Full-scale aerobatics are nothing compared to what you
can do with this scale model.
by Gene Monat
assembled to the sides, insert the
motor mounts and attach the first
two bulkheads to them. The bottom
of the fuselage, between the third
and fourth bulkhead is covered with
one sixteenth sheet, after which the
outside section of the bulkhead may
be added to the third former position and the nose section flanked
with soft one eighth by three eighths
strips and sanded to one sixteenth
thickness .
••
BUCKER
N
JUNGMEISTER
CONTROLINER
,
N model aviation there is almost
nothing that tops the thrill of
flying a scale model, for , to
some extent, it is like full-scale
flight. Flying a .model instead of a
real plane may be more enjoyable.
because the modeler is not only t est
pilot but designer, builder, and , indeed, the whole works!
Until the advent of controline
models, scale work was not very
practical because of the fac.t that too
few ships lent themselves to the combination of good scale appearance
and reasonable flight characteristics.
One had to be sacrificed for the
benefit of the other. Controlining
made it possible to build the model
exactly to scale without forfeiting
the slightest degree of flight performance.
This month we present the Bucker
Jungmeister, a natural for a stunting scale model. The full-scale ship
I
was flown b y most of the world's
greatest stunt pilots among whom
was . Ernst Udet, as well as being
used as a leading training ship for
the Luftwaffe. Ud et used to pick up
handkerchiefs tied to a twelve inch
pole stuck in the ground with the
lower wing tip of this ship!
Thus far we have said nothing
about its looks. W e don't have to,
for the photographs t ell a better
story than words.
The job is very simple to construct, a feat made possible by the
unique m ethods employed. Most
modelers like t o start on the fuselage first, so here's how. First, cut
out all the bulkheads from the fullsize t emplates shown. Then cut the
sides of the body from medium soft
one sixteenth sheet balsa .. Indicate
the bulkhead positions on the sheet
sides with fine lines, and start to
assemble . After the bulkheads are
OW for the wings, which actually present no problem at
all. They are of standard construction , and the drawings are self explanatory. You will notice that the
landing gear is attached to the spars
of the lower wing. It should be cemented and bound with linen or silk
to strengthen it. This is done before
the wing is assembled to the fuselage. A slot to fit the leading edge
of the wing is cut into the one sixteenth sheet covering on the bottom
of the fuselage. The wing fillets are
made from one sixteenth sheet cut
into strips five eights of an inch
wide with the grain running the
width of the strip instead of the
length. This makes them extremely
simple to install.
The headrest may be cut from a
soft block and cemented to the fuselage and the landing gear fairing cut
from soft three sixteenths sheet,
sanded to a streamlined shape and
cemented in between the landing
gear struts. Then the gear is covered with silkspan.
Well now, but for the wing struts,
you are ready for the final assembly.
The outer struts are made from one
eighth by three eighths bass wood
sanded to a streamlined shape. The
ends of the struts are left rectangular in shape to fit snugly into the
slots provided for them in tHe wing.
The inner "N" struts that attach the
wing to the fuselage are made of
•
7
+
balsa wood and are sanded to
streamlined shape.
Before attaching the upper wing,
the ignition system should be installed, making certain to solder all
connections carefully. Then the entire ship is covered with silkspan,
given a couple of coats of clear dope,
then color doped. Now assemble the
"upper wing to the rest of the ship.
"Attach the outer struts first, then
the UN" struts. Add the diagonal
wire bracing, which is made from
either thread or thin wire and grab
your paint brush for the touchingup work. You may now carefully
cut away the section of the cowling
to install your engine. And that's
that.
We take it for granted that you
have followed these simple hints
carefully and adhered closely to the
instructions on the plans so all that
you have to do now is to slip the
ship under your arm, grab the nearest gas can, and take off for the flying field where you will have hours
of fun flying your Jungmeister.
Stringers are added as indicated,
but this we don't have to tell you .
We will only give you the procedure
to make it easy for you. Notice tha t
the rear end of the fuselage is
strengthened with one sixteenth
bulkheads on top and bottom of the
sheet sides to help form the back of
the fuselage. At this point, the t a il
assembly should be made and installed. This is really a cinch. All
you have to do is cut the Rudder
8
and Stabilizer from three sixteenths
sheet balsa and sand them to a
streamlined shape. A three sixteenths dowel is set into the elevator
to stiffen it and assure the two
moving together. Make the control
horn from thin brass or aluminum
sheet and install it; be sure to cement it well. The elevator hinges are
made "from silk or linen strips and
are doped into position. And that's
all there is. Cement the tail assembly to the fuselage and add the fa iring blocks.
The control mecha nism may b e
installed at this time. To simplify
matters, a Victor Stanzel " ControlIt" unit was installed, although any
of your favorite types of control
mechanism may be used with
equally fine results. A section of the
sheet side of the fuselage is cut away
to allow the Control-It to fit in as
indicated. Then it is replaced, and
the side stringer cemented in place.
Connect the unit to the elevator
horn with one sixteenth wire as
shown.
Build the BUCKER JUNGMEISTER from the plans on
pages 20-21-22-23-24 in this
issue's FLYING MODELS
SPECIAL PLAN SECTION.
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BULKHEADS FROM 1/16"
SHEET EXCEPT WH ERE
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CELLULOID
WINDSHIELD
22
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TOP CROSS BRACE
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