Vehicle
Set Up Guide
Table of Contents
Angles and Measurements
Hinge Pin Adjustments
Page 1
Page 5
Camber
Caster
Ride Height
Page 2
Droop
Roll Centers/Camber Gain
Steering Adjustments
Page 3
Front Toe
Servo Saver
Ackermann
Bump Steer
Page 4
Steering Stops
Rear Toe
Anti-Squat
Rear Arm Length
Page 6
Wheelbase
Front Arm Sweep
Front Kick Up
Suspension Adjustments
Page 7
Damping
Pistons/Pack
Shock Oil
Shock Build
Springs
Page 8
Shock Mounting Position
Sway Bars
Differentials and Gearing
Page 9
Angles & Measurement Adjustments
Camber
Caster
Ride Height
CAMBER
Droop
Roll Centers/Camber Gain
Camber affects the car’s side traction. Generally more negative camber means
increased grip in corners since the side-traction of the wheel increases. Adjust front
camber so that the front tires wear flat. Adjust rear camber so that the rear tires wear
slightly more on the inside. The amount of front camber required to maintain the
maximum contact patch also depends on the amount of caster. Higher caster angles
(more inclined) require less negative camber, while lower caster angles (more upright)
require more negative camber.
Negative____Positive
The amount of front camber required to maintain maximum tire contact largely depends
on the amount of caster. A steeper caster angle requires more camber, while a shallower
caster angle requires less camber.
Rear Camber
Front Camber
More Negative Camber = More Steering
More Negative Camber = Decreases Traction Entering and While Cornering
Less Negative Camber = Less Steering
Less Negative Camber = Increases Rear Traction Entering and While Cornering to a Point
CASTER
15
Caster describes the angle of the front steering block with respect to a line perpendicular
to the ground. The primary purpose of having caster is to have a self-centering steering
system. Caster angle affects on- and off-power steering, as it tilts the chassis more or less
depending on how much caster is applied. It is generally recommended that you use a
steeper caster angle (more vertical) on slippery, inconsistent and rough surfaces, and use
a shallower caster angle (more inclined) on smooth, high-grip surfaces.
10
Caster has the effect of progressively leaning the front tires into the direction of the
corner. The more the caster angle is laid-back, the greater the effective camber change
when the wheels are turned. This happens because the tops of the wheels both lean
towards the inside of the corner. The wheels dig in to the corner more, counteracting the
centrifugal forces pushing the vehicle away from the corner.
The amount of front camber required to maintain maximum tire contact largely depends on the amount of caster. A steeper caster angle requires
more camber, while a shallower caster angle requires less camber.
Total caster angle is dependent on the front kick up angle and inner hinge pin inserts. You would need to add the front kick up angle with the
inner hinge pin insert used and the caster angle on the spindle carriers to determine the total caster (ie: 11 deg front kick up + .5 deg double dot
insert downwards +15 deg caster blocks = 26.5 deg total caster angle)
Less Caster
More Caster
Decreased Straight Line Stability
Increased Straight Line Stability
Increased Off-Power Steering at Corner Entry
Decreased Off-Power Steering at Corner Entry
Increased Suspension Efficiency
More Stable Through Bumpy/Rutted Sections
RIDE HEIGHT
Ride height is the height of the chassis in relation to
the surface it is sitting on with the vehicle ready to
run (full of fuel or with battery installed). Ride height
affects the vehicles traction since it alters the vehicles
center of gravity and roll center. Differences in ride
height determine the vehicles attitude (angle of the
chassis from front to rear), which can effect how it
jumps and lands.
Decreased Ride Height
Increased Ride Height
Increases Overall Stability
Decreases Overall Stability
Better Suited for Smooth Tracks
Better Suited for Bumpy Rough Tracks
More Front Ride Height
(or less rear)
More Rear Ride Height
(or less front)
Increases Weight Transfer to the
Rear End On-Power
Increases Weight Transfer to the
Front End Off-Power
Increases Stability
Decreases Rear Traction
Decreases Steering
Increases Steering
Lowers Nose Angle During Flight/Jumps
Use the shock pre-load collars to raise and lower the
ride height. It should be checked with a specific ride
height measuring tool. Measurements should be
taken from the flat part of the chassis, front and rear
(measurethe front ride height before the kick up in
the chassis starts). To measure, first drop the vehicle
from about 6 inches on a flat surface. After the
suspension settles, a measurement is taken.
1
Angles & Measurement Adjustments
Camber
Caster
Ride Height
DROOP
Droop
Roll Centers/Camber Gain
Droop is the measured amount of down travel in the suspension. It is measured from
the shocks mounting points and is adjusted by turning the droop screw located in the
suspension arms front/rear. This screw limits the suspension travel by providing a
stopping point against the chassis. Both left and right sides of the vehicle should be
adjusted to have the same amount of droop, however the front and rear of the vehicle
can have different values. Droop affects all aspects of chassis performance, including:
braking, acceleration, jumping, traction and rough track handling.
More suspension travel makes the vehicle more responsive but less stable and is typically
better on a bumpy track or on a track with slow corners. This allows the chassis to “pitch”
rearward or forward more under acceleration or braking, which results in more weight
transfer.
Less suspension travel makes the vehicle more stable and is typically better on a smooth
track. This prevents the chassis from “pitching” rearward or forward too much under
acceleration or braking, which results in less weight transfer.
More Front Droop
Less Front Droop
More Rear Droop
Less Rear Droop
Allows Front End to Rise More on Acceleration
Less Rearward Weight Transfer
Less Stable Under Braking
Less Forward Weight Transfer
More Rearward Weight Transfer
Better on Smooth Tracks
Increases Steering on Corner Entry
May Bottom Out on Big Jumps
Increases Rear Traction on Corner Exit
More On-Power Steering
More Turn In
More Responsive During Direction Changes
Better on Bumpy Tracks
More Responsive During Direction Changes
Better on Bumpy Tracks
Better on Smooth Tracks
ROLL CENTERS/CAMBER GAIN
Roll center is a theoretical point around which the chassis rolls and is determined by the
design of the suspension. Front and rear suspensions normally have different roll centers.
The “roll axis” is the imaginary line between the left and right side of the vehicle. The amount that a chassis rolls in a corner depends on the
position of the roll axis relative to the vehicles center-of-gravity (CG). The closer the roll axis is to the center of gravity, the less the chassis will
roll in a corner. A lower roll center will generally produce more grip due to the chassis rolling, and the outer wheel “digging in” more. Rollcenters have an immediate effect on a vehicles handling, whereas anti-roll bars, shocks and springs require the vehicle to roll before they
produce an effect.
Roll center is determined by the vehicles suspension geometry. Each end of the vehicle has its own roll center, determined
by the suspension geometry at that respective end. Camber gain is the adjustment determined by the length of the camber link in relation
to the inboard and outboard hinge pins. A camber link that is shorter than the distance between the hinge pins will produce a negative
camber effect as the suspension is compressed. A camber link that is exactly the same length as the distance between the hinge pins will
produce no camber change as the suspension is compressed.
(rear)
(front)
More
More
Camber Gain
Camber Gain
Less
Less
Shorter Camber Link
More Camber Gain
More Steering Entering Corner
Less Stability Entering Corner
More Traction
Longer Camber Link
Less Camber Gain
More Stability
Slows Down Vehicle Response
Front Camber Links
Rear Camber Links
Shock Tower Upper Holes (Lower Roll Center)
Shock Tower Upper Holes (Lower Roll Center)
More Steering Entering Corners
More Responsive
Shock Tower Lower Holes (Higher Roll Center)
Less Steering Entering Corners
Less Responsive
Best in High Grip Conditions
Less Rear Traction Entering Corner
More Steering Entering Corner
More Stable Mid Corner and Exiting Corner
Shock Tower Lower Holes (Higher Roll Center)
More On Power Traction
Use to Avoid Traction Rolling Entering Corner
Use Under Low Traction Conditions
2
Steering Adjustments
Front Toe
Servo Saver
FRONT TOE
Toe
Toe
Out____In
In____Out
Ackermann
Bump Steer
Steering Stops
Toe in and toe out are terms used to describe the angle in which the wheels
point when looking down at them from the top of the vehicle. Toe is used to
stabilize the vehicle at the expense of traction. Front wheels can be toed in or
out to suit various situations. Rear wheels should only have varying degrees
of toe in.
Toe can be Adjusted at Either End of a Suspension Arm
Inboard toe is adjusted by altering the angle of the suspension arm at the inner
hinge pin. It is measured in degrees and changed with various hinge pin inserts.
On the front of the vehicle this is also called “sweep”.
Outboard toe is adjusted in two ways: at the front by adjusting the length of the
steering rods or at the rear by changing outer rear hub carrier inserts (if available).
Front Toe In Adjustment
Front Toe Out Adjustment
Makes Vehicle Easier to Drive
Increases Steering Entering Corners
Less Initial Turn-In (less twitchy)
Faster Steering Response
Better for High Traction Rutted Surfaces
Less Stable Under Acceleration
Makes Vehicle Less Easy to Drive
SERVO SAVER
Servo savers are designed to protect the steering servo in a crash, but they are also a valuable tuning option as well.
ACKERMANN
Tighter Servo Saver
Looser Servo Saver
More Steering Response
Less Responsive Steering
Faster Steering Response
Slower Steering Response
More Abusive to Steering Servo
More Protection to Steering Servo
Ackermann adjustments effect the vehicles steering response and ackermann effect.
Ackermann effect is the phenomenon where the inside wheel turns more than the
outside wheel at full turn. The further towards the rear of the vehicle you attach the
steering link, the more ackermann effect can be seen. The further towards the front
of the vehicle you attach the steering link, the less ackermann effect can be seen
(both wheels turn closer to the same amount. The more ackermann a vehicle has
increases the amount of steering while entering a corner at the cost of some traction.
BUMP STEER
Further Forward
Further Rearward
Slows initial Steering Response
Quickens Initial Steering Response
Smooths Out Overall Steering
Overall Steering Reacts Quicker
Better for Smooth Tracks with Fast Corners
Better for Small Tight Tracks
Bump steer is a front suspension tuning option commonly used to change steering characteristics
over rough and loose terrain. Bump steer occurs when a vehicles front toe angle changes as the
suspension compresses or rebounds, which affects how parallel the front wheels are.
Adjusting bump steer is done by changing the angle of the steering link. This is accomplished by
adding or removing washers from the ball studs attached to the ackermann plate and steering
spindles. By the same means, you can also flip the ball stud to further adjust the angle.
When your vehicle is properly set up, it should have the bump steer set for the least amount of
bump possible (or zero bump) for the most consistent handling on most tracks.
Less
More
More Bump Steer
Less Bump Steer (more neutral)
Increased steering Mid-Corner
Decreases Steering Mid-Corner
Steering May Be Twitchy/Inconsistent
Smoother/More Consistent Steering
Easier to Control on Smooth Tracks
Better on Rough or Bumpy Tracks
3
Steering Adjustments
Front Toe
STEERING STOPS
Servo Saver
Ackermann
Bump Steer
Steering Stops
Steering stops simply limit the amount of steering travel and are more accurate at
accomplishing this than radio adjustments due to the fact that they are finite. If you
set up your end points travel adjustments via your radio, the steering can still travel
beyond this in corners when the force of the vehicle can push the servo saver beyond
the radio setting.
4
Hinge Pin Adjustments
Rear Toe
Anti-Squat
Rear Arm Length
REAR TOE
Toe
Toe
Out____In
Out____In
Wheelbase
Front Arm Sweep
Front Kick Up
Toe in and toe out are terms used to describe the angle in which the
wheels point when looking down at them from the top of the vehicle.
Toe is used to stabilize the vehicle at the expense of traction. Front
wheels can be toed in or out to suit various situations. Rear wheels
should only have varying degrees of toe in.
Toe can be Adjusted at Either End of a Suspension Arm
Inboard toe is adjusted by altering the angle of the suspension arm
at the inner hinge pin. It is measured in degrees and changed with
various hinge pin inserts. On the front of the vehicle this is also called
"sweep".
Outboard toe is adjusted in two ways: at the front by adjusting the
length of the steering rods or at the rear by changing outer rear hub
carrier inserts (if available).
More Rear Toe In
Less Rear Toe In
Increases Understeer
Less Stable On-Power/ Through Corner Exit
and During Braking
More Stable On-Power/ Through Corner Exit
and During Braking
Less Chance of Loosing Rear Traction
More Chance of Loosing Rear Traction
Increased Top Speed
Decreased Top Speed
ANTI-SQUAT
Rear anti-squat is the angle of the rear lower suspension arm when viewed
from the side of the vehicle. With anti-squat the back of the arm is lower than
the front of the arm. Rear anti-squat is used as a tuning aid primarily when a
vehicle needs to run a soft rear spring but also has a tendency for the rear end
to squat down too much under acceleration. An added benefit of rear antisquat is quicker initial acceleration at the start of a race. In order to prevent
100% of the vehicles weight transfer force from being exerted onto the soft
rear springs, anti-squat is used to allow a certain percentage of the weight
transfer to be absorbed by the rear lower arm motion.
Rear Arm
REAR ARM LENGTH
Less Anti-Squat
More Anti-Squat
More Rear Traction Off Power
More Rear Traction During Acceleration
Less Rear Traction On-Power
Less Rear Traction Off Power
Better On Bumpier Tracks
Better on Smooth High Grip Tracks
Rear arm length can be adjusted on our kits to suit various driving
styles or track conditions by simply moving the rear outer hinge pin.
This will change the point in which the rear hub will articulate.
Short Arm Position
Long Arm Position
Less Stable
More Stable
Quicker Rear End Rotation
Slower Rear End Rotation
Slightly Better Bump Handling
(short)
(long)
5
Hinge Pin Adjustments
Rear Toe
Anti-Squat
Rear Arm Length
WHEELBASE
Front
1mm
2mm
Rear
2mm
Wheelbase
Front Arm Sweep
Front Kick Up
Changes to wheelbase can have a dramatic effect on the handling of your
vehicle, since it adjusts the distribution of weight on the rear wheels, which
adjusts traction. By shortening the wheelbase at the rear of the vehicle, your
placing more weight over the rear wheels, which results in more rear
traction). By lengthening the wheelbase, the vehicle feels more stable and
the longer vehicle handles bumpy section easier.
Changing the wheelbase also changes the amount of sweep the rear
driveshaft will have. More driveshaft sweep creates an effect similar to
anti-squat, where the rear end of the vehicle gets pushed upwards on
throttle. This allows you to land larger jumps on-power with less chance
of bottoming out.
To make changes, all that you have to do is move the spacers around on the rear hinge pin. There are 1mm spacers and 2mm spacers, along
with 5mm of empty space around the rear hub. This allows for 6 different settings that can be achived to vary the amount of total wheelbase.
Shorter Wheelbase (rear hub further to the front)
Longer Wheelbase (rear hub further to the rear)
Increases Rearward Weight Transfer During Acceleration
Decreases Off-Power Steering in to Corners
Increases On-Power Traction
Increases Stability
Quicker Off-Power Steering Entering Corners
Slower Off-Power Steering Entering Corners
Tendency to Push On-Power Exiting Corners
Improves On-Power Steering Exiting Corners
Increases Steering Response
Better Bump Handling
Better Large Open Tracks with High Speed Corners
FRONT ARM SWEEP
The purpose of sweeping the arm forward or backward is mostly to sweep the
driveshafts forward or backward. When the driveshafts are angled it changes how
the car reacts on and off power.
With less front arm sweep, the stub axles are being twisted down toward the
ground, pushing down on the tires and lifting the front of the chassis. This can
be helpful in really bumpy sections to keep the front up and not dig in. It will
also create more weight transfer to the front during braking which will increase
your off-power steering.
With more front arm sweep, the stub axles are being twisted up, lifting the tires
and pushing the chassis down. We've found that the biggest benefit to more arm
sweep is jump landing. With the arms back, the vehicle settles much faster which
allows you to get on the throttle quicker. During breaking and off throttle the
front end will drop less and either feel "pushy" or more controlled into the corner.
More Front Arm Sweep
FRONT KICK UP
Less Front Arm Sweep
More Control Entering Corner
More Off-Power Steering
Better Jump Landing
More Weight Transfer Under Braking
Better On Smooth High Grip Tracks
Better on Bumpier Tracks
Front kick-up is used to adjust the amount of weight transfer to the front
when the vehicle is off-throttle or under braking. Changing the front kick
up angle also changes the caster angle (see Caster section).
More Kick Up
Less Kick Up
More Weight Transfer Under Braking
Less Weight Transfer Under Braking
Front End Drops More Under Braking
Front End Drops Less Under Braking
Handling Improved on Bumpy tracks
Handling is improved on Smooth Tracks
Decreased Steering Response
Increased Steering Response
6
Suspension Adjustments
Daming
Pistons/Pack
Shock Oil
Shock Build
Springs
Shock Mounting Position
Sway Bars
DAMPING
Shock damping manages the resistance of shock movement as the shock piston moves through the shock oil. Damping
comes into play when the suspension is moving (either vertical movement or chassis movement or due to chassis roll). When the shock is
compressing or rebounding, the shock oil resists the movement of the piston through it. The amount of resistance is affected by several factors.
• Viscosity (thickness) of the shock oil
• Restriction of oil fl ow through the piston (affected by the number of holes in the piston and the hole diameter)
• Velocity (speed) of the piston
PISTONS/PACK
Shock pistons come in a variety of hole size/number of holes variations. The size of the holes or number of holes
affect shock damping by altering the flow of oil through the holes. More holes or larger holes give softer
damping. Fewer holes or smaller holes give harder damping.
Pack: The faster the piston travels through it’s stroke, the thicker the oil will feel. This phenomenon becomes more
pronounced with smaller piston holes and is called “pack”.
Smaller Piston Holes
Increase the pack of the shock, which is better suited to big-jump tracks where you will often land on the flat
surface and not the down side of the jump. It slows the shock stroke on compression and rebound and is not well
suited to very bumpy tracks.
Larger Piston Holes
Decrease the pack of the shock, which is better suited to bumpy tracks and jump sections where you land on the
down side of the jump. Compression and rebound are faster.
SHOCK OIL
Shock oil is rated with a “viscosity” number that indicates the thickness of the oil. This determines how much resistance
is given to the shock piston as it travels through the stroke. Typically you should use piston hole sizes to suit the track conditions rather than
alter the oil viscosity. Start by determining the ideal amount of pack nessesary for your track and use an oil viscosity to suit that piston. Shock
oil is also effected by the cold/hot varience of external weather conditions and must be changed to accomidate that varience.
SHOCK BUILD
Standard
The standard build is the most common and widely used shock building method for 1/8th
scale shocks. It employs the use of bladder sitting on top of the assembly that compensates
for the volume of the shock shaft as it enters the shock body, traveling in to the oil. Because
the shock cap is sealed in this build, there is pressure being formed in the air space on top
of the bladder as the shock is compressed.
Vented
The vented build is also a very common method of building 1/8th scale shocks. It also
employs a bladder sitting on top of the assembly that compensates for the volume of the
shock shaft as it enters the shock body, traveling in to the oil. The only difference is that the
shock cap has a very small hole or “vent” in the top that allows air to escape as the shock is
compressed. This hole alleviates any pressure building up and has less rebound effect than
the standard build.
Emulsion
The emulsion build is the least common shock building method for 1/8th scale shocks. It employs a special shock cap that has an angled
bleeder hole with a screw and seal (TKR6018). It does not use a bladder and instead only uses a black o-ring to seal the top cap to the shock
body. This method…
SPRINGS
LENGTH
WIRE DIA.
Spring tension determines how much the shock resists compression, which is commonly referred to as the “hardness”
of the spring. Different spring tensions determine how much of the vehicles weight is transferred to the wheel relative
to the other shocks. Spring tension also influences the speed at which a shock rebounds after compression. Spring
tension is usually rated in a “spring weight” ; higher spring weights are stiffer, while lower spring weights are softer.
Softer Springs
Stiffer Springs
More Chassis Roll
Less Chassis Roll
More Traction
Less Traction
Better On Bumpier Tracks
More Responsive
Increases Chance of Bottoming Out
COILS
Better on Smooth Tracks
Decreases Chance of Bottoming Out
7
Suspension Adjustments
Daming
Pistons/Pack
Shock Oil
SHOCK MOUNTING POSITIONS
Less Lean
Shock Build
Springs
Shock Mounting Position
Sway Bars
You can manipulate the handling characteristics of the vehicle by changing the
shock mounting position. Leaning the shocks at different angles and moving the
shock closer or further from the centerline of the vehicle will have different effects
on handling.
More Lean
Less Lean
More Lean
Harder Dampening
Softer Initial Dampening
More Linear Dampening
More Progressive Dampening Through Entire Stroke
Less Side Traction
More Side Traction
More Responsive
More Forgiving Handling
Better Suited for Technical Tracks
Better for High Bite Tracks
Easier to Drive
Front Shock Tower Mounting Positions
Inner Holes
Outer Holes
FRONT
Easier to Drive
Faster Steering
More Side Bite
Better on Bumps and Jumps
Slower Initial Dampening
Front Arm Mounting Positions
Inner Holes
Outer Holes
Faster Steering
Increases Stability
Better on Bumps and Jumps
Easier to Drive
Bigger Turning Radius
Rear Shock Tower Mounting Positions
Inner Holes
Outer Holes
More Steering Entering Corner
More Traction Entering Corner
More Mid-Corner Grip
REAR
Less Mid-Corner Grip
Squares Up Rear End Better on Exit
Rear Arm Mounting Positions
Inner Holes
Outer Holes
Better for Bumps and Jumps
More Stability
Less Side Bite
More Lateral Grip in Turns
More Traction on Corner Exit
SWAY BARS
Sway bars are used to adjust a vehicles side (lateral) grip. They can also be used in conjunction with a
softer spring rate to handle bumpy tracks more efficiently without excessive chassis roll at mid-corner.
Sway bars resist chassis roll and by doing so transfer wheel load from the inside wheel to the outside
wheel. The stiffer the sway bar, the more load is transferred. However, as the outside wheel is not able to
convert the extra wheel load into extra grip, the sum of the grip of both wheels is actually reduced.
Increasing the stiffness of an sway bar on one particular end of the vehicle (front or rear) decreases the
side grip that end will have and increases the side grip of the other end of the vehicle.
The overall traction of a vehicle cannot be changed, but it can be balanced by distributing wheel loads.
Sway bars are a useful tool to change the balance of the vehicle. Chassis stiffness plays an important role in
the effectiveness of sway bars, and a stiffer chassis makes the vehicle more responsive to sway bar changes.
The front sway bar affects mainly off-power steering at corner entry. The rear sway bar affects mainly onpower steering and stability in mid-corner and at corner exit.
Front Sway Bar
Rear Sway Bar
Thinner
Thicker
Thinner
Thicker
Increases Front Chassis Roll
Decreases Front Chassis Roll
Increases Rear Chassis Roll
Decreases Chassis Roll
Decreases Rear Traction
Increases Front Traction
Decreases Front Traction
Increases Rear Traction
Decreases Rear Traction
Decreases Off-Power Steering Entering Corner
Decreases Front Traction
Increases Front Traction
Increases Off-Power Steering
Quicker Steering Response
Decreases On-Power Steering
Increases On-Power Steering
8
Differentials and Gearing Recommendations
Differential Adjustments
DIFFERENTIAL ADJUSTMENTS
Gearing Recommendations
Front Differential
Thinner front diff oil will increase off power steering however going too thin can cause the
steering to become inconsistent and cause a lack of forward traction out of turns on power.
Thicker front diff oil increases on power steering and add stability (slight push) into turns
but if you go too thick it will decrease off power steering.
Center Differential
Thicker center diff oil mostly increases the power to the rear more than the front. Typically
a balance is achievable to have the front and rear end of the vehicle powered the same,
however sometimes you want the vehicle to drive from the front more than the rear and
this is the case when you would want a thinner center diff oil to increase the drive of the
front end of the vehicle.
Rear Differential
Thinner rear diff oil increases off power steering and rear traction however going too thin
can cause the steering and traction to become inconsistent and grabby. Thicker rear diff
oil decreases off power steering.
Changing front diff oil affects overall steering response.
Changing center diff oil affects the front-to-rear drive.
Changing rear diff oil affects cornering traction and overall steering.
Front Diff Oil
Thinner Oil
More Steering
Entering Corners
Off Power
Less Traction
Exiting Corners
On Power
Center Diff Oil
Thicker Oil
More Traction
Entering Corners
Off Power
More Steering
Exiting Corners
On Power
GEARING RECOMMENDATIONS
Vehicle
Thinner Oil
More Steering
Off Power
Better Suited to
Rough Tracks
Front Wheels Unload
Thicker Oil
More Steering
On Power
Better Suited to
Smooth Tracks
Better Acceleration
Rear Diff Oil
Thinner Oil
More Corner
Traction
More Steering
Entering Corners
Thicker Oil
Less Corner
Traction
Less Wheelspin
Finding the proper gearing can be easy if you follow the steps and recommendations below.
Start with a proper tooth size as shown below for you particular situation and if you need
more speed go up one tooth at a time. If you motor is getting too hot, this may not be an
issue with the vehicle being over geared, even an undergeared electric motor can get hot.
Finding the “sweet” spot for your particular situation is ideally what you want.
Motor
Small Track
(50-100 ft Straight)
Medium Track
Large Track
(100-150 ft Straight) (150-200 ft Straight)
SCT410
4000-4600kv
14 - 15 tooth
15 - 16 tooth
16 - 17 tooth
(2 cell)
4600-5400kv
13 - 14 tooth
14 - 15 tooth
15 - 16 tooth
EB48
1900-2050kv
15 - 16 tooth
16 - 17 tooth
17 - 18 tooth
(4 cell)
2050-2200kv
14 - 15 tooth
15 - 16 tooth
16 - 17 tooth
ET48
1800-2000kv
13 - 14 tooth
14 - 15 tooth
15 - 16 tooth
(4 cell)
2000-2200kv
12 - 13 tooth
13 - 14 tooth
14 - 15 tooth
NB48
.21
14 tooth
15 tooth
15 tooth
NT48
.21-.28
13 tooth
13 tooth
13 tooth
9