FOOD The daily grind Although tea can justifiably be referred to as Ireland’s traditional brew, there has been a huge rise in coffee consumption in recent years. We take a look at what’s on offer and the health issues surrounding this popular beverage. The café society that emerged from the United States has led to an explosion of coffee chains and independent coffee shops all over Ireland. It’s now common to see workers en route to the office clutching a takeaway coffee, and the coffee retail business is worth around €280 million a year. A coffee shop is not only a place to grab a takeaway but also somewhere to relax with a newspaper or a book, or catch up with friends. Many coffee shops also offer free wireless internet access. Some coffee lovers compare coffee to wine, appreciating its finer qualities and endless variety! The coffee bean Like wine, the origin of coffee has a huge effect on its flavour. Two types of bean account for almost all coffee grown worldwide. Arabica beans originate in Ethiopia and many of the finest coffees come from these beans. Robusta beans are cultivated in Africa, the Far East and Brazil. Most ordinary supermarket coffee is made from these but Robusta can also yield high quality beans. A lot can be told about the coffee by looking at the beans. If they are Arabica beans that have been slow-roasted, they will be dark in colour and have a shiny appearance. With some coffees, the beans are roasted very quickly. This results in a light brown colour and very often a dry taste. Coffee may be purchased in whole bean or ground form. Whole beans stay fresh for longer, but ground coffee, once opened, should be kept in a sealed container and used within a few days. Ground coffee loses its flavour quickly and can develop a rancid taste. Ethical sources of coffee The economies of some of the poorest countries in the world are highly dependent on the coffee trade. However, many small coffee farmers are paid far less than their production costs, forcing them into a cycle of poverty and debt. While farmers sell at a loss, business for coffee companies is at an all time high. Fairtrade offers a viable solution to this problem, assuring consumers that their coffee was purchased under fair conditions and certain environmental standards. In Ireland, the FAIRTRADE Mark can be found on a growing range of coffee products in supermarkets, and fair trade coffee is available in many coffee chains and independent coffee shops. AT A GLANCE Coffee terms. Health effects. Mixed messages There are frequent and often contrasting FOOD MARCH 2009 consumer choice Best value. 97 increase the risk of any cancer, except possibly bladder cancer. There has even been a suggestion that drinking coffee can prevent cancer. The explanation for this may be in its non-caffeine components. Coffee contains antioxidants, which have a protective effect against cancer, but no one knows how much protection they offer and coffee would certainly not be recommended as a substitute for your recommended five pieces of fruit and vegetables a day! COFFEE GLOSSARY Useful contacts Food Safety Authority of Ireland Abbey Court Lower Abbey Street Dublin 1 Advice 1890 336 677 tel (01) 817 1300 fax (01) 817 1301 email [email protected] www.fsai.ie Irish Nutrition and Dietetic Institute Ashgrove House Kill Avenue • Acidity Positive term used to describe the sharp, snappy flavour of a coffee. • Aroma Refers to the smell of the coffee and signals its taste. • Barista A person highly skilled in preparing coffee. • Bitter or burnt Undesirable flavour characteristics related to the roasting process. • Blend Combination of two or more varieties of roasted coffees. • Bloom The golden froth on the top of the cup. • Body Refers to the density of the coffee. • Flavour Describes the impression you get when you take the first sip. Mental performance Dun Laoghaire Co. Dublin COFFEE PRICES email [email protected] 1 Product Price (€) Quantity Bagel Factory Americano 2.00 12 oz Bewley’s Cafe Americano 2.30 12 oz Butlers Chocolate Café Americano 2.50 12 oz Café Gusto, Cork Americano 2.35 12 oz Café Luna, Galway Americano 2.00 12 oz Café Sol Americano 2.40 12 oz Coffee Society Americano 2.50 12 oz Insomnia Americano 2.35 12 oz La Cala, Dublin Americano 1.80 12 oz McCafé (McDonald’s) Americano 2.20 12 oz Mews Café, Cork Americano 2.50 12 oz Mojo Café Bar, Limerick Americano 2.20 12 oz Mugshot Café, Kilkenny Americano 2.40 12 oz O’Briens Sandwich Bar Americano 2.20 12 oz Pinocchio Luas Kiosk Ranelagh Americano 2.00 12 oz Starbucks Americano 2.50 12 oz Subway (Dublin 1) Americano 1.50 12 oz Superquinn Café Refresh Americano 2.25 12 oz West Coast Coffee Americano 2.45 12 oz Centra (Dublin 6) Black coffee 1.90 12 oz Londis (Dublin 2) Black coffee 2.00 12 oz Spar (Dublin 6) Black coffee 2.00 12 oz www.indi.ie COFFEE SHOP CONVENIENCE STORE SUPERMARKETS Aldi Alcafe Instant 2.39 200g Jar Dunnes Stores Nescafe Original 5.99 200g Jar Tesco Bewley’s Fairly Traded Organic Ground Coffee 4.79 227g Foil Packed Students often rely on coffee at exam time and there is some evidence to suggest that coffee improves memory and the ability to perform complex tasks. The result of a study that followed 676 healthy, older men from Finland, the Netherlands, and Italy for ten years and measured their cognitive function was published in the European Journal of Clinical Nutrition in 2006. Those who drank coffee had lower rates of agerelated cognitive decline than those who didn't, with maximum protection seen in men who drank three cups of coffee a day. Further studies have suggested that coffee may protect against Parkinson's and Alzheimer's disease, but the evidence isn't strong enough to be certain. Liver health In Italy a 2007 review of the relationship between coffee consumption and the risk of liver cancer found that an increased consumption of coffee may reduce the risk of the disease. The results of another study in 2006 of more than 125,000 people in the US found that the risk of developing cirrhosis of the liver dropped with each cup of coffee the subjects drank per day. Even if coffee does have protective effects, however, keeping within the recommended levels of alcohol intake is the only way to avoid alcoholic cirrhosis. Caffeine hit reports in the media on the health effects of coffee. A review published in the Journal of the American Medical Association in 2006 found that coffee may reduce the risk of type 2 diabetes but this conflicts with earlier evidence suggesting that coffee can reduce insulin sensitivity, which would actually increase the risk of diabetes. Confusion can occur because other lifestyle factors such as smoking or alcohol consumption may 98 consumer choice MARCH 2009 FOOD not be taken into account by researchers when a scientific study is carried out. For example in 1981 a Harvard study showed an increased incidence of pancreatic cancer with coffee consumption. However researchers later concluded that smoking, not coffee, was the likely cause. Antioxidant protection Most studies on a cancer-coffee link have concluded that coffee is unlikely to The caffeine in coffee acts as a stimulant which is why it is often consumed in the morning and during working hours. For most people, one or two cups of coffee in the morning won’t affect their sleeping patterns. However consuming caffeine late in the day can be a problem for those who are sensitive to the stimulant. It is advisable to avoid drinking significant amounts of coffee for at least five or six hours before bed. on the menu • • • • • • • • • Americano An espresso diluted with hot water. Cappuccino An Italian espresso coffee containing steamed, frothy milk and sprinkled with chocolate. Espresso A strong, dark coffee made from roasted and finely ground beans, served in a small cup. Frappuccino A blend of ice and a mix constituted of coffee, water, milk, and various syrups Iced coffee A double strength coffee diluted by melting ice. Instant A powdered, soluble extract from coffee beans. Latte One part espresso to two parts steamed milk, usually served in a tall glass. Macchiato An espresso topped with a little frothed milk. Mocha An espresso mixed with chocolate and topped with whipped cream. Cutting calories? Choose a skinny latte or cappuccino, which is made with skimmed or low fat milk to cut down on calories and fat. Stay well away from deluxe treats such as the Maple White Chocolate Crème, a white chocolate based frappuccino with added maple syrup, served with whipped cream, maple topping and white chocolate sauce! Consumption of coffee before exercise or during times of stress should also be avoided if you have high blood pressure. Drinking a cup of coffee can cause a temporary rise in blood pressure but it isn’t clear whether this can lead to hypertension, a risk factor for heart disease. Caffeine reduces absorption of calcium in the bones, and some scientists have claimed that people who drink coffee regularly have a higher risk of osteoporosis. Overall, drinking a lot of coffee is not recommended, as it contains addictive stimulants which can have negative effects on energy levels and stress, and can inhibit absorption of some vitamins and minerals. The perfect brew Learning how to make your own coffee at home isn’t difficult. We’ve put some tips together to get you started. • Use fresh coffee Freshly roasted coffee should be used in the days after you buy it as it can go stale very quickly. Look for a ‘roasted’ or ‘packed on’ date so you know how old the beans are. • Grind the beans yourself Unless you grind the beans just before brewing, most of the good qualities will be gone. Use coarsely ground beans for percolators, medium for plungers and fine for filters. • Practice makes perfect If the beans are too finely ground the coffee may taste bitter; too coarse and the coffee may be bland. • Instant coffee Once you find a brand you like, experiment with the ratio of water to grounds for the best results. • To add flavour Sprinkle spices or extracts like cinnamon, vanilla, cocoa powder or nutmeg on the grounds before brewing. The price of a cup of coffee can vary dramatically depending on where it’s bought. We looked at the cost of medium sized takeaway Americanos in coffee outlets around Ireland (see our table, opposite). The volume of a ‘cup’ of coffee can vary but in most places the medium sized ‘tall’ cup holds 12 ounces of coffee. The exception was Starbucks where the smallest cup is 12 ounces. The cheapest takeaway Americano we found was just €1.50 in a Subway outlet in Dublin 1, and the dearest, at €2.50, were in Butlers, Starbucks, Mews and Coffee Society. Differences in quality and taste cannot be measured but if you want to save money, it’s wise to shop around. We calculated the average cost of a takeaway Americano at €2.20 but a packet of Bewley’s Fairly Traded Organic Ground Coffee (€4.79 from Tesco) provides 24 cups of coffee, while a 200g jar of instant coffee would provide even more servings. Consumers have evidently begun to make cutbacks as we noticed that a number of outlets have introduced combination deals to try and combat the loss. Some are offering a €5 ‘any coffee, any sandwich’ deal that represents a saving of up to €2.50 in some cases for consumers. CAFFEINE CONTENT For most healthy adults, a moderate amount of caffeine – about 2 to 3 cups of coffee (200-300mg caffeine) per day – should not pose any physical problems. Depending on the type of coffee and method of preparation, the caffeine content of a single serving can vary greatly. On average, a single cup of percolator coffee of about 200mls can be expected to contain between 115 and 175mg of caffeine. Instant coffee has less caffeine than freshly brewed coffee. Tea contains less caffeine but the amount can vary depending on the variety and how long the teabag is steeped for. Beverage • • • • • • Percolator coffee (200ml) Instant coffee (200ml) Espresso (50ml serving) Strong tea (200ml) Hot chocolate Decaf coffee (200ml) Caffeine (mg) 115-175 65-100 100 80-120 20-35 2-5 Report by Sinéad Mc Mahon cc choice comment Drinking coffee has its pros and cons, and its effects vary from person to person. Most people will determine their personal consumption based on their sensitivity to the beverage and on how long they are willing to lie awake at night! Judging from our findings, if you are in the habit of buying a daily coffee on the way to work it can cost over €500 per year! The annual savings can be huge if you make your own coffee in the morning instead. However, if you drink too much you may pay with the jitters and a racing heartbeat. Excessive caffeine can cause anxiety, insomnia, headaches or stomach irritation. In particular, pregnant and breastfeeding women should keep their caffeine intake low. If you enjoy coffee it’s best to stick to no more than two to three cups a day and, if studies are to be believed, you may even reap some benefits for your health. FOOD MARCH 2009 consumer choice 99
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