travel guide
How to Do > Cozumel and Isla Mujeres
“Check two islands off your “must-visit” list for just
one plane ticket. Dive one of the world’s largest coral
reef systems off Cozumel and then curl up under a
palm tree with a book on Isla Mujeres — or chase
whale sharks, your choice.” — ash l ey fra x edas , editor
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Dive Palancar
If you aren’t dive certified, Presidente’s onsite
PADI operator, Scuba
Du, will gladly get you
started.If you are certified, find Francisco and ask him
to take you to the Palancar reef.
The waters off of Cozumel
have up to 200 feet of visibility.
And Palancar is the perfect
place to see it all. Float effortlessly in the Cozumel current
along 40-foot-tall coral heads
past hawksbill turtles, spotted
morrays and gigantic groupers.
You might even see a splendid
toadfish, endemic to Cozumel.
Great news: This is just one
of two dives of the day. After
you slowly ascend from 80 feet,
spend 30 minutes on a deserted
beach to get all the nitrogen out
of your system.
After two dives, you’ll be startving, exhausted and exhilarated.
Order fajitas and a cold Tecate to
your room, and then take a nap.
For dinner, cab it back downD ay
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town with some of your new
diving friends for a celebratory
dinner at La Cocay. The food is
fantastic and the dessert is literally a work of art.
Drive the Island
Rent a car from the
onsite Thrifty car rental
(it’s cheaper than taking
a taxi). Head south.
After being underwater all day yesterday, your scenic
drive around the island will give
you a total feel for Cozumel.
The east side of the island
is all but completely barren.
Ragged rocks line the scruffy
coast. Mini palm trees dominate
the interior to your west.
Just before the road runs out
(the very north-east corner of the
island isn’t navigable), stop at
Coconuts restaurant.The menu
is written on a piece of wood, and
the margaritas are fantastic.
It might be a bit touristy (some
say the cab drivers are paid to
bring hungry customers there),
but eat dinner at Casa Mission.
The food is great (order the
camarones al diablo)... and so
are the margaritas. Order a delicious “sexy coffee” for dessert.
D ay
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Dive, Dive, Dive
You’re on Cozumel.
Do at least two more
dives during the day and
schedule one night dive
to see the sea horses.
Eat dinner onsite. Hopefully,
Antonio Loranca will be plucking
away at his acoustic guitar. You
can even make requests.
D ay
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Go to Isla Mujeres
Take a taxi back downtown, the ferry back to
Playa del Carmen and
a taxi back to Cancun.
But this time, don’t go
to the airport. Ask the driver to
take you to Playa Linda at the
Embarcadero dock at km 4.5.
The Cocoon, the Villa Rolandi’s
private yacht, is waiting for you.
Check into the Villa Rolandi, a
quaint boutique resort right on
the beach. Laze the days away
with Ariel bringing your Modelos
and pico de gallo. On your strip
of private beach, you can see
across to Cancun. Breathe a
sigh of relief that you’re away
from the hustle and bustle.
D ay
• Kalaupapa National Park
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Whales Sharks
If it’s whale shark
season (around August)
and you’re feeling very
adventurous, sign up for
a whale shark tour with
Ceviche Tours. This will be one of
the most incredible experiences
in your life. Your three locals
guides will pick you up in a small
boat from Rolandi’s dock. Then
you’ll head 12 to 35 miles off Isla
Mujeres’ north coast. It takes
about two hours, depending on
the weather, but it’s worth it. All
of the sudden, in the middle of
the ocean, you’ll see hundreds
of dorsal fins popping out of the
water. From the surface, they
look like sharks, but under water,
they look like clumsy whales.
Don’t worry — whale sharks are
the world’s largest fish and feed
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molokai
• Kauanakakai
The Facts PASSPORT NEEDED
> Yes CURRENCY > Pesos official
language > Spanish WHEN TO
GO > Around August to see whale
sharks pack > Your own mask, a
great book and Pepto-Bismol
on plankton. In their natural environment, put on your mask and
fins and jump in for a swim.
Golf Cart Touring
Another afternoon,
rent a golf cart and
drive around the entire
island. It doesn’t even
take an hour. Stop in
downtown to buy a souvenir, but
don’t bother with the crowded
beaches. Rolandi’s deserted
beach is calling you back.
Eat at Rolandi every meal (rotate between steak and lobster),
but save the most special dinner
for a table on the beach at sunset.
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amy k naus
Fly into Cancun
Fly Jet Blue to Cancun (CUN) direct from
multiple cities, including Orlando and Miami.
Say goodbye to
Cancun. At the airport, there are
different taxis and bus services
competing for your business.
Finagle a private taxi ride for the
same price as a bus fare.Whatever you do, don’t pay more than
$70 for two people. Head south
toward Playa del Carmen, where
you’ll ferry over to Cozumel.
Once on Cozumel, pay no more
than $9 for a taxi to the InterContinental Presidente Resort.
Check into your beachfront
suite with private hammock and
outdoor shower. Enjoy your first
Mexican sunset with your first
margarita. Eat on property for
dinner, and then go to bed early.
Tomorrow is your first big dive.
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