complex weaves
simple beauty
C o n s t r u c t i o n L i brary
complex weaves
simple beauty
BAMBOO
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Bamboo fiber has a vast history of use in
the regions of China and Southeast Asia.
Archaeologists have unearthed bamboo-weaving
relics that are over 5,000 years old at the ruins
of Banpo village in Xian, the Shanxi province
of the ancient Jin Dynasty.
Commonly eaten
throughout much of China, the bamboo stalk is
the fastest growing plant on Earth. The tallest
species can grow over 16” a day, which can yield
over nine feet of growth in one week. When
harvested, the plant automatically regenerates
new shoots the following season to fully replace
P i c t u red: Cairo II Tarragon
the quantity harvested. This eliminates the need
to replant tree seedlings and staves off the threat
of extinction. Bamboo has been a source of the world’s most significant inventions including the
first successful light filament and the first manifestation of paper. Other common historical uses
include musical instruments, fishing rods, structural posts, furniture, irrigation pipes, weaponry, fine
clothing and décor fabrics. Wallpaper and curtains made from bamboo fiber can absorb ultraviolet
radiation in various wavelengths to lessen the harm to the human body and environment at large.
Refined Bamboo pulp that is processed into fiber is proven to possess strong durability, stability and
tenacity. Even after fifty washings, Bamboo fiber is validated by Japan Textile Inspection to protect
against bacteriosis and retain moisture absorption without chemical treatment or threat of skin
allergy. Raw materials are well-selected from non-polluted regions and are 100% biodegradable.
Textus fabric, Cairo II, incorporates Bamboo fiber to reinforce the company’s commitment to
produce reduced environmental impact textiles. The characteristically soft bamboo fiber, which can
be integrated into a variety of constructions, exhibits a quiet luster and is both natural and renewable.
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textus construction library bamboo page 1
complex weaves
simple beauty
ÉPINGLÉ
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Épinglé, a French term defined as a slender pin
wire, is a type of high loop construction used
to generate Moquette (or uncut) velvet fabrics.
Originating from Lucca, Venice and Genoa,
Italy, the art of épinglé weaving is a European
technique still in use today. Although the
construction continues to elicit a reference to
“Genoa Velvet,” more contemporary épinglé
weaving, historically referred to as Frieze, is
prevalently practiced in the Flemish region of
Kortrijk and in Belgium. Fashioned as apparel
for
princes,
kings,
bishops,
cardinals
and
popes during medieval times, épinglé fabrics
are characteristically opulent. In modern day
applications, this construction is most frequently
used as upholstery because of its soft hand and
high durability. As one of the first constructions
applied to commercial application, épinglé has
been featured by famous furniture designers
P i ctured: Linq Serrano
Charles and Ray Eames. This technique is woven
on a wire loom to create an all loop face on the
finished fabric. Textus makes the extravagance
of épinglé accessible with its Linq pattern,
featuring 30 different colorways. This type of
construction is excellent for a wide range of
upholstered applications including conference
rooms, boardrooms, auditoriums and theaters.
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textus construction library épinglé page 2
complex weaves
simple beauty
MOHAIR
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/Mohair generally refers to a silk-like pile fabric
or yarn made from the hair of the Angora goat.
The word Mohair was adopted into the English
language in 1570 from the Arabic word meaning
“to chose”. Most notable for its high luster and
sheen, mohair takes to dye exceptionally well
and can be blended with other yarns to enhance
the quality of the overall textile. The Angora
goat is thought to originate from the mountains
of Tibet, eventually migrating to Ankara, Turkey
by the 16th Century. Charles V is believed to be
the first to bring Angora goats to Europe and,
subsequently, America. Today, South Africa is
Pictured: Imper ial Mohair Wine
the largest mohair producer in the world, utilizing humane methods to shear the goats 1-2 times a year depending on the
desired fiber length. In one year, the Angora goat will produce 11 to 17 pounds of fiber for the following applications: scarves,
suits, sweaters, coats, socks, home furnishings, carpets, wall fabrics, and craft yarns. For the purpose of mohair weaves, the
age of the goat is often taken into account. Because mohair follicles increase in diameter over time, the finest hair comes
from younger animals and is used in delicate fabrics. The thicker hair from older animals is more often used for carpets
and heavy fabrics. Additionally, with enhanced modern technology Mohair weaves characteristically utilize a V binding with
a short upright pile for the best value and the lowest maintenance. Mohair fabrics integrating V binding show less crushing
and score equally on ACT tests. The Textus pattern, Imperial Mohair, is composed of 100% mohair fibers in a V binding
velvet construction and is available in 25 SKUs. To evoke the luxury inherent to upscale venues, designers often utilize
Imperial Mohair to adorn corporate dining banquettes and other high focal point public space applications. Additionally,
our mohair pattern is a durable and practical choice that ensures generational longevity in both its wear and aesthetic.
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textus construction library mohair page 3
complex weaves
simple beauty
Pictured: Mangrove R oots
P L E AT
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A pleat is a type of fold formed by doubling fabric back upon itself and securing it into place by a variety of means.
Donned in ancient Egypt by pharaohs and queens, the original pleat dates back to 4000 B.C.E. Often, the pleat was used
to distinguish the status of its wearer through either its multitude or direction on the fabric. Excavated Viking graves dating
back to the 10th century showcased linen tunics defined by their Plissé pleats; a narrow pleat set by gathering fabric with
stitches, wetting and drying its folds in place. Painter, Antoine Watteau, portrayed back necklines of 18th century tea
gowns with Box pleats to highlight ladies’ slender figures with a bulkier seam. Pleating was again resurrected in the 1840s
to provide texture and fullness to the chic narrow waist. Pleats can be configured in several different ways such as in the
Accordion, Cartridge, Box, Fortuny, Fluted, Knife, Honeycomb, Organ and Rolled styles. As the technique evolved, the
construction of tucking and binding fabric was mechanized. Having expanded from the world of apparel, the pleat is often
associated with giving shape to textile products. Fabric can be pleated and folded to create interesting textural effects as
well as functional ones. Patterns Sartorial and Mangrove retain the exquisite detail of its forerunners while still providing
the durability requisite to contemporary contract fabrics. Pleat constructions are a perfect fit for stunning lobby areas and
public spaces. They may also be used in boutique office design as a statement piece in sophisticated conference rooms.
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textus construction library pleat page 4
complex weaves
simple beauty
SILK
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Silk is a radiant, natural protein
fiber obtained from the cocoons
of mulberry silkworm larvae. The
shimmering luster and soft feel
of silk comes from the fibers’
triangular
prism-like
structure
which allows silk cloth to refract
incoming
light
at
different
angles. Known as the strongest
natural fiber, silk has the tensile
strength of steel and requires 2-3
thousand cocoons to make one
P i c t u re d: Silk Struktur Taupe
pound of yarn. First developed in ancient China by Chinese empress, Xi Ling-Shi, the fiber was originally reserved for kings
of dynasties and their harem of wives. Silk rapidly became a popular luxury fabric and a staple of pre-industrial international
trade. The first evidence of the silk trade was the finding of silk in the hair of an Egyptian mummy during the 21st dynasty.
Silk trade reached as far as the Indian subcontinent and was so extensive that the trade routes between Europe and Asia
were coined “The Silk Road”. Silk soon proliferated cities in Thailand, India, the Ancient Mediterranean, the Islamic world,
Medieval Europe, and North America. Industrialization brought about the downfall of the European silk industry. Silk is
now primarily manufactured in regions of China wherein production has more than doubled in the last 30 years. Despite
its soft, shiny and lustrous characteristics, silk can withstand strong force. A few eccentric applications of the fiber include
bulletproof vests, prosthetic arteries and non-absorbable surgical sutures; these strength-based uses reinforce appropriate
application in contract venues. Additionally, common usage takes advantage of silk’s absorbency properties. As a comfortable
choice of fabric in both warm and cool environments, its elegant luster and soft drape diversifies its applications beyond
apparel to include upholstery, wall coverings, window treatments, rugs and bedding. Texus pattern Silk Struktur integrates
elegant silk fibers into its overall composition to combine luxury with durability. The pattern is a both a hardy and
stunning addition to high end office venues with specific application on side chairs, lounge chairs and in grand lobby areas.
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complex weaves
simple beauty
Pictured: Ona Amandine
WOOL
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Wool is a fiber derived from specialized fleece found principally on sheep, goats, llamas and rabbits. Wool’s scaling and crimp
make it easier to spin the fleece fiber, provides greater bulk than other textiles, and retains ambient air, which causes the
product to preserve heat. Anthropologists believe that due to these properties, wool was created to surmount the challenge
of survival in the Neolithic Age. By 4000B.C., Babylonians were wearing clothing of crudely woven sheep’s fabric as plucked
by hand or bronze comb. Historically, the raw material has been readily available since the widespread domestication of
sheep. As a result, the wool trade defined a primary economic engine for the European Low Countries. The 15th Century
marked wool as a significant source of income to the English crown. As a result, a stringent tariff, called the “Great Custom”,
was put into place by the English government to strictly control exportation practices. With the presiding officer of the House
of Lords sitting upon a “Woolsack”, the fiber soon came to distinguish upper echelon noblemen. The English control over
wool trade escalated to such an extent that the American colonies were forbidden to trade wool with any country other than
“Mother England”. To enforce these parameters, smuggling of the fiber was punishable by the loss of one’s dominant hand.
As the mechanization of wool sheering improved, the production of the fiber soon expanded by global proportions. As a
hydroscopic fiber, wool has the power to readily absorb and give off moisture. It is highly breathable, largely cleanable, flame
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textus construction library wool page 6
complex weaves
WOOL
simple beauty
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resistant, and rapidly renewable. Additionally, it
has the greatest ability to return to its natural
length after being stretched and has the ability
to keep cool in the summer and warm in the
winter. Wool can be spun in several different
ways and harvested from a variety of species
to determine the weight, softness and durability
of the final product. Textus fabrics, Ona, H2O,
Code, Lana, Signet and Passages combine
wool with other fibers to lend the properties
of this fiber to their modern, high design
representations.
These
patterns
beautifully
complement accompanying fabrics and can serve
the purpose of warming up cool, neutral color
palettes in high-end corporate environments.
Pictured: Ona Amandine
Lambs Wool is a type of fleece that is taken from a young sheep before the age of eight months. Because the fiber has not
been cut, it has a natural, tapered end that gives a softer feel than that of mature sheep’s wool. Lana, a Textus creation,
utilizes Lambs Wool to provide supreme warmth and a soft hand.
Eco Wool is a natural wool yarn that is sheared from free range, roaming sheep that have not been subjected to toxic flea
dipping, nor treated with chemicals, dyes or bleaches. Committed to environmental stewardship, Textus composed the Ona
pattern from 70% Eco Wool and the Signet pattern from 100% Eco Wool.
Merino Wool is typically three to five inches in length and is the finest, softest and most valuable wool on the market. It is
also finely crimped and can be utilized in a variety of applications to enhance the softness of the surrounding environment.
Worsted Wool is spun from wool fibers that have been combed to ensure the woolen fibers all run in the same direction and
remain parallel. The essential features are the straightness of the fiber, its longer length and its fine texture.
*Other related animal fibers are Cashmere, Alpaca, and Camel hair.
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textus construction library wool page 7