heads should be
on outside of box; “nut end” of
bolts should be inside the box.
Each joist should be toe-nailed to
the beam that it sits on.
Joists should be 16” on center.
All framing boards should be attached “crowns up.” If a board is
bowed, the bow should face the
sky.
78 - PORCHES
Carolina Cross Connection Project Manual
Porches
(No part of the frame should span more than 8’. If it does, intermediate posts and beams are
needed.)
•
Posts
4x4 posts must support all corners of the porch. Most of the time, 8 foot long posts should be used.
Beams will be bolted to the posts.
Top of posts must be cut 35 1/2” from the frame, or about 34 ½” from the top of decking.
There should never a span of more than 8 feet between posts. If there is, you will need intermediate
posts and 2x6 beams bolted with 8” carriage bolts, and that gets complicated).
If you are planning to eventually build a porch roof over this porch, it’s a good idea to use the porch
posts as the same supports for the porch roof. In this case, you will need 4x4 posts longer than 8’.
•
Footers: Footer Blocks or Cap Blocks or Postholes
Footer Blocks: Use 2x6 scrap that is at least 18” long. These can be used instead of Cap Blocks described below. These have the same stability as cap block and are more economical due to the ability
to use scrap material.
Cap Blocks: Use 4”x8”x16” masonry cap blocks. The ground should be leveled beneath each cap
block. Posts sit directly on cap blocks and do not necessarily need additional anchoring.
Postholes: Postholes should 20” deep if possible and resting on solid footing (e.g. brick, rocks,
gravel). 12” deep minimum! Postholes should be backfilled with water, then sacrete (approximately
40 lbs per hole). If sacrete is not available, use water, then dirt. If possible, it’s good for posts to be
sitting on rocks in the bottom of the hole (just make sure the post is at least 12” beneath the ground).
Do not backfill posthole with rocks.
•
Height of Porch
The finish surface of the porch (the top of the decking) must be slightly lower than the bottom of the
doorway, allowing enough clearance for the door
to open and shut without scraping the porch.
A common mistake is to attach the framing such
that top of the joists are even with the bottom of
the door. Remember that decking will be attached ON TOP OF joists! Attach framing about 1
½” to 2” below the door to allow for decking!
•
Decking
2x6 boards are best, but 5/4 decking boards also
work just fine and are cheaper. Do not use 1x6
or 1x4 boards, as these are too flimsy.
Attach decking boards to joist using 8d nails. Use
two nails at each decking board/joist intersection.
Decking should run perpendicular to the house.
Attach with “cups down” (unless there is bark
showing).
Do not space decking boards! They should be as
tight together as possible, very little space in
between.
If you also plan to build steps or a ramp, it's better/easier to frame these up BEFORE you deck
the porch.
Carolina Cross Connection Project Manual
PORCHES - 79
Porches
•
Rails
Top Rails: Top rails should be 2x6 boards, fastened on edge on the inside of the posts. The tops of
these rails should sanded thoroughly to prevent
splinters! Top edge of top rails should be a minimum 1 ½” and a maximum of 2” above the top of
posts. Cups toward the post.
Mid Rails: 2x4 boards. There should be approximately 10” between mid rail and bottom rail, and
between mid rail and top rail.
Bottom Rails: 2x4 boards. Should be at least about
3 ½” above the decking. Best way to set the position of bottom rails is to use two 2x4 blocks set on
their edge at each end of the rail. This will give you
a gap of 3 ½”.
Rails should be fastened with 3” Exterior Decking
Screws.
•
Direction of Door Swing: The direction that the door
swings is important when deciding where steps or ramp
will ultimately be constructed. The door, when opened, must not block the steps/ramp.
•
Free-Standing?: CCC recommends building free-standing porches, and this manual will teach you how to
build them as such. There is usually no good reason to attach a porch to a house. If you are building a
porch at a mobile home, NEVER attach anything to the home (they’re supposed to be MOBILE)!
How to Build a Porch: Pre-Construction Cut List
At any time during the project, there may be CMG members needing something to do. Here is a list of boards
that can be cut at any point. Make sure you mark and/or keep track of which boards are which, so that you do
not use them for the wrong purpose. The rest of the how-to instructions in this manual will assume that you have
already cut the following boards.
1.
Saw eleven 2x6x8’ boards into eleven 90” (or 7’6”) long boards. These will serve as beams (2), joists (6),
and top rails (3).
2.
Saw six 2x4x8’ boards into six 90” (or 7’6”) long boards. These will serve as mid (3) and bottom rails (3).
3.
Saw seventeen 5/4 x6x8’ boards (or 2x6x8’ boards, depending on which you have on site) into seventeen
90” (or 7’6”) long boards. These will serve as decking boards.
4.
Do not pre-cut any 4x4 posts or boards for railings until told to do so throughout these instructions!
How to Build a Porch: Laying It Out
1.
Place four footer blocks or cap blocks on level ground as shown in the diagram. Again, these are measurements for a 7’6” x 7’6” porch. You may need to do some digging to ensure that footer blocks/cap
blocks are level, or as close as possible. The symbol
represents the center position for where the 4x4
posts will rest on each block.
80 - PORCHES
Carolina Cross Connection Project Manual
Porches
2. Next you will establish the level of the top of the framing. Note which is lower: the bottom of the door
swinging out or the underside of the threshold. Make a pencil mark on the residence 1 1/2” below whichever is lower (door or threshold). This is to help ensure that there will be enough space for the door to
swing open without scraping against the porch, once it is completed. For this example, we will assume
the door is lower.
3. Using a carpenter’s level (preferably a long one) and a pencil, transfer this mark over the two footer
blocks/cap blocks against the home’s foundation and make a new pencil mark. This mark establishing the
porch’s framing elevation, that is, all the topmost edge of all framing (joists and beams) will eventually be
level with this mark. We will call this the FRAMING LEVEL MARK.
Carolina Cross Connection Project Manual
PORCHES - 81
Porches
4. Facing the house, place a post on the back left footer block/cap block; tight to the house. Making sure the
post is plumb on all sides, transfer the FRAMING LEVEL MARK to the post, using a pencil and speed square.
Repeat the same process on the back right post. Do not cut any posts yet.
5. Next you will need to draw a second line on each post that is 5 1/2” below the first line. This will be your
beam mark.
6. Before you cut these posts, check to make sure the porch will indeed be level:
a.
Continue holding both posts in the correct position, and plumb in both directions.
b. Hold up a 2x6 board parallel to the house and touching both marks on the posts.
c.
82 - PORCHES
Place a level on top of the 2x6. Is the board level? If not, readjust the posts and/or footers. Make
sure to maintain the 1 1/2” distance below the bottom of the door or the threshold.
Carolina Cross Connection Project Manual
Porches
How to Build a Porch: Cutting the Back Posts
1. Lay the back posts on a set of saw bucks or other surface.
2. Mark the bottom of each post with an “B” to help you remember
which end is which. You may want to write a “B” on all four sides
of the post.
3. Transfer the FRAMING LEVEL MARK to all four sides of the post with
a speed square, if you haven’t done so already.
4.
Measure 35 1/2” from the transferred FRAMING LEVEL MARK toward
the top of the post, and again mark all four sides with help of a
speed square.
5.
Cut the post as shown with a circular saw or miter saw. You will
have to rotate and cut the post a few times due to the depth of the
saw blade.
6.
Follow the same procedure for the other BACK post.
7.
Do not cut the FRONT two posts yet! This will be done much later (when it is time to attach handrails).
Carolina Cross Connection Project Manual
PORCHES - 83
Porches
How to Build a Porch: Attaching Beams to the Back Posts
1.
For this board and every framing board hereafter, always make sure that all “crowns are up” before installing. That is, if boards are slightly bowed, make sure the bow points towards the sky. In order to
determine whether boards have a crown, look down the 2” edge and observe its curve. The crown is al
ways up so that when load bearing pressure is applied it will help to level the board and not create a
valley.
2. On a flat surface, lay down one of the marked 4x4 back posts.
3. Next, lay the marked 2x6x90” board on top of the post. Line it up so that…
a.
...the top edge of the 2x6 is lined up with the transferred FRAMING LEVEL MARK on the post.
b. ...the outside edge of the post is flush with the 2x6.
c.
...the angle formed by the boards is a true 90° angle. Check with a speed square. Adjust if necessary.
5. Once you have made the 90° angle, fasten the 2x6 to the post:
a.
Drive two common 16 penny galvanized nails in the locations shown.
b. Check one more to see if you still have a 90° angle with a speed square. Once the angle is square,
bore a hole between the two nails with the ½” or 5/8” drill bit.
c.
Take one ½” galvanized carriage bolt and use a hammer to drive it through the hole so the head is on
the 4x4 post side. Place the galvanized washer and nut on the thread side and tighten it flush to the
board (or even very slightly indented) with a wrench.
6. Repeat this entire process for the other back post, except this time, the post should be attached to the
OPPOSITE side of the 2x6. You should now have two structures resembling sideways “T’s”.
84 - PORCHES
Carolina Cross Connection Project Manual
Porches
How to Build a Porch: Attaching Beams to the Front Posts
1.
Raise up one of the “sideways T’s” and position the post on the back footer. Place the structure such
that there is about a one inch gap between one end of the beam and the side of the house. Make sure the
post is to the OUTSIDE and the beam is to the INSIDE of the soon-to-be-finished porch.
2.
With one person holding the post and one person holding the 2x6 beam, place a level on the beam. Hold
the beam level, or possibly sloping EVER SO SLIGHTLY AWAY FROM the house. This will help ensure that
rainwater does not flow toward the house and cause damage/rotting.
3.
When the beam is level, place a front post flush to the
outside end of the beam. Use another level to keep
the front post plumb. If the front footer block/cap
block needs to be repositioned, do that now.
4.
When everything is plumb and level, mark the front
post to record the beam’s location (i.e. transfer the
BEAM MARK to the front post).
5.
Attach the post to the joist as demonstrated earlier
(nails & bolt) to form an “H”. Make sure to continue
keeping the end of the beam flush with the post.
6. Repeat the process for the other side. You should now
have two “H’s” as pictured.
7. Hold both “H’s” in place and check that both posts are
still plumb and beams are level. Adjust as necessary.
Carolina Cross Connection Project Manual
PORCHES - 85
Porches
How to Build a Porch: Installing Joists
1.
Take a 2x6x90” to install as the first
perpendicular joist.
a.
Install a joist on each end of the
beams by sitting the joist on top of
the beams. Attach by toe-nailing
the joist to the beam.
b. Make sure that each joists is
square to the beams on each side
c.
Make sure the “crown” of the joist
is up.
2. VERY IMPORTANT STEP!: Before adding any more joists,
check to see if the porch is square. If the imaginary diagonal lines of the “box” are equal, then the porch is
square. So, measure the distance between opposite corners of the box. Measure the INSIDE corners of the box
(where the joists and beams intersect). If the diagonal
line measurements are the same, the porch is square. If
the diagonal line measurements are not the same, you
are out of square, and you must adjust the structure by
moving the front two posts together left or right. Replumb the posts if need be and pull diagonals again. If
the diagonal line measurements are within 1” of being
the same, you are in good shape.
3. Fill in the other joists nailing them like the previous ones
keeping all joist top edges flush. Joists should be 16
inches on center, using 16d nails to
fasten. That means that there should
be no more than 16 inches between the
center of one joist to the center of the
next joist. But here’s the thing: you
don’t have to measure from the exact
center of one board to the exact center of the next board. Instead, measure 16” from the FRONT side of one
board to the FRONT side of the next
board. See following the diagrams for
more detail.
86 - PORCHES
Carolina Cross Connection Project Manual
Porches
4. Now you will install blocking.
Joist blocking is 2x6 scrap cut to
go between each joist. Attach
the blocking
by nailing in
from the side of one joist and by
toe-nailing the other side.
How to Build a Porch: Attaching Decking Boards
1. Before the decking goes down, it’s
a good idea to determine where
the steps or ramp will be or to
even begin building them. The
steps/ramp may modify how decking is attached. For simplicity’s
sake, our example, will not include
steps or a ramp.
2. Take the straightest/nicest decking board and place it on the
framework. Make sure the decking
board is tight and flush to the
front post as indicated below. Do
not let the board protrude beyond
the post. Nail the first 2 nails into
the decking board as shown.
3. Continue to nail the decking board from front to back in sequence. When you reach the last 2 nails, the
decking board should be tight to the back post and about 1 inch from the house. Make sure there is a gap
between the house and the decking board but no greater than 1 inch. Make sure the head of each nail is
sunk into the board and not sticking up, to prevent opportunities for the homeowner to trip.
4.
Continue to fasten all the decking boards from left to right and use the same nailing sequence. Nailing
from the front to the back in order.
5.
DO NOT LEAVE GAPS OR PLACE SPACERS BETWEEN DECKING BOARDS. It is a common misconception is
that that spacing decking boards is helpful because decking boards will swell over time. In reality, decking boards will likely SHRINK over time, making the gaps even wider! Attach decking boards butted up
against each other tightly, leaving as minimal a gap as possible.
6.
You may have to rip the last decking board for it to fit in place. See the “Construction Skills & Info” section of this manual to learn how to safely rip a decking board.
Carolina Cross Connection Project Manual
PORCHES - 87
Porches
How to Build a Porch: Installing Rails
1. When possible, try to run rails to “mirror” the framing below. Keep all rails to the INSIDE of posts.
2. Begin with the bottom rail. Place two 2x4 scrap pieces, temporarily, on edge, one at a back post and one
at the corresponding front post. Lay a 2x4x90” on edge on top of the scrap. Make sure the crown is up
and the prettiest side towards the inside of the porch if possible. You should have a 3 ½” gap between
the bottom of the rail and the deck, provided by the scraps. Flush the end of the 2x4 to the front post,
similar to the decking. Hammer two evenly spaced 16d nails through the rail and into the front post.
Place a level on top of the rail to confirm “levelness”. There should be about a 1 inch gap between the
end of the rail and the house. Nail the other end of the rail in the same manner.
3. Now install a 2x6x90” for the top rail, so that its top edge is about 1 ½” above the top of each post.
Again, confirm levelness, flushness, etc. Drive two nails at each post.
4. For the mid rail, measure 10” up from the top of the bottom rail, and mark it on the back post. Do the
same on the front post. Hold a 2x4x90” so that its bottom edge is flush with both of these marks, and its
end is flush to the outside of the front post. Place a level on the 2x4 mid rail, hold it level, and drive
nails, two at each post.
5. Complete all the rails in the same manner. Sand the top rails. If you have enough time and sandpaper,
sand the mid and bottom rails as well.
88 - PORCHES
Carolina Cross Connection Project Manual
Porches
Minor Porch Repairs
Sometimes the old porch is in decent shape, but just needs some of its parts repaired. In situations like this, be
VERY thorough in the planning stages, and make sure that you are confident that REPAIRS ALONE will suffice, as
opposed to a complete REBUILD. Check all parts of the framing and support structures. If damage to these parts
is severe, you should tear down the old porch and start over. If you are confident that only a few repairs are
needed, here are some techniques you can use to help reinforce the old structures:
•
Installing Posts and Beams: If old frame is are in a bit rickety, you may consider installing new posts and
beams, which will reinforce the frame and take the load off the old posts. Beams may also help keep sagging joists from sagging any further (but if they’re sagging, they may need to be replaced as well).
•
Scabbing the Joists: Sometimes the porch damage may be limited to one or two joists that are simply
rotten in a small area. If this is the case, you can simply “scab” a new board to the old board. Make sure
the new “scab” board extends about 4’ past the rotten part of the old board, whenever possible. See the
“Floor Repair” section of this guide for more info on scabbing.
•
Replacing the Decking: To replace a small area of decking, first make sure the new boards you’re installing are the same thickness (and preferably the same width) as the pre-existing decking boards.
If possible, try to replace the entire rotten/damaged board. If you decide to only replace a small section, set the circular saw blade to the thickness of the decking board, and cut in the center of the
joist. See diagram for help.
Make sure that new decking boards “break” on the center of the joist below. That is, you do not want
a decking board to end “in the air,” the space between joists
Carolina Cross Connection Project Manual
PORCHES - 89
Porches
90 - PORCHES
Carolina Cross Connection Project Manual