PRO NATURA ZENTRUM ALETSCH
Aletsch forest - A forest of larch and
pine at the edge of the glacier
This view is unique: in the foreground the lush green of the pines and in the
background the gleaming white of the Aletsch glacier. Unique is not only the giant ice flow, but also the adjoining Aletsch forest at the glacier’s edge. In 1933,
the entire area was put under absolute protection by Pro Natura, Switzerland‘s
nature conservation organization. Ever since, 50,000 to 70,000 visitors admire
the 410 hectares (1.58 square miles) of the protected area every year. In this
forest, the attentive hiker will be rewarded with the sight of a range of flora
and fauna. Moreover, he will be on the trail of the glacier and get the chance to
glance at some of the oldest trees in Switzerland.
A forest emerges from the ice
At the end of the last Ice Age, 10,000 years ago, the area now covered by the Aletsch
forest was still under a giant expanse of ice. At that time, the edge of the Aletsch
glacier reached almost up to Riederfurka. In the Aletsch forest it left a mighty lateral
moraine which is still visible today at the “Moränenweg” (moraine path). Since then,
the glacier has not retreated continuously to its present level. Instead, the glaciers
throughout the entire Alps have expanded to a greater or lesser extent during the
so-called Little Ice Age. These expansions have left their marks on the scenery, and
above all on the vegetation.
These marks can clearly be distinguished in the Aletsch forest. At close quarters the
vegetation can be divided into two different zones:
- the area close to the glacier which is dominated by new and developing
vegetation
- the upper area which is dominated by a developed stock of existing trees,
such as pines and larches with dense undergrowth made of cotton grass
and dwarf shrubs.
This significant division can be traced back to 1860 when the Great Aletsch glacier
reached its maximum extension. At that time the glacier’s edge was about 200 meters (656 ft) higher than today. The latest lateral moraine marks a sharp vegetation
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boundary. Since 1860, the Aletsch glacier has retreated continuously and released on
each side a broad strip of land. This formerly glaciated area is gradually being reconquered by vegetation: first by pioneering plants, then by shrubs, and later by trees. So
a forest is slowly emerging from the ice!
The pine: gnarled, old, and resistant
While the vegetation on the young moraine is still quite patchy, the vegetation next
to it offers a more or less complete covering. Here, the soil was freed from the ice
thousands of years ago and the vegetation has had plenty of time to develop. That
is why you will not only find significantly older trees but also a thick undergrowth of
moss, grass, and dwarf shrubs. The most common shrubs are the alpine rose and the
blueberry. In the second half of June, the alpine rose turns the Aletsch forest into a
blooming pink field, making it an unforgettable experience.
The most important part of the Aletsch forest’s vegetation is the trees. Due to the harsh climate you will mainly find pines (Swiss stone pine) and larches, while the spruce
(Norway spruce) favors a rather milder climate. Various deciduous trees, such as
birch, European green alder, and mountain ash (rowan berry) complete the picture of
the larch-pine forest.
Figuring as the main tree in the Aletsch forest, the pine deserves special mention. Two
distinctive features characterize this tree: on the one hand, it is extremely resistant
and on the other, it can grow to an incredibly old age. The resin with its typical smell
gives the pines their resistance, which is expressed in the twisted and gnarled form
of the trees, for example. If a pine tree is harmed by exterior influences, the resin that
leaks out protects the tree against pests, such as fungus or insects.
Due to the rough climate, the growing process of the pines in the Aletsch forest is extremely slow: a tree of 3-4 meters (9-13 ft) height can already be 60 to 80 years old! Its
slow growth is compensated for by its high life expectancy. Tests have shown that the
pines in the Aletsch forest are at least 600 to 700 years old. Quite likely some of the
pines are even significantly older: the Aletsch forest really is home to Switzerland’s
oldest trees.
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The nutcracker: gardener of the Aletsch forest
The Aletsch forest not only provides a perfect habitat for many plants, but also for
manifold wildlife. Besides the forest’s most common inhabitants, such as the chamois,
deer, and fawn, you will also find the squirrel, fox, badger, marten, ermine, blue hare,
and European hare. In recent years, the red deer have reproduced so fast that they
have not only become strong competition for other animals (for example the chamois),
but have also had a negative impact on the vegetation. The high numbers of deer had
to be reduced by culling.
Besides various mammals, the Aletsch forest is home to more than 60 bird species
which either brood in the protected area regularly or which appear from time to time
in the Aletsch forest. Two of the typical bird species should be highlighted: firstly, the
nutcracker, which is about the size of a pigeon. Its main food consists of pine nuts,
which the nutcracker stocks in great amounts for the winter. The nuts forgotten in the
bird’s hiding places start to grow shoots and young trees develop. The nutcracker
thereby helps the pine to spread and it is therefore justified to call him the „gardener
of the Aletsch forest“.
Secondly, the black grouse, which has unfortunately become quite rare in many regions of the Alps due to human influence (for example tourist development). In the
Aletsch area, however, you can see the black grouse quite frequently and with a little
bit of luck you can even observe the males’ impressive dances during the spring mating season. If human observers can witness this fascinating spectacle, the protection
of the habitat has undoubtedly paid off.
From an overused area to a protected area
The Aletsch forest has not always been a protected area. In the past, it was intensely
used for pasture and the timber industry. Whereas pasture destroyed young growth,
the timber industry spared only the oldest trees. The result was a very old forest with
a dismal future. In 1933, only after lengthy debates with the community of Ried-Mörel,
Pro Natura succeeded in leasing the forest for a period of 99 years. The forest could
then be put under absolute protection. Agreement was reached in 1999 to extend the
existing reserve to today’s 410 hectares (1.58 square miles). However, Pro Natura’s
efforts to protect the Aletsch forest do not stop with the extension of the reserve. Regular examinations of the protected area do verify that the forest is regenerating very
well, albeit slowly. Those tough negotiations 70 years ago were certainly worthwhile
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and the forest is slowly recovering. Its thrilling history, ancient trees, and all the species it contains make the Aletsch forest worth a visit all year round! The guided excursions by the Pro Natura Center Aletsch’s staff revealing the forest’s many small or
larger secrets will undoubtedly be a lasting memory.
Information on guided excursions in the Aletsch forest
Pro Natura Center Aletsch, CH-3987 Riederalp
www.pronatura-aletsch.ch; [email protected]
Literature on this topic
Laudo Albrecht: Aletsch – eine Landschaft erzählt (Aletsch – a landscape tells its
story). Fourth book in the series „Die Reichtümer der Natur im Wallis“ (“The wealth of
nature in Valais”). Rotten Verlags AG Visp, 1997.
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