Lifelong Gardening Table Planter
Construction Directions.
Materials List: ( Note - all lumber must be appropriate for outdoor use. )
2
2
2
4
8
20
5 lbs.
1
1
2 X 10 X 12 ft long ( top members to be cut to 132 inches ).
2 X 8 X 8 ft long
( bed end and top end member pieces ).
2 X 8 X 8 ft long
( bed side member pieces ).
4 X 4 X 8 ft long
( corner posts to be cut to 84 inches ).
5/4 inch X 6 X 10 ft decking boards ( table bed bottom pieces ).
3/8 inch X 6 inch machine bolts with 2 flat washers and 1 nut each.
3 inch deck screws.
tube of construction adhesive.
roll of window screen or garden weed barrier material, must allow water
to pass through for proper drainage.
Suggested Tools List:
Carpenters square.
Caulking gun for applying tube adhesive.
Circular saw.
Coarse sandpaper and sanding block or power sander.
Cordless & /or electric drill with deck screw driver tip and 3/8 inch wood drill bit
Electrical extension cord.
Hammer.
Measuring tape, 12 feet or longer.
Pencils for marking lines on boards.
Staple gun with ¼ inch staples.
2 Saw horses.
2 – 9/16 inch wrenches.
Sabre saw ( optional if scroll cutting top side member ends ).
Assembly Instructions:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
Cut both 2 x 10s to 132 inches in length. Mark a square line the width of the
board 18 inches from each end ( to align the upright posts ). Square, radius,
angle or pattern cut each end as desired.
Cut all 4 x 4 posts to 84 inches in length.
Square end cut two of the 2 x 8 boards at 96 inches in length.
Place two or three of the 10 foot long deck boards on two saw horses to use as
a work table.
Place two of the 4 x 4 posts on the work table or on a flat ground surface,
8 feet apart from each other. From the bottom end of each 4 x 4 post, mark a
square line at 26 ¾ inches.
Place one of the 2 x 8 side member boards above the 26 ¾ inch mark on both
of the posts. The 2 x 8 board should be flush with the outside edges of the
4 x 4 posts.
Place one of the 2 x 10 top edge member boards flush with the top of the two
posts and at the 18 inch mark from the end of each top member board.
8.
Viewing the side view diagram below as a guide, square up the unit by
measuring from point A to point D and measure from point B to point C.
Adjust the unit until the measurements A-D and B-C are the same.
9.
Carefully tip the top and side member boards up on the edge while remaining
on the 4 x 4 posts. Apply a liberal bead of adhesive. Carefully lay the top and
side member boards down in contact with the adhesive on the 4 x 4 posts.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
Screw in one 3 inch deck screw into each of the four corners A, B, C, D.
Recheck for square by measuring A-D, C-B again. Adjust if needed, insert a
second screw at each corner.
Using a 3/8 inch drill bit, drill 5 holes through each 4 x 4 post and through the
top and side member boards at the corner joints to bolt these pieces together.
Place one bolt with a washer in each top and side member board holes. Drive
the bolt through the 4 x 4 posts. Put a second washer on each bolt and secure
with a nut. Tighten the nut on each bolt ensuring the nut is on the 4 x 4 side
which will be on the inside of the planter.
Repeat steps 5 through 12 for the second side unit. Set both units aside.
Cut the 5/4 inch decking boards into twenty 36 inch long pieces and two
pieces that are 28 ¾ inches long.
Cut two 2 x 8 top end members to 36 inches long.
Cut two 2 x 8 bed end members to 39 inches long.
Stand the two side units upright, apply a bead of adhesive to the top and end
member pieces. Attach the top and bed end members with one screw at each
corner. Square up the units measuring diagonally as done in step 8. Secure
the top and bed end members with four more screws at each corner. Note, this
will require the help of two to four people to hold the pieces together.
18.
Check the horizontal square of the unit by measuring diagonally across the
bed span.
19.
Starting at one end, attach the 36 inch long deck boards to the inside of the
bed, flush with the bottom of the side member boards. Use at least two deck
screws on each end of each deck board. The last board will need to be cut
lengthwise at the proper width to fit. Attach with screws on each end.
20.
Attach one 36 inch deck board vertically on each end flush with the top side
members. Do this after a filler piece of board about 1 ¼ inch wide is cut and
installed ( due to lumber shrinkage, this measurement is approximate ).
21.
Attach the two 28 ¾ inch deck boards between the end posts. Center this
piece on the end member and the previously installed vertical deck board.
22.
Drill three to six 3/8 inch holes, evenly spaced, across the center of the
planting bed. This is for excess water drainage.
Unroll and install the window screen or garden weed barrier over the bottom
of the planting bed. This will keep the planting medium from washing out.
Fasten with ¼ inch staples.
Center the last 36 inch deck board and attach vertically in the center of the
planting bed. This will be 48 inches on center from the outside edge of the
posts. This will prevent the bowing out of side members.
23.
24.
25.
Fill with soil-less planting medium to the top of the side members. Plant,
water and enjoy your new garden.
Construction Notes: This project is suitable for woodworkers with moderate skills and
access to common woodworking tools. A sabre saw will be needed if radius or pattern
end cuts are used on the top side members. A sander is also handy to lightly smooth over
the finished planter edges to remove possible splinters. This table planter is wheelchair
accessible and very stable when constructed as designed.
This construction guide was created by the Columbia County Master Gardeners
Association as a part of the Lifelong Gardening Project. Special thanks to Mike and
Patty Koch who designed the tabletop planter and to the Lifelong Gardening Project
Committee for their many contributions.