1906 #9 Hat for Spring and Fall -- Chapeau de Demi-Saison
This is a pretty beguin [cap] is very easy to make and of little expense. You will be
able to thus give Bleuette a new hat for Easter Day. A legend says that one will be
content all the year, if the one is wearing a new hat on her head this day.
It is very simple to make: Have a piece of fabric cut in the shape of a scarf like
drawing #2. This drawing is not the size needed for Bleuette, that would have taken too
much space for us; but know that the line on the straight thread AB has 24 centimeters,
the line on the straight thread AC, also 24 centimeters, and the line CB which is the bias
has 35centimeters.
Now notice the dotted line which goes from line AB to the line AC; on your piece of
fabric, it will have to be drawn at 6 centimeters from the top of the angle, the two small
dotted lines at the right and at the left at the bottom, also at 6 centimeters from those
points. You will cut or fold back the fabric to the inside along these three lines, and then
you will have a scarf truncated similar to figure 3 and which will not measure any more
than 12 centimeters on each one of its truncated sides on the straight threads AB and AC,
and 23 centimeters at the bottom on its bias side. Then you will make pleats all around,
these pleats will be laid down next to each other on all the curved dotted line that you see
in figure 3; they will reduce the ones on the others, on the bias line XX, as we show in the
drawing. This line XX is the back of the hat.
When you sew these pleats at their edge, you have the fond [crown] of the beguin.
You will trim it all around with ruched ribbon or with two layered bubbles in silk muslin.
On the left; a large bow from where hangs a bunch of: mistletoe berries, currants, or
holly.
Let us add, now, some advice touching the art of the milliner. It is primarily different
from that of the linen maid and same with the dressmaker. The sewing itself sacrifices
finish and strength for very great lightness, and for the extreme speed necessary so that
the hat is not spoiled before being worn.
A hat well made must seem to have not been touched. You will say to me that it is
rather difficult to succeed at the first attempt, especially when one is, like you, all new
milliners’ apprentices.
There is however a means of making a hat without spoiling it, that is to make the
“maquette” [rough model]. One calls thus a rough draft be it either in paper, or be it in
similar fabric, like consistency, to that which one will employ definitively, but that one
can sacrifice; one will thus not hesitate to handle, to undo and to remake, until the perfect
reproduction of the model given by the image is obtained.
Thus, for this little beguin, you can start very well to make it with this light, and yet
ample and resistant paper, that is used to make artificial flowers [crepe paper].
You will sew with large backstitches; this movement is important, in fashion.
Naturally, these here are not the small backstitches lately employed for the seams of skirt
and blouse, but with large straight stitches which one values. They tighten marvelously
the hat edges.
Your fond of the beguin in this way made out of paper, you place it on Bleuette’s
head, releasing or tightening the folds according to what is needed. Then, you will cut
two small bands in flower paper and you will ruche them all around the hat, while trying
to approach as closely as possible the model.
Then, with a broader paper band, and opening your eyes quite large, you will try your
best to reproduce the raised bow which is extremely graceful and makes, itself alone, the
elegance of the beguin. You will start again until you have success, changing the paper
as it is necessary. To help you, I will tell you that this bow is made twice. First three
loops about equal height, that you tighten together at their base, by twisting the wire [or
thread], and that you keep in place on the beguin by some stitches; then a bow tie with
two loops and with two tails. You will cut one of these tails to replace it with the base of
the bunch of currants or with mistletoe.
When you have thus made well your rough paper model, it will be easy for you to start
again with the final material. If necessary, undo the model to give you your
measurements and length.
Translation copyright 2010 Deirdre Gawne. Not for sale. www.dressingbleuette.com