www.vienna.info
2017
P. 4
P. 8
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2
Dear reader,
Vienna moves in a rhythm that runs through
its musical heritage and inspires its contemporary music scene – sometimes in the leisurely three-four time of the Blue Danube
Waltz, and sometimes to the faster rhythm
of electronic music. It is this apparent contradiction that fuels creativity.
Various anniversaries in 2017 will put the
capital’s musical and imperial heritage center
stage – from the first performance of the Blue
Danube waltz to the birth of Archduchess
Maria Theresa. But contemporary, vibrant
Vienna is also in the limelight.
Editorial
We look at the booming local pop scene
where bands such as Wanda and Bilderbuch
are kicking up a storm on the international
stage. And we pay tribute to Johann Strauss,
waltz king and pop star of his day, whose
Blue Danube Waltz conquered the capital’s
ballrooms and concert halls when it was first
performed 150 years ago. We also hit the
town with drag queen and DJ Tamara Mascara and explore some inspiring chillout options in Vienna’s ‘new’ coffeehouses. A look
behind the scenes at the Opera Ball tells you
everything you have always wanted to know
about going to a ball.
Vienna Journal 2017
—
An architectural tour of Vienna reveals a
view of the city that is rich in contrasts. Many
of its Baroque buildings double up as exhibition spaces, from the Belvedere to the
MuseumsQuartier. Tours like this also pro-
vide a fitting reminder of the legacy of the
Austrian sovereign Maria Theresa, who was
born 300 years ago. In Vienna, Baroque ornamentation is as much a part of the cityscape
as everyday design objects and eye-catching street art.
The capital’s bartenders are also serving
up some special ingredients in their cocktail
glasses: herbs, beetroot and newcomer ‘Wien
Gin’. And on top of all that, the last surviving
milk bars in some of the city’s parks are definitely worth a visit. As are the Heuriger wine
taverns nestled on the slopes of Vienna’s landmark hills – thanks in no small measure to the
spectacular views along the way.
We also went on a safari through the city
and waited for deer, rabbits and other wild animals to put in an appearance at some pretty
unlikely locations. Things take a more active
turn on the Danube, where a wakeboard lift
and whitewater rapids await.
You’ll be amazed how easy it is tune into
the unique, vibrant and sometimes surprising rhythm of Vienna.
Best Regards,
Norbert Kettner
Managing Director, Vienna Tourist Board
Published by: Vienna Tourist Board, Invalidenstrasse 6, 1030 Vienna, www.vienna.info · Concept & edited by Vienna Tourist Board, Andrea Kostner · Project coordination: Paul Daniel · Texts: Susanna Burger, Paul Daniel, Elisabeth Freundlinger, Susanne Kapeller, Andrea
Kostner, Angelika Öttl, Martina Polzer, Robert Seydel · Translated by: Fox Coffey· Edited by: Renate Hofbauer · Picture editor: Anna-Elisabeth Menz · Photo researcher: Elisabeth Freundlinger · Layout: Kreativ · Mag. Evelyne Sacher-Toporek · Creative direction: seite zwei branding & design · Printed in Austria by Ferdinand Berger & Söhne GmbH · 2914/16/95
VIENNA
No liability accepted for errors or omissions. Content subject to change without notice.
Das Österreichische Umweltzeichen
für Druckerzeugnisse, UZ 24, UW 686
Ferdinand Berger & Söhne GmbH.
Picture credits
Cover: Opera Ball: © Vienna Tourist Board/Peter Rigaud/Couture: Vivienne Westwood Vienna · Pages 2-3 see corresponding pages · Page 4-5 In the Rhythm of Vienna; Dance scene: © Museums of the Johann Strauss Dynasty archive, Vienna, Müllnergasse 3; Music Film
Festival: © Vienna Tourist Board/Christian Stemper; Bilderbuch: © Christoph Pöll; Red Bar, Volkstheater: © Vienna Tourist Board/Peter Rigaud ; Summer Night’s Concert: © Vienna Philharmonic, Richard Schuster · Page 6-7 Big on Baroque; Belvedere: © Belvedere, Vienna; Spanish Riding School: © Vienna Tourist Board/Lois Lammerhuber; Winter Palace: Photo: Oskar Schmidt, © Belvedere, Vienna; MuseumsQuartier: © Vienna Tourist Board/Christian Stemper; Maria Theresa: Martin van Meytens the younger, Franz I Stephan and Maria
Theresia with eleven children, Kunsthistorisches Museum Wien © KHM; Rubens: Peter Paul Rubens, The Four Rivers of Paradise, Kunsthistorisches Museum Wien © KHM · Pages 8-9 Shake it, baby; Miranda: © Atelier Olschinsky (architecture: Tzou Lubroth Architekten);
Erich: © www.christofwagner.com; Barrikade: © Julian Steindorfer; Steirereck: © Steirereck GmbH; Old sausage stand: IMAGNO/Austrian Archives; New sausage stand: © Vienna Tourist Board/Hertha Hurnaus · Page 10 Art out of a can; Nychos polar bear: “Dissection Of
A Polar Bear”, corner of Quellenstrasse and Knöllgasse, Vienna 2015 © Dan Armand/1XRun; Urania: © Vienna Tourist Board/Christian Stemper; Vienna walls: Shepard Fairey, Faith47, Vienna2013 © Katharina Stoegmueller, Galerie ErnstHilger · Page 11 Icons of their age;
Normalzeit clock: © Lichterloh.com; Public restroom: © Kronsteiner/PID; Normalzeit Brigitte Kowanz: © Anja Hitzenberger · Pages 12-13 Backstage at the Opera Ball; © Vienna Tourist Board/Peter Rigaud/Couture: Vivienne Westwood Vienna; Page 14 All creatures great
and small; All photos: © WienTourismus/Wiener Wildnis · Page 15 Danube; Stand up: © SUP-Center; Picnic: © Vienna City Beach Club; Beach volleyball: © Sebastian Marko/Swatch Beach Volleyball Major Series/Red Bull Content Pool · Page 16-17 Night shift with Tamara
Mascara; All photos of Tamara Mascara: © WienTourismus / Rainer Fehringer; Supersense: © Gebhard Sengmüller; Balthasar: © Nicky Webb · Page 18-19 Music for all the family; Members of the Vienna Boys’ Choir: © Vienna Tourist Board/Lukas Beck; Magic Flute: © Vienna State Opera/Michael Pöhn; Mozart: © Mozarthaus Vienna Eva Kelety; Queen of the Night: © Vienna State Opera/Michael Pöhn; House of Music: © Hanna Pribitzer 20121129; Schönbrunn giraffe park: © DI Peter Hartmann; Dinosaurs: © NHM Wien, Kurt Kracher; Horse-drawn carriage: ©Vienna Tourist Board/Peter Rigaud; Old Viennese Christmas Market: © Vienna Tourist Board/Peter Rigaud; Page 20 Enjoyment with style – vineyards and vistas; Hoffmann bowls: Josef Hoffmann, goblet, hand blown; l-r: yellow glass, 1923; violet glass,
1922; Produced by Böhmische Manufaktur for Wiener Werkstätte © MAK; Hoffmann portrait: Josef Hoffmann, Portrait, 1903 © MAK; Archduke Rudolf glass service: Glass service for Archduke Rudolf, engraved RR with crown; carafe and two wine glasses Vienna, J. & L.
Lobmeyr, 1858-1869 © Bundesmobilienverwaltung, Imperial Silver Collection, Hofburg Vienna; Fasslbecher glass: © DAS GOLDENE WIENER HERZ®; Wine bottles: EinLiterWien: © Katharina Gossow 2015; Fräulein Rose: © Mayer am Pfarrplatz; Lenikus Riesling Beerenauslese: © Weingut Lenikus; Lenikus Nussberg: © Weingut Lenikus; Cobenzl Riesling: © Weingut Cobenzl; Liesenpfenning: © WienWein; Heuriger wine tavern: ©: Vienna Tourist Board/Peter Rigaud · Page 22 Travel information; Tourist Info Albertinaplatz: © Hertha Hurnaus;
Short films about Vienna: © VIS | Mercan Sümbültepe · Page 23 Highlights; Don Camillo: © Andreas J. Etter; Cathedral Museum: © Cathedral Museum Vienna Easter market: © Vienna Tourist Board/Karl Thomas; Marathon: © VCM / Michael Gruber; Weltmuseum Wien
featherwork crown: © KHM-Museumsverband; ImpulsTanz: © Anne Van Aerschot; Rock in Vienna: © Rock in Vienna/Florian Matzhold; Wiener Wiesn: © Harald Klemm; Vienna Design Week: © Markus Guschelbauer
3
From the Vienna Philharmonic to
pop sensation Wanda, and the finest
electronica: music shapes the Viennese way of life.
Vienna’s Baroque palaces and
mansion houses are still every bit as
fascinating to this day. 2017 marks
the 300th anniversary of the birth of
a Baroque figurehead: Maria Theresa.
Vienna’s bar scene is going
places. Numerous new watering
holes follow some interesting
blueprints.
Milk bars were once the height
of fashion. Some are still around
and, just like Vienna’s sausage
stands, they have their rightful
place in the city’s culinary cosmos.
The section of the Danube that runs
through Vienna extends for more
than 25 kilometers – a leisure El
Dorado with beach clubs, restaurant
and much more besides...
Beavers, ground squirrels and gray
herons all live in Vienna. A city safari
with photographer Georg Popp.
Contents
Everyday objects elevated to cult
status? Cube clock, pavilion urinals –
timeless, fit-for-purpose ... and
iconic.
We follow two couples at Vienna’s
world-famous Opera Ball and take a
look behind the scenes at the capitals best-known ball.
Vienna Journal 2017 —
Graffiti is part of the look and feel of Vienna.
International street art superstars can’t get
enough of the capital. Starting from Vienna,
street artist Nychos has gone on to take the
world by storm.
An indispensable guide for party
people – with tips from the largerthan-life make-up artist, burlesque
performer and drag queen Tamara
Mascara.
Luxury glasses and original wine label designs
are an integral part of Viennese wine culture
– as are the city’s wine taverns, many of which
can be found on its landmark hills.
Travel basics and tips to help you get
more out of your stay – from hotel
reservations and purchasing Vienna
Cards to free maps of the city. And
no end of event highlights.
VIENNA
The Viennese coffeehouse is an
institution. One that is constantly
reinventing itself. Which is why new
cafés with fresh takes on long-held
traditions are opening all the time.
Children love music. Which is why
music takes the lead in the capital’s
family attractions. Alongside voyages
of discovery in the old town that take in
butterflies and dinosaurs.
4
Music/In the Rhythm of Vienna
From the Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra to pop
sensation Wanda, and from the dulcet tones of
the waltz to the finest electronica: music is an
essential part of life in Vienna. In fact, it is the
city’s heartbeat. The Viennese are devoted to their
classical masters, always putting quality first. And
recently a few young guns have used their powerful
creative energy to turn the city of music on its
head. Whatever their preference, visitors should
make time to listen to both sides of the story.
T E X T: S U S
AN
N
A
BU
Vienna Journal 2017
—
RGER
The recent boom on the capital’s pop scene is a real phenomenon – this hotbed of creativity is making itself felt far beyond the limits of the city where new musical heroes dream of
immortality.
Dancers at Dommayers Casino. Viennese joie de vivre in the days of the
Strauss clan, on show in the Museum of the Johann Strauss Dynasty.
BOOMING POP SCENE
Bands like BILDERBUCH perform with the self-confidence of royalty. In a recent interview
with Die Zeit, frontman Maurice Ernst confirmed that he is, in his own words, creating “new
Viennese soul” while connecting with other areas of the capital’s creative scene. In the band’s
music videos, he wears fashion by young Viennese designers such as DMMJK. Modesty is not
really one of his strengths: BILDERBUCH pop sounds sexy, with a generous dose of hubris:
“Will you marry me, I’ll buy us a house made of gold and mother of pearl” he sings from the
driver’s seat of a yellow Lamborghini in hit single Maschin.
The five musicians that make up WANDA are no less convinced of their own greatness:
drenched in local Viennese color, glamor and excess, the lyrics tend to center on heartache.
Hits like Bologna and Bussi Baby gave them their international breakthrough. Invitations to
headline at various major festivals followed in 2016.
VIENNA
INDIE TO ELECTRIC
Lead singer Marco Michael Wanda does not hesitate to praise two colleagues who fit the indie
bill through and through: SOAP&SKIN’S (aka Anja Plaschg) captivating minimalist melodies
and electronic sounds send a shiver down the spine thanks to their melancholic undertones.
The unashamedly outspoken NINO AUS WIEN treats his lyrics as catharsis – a way to express
his frustration with the world. While neither are exactly everyday sounds, both add color to
the shimmering Viennese music scene.
Deep grooves, fat beats and subterranean sounds pour out of the city’s clubs and late
night joints in waves. Jazz, rock, pop, world music and electronica are all served up live or
mixed, and always danceable. Even those not spending time in the city are bound to stumble
across the authentic sounds of Vienna sooner or later – including those of local DJs such as
Wolfram Eckert and Patrick Pulsing, both of whom are familiar faces on the international circuit.
5
DANUBE SO BLUE
The idea of Vienna taking a leading role in the world of music is far from a new one: the capital
has always been synonymous with musical creativity. The masters of Viennese classical music – Haydn, Mozart, Beethoven – created an extraordinary legacy. Their younger colleague,
the waltz king Johann Strauss, was at the heart of a cult of celebrity. 150 years ago, on 15 February 1867, the sound of Austria’s unofficial national anthem rang out for the first time – the
Blue Danube waltz is now an integral part of any Viennese ball, and the encore at the Vienna
Philharmonic’s New Year’s Concert.
This and many other musical masterpieces are deservedly performed in the city on a
regular basis, sometimes to the original score and sometimes with a contemporary twist.
Vienna’s newest opera house, the Theater an der Wien, is famous for its inspired opera productions – 2017 will bring Werner Egk’s PEER GYNT and Henry Purcell’s THE FAIRY QUEEN.
The 15,000 concerts held in the city each year offer a truly varied program – extending
from early music and Baroque at the Resonanzen festival, through to the greats of classical
music and, finally, contemporary compositions at the Wien Modern festival. Johann Strauss
and the no less fun-loving Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart would no doubt enjoy delving into
Vienna’s present day music scene.
Bilderbuch take German-language music to a new level. Defiant poses, laid back attitude, pop sounds and a cheeky
outlook. (top) Partying and dancing the night away in Vienna’s clubs and popular nightspots today. (below)
CONCERT TIP
Curtain up on
Rathausplatz
ALL EYES AND EARS ARE ON RATHAUSPLATZ IN JULY AND AUGUST WHEN THE
MUSIC FILM FESTIVAL BRINGS TOGETHER CULTURE VULTURES AND BON VIVANTS.
WITH THREE QUARTERS OF A MILLION VISITORS EACH YEAR, IT IS EUROPE’S
LARGEST FREE CULTURE AND FOOD FESTIVAL.
In 2017 the 27 Club will take center stage: the name of course referring to artists that
died at the tender age of 27. Members include Amy Winehouse, Kurt Cobain, Jimi Hendrix
and Janis Joplin. The 2017 event will also feature special concert screenings to mark a number of major birthdays including Kurt Cobain (50), Jimi Hendrix (75), Elton John (70), Barbra
Streisand (75), Ella Fitzgerald and Dean Martin (both 100).
And then there are films of productions at major opera houses including La Scala in Milan
and the Vienna State Opera, as well as performances by top orchestras such as the Vienna
Philharmonic and the Wiener Symphoniker.
Besides all the music, delicacies from 26 different concession stands take concertgoers
on a culinary grand tour. Convenience food is a no-no, with regional organic produce the
standard bearer instead. Sun shades provide respite from the sun – and keep diners dry if the
weather takes a turn for the worse.
The daily opening hours run from 11 in the morning all the way through to midnight, and
audiences represent a huge cross section: people looking to quench their thirst or have a bite
to eat, locals out relaxing after work and visitors to the city taking time out from seeing the
sights. The venue really comes into its own when night falls, by which time the 2,000 seats
have all been claimed by music lovers. Lights, camera, action!
EVEN MORE ACTION ON RATHAUSPLATZ
A packed program of events stretches out across the whole year.
Jan 24-Mar 12, 2017
Covering 8,000 square meters VIENNA ICE WORLD is a romantic
winter fairyland.
May 12, 2017
Thousands of people attend the VIENNA FESTIVAL OPENING CEREMONY,
which heralds the start of five weeks of contemporary stagecraft.
Jun 10, 2017
The LIFE BALL – featuring a larger-than-life outdoor opening
ceremony – is Europe’s largest and most flamboyant charity event in
the fight against AIDS.
Jun 28-Jul 10, 2017
At VIENNA JAZZ FESTIVAL the stage in front of the big screen sets the
scene for performances by international newcomers.
July-August 2017
At midday on Sundays live bands take to the MUSIC FILM FESTIVAL
for the always popular jazz matinees.
Nov 12-Dec 26, 2017
The CHRISTMAS MARKET and VIENNA CHRISTMAS WORLD
transform Rathausplatz into a winter wonderland.
VIENNA
EVENTS
In July and August the Music Film Festival offers fresh concert footage daily – from opera to jazz.
Rathausplatz occupies a prime location the heart of Vienna. This impressive square in front of
the capital’s Neo-Gothic City Hall is flanked by the greenery of the Rathauspark on two sides,
with the Ringstrasse boulevard and the Burgtheater opposite. One of many events that plays
out here every year, the summertime Music Film Festival is in a class of its own.
As in each of the past 26 years, more than 60 top productions will be shown on a
300-square-meter screen in July and August 2017. There is something to suit every taste: from
opera, operetta and classical concerts to ballet, contemporary dance, jazz, rock and pop.
Vienna Journal 2017 —
Music/Curtain up on Rathausplatz
On May 25, 2017, the
Vienna Philharmonic
will host another
Summer Night’s Concert
in the grounds of
Schönbrunn Palace –
a classical open air
spectacle performed in
front of thousands and
broadcast to millions
more live on TV.
6
Vienna Journal 2017
—
Imperial Vienna/Big on Baroque?
Prince Eugene’s former summer residence and now a world-class museum: the Belvedere is
a Baroque Gesamtkunstwerk, or total work of art.
T E X T: R O B E RT S E Y D E L
VIENNA
Pomp and finery have always been used to proclaim
and signify power. Vying to outdo each other, the
Viennese nobility and clergy built impressive Baroque
palaces as an expression of their superiority.
Vienna not only eagerly adopted pizza and espresso from Italy – Baroque architecture is another famous Italian import. Unashamed opulence and sweeping curves are the defining characteristics of this era, which dawned in Vienna with the counter reformation around 1600
and reached its peak in the eighteenth century with a late-Baroque building boom. Everyone in the imperial capital who was anyone commissioned the leading architects of the day
to build palaces, mansions and churches for them. The services of Johann Lucas von Hildebrandt and Johann Bernhard Fischer von Erlach were in particularly high demand. The former
started work on Prince Eugene’s UPPER BELVEDERE PALACE in 1717, a hilltop monument to
prosperity that has lost nothing of its majesty over the centuries. The Upper Belvedere palace,
gardens and Lower Belvedere – as well as the palace’s world-famous Klimt collection – form
a Baroque Gesamtkunstwerk, or total work of art.
Vienna’s best-known Baroque church was commissioned by Karl VI. Commonly referred
to as the Baroque Emperor, Maria Theresa’s father built the Karlskirche (Church of St. Charles)
from 1716 to thank divine providence for delivering the city from the plague. Contrary to most
assumptions, the place of worship takes its name from a different Charles, Charles Borromeo,
the saint famed for his work during the plague. The ceiling paintings by Johann Michael
Rottmayr are definitely worth a look, and thanks to the panorama lift visitors can inspect
them up close. It took more than 20 years to complete the church, which like so many other Baroque edifices in the capital, was a monument to the Habsburg’s secular and spiritual
clout. Not only did they successfully stem the tide of Protestantism, they also broke the Turkish
siege in the 1683 Battle of Vienna.
The Lipizzaner stallions dance in the Baroque Winter Riding School. (left) The Winter Palace is back to its
golden best after a major refurbishment project. (right)
Maria Theresa:
mother and political
powerhouse
The elevator suddenly ground to a halt. And there she was, suspended between the living and
the dead. The lift was specially installed to take the popular – and portly – ruler to and from
the Imperial Burial Vault, sparing her the need to negotiate the tricky steps on her way to visit
her husband’s final resting place. According to the legend, “The Dear Lord wants to keep me
here,” was her lament. And it seems she was right, as she passed away just a few days later.
But back to the living: 13 May 2017 marks the 300th anniversary of Maria Theresa’s birth.
Exhibitions at the Imperial Furniture Collection, the Imperial Carriage Museum and Schloss Hof
and Schloss Niederweiden in Lower Austria (Mar 15-Nov 29, 2017) and at the National Library
(Feb 17-June 5, 2017) focus on the life and times of the Archduchess. And what a fascinating tale it is. She was the eldest daughter of the last male Habsburg, Emperor Karl VI. In the
eighteenth century, having no son and no legitimate heirs often spelled the end of a dynasty. So it is possible to imagine the controversy that surrounded her accession to the throne
in 1740. But she fought her corner and became the first and only woman to rule in the entire
history of the archduchy of Austria – she was even crowned Queen of Bohemia and, somewhat bizarrely, King of Hungary. In her case, the title of Empress was purely honorary and
only bestowed on her because she was married to the Holy Roman Emperor Franz Stephan
von Lothringen. The marriage, one of only a handful of love matches in the dynasty’s history, produced 16 children.
CONTROVERSIAL MATRIMONIAL PROTOCOL
The image of Maria Theresa as a benevolent mother figure is anchored in the public conscience, thanks in no small way to her large number of children. But that is not entirely accurate as she, like all rulers, saw her offspring as dynastic capital. For the high price of an alliance with former arch enemy France, she bartered away five of her children, casting aside
her principles in the process. Although she despised her husband’s string of lovers, she was
savvy enough to conspire with the most famous mistress of the day (Madame Pompadour)
to install her daughter Marie Antoinette on the French throne. The tragic denouement of this
marital horse-trading is all too well-known. With her head, Marie Antoinette lost her crown.
In Austria Maria Theresa initiated numerous reforms with the help of her advisers: public
administration, the armed forces, the economy and the education system were all modernized.
The General School Decree of 1774 laid the foundation for mandatory universal education. Traces of Maria Theresa’s rule can be found all over Vienna, including at Schönbrunn Palace which
was significantly extended at her behest. Located on the square between the Naturhistorisches
Museum Vienna and the Kunsthistorisches Museum, the monument dedicated to her was the
largest and most expensive of any on the Ringstrasse. And the giant double sarcophagus in
the Imperial Burial Vault puts all the others in the shade. Maria Theresa was laid to rest in the
Baroque masterpiece in 1780 after 14,650 days on the throne. Next to her beloved Franzl.
RUBENS AT THE KHM
EXHIBITION
Maria Theresa surrounded by family (painted by Martin van Meytens the younger). She was mother to an impressive number of 16 children.
BENEVOLENT MATRIARCH OR
HARD-BITTEN MONARCH? EMPRESS MARIA THERESA
WAS AN IMPRESSIVE WOMAN IN MANY DIFFERENT WAYS.
2017 MARKS THE 300TH ANNIVERSARY OF HER BIRTH.
Imperial Vienna/Maria Theresia : mother and political powerhouse
Prince Eugene kept his extensive repository
of books in his city residence, the Baroque
Winter Palace, which dates back to 1696. Today it is the setting for contemporary art. The
state rooms and the grand staircase have
been returned to their original glory with
an abundance of velvet, stucco and gold.
But when it comes to opulence, the
LIECHTENSTEIN CITY PALACE wins hands
down. Started in 1691, it is prized as the capital’s oldest major example of high Baroque
architecture. The property was fully renovated a few years ago for an eye-watering
100 million euros. The two upper floors of
the building contain one of the most impressive Baroque grand staircases to be found in
Vienna. Finished in the Neo-Rococo style, the
state rooms feature parquet flooring from
Thonet and heavy chandeliers that have lost
nothing of their luster. Princess Nora Fugger
wrote in her autobiography (published in
1932): “For beauty and grandiosity, the palace is unmatched in the whole of Europe.”
Which would not have been music to the
Italians’ ears.
7
Vienna Journal 2017 —
BAROQUE CITY RESIDENCES
The Kunsthistorisches Museum owns
around 40 works by world-famous Flemish Baroque painter Peter Paul Rubens
(1577-1640). From October 17, 2017 Rubens:
Metamorphoses will put the painter’s creativity in the spotlight, in a show that will see
works from the museum’s own collection
go on display alongside international loans.
rubens2017.khm.at
VIENNA
Karl VI also commissioned the construction of
a Baroque stable complex near the Hofburg in
1713. The imperial poultry farmstead was singled out to make way for the new development, which would accommodate 600 horses
and 200 carriages. Now free of horses and
without a chicken in sight, it has been given
a new lease on life as the MuseumsQuartier,
one of the world’s largest arts and culture
complexes, and home to Klimt, Schiele,
Warhol and comfy outdoor furnishings. The
Leopold Museum, mumok, Kunsthalle Wien
and Architekturzentrum Wien share the space
with bars and chillout zones.
But the Spanish Riding School is still
the home of haute école horsemanship to
this day. Performances by the world-famous
Lippizaner stallions are hosted in the Baroque winter riding school (1729-1735). And
the opulent GRAND HALL OF THE AUSTRIAN
NATIONAL LIBRARY (1723-1726) contains
books from the former court library and
Prince Eugene’s private collection.
One of the largest cultural complexes on the planet: the MuseumsQuartier. Modern museum
buildings and lounge furniture are in perfect harmony with the Baroque surroundings.
FROM CHICKEN RUN TO THE
MUSEUMSQUARTIER
T E X T: S U SA N N E K A P E L L E R
Vintage cocktails are the order of the day in the contemporary Miranda Bar.
Vienna Journal 2017
—
Gastronomy/Shake it, Baby!
8
Vienna’s bar scene is going places right
now. Bars following all kinds of blueprints
are opening up all over town: in some,
bartenders can be found slaving away over
a hot stove making the ingredients for their
cocktail creations themselves, while others
focus on local spirits and bringing longforgotten classics back to the table.
In a number of cocktail bars in the city, patrons will find all
kinds of homemade essences bubbling away in the background. Dubbed “cuisine style”, the latest trend to sweep the
capital’s bar scene has triggered a proliferation of homemade
lemonades, infusions, syrups and liqueurs. DIY is back, and
bartenders are doubling up as cooks – a development that is
very much in evidence at BARRIKADE in the Marktwirtschaft
hall. The jars of preserved fruits, roots and liqueurs lining the
countertops are not just for show. Barrikade even makes its
own tonic water. The beetroot and horseradish cocktails are
particularly unusual.
HERB GARDEN IN A COCKTAIL GLASS.
Almost more of a kitchen than a bar: Barrikade at
Marktwirtschaft
VIENNA
The gold-paneled bar at Erich provides a stylish focal point.
Giant pickling jars take pride of place on the shelves at HEUER
AM KARLSPLATZ. This bar specializes in vinegar-based fruit
syrups known as shrubs. Its homemade preserves, syrups and
essences are also used in the restaurant’s kitchens, while the
herbs are picked fresh from the neighboring Karls Garten.
At BOTANICAL GARDEN the name says it all: the herbs and
spices for the homemade infusions and juices are harvested
from herb planters suspended directly above the cocktail bar.
HOMAGE TO VIENNA
Bar staff tending a hot stove are only one aspect of Vienna’s
new approach to mixology. Many bars are using local spirits
to give their cocktails a special twist. By changing its recipe on multiple occasions over the years, Viennese vermouth
producer Burschik (est. 1891) never grows old. As a result,
BURSCHIK’S VERMOUTH has recently found its way back
onto the capital’s drinks menus in recent years – either unadulterated or as a mixer. Stockists include the KUSSMAUL
restaurant, which also has a fantastic cocktail bar.
R&Bar (pronounced Rundbar) with its stunning 1950s look
A new generation of bartenders is revisiting the canon of
classic cocktails. The recipes, some of which date back
more than 100 years, are celebrating a comeback. Popular
haunt MIRANDA BAR is among the places to pick up on this
trend, serving long-forgotten cocktails – including numerous
fizz mixes – in an inviting and contemporary atmosphere.
KLEINOD is another devotee of all things vintage, a theme
that runs through its art deco interiors as well as its cocktails.
It almost goes without saying that both of these bars make a
lot of their ingredients themselves.
Various bars have struck the perfect mix, proving that excellent food and excellent drinks are a match made in heaven.
Both aperitif aficionados, ROBERTO AMERICAN BAR and the
charming 1950s-style R&BAR, serve fantastic snacks with
their cocktails.
MILK BARS, KNOWN LOCALLY AS MEIEREIEN, ENJOYED THEIR HEYDAY
IN VIENNA IN THE NINETEENTH AND THE EARLY TWENTIETH CENTURY.
A NUMBER OF EXAMPLES CAN BE FOUND IN VIENNESE PARKS TO THIS DAY.
Street food, the
Viennese way
STREET FOOD IS ON THE TIP OF EVERYONE’S TONGUES
RIGHT NOW – THANKS TO THE SAUSAGE STANDS, DINING
ON THE FLY HAS A LONG TRADITION IN VIENNA ANYWAY.
Vienna’s first wave of sausage stands came about in the days
of the monarchy, as a way to provide a livelihood for disabled veterans. The precursors of the modern-day kiosks were
wheeled contraptions containing boiling pans of water filled
with sausages. Created by Johann Georg Lahner in 1805, the
Frankfurter was a runaway success. Interestingly, the variety
is known by most people internationally as a Wiener sausage.
Burenwurst, Blutwurst, Leberwurst and Bratwurst were also
highly popular. It wasn’t until the 1960s that sausage vendors
finally had fixed stands. These kiosks are now part of the cityscape and a Viennese culinary trademark.
Viennese escargots were once typical street food, and
there was even a special snail market behind the Peterskirche
up until the nineteenth century. Rumored to have aphrodisiac
properties, escargots farmed in the capital were also dubbed
“Viennese oysters.” Market traders sold boiled and candied
snails as snacks, and they also came deep fried, or wrapped
in bacon and served with weinkraut (sauerkraut with apples).
Viennese escargots are available to try once again at various
street food markets in the city.
The history of the capital’s chestnut roasters dates back
to the eighteenth century when Empress Maria Theresa granted a German minority in Slovenia permission to sell their
wares as street vendors. Today, chestnut braziers can be found
around virtually every corner as soon as the mercury starts
to fall.
In their original incarnation, Meiereien were dairy farms or smallholdings that would keep the
local population supplied with milk. In a continuation of this rustic tradition, milk bars were
built in numerous parks and beauty spots, soon gaining a strong following. During construction
work to regulate the course of the Wienfluss river through Stadtpark, the architects Friedrich
Ohmann and Josef Hackhofer built a pavilion-shaped Meierei that opened in 1903. Today it
contains the Steirereck, which is one of the best restaurants in town. Directly attached is the
Meierei, which pays homage to its days as a milk bar with a wall of white milk bottles and a
menu featuring some 120 varieties of cheese.
In 1924 a former water board building in the Volksgarten was converted into a milk bar.
The eight-sided pavilion is now a down-to-earth bar that goes by the name of Café Meierei
Volksgarten. There is another Meierei in the Prater, where a Viennese dairy took over one of
the pavilions built for the World Exhibition, also in 1924. Still the site of a bar and restaurant,
it is now called Meierei im Prater. Türkenschanzpark also has a former milk bar: Meierei Diglas
serves sweet and savory snacks including pastries from its Fleischmarkt patisserie. Meanwhile
in Arenbergpark a small Baroque garden pavilion located in the shadow of one of the huge
flak towers operates as a Meierei. The only thing about Manameierei in Schwarzenbergpark
that has anything to do with a milk bar is the reference in its name. This attractive restaurant
on the fringes of the Vienna Woods is a popular destination for day trippers.
FOOD TIP
Culinary delights are the be-all
and end-all at the annual
Genussfestival in Stadtpark
(May 12-14, 2017).
Handcarts with cauldrons of water containing sausages (1900) were the
precursors to modern-day sausage stands.
These days, the capital’s sausage stands bring together people from all
walks of life.
Vienna Journal 2017
available from Julius Meinl
am Graben, Merkur am
Hohen Markt, The Viennastore, Vienna1900Store
— Gastronomy/A glass of milk in the park/Street food, the Viennese way
WIEN GIN
A glass of milk in the park
The fêted Steiereck, ranked ninth in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants,
used to be a Meierei milk bar.
9
VIENNA
SOUVENIR
Heuer am Karlsplatz and Kleinod also use local Burschik
vermouth, as well as WIEN GIN. Made by the three Kesselbrüder friends, the latter can be sampled at ERICH’S stylish,
gold-paneled bar or the SALONPLAFOND IM MAK restaurant.
With its Art Nouveau-inspired label this fantastic gin is also
a popular souvenir.
It’s not just products from Vienna that find their way into
the capital’s cocktail glasses – the rest of the country has a
part to play too. Fruit brandies and sweet dessert wines are
also suitable for cocktails, both of which are TÜR 7’s forte.
Famous for preparing its own ingredients, this bar has a private living room atmosphere and prospective patrons should
remember to make a reservation by phone. In a throwback to
the days of prohibition, visitors have to ring the bell, speakeasy-style, before they can enter the premises.
VINTAGE COCKTAILS
Vienna Journal 2017
—
Street Art/Art out of a can
Nychos surveys his 400m² piece entitled Dissection Of A Polar Bear.
10
Ever stopped to take a closer look? Not
every building facade is a monument
to muted monochrome. Graffiti art and
murals are an integral part of the look and
feel of Vienna.
That said, 400 square meter works are still a rarity. It is still not that long ago that graffiti and
street art created by anonymous artists were seen as anything but art. Troops of painters
would be dispatched to restore sad walls to their original state before the artistic interventions. These days, the creators of wall paintings in public spaces are celebrated as stars, and
invited to pretty up moribund corners in cities all over the world. After all, “the true value of
street art lies in the way it enhances an area and adds to a city’s attractiveness, while drawing attention to social ills.” These are the words of someone who knows what she is talking
about: Katrin-Sophie Dworczak is the organizer and curator of the Cash, Cans & Candy festival and director of the Hilger NEXT gallery in the hip and happening Brotfabrik art cluster.
She has already brought a number of international stars to Vienna such as Bumblebee (USA),
Faile (USA), Faith47 (South Africa) and Stinkfish (Colombia), who have been making their mark
on the city since the inaugural festival back in 2013.
In an interview with the Vienna Journal, big-name Austrian street artist Nychos confirms
that the capital’s scene has come on in leaps and bounds: “Still, interest in urban art is only
just beginning to take hold.” Pointing out that developments are slower in Vienna than other cities, Nychos notes: “The city has lots to offer aesthetically and architecturally, which
means there just isn’t the same compulsion to create public art here as there is elsewhere.”
“Slowly but surely, people are starting to open up and are enjoying a breath of fresh air. And
about time too!”
Shepard Fairey and Faith47 have immortalized themselves at the Brotfabrik.
VIENNA
Vienna’s Danube Canal is one of several
hotspots for street artists.
POLAR BEARS AND PIGEONS
One of Nychos’ best-known works in Vienna, Dissection Of A Polar Bear, can be found in Knöllgasse in the tenth district. It only took him four days to complete the 400-square-meter artwork. Rabbit Eye Movement, his full service agency on Gumpendorfer Strasse, has a gallery,
café, shop and creative center, and is one of only a handful of street-art hotspots in Vienna.
Nychos, who has worked in 15 different cities worldwide and staged solo shows in New York,
San Francisco, Singapore and Turin has dedicated his career to “raising awareness and bringing street artists together.”
With a considerable degree of success, by the
looks of things. The days of shadowy masked
figures creeping through the streets under
cover of darkness, spray can in hand, ready to
give the city’s walls a makeover, are long gone.
2004 saw the birth of Wiener Wand, an
initiative that opened up 5,000 square meters of wall space in 15 different locations
throughout the capital to budding street artists. Many of these walls, which are clearly
marked with a pigeon symbol, can be found
next to the Danube Canal. The banks of this
city center waterway are a hotspot for street
art and the graffiti scene. Here, youth subculture and street art rub shoulders with hip
beach bars and restaurants.
11
Other impressive artworks can be found
at Brotfabrik (tenth district), the Theresianum
(fourth district), Naschmarkt (sixth district) and
Westbahnhof, where the artists Cyrcle & Gaia
and Cone The Weird have brightened up the
multi-level car park both inside and out. The
Graffiti Museum offers tours of the capital’s
best Viennese street art locations. Meanwhile,
murals created by art platform INOPERAbLE
help the city to keep up appearances.
There is just one open question though:
Who do these works of art actually belong to?
Nychos explains: “Nobody and everybody.
Which is why we create our works in public spaces. So that everyone has access to
them.”
SIMPLE EVERYDAY OBJECTS CAN TAKE ON CULT STATUS
AS TIME PASSES. IN VIENNA, AN INTRIGUING PUBLIC CLOCK
AND A HIGHLY UNUSUAL PAVILION ARE CASES IN POINT.
VIENNESE CUBE CLOCK
In the early 20th century, there was no uniform way to measure time in Europe – the majority
of citizens set their clocks according to church towers. But for an up-and-coming urban hub
such as Vienna, introducing standard time was essential. The municipal clocks department
and clockmakers Schauer were entrusted with the development of an electric public clock.
In August 1907 the first prototype went up at the point where Opernring and Kärntnerstrasse
meet. It was the first clock in the world that was illuminated and number-free, and used a master/slave set up. In addition to being practical, the cuboid form of the beveled housing also
made a striking aesthetic statement. The cube clock would go on to shape the cityscape over
the coming generations more than virtually any other object, and it soon became a modernist icon. The words “Normalzeit” (standard time) on the face gave a clear assurance that the
clock displayed Central European Time with unerring accuracy.
By 1938 there were 37 cube clocks in the capital, with the number rising to 78 (their highest level) by 1980. Over the decades, various optical and technical adjustments were made.
From 1971 onwards the clocks were radio-controlled, and GPS technology was introduced in
2002. But whatever was happening on the inside, the cube clocks claimed a special place in
Viennese hearts, and it became hard to imagine life without them. If one was removed, locals kicked up an enormous fuss. The introduction of the new generation of cube clocks in
2008 was met with some serious grumbling. The original clocks, fêted to this day as a paradigm of 20th century design, found their way into literature and even feature in exhibitions
and museum displays.
And now they are available in wristwatch format. A limited production run of 1,907 watches
can be bought e.g. from Lichterloh in Vienna and the MoMA Design Store in New York. A smaller
quartz version is also available, in unlimited production. The cube clock is also the inspiration behind the Time for Vienna design range. Items in the collection include espresso cups
by Augarten Porzellan, water tumblers from Lobmeyr and tea from Demmer.
Vienna Journal 2017 —
Icons of their age
VIENNA PAVILION URINAL
In the middle of the nineteenth century the general public had different pressing needs – with
calls mounting for public urinals in busy squares and parks. To keep water consumption in
check and cut unpleasant smells, Viennese engineer Wilhelm Beetz came up with an oil-based
disinfection system. His patented system won international awards and went on to conquer
markets throughout Europe and even as far away as South Africa. Every now and again there
are reminders of the breakthrough in Vienna thanks to the original signs announcing the patent water and odor free technology in public WCs dotted around the city.
Beetz’s company was also commissioned with constructing public urinals, whose walls
were made from painted iron. In Vienna, the most common variety was the eight-sided
“Viennese Urinal Pavilion”, as it was called in specialized literature.
By 1910 the city had 137 urinals and 73 toilet blocks, the most famous of which are the
facilities on Graben. Also constructed by Beetz, they were the city’s first ever subterranean
public conveniences. Now a listed monument, they are the last surviving art nouveau public
restrooms left in Vienna.
T E X T: A N D R E A KO ST N E R
VIENNA
Historic WC in Türkenschanzpark
Light artist Brigitte Kowanz has also taken inspiration from the cube clock.
T E X T: R O B
ERT SEYDE
L
Icons of their age
Iconic design object. Vienna’s cube clocks have an eventful past. Clocking up
more than 100 years, they are a true Viennese icon.
T E X T: S U SA N N E K A P E L L E R
1 The Opera Ball has a strict dress code. Men are required
to wear tailcoats with white bow ties – if they don’t comply,
they simply won’t be allowed in! Wristwatches should be left
at home since pocket watches are de rigueur at this high society ball.
Are balls only about dancing? What about
food and drink? We follow two couples
at Vienna’s world-famous Opera Ball and
take a look behind the scenes. The Vienna
State Opera house is transformed into a
glittering ballroom for the best-known of
the 450 ball events hosted in the Austrian
capital each year.
4 Those lucky enough to snap up a box seat are in for a treat.
These coveted spots are perfect for watching the grand opening
ceremony and the hubbub on the dance floor, champagne in hand.
VIENNA
3 Preened to perfection, it is time to make a grand entrance at the opera house. The arrival of guests on the red carpet
leading to Grand Staircase is a spectacle for all to see. Everyone who is anyone reaches the ballroom via this route, to a
flurry of camera flashes. The ball gowns steal the limelight.
2 Preparations take slightly longer for the ladies. The Opera Ball
dress code calls for floor-length gowns and a formal up-do for ladies
with long hair. And then there’s the perfect make-up to think about.
Vienna Journal 2017
—
Backstage at the Opera Ball
12
13
6 When they are not on the dance floor, on the day of the ball guests are free to stroll
around the Vienna State Opera and access all areas, from the cellar to the attic. The
numerous bars, lounges and buffets – including a champagne and oyster bar – as well
as the Heuriger wine tavern and a casino are always popular.
Vienna Journal 2017
—
Backstage at the Opera Ball
5 The words Alles Walzer ring out, declaring the floor open to all comers. Dancing the waltz at least once is an absolute must. At midnight there is a
high-spirited public quadrille with easy-to-follow instructions from the master of ceremonies. That said, it often ends in complete chaos!
7 The Opera Ball has something for just about
every dance style: at the disco ballgoers pack the
dance floor and groove to the latest DJ sounds. A
total of 120 musicians provide the musical backdrop for the event.
VIENNA PHILHARMONIC BALL
January 19, 2017 at the Musikverein
COFFEEHOUSE OWNERS‘ BALL
February 17, 2017 at the Hofburg
OPERA BALL
February 23, 2017 at the
Vienna State Opera
LIFE BALL
June 10, 2017 at the City Hall
FÊTE IMPÉRIALE
June 23, 2017 at the Spanish Riding School
VIENNA
HOFBURG SILVESTERBALL
December 31, 2016 at the Hofburg
9 After the last quadrille at 4am, the bands play a last round of slow foxtrots and
dreamy waltzes: after all, the guests are getting tired now!
10 With aching feet starting to make themselves felt, the night
slowly draws to a close. The Opera Ball officially ends at 5am. As
a special reward, guests who have made it this far are free to take
some of the floral decorations home with them as a keepsake.
HIGHLIGHTS OF THE BALL SEASON
8 Keeping hunger at bay. The
Opera Ball even has its very
own sausage stand. Despite the
glamor of the occasion, people are
welcome to eat this classic snack
with their fingers.
Vienna Journal 2017
—
T E X T: A N G E L I K A ÖT T L
Green Vienna/All creatures great and small
14
Vienna’s Central Cemetery is home to foxes,
hamsters and squirrels, in addition to deer.
VIENNA
The colony close to the busy Floridsdorf motorway bridge contains
around 30 grey heron nests.
In Vienna wild animals are not just found in zoos.
Deer, rabbits and other shy creatures are often waiting in the wings, as a safari through the city reveals.
Suddenly there is a ripple on the surface of an otherwise placid branch of the Danube, just a
few steps from the U2 subway bridge. A few seconds later, the head of a curious beaver breaks
through to the surface to inspect its surroundings: a quick glance to check whether his mate
and kids can follow in safety. With his family in tow, the expert dam builder is off on another nocturnal adventure.
There are around 250 European beavers in Vienna. “They live in lodges, which to the untrained eye look like random piles of branches and leaves,” explains Georg Popp, an experienced
Viennese nature photographer, who is behind the Viennese Wilderness project with his wife
Verena. Together they want their photographs and films to raise awareness of the city’s rich flora
and fauna. We witnessed their passion for the subject matter first hand, as we lay in wait hoping
to catch sight of various animals in an urban photo safari.
FROM THE WATER TO THE SKIES
Beavers aren’t the only animals to live their lives in and around the water. Vienna’s underwater
world is home to some surprising species. Photographers can expect to find crayfish and
yellow-bellied slider turtles in addition to fish. “But it’s not just the animals in the water that capture the imagination. Photos taken from the water show the city from an impressive angle,” the
photographer explained hours earlier while we were watching a colony of gray herons at the
water park in Floridsdorf. “Gray herons even nest in urban environments. It’s relatively easy to get
good photos of them building nests, defending their territory and feeding their young,” Georg
Popp confirms.
Visit
TIP
www.wienerwildnis.at
for some impressive
wildlife shots.
15
GROUND SQUIRRELS AND DANDELIONS
River of life
overflowing with fun
RUNNING FOR SOME 2,850 KILOMETERS, THE DANUBE IS EUROPE’S
SECOND LONGEST RIVER. IT FLOWS THROUGH 10 COUNTRIES, MORE THAN ANY
OTHER RIVER ON EARTH. FOR ALMOST 25 KILOMETERS, THE ROUTE LEADS THROUGH
VIENNA, ENRICHING THE CITY AS IT GOES – THE VIENNA JOURNAL TOOK
A JOURNEY ALONG THE COURSE OF THE RIVER IN THE CAPITAL.
The range of leisure activities on offer is huge.
At KUCHELAU MARINA in the north, speedboats await thrill-seeking passengers. Highlights on the helter-skelter trip include break
stops which see the bow of the boat completely submerged, and 180 to 270 degree
turns. Wakeboarders, wakesurfers and water skiers are also a familiar sight out on the
water here.
Farther downstream is ALTE DONAU
(Old Danube), which used to be the main
branch of the river back in the eighteenth
century. After the course of the river was regulated in 1875, the main arm was designated
the old river, hence the name. Today around
500 row boats, pedalos and electric cruisers
await visitors. Sailors, swimmers and sun worshippers will also be in their element at the
riverside public lidos. Anyone who prefers a
less sedate approach should make a beeline
for the STAND UP PADDLING CENTER WIEN
at the eastern edge of the legendary GÄNSEHÄUFEL bathing area, where they can explore
the water from a whole new perspective.
A walk to the southern tip of the Alte
Donau and across to the banks of the
Neue Donau leads to two fantastic locations
that no-one should miss out on. Whether it’s
a sun-drenched game of beach volleyball or
sipping chilled cocktails on a deckchair on a
sandy beach: VIENNA CITY BEACH CLUB has
it all. The party crowd gather here to dance
until the early hours. A short walk away, watersports fans will be greeted by the sight of
people pulled over the water surface of the
water and executing impressive jumps – a
feat made possible by Vienna’s very own
WAKEBOARD LIFT – a major hit, especially
among young people. The complex, which
includes the WAKE_UP restaurant, is a real
waterside oasis and easy to reach by public transport (U2 station Donaustadtbrücke).
MARINA WIEN, the city’s state-of-theart yachting and sports boat harbor can be
found on the opposite side of the river to
Handelskai. Attractions include the MARINA
RESTAURANT and the SPIDER ROCK LEISURE
PARK. Packing up to 900 horsepower, the
Navy Seals boats fly across the water at
speeds of 120 km/h for a serious adrenaline
kick. At the adventure playground, visitors of
all ages can soar through the air, high over
the city: the 380 meter-long flying fox course
reaches heights of 40 meters above the surface of the water.
The last stop on the adventure tour takes
in the WILD WATER RAPIDS at STEINSPORNBRÜCKE. Austria’s first man-made rapids conform to international competition standards.
Amateurs can also try their hand at rafting,
canoeing and paddling their way through the
maelstrom.
Vienna Journal 2017 —
CENTRAL (ANIMAL) CEMETERY
Equally shy, deer bolt at the sight of a human. However, considerable numbers of them live
on the outskirts of Vienna in one of the largest cemeteries in Europe – “Long Live the Central
Cemetery” as the famous song by Austropop legend Wolfgang Ambros goes! The Jewish part
of the Central Cemetery conjures up a particularly romantic scene with its tapered ivy-covered
headstones. And any intrepid photographer lucky enough to find dark brown doe eyes staring
back at them from between the graves will be in seventh heaven – even if the animal scampers off before the image can be brought into focus.
It’s definitely worth going on a safari through the Viennese urban jungle. Besides a healthy
dose of patience, budding photographers will need to keep their wits about them – and with
any luck the beavers and ground squirrels will play along.
Green Vienna/ River of life overflowing with fun
Budding nature photographers need to keep a steady nerve –
swans in particular can get dangerously close.
It takes a bit of creativity to catch one of Vienna’s approximately 8,500 ground squirrels on
camera. Georg Popp has a trick or two up his sleeve: “Ground squirrels really don’t like tall
plants. Place a dandelion or blade of grass in front of their burrow and it won’t be long before
they come out to cut the offending item down to size.” These cute little rodents have made
themselves right at home at the Hirschstetten plant nurseries. And it’s not just photographers
that go weak at the knees when a whole family of ground squirrels puts in a surprise appearance, darting between visitors and park benches.
Wild rabbits are every bit as cute. A sizeable colony has taken up residence on the banks
of the Danube by the busy railway line at Handelskai. But here too patience is a virtue, as they
are easily spooked.
Extending for around eight kilometers, the Alte Donau recreation area is just a few stops from Stephansplatz
by subway. (top) Sundowner-Cocktail at Vienna City Beach Club (below)
Vienna is set to become the world capital of
beach volleyball when the FIVB sets up its nets
on a purpose-built site on the Danube Island for
the Volleyball World Championship from July 28 –
August 6 2017. Center Court can accommodate up
to 10,000 spectators. Anyone not lucky enough
to get a seat in the stadium can follow the action
live in the neighboring fan zone. More informabeachvolleyball2017.vienna.info
tion:
VIENNA
EVENT
VOLLEYBALL WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP
With her best friends in tow, Tamara Mascara showed us “her” Vienna on an unforgettable night out…
It is impossible not to stop and stare when
Tamara Mascara and her friends hit the town.
Their glittering outfits, flawless make-up and
legs that go on forever never fail to attract
admiring glances.
Tamara Mascara is a make-up artist, designer, Burlesque artist,
drag queen and DJ. The outlandish party girl is the perfect guide
for clubbers – she knows everything there is to know about the
capital’s party scene.
Tamara’s night out starts in the afternoon at the make-up
table – surrounded by friends and lashings of prosecco. We never
do discover how long Tamara’s male alter ego takes to make the
transformation into a stunning drag queen. Our attempt to find
out is batted away with a smile: “It’s not the done thing to ask, and
we don’t tell.” Over dinner at the top of the DONAUTURM tower,
Tamara reveals that many nights out start in her apartment: “My
place is a kind of House of Shame – my friends come to mine to
get ready and have a couple of drinks, and those walls have witnessed lots of funny things over the years.” The 360° panoramic
restaurant of the Donauturm gently revolves 170 meters above
the ground. Tamara loves the amazing views. Other favorite destinations ahead of a night on the town include LABSTELLE WIEN
and MOTTO AM FLUSS on Schwedenplatz.
Next stop: PALM HOUSE in the BURGGARTEN. According
to Tamara, the Art Nouveau imperial greenhouse is still a great
place to enjoy a couple of cocktails before hitting the dancefloor. “I like all the exotic plants and the atmosphere. Although
the Palm House screams imperial charm, it is still a great contemporary night spot,” she enthusiastically confirms between sips of
her Moscow Mule at the bar. Asked about where else she likes
to hang out, Tamara reveals: “1010 BAR in the first district – I go
there a lot with my friends. I really like the waiters, the cocktails
are good and the interior is great. I’ve also got a soft spot for
the BONBONNIERE PIANOBAR – it’s like taking a journey back
in time to the 1930s.”
Left: Tamara loves her work as a DJ. Right: Tamara on her way to the Säulenhalle
VIENNA
Vienna Journal 2017
—
Nightlife/Night shift with Tamara Mascara
16
A night on the town without selfies? Unthinkable – Tamara loves to present her outfits and all the
latest styles on Instagram www.instagram.com/tamaramascaravienna and other social media sites.
Viennese coffeehouse
reloaded
Supersense in the Dogenhof
VIENNESE COFFEEHOUSES – A SLICE OF VIENNESE TRADITION AND AN
INSTITUTION – HAVE ALWAYS BEEN THE PERFECT PLACES TO SIT AND
WATCH THE WORLD GO BY FOR HOURS ON END. BUT COFFEEHOUSE
CULTURE IS EXPERIENCING SOMETHING OF A RENAISSANCE. IN ADDITION
TO THE TRADITIONAL KAFFEEHAUS, THE CITY IS ALSO HOME TO NUMEROUS
CONTEMPORARY CAFÉS THAT CELEBRATE THE FINE ART OF COFFEE MAKING.
The classic Viennese coffeehouse, part of life
in the capital since the nineteenth century,
has seen a new trend take hold in the city
in recent years. Known as third wave coffee
culture, this movement puts a strong focus
on the origin of the beans, storage, roasting and preparation methods. Devotees are
treated to perfect cappuccinos, espressos
and a wealth of other creations in primarily
modern settings.
The best coffee in the first district can
be found at CAFFÈCOUTURE in Palais Ferstel.
Award-winning barista Georg Branny even
roasts his own beans in the ninth district, at
CaffèCouture’s second branch. Depending on
customer preferences, the coffee is brewed
using various machines and methods including cold brew.
Praterstrasse in the second district,
where Tyrolean restaurateur Otto Bayer
opened KAFFEEBAR BALTHASAR, is a hot tip
for coffee lovers. This cozy café harmonizes
perfectly with the fantastic coffee which is
lovingly prepared in a majestic Marzocco espresso machine. A few blocks further on is the
next gem – SUPERSENSE in the Dogenhof:
the facade with its Lion of St. Mark has echoes
of Venice and whets the appetite for a fantastic cup of coffee.
Tobias Radinger’s KAFFEEFABRIK on
Favoritenstrasse in the fourth district serves
coffee from its own roastery in a low-key interior. The beans are sourced directly from
growers. KAFFEMIK – a project set up by a
handful of IT experts in the hip seventh district – follows a similarly inspired agenda.
Every month this purist café serves coffees
from a changing line up of guest roasteries.
WIENER RÖSTHAUS in the eighth district has a completely different aesthetic.
Steeped in the charm of a colonial-era general store, the fantastic coffee is roasted on site.
The company’s second café is in the Prater
park. CAFÉ JONAS REINDL on Schottentor
sells coffee from pre-eminent Viennese roastery Süssmund. Here too all eyes are on preparation – and design.
There is virtually no end to the variety of coffee drinking experiences on offer in
Vienna – and with more than 1,000 cafés and
espresso bars to choose from it could take a
lifetime to sample all the options!
Nightlife/Viennese coffeehouse reloaded
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Kaffeebar Balthasar on Praterstrasse in the second district
T: A
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Vienna Journal 2017
TEX
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VIENNA
Tamara über den Donauturm: „Ich finde diese Location wirklich hysterisch! Der Ausblick auf die Stadt ist einfach atemberaubend.“
Powder brushes and lipstick appear out of nowhere – a sure sign that the highlight of the
evening is just around the corner. And we’re off to dance and have fun at IMPERIAL MADNESS
in the VOLKSGARTEN SÄULENHALLE, one of Tamara’s all-time favorite venues. Thanks to the
Burlesque performances and dancing, this party night is a firm favorite on the capital’s queer
scene, even if it only comes round four times a year. It doesn’t take Tamara long to get on the
dancefloor among the other revelers, before sashaying behind the decks for her own DJ set.
Tamara Mascara can be found mostly at gay and Burlesque events, where she is often
booked as a DJ. One of Tamara’s favorite nights is THE CIRCUS at ARENA WIEN. The event,
which she co-organizes, has an excellent reputation and a loyal international following. Tamara rates the Arena very highly as a concert venue and can often be found partying until
the lights come up.
But we never do discover what happens at the very end of a party night – drag queens
are famously reluctant to have their picture taken in the small hours.
Vienna Journal 2017
Split into four 25-strong choirs, the singers in the Vienna Boys’ Choir are aged from nine to 14.
They live, study and sing in the one-time imperial palace in the Augarten.
—
Family/Music for all the family
18
Children love music and in Vienna there’s
always music in the air. Magic flutes, concerts, the Mozarthaus Vienna, the House of
Music and much more besides – there’s an
incredible range of family-friendly options to
choose from. Children and teenagers will instantly feel at home in the city of music.
T E X T: S U SA N N A B U R G E R
No other city on earth offers such a rich variety of music-related attractions for younger
generations. Music education is part of the
capital’s DNA and transforms the youngest
fans into lifelong music lovers. Projects at the
Musikverein and Wiener Konzerthaus aimed
at children, teenagers and families reach out
to around 60,000 visitors each season. And
it’s not just a question of listening in silence:
Audience members are actively encouraged
to join in, sing along, try out the instruments,
feel the music, ask questions, experiment
with sounds of their own and give their own
creativity free rein.
OPERA FOR KIDS
VIENNA
On February 24, 2017 the magic and music of Mozart’s The Magic Flute will cast a spell on 7,000 children at the
Vienna State Opera (l.). Follow in the footsteps of the musical genius at the Mozarthaus Vienna (r.).
The Vienna State Opera likes to take younger audience under its wing at various venues,
including its studio in nearby Walfischgasse.
Kids’ operas Patchwork (premiere on January 27) and Pünktchen und Anton are the program highlights for 2017. Each year the Vienna
State Opera hosts a very special event: on
the day after the Opera Ball, the giant parquet dance floor is opened up to 7,000 children for two child-friendly adaptations of
Mozart’s The Magic Flute. Soloists from the
Vienna State Opera and the Vienna Philharmonic – the opera house’s genuine stars –
perform for the youngsters.
The Magic Flute is also one of the
program highlights at the prize-winning
Marionette Theater at Schönbrunn Palace –
a shorter version for very small children is
performed, as well as an extended production for opera buffs aged six to 99.
Opera, operettas, ballets and musicals
all feature in the Volksoper’s program – including My Fair Lady. A series of hands-on
workshops gives children the chance to immerse themselves in the world of musical
theater, while artists shed light on life backstage and in the orchestra pit.
WORLD’S OLDEST BOY BAND
At the grand old age of 500, the Vienna Boys’
Choir is the oldest boy band in the world.
MuTh, their concert hall in the Augarten, is
firmly established on the capital’s cultural
scene, and is the place to go to hear their
latest performances, which cover everything
from world music to children’s opera. The talented young singers have their own school,
and sometimes travel to other schools to perform in front of their peers. After a concert
at MuTh, families with small children should
head outside for a walk through the Augarten
park. The hour-long pushchair-friendly route
is always a popular option. Playgrounds and
a family swimming pool provide ample opportunity for the little ones to let off steam,
and fine food is the order of the day in the
laid back garden of the Bunkerei restaurant.
IMMERSED IN MUSIC
A trip to the House of Music is an experience
for all the family. Giant instruments, computers and state-of-the-art technology are just
some of the ways that visitors can experience music. Visitors can also try their hand
at conducting the Vienna Philharmonic, find
out more about the great composers, have a
go at banging the timpani or discover what a
baby can hear from the safety of its mother’s
womb.
The Mozarthaus Vienna is another hot
tip for visitors of all ages. Exhibits are centered around the historic Mozart apartment
on the first floor, which with four main and
two smaller rooms and a kitchen provided a
slice of luxury for Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart
and his family between 1784 and 1787. A social animal, he threw some wild parties in the
apartment – the walls of the games room witnessed countless games of cards, billiard
matches and sometimes frivolous musical
performances.
19
Israeli soprano Hila Fahima – who can also be seen at the
Vienna State Opera in various roles including Zerbinetta
(Ariadne auf Naxos), Fiakermilli (Arabella), Gilda (Rigoletto)
and Sophie (Werther) – shares her thoughts on what it is
like to play the Queen of the Night in The Magic Flute for
Children: “As a singer I love performing for children – they
express their feelings very clearly. If they like the character
I am playing then it’s obvious straight away! Children follow
the action on stage with baited breath. Mozart would have
approved!”
Voyage of discovery
through the old town
TIP FOR ANIMAL LOVERS
In 2017 SCHÖNBRUNN ZOO opens its new giraffe
park, which is three times the size of the old
enclosure. The world’s oldest zoo is home to
more than 700 different species. There is also
a nature trail with climbing wall, a treetop trail
and several playgrounds. The palace next door
is home to the Schloss Schönbrunn Experience
children’s museum.
ONE SIGHTSEEING FAMILY TOUR OF VIENNA STARTS AT ST. STEPHEN’S CATHEDRAL
AND ENDS UP AT THE MUSEUMSQUARTIER, TAKING IN THE PUMMERIN BELL, AN
EMPRESS, SOME BUTTERFLIES AND DINOSAURS ALONG THE WAY.
ST. STEPHEN’S CATHEDRAL
This Gothic cathedral, affectionately known
as Steffl to locals, is probably Vienna’s bestknown landmark. The lift in the north tower
leads directly to the Pummerin, which is
the nation’s largest bell. Visitors who don’t
mind burning some calories can climb the
343 steps to the Türmerstube (tower room) to
enjoy unique views of Vienna and take a closer
look at some of the cathedral’s 230,000 roof
tiles. Those who aren’t easily spooked will enjoy a visit to the catacombs.
HOFBURG
In the imperial apartments, visitors of all ages
can find out more about the everyday lives
of the imperial family, Sisi’s hobbies and her
beauty secrets. Children’s tours end with an
imperial dressing-up session.
BUTTERFLY HOUSE
The Palm House in the Burggarten is one of
the most striking Art Nouveau greenhouses
anywhere in the world. Hundreds of butterflies roam free in a mini-tropical rain forest
with a waterfall, ponds and bridges. TIP: enjoy
a picnic in the neighboring Burggarten – accompanied by Mozart, immortalized in stone.
KUNSTHISTORISCHES MUSEUM AND
NATURHISTORISCHES MUSEUM
Heading away from the first district, the tour
leads to the Kunsthistorisches which contains
the Habsburg’s collections: mummies, mythical
ancient beasts and a whole gallery of paintings.
The Naturhistorisches Museum opposite is always a hit with children. It contains a head-spinning variety of creatures – from dinosaurs to
microorganisms – and prehistoric discoveries.
MUSEUMSQUARTIER
At the 1,600-square-meter ZOOM Children’s
Museum children are free to explore, research
and play to their heart’s desire. The little ones
can play in the Ozean, while older children enjoy the hands-on exhibitions or head for the
animation studio. Dschungel Wien is a kids’
theater. Two museums offer workshops and
tours for children: mumok with a focus on
contemporary art, and the Leopold Museum
which is all about Art Nouveau, Wiener Werkstätte and expressionism.
In the Naturhistorisches Museum a six-meter-long moving model of an
allosaurus dominates the dinosaur room.
Family/Voyage of discovery through the old town/Fun whatever the weather
HILA FAHIMA AS THE QUEEN OF THE NIGHT
IN THE MAGIC FLUTE FOR CHILDREN
Vienna Journal 2017 —
EVENT
Children are whisked away on an interactive voyage of discovery
at the House of Music virtuoso stage.
Fun whatever the weather
During the summer children and adults flock to Vienna’s Prater, a high-octane amusement park
with more than 250 attractions. The Black Mamba takes riders to a different plane, while the
Ghost Train is just the ticket for thrill seekers. 75 celebrity waxworks await visitors at Madame
Tussauds, including Austrian soccer star David Alaba. The Giant Ferris Wheel turns at a leisurely 2.7 km/h. Just behind it, the fields of the “Green Prater” are ideal for blowing off steam.
Snow and a little bit of cold air are the perfect conditions for Vienna’s Christmas markets,
including one in front of the Belvedere palace. Young visitor’s faces just light up at the sight of
all the confectionery and handcrafted wares. At the end of January Rathausplatz is transformed
into an 8,000-square-meter ice rink – including the dreamy winter trail – for Vienna Ice World.
And if it rains, a few hours at the House of the Sea is a great option. Time Travel Vienna
takes visitors on a high-tech journey back in time through 2,000 years of Viennese history.
And at Therme Wien – Europe’s largest city spa – it doesn’t matter what the weather is doing outside.
A horse-drawn carriage sightseeing tour of Vienna is an unforgettable experience. (l.) Vienna’s Christmas
markets are truly magical places that appeal to children of all ages. Many have family-friendly attractions
such as carousels, trackless trains and craft workshops. (r.)
VIENNA
IN SUMMER AND WINTER, WHETHER THE SUN IS SHINING OR THE SNOW IS FALLING,
VIENNA HAS SOMETHING FOR FAMILIES TO DO 365 DAYS OF THE YEAR.
Vienna Journal 2017
—
Drinking culture/Enjoyment with style
Josef Hoffmann, cups, 1922 and 1923, hand-blown into shape by
Böhmische Manufaktur for Wiener Werkstätte
20
T E X T: E L I SA B E T H F R E U N D L I N G E R
Viennese wine comes in seemingly endless variations. Countless awards and the traditional Heuriger
wine taverns in the city have elevated the capital’s
favorite tipple to cultural heritage status – but what
would wine be without the right presentation?
VIENNA
Josef Hoffmann, portrait, 1903
Glass service for Archduke Rudolf, J. & L. Lobmeyr, ca. 1860
A wine bottle is much more than just a container – it is a work
of art that creates a sense of anticipation and enjoyment before the seal is even broken. And the label is more than a mere
identifier: it is a promise.
The artwork on Weingut Lenikus’s lovingly crafted
labels pay tribute to the erstwhile inhabitants of the vineyard-covered hills. Primeval animals lived here when the
Viennese basin was still a sea, and now shape the soil and
the character of the wine.
Meanwhile at Weingut Cobenzl, the labels reflect enduring customs. The perfect accompaniment to Viennese
cuisine, these classic wines are adorned with images of the
city’s best-known sights. In recent years, grapes have made a
stunning return to the historic Liebenpfennig vineyard in the
grounds of Schönbrunn Palace. The results speak for themselves and the Liesenpfennig labels strike a noble tone thanks
to Maria Theresa’s portrait.
Made from pinot noir grapes, the elegant Mayer am Pfarrplatz rosé playfully references Schnitzler’s sweet girl from
the suburbs. A complete work of art which starts with the
salmon pink hue of the wine, continues on the whimsical label, and ends with a taste sensation. And the name: Fräulein
Rosé von Dobling.
Jutta Ambrositsch, a newcomer to the industry, labels her
products with a healthy dose of individuality, dedication and
Viennese humor. Originally a graphic artist by trade she has
come up with the simplest of names for her whites: “A Liter
of Vienna” – what more could be said than that!
WINE GLASSES – PRECIOUS ACCOUTREMENTS
In days gone by down-to-earth folk would raise a toast with simple beakers, while the Imperial Family supped their wine from hand blown goblets. Vienna has a long tradition of quality
glassmaking, and the precious glasses once used by the ruling Habsburgs are still brought
out for special receptions hosted by the Federal President.
Tableware had a special place in the hearts of the Wiener Werkstätte’s art nouveau designers, chief among them Josef Hoffmann. Working with leading exponents of early modernism, traditional glassmakers Lobmeyr produced numerous sets of glasses which are still
manufactured and available to buy today.
An all-time classic: the
Fasslbecher glass
21
A GLASS FOR POSTERITY
The Heuriger wine tavern on the Nussberg hill offers fantastic views of the city and its environs.
LOTS OF ROUTES LEAD TO WINE IN VIENNA.
THE BEST OF THESE TAKE IN THE CITY’S LANDMARK HILLS AND ARE NOT JUST FOR HIKERS.
TICKET TO RIDE AND SENSIBLE FOOTWEAR RECOMMENDED.
The terrace in front of the church on the LEOPOLDSBERG
hill (425 m) is a well-kept secret. On clear days, the spectacular views stretch far beyond the Austrian capital and as far
as Bratislava, some 55 km away. Closer at hand, the Danube
cuts through a sea of buildings in the basin below. Framed by
the hills marking the fringes of the Vienna Woods, highlights
include familiar landmarks such as St. Stephen’s Cathedral
and Dominique Perrault’s DC Tower, the Giant Ferris Wheel
and the Millennium Tower.
Like its neighbors, this “peak” can be reached aboard the
38A bus. A level, asphalt footpath leads through the woods
to Kahlenberg, along the historic Höhenstrasse route – which
still exudes 1930s charm to this day. Hikers and mountain bikers are a familiar sight in these parts, as some of the capital’s
most attractive footpaths and biking trails intersect here. The
nearby Elisabethwiese meadow is great for picnics, while the
Josefinenhütte restaurant is a monument to rustic retro charm.
From here it’s only a short hop to the treetop rope garden
with hair-raising routes up to 20 meters above the ground.
A SPRITZER WITH A VIEW
Just a few meters farther on is the popular KAHLENBERG plateau (484 m): especially impressive at night, the panoramic
views live long in the memory. A restaurant and café – and a
hotel, for that matter – set the scene for a comfortable conclusion to any mission to Vienna’s best-loved viewpoint.
Wine is never far away. Past the overgrown headstones
in the derelict Josefsfriedhof cemetery, the “Eiserne Hand”
(Iron Hand) trail leads to a group of Heuriger wine taverns
with the best views in town: Sirbu, Hirt am Kahlenberg, Mayer
and Wieninger am Nussberg – all surrounded by vineyards.
For those who don’t want to stop off for a white wine spritzer,
the walk continues into winegrowing communities on the
Danube – the eminently charming KAHLENBERGERDORF and
on to NUSSDORF.
EFFORTLESS ENJOYMENT
COBENZL (492 m) has a lot in common with its neighbor
Kahlenberg: arresting panoramas, ease of access by public
transportation, and great food and drink make it a popular
destination for visitors. There’s something for everyone here.
Families head for the wild boar park, the forest playground or
the children’s farm, while fans of the finer things in life make a
beeline for the Cobenzl wine estate, one of the two restaurants,
or the Oktogon café with its Celtic-inspired tree of life circle.
Some people take the bus up and walk back down to the
picturesque village of GRINZING through the rambling vineyards, where ancient horse-chestnut trees, beautiful Biedermaier era villas and Vienna’s top wine taverns await – from
A for Alter Bach-Hengl to Z for Zawodsky. Anyone willing to
take on a slightly longer route can head from Cobenzl to HERMANNSKOGEL (542 m), the highest of the city’s landmark
hills. Though the final climb might leave casual walkers out
of breath, it’s worth the effort – fantastic views from the top
of the Habsburgwarte tower (opened in 1889) and first-class
Heuriger in the nearby winegrowing areas of SALMANNSDORF, SIEVERING and NEUSTIFT are among the highlights.
BISAMBERG (358 m) in the north of the city offers great
views and good food and drink without the strenuous climbs. A
walk up the beautiful old cobbled STAMMERSDORF Kellergasse
lane – flanked by wine cellars on both sides – soon leads into
the leafy vineyards. Growers such as Göbel and Weinhandwerk
serve Gemischter Satz blended wines – outdoors, with fantastic views of Vienna and the surrounding area.
—
Vineyards and vistas
Vienna Journal 2017
TIP
Summer Stage near Rossauer Lände is an unmissable
highlight for balmy summer nights. In July it hosts
a wine and culture festival. Visitors can sample top
wines from numerous Viennese winegrowers and
savor Vienna-inspired menus from leading chefs
before enjoying readings and live music.
VIENNA
T E X T: PAU L DA N I E L
Viennese wine/Vineyards and vistas
Lobmeyr, a former purveyor to the imperial court, not only supplies blue-blooded households
and the nobility – television royalty Peter Falk (aka Columbo) once dropped in to pick up a
souvenir for his wife. Respected designers such as Stefan Sagmeister, Helmut Lang and Ted
Muehling continue to collaborate with the capital’s glassmakers to this day. The set brought
out by design duo Polka is almost too nice to give as a gift.
The once humble wine tavern beaker now has a cult following. Design label Das Goldene
Wiener Herz has made a name for itself with its modern interpretation of a true classic and
put its own mark on the traditional Heuriger glass. Finished with real gold, these glasses are
highly original and precious souvenirs.
22
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Vienna Card
Vienna Card holders are entitled to 24, 48 or 72 hours of
unlimited free travel on the entire public transport network
as well as discounts from more than 210 partners including
museums, theaters, shops, cafés and Heuriger wine taverns.
Children and teenagers aged 14 or under travel free when
accompanied by a Vienna Card holder. Available from the
tourist information offices, your hotel in Vienna, Wiener
Linien (Vienna Transport Authority) ticket offices and online
www.wienkarte.at
at
Vienna Journal 2017
—
Find out more about Vienna
Vienna Card app
From 2017 English and German Vienna Card apps will be
available from iTunes and the Play Store. Once the app has
been installed on the user’s device, they can access all of
the digital information and content in the coupon booklet
even offline.
For your trip to Vienna
VIENNA HOTELS & INFO
Monday-Saturday 09:00-19:00
Tel: +43-1-24 555, Fax:+43-1-24 555 666
E-mail: [email protected]
Hotel reservations and information
TOURIST INFO VIENNA CITY CENTER
Corner of Albertinaplatz and Maysedergasse
09:00-19:00 daily
Information, hotel reservations, Vienna Card, brochures, city tours, ticket service,
free WiFi and last minute tickets for selected venues
TOURIST INFO VIENNA MAIN STATION
At the Austrian National Railways (ÖBB) Info Point
09:00-19:00 daily
Information, hotel reservations, Vienna Card, brochures
TOURIST INFO VIENNA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT
In the arrivals hall, Level 0
07:00-22:00 daily
Information, hotel reservations, Vienna Card, brochures
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Vienna on the internet and newsletter
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need to plan a trip to Vienna and your time in the city – available in 13 languages.
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Film maker Paul Wenninger shooting
his short film.
SHORT FILMS ON VIENNA
VIENNA
In 2016 the VIS Vienna Independent Shorts festival
and Vienna Shorts Agency initiated a short film
competition entitled “The Rhythm of Vienna”. The
three winning films are on the official competition
shortfilm.vienna.info.
website
T E X T: M A RT I N A P O L Z E R
23
In April the capital’s EASTER MARKETS are laden
with traditional decorations and beautifully
painted Easter eggs. Attractions include
excellent food and music as well as children’s
entertainment.
A hotheaded Catholic priest and a communist mayor
will take to the stage for DON CAMILLO & PEPPONE
which will make its debut at the Ronacher musical
theatre at the end of January (English supertitles).
In late June the DANUBE ISLAND FESTIVAL
will serve up three full days of music and fun.
1,500 artists will get the free festival rocking
with a huge range of genres for the three million
visitors to enjoy.
Vienna Journal 2017
—
The VIENNA CITY MARATHON on April 23
takes in most of the capital’s best-loved
sights. Around a million spectators line
the route to cheer on the 42,000 pros and
amateurs that take part each year.
Highlights 2017
Rare examples of medieval sacramental art and
exhibits from Imperial Vienna will go on display at
the newly renovated DOM MUSEUM WIEN from
spring 2017. Key early modernist and avant-garde
works will set up a dialog with them.
Contemporary dance takes over the city for four
weeks in July and August at the IMPULSTANZ
festival where top international dancers strut their
stuff. Around 250 workshops give everyone the
chance to join in.
The WELTMUSEUM WIEN, one of the
world’s top museums of ethnology, will
reopen in 2017. Montezuma’s world-famous
featherwork crown and exhibits relating to
British mariner James Cook are among the
pieces on show.
VIENNA 2018: BEAUTY AND THE ABYSS.
KLIMT.SCHIELE.WAGNER.MOSER.
To mark the 100th anniversary of the deaths
of Gustav Klimt, Egon Schiele, Otto Wagner
and Koloman Moser, activities in the city
will be inspired by Viennese Modernism in
2018 as the capital pays tribute to four of its
most influential fin de siècle figures. More
than 20 related exhibitions during the year
will not only honor the big four, focusing on
the countless other protagonists from this
important period for art and culture as well:
from Sigmund Freud, Arnold Schönberg
and Josef Hoffmann to Adolf Loos, Berta
Zuckerkandl and Ludwig Wittgenstein.
www.wienermoderne2018.info
In fall, design aficionados will descend on the
Austrian capital for VIENNA DESIGN WEEK. The
festival provides countless ways – including
events, exhibitions and tours – to delve into the
world of design.
T E X T: A N D R E A KO ST N E R
VIENNA
From September 21 to October 8, the WIENER
WIESN-FEST will play out in the shadow of the
Giant Ferris Wheel. Full of traditional Austrian
dress and music, it offers no end of fun – including
the Rosa Wiesn-Fest for the gay and lesbian
community.
Photo VBW © Rafaela Pröll 2016
A new musical
Music and Lyrics
Book
STEPHEN SCHWARTZ
CHRISTIAN STRUPPECK
Director
TREVOR NUNN
wo r l d p r e m i e r e S e p t e m b e r 2 0 1 6
A legendary Viennese Theater Director and Entertainer
Immerse yourself in the theatre world of the 18th century and experience a musical about one of the most fascinating
theatrical couples of the era: Emanuel & Eleonore Schikaneder. Emanuel Schikaneder is a legend in Viennese theatre
even today and is considered the 18th century’s most important impresario and theatre-maker. Without his turbulent
love story with Eleonore, one of opera’s greatest works – „The Magic Flute“ – would never have been written.
SC HI KA NEDE R. MU SI CALVIENNA . AT