COSMETIC
SAFALGIN RANGE
INCI Name: ALGIN
www.safic-alcan.com
1
OUTLINE
BACKGROUND
MARKET STUDY
PRODUCTION
Laminaria digitata*
STRUCTURE
PROPERTIES
USAGE INSTRUCTIONS
APPENDICES
*source: www.rangaputhali.com
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SAFALGIN RANGE: BACKGROUND
● Alginic acid is a polyuronide consisting of a sequence of L-guluronic acid (G) and D-mannuronic acid (M)
● Extracted from brown seaweed (Phaeophyceae family)
● INCI name: Algin
● Available in 2 grades Safalgin (300-400 CPS) and Safalgin Soft (400-600 CPS)
Lessonia nigrescens*
Lessonia trabeculata**
*source: www.noticiasperu-hoy.pe
** source : www.seaweedindustry.com
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SAFALGIN RANGE: MARKET STUDY
Category
90.0%
80.0%
Number of products launched with “Algin” in
Europe* in the past 12 months: 142 (source
Mintel)
70.0%
60.0%
50.0%
40.0%
30.0%
Skin care
20.0%
60.0%
10.0%
0.0%
50.0%
Skincare
Colour
Cosmetics
Hair
Deodorants Shaving & Soap & Bath
Products
Depilatories Products
40.0%
30.0%
20.0%
10.0%
0.0%
Face/Neck
Care
•
Body Care
Eye Care
Hand/Nail
Care
Sets
Sun Sun/Sunbed
Exposure
France, Germany, UK, Italy, Spain, Belgium,
Poland, Czech Republic, Portugal, Netherlands, Turkey
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SAFALGIN RANGE: PRODUCTION
Soak
Wash
Digest
Dilute
Float
Packing
Filter
Grinding
Drying
Calcification
Granulating
Neutralization
Extract
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SAFALGIN RANGE: STRUCTURE
Alginic acid is made of sequences of 2 hexuronic acid building blocks:
● α- L - guluronic acid
● β- D - mannuronic acid
We can find 3 types of polymers:
● Homogeneous mannuronic acid : M-M-M-M
● Homogeneous guluronic acid : G-G-G-G
● Alternating acids: M-G-M-G
Overall composition of the polymer depends on the species of seaweed and whether the stipe or
blade of the seaweed is used
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SAFALGIN RANGE: PROPERTIES
Alginates are either thickeners or gelling agents. This depends on the presence of calcium ions
● When a soluble alginate (Na, K and Mg form) is dissolved, the acid groups are completely ionized and a solution
is obtained in cold condition (in calcium free medium)
● Because of its specific structure, only the guluronic acid blocks can be associated in presence of calcium to form
crosslinks
● As a result, alginates rich in guluronic acids form stronger and more cohesive gels than alginates rich in
mannuronic acid which act as thickeners
● Alginic acid precipitates below pH 4
Source Intech – Open Science - Open Mind
MARCH 2016 │ Development Group
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SAFALGIN RANGE: PROPERTIES
Compatibility with ethanol:
Several tests in lab until 40% of ethanol:
% Ethanol
10
20
30
40
Viscosity
(mPa.s)
8080
43200
100000
91600
Aspect
Thick and firm
gel
Thick and
turbid gel
Very thick and
turbid gel
Thick, turbid
and smooth
gel
> 40%: not achievable in lab
Probably compatibility between Safalgin and high concentration of ethanol
Tolerance on a wide pH range (4
12)
Use with hot or cold process
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SAFALGIN RANGE: SUMMARY
Need to be activated in presence of cations (bi-, or trivalent)
● When macromolecules cannot be crosslinked, polymers behave as thickeners
● Gelation is obtained by the formation of a three-dimensional network
● Alginates rich in G form stronger and more cohesive gels
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SAFALGIN RANGE: USAGE INSTRUCTIONS
Usage instructions
● It is recommended for use in the stabilization of emulsifying creams since it holds
oil and water phase together
● As a rheological modifier, it brings the cream a bright, short and non-sticky texture with a pleasant feeling to the
skin
● Pre-disperse Safalgin in glycerin
● Once the mixture is homogeneous, add it to the water phase
Application formulae
● Face, neck, body, eye care formulae
● Sun care and after sun formulae
Recommended usage
● 0.2 – 1%
Formulated in
Wait &
Glow
Antioxidant Radiance Mask
Go to “Detailed application formulae”
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SAFIMASK RANGE
Safimask 7
● Alginate base powdery gelling system used as a base for peel-off mask
● Gel formation in cold condition
● Setting time: 5 minutes
Safimask Plus
● Complete dry mix formulation, exclusive to Safic-Alcan
● Smooth texture and non sticky surface
● Setting time: 7 minutes
Safimask Total
● Ready to mix 2-compartment gelling system for peel-off mask
● Contains a proprietary mixture of actives: MandarinClear (IP, bright skin), CurrePassion (IP, detox), LemonGrass
(IP, moisturizing), Oligo HA (Bioland, aging protector), ET-VC (from Corum, against photoaging)
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SAFIMASK RANGE: SUMMARY
COMPOSITION
SAFIMASK 7
SAFIMASK PLUS
SAFIMASK TOTAL AP
Solum Diatomeae
X
Algin
X
X
X
Calcium Sulfate
X
X
X
Tetrasodium
Pyrophosphate
X
X
X
Magnesium Oxide
X
Sucrose
X
Silica
X
Mica, Titanium
Dioxide
X
Water, preservatives,
humectant, pearl,
actives, xanthan,
guar, perfume
X
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SAFIMASK RANGE: SAFIMASK 7
Mix 30g of Powder Base Safimask 7 with 90g of water.
Mix it vigorously for 1 minute with a spatula until you get
an homogenous texture.
Apply an even layer of Base Safimask 7 on the skin with
a spatula or a brush (avoiding eye and mouth contours).
Wait for about 5 minutes until the mask formed.
Remove it like a second skin.
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SAFIMASK RANGE: SAFIMASK PLUS
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SAFIMASK RANGE: SAFIMASK TOTAL
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APPENDICES
WAIT & GLOW: ANTIOXIDANT RADIANCE MASK
Creamy gel texture
Protective, moisturizing, softening and
illuminating actives
Thanks to CaCl2 solution, emulsion
instantaneously becomes a mask that can
be easily removed like a « second » skin
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WAIT & GLOW: ANTIOXIDANT RADIANCE MASK
Oil / Water emulsion
Low oil phase
Association of 3 actives:
● Brightning and glowing active
● Soothing active
● Antioxidant active
Go back to “Usage instructions”
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