Winter Driving
Module C: Professional
Apprentice Driver Series
Version 4
Document Launch: Tuesday, April 1, 2008
Copyright ©2005 by CR England
First Edition, Version 4
Table of Contents
Book 7 Objectives
Plan Time for Learning
Improving Backing Skills
Activity – Practice Backing
Keep Track of Your Backing Practice
Activity – Watch the Highlights of Winter Driving
Preparing Your Vehicle for Winter Driving
Winter Wise Checklist
Air Dryer
Belts and Hoses
Brakes
Chains
Engine Coolant
Engine Exhaust Systems
Fuel Blends and Additives
Heaters
Lights and Reflectors
Tires
Trailer
Wiper Blades
Wiring and Air Lines
Preparing Yourself for Winter Driving
Trip Planning for Winter Success
Seeing It Coming
When the Snow Starts Coming Down
Knowing When to Stop
A Safe Place to Wait It Out
Stopping at Truck Stops
Pulling Over Safely
Operating in Severe Cold Conditions
Keep Moving (Only If Safe To Do So)
Additives and Fuel Blends
Fuel Update Messages
When to Leave the Truck Running
Getting Started After the Blizzard
Safe Winter Driving Techniques
Traction
Levels of Traction
Road Surface
Skidding
Speed
1
1
2
2
2
3
3
3
3
4
4
4
4
4
5
5
5
5
5
5
6
6
7
8
8
10
11
12
12
14
15
15
15
15
16
18
18
18
18
19
19
Double Momentum Shift
Managing Grades
Heading Downhill
Torque and Horsepower
Going Uphill
Ice Shift
Driving Grades in Winter − Quick Review
Hydroplaning
Managing Skids
All Wheel Skid
Trailer Axle Skid
Front Wheel Skid
Drive Axle Skid or Jackknife
Other Winter Driving Tips
Bridges and Overpasses
Effects of the Time of Day
Effects of the Angle of the Sun
Visibility
Time to Chain Up
About Chains
Chain Parts
Tools Needed
Procedure to Chain Up
Procedure to Remove Chains
Frequently Asked Questions about Chains
Keeping Winter Driving Skills Fresh
Winter Driving Kit Checklist
Personal Items
Tools
Parts & Supplies
Dangerous Grades
Book Quiz
Activity – Take a Quiz Using the Qualcomm
Quiz Questions
Module Completion Call
Activity – Make a Call to Your TC
Practice Activities for Winter Driving
Activity – Adjusting Following Distance
Activity – Practice Winter Driving Techniques for Grades
Activity – Identify Safe Havens
20
21
21
22
23
25
26
27
27
28
29
30
31
33
33
33
33
34
34
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37
38
41
41
44
44
44
45
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46
49
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49
53
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Professional Apprentice Driver Series – Module C
Book 7 Objectives
Completing all the activities in Book 7 will assist you in improving your
professional driving abilities by:
Š
Š
Š
Š
Practicing backing maneuvers.
Describing how to adjust speed and space for winter driving conditions.
Identifying safe places to pull over during extreme weather conditions.
Practicing winter driving techniques that are used for shifting on grades.
Plan Time for Learning
Done Plan to:
When
ƒ
Activity: Practice Backing
Driving
ƒ
Activity: Watch The Highlights of Winter
Driving videotape or DVD
On Duty
ƒ
Activity: Take a Quiz Using the Qualcomm
On Duty
ƒ
Activity: Make a Call to Your TC
On Duty
ƒ
Activity: Adjusting Following Distance
On Duty
ƒ
Activity: Practice Winter Driving Techniques
for Grades
Driving
ƒ
Activity: Identifying Safe Havens
Driving
1
Book 7
An effective learning approach for some apprentices is to first review the topics
and then complete the associated activities. This may take 4 hours and 30
minutes to complete.
Improving Backing Skills
Activity – Practice Backing
Note: For safety, your trainer will need to be with you at all times while
practicing backing. There are no exceptions to this rule.
If you need to review steps in backing, refer to Module A, Books 1 and 2.
Remember to spend time talking about backing with your trainer. You should
try to get at least 2 of the required 15 backing practice sessions to complete this
book.
What you should do:
Step 1
Step 2
For this activity, select a location to get one hour of backing
practice. It may take more than one location to complete an
hour of practice.
Keep track of your backing practice sessions in the table
provided.
Keep Track of Your Backing Practice
Date Start End Where did you get your backing practice?
Time Time
2
Professional Apprentice Driver Series - Module C
Step 3 What do you feel you still need to work on in your
backing? Set specific goals with your trainer.
___________________________________________________
___________________________________________________
Activity – Watch the Highlights of
Winter Driving
The driving techniques you use during the winter should be used year-around.
This video provides tips and safety measures for winter driving.
What you should do:
Step 1
Watch The Highlights of Winter Driving videotape or DVD.
Step 2
Take notes. You will be asked questions on the Qualcomm quiz
and during your check call.
Preparing Your Vehicle for Winter
Driving
Comment: Video shows this is on right
side and TOC is on left side.
Most of what it takes to drive safely in winter weather is respect for Mother
Nature and a light touch. The key is to maintain traction and have a steady pull
on your trailer. But the first thing you need to know to be ready for winter is
how to prepare your vehicle.
Take the following actions to prepare your vehicle for winter.
Comment: Video says to refer to pages
1 and 2 for this checklist
Winter Wise Checklist
Air Dryer
‰ Check your air dryer to make sure it is working properly.
‰ Have it serviced if you are getting more than a few drops of water when
you drain the air tanks.
3
Book 7
‰ If your vehicle has moisture controls such as spitter valves, check to be
sure that they are operating properly.
Belts and Hoses
‰ Check for roughness, cracking and excessive wear.
Brakes
‰ Check the condition and adjustment of all brakes.
‰ Get them serviced, if needed. (Note: Unevenly or incorrectly adjusted
brakes can cause a skid.)
Chains
‰ Make sure you have good, usable chains on your truck.
‰ Take them out and inspect them. (See section, Time to Chain Up for
details.)
‰ Make sure they fit, you have all the pieces, and that they are not
damaged.
‰ Replace them if necessary.
‰ Know how to put them on. Review the Chain-Up video and do a trial run
before the weather gets bad. Your trainer has a copy of this video.
Engine Coolant
‰ Check level of engine coolant frequently. Winter weather changes make
it tough on the cooling system.
Engine Exhaust Systems
‰ Make sure exhaust connections are tight. This is necessary to keep carbon
monoxide or other dangerous gases from leaking into the cab.
4
Professional Apprentice Driver Series - Module C
Fuel Blends and Additives
‰ Under normal winter conditions, do not use
fuel additives or blend fuel. Fuel stations
will sell fuel already blended for their
location during cold weather.
Heaters
‰ Service your auxiliary bunk heater (Webasto or Espar) and make sure it
is in good repair.
‰ Have a bunk warmer mattress pad that is in good working condition.
‰ Make sure mirror heaters are working
Lights and Reflectors
‰ Be sure your lights and reflectors are not dirty, muddy, salty, icy or
snowy.
‰ Check them often during your trip.
Tires
‰ Make sure all tires, including spare, have good tread. Drive and steer tires
should be NO LESS than 2/32” (4/32” for driving on snow). Trailer tires
should be no less than 3/32”.
‰ When going from warm to cold climate, verify tire pressure (when
checked cold, maintain pressure at 100 PSI.)
Trailer
‰ Spray the trailer door seals and trailer slider mechanism with a lubricant
such as WD-40. This will keep them from freezing.
Wiper Blades
‰
‰
‰
‰
Replace windshield wiper blades (consider heavy-duty blades).
Put “winter mix” washer fluid in reservoir.
Check the reservoir often to make sure it is full and not frozen.
Carry an extra set of wiper blades.
5
Book 7
Wiring and Air Lines
‰ Remove ice and snow from all wiring and air lines before and during a
trip. This is especially important for air lines under the trailer as heavy
ice can pull them down so they catch on ground hazards and break.
‰ Make sure glad hands are always stored properly so water, snow, or ice
does not get into air lines.
CAUTION: DO NOT put methanol in the glad hands or other parts
of the air system to keep it from freezing. Methanol
destroys the filter beads in modern air dryers and you
wind up getting even more water in your air system.
Go through the C. R. England Winter Driving Kit Checklist (back of this book)
to make sure you have what you will need on your truck to drive safely through
bad weather.
Preparing Yourself for Winter Driving
6
Comment: I think this is shown on video and
is the top of the page. Check this.
Professional Apprentice Driver Series - Module C
Trip Planning for Winter Success
Always expect that weather could delay you. The winter season will put your
trip planning skills to the test. Here are some ideas on how to get both yourself
and your load to your customer safely and on time.
Š
Š
Š
Š
Š
Š
Š
Do not delay. When you have good driving conditions, make the most of
them. The good conditions may not last too long.
Be flexible and communicate with your DM whenever weather delays you.
Use hand and toe holds when you enter and leave the cab. Keep these holds
free of ice and snow. If you need to, use a brush to clean them before getting
out of the cab.
Be prepared to chain up. It will save you a lot of time if you have practiced
the procedure to put on chains.
Make a solid plan before you start the trip of where you will stop for food,
fuel and sleep.
Have a truck stop locator guidebook and an Exit Guide. When the weather
gets bad, you do not want to have to guess about where you can safely park
your rig.
Keep track of what the weather is doing, not only where you are now, but
where you are traveling in the next few days.
For Reliable Weather Information:
;
C.R. England’s weather desk, 800-421-9078
;
CNN TV station national weather updates on the ½ hour
;
The Weather Channel (SLC office runs the channel all day)
;
National Weather Radio Service broadcasts on 162.40 to
162.55 MHz
;
USA Today newspaper (back page of front section has an
excellent weather map)
;
Weather broadcast banks on CB radio or regular radio
;
CRE Qualcomm Weatherwatch daily messages
7
Book 7
Weather Information cont.
;
Internet websites (CRENGLAND.COM or
TATRAVELCENTERS.COM will link you to some of the best
weather sites available on the web
;
CB radio, just ask other drivers who have driven through the
area you are going
Pay extra attention to planning your route in bad weather. Have a safe back-up
route in mind in case your main route is closed by weather or an accident. Look
for alternate routes that would go around high mountain passes and discuss
possible options with your D.M.
If the weather forecast shows a high risk for storms on your designated route,
make sure you plan for driving at slower speeds.
“In Wyoming it only snows once a year and then the rest of the year it just
keeps blowing around.”
Seeing It Coming
When you see trucks coming towards you with snow and ice on their landing
gear, it is a good sign that there is bad weather ahead. Snow collected under
windshield wipers or on the grill of an approaching vehicle would be a sign of
snow just ahead. If you notice that approaching traffic has fallen off to only a
few vehicles or no vehicles, it may be a sign that the road is closed ahead. You
will want to check the weather station and start looking for a safe haven.
When the Snow Starts Coming Down
When you see the first signs of bad weather, you need to respond with basic
caution.
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Professional Apprentice Driver Series - Module C
Taking Basic Cautions
;
;
;
;
Turn your headlights (low beam) and clearance lights on.
;
;
Increase your following distance.
;
Use gentle, light braking or stab braking to make sure your
wheels do not lock and cause a skid. Do not brake any harder
than you need to.
;
Gear down gently and make sure you are in the correct gear
well ahead of turns, curves or stops. Make turns and take
curves as smoothly as possible.
;
Slow down before curves and then slightly accelerate in the
curve to pull the trailer through the curve.
;
Do not let the trailer push you. It is usually loaded and heavier
than the tractor.
;
Watch far enough ahead. This will help you avoid the need to
change speeds quickly or avoid panic stopping.
Turn on your mirror heaters.
Clean off the dashboard so the defroster vents are clear.
Slow down and adjust your speed to the conditions. Do not
overtake and pass other vehicles unless you have to.
Get a feel for the road by having a light, slow touch on
acceleration and steering.
You also need to remember not to use the engine brake on slick roads as it
only slows the tractor and not the trailer. This could result in a jackknife.
And do not use cruise control either. You cannot respond to changes as quickly
when you use it and it may even lead to acceleration during a skid.
Comment: On top of page 10 in video.
Remember to slow down by about a third on wet
roads, say from 60 to 40, especially when it first
starts to rain. The rain brings out the oil on the
road surface, which creates slippery conditions
until it is washed away. With snow, slow down to
9
Book 7
around half the normal speed and with ice you need to slow to a crawl and get
off the road to a safe haven as soon as possible. When the road has a covering
of ice, even chains are not enough.
Sometimes, what looks like a wet road will really be black ice. It is a good idea
to have an outside thermometer on your truck. Many trucks have a Driver
Message Center display panel mounted on the dashboard above the steering
wheel. Pushing the TEMP button will display the outside air temperature. If the
temperature is below freezing (32 degrees Fahrenheit), you can expect at least
some ice. Roll down you window and check the back of your mirrors to see if
they are icy. And, watch for spray from your tires and the tires of other
vehicles. If there is no spray, the “water” you are looking at on the road is
probably black ice.
If you are not sure what you are seeing is ice, ease
off on the throttle and treat it like ice until you
know for sure it is not. If you feel your rig moving
even a little bit in a direction you are not steering,
or, if a gentle steer does not change the direction
of the vehicle, then you know you are on ice.
Another sure sign is when your tachometer jumps
up and down when you are not shifting or
clutching. This tells you your drive tires are losing
traction and spinning out.
Knowing When to Stop
How do you know when the weather is bad enough that you should pull over?
That is the age-old question and there is no foolproof answer. It is a judgment
call, every time. You head into weather and you think, “This is OK. With care,
the rig can handle it.” Then it starts getting worse and then it clears up a little. It
is not a question you ask once, but something you are constantly thinking about
in the back of your mind. Some drivers set a minimum speed for themselves,
say 30 miles an hour, and if they cannot keep moving safely at that speed, they
take it as a clue that it is time to pull over. Still other drivers think of weather as
OK, medium, and bad.
10
Professional Apprentice Driver Series - Module C
OK
Medium
Bad
When they first come into weather, they start to think ahead and plan for a place
where they can stop. When they get there, if it is getting worse, they pull over at
least long enough to get weather information they can depend on. If the weather
is staying the same or getting a little better, they think ahead for the next safe
stopping place and keep going until they reach it.
You need to have the next safe haven constantly in mind so if the weather gets
worse you can stop before it gets too bad. You need to be able to see the lane
lines and far enough ahead so you can stop if you need to. You also need to
have enough traction so you can steer accurately and pull your trailer. When
you start to lose these, it is time to find a safe place to pull over.
“Sometimes drivers just don’t realize that their desire to get to their favorite
truck stop doesn’t make the road any safer.”
A Safe Place to Wait It Out
It is best to find a truck stop or paved rest area to
stop and wait out a storm. If you are thinking
ahead, this is usually not a problem. However, there
are rare times when you break down and you do not
have any choice but to stop on a shoulder or a pull
out. In those cases, pull as far to the side of the road
as you can without going off the pavement or onto
a soft, crumbling shoulder.
CAUTION: For a large truck, pulling over on the side
of a highway is always risky, not only for you,
but for other vehicles. It causes a distraction
and a hazard for other drivers. When a car hits
a stopped semi tractor-trailer at highway
speeds, it can be fatal. Unfortunately, this
11
Book 7
happens more often than you may think. Even though this kind
of an accident may not legally be the fault of the truck driver, it
is a tragedy you can and must help prevent. DO NOT PARK
ON THE SHOULDER OF A HIGHWAY UNLESS IT IS
AN EMERGENCY!
Shoulders are seldom wide enough or strong enough to support
the weight of a large truck. You could easily sink on one side
and the truck could get stuck or tip over.
Stopping at Truck Stops
Under normal conditions, we recommend rest areas as a safer, more time
efficient place to sleep than at truck stops. However, during severe cold
conditions, truck stops offer the safety of a warm shelter and quicker service
and repair response if needed.
You will find the activity for this topic, Identify Safe Havens, in the back of the
book.
Pulling Over Safely
Wherever you park, avoid parking in a snowdrift because you cannot be sure
what is really underneath the snow. In addition, avoid parking on any kind of a
grade. When you know you are approaching your rest area:
Approaching a Rest Area
in Bad Weather
12
c
Turn on your hazard lights.
d
For about a mile before you stop, put light pressure on your
service brakes to dry them out.
e
Slow down and steer gently.
f
When you are parking, if you have driven into snow, roll back
and forth in the space to make tracks so it will be easier to pull
out when the weather clears.
Comment: Reference in video is pages 15-17
Professional Apprentice Driver Series - Module C
Approaching a Rest Area cont.
g
Use sand or cat litter in the tracks to help with traction pulling
out.
Tires are hotter than the surrounding snow and can melt the snow in the
ruts once the vehicle has stopped. This can turn to ice that freezes the
tires to the underlying snow. Lay down chains or carpet pieces under
front drive tires in the ruts in addition to or instead of sand or cat litter
to help with traction getting out.
Once You Are Stopped
c
Before you do anything else, Qualcomm your DM and fill him
or her in on the situation.
d
Set both the tractor AND the trailer brakes, in spite of what old
timers may recommend. If you have taken the time to dry out
your brakes by holding them at a constant, slight pressure for
about ½ mile before you stop, your trailer brakes should not
freeze. If they do, use the method discussed later on to unfreeze
them.
Another safeguard you can take to prevent the trailer brakes
from freezing is to let the unit sit for 15 minutes before setting
the trailer parking brake. This allows drying and draining to
take place. Release the brakes after ½ hour to break any ice that
may have formed. Then reset the trailer parking brakes. Make
sure the tractor parking brake is set during this time and do this
only if you are on level ground.
Walk around your vehicle to make sure you are on solid
pavement.
e
CAUTION: DO NOT spend more than a few minutes at
a time outside your truck cab. Cold and wind can quickly
lead to frostbite. If you get stuck, stay in your vehicle
until help arrives.
f
Check your tires and fluid levels.
13
Book 7
Once You Are Stopped cont.
g
Check lights and reflectors to make sure they are free of snow
or ice and can be seen.
h
Check to make sure there is nothing blocking the exhaust so
fumes move away from the cab.
i
Check the front grill to make sure it is not clogged up with ice.
j
Get back in the cab; use your cell phone, weather radio,
anything you can, to get current, up to date, RELIABLE
weather information. Do not count on the chatter over the CB.
k
Connect the reefer jumper cables within a few minutes of
stopping. The reefer can help the truck batteries stay charged,
but it is not powerful enough to fully charge the truck batteries
once they have run down.
Note: There are special jumper cables to connect your reefer
battery to your truck battery. DO NOT use standard jumper
cables for this purpose as it can result in damage to the reefer
unit.
CAUTION: DO NOT start your truck engine with the
reefer jumper cables connected. It will burn out the fuse
on the reefer jumper cables.
Some newer trailers have a charging cable installed
directly into the reefer unit and jumper cables are not
needed. These units have a red sticker on the front door
of the reefer that reads:
“Notice: Unit equipped with tractor battery charging
system. To operate this system – turn on the reefer unit
and turn the tractor key to “ON.” Do not use jumper
cables on these trailers.”
Operating in Severe Cold Conditions
A sustained period of temperatures at +10 degrees F or below describes severe
cold. (This refers to actual temperature. Wind chill does not affect fuel
14
Comment: Keep this section with the font
size of 12 to maintain a match between the
OTR Book, Winter Driving Guidebook and
accompanying DVD.
Professional Apprentice Driver Series - Module C
temperature.) Straight #2 diesel fuel begins to have problems flowing at this and
lower temperatures. When diesel will not flow, obviously the tractor and reefer
will not run. The following steps may be necessary to prevent freeze-ups from
occurring. It is important to understand that some of these directions are
contrary to normal operating procedure. These instructions only apply when
operating in severe cold conditions.
Keep Moving (Only If Safe To Do So)
Stopping during severe cold conditions is the biggest cause of freeze ups. Fuel
flows slower at idle and obviously not at all when the engine is shutoff. Plan
your schedules to keep running during the coldest times of day and in the
coldest areas. However, do not let this overrule the need to operate safely and
legally.
Additives and Fuel Blends
Under normal winter conditions, we do not use fuel additives or have drivers
blend fuel. Fuel stations will sell fuel already blended for their location during
cold weather.
Fuel Update Messages
During severe or extreme cold conditions, important instructions will be given
in the fuel phone mailbox. Your DM can transfer you to this message box at
anytime.
When to Leave the Truck Running
Under normal conditions, the policy is for drivers to shut off their trucks when
stopped. Under severe cold conditions however (+10 degrees F or below), the
tractor should not be shut off. You should leave your truck idling as long as the
temperature is below +20 degrees F.
Severe cold conditions cause problems with diesel fuel. The cloud point for
diesel fuel, the point where it starts to gel, is +10 degrees F. Because
temperatures can drop quickly, it is best to give yourself a little buffer,
especially if you are going into the sleeper. In temperatures above +20 degrees
F, the Webasto or Espar bunk heater and a blanket or two are more than enough
to keep you nice and warm. If the reefer is not equipped with a tractor battery
charging system, you will want to connect your reefer jumper cables to the
reefer battery to keep the truck battery charged.
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Book 7
If extended idling is necessary, the idle speed is preset to 1000 RPMs. In tests
we have conducted, high idle (1000 RPMs) has raised in-tank fuel temperatures
nearly four times over standard idle (500–600 RPMs). High idle also prevents
engine damage that occurs during extended low idle. After extended idle,
raising RPMs to 1500–1600 for 5–10 minutes before driving the truck will raise
the temperature of the fuel in the tank. (Note: Do not idle the truck at 1500–
1600 RPMs for extended periods. Extended idle should be at 1000 RPMs.)
Getting Started After the Blizzard
If you have to wait out a blizzard, take special care on your walk around
inspection before getting back on the road. The following is a list of what you
need to pay special attention to after waiting out a winter storm.
Getting Back On the Road
c
d
Check your front grill again to make sure snow and ice have not
built up. This could block airflow to the engine and cause your
engine to overheat, even in cold weather.
Brake shoes may freeze to the brake drums if your brakes were
warm and damp when you parked.
Deal with this situation slow and easy, just like almost everything
else in winter driving. Release both the tractor and trailer emergency
brakes.
16
e
Then push on the service brakes. This can put up to 1800 footpounds of pressure on the brake drums – a lot more pressure than
anyone could manage with a hammer.
f
Push down and release the service brake several times. This should
clear the ice.
Comment: Reference in video is 19-21
Professional Apprentice Driver Series - Module C
Getting Back on the Road cont.
g
Try moving forward in a small serpentine. Watch your trailer tires as
you do this to make sure they are rolling. If they are not, set the
emergency brakes again and release. Keep
working with applying service and emergency brakes until the ice
between the brake drum and lining breaks free.
h
In addition, do not forget to check to make sure your 5th wheel is
moving freely. They can get stiff or frozen as well and it really
causes problems when you are trying to make a turn.
i
Once you think you have the brakes loosened up, do a quick rolling
brake check. If you are able to move the vehicle forward without
problems, bring it up to about 5 miles an hour and press in the
clutch.
ƒ
ƒ
If you keep rolling on flat ground, it means all brakes are
disengaged, free of ice.
If you stop rolling when you put in the clutch, one or more of the
brakes are still frozen and you have to work them loose.
As you pull back out onto the highway, remember that with all the snow and ice
your turns and shifts need to be very smooth.
CAUTION: You may have heard old timers talk about getting under
their rig and knocking the ice off the brakes with a hammer.
However, you cannot knock anything loose when the brakes
are set. And do you really want to loosen up brakes that are
not set when you are under the trailer? No! This is a very
risky practice and is not necessary if you have a little
patience and just keep working the brakes.
17
Book 7
Comment: In video, top of page 22
Safe Winter Driving Techniques
Traction
Maintaining traction is the key to safe
winter driving. Traction is the grip
between the tire surface and the road
surface. The grip between the tires and
road surface allows you to control how
you move AND stop. The more traction
you have the more control you have.
Without traction, you have no control.
Factors that affect traction are the level of
traction, the road surface and the speed of
travel.
Levels of Traction
There are three basic levels of traction: static (when you are stopped or sitting
still) rolling, and skidding.
Consider static traction as the best traction you can have for a given vehicle.
Rate it at 100 percent. In comparison, rolling traction would be rated at 60
percent because when a tire is rolling a smaller portion of it is in contact with
the road surface. Less surface contact equals less traction.
When a tire is skidding, it has only about 10% of the grip, or traction it would
have if the vehicle were sitting still. So, you can see the effect that motion alone
has on traction.
Road Surface
Now layer on top of that the effect the road surface has on traction. Not even
dry, flat roads have perfect traction. On average, the best you can realistically
hope for is a surface that is about 75 percent of what it could be. If the road is
wet, it is down to 50 percent. If there is snow on the road, you are down to 30
percent. Moreover, with ice, you only have about 10 percent.
A rough shift can create loss of traction by interrupting the smooth
rolling traction of the drive tires. Missing a shift and coasting (not
18
Professional Apprentice Driver Series - Module C
pulling your trailer) out of gear is also a big problem, as is shifting at
either too high or too low of RPMs.
Skidding
When you are rolling on ice, your rig is barely hanging on by one pinky finger
and once you start to skid on ice your grip on the road is all but gone.
Always take any turn at a slow speed in a low gear, and with as wide a
turning path as is safely possible. By doing this, you keep more of the
tire in contact with the road surface; thus increasing traction.
Speed
Speed is another factor in traction. As the rig’s speed increases, traction
decreases. When traction is poor for any reason, slow down until you have the
rig well under control.
To make up for poor traction, you need to decrease your speed and increase
your space in winter weather. Slowing down improves your traction. This is
why C. R. England speed rules require cutting speed 1/3 on wet roads and 1/2
on slush and snow. Reduced traction also means it will take you much longer to
stop on wet or snowy roads. So remember, where you are used to counting 9
seconds to judge following distance on dry roads, you will need to count 13
seconds on wet roads and count 24 seconds on slush and snow.
19
Comment: In video on page 25
Book 7
When the weather is bad, you want to drive like a loner and keep away from the
pack.
Leaving more following distance in front of you does not mean you are driving
slower. It just means you are driving smarter.
Maintaining proper tire inflation, correct amount of tread, and weight
on the drive wheels provides better traction and better control of your
rig.
You will find the activity for this topic, Adjusting Following Distance, in the
back of the book.
Double Momentum Shift
When the roads are slick, you need to drive in a way that will make the most of
the traction you have. One way to do this is to avoid double momentum shifts.
In other words, two changes in speed or direction at the same time. This would
include things like:
Doing two or more of these things at once puts a real strain on your traction and
can throw you into a skid or off to the side of the road very easily. So if you
need to make a lane change and there is a curve coming up, make sure you
complete the lane change before you take the curve or wait until you are
through the curve before you start the lane change.
20
Comment: In video page 26, refers to being
the first paragraph on page 26
Professional Apprentice Driver Series - Module C
It is the same with speed. Make sure you slow down before the curve or change
lanes before you start up a grade. In bad weather, you should only ask your
vehicle to do one thing at a time. But that means you have to constantly be
looking and planning. It just keeps coming back to smooth, slow moves and
enough time and space to make them.
Managing Grades
Heading Downhill
Before going down a grade in winter, check a couple of things.
Before You Go…
;
Even though you checked out the brakes at the beginning
of your shift, you should still make a habit of always
touching them just before you come over the top of the
hill to make sure they are still in good shape.
;
Also make sure you have released the Inter-axle
Differential Lock (sometimes called the Power Divider)
before going down hill. Why? Because a free rolling
wheel, one that is not receiving power or braking from
the vehicle, cannot slide. Shut the Power Divider off and
you will always have a rolling wheel.
When You Go…
;
When driving down a grade in winter, select a speed and
a gear that gives you the ability to go slow enough to stay
in control and yet have the ability, should you need it, to
let off the brakes or even accelerate slightly to pull a
sliding trailer back in behind you.
;
Plan your shifts and think about what you are doing.
Missing a gear, then coasting out of gear and gaining
speed on a downgrade or slippery road is extremely
dangerous.
The following is an example of what you should consider when driving down a
hill.
21
Book 7
Š
Š
Š
Š
If you are on a highway where the posted speed limit is 75 mph, you should
be driving around 37 mph because of the snow
If you think there may be ice on the hill, you may want to slow even more
In this case, you might slow to 25 mph
Assume, for discussion, that you are in 5th gear
The important question is where are your RPMs? Are they high in the range or
are they low in the range? This is what you need to know when you are going
down a grade. Once you are at a safe, manageable speed, then you need to think
about whether or not you have torque.
Torque and Horsepower
Torque is the amount of pull an engine has. Think about a
John Deere farm tractor. It does not go very fast, but it
has enough torque to pull a stump out of the ground.
Horsepower has to do with how fast an engine can go.
Racecars have a lot of horsepower, but they do not have
much torque. They even have to be pushed out of the pit to
get moving.
A truck has both torque and horsepower. At each gear step, you have high
torque in the LOW to MID RPMs and high horsepower in the HIGH RPMs. If
you are in the high torque range (low to mid RPMs), you have the ability to
PULL. So, if the trailer happened to get out of line and you were in high RPMs,
the only thing you could do to speed up and get out in front of the trailer would
be to upshift. And you would not want to upshift if your trailer is trying to push
you off the road. If you push in your clutch to shift at this point, or brake, you
lose the pull on your trailer and can make the trailer skid worse.
22
Comment: In video page 29. However,
graphics were changed, so video looks
different.
Professional Apprentice Driver Series - Module C
That is why, when going down a grade, you keep your RPMs in the mid range
so you always have the ability to pull when you need it without having to upshift.
CAUTION: Be careful not to go too low in the torque range (below
approximately 1000 RPM) when going down hill with a
heavy load, as this could also cause a skid. However, some
engines have a lower torque range. Make sure you look at
the Operator’s Manual for the vehicle you are driving.
Going Uphill
In order to understand the proper technique
for going up grades on slick roads, you first
need to know what causes a drive axle skid.
This is the most common type of skid drivers
experience when pulling a slick grade. When
you understand what CAUSES it, then
learning how to PREVENT it will make more
sense.
Causes of a Drive Axle Skid
If you are driving up a slick hill and your drive tires hit a patch of ice, you will
lose traction and your wheels are going to spin until they run out of engine
RPMs. This will happen immediately because all of the sudden there is no
traction and they are free to run. This causes your drive axles to swing out to
one side or the other. This generally goes with the crown of the road, so if you
are in the right lane they would spin out to the right and you would begin to
jackknife.
Preventing a Drive Axle Skid
To prevent that, you need to stay out of the torque
range when going up a grade. To stay out of the
torque range, keep RPMs high. When going uphill,
staying high in the RPM range also helps to keep
your engine from overheating by allowing it to
breathe.
23
Comment: Reference in video as page
30.
Book 7
Comment: Referenced in video as page 32.
Remember these techniques by thinking “Up High” and “Down Low.” In other
words, going up a grade you want to have high RPMs and going down a grade
you want low RPMs.
Here is an example of how this principle would be applied for a particular truck.
Remember, the specific miles per hour, gear numbers, and RPMs may be
different for your truck. It all depends on the engine and transmission you
have. Peterbilts with Caterpillar engines tend to have a lower no-load
governed RPM.
For this example, assume your vehicle has a 9–speed transmission and the
engine has a “no-load governed RPM” of 2050 with a gear step of 450 RPMs.
Š
You are in 6th* gear and you are approaching the grade at about 30* miles
per hour
Š
Š
RPMs are just under 1400*, in the torque range
Š
Š
In order to get into the high RPM power range, you will need to downshift
Š
Since you will be going uphill, you will want to be in the high RPM, power
range (Up High, Down Low)
To avoid a double momentum shift, you will want to make the downshift
before you start up the grade
Now you are in 5th* gear going about 28* miles per hour and your RPMs are
at 1800*
*Remember that specific gears, road speed, and RPMs will be different for
a vehicle with a different no-load governed RPM and/or gear step
Š
As you are starting up the grade, if none of your wheels are spinning out,
engage the Inter-axle Differential (Power Divider)
CAUTION: Do not engage the Power Divider when any of the drive axle
wheels have lost traction and are spinning out, as it will damage the
mechanism. This kind of damage occurs most often when a driver is
backing a vehicle and spins out on ice or even gravel and before the
wheels stop spinning, he or she engages the Power Divider to get more
traction. If you are in this situation, you need to push in the clutch and
apply the service brakes to make sure the wheels are stopped before
engaging the Power Divider. The confusion comes when drivers think
that just because their vehicle is not moving their wheels are stopped.
24
Professional Apprentice Driver Series - Module C
At first, it may feel funny pulling a grade at high RPMs. You will also notice
that this method uses more fuel. However, you are using that extra fuel to
prevent an accident. It is a very small price to pay for the benefit.
Comment: Referenced on pages 33 and
34
Ice Shift
As you continue up the grade and lose ground speed, you will probably need to
downshift. In this situation, you will want to use an Ice Shift. It allows you to
downshift without dropping the RPMs into the torque range.
Here is an example of steps to follow to do an Ice Shift. The gear numbers and
RPMs in the example are based on a 9–speed transmission where the engine has
a “no-load governed RPM” of 2050 with a gear step of 450 RPMs.
You are in 5th* gear and you are down to 1600* RPMs, so if you are going to
stay out of the torque range, you need to do something right away.
Steps for Ice Shifting
c
Clutch in and shift into neutral. Now, push on the accelerator
to get the RPMs all the way to the top.
d
At the same time, move the gearshift to fourth gear and use
your fingertips to gently press the shift lever up against the
gear. Do not shove it, just rub it up against the gear and hold
it.
e
Keep your foot on the accelerator to keep the RPMs high and
your other foot off the clutch. When the truck slows down to
where the road speed matches the gear you have selected, it
will slip right into gear, smooth as silk.
*Remember that specific gears, road speed, and RPMs will be different for a vehicle
with a different no-load governed RPM and/or gear step.
Ice Shifting is not the same thing as floating gears. In an Ice Shift, you do float
the gear IN, but you clutch to take it out of gear. Most of the damage to
transmissions occurs when drivers fail to clutch OUT of gears. Floating into a
gear, when necessary, causes very little damage unless you push and force it
into gear. You also have to remember that in an Ice Shift you are keeping your
RPMs at the top of the range whereas in a regular downshift you usually come
25
Book 7
into gear just above the torque range. On a steep grade, you can even go down
two gears with an Ice Shift, if you need to.
Driving Grades in Winter − Quick Review
Up and Over the Hill
c
As you approach the upgrade, make sure your drive tires are
not spinning out and, if not, switch on your Power Divider.
d
e
Change lanes, if necessary.
f
Think “Up High, Down Low” to remind yourself to keep
your RPMs high, in the horsepower range, when you are
going up hill and low, in the torque range, when you are
going down hill.
g
As the hill slows you down, do an Ice Shift, which allows
you to keep you RPMs high in the range.
h
Just before you come to the top of the hill, brake a little. This
does two things for you; it tests your brakes and it slows your
RPMs into the torque range.
i
Now, unless your wheels are spinning out, disengage your
Power Divider.
j
As you go down the grade, keep your RPMs low by applying
slow, gentle pressure to your brakes.
k
And, once again, avoid sudden steering changes or double
momentum shifts.
Gear down early to avoid any double momentum shifts when
you hit the base of the hill.
You will find the activity for this topic, Practice Winter Driving Techniques for
Grades, as well as procedures for ice shifting and trailer axle skid recovery in
the back of the book.
26
Professional Apprentice Driver Series - Module C
Hydroplaning
Hydroplaning is like waterskiing with your
truck because your tires have lost their contact
with the road. When you hydroplane, you need
to get off the accelerator and push in the clutch.
This will slow you down and let all the wheels
turn freely. When the tires are turning freely,
they have a better chance of grabbing the road surface. Once you feel the
traction coming back, you can stab brake to slow and then accelerate slightly to
pull the trailer and keep it from swinging around.
Recovering from a Hydroplane
c
d
e
f
Off accelerator
Push in the clutch
When you feel traction, stab brake
Release clutch and accelerate slightly to pull trailer
Managing Skids
When a driver starts to skid, a natural reaction is to hit the brake. In this case,
acting on the first reaction is the worst thing to do. Skids are the result of asking
your vehicle to do more than it has the traction to do. There are four main types
of skids and they correspond to the three main axles on the combination
vehicle. They are:
Š
Š
Š
Š
All wheel skids
Front wheel skids
Trailer axle skids
Drive axle skids or jackknives
It is important to learn about what causes each of these types of skids because
the ways to prevent them and correct them, when possible, are different for each
type. When it comes to skids, the ability to prevent them is much more
important than the ability to correct them. In situations where the speed is
27
Book 7
too great and the space is too small, no amount of skill will be enough. The key
to preventing skids is to keep ALL your tires in contact with the road and
rolling at the same speed as the others.
Unlike most other things in winter driving, in a skid recovery situation you have
to act FAST.
All Wheel Skid
In an all wheel skid, all wheels are locked up
and sliding.
Common causes:
ƒ Driving too fast for conditions.
ƒ
Over braking. This is simply applying
more pressure to the brakes than your
vehicle and tire traction can handle
safely based on your load, speed, and
road conditions.
In this, as in other types of skids, you need to remember the maxim that “A
rolling wheel cannot slide.” This means a free rolling wheel. In a situation
where you are over braking and start to skid you need to respond in a way that
will allow your wheels to roll freely.
Recovering from an
All Wheel Skid
c
Take your foot off the brake since that was part of what
caused the skid.
d
Do not accelerate because that would force motion on
the wheels.
e
Push in the clutch in order to allow your wheels to roll
freely.
Recovering from an All Wheel Skid cont.
28
Professional Apprentice Driver Series - Module C
f
Do not try to change direction or shift gears while you
are sliding.
g
When you feel the tires getting a little traction, gently
stab brake to regain control without locking up the
brakes again.
h
Allow time for the brakes to release between stabs so
that the tires can roll freely enough to continue to gain
traction.
i
Now make a gentle downshift to match road speed as
you take your foot off the clutch.
Trailer Axle Skid
Sometimes called a trailer jackknife, this is
where the trailer wheels lock up and start to
slide around sideways trying to overtake the
tractor. Because they have lost their traction,
skidding wheels have no resistance and will
always travel faster and try to get in front of
turning wheels. That is why it is so important
to get off the brakes to unlock the wheels
allowing the trailer tires to roll again.
Common causes:
ƒ
ƒ
ƒ
Over braking
Improperly adjusted trailer brakes
Unbalanced, empty or lightly loaded trailer
29
Book 7
Recovering from a
Trailer Axle Skid
c
d
Get off the brakes immediately.
e
Once the vehicle is under control, gently stab brake to slow.
Be careful when you do this not to lock the trailer brakes as
this could lead to another trailer axle skid.
f
It is important to check your mirrors frequently to keep an
eye on your trailer so you catch trailer swing as soon as it
starts. Once a trailer axle skid goes too far, it is almost
impossible to pull.
After you get off the brakes, you may need to accelerate
slightly to provide the torque needed to pull the trailer back in
line. If you are keeping your RPMs in the torque range when
going downhill, you will be able to do this without having to
shift.
Note: Do not accelerate more than 2–3 mph, just enough to put some pull
on the trailer. You cannot “out run” a trailer axle skid by going faster.
Significant acceleration could actually result in a worse skid.
Comment: Referenced in video as pages 41
& 42
Front Wheel Skid
This is the horrible experience of turning the
steering wheel and having the truck ignore you
as it continues to move straight ahead.
30
Professional Apprentice Driver Series - Module C
Common causes:
ƒ Driving too fast for conditions (this is the core cause of just about any
skid).
ƒ
Over steering. This is applying more directional force than your vehicle
and tire traction can handle safely based on your load, speed, and road
conditions. In other words, you are probably cranking the wheel too
hard.
Recovering from a
Front Wheel Skid
c
d
e
Get off the accelerator.
f
Continue to stab brake to slow the vehicle until you have full
steering traction.
g
Gently steer in the direction you need to go.
Stab brake to slow the vehicle.
Turn the steer tires back in the direction of the skid so they
can start to roll instead of sliding sideways. (This is your only
chance to get traction back to those tires to regain steering
control.
This is why it is so important to approach turns, ramps, and curves slowly in
bad weather. If you are going too fast, not only could it throw you into a skid
like this, but the speed will also eat up any space you might have had to
recover.
Drive Axle Skid or Jackknife
This is where the drive axle wheels lock up
and start to skid. You read about this type of
skid earlier in the section on managing
grades.
31
Book 7
Common causes:
ƒ Over acceleration
ƒ
ƒ
Over braking
Jerky downshifting on a slick surface
Recovering from a
Drive Axle Skid
c
d
e
Push in your clutch.
f
g
Steer and counter steer to gain control.
Get off the brake and accelerator.
Look in your left mirror ONLY (you don’t have time to look
in both mirrors and if you do not see your trailer in your left
mirror you can be pretty sure it is coming around on the
right).
When you have the truck back in front of your trailer, use
light stab braking to slow the vehicle.
“Good drivers don’t get good at pulling out of skids. Good drivers are good at
avoiding them.”
Even the best driver in the world could not pull out of three jackknives in a row.
And, when you are overconfident and lose your sense of caution, you are going
to wind up in one skid too many.
CAUTION: When bobtailing, most of the tractor’s weight is on the
steering tires, carrying the weight of the engine. Since there
is nothing pushing down on the drive tires, the unit has very
poor braking characteristics. If you lock the drive tires, the
rear of the tractor skids and passes the steering tires. Though
the steering tires do not move, the unit will go completely
out of control.
32
Professional Apprentice Driver Series - Module C
Comment: Referenced in video as page
45
Other Winter Driving Tips
Bridges and Overpasses
Because bridges and overpasses do not have dirt under them to keep the surface
warm, they tend to ice up even if the rest of the road is not icy. So as a
precaution, ease off the accelerator just enough to drop about 50 RPMs when
you go over a bridge or overpass. This way you are not as likely to spin out and
yet you are still pulling on your trailer. This is often called “floating a bridge.”
Effects of the Time of Day
About an hour after the sun comes up in the morning, the snow and ice on the
road can begin to melt creating a layer of water on top of a layer of ice. This is
the worst possible kind of road surface to drive on so you have to be extremely
cautious. This can also happen in very sunny spots on a mostly shaded road. In
the evening, when the temperature drops, the slush and melt off from the day
freezes into black ice and it can be extremely dangerous as well.
Effects of the Angle of the Sun
Pay attention to the angle of the sun and the time of day because they can affect
road conditions.
When you are going up and down hills, the angle of the sun could mean that the
hill is dry on one side, but icy on the side that is still in the shadows. You could
be going up a hill on mostly dry road and then hit ice as soon as you come over
the top or at the base of a hill in a shaded valley.
33
Book 7
You need to think of driving in winter like being in a low budget horror movie.
You need to expect that over every hill and around every corner something will
be there to try to surprise you; a patch of ice, a snowplow, a stalled vehicle, or a
5–point buck deer. However, if you stay alert, know what to expect, and give
yourself time and space to respond, it is no longer frightening.
Visibility
Do not drive with your side rear view mirrors blocked. All lights and reflectors
should also be free of ice, snow and mud. Stop and clean them when you need
to, this may be often. Some states will issue citations for dirty or icy
windshields.
Time to Chain Up
It is usually a good clue that you need to chain up when you see bright
yellow, flashing signs over the road that say, “Chains Required.” If you
are not alert enough to notice them, a nice officer will pull you over and
give you a $400.00 reminder. Most truck stops keep up with chain
requirements during bad weather and the CB channels are typically full of
chatter on the topic. If you are aware of what is going on around you, it is tough
to miss the signs of a mandatory chain up.
Note: When you have entered a DOT-Highway patrol “Chains Required Area”,
you will be required to have the proper number of chains on your vehicle. In
addition, when the chain laws are in effect, you will be required to have the
chains properly installed on your vehicle before you can proceed.
On the other hand, there are times when you need to chain up before a warning
is issued. You may run into a storm and need to chain up to get to a safe haven.
Usually you get a good warning before the storm. The bottom line is you use
34
Professional Apprentice Driver Series - Module C
chains when you cannot move safely without them and it is still safe enough to
move at all.
If you know you are going to have to chain up, it is better to chain up sooner
rather than chain up later. Even if this means you have to go slower for a few
miles before the restricted area, it is still worth it. The closer you get to the pass,
the harder it is to find an available, good place to do your chain up.
Most important, you need to find some place that is flat and protected from
traffic. Many hills that frequently require chains in the winter will have safe
pullouts to allow for chaining up. If you ever do have to chain up close to
traffic, make sure you face traffic while you are working and wear something
reflective, especially if it is dark.
When they see two flakes fall together on Donner, they put the chain law into
effect. And when three flakes fall together, they close the pass.
When You Chain Up:
;
;
;
;
;
;
Turn on flashers
Set all parking brakes on vehicle
Position red triangles
Be cautious of your footing
Watch for other traffic
Work facing traffic
35
Book 7
When You Chain Up:
;
Have an escape route away from the path of drivers that
may not see you
About Chains
There are two types of chains:
ƒ
ƒ
Singles or Two Rails (A)
Doubles, Duel or Three Rails (B)
Chain Parts
ƒ
ƒ
Cross Links extend across the
width of the tire and are
attached to the Side Rails
Two types of cross chains:
1. Ordinary or Conventional
2. Reinforced (This type is best for heavy wet
snow or frozen snow pack.)
ƒ
Cams, Hooks, Fastener
1. Hooks and fasteners connect one end of the
chain rail to the other end to hold the chain
onto the tire.
2. Cams tighten the chain around the tire.
36
Professional Apprentice Driver Series - Module C
Tools Needed
You will need the following tools to chain up:
ƒ Rain or snow gear
ƒ
ƒ
ƒ
ƒ
ƒ
ƒ
ƒ
ƒ
ƒ
ƒ
ƒ
Barrel nuts
Ground cover
T-handle cam tool
Hammer
Gloves
Flashlight (head mount or stand alone is best)
18–24 Rubber tarp straps or bungee
cords (14 to 16 inches long)
Adjustable pliers or small crescent
wrench
Fifth wheel puller
Large flat blade screwdriver
Tie wire
37
Book 7
Procedure to Chain Up
Step 1
Remove chains from the box or bag and
spread them out on the ground next to the
tire/tires.
ƒ
ƒ
Step 2
38
Singles – street side down
Doubles – street side up
Inspect chains for:
A) Claws facing different directions
B) Twisted, broken or bent rails
C) Broken, bent or twisted cams and hooks
D) Worn or broken cross links
A)
B)
C)
D)
Step 3
Open all cams. Put the side of the chain with the cams facing away
from the tire.
Step 4
If you are using a three railer on the outside
wheel, fold the chain so the center rail is closest
to you and the two outside rails are closest to
the truck.
Professional Apprentice Driver Series - Module C
Step 5
Grasp chains by the center rail (the rail
closest to you).
Step 6
Lift the outer top side rail and flip over the
inside tire. (Make sure the cams are on the
outside if only one rail has them).
Step 7
To complete the unfolding, the chains should lay
evenly over the duel group and hang evenly on
both ends.
Step 8
Tuck the end of the chain that does not have
the hook fastener under the tire as much as
possible.
Step 9
Carefully move the vehicle just enough to roll onto the chains
(approximately 24’’) but not so far that the other end of the chain
falls off the tires.
Step 10
The order in which the side rails are hooked is important. Use the
following directions for hooking up the rails.
Hooking Up Rails
c
Center Rail: Hook up 1st because it is the
hardest to reach and most important. Its
adjustment has the greatest effect on the
tightness of the inner and outer side rails.
d
Inside Rail: Hook up 2nd because
hooking and tightening the outside
rail increases pressure on the inside
rail.
39
Book 7
Hooking Up Rails cont.
e
Outside Rail: Hook up 3rd because it
is the easiest to hook and adjust with
the cams.
f
Excess Links: hook up 4th to secure
excess links over the end link and
hook before closing.
Step 11
Use the “T” bar to turn the cams into their
locked position.
If not all cams will lock, unlock them all and
try to hook chains onto the next link and
repeat.
Step 12
Attach rubber straps or bungee cords. Do
this by stretching two rubber straps across
the distance of a chained tire as shown in
the photo. Attach rubber straps on the side
rails between the cross-links (never on the
cross-link or the chain may break). Make
sure hooks and fasteners face out.
To secure loose tails, you may also use bungee cords.
Step 13
Drive a short distance (1/4 to 1/2 mile) and stop. Check and retighten
as needed.
Step 14
Inspect by looking for space under the rail. As you begin to drive,
listen for chains flopping or slapping.
When driving with chains installed, it is a good idea to stop about every 10 to
15 miles to re-check your chains.
40
Professional Apprentice Driver Series - Module C
Procedure to Remove Chains
Step 1
Remove rubber straps
Step 2
Release cams
Step 3
Unhook inner, outer and center rails
Step 4
Pull chains to side
Step 5
Move vehicle forward off the remainder of the chain so you can pick
the chain up.
Step 6
Put chains back in chain box or bags. Use tie wire to tie the ends of
the chains together before putting them away. This prevents them
from being tangled.
Frequently Asked Questions about Chains
Q: When will chains be issued and where can I pick them up?
A: C. R. England company trucks should be equipped with chains year round.
If for some reason your truck does not have chains, go to the Maintenance
Shop after September 1st to pick them up. Whether your chains are new or
old, make sure you lay them out and check that they are in good repair
before leaving the yard.
Q: C.R. England trucks are equipped with how many sets of
chains?
A: Two sets of singles and one set of doubles
Q: What will the bags look like?
A: Each truck is issued two bags marked “D” for DOUBLES and two bags
marked “S” for SINGLES
Q: What should independent contractors know about chains?
A: ƒ Independent contractors only pay for tractor chains
not trailer chains
41
Book 7
ƒ
ƒ
ƒ
Price for chains purchased from the Parts Department is about $250.00
Estimated price if purchased over the road is $300 to $500
Chains can be purchased through the Parts Department at extension
3225
Q: When should I use chains?
A: ƒ When required by state and local law
ƒ
ƒ
ƒ
To get over a dangerous section of the road
To get off the road and to a safe place
No more than one mile past the removal notification point
Q: Who notifies drivers of a chain requirement being in effect?
A: State and local police, weigh stations (DOT Officials), truck stop Highway
Information Board (HIB), and highway signs provide drivers with
information about the need to put on chains. If you have questions about
chaining in a particular area, call the State Road Information number found
in most atlases.
Q: Where should I chain up?
A: ƒ In a safe location before entering hazardous conditions
ƒ
ƒ
ƒ
On a level surface
In a proper chain up area
In a truck stop parking lot
Q: When you chain up, why wouldn’t you unhook the tractor from
the trailer?
A: ƒ Main reason, it is not safe
ƒ
ƒ
ƒ
Landing gear pad may slide
May not be able to get back under the trailer with the truck
Trailer may slide off the road or down a hill
Q: How does a truck with chains on react?
A. Chains are most useful on heavy, wet snow or frozen snow pack. They are
of limited use on black ice. And, once you are back on roads that do not
have snow, remove the chains as soon as safely possible. A truck may slip
and slide on bare concrete from the loss of surface traction if chains are left
on the tires.
42
Professional Apprentice Driver Series - Module C
Q: What is the maximum truck speed with chains on the tires?
A: ƒ 35 mph on snow
ƒ
ƒ
ƒ
25 mph or less on ice
15 mph on wet or dry roads
Never drive with chains on wet or dry roads for more than one mile
Q: Where do I get more rubber straps or exchange damaged
chains?
A. Obtain replacement chains from the Parts Room in the Maintenance Shop.
Buy straps at truck stops, discount shops, or automotive stores.
Q: To prevent back injury, what is the best way to pick up chains?
A. Use the strength of your legs to do the lifting. Get in a squatting position,
grab the chain and push up with your legs. Do not lift using your back
muscles. Keep your spine straight while you lift.
Q: How can I prevent damage to my vehicle and chains?
A: ƒ Always hook side rails with rubber straps.
ƒ
ƒ
Make sure all claws on the cross links are facing out, away from the
tires.
If you end up with more than one link extra on the end, double over and
secure with fasteners or straps.
Q: Do you put chains on steer tires?
A. No, chains are only put on the drive tires and trailer tires.
Q: What is the recommended pattern for putting chains on a
vehicle?
A: ƒ Duel chains on both sets of front drive axle tires
ƒ
ƒ
Single chains on both outside rear drive axle tires
Single chains on both outside rear trailer tires
43
Book 7
This specific pattern is required in the State of California. It will also meet
or exceed the requirement in any other state.
Keeping Winter Driving Skills Fresh
It would be very easy to get sloppy and out of good winter driving habits over
the summer months. To keep this from happening, use winter driving
techniques all year round. It makes you a better driver any time of the year if
you:
Š
Š
Š
Š
Š
Pull your trailer through turns, curves and lane changes
Avoid shifting while making a turn
Add extra following distance
Avoid double momentum shifts
Accelerate, shift, stop and brake smoothly
Being constantly aware of conditions and surroundings and responding
accordingly to stay in total control of your vehicle at all times is the surest sign
of a truly Professional Driver.
Winter Driving Kit Checklist
Note: If your truck’s Webasto or Espar auxiliary heater is not working, contact
Emergency Road Service.
Personal Items
‰ Heavy coat: waterproof and reflective
‰ Insulated coveralls: waterproof and reflective
‰ 2 pairs of gloves: warm and waterproof
‰
‰
‰
‰
44
o TIP: Wear waterproof gloves over a pair of warmer gloves
Winter shoes/boots with good traction
Extra set of warm clothing, socks and shoes
Extra blankets
Water and high calorie, nonperishable food for 3 days (dried or canned
meats, crackers, canned fruit, peanut butter, hard candy)
Professional Apprentice Driver Series - Module C
‰ Can opener
‰ Personal items
‰ First Aid Kit
Tools
‰ Jumper cables
‰
‰
‰
‰
‰
‰
‰
‰
o TIP: Also get a set of small jumper cables from the shop that will
go from the trailer refrigeration unit to the tractor battery *
Fuel filter wrench
Small shovel
Ice scraper
Flashlight and extra batteries
o TIP: Get a flashlight that you can set on the ground and point in
different directions so you can use both hands to work and still see
AND be seen
Assortment of hand tools (hammer, pliers, screwdrivers, wire cutters,
wrenches)
Multipurpose wire
Ground tarp
18–24 bungee cords, 14”–16” long to tighten chains
Parts & Supplies
‰
‰
‰
‰
‰
‰
‰
‰
‰
‰
‰
‰
‰
‰
‰
Tire chains *
Extra fuel filter *
5th wheel grease (small amount – packets)
Extra fuses ** +
Headlight and extra bulb ** +
Extra set of snow/ice windshield wiper blades
RAIN-X (for exterior glass surfaces)
FOG-X (for interior glass surfaces)
Kitty litter, rock salt, or sand for traction
1 gallon antifreeze +
1 gallon winter mix windshield washer fluid +
1 gallon engine oil +
Candles and waterproof matches
Towel or paper towels to wipe windows
Can of WD–40 lubricant spray
45
Book 7
* Items available from the SLC Parts Room at NO cost to company drivers
** Items available from the SLC Parts Room AT COST
+ Items available from the SLC Shop at no charge to company drivers
Dangerous Grades
The grades on interstates and highways listed on the following pages can be
risky to all trucks at any time if truck speed is not controlled properly. These
areas become more dangerous when winter weather conditions are present and
extreme caution should be used while traveling both up and down these grades.
Arizona
(Large Area)
Located: I-17 southbound between Flagstaff and Phoenix, AZ. *6%
grades.
California
Alpine
Located: I-8 in Alpine, CA to I-8 in Live Oak Springs, CA *When
traveling westbound, this is a 6% grade and then becomes a 5% grade. The risk
area extends about 6 miles.
Baker Pass
Located: I-15 20 miles inside CA. from NV to I-15 for 10 miles further
into CA. *5–6% grade for about 10 miles.
Coachella
Located: I-10 12 miles east of Indio, CA. *5% grade that starts 12 miles east
of Indio, CA.
Donner Pass
Located: I-80 in Reno, NV to Emigrant Gap, CA. *There are two
dangerous sections of grade. The first runs from Reno, NV to Yuba, CA with a 5%
grade for 10 miles and the second is a 6% grade that runs from Yuba, CA to
Emigrant Gap, CA for 10 miles.
Grapevine
Located: I-5 in Castaic, CA to I-5 at Wheeler Ridge, CA
*Winding 5% grade for about 30 miles.
Needles
Located: I-40 near Needles, CA. *5% grade starting10 miles west of Needles,
CA. It continues until you enter into Needles.
46
Professional Apprentice Driver Series - Module C
Tehachapi Pass
Located: SR-58 five miles outside Tehachapi to SR58 five miles past Tehachapi *6% grade for about 10 miles.
Colorado
Vail
Located: I-70 at mm-171 through Vail *5% downgrade that starts heading
east on mm-171 through mm-190.
Eisenhower Tunnel
Located: I-70 westbound about 5 miles prior to entering Denver, CO
*5% downgrade.
Loveland Pass
Location: Highway 6 from Georgetown, CO into Dillon, CO *This is the
Eisenhower Tunnel southern bypass for Hazardous Materials, overweight or overwidth loads, it is about a 15 mile stretch at a 5–6% grade.
Idaho
Fourth of July Pass
Located: I-90 between Kellogg and Coeur d’Alene, ID *6% East/West
grade.
Montana
Lookout Pass
Located: 1-90 between Saltese, MT and Silverton, ID *6% East/West
grade.
New Mexico
Raton Pass
Located: I-25 from the Colorado border to Albuquerque, NM for
approximately 20 miles
*5 to 7% North/South grade.
North Carolina
Black Mountain
Located: I-40 from Ashville, NC to Ridgecrest, NC
*6% grade that is often heavy with fog.
Oregon
Siskiyou
Located: I-5 north to Ashland, OR *6% grade.
Cabbage
Located: I-84 from Meacham, OR to mm-216
*A dangerous, winding 6% grade that is often heavy with fog.
47
Book 7
3–Mile Hill
Located: I-84 from Ontario, OR northbound *6% grade for about 3 miles.
Pennsylvania
Snow Shoe
Located: I-80 in PA from about mm-130 to mm-140
*5% East/West grade.
Utah
Parley’s Canyon
Located: I-80 from Summit Park into Salt Lake City, UT *6% grade for
about 10 miles.
Tennessee
Eagle Mountain
Located: I-24 from mm-135 into Chattanooga, TN
*6% grade, often covered with fog.
Virginia
(Large Area)
Located: I-77 from the I-81 junction southbound about 15 miles *6%
North/South grade.
Yancey Mills
Located: I-64 from Waynesboro, VA to Charlottesville, VA *5% grade
for about 5 miles.
Marion Area
Located: I-81 Marion, VA to Chilhowie, VA *5% grade.
Washington
Snoqualmie Pass
Located: I-90 from Seattle, WA to Ellensburg, WA *Very steep 7%
grade, often covered with fog.
Yakima
Located: I-82 from Southward into Yakima for
approximately 4 miles *4% grade that is often covered with fog.
West Virginia
Sandstone Mountain
Located: I-64, 4 miles East of Beckley, WV. *7% grade.
48
Professional Apprentice Driver Series - Module C
Book Quiz
Activity – Take a Quiz Using the Qualcomm
What you should do:
Once you have completed the activities for this book, you are required to take a
quiz using Qualcomm Macro 49. You will be answering about 15 questions on
the quiz. Plan to spend about ½-hour logged on Line 4, On Duty, to take this
quiz.
After you receive a passing score on all the book quizzes in the module, make
the module Check Call to your TC.
Quiz Questions
Form # 06C07B
Be sure you type a zero and not the letter “O” for
all characters that appear to be a zero.
Date: _________ Time: __________
Confirmation Number: ________________
1. The best way to get ice to break free from frozen brakes is to
Comment: Correct answer is D.
D = .20 then .32; Diff = .87
_______.
A)
B)
C)
D)
Comment: Location in Book 7:
Getting Started After the Blizzard
Page 19 - 21
use a blow dryer on the brake linings
use a small hand torch on the brake shoes
use a hammer to knock the ice loose from the brake drums
apply and release the service brakes repeatedly
49
Book 7
2. What is the difference between floating gears on a downshift
and an Ice Shift?
A) In an Ice Shift you float in, but clutch out of gear.
B) In an Ice Shift, RPMs are kept at the top of the horsepower range. In a
regular downshift, you come into gear in the torque range.
C) In reality, there is no difference between the two methods.
D) Both A and B are correct.
3. Which of the following is the correct method for "floating a
bridge"?
A) approach the bridge cautiously, remove foot from accelerator, and steer
straight
B) ease off the accelerator 50 RPMs prior to the bridge and pull the trailer
over the bridge
C) downshift one gear to maintain high RPMs (in the horsepower range)
while crossing the bridge
D) take the truck out of gear or push in the clutch to roll over the bridge
without acceleration
4. What are the FIRST two things you need to do in order to
recover from hydroplaning?
A) get off the accelerator and then push in the clutch
B) stab brake and then push in the clutch
C) get off the accelerator and then stab brake
D) slow down and then stab brake
50
Comment: Correct answer is D; D = .41;
Diff = .58;
Comment: Location in Book 7: Ice Shift
Page 33 - 35
Comment: Correct answer is B; D = .51 then
.58; Diff = .74
Comment: Location in Book 7: Other Winter
Driving Tips Page 45
Comment: Correct answer is A. D = .27 then
.47; Diff = .82; matches database
Comment: Location in Book 7:
Hydroplaning Page 36
Professional Apprentice Driver Series - Module C
5. In wet and snowy weather, where do you want to keep your
Comment: Correct answer is C. D =
.38 then .52; Diff = .78; matches database
on 7/15
RPMs when going up and down grades?
A) keep RPMs low, in the torque range, when going up or down hills in wet
or snowy weather
B) keep RPMs high, in the horsepower range, when going up or down hills
in wet or snowy weather
C) keep RPMs high, in the horsepower range, when going up hill and low,
in the torque range, when going down hill in wet or snowy weather
D) keep RPMs low, in the torque range, when going up hill and high, in the
horsepower range, when going down hill in wet or snowy weather
6. The Inter-axle Differential Lock (Power Divider) should NOT be
engaged when _______.
Comment: Location in Book 7: Driving
Grades in Winter − Quick Review Page
35
Comment: Correct answer A; D = .47
then .54; Diff = .78
Comment: Location in Book 7:
Managing Grades Page 27
A) any of the drive axle wheels have lost traction and are spinning
B) the vehicle is moving
C) going uphill on slick roads
D) running the engine at high RPMs (horsepower range)
7. Why should your dashboard be clear and free of clutter when
Comment: Correct answer is B. D =
.50 then .56; Diff = .73
traveling in cold weather?
A) it is a federal law
B) to make sure defroster vents are clear and hot air can circulate freely
C) to avoid adding to the problem of reflection and glare coming off snow
covered ground
D) all of the above
8. You should leave the truck idling when the outside air
Comment: Location in Book 7: When
the Snow Starts Coming Down Page 8
Comment: Correct answer is B
(ambient) temperature goes below ______ degrees
Fahrenheit?
Comment: Location in Book 7: When
to Leave the Truck Running Page 18
Comment: Camille had changed foils,
but in order to make the correct answer B
changed to these options.
A) -10
B) +20
C) +32
D) +40
51
Book 7
9. If you are driving on snowy roads and the road is posted at 65
mph, you should reduce your speed to approximately _____
mph?
Comment: Correct answer is C
Comment: Location in Book 7: When the
Snow Starts Coming Down Page 10
A) 60
B) 55
C) 32
D) 16
10. The percentage of traction the tires on your vehicle have when
stopped and on dry road is dry road is 75 percent. What is the
percent of traction the tires have when skidding on ice?
A) 50 percent
B) 10 percent
C) 1 percent
D) It depends on the speed of the vehicle when it begins to skid.
11. Which of the following statements about keeping your brakes
Comment: Location in Book 7: Traction
Page 22 - 24
Comment: Camille changed wording in
question and added percent to the end of foils.
Changes made.
Comment: Correct answer is A
from freezing is FALSE?
Comment: Location in Book 7: Pulling
Over Safely Page 14
A) spray de-icier on your brakes before you run into slush and snow
B) put slight pressure on your brakes for about 1 mile to dry them out
before pulling over
C) make sure to drain water from air system storage tanks every time you
stop for fuel and at the end of each drive shift
D) release trailer brakes and re-set after 30 minutes to brake any ice that is
forming
Comment: Camille changed question and
foils B, C and D. Changes made.
12. How can you tell the difference between wet, shiny roads and
black ice?
A) there is ice on the back of the mirrors
B) while driving in winter conditions, there is no spray coming off the
wheels of other vehicles
C) the tachometer jumps up and down without shifting or clutching
D) all of the above
52
Comment: Correct answer is C
Comment: Correct answer is D
Comment: Location in Book 7: When the
Snow Starts Coming Down Page 10
Professional Apprentice Driver Series - Module C
13. One of the rules for winter driving is to avoid double
Comment: Correct answer is C
momentum shifts. Which of the following is an example of
double momentum shift?
Comment: Location in Book 7:
Double Momentum Shift Page 26
A) only asking your vehicle to do one thing at a time
B) an Ice Shift
C) shifting during a turn
D) slowing before entering a curve and then accelerating slightly to pull the
trailer through the curve
Module Completion Call
Activity – Make a Call to Your TC
What you should do:
When you have completed all the activities in Books 5, 6 and 7, call your TC.
You will be asked a few questions to find out how your experience over the
road is going.
Practice Activities for Winter Driving
Activity – Adjusting Following Distance
At normal highway speeds on dry roads, 9 seconds is the recommended
following distance for a 72–foot semi tractor-trailer. As weather and road
conditions get worse, you need to adjust your speed and following distance
(space) to make up for the reduced visibility (sight) and poor traction. For wet
roads, you need to expand your following distance to 13 seconds and 24
seconds is recommended for slush and snow.
What you should do:
In this activity, you will practice counting off following distance at various
speeds as if you were driving on wet roads or on slush and snow.
Step 1
Pick a fixed object in the distance (an overpass, road sign, etc.).
53
Comment: This is a new question and
foils. Changes made.
Book 7
Step 2
When the vehicle ahead of you passes the object, start to count
seconds.
o One, one–thousand
o Two, one–thousand
o Three, one–thousand, etc.
Step 3
Stop counting when you pass the object.
Step 4
Adjust your following distance so that you are following no more
than 9 seconds behind the vehicle in front of you.
Step 5
Now increase your following distance to 13 seconds, as you would
for wet roads.
Step 6
Now increase your following distance to 24 seconds, as you would
for snow.
What you should notice:
Š
Š
Longer following distances are easier to maintain at slower speeds. That is
because the faster you are going the more space you need to stop.
Those 24 seconds is a LOT of following distance. You may not even be able
to see a car that is that far ahead of you. But if you have ever seen a 20–car
pile-up on slick roads, you may understand why you need that much space.
Remember that on snow it takes you much longer to stop because you have
less traction and you have to stop gently to avoid going into a skid.
Activity – Practice Winter Driving Techniques for Grades
What you should do:
As you are going up and down 3 grades, drive as if you were taking the grades
in slick weather. If you can, have someone coach you through the steps once or
twice and then you call them out as you do them two more times. Include an Ice
Shift in your practice.
Step 1
54
As you approach the upgrade, make sure your drive tires are not
spinning out and, if not, switch on your Power Divider (also called
Inter-axle Differential Lock). (Note: Engaging the Power Divider
Professional Apprentice Driver Series - Module C
when drive tires are spinning out may cause damage to the
mechanism.)
Step 2
Change lanes, if necessary, and then gear down early to avoid any
double momentum shifts when you hit the base of the hill.
Step 3
Think “Up High, Down Low” to remind yourself to keep your RPMs
high (in the horsepower range) when you are going up hill and low
(in the torque range) when you are going down hill.
Step 4
As the hill slows you down, do an Ice Shift, which allows you to
downshift without dropping the RPMs into the torque range.
Procedures for Ice Shifting
c
When your RPMs start to drop, clutch in, put the truck in
neutral, and then take your foot off the clutch.
d
Now push on the accelerator to get the RPMs all the way to the
top of the no-load governed speed.
e
At the same time, move the gearshift down to the next gear and
use your fingertips to gently press up against the gear. Do not
shove it. Just rub it up against the gate and hold it.
f
Keep your foot on the accelerator to keep the RPMs high.
g
When the truck slows down to where the road speed matches
the gear you have selected, the gearshift lever will slip into
place, smooth as silk, completing your downshift.
Step 5
Just before you crest the hill, brake a little. This does two things for
you; it tests your brakes and it lowers your RPMs into the torque
range. You may want to slow even more if you need to downshift to
be in the proper gear for the downgrade.
Step 6
Now, unless your wheels are spinning out, disengage your Power
Divider.
55
Book 7
Step 7
As you go down the grade, keep your RPMs low by applying slow,
gentle pressure to your brakes. You need to allow yourself the RPMs
and space you might need to pull your trailer back in line without
having to shift.
Step 8
And once again, avoid sudden steering changes or other double
momentum shifts.
Step 9
Part way down the grade, respond as if your trailer axle tires started
to skid and you saw the rear of your trailer drifting out of your lane to
the left.
Trailer Axle Skid Recovery
c
Get off the brakes.
d
Accelerate slightly (2–3 mph) to provide the torque needed to pull
the trailer back in line.
(Note: Do not accelerate more than a couple of mph. You cannot
“outrun” a skid by going faster. If you accelerate too much, you will
need to shift and this double momentum shift can throw you into
another type of skid.)
e
Once the trailer is back behind you, gently stab brake to slow to a
comfortable speed and get your RPMs back down into the torque
range.
Activity – Identify Safe Havens
On stretches of road where winter blizzards are common, it is a good idea to
always have a safe place to pull over in mind. With an 80,000 pound, 72 foot
long vehicle, it can sometimes be a challenge to find a safe haven to wait out a
storm. You should get in the habit of watching for paved pullouts and rest areas
that would be safe places to park your vehicle in the event of an emergency or if
you need to stop for a nap or to check a mechanical problem.
Pulling over on the shoulder of the highway can be unsafe for both you and
other vehicles. Something that happens all too frequently is for large trucks to
be hit by other vehicles when they are parked on a shoulder or in an emergency
56
Professional Apprentice Driver Series - Module C
lane. As well, a soft shoulder can result in a stuck truck or could even lead to a
rollover.
What you should do:
This activity will help you get in the habit of watching for and making notes on
safe places to park your vehicle so you will be able to find a safe haven when
you need one.
Step 1
Towards the end of your next driving shift, start watching for safe
havens.
Step 2
When you have been relieved from driving, write down the ones you
remember in the chart below.
Step 3
Stay up for a while and write down any others that you see.
Highway Direction of
Travel
Mile Marker
Type
Room to
of Stop Chain-up?
Make it a habit to notice and keep a record of safe havens on a page you tape
into your atlas or in a notebook.
Comments and Suggestions
We welcome your suggestions for improvements and additions to this book. If
you find any mistakes, such as typos or incorrect numbers or incorrect
statements, please notify us. We want to get it right for everyone. Please
forward suggestions or comments to:
Email: [email protected]
or
Qualcomm extension: 3556
57