blessed bhutan
kerryn fischer journeys to this
beautiful mountain kingdom where
happiness is paramount and finds
it an inspiring lesson in the value
of simplicity and integrity
production luanne toms photographs elsa young
luxe culture
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A lounge at
Amankora Punakha, set in
an old Bhutanese farmhouse
opposite
Thousands of devout
locals gather at Tashichho Dzong to
celebrate the Lord Buddha’s birthday
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As we climb higher, sometimes as much as 4 000 metres
above sea level, temperatures drop and we are trapped
in billowing clouds of mist that place us
somewhere between earth and sky
ON TOP OF THE WORLD
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It is no surprise to
learn that more than 70%
of this country the size of
Switzerland is forested
opposite
The superb food at
Uma Paro’s restaurant Bukhari
draws on the Como Shambhala
Wellness concept
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It has been said that a trip to Bhutan
mountain High
Bhutan is like an Asian
Switzerland, from the Alpine
climate to the countryside to the
architecture; even the roadside
cafeterias are something like
Swiss country cabins
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can give you a bad case of ‘Shangri-La’, an affliction you never quite
shake. In a world where you can virtually count the last truly untouched
places on one hand, that eternal yearning for a mystical, earthly paradise
totally isolated from the outside world (as immortalised in James Hilton’s
novel Lost Horizon) pretty much describes the other-worldly mountain
kingdom of Bhutan. Nestled between China and India at the eastern
end of the Himalayas, this independent country has managed to remain
remote and virtually unscathed by modernity and political turmoil well
into the millennium. But then foreigners have only been allowed to visit
in the last 30 years or so, with TV and the internet arriving in 1999,
followed by cellphones in 2003 and luxury tourism in 2004.
It was the visionary fourth king of Bhutan, Jigme Singye Wangchuck,
who implemented the country’s controlled and sustainable tourism
model that allows a limited number of annual visitors to visit the
mountain kingdom. Today only the very committed (and largely affluent)
get to visit, due in no small part to the fact that you cannot simply buy
a flight and arrive in Bhutan sans accommodation or a tour guide – the
entire trip has to be arranged with an ABTA operator. Guests pay $200
(R1 445) a day for accommodation in standard (not luxury) hotels,
including meals, transportation, guides and monastery permits. There’s
also only one airline that flies into Bhutan, the national carrier Druk
Air, which operates a limited number of flights into one town, Paro. The
result is a ‘high value, low impact’ brand of tourism that is sustainable
and ensures the protection of Bhutan’s environment and culture.
As the last remaining Buddhist state in the region, Bhutan is
something of an anomaly – the neighbouring Buddhist kingdoms of
Sikkim and Tibet have long been incorporated into India and China
respectively. It is to Bhutan’s credit that it has managed to turn its
vulnerable landlocked position on its head, forging good relationships
with both India and China. And if all this sounds too good to be true,
it gets better … Bhutan is also the only place in the world where ‘gross
national happiness’ (GNH) is measured over gross national product. So
the onus is on government to create a ‘happy’ environment by way of
sustainable development, preservation of culture, conservation of the
environment and good governance. And they’re getting it right. What’s
less obvious but much more strategic is that by making GNH rather
than military or economic power a national objective, they’ve averted
becoming a pawn between the two Asian powers.
The moment we drive through the arched gateway of Phuntsoling,
the border town between India and Bhutan, there’s a tangible difference.
Not only is Phuntsoling less frenetic than the Indian towns we’ve been
passing through on our six-hour drive, but it’s infinitely cleaner too. And
almost everyone seems to be wearing a dress! From the local Bhutanese
men in their traditional tartan ghos (best described as a cross between
a kilt and a kimono) worn with Dickensian long socks and brogues to
the colourful floor-length women’s kira (a kimono-like dress) to the
Buddhist monks in their saffron robes.
After a restful night at the comfy and superclean Hotel Lakhi – where
we sample the hotel’s restaurant and spa (the therapists sing loudly and
unselfconsciously to tunes set to play repeatedly on their cellphones) –
we leave Phuntsoling to begin our long-awaited but whirlwind four-night
adventure into Druk Yul, the Land of the Thunder Dragon, a trip I have
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the jewel in the lotus
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Punakha Dzong is built on
ancient principles of architecture and
made from sun-baked mud blocks,
stone and wooden beams, with no
metal, not even a nail, used in
the construction. Thick, slanted walls
tapering inwards are whitewashed
with a distinctive brand of red paint
across the top
opposite
A simple yet delicious
roadside meal of grilled beef with
chillies, rice and pak choi
Buddhism permeates
every aspect of society
in Bhutan. Red-robed
monks preside over
religious ceremonies
here, and in every
monastery you’ll be
humbled by the sight
of old and young bent
over prayer wheels
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plotted, planned and dreamt of for years. But not before an immigration
official drily warns us: ‘Now is a good time to witness nature’s fury.’ With
recent global evidence of nature’s fury in mind, we surrender ourselves
to our driver and Bhutan’s single highway, a narrow serpentine road that
appears to have been hacked haphazardly into the side of the mountain.
With an average of 20 twists and turns a kilometre and a constant delay
caused by roadworks, travel here is slow but never boring, thanks to a
landscape that delivers one dramatic spectacle after another.
Bhutan’s ecological landscape is a vast gene pool of biodiversity and
plant life, with different species of flowers, plants and medicinal herbs
found in every altitudinal zone. Giant ferns cascade down the slopes,
while wild orchids and vines shelter under dense canopies of tropical
jungle. As we climb higher, sometimes as much as 4 000 metres above
sea level, temperatures drop and we are trapped in billowing clouds of
mist that place us somewhere between earth and sky. We navigate yet
another corner and catch sight of a wooded hill laced with ribbons of
colourful prayer flags before descending into a valley dotted with cherry
and apple blossom, magnolia, wild roses and countless rhododendrons.
The narrow road opens up into a valley floor dotted with emerald
meadows, rice fields and a long black ribbon that is the Paro River.
Although the town of Paro is home to the country’s only airport, there’s
nothing urban about it. At an altitude of 2 200 metres, it’s in a bucolic
setting with local farmhouses in the traditional Bhutanese architectural
style of white-plastered walls and timbered beams set picturesquely into
the landscape. Smoke billows up from cooking fires in most of the homes,
a visual feast
clockwise from above
The tiny
town of Paro has bucolic charm;
portraits of Bhutan’s revered
royal family are everywhere,
even in roadside cafeterias;
the courtyard at the Taj Tashi;
the gracious Amankora Punakha
is a traditional Bhutanese
farmhouse laid out
over three floors
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in Bhutan. Red-robed monks preside over religious ceremonies here,
and in every monastery you’ll be humbled by the sight of old and young
bent over prayer wheels or circumnavigating a chorten (a stone structure
that contains a Buddhist relic) and chanting the Buddhist mantra Om
mani padme hum (Hail to the jewel in the lotus). The devout repetition
of this prayer is believed to bring one closer to a desired outcome. And it
is believed that with each turn of the prayer wheel, merit is accumulated.
Each time the mantra is repeated, it is added to the many prayers out
there, thereby increasing the likelihood of enlightenment of all beings.
I spend ages at the Paro museum, where a showcase of Bhutan’s
world-renowned philatelic history is on display. Bhutan has elevated
postage stamps to an art form since the issue of its first stamp in 1962.
Here you’ll see stamps engraved on steel, screen-printed on silk with
references to everything from Bhutan’s bird life, the royal family,
popular culture and even cartoon characters. Some reportedly even
play back the national anthem on a turntable. There are also remarkable
Buddha statues and woven tapestries, along with ancient implements
and furniture from medieval Bhutan. You can spend hours and hours
here, as we did, and still walk away feeling you need more time.
We return to Uma Paro late in the afternoon and decide to take
advantage of the hotel’s complimentary yoga class in a beautiful wooden
studio followed by a massage in the Ayurvedic spa. Again, we could
spend days alternating between yoga classes and the steam room, indoor
pool, and Bhutanese hot stone bathhouse set into the forest, offering
bath therapies, facials and massages. Alas, we’re on a tight schedule and
Bhutan is the only place in the world where ‘gross national
happiness’ (GNH) is measured over gross national product
while water buffalo work alongside locals in the fields and clusters of
children in traditional dress make their way home from school. As a
group of boys herds pigs into a nearby field, we learn that the marijuana
that grows wild here is used not for recreational purposes but to fatten
up pigs because it gives them the ferocious munchies. And presumably
makes them terribly happy. Yet another victory for GNH.
We check into Uma Paro (from R2 400; www.umaparo.com), a
magnificent hillside retreat owned by the Como hotel group. Built
in traditional style with trademark Bhutanese arched windows and
a pitched slate roof held down by giant stones, the boutique hotel is
incredible. Pared-down interiors in wood, white walls and hand-painted
floral murals create a calm atmosphere given over to the surrounding
mountain, valley and forest views. All rooms are kitted out with DVD
players, minibars and in-room yoga mats, while some suites have larger
bathrooms and separate lounge, dining and study areas. The superb
food references Bhutanese, Indian and Western dishes; we try fresh
ginger juice followed by salt and pepper crusted tofu served with stirfried vegetables and Bhutanese red rice. And to follow, just because we
can, buckwheat pancakes with Bumthang honey, lime and maple syrup.
Then we’re off to visit the majestic Paro Dzong, an imposing fortress
and monastery dominating a pine-forested hillside in the town. The
dzongs are traditionally the centres of government and religion in
each district of the kingdom and are home to centuries-old priceless
treasures and works of art. Buddhism permeates every aspect of society
are only good for dinner and bed if we’re to make our 5am call the next
morning to climb to Taktshang Goemba, the Tiger’s Nest monastery.
Sated by beauty, culture, yogi chi and yet another delicious meal, we
barely react when our waiter discreetly informs us that Leonardo di
Caprio (who is also staying at the hotel) is eating dinner in the garden.
Fortified by an early-morning rosewater lassi, we begin our
ascent up the steep cliff face that leads to the country’s most famous
monastery, the Tiger’s Nest. Legend has it that the Buddha Rinpoche
fled Tibet on the back of a tigress in the eighth century and came to
Paro to meditate in a cave. After three months he assumed the form
of Dorje Drolo, the Terrifying Thunderbolt, and was able to overcome
the Eight Evil Spirits who had hindered the spread of Buddhism in
Bhutan. In a feat of engineering, the monastery buildings were built
some 3 120 metres above sea level on a precipitous cliff face, virtually
into a vertical rock face. As part of their dedication to their religion,
monks must spend three years, three months and three weeks
meditating here. It might have taken as long for us to ascend were
it not for the sight of what lay ahead and the sound of the monks
chanting their daily prayers, willing us on (aching calves and all) to
arrive in just under three hours.
To climb to such lofty heights surrounded by the snow-capped
Himalayas in every direction is one of the most deeply meditative and
fulfilling experiences I have yet undertaken. The atmosphere of calm
introspection and more beauty than the eye can possibly bear that
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greets us makes Taktshang Goemba one of the most spiritual places I’ve
visited. As the morning sun casts a flush of pink light on the foothills of
the Himalayas, my world of materialism and fashionable stress seems
both shameful and hilariously trivial. When we descend to make our way
onwards to Thimpu, we comment on how the beauty of such a pristine
environment coupled with the innate calmness of Bhutan’s ‘naturally
shy and peace-loving’ people makes you want to be a better person.
Until 2008, the only luxury hotels allowed in Bhutan were exclusive
retreats in the countryside. But the capital city of Thimpu that sits at
an altitude of 2 300 metres is now home to the five-star Taj Tashi (from
R3 400; www.tajhotels.com), our hotel for the night. This imposing
building dominates the skyline in a low-rise city where development
has resulted in a slightly unimaginative urban spread. But despite this
there’s still a pastoral feel to the town, set as it is against the backdrop
of agricultural terraces.
Designed to echo the mighty structure of Bhutan’s dzongs, the Taj
Tashi has 66 bedrooms beautifully furnished in a mix of traditional and
contemporary decor. There’s also a restaurant serving Bhutanese cuisine,
a tea lounge and bar, and an indoor pool and spa. My only criticism is
that, despite the intricate murals that draw on traditional emblems in all
the public areas and the traveller’s welcome we receive from a monk,
it feels like any other Western hotel I’ve ever stayed in and lacks the
cultural gravitas and authenticity of the country retreats we’ve just left.
But it is a great base for exploring the town and the walks and sights
that exist just beyond it. There are great coffee shops and internet cafés
within walking distance, along with a superb craft centre and a weekend
market that runs from Friday night all the way through to Sunday.
Thimpu is also home to Tashichho Dzong, the seat of the country’s
progressive government and chambers for the Chief Abbot of Bhutan.
It is here in the midst of the country’s most developed town that I’m
reminded once more how the preservation of Bhutan’s medieval culture
coupled with the far-sighted vision of its contemporary leaders has
resulted in a show of good governance that is unique in the modern
world. The transition from an absolute monarchy to a democracy was
set in motion when the fourth king voluntarily abdicated in 2006 in
favour of his Oxford-educated son, Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck.
This paved the way for elections in 2008 and a constitutional monarchy
in which the fifth king is accountable for his vision of ‘sustainable global
development’ with ‘mindful consumption’. Beloved by his people, the
31-year-old king reportedly travels widely throughout the country on
foot or bicycle to commune with his 700 000 subjects.
As luck would have it, our visit coincides with the Lord Buddha’s
birthday and a national public holiday, so we join thousands of locals as
they make their way to Tashichho Dzong to say prayers and light butter
lamps. It’s a visual feast, with the colourful traditional clothing of locals
set against the backdrop of this beautiful monastery. Dignitaries and
lamas gaze down from the dzong’s high verandas while an orchestra of
monks armed with gongs, cymbals and horns sits to one side. Despite
rumours that the fourth king will be making an appearance, we’re on the
move again, this time to our last stop, the old capital of Punakha.
This warm fertile valley at the junction of the two main rivers of
Bhutan, Mo Chu (female) and Pho Chu (male), is just 1 250 metres above
sea level with a subtropical climate and fame as a rice-growing village.
It’s also home to the country’s oldest dzong, where the first and second
kings were inaugurated. We’re staying at the impressive Amankora
Punakha (from R9 300; www.amanresorts.com), a traditional Bhutanese
farmhouse built by a former Chief Abbot of Bhutan. Here your main
access is over the Mo Chu via a suspension bridge adorned with prayer
flags. We’re seduced from the get-go by the charm of the old farmhouse
and our pomegranate-and-mint arrival drinks. That is until we’re shown
to our spacious, wood-panelled suites located in modern rammed-earth
dwellings behind the old farmhouse. There’s also a first-floor library and
living room with a great selection of books and a traditional altar room
for meditation and prayer plus a spa that offers reiki and other Asianinspired treatments.
As the first foreign hotel group allowed to build in Bhutan, Aman
Resorts has developed an excellent circuit of five nature-linked lodges
across the country that allows guests to trek and camp between them.
There are a number of treks to choose from, and you’ll carry nothing
more than your daypack as horses and yaks carry all provisions and
guests belongings. With a host of day treks from the lodge itself, there
is a lot more to do here too, such as inner-tubing, white-water rafting,
mountain biking and archery lessons. And the food is excellent. Delirious
with the beauty of our surroundings, we devour delicious yak burgers
with large glasses of Argentinian red while chatting to other guests at
our communal oak table.
As we slope off happily to our luxurious beds, we’re escorted by two
of the most massive bullfrogs I’ve ever laid eyes on and I can’t help but
wonder whether this holds some significance. It’s only later that I learn
that in Buddhism, frogs are living reminders of rain and fertility, and
represent transformation and rebirth. This tiny Himalayan kingdom
has in a few short days taught us more than we’d ever thought possible.
Most notably that with a commitment to that most basic of principles,
integrity, you’re guaranteed your quotient of happiness.
into the tiger’s lair
As part of their dedication
to their religion, monks are
required to spend three years,
three months and three weeks
meditating at the Tiger’s Nest,
Bhutan’s most famous monastery
BHUTAN FOR $240 A DAY
Provided you stay in standard tourist-grade
hotels, you can get to see Bhutan without
spending a fortune. A maximum charge of
$240 (R1 455) per person per night includes
full-board accommodation, transportation,
guides and monastery permits. In addition,
visitors have to pay a one-off visa, tourism
development and entry fee of $40 (R290).
1. Hotel Lhaki, Phuntsoling
Phuntsoling is a stopover and a border town
on the way to the main highlights of Bhutan.
Although tucked in an alley, Hotel Lhaki is
close to the border post and the town centre.
Simple and unassuming, it has all the facilities
you need: rooms are large and airy, the beds
comfy and the tiled floor is squeaky clean.
2. The Kyichu Resort, Paro
This resort is about 10km from Paro and
has cottages for guests and lovingly tended
gardens. The rooms are finished in wood and
the bathrooms in stone. With no room service
on offer, it is necessary to go to the main
restaurant (near the reception) for dinner and
to the adjoining bar for a drink – a challenge
if you’ve just trekked to Taktshang. The
traditional à la carte offering for dinner
provides a good glimpse into Bhutanese
cuisine, with red rice, cheese, chillies and beef,
and strawberries for dessert.
3. Hotel River View, Thimphu
A property owned by a member of the royal
family, the River View actually has a river view
(or what is left of it) despite its proximity to the
city centre. It has spacious rooms with large
windows, comfy beds and WiFi. The restaurant
dishes up both Indian and Bhutanese cuisine
and the food is good.
4. Darchem Resort, Punakha
A new hotel, the Darchem has the advantage
of being situated near the river. The absence
of TV and WiFi is a plus as it forces you to
contemplate your journey thus far. For groups,
it is possible to organise a bonfire and a lavish
à la carte menu.
5. The Kyichu Resort, Wangdue
This hotel is so charming that some visitors
prefer to stay here than at the Aman at
Punakha. It is located on the banks of the
river about six kilometres from the town of
Wangdue. Each room has wooden floors and
ceilings and a balcony overlooking the river.
Again, the absence of television is a bonus.
The restaurant serves vegetarian food only.
6. Hotel Tsemden, Gelephu
Gelephu is frequently included in travellers’
itineraries as it is the nearest town to an
Indian airport. However, this sleepy village
is just waking up and Tsemden is the only
adequate hotel in the town. The hotel is basic,
good for a stay of one night only. The food
at the hotel is fairly good, although even
continental cuisine is cooked in the traditional
Bhutanese manner.
Buddhism in Bhutan
Buddhism was introduced to Bhutan in the seventh century when the Tibetan
king, Songtsen Gampo, established temples at Kyichu in the Paro valley and at
Jampey in Bumthang. In the eighth century, the legendary saint Guru Rinpoche,
a wandering tantric from the Swat region in the northwest frontier towns of
present-day Pakistan, brought the teachings of Mahayana Buddhism to Bhutan.
His eight manifestations, representing the Noble Eight-Fold Path preached by
Buddha, are worshipped in temples throughout the kingdom and Guru Rinpoche
is recognised as the father of the Nyingmapa sect, which is linked with tantric
Vajrayana Buddhism – the Vehicle of the Thunderbolt.
Phalluses – said to ward off evil spirits – are frequently depicted on the
exterior walls of Bhutanese homes. These are a legacy of the kingdom’s Lama
Drukpa Kunley, who lived at the turn of the 15th century. It is said that his
outrageous approach to Buddhism was an attempt to ward off the stiffness of
the clergy and to allow people to realise the true teachings of Buddha.
Getting there National Geographic Traveller took the long-haul route to Bhutan, flying to India courtesy of Jet Airways via Mumbai (where we spent a night) before
flying onwards to Kolkata and then to Bagdogra in West Bengal, India, from where we drove to Bhutan. Jet Air offers return flights from Joburg to Mumbai from R4 450,
www.jetairways.com. Instead of driving, you can fly with Druk Air from Kolkata to Paro, R1 660 return; www.drukair.com.bt. Travel specialists Indebo organised our
daily itinerary. Contact Indebo’s Margeaux Burger on 082 905 2321; [email protected]; www.indebo.com.
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