Call
of the ild
Iroshini Chua and her family join
the Great Migration, kiss giraffes,
dance with the Maasai people and
“glamp” it up in an epic voyage
across East Africa. Photos by
Kevin and iroshini Chua
39 6 singapor e tatler . september 2014
D
eep within the plains
of the Serengeti, a lioness
lays waiting. Ears pricked,
she stares purposefully
ahead. A spine-chilling
sight! Like an archer
drawing her bow before
spearing the prey, she crouches down low,
almost hidden by the tall grass gently swaying
around her. The mighty lioness launches herself at the unsuspecting wildebeest, bringing
it down within moments. She sinks her teeth
into the hapless animal’s neck as it flails its
limbs in the air in a desperate attempt to
escape and lets out heart-rending wails.
Fifteen minutes pass as the wildebeest lays
bleeding on the Serengeti floor while the
lioness calls for her cubs to finish the task.
Then miraculously, the wildebeest gets up
and charges recklessly at the lioness! Twice!
The bewildered predator recedes and the
singapor e tatler . september 2014 injured wildebeest limps off to safety, away
from the perilous pride of lions.
I had dreamt of visiting Africa ever since I
learnt that my great-grandfather had lived in
Tanzania for years at a stretch. And now, as I
witnessed this incredible wildlife spectacle a
mere few metres from the safety of our jeep in
the Serengeti, the flinchingly raw reality of
my dream sank in. This is Africa!
My epic family voyage through East
Africa took us first to Nairobi in Kenya then
to Serengeti National Park, Ngorongoro
Conservation Area and Zanzibar in Tanzania,
following an itinerary planned by Country
Holidays. Six months before, I had met
the team of travel specialists, who travel
extensively to Africa. With their first-hand
knowledge of various destinations in the
continent, they crafted a bespoke experience
that fulfilled all my desires as well as my
family’s requirements.
397
Wild boar roam freely
among the giraffes
Breakfast companions
lane
rtered p
Our cha
the Gentle Giants
“Jambo!” The cheerful staff greeted us as we
arrived at Giraffe Manor, one of Nairobi’s
most iconic buildings located in the outskirts
of Nairobi. We were just in time for a
breakfast with some very special guests that
our children will likely remember for years to
come. Magnificent Rothschild giraffes craned
their necks, bowing down through oversized
windows to hover over us for a treat. Only
around 700 of this rare species are left in the
wild, so it was a privilege to encounter this
resident herd of 10 roaming freely around the
140-acre property.
Over the course of the meal, we had a
glimpse into the different personalities of
each member. We gazed into their gentle
eyes framed by long lashes and were utterly
fascinated when some of them eagerly
responded to their names. As my children
Jorim and Aiyana giggled and chatted, and
hugged and kissed—yes, kissed!—the giraffes,
I knew that the deep, intimate experiences
on our African adventure would have a great
effect on us as individuals and on our view of
the environment.
Built as a private home in 1932, Giraffe
Manor is an exclusive and elegant abode
reminiscent of the early days when Europeans
first flocked to East Africa for safaris. Behind
its stately facade lie just 10 bedrooms, each
with unique layouts. Our lofty suite, “Karen
Blixen”, named after the author of Out of
Africa, delighted us with its four-poster beds,
cosy fireplace, eclectic art deco touches and
antique furnishings.
A mid-morning stroll across the lawn
brought us to the African Fund for
Endangered Wildlife Giraffe Centre, where
we uncovered the history of the Rothschild
giraffe. We learnt that from 1974, Giraffe
Manor was the home of Jock and Betty LeslieMelville, whose lifelong ambition was the
preservation of this beautiful and threatened
species of giraffe.
As we sat for an alfresco lunch in the
shadow of the Ngong Hills, I recalled the
words of Karen Blixen in Out of Africa. “I
had a farm in Africa at the foot of the Ngong
Hills...,” she wrote. Right then, I felt blissfully
far from the trappings of everyday life. That
afternoon, we fed the giraffes yet again.
Revelling in the picture-perfect moment, my
husband Kevin mused, “This is a good place
for family bonding.”
Flamingos at Lake Manyara
The Greatest Show
on Earth
We arrived at the Grumeti Airstrip in the
remote western reaches of Serengeti in
Tanzania. A short drive, dodging the resident
herd of wildebeests and zebras, brought us
to andBeyond Grumeti Serengeti Tented
Camp nestled among soaring evergreen trees
on a by-water of the Grumeti River. It was a
balmy afternoon in early June.
“The migration has been early this year
due to the lack of rain. They crossed the
Grumeti river right here last week but we are
expecting another large herd any time now,”
Musa the lodge manager told us. I kept my
hopes up on the following day’s game drive,
knowing we were ideally situated near one
of the most famous fording points of the
wildebeest migration. Qamberali, our guide,
assured us with a quiet confidence that he
would locate the herds and drive us to them
in the morning.
Musa, meanwhile, introduced us to our
butler and team, and went on to explain
that andBeyond operated with deeply
entrenched social and conservation
principles, as well as a model of
responsible luxury experiential tourism.
The values and ethics of andBeyond
entail care of the land, the wildlife and
the people.
image: andBeyond
great outdoors Grumeti Serengeti Tented Camp
What’s left of the wildebeest
after the lion cubs are fed
Spotted: the
elusive leopard
Grazing zebras
wary of human
presence
Mummy and
baby hippos
Rustic yet refined, andBeyond Grumeti
Serengeti Tented Camp echoed the natural
beauty of the spectacular setting. All 10 of
the spacious and flamboyant safari tented
suites looked out onto the Grumeti River
and its resident pods of hippo. Inside, vibrant
African designs featuring multicoloured
African cloths, hand-blown Kenyan glassware
and local sculptured furnishings captivated.
Sliding doors opened onto shaded private
decks that overlooked the strip of riverine
forest and the antics of the resident hippo in
the tranquil lagoon in front of the camp.
Kevin and I ventured to the domed bar for
cocktails while the kids navigated the blanket
of stars under the tutelage of Qamberali.
As night descended, we were enticed by
mouthwatering pan-African fare prepared on
traditional jikos (fires) and outdoor ovens of
the traditional African Boma.
Strolling back, we saw the wide bottom of
a hippo swaying from side to side as it walked
Shades of nature
past our tent. A faint giggle was met with a
firm “Shhh!” As the lights went out and I lay
tucked within the confines of modern-day
luxuries, I could hardly believe that I was in
a remote African jungle were it not for the
grunting serenade of the hippos, the clawing
of the monkeys on our tent and the repeated
call of the hyenas.
Serengeti National Park is easily Tanzania’s
most celebrated national park spanning
14,763sqkm of protected area that borders
Kenya’s Maasai Mara Game Park. In terms
of scenic grandeur and the unrestricted
movements of large animals, Serengeti or
“Endless Plains” is really the most magnificent
landscape in the continent. Exceptional
birdlife rule the sky here, so the kids,
equipped with a “star bird” list provided by
the andBeyond team, were constantly on the
lookout for birds indigenous to the region.
They eagerly discussed their “goals” and game
plan for the day with Qamberali our guide and
Erik the ranger.
Barely an hour into our first game drive, we
already encountered leaping impalas, clusters
of topi (an antelope species), a family of
Maasai giraffes, a bachelor herd of Thompson
gazelles, groups of baboons grooming each
other, sparring buffalos, a herd of elephants
that crossed the road before us and herds of
grazing zebras staring warily at us. The kids
busily ticked their list of sightings and listened
intently as the guides shared their wealth of
animal knowledge. Shortly after, Eric spotted
the pride of lions and the wildebeest that
had earlier miraculously escaped the lioness
after being almost fatally injured. As we left
the scene, we noticed a spotted hyena hidden
Elephant calves
rolling in mud
An endless chain
of wildebeests
amidst the shooting blonde grass. It seemed
that the wildebeest’s troubles might not be
over after all. By nightfall, packs of hungry
hyenas hunt the weak and vulnerable.
Every year, in June and July, Africa’s
renowned Great Migration passes through the
Grumeti region and hundreds upon thousands
of wildebeest, zebra and other herbivores
cross the Grumeti River, risking the jaws
of some of Africa’s largest crocodiles. The
Great Migration is lauded as one the greatest
wildlife shows on the planet where more than
two million land animals make the seasonal
journey to green pastures to the north, then
the south after the biannual rains.
Just then, there was grunting followed by
thick red dust swirling into the air, raised
by the animals’ thundering hooves. All of
a sudden, the migrating herds appeared!
We drove for more than an hour beside the
seemingly endless chain of wildebeests.
Aiyana was busy
swatting away at the
The Luxe Guide tse-tse flies but when
she did look up, her
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Swahili that followed
402 the crackle of the car radio as it came to
life and Eric’s trained eyes that constantly
swept the terrain assured us that we had
the best seats in the wildlife theatre.
Back at the camp later, we took a
refreshing dip in the rim-flow swimming
pool. In between, we were interrupted by
loud snorts from the hippo pod before us,
which sent the kids roaring with laughter.
The afternoon game drive brought us to
the banks of Grumeti River, home to some
of the largest crocodiles in Africa. Grumeti
is also the only area in Tanzania that is home
to the black-and-white colobus monkey that
peered at us through the thick foliage.
We parked on the fringe of Masira Hills
overlooking the plains flooded in golden
sunlight. The quintessentially African sunset
over the Serengeti exceeded all picture
postcard expectations. Downhill, a picnic
table was set in the midst of the plains,
beckoning us to drink in the dramatic
unfolding of colours and serenity, with
a glass of wine in hand.
GLAMPING IT UP
The next morning, we were whisked away
through the central Serengeti to andBeyond
Serengeti Under Canvas. The luxurious tented
camp comprises of just nine tents moving
around the park five times, all year-round,
anticipating the movements of the Great
Migration and exploring the resident game.
Our camp was sited in Seronera where the
far-reaching plains and endless grass tinged
with the twisted shadows of acacia trees have
made it the archetypal image of a wild and
unsullied Africa.
singapor e tatler . september 2014
Romantic sunset
Meerkats
on alert
We were shown into a sensational luxuryladen family tent. Chandeliers, Indian rugs,
crisp white linen, polished brass and sparkling
crystal adorned the spacious interior while
an en-suite bathroom comprised of a separate
WC and alfresco his-and-her bucket showers
with hot water to boot. The outdoor sitting
area was clad with wood furnishings, leather
upholstery and brass washbasins reminiscent
of a bygone era steeped in romance. It was
like a scene from Out of Africa.
We were spoilt by our personal butler:
bucket showers were topped up with hot
water before sunrise, tea quietly served in
bed, laundry cleaned and neatly folded, and
cocktails and other indulgences. The menu of
the day was whatever-you-fancy, whereveryou-like it. So we quickly adopted the habit
of breezy breakfasts in the bush, decadent
lunches on silver plates and crystal glassware
in chandeliered tents, and dinners fringed
with flaming tiki torches around bonfires. On
some nights, a rustling from the trees behind
us announced an emerging herd of zebras that
singapor e tatler . september 2014 quietly ambled past our dinner table—this
epitomised the romance of Africa.
Driving through the central Serengeti, our
movements were watched intently by a herd
of buffalos with noses defiantly stuck in the
air, willing us to approach them. A pair of
ostriches tossed their heads and sauntered
off, while a troop of mongoose stood dead
straight on their hind legs, munching away.
We stumbled upon a herd of African elephants
with lengthy ivory tusks moving almost in
slow motion. Engines off, we silently watched
the calf taking cues from its parents and
rolling in the mud pool until it was completely
covered by the thick black mud.
Aiyana had two requests for Seph, our
new wilderness guide: a cheetah and leopard
sighting before the day was done. The
cheetah usually sits atop a molehill to scan
the bluff for its prey and we lucked upon one
before long. The elusive leopard was harder
to spot. Seph peered intently through his
binoculars past some baobab trees and an
umbrella-thorn tree. A lion was climbing the
lower branches to reach at a Grant gazelle
that had met its end and had been skilfully
placed higher up by its predator. After a while
the lion gave up the climb and commenced to
lick its paws. Alas! No leopard in sight!
There was another false alarm of a leopard
sighting during the afternoon game drive.
Later, we decided to revisit the site of the
leopard kill, only to discover that the leopard
had not returned to claim its gazelle. “Seph,
I have never seen a leopard before, let’s not
give up too easily,” pleaded Aiyana. Darkness
and rain were descending upon us and I was
fast losing hope. Seph continued to scan the
horizon until finally, he pointed excitedly at
a tree. A leopard was carrying its kill up the
tree! Seph exclaimed, “I really wanted to see
the leopard today like never before because of
little Aiyana!” Our day was complete!
dining out
Lunch under
a tent at
andBeyond
Serengeti
Under Canvas
40 3
image: the rock
Meeting the Maasai
A chartered flight brought us to the verdant
banks of Lake Manyara, and we headed off
to Ngorongoro conservation area, a fully
integrated region that embraces the needs of
the Maasai people, wildlife conservation, and
the development of ecotourism.
Piercing through the swirling mist, we
arrived at the crater rim in our open jeep.
Here on, everything took our breath away!
The crater floor is a dazzling expanse some
600m below with a glittering soda water lake
flushed in pink framed by lush vegetation and
a highland forest. Perched on the edge of the
crater with jaw-dropping views of the crater
floor is andBeyond Ngorongoro Crater Lodge,
one of Africa’s most sensational lodges.
As our butler Joachim welcomed us into
our family suite, the opulence of our abode
momentarily overwhelmed me. The Maasai
manyatta-inspired stilted thatched suite was
adorned with imposing chandeliers, exquisite
wooden panels, crimson drapes, Persian
carpets, gilt mirrors, antiques and African
treasures. A crystal decanter filled with
brandy gleamed beside the fireplace. A carpet
of flower petals led to a luxurious bubble
bath. Joachim had become indispensable.
Before long, I was soaking in the bathtub,
beneath a shimmering chandelier, glass of
brandy in hand. Settling on the magnificent
view of the crater through the floor-to-ceiling
glass before me, I decided that this truly is
Maasai-meets-Versailles.
Travelling along the crater rim in the
afternoon, we descended upon the valley
speckled with Maasai villages. The Maasai are
semi-nomadic pastoralists living in harmony
with the wildlife and the environment.
Standing at over 6ft, Maasai warriors clad
in red checked robes and bearing sticks and
spears welcomed us. Despite their imposing
appearance, they quickly put us at ease with
their song, dance and, of course, jumping. The
women were equally impressive looking: tall,
404 image: andbeyond
NOMADIC PURSUITS
slender and bedecked
with enormous
beaded necklaces.
As we got an insight
into the Maasai
culture, traditions
and lifestyle, we were
somewhat surprised to
learn that the village
and its manyatta huts
were made entirely
by the womenfolk. We also
witnessed a Maasai warrior start a fire using
just a knife, wooden stick and donkey dung in
three minutes flat!
Once a gigantic volcano higher than Mount
Kilimanjaro, the Ngorongoro crater is the
largest intact caldera in the world. Its focal
point is a wildlife paradise protected by a
600m tall natural wall. This amphitheatre is
a haven for 250,000 animals. However, only
25 of the endangered black rhinoceros remain
in the crater floor due to poachers who have
hunted them to near extinction. Our tracking
of the extremely shy rhinos foraging for edible
leaves was difficult but eventually proved
fruitful, albeit from some distance away.
After sighting the last of our list of the
Big Five—the buffalo, elephant, leopard,
lion and rhino—we headed for the soda lake.
Along the way we encountered magnificent
elephants, prides of lions, laughing hyenas,
golden jackals, Kori bustards, secretary birds
and the brilliant plumage of dozens of bird
species. The lake in the distance appeared a
candyfloss pink, but was in fact filled with
thousands upon thousands of flamingos that
moved in synchrony upon the lake.
Back at the lodge, Joachim guided us on
a walking tour of the premises that include
three separate and intimate camps totalling
just 30 suites. Along the way, he shared his
knowledge of plants and their medicinal
values. A naturalist, he personally cares for the
in-house nursery and helps in conservation
efforts by growing indigenous plants, which
are later donated to the likes of schools.
ISLAND DREAMS
strong
impression
The quaint
Ngorongoro
Crater Lodge
is surprisingly
opulent inside;
the guest area
singapor e tatler . september 2014
Set on a sprawling 32ha estate on the island
of Unguja, and flanked by coconut palms and
a white beach, The Residence Zanzibar is an
intoxicating mix of chic contemporary sheen
and island charm.
After our butler welcomed us into
our oversized villa overlooking the pure
chromatic aquamarine ocean, we were left
to revel in the uber-sophisticated, outré
luxurious, high-tech seaside dwelling. With
its own deck and swimming pool, private
sun terrace, daybed and sun loungers, there
was an excess of tranquil areas in the twobedroom villa for the whole family to unwind
in. A brief walk brought us to the beach,
enticing me to slip into a bikini, reach for the
sun lotion and bury my feet in the hot sand.
Hopping on our bicycles, we decided to
explore the 66-villa property which boasts
two restaurants, a bar, an inviting glass-clad
singapor e tatler . september 2014 The Rock restaurant
in Zanzibar
pool complete with poolside dining, a spa,
tennis courts, yoga studio, fitness centre, kids’
club and beach club. Suleiman, a Zanzibar
native, greeted us hand on heart before
ushering us to the Dining Room aboard a
buggy. The space hosts nightly themed buffets
that celebrate the various cultures found
on the island. On African Night, we dined
on crocodile meat and were captivated by a
traditional dance performance.
The next day, the children spent a funfilled day with the Kids Club exploring the
hotel’s mini petting farm, visiting the bird
sanctuary, riding a donkey on the beach, face
painting, pizza making, and having water gun
fights. Meanwhile, we were enticed with a
string of adventure options: exploring the
coastline on a sunset dhow cruise, visiting the
Jozani Forest to see indigenous red colobus
monkeys, a dolphin safari, a visit to local
spice plantations, and a visit to Stone Town, a
Unesco World Heritage Site.
We headed to Stone Town the next day
and proceeded to the boathouse for some
snorkelling followed by a visit to the spa.
I submitted to the soothing strokes of a
relaxing massage, which prepped me for
a stroll to the jetty to watch the peaceful
sunset. Zanzibar made a pleasant conclusion
to our journey, with the warm hospitality of
the Swahili people and the irrepressible charm
of the mystical “Spice Island”.
Before our flight home, we enjoyed lunch
in Stone Town overlooking the iridescent
jewelled waters. Perhaps my greatgrandfather who had frequented Zanzibar a
century ago might have sat in this very spot
thinking “Hakuna matata” (Swahili for “no
worries”), just as I did.
The deep, intimate and soul-stirring
moments we experienced lingered long after
we left. Others who have been to Africa
understood when I said that sometimes, I feel
we might have left our hearts somewhere in
the plains of Africa.
picture
perfect
View from the
oceanfront
villa at The
Residence
Zanzibar (top);
the expansive
beach (above)
40 5