FOSTER HANDBOOK
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
1. What is Expected of You……………………….
2. Frequently Asked Questions…………………
3. Warning Signs of Illness………………………..
4. Dangers – Kitten Proof you Home……..…
5. Pregnant Cats……………………………………………
6. Bottle Feeding………………………………………….
7. Feral Cats………………………………………………….
8. Adoption Time – Will I cry?………………….
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What is Expected of You
Where to keep them:
When you first get your kitten(s), keep them in a small-secured area, like the bathroom, until you are
confident they are litter trained and socialized. You may gradually let them have more space, as they
get more familiar with the area. If there are any accidents outside the litter-box, please contact
VOKRA and be sure to return the kitten to the small space immediately. Urine Off or Nature’s Miracle
must be used to clean up pee or poop as the cats can smell it and return to same spot over and over.
Length of stay:
Kittens: When you agree to take on a foster kitten, we will let you know the expected length of time
you will have with them in your care, as each case is different. Kittens are available for adoption at
8 weeks of age and may go immediately or be with you for a longer period. The kittens must be
fully litter trained, with no accidents, before they can be adopted. If you need to have them moved
contact Karen as soon as you know, and we will find another foster.
Holidays:
Summer is an extremely busy time for us. If you are planning a holiday, please let us know the
dates as soon as you can so that we can make other arrangements. For short periods of time it is
easier for us to come into your home to care for the kittens on a daily basis than to arrange for
alternate housing. Do not leave kittens to be cared for by friends or neighbors without first clearing
it with us and giving us their contact info.
Mother Cats:
Occasionally, cats with kittens go into heat before we get the opportunity to get them spayed.
Signs of this are excessive affection, yowling and elevating the rear. Please contact us
immediately if you are concerned with any behavior and be extra careful about escape routes, as
she will be much more determined to get out. She can be spayed as soon as her milk has dried up.
Health Care:
The kittens are to be given oral wormer medication at 5 weeks of age and again in 10 days then
( once more in 10 days , if you still have them). If you did not receive the medication with your
foster kit, please e-mail Karen when they are 5 weeks old for the medication. Kittens get 1/2cc,
and 1cc for moms. Please keep an eye out for rough skin, missing patches of hair, diarrhea, runny
eyes, sneezing, fleas, grainy dirt in ears, etc. All are signs of illness that we need to get on right
away.
Supplies:
All food, litter and litter boxes, that you need, will be supplied. Supplies are available at one of our
homes. If you need delivery, let us know well in advance. VOKRA purchases supplies at wholesale
prices, so please do not make your own purchases from a retail shop unless you have
permission from one of us to do so. If you run out of food or litter you can purchase a small amount
of the SAME food or litter for which you will be reimbursed, so please keep the receipts. Never
change food or litter without consulting us. Tisols and Bosleys carry Wellness.
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Use of your own cat’s food and litter:
Never feed dry food or use clay-clumping litter for kittens. Keep your foster cats from eating
you own cat’s food regardless of what they are eating. Clay clumping litter and crystal litter are very
dangerous for kittens, as they will become very ill if ingested.
Training the kittens:
It is very important for the kittens to learn good manners while at your home. Even if you don’t
mind scratching at carpets or furniture, the new home may not. Climbing up on tables or counters
must be discouraged, for the kittens as well as mom cats. If the kittens or mom are displaying bad
behavior grasp them by the scruff of the neck gently and growl at them loudly. Be persistent and
use a spray bottle if needed. Do not allow them to bite or scratch at hands, use a wand and toys to
play with, not hands. Absolutely no climbing up your pants leg. Please notify us right away if the
there are any problems with litter training or persistent bad behavior. This is so very important
to the future of your fosters.
Pictures:
If you have a digital camera, send in several shots of your kittens around 7 weeks of age. Try to get
an individual close up head shot and a couple of whole body. Action shots, sleeping, etc are just as
important as posed shots. Please do not crop the pictures, as the person putting pics on site will
make any necessary adjustments. No pictures taken outside.
*******Send the pictures to: [email protected] with Subject line: “foster kittens at ( your name’s)
house”. Please include info about their personalities as well and what type of home would be best.
(i.e. - quiet, other cats ok, dogs ok, kids ok), and ensure you identify which cat/kitten each
description is referring to. We will then put them up on our “Kittens for Adoption” page on our
website.
Each kitty needs a close up face shot and one or two full body.
If you have a mom cat, please take a picture of her alone, and with the kitten she hangs around with
most (preferably a male).
If you don’t have a digital camera, or can’t borrow one, please e-mail . Pictures are very important
in having kittens adopted.
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Frequently Asked Questions
1. Can I name my foster kittens?
Yes, we would like you to name the kittens, but all names must be positive. Do not use names such
as Scaredy, Cougar, Killer, etc. It has been shown that pets live up to their names and we want only
positive thoughts going to these guys when they are called. Please do not change the name once you
have informed VOKRA. Names and positive descriptions on the site are very helpful in finding
adoptive homes. They may not keep the name you give but first name is important! If we have you
go to the vet with one..you must give the code # of that kitten or cat, as well as its name and yours
as the foster.
2. Can I adopt one or more of my foster kittens?
Yes, but you must send in an application like any other potential adopter. Do this as soon as you
decide which of your kittens you would like to adopt so we can get the paperwork done right away.
We do not “hold” kittens for anyone, including fosters.
3. Can I give out numbers of people at VOKRA?
OH, Please no!!! We get so many calls as it is. Have them go to the website
www.orphankittenrescue.com and fill out an application, mentioning which kitten and who is
fostering it. If they know the foster, and do not have a computer, they can call the message line
(604)731-2913 and leave the same info and their number. Be sure that people understand it is
much easier and faster to get an answer by e-mail. If you are at all hesitant about this person
adopting let us know. All people wanting to adopt from us must fill out an application on-line. We
only adopt to indoor homes.
4.
Are there adult cats for adoption?
Absolutely! We do not generally take in adult cats but sometimes have moms or special cases in
foster. These are the hardest to place, so if you ever hear someone say they want an adult cat have
them go to the site right away! We also have cats at the North Van and the Grandview Petsmart
stores in adoption centers. We run all adoptions there the same way.
5 What happens if I have to go away suddenly?
Email Karen as soon as you know the date so that arrangements can be made to shift the group without
panic. [email protected] We also have other fosters in many areas that will come in to feed and clean if
you are only away for a couple of days…this is much easier on the cats.
If it is really sudden call (604) 418-4008 for Karen and we will arrange something.
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6. How easy is it to litter train?
Cats & kittens are generally easy to litter train and should be trained by 5 weeks, but as bad litter
habits are hard to break the easiest way to maintain good habits is to keep the kittens contained in a
small area until they are having absolutely no accidents. Blockading a corner so that kittens stay in and
mom can hop in and out is great…or an extra bathroom with barrier mom can jump at the door. Or a
huge appliance box with one side cut down for mom cat a bit.
We provide you with pine pellet litter: put enough to fill the bottom of the litter box, scoop out the
poops daily, and then change the whole litter box to fresh litter whenever necessary, depending on the
number of kittens. If the kitten has an accident, wipe it up with a tissue and put it in the box, so the
kitten knows where she/he should go. If the kittens are just learning and very tiny you can dampen
the litter slightly to soften it. Clumping litter is extremely dangerous to kittens,,,do not use it!
If you take them to a different area to play with them, be sure the litter box is handy. E-mail Karen
immediately for advice if the kittens are not using the box. Kittens and cats who soil outside of the box are
the ones we have trouble placing or we get back… so make sure they are not doing sneaky pees or poops
under beds or other furniture.
7.
When do the kittens start eating on their own?
With kittens that are feeding off their mom, you can start to encourage them to eat and drink on
their own at 4 weeks of age. Put a little bit of the food on your finger and let the kitten sniff the
food. You can put the food right in their mouth. Don’t worry if they don’t seem interested at first,
keep trying every time it is feeding time and they will eventually eat. Small amounts of goat milk can
be given, but no cow milk or “kitty milk”.
*** When kittens first start to eat on their own, they can become hypoglycemic very easily. THIS COMES
COMES ON VERY QUICKLY AND CAN RESULT IN DEATH.
It would show in lack of energy, no interest in eating and dehydration (To test for this pull the skin on
the back of neck up, if it stays up there is dehydration)
Keep a bottle of corn syrup handy. If you find a kitten flat or very sluggish..put a drop or two of corn
syrup in its’ mouth right away. Follow with some water, and contact :
Karen ( 604) 418 4008 or Maria (604) 731 3229, right away.
The way to avoid this happening is to closely watch when kittens are first eating, to ensure that each one is
getting a good amount of food at each meal. They should be fed at least 4x a day..with a bit of goats milk
(in carton from Safeway) or warm water, mixed in with food. Warm the meal at first.
Even if being fed by mom cats this can happen (cats can suddenly run out of milk or have their milk go bad)
If you are going to be out at work all day you can feed once right away when you get up and then again
just as you are leaving. (or ask someone to come and feed during day)
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WARNING SIGNS OF ILLNESS
We are experienced at caring & treating the various illnesses that kittens can get. Please watch your
kittens carefully for any of the signs below. They can become seriously ill quickly if not treated right
away. An ounce of prevention definitely applies.
Vet Care: Please DO NOT administer any medication or flea treatment of your own ..
If you have any health concerns regarding the care of your fosters, please e-mail Karen as soon as
possible. (call if urgent) If your foster cat is getting sick and may need to see the vet, PLEASE
contact us before closing time at vets or before a long weekend or holiday when vets may be closed.
Some things to watch for: -Sneezing
-Gummy eyes
-Ear mites (coffee ground substance visible inside the ear)
-Constant scratching
-Residual fleas
-Worms, thin thread-like worms in feces or rice –shaped
deposits around the anus.
-Constipation or bloating (hard tummy)
-Diarrhea
-rough spots on skin or missing patches of fur
Loss of Appetite:
This is very important, as a cat should never go more than a day without eating. If you notice this, it
is urgent you contact us at once. It is however, very common for a new cat or kitten to not eat its
first day in your home. This is nothing to panic about. Try putting a bit of Tuna juice on their food to
make it more appealing but don’t try any other food than what we’ve suggested.
Lethargy (especially in a once active kitten): read above info on feeding kittens.
A drop of corn syrup on the tongue can sometimes bring a kitten out of this so please keep a little on
hand. Follow that up with a bit of protein, as this could be a sign of low blood sugar.
*** You MUST contact Karen to receive authorization prior to phoning the Vet as this may
be something we can handle in-house. If an animal requires Veterinary care you will be given the vet
info for one we use closest to your home.
VERY STINKY POOP, LIKELY RUNNY TOO!
Last year we had a lot of coxcydia in kittens and cats that had been living outside and drinking from
puddles. Even if kittens were nursing, the mom was passing it on to them. All poop is stinky
but if coxcydiia is present the smell can clear the room! Contact us right away if this is happening. We
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will give a medication right away that should start clearing it in one to two days. Clean the litter box often
and thoroughly.
Dangers – Kitten proof your home
Hiding:
Cats that are scared run up fireplace openings and run up the chimneys. They will come down
eventually but please ensure that the opening is securely blocked before this happens. Nervous cats
must start in a small room ( like bathroom) until doing well interacting with you and using litter box.
Kittens go down holes under sinks, (by the pipes leading under the vanity) air ducts, under fridges &
dishwashers. Please, kitten proof. Look for any holes, even in cupboards and be sure they are
SECURELY blocked. Again it would be wise not to allow them in rooms that have dangers like this.
Escaping:
Cats are escape artists. Windows and doors need screens and to be carefully watched. If no screens,
do not EVER open windows. Scared animals are very strong and can open unsecured windows and
screens. If you have a very quick sneaky one, post a note reminding family to be alert when entering
or exiting. We have had kittens jump out of windows and off of balconies. Never, never allow your
foster pets onto a balcony or outside at any time. Lock windows closed or open a small
amount and lock in place.
Collars:
Please insure your foster cat wears a collar with INDOOR CAT & number on it (604.418-4008). Please
get the collar back to us when the cat is adopted and stress to the adoptive family the importance of
a collar. This is for older kittens and adult cats only; kittens tend to get hung up on collars.
Poisonous plants: Lilies, Poinsettias, and Dieffenbachia
It is best to keep them away from all plants so it does not become a litter box. Another trick is to
cover the potting soil with tin foil or rocks.
Miscellaneous accidents:
Young, lively kittens can be a big danger to themselves. They can injure themselves critically or
fatally by: tipping furniture over (bookshelves should be secured to not tip), dragging table cloths
and subsequent heavy centerpieces onto themselves or each other. Cords from lamps, computers
and especially blinds and other draperies are a huge temptation and danger to curious little paws and
mouths. Hair elastics, tinsel, string, can kill when ingested. To be safe, kittens should never have
the run of the house unsupervised. Confine them to a small room at night or when you are not
at home. ***This is also important for consistent litter training***
If blocking a door or a corner of a room, make sure the barrier is secure and cannot be tipped over.
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Clumping litter:
Clumping litter is deadly to kittens (and none too good for adult cats) as it can be easily ingested and
will turn into a rock hard substance in their intestinal tracts and can cause death. If your own cat
uses this, please be sure the kittens do not use it. Silica balls are also very dangerous.
Issues Concerning Pregnant Cats
If we have placed a pregnant cat with you we will give you as much information as we can on the
ETA of the litter, but it is very difficult to determine, so at best it is a guess.
Signs of Labor: -Excessive neediness, want to be massaged
-Restlessness
-Pulling things from drawers etc. to make bed: nesting
-Leaking nipples
-Vaginal discharge, any color
-Compulsive cleaning of vaginal area
-Either large appetite or none at all.
If labor goes on more than 5 hours, please call us at (604) 418-4008 anytime you are worried. If
you think labor is starting, please call during the day to give a heads’ up.
Things to have on hand: Small sterile scissors (just boil them)
Olive oil or KY Jelly
Lots of old towels, sheets or cloths
Pedialyte, unflavored.
Small feeding syringe
Latex gloves
Have a couple of “nests” prepared for her to choose
Rescue Remedy
The first and sometimes second kittens often come quickly with a substantial wait after that. Some
cats, especially first time moms, panic a bit after the first births and will sometimes try to run. This is
why we encourage your presence during early delivery to keep mom calm. Speak softly to her and
massage her. Do no have a lot of people or any other animals in the room.
During the birth:
-Use a little Rescue Remedy on the head and ears of the mom cat and try to keep her still with gentle
massage and soothing words.
-Never pull the kitten or the placenta as it is coming out. The mother will bite the cord about an inch
from the kitten’s belly.
-The only time we cut the cord is if mom is anxious and the cord is tight with little clearance between
the kitten and the birth canal.
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-If you can’t calm down the mom while waiting for the placenta to come out, you may pinch the cord
hard with your forefinger and thumbnail about an inch from the kitten (this is the important end),
and then again another inch further.
-Cut carefully in between the pinched areas.
-Immediately check that the cut cord on the kitten side is not bleeding. If so, pinch it until bleeding
stops.
-If the sac is off the kitten’s head, give the kitten to mom headfirst and have her clean it.
-It is very important that the nose is the first area to be cleaned, so the kitten can breath.
A placenta should follow each kitten. The mom will digest these. If she leaves one you can dispose of
it. Sometimes, mothers need to stand up and move around to deliver the next kitten. Pull the
delivered kittens into your lap and keep a warm towel standing by to keep them warm and covered
while mom is trudging around. Generally the mother cat keeps things pretty clean, but you may need
to remove a layer of the bedding if it gets particularly soiled. I like to have a large bath towel inside
two pillowcases open at opposite ends.. as the main bed. Layer a number of towels on that..and as
they are soiled pull them out from under mom and kittens. Once they are all born a pillow case
covered towel is best bed as kittens have very sharp nails that get caught up in toweling.
Things that can go wrong:
If the mom isn’t cleaning the kitten and removing the sac, clear it away from the kitten’s mouth and
nose. Run your finger gently through the mouth to insure it is clear. Place the kitten directly under
the mother’s mouth. If she does nothing and the kitten appears to be struggling, cut the cord (see
above instructions), clear the mouth and nose again, briskly rub the kittens body up and down, if still
not breathing, wrap the kitten in a small cloth, hold it securely in your hands face up with your
fingers locked securely behind it’s head and your thumbs crossed over it’s chest. Raise kitten high
over your head, its head up and “whoosh” it with a swinging motion toward the floor, straight down,
insuring there is no furniture or impediment in the way. This is to help clear the airway and stimulate
breathing. Do this a couple of times and then rub the kitten’s chest and back and check that it is
breathing. If not you may next try blowing wee puffs of air into the kitten’s nose and mouth
simultaneously for 3 breaths and then tiny pumps on it chest for five compressions, then check again.
Try this a few times. If still not successful, try a drop of Rescue Remedy on inside of the kitten’s
mouth and then repeat the above procedures. If you are not able to revive the kitten, please do not
blame yourself. It is likely it is an internal problem with the kitten and it wouldn’t have survived
anyway. WE CANNOT SAVE THEM ALL. If the mother is not paying any attention to the kitten quietly
remove it from her line of sight. If she has seen it, wait until she is distracted before taking it away.
Wrap the body in a bit of tissue or paper towel, put into a plastic bag and store in the freezer so we
can collect it for potential analysis or cremation. Please feel free to call those of us on your contact
list if you are feeling anxious or overwhelmed. We are here to help.
We will ask you to watch for kittens who are not nursing or if they have cleft pallets. If you have a
longhaired cat you may want to clear away some of the fur from the nipple area to make feeding
easier.
The birthing process may go on for many hours so set yourself up to be comfortable if you plan to
share this experience with the mom. As each cat is a little different, please respect her “wishes”
regarding company at this time. Do not allow the whole family in the room if mom appears anxious
and tries to hide from the crowd. Usually she is happy with one person to provide comfort and
massage. Do not have any other animals in the room.
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If at any time you feel the cat is pushing without results for too long, please don’t hesitate to contact
us. There can be gaps of one or two hours between kittens. Please offer mom mushy food and water
as she is lying in the nest. (mix clear pedialyte or warm water, in with food or syringe into her mouth
straight.) Encourage her to stay put with the new kittens. Be sure the litter box is very near the nest
as she will be reluctant to travel far from her babies at this time.
As each kitten is born, keep note that the placenta is delivered each time as a retained placenta can
cause serious infection. If in the days following the birth mom loses her appetite, shows signs of
fever or you feel her breast tissue (not nipples) is hardened or very warm, call us immediately.
Bottle Feeding
Occasionally, even kittens with moms need the supplement of a bottle. In the event though, that we
are bringing you orphaned kittens, we will go over the feeding procedures with you on site.
A few things to keep note of are:
The best way to raise a litter of orphaned kittens is to keep them in a small, enclosed space (shut
bathroom or large kennel) for the first weeks.
Bottle~ Ensure the hole in the nipple is of sufficient size. (Snip off a sliver only large enough to allow
a drop of formula to come out when bottle is turned upside down.) Then you may squeeze the bottle
away from the kitten’s mouth just to get a drop onto the end of the nipple to encourage feeding.
Positioning~ Never bottle-feed kitten on it’s back like a human baby. Hold with one hand under belly
with head between thumb and forefinger to steady the head. Think of the kitten’s position when
feeding from a mother cat and try to copy this as closely as possible. It also helps to have them
wrapped in a small soft cloth to prevent distracting wriggling and keep down the mess.
Never squeeze the milk into the kitten’s mouth. If too much milk is going into the kitten’s tiny mouth
too quickly, aspiration can occur, causing death. For this reason never allow anyone to feed the
kittens, especially children, without proper training.
Feeding~ Newborn kittens eat every two hours for the first week. This can be stretched out a little
at night. We provide powdered KMR formula, (please use only this as we find we get the best
results from this brand) you get this formula from Karen
0 to 7 days: Mix one measure of dry to two measures of pedialyte. They are fed
every 2 hours around the clock for the first week and a half. Use the pedialyte
clear for half of the wet mix when making formula. Never microwave the
formula. Just heat the bottle in cup of hot water, test on your arm after shaking.
If your kittens develop diarrhea, keep the bum rinsed with warm water and use a
zinc cream to sooth it. Contact Karen ASAP.
7 days on mix two dry to three boiled water.
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4 weeks: Start to mix in goats’ milk in the formula. Just go gradually and see
how they react. We usually get the milk from Safeway in a carton; the bottled
ones are a bit too rich. For a few days use more and more goat and less KMR.
Then add a bit of chicken or beef baby food (the plain kind.) This gets their
stomachs used to meat gently and goes through the bottle nipple easily. (keep
the receipts for reimbursement)
**** SEE NOTES ON “WHEN DO KITTENS START TO EAT ON OWN” ABOVE
5 – 6 weeks: Start to offer a bit of Wellness canned food on your finger. Some
kittens catch on very quickly and dive in. some stick to the bottle for a while
longer. Just try it each day until they get the idea. You can mix in goats’ milk
with the canned and that usually goes over well.
7 weeks: By now they should not be using a bottle, but eating gloppy mix off
a plate. They should have a meal 4 to 5 times a day.
8 weeks: You can bring down the number of feeds at this point as their stomachs
can hold more. Likely 3 to 4 meals.
Eliminating~ After every feeding it is vital that the kitten is helped to eliminate. The mother does this
by stimulating the genitals and anus through gentle licking. We do not ask that you do this (you were
worried weren’t you?.) Instead have a bowl of warm water and tissues handy. After the kitten feeds,
dip the tissue in the water and very gently massage repeatedly from the stomach to the tail. Urine is
easily produced but it sometimes takes a bit more effort to encourage a bowl movement and it may
not occur with every feeding. If the stomach is tight or bloated or you just think the kitten is having a
difficult time having a movement, contact us. The kitten should have at least one good bowel
movement a day, so you may want to keep a chart if you have difficulty keeping track.
Once the kittens are moving around they will naturally climb out of the nest to eliminate. When this
begins, divide the containment area to bedding on one end and one of our low litter boxes with pine
pellets softened with a bit of water at the other. You may need to continue to aid their elimination
until you are confident they are consistently doing it on their own.
After kittens are fed, burped and relieved, all they need is sleep. Return them to their nest and
cover them with a blanket or towel to keep their bed warm and dark. Never use an electric heating
pad or blanket, this can overheat the babies. We provide a microwaveable warming device to be
placed under the blanket layers.
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Ferals
Feral cats are very fearful and need more specialized care. They must be kept either in a large
kennel (provided to you) or a small confined space, like the bathroom. Keep them in the confined
area until they have been socialized and are using the litter box.
When first brought into the home they may not be familiar with using a litter box. Sprinkle dirt or
leaves on top of the litter. Many ferals have only eaten small animals or very bad dry food and will
not take to eating our food at first.
Working with ferals is a very crucial part of what VOKRA does, and is very rewarding. If you are
interested in fostering feral kittens, please e-mail Maria at [email protected] to find out more.
ADOPTION TIME – WILL I CRY??
One of the most frequent things we are asked is: how can you give them up? It is not easy, but
impossible to keep them all and we need you to take care of more kittens for us, as it seems to be a
never-ending stream. Is it sad – you bet! But you can take satisfaction in knowing that if it weren’t
for you, these kittens would have met a terrible end instead of going off to a safe, loving home.
(Keep the Kleenex box handy!)
Adoption Process:
It is not up to you to find homes for the kittens, but if you know of someone who would like to
adopt…please have them fill out an application on line. (NO they cannot phone us!!) Applicants are
pre-screened, but it is a phone interview, so we count on you to let us know if this is a suitable
person. When the kittens are approximately 7 weeks, people will likely be calling you to make
appointments to see them, then filling out the adoption papers and coming back to get the kitten. Do
not release a kitten unless you see the adoption papers or speak to Karen or Elizabeth.
Kittens must go in a proper carrier. Do not allow a kitten to go home in a cardboard container. When
the adopter phones to arrange pick up please remind them of this.
Never, ever promise a cat or kitten to any of your friends and family. They must first fill out the
application and be ok’d to adopt. Remind them that the kittens go to indoor homes only. By leaving
this part up to our end you stay out of it and any bad feelings if we turn them down. That said, if we
send you someone who wants to adopt and you feel it is not the right match, tell them they need to
think about it and get back to you the next day. E-mail Elizabeth at : [email protected] right away
and let us know what is wrong.
The adoption contract must be filled out and the kitten’s adoption fee paid as soon as they decide
they are adopting. There are several people who can do paperwork. Ask the adopter to contact
Elizabeth, or Karen to find closest place to do papers ( this often can be arranged while they are at
your home). Once this is done, if the kittens can’t go home with them immediately and you are ok
holding onto them awhile longer it is fine. We have had people say they are taking kittens and then
disappear to adopt somewhere else, meanwhile we think the kittens are spoken for. So adoption
papers right away, no papers, no kitty! You can call one of the people doing papers if they are ready
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to adopt right away. Permission must be given so that we have arrangements made with the
adopter. Ask the adopter to call any foster homes they have visited to let them know they have not
decided to take that kitten(s). You will appreciate this as well…sometimes foster homes are sure that
the person is going to pick their kitten and then never hear from them again.
Ways you can help:
If you would like to put posters up about your kittens, please do so.. Please include that the cats
must go to indoor homes only, that there is an adoption fee, and a brief description of the home they
would do best in i.e.: no kids, good with dogs etc. Make sure the kittens names or your first name is
on the poster. Our website www.orphankittenrescue.com should be clearly marked on the poster as
well as our name. The message line ( 604) 731-2913, can be used but please do not put yours or any
of our personal phone numbers down. People will be told to fill in an application on line and state
which kitten or foster home is involved. Posters should go up at vets, churches, work place, local pet
stores, community centers, etc. We need all the help we can get to have the word out on our
kittens/cats.
PLEASE KEEP THIS FOSTER INFO SHEET IN A VERY HANDY SPOT !
ENCOURAGE EVERYONE IN HOME TO READ IT THROUGH.
THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR OPENING YOUR HOME TO FOSTER KITTENS OR CATS…WE HOPE YOU ENJOY THE
EXPERIENCE AND WILL WANT TO DO IT OVER AGAIN! IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO BE MORE INVOLVED WITH
VOKRA, WE ARE ALWAYS LOOKING FOR MORE VOLUNTEERS TO DO DRIVING, PHONE WORK, HELP AT
FUNDRAISERS, COMPUTER HELP ETC. LET US KNOW AT [email protected]
Thanks again,
Karen Duncan and all the VOKRA team.
Vancouver Orphan Kitten Rescue
January 07