Composting and Food Recycling
Education Pack for Primary 5 – Primary 7
Contents
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Information for teachers p2-p7
Worksheet: Worm Quiz p8-p11
Activity: Compost Recipe p12-p18
Activity: Classroom Wormery p19-p27
Activity: Sunflower Compost Challenge p28-p40
Contact us:
01224 219281 or 08456 08 09 19*
[email protected]
www.aberdeencity.gov.uk/wasteandrecycling
www.facebook.com/recycleforaberdeen
*The only charge for this call will be your phone company’s access charge.
P5-P7
Information for teachers: Composting - Nature’s way of
recycling our food
We throw away about 630,000 tonnes of food and drink from our homes
every year in Scotland. This food waste amounts to a third of total
household waste. We actually throw away more food each year than we
do packaging. This costs the average household £430 each year and half of
the food waste thrown away could have been eaten.
The main reasons why we throw away good food are that we cook or prepare too much or
that we don't use it up in time. The foods that are most commonly wasted are fresh fruit
and vegetables, especially salad, as well as drinks and bakery items such as bread.
Not all food can be eaten as there will always be things like peelings, bones, egg shells etc.
But we don’t have to throw these in the bin!
Composting is nature’s way of recycling.
Composting is the natural process that breaks down and
decomposes food and garden waste and transforms it into
compost using some of the smallest creatures alive. Compost is a
beneficial material for the garden as it is full of nutrients that
plants need to grown strong and healthy. Adding compost will
help improve the structure of your soil, maintain moisture levels, and balance the soil's pH
levels while helping to reduce plant diseases.
Everything from vegetable and fruit peelings to teabags, toilet roll tubes, envelopes and
eggshells can be composted. Take care when composting cooked food, meat or fish, though,
as this can attract pests and create bad smells.
When food waste is buried in landfill, there is very little air or water around the organic
waste. Only anaerobic organisms are able to live in these conditions
and so they have to break down all the waste which can take a very
long time. As the waste breaks down, a harmful greenhouse gas
called Methane is produced. When this gas is released it damages the
Earth's atmosphere. This damage is resulting in climate change.
Climate change is a term used to describe the changes to our
weather systems which is a result of human activities, especially industry.
When this same food waste is composted above ground at home or school, oxygen is widely
available. This means that aerobic organisms can survive instead and they break the waste
down much faster. Aerobic organisms help the waste to decompose aerobically which
means hardly any methane is produced and this is good news for the planet. The added
benefit is that, after nine to twelve months, you get a free natural fertiliser for your garden
to keep your plants healthy. A compost bin is an efficient way of making rich compost and
results in fewer rubbish bags going to landfill.
Composting is a natural biological process, carried out under aerobic conditions (i.e. oxygen
is present). This is unlike the process in landfill where there is little to no oxygen present.
During the composting process, various micro-organisms - including bacteria and fungi feed on the organic matter (food and garden waste) and break it down into compost. There
are also special composting worms which are more red and stripy than Earthworms. These
worms feed on the decaying material that the micro-organisms have started to break down.
Together, they produce compost.
There are various factors that will affect how quickly you will get compost inside your
compost bin: how much Oxygen is present; the temperature as it needs to be warm;
moisture levels; how much organic matter is added for the creatures to feed on but also the
size and activity of the microbial populations. By controlling these factors, the normally slow
process of natural decay can progress much faster in the compost bin.
The composting process is carried out by three classes of microbes:
• Psychrophiles - low temperature microbes
• Mesophiles -medium temperature microbes
• Thermophiles - high temperature microbes
Through the respiration process, the microbes breathe in oxygen and breathe out carbon
dioxide and generate heat. The more heat is generated, the faster the decomposition occurs
because it makes a nice warm environment for them to live in and multiply.
To work well, the compost bin needs to be moist and needs to have a lot of air circulating.
The contents need to be mixed every few months to add air. It should also be warm inside
so keep it in the sunshine avoiding shaded areas. Site it on bare soil, not paving, so that
worms can move up from the soil into your compost bin. You will find these worms will
naturally move into the compost bin and you will build up a good population over time.
Don’t let the pile of organic waste get too small as they need plenty to feed on. Keep adding
materials throughout the year mixing them occasionally. The composter should be kept in a
place that is convenient for you to add food waste each day or two.
You should try to add an equal ratio of ‘Green’ materials to ‘Brown’ materials. This will allow
you to create good quality compost.
'Greens' are quick to rot and contain important nitrogen and moisture. They tend to be
softer materials.
'Browns' are slower to rot and contain carbon and fibre. They tend to be much drier
materials and allow air pockets to form in the compost.
Greens... Nitrogen Rich
These materials are usually
moist.
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Green leaves
Weeds before they go to
seed
Fruit peels, pulp and seeds
Vegetable peel and scraps
Spoiled out of date food
Grass clippings
Coffee grounds, including
the filter paper
Tea bags
Breads
Cooked pasta and rice
Seaweed
Hamster, rabbit and guinea pig
bedding
Cut flowers
Browns...Carbon Rich
These materials are usually dry.
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Dry leaves
Evergreen needles
Dried brown grass clippings
Bark chips
Straw or hay
Prunings and cuttings
Dryer/vacuum lint
Hair and fur
Egg shells (crushed)
Bird cage cleanings
Paper
Cardboard
Sawdust
Natural corks
Kitchen towels
There needs to be a good balance of these materials to form good quality compost. Try to
keep your compost moist.
If your compost is too dry, add a little water. If it is too moist and goes slimy, add some torn
up egg boxes or cardboard boxes, and turn the materials to get more air in.
You can compost all year round not just during summer months. The process will just slow
down a bit when it gets colder.
You will know your compost is ready to add to your flower beds when it is a dark brown
colour and smells nice and earthy. It should also be slightly moist and have a crumbly
texture. There may still be pieces of egg shell that you can see, but don’t worry, these can
go straight into your garden.
Compost systems
There are lots of different types of composters that you can have at home and at school.
Below are some examples:
Dalek compost bin
The most commonly used and widely available at garden centres, DIY
stores and some supermarkets. Millions are used all over the UK. It is an
easy system for composting lots of different materials. It usually has a lid
for adding materials and a hatch at the bottom for taking out the compost.
Tumblers
The tumbler allows the waste to be aerated. It is a drum mounted on a
stand and the drum can either tumble end over end or around on its axis.
This system is good for uncooked fruit and vegetable waste that is more
wet and dense.
Digesters or Green cone
The green cone has a basket buried under the ground and a double layered
cone above ground. It is designed so that no pests or vermin can get in so it is
ideal for cooked leftovers as well as meat and fish scraps. The food waste is
broken down naturally and then pulled into the soil by worms. It is used for
kitchen waste which is wetter and so the liquid seeps into the soil and helps
plants growing nearby. You don’t get compost but the nearby soil will be
enriched. You just need to move the cone every couple of years to a fresh patch.
Green Johanna
These composters are fully sealed with a base plate so no rats can get in.
They come with accessories such as a duvet to keep your compost warm
over the winter. You can put anything in here and they are easy to use.
Em bokashi fermenter
This system is anaerobic and uses bacteria to ferment the materials. There are
no bad smells and it can be placed directly in your kitchen. There are two
buckets, one inside the other, with holes drilled in the bottom of the inner
bucket to let liquid out. It comes with a bokashi mix which is a combination of
bran and micro-organisms. Every time you add food waste to the top bucket,
you sprinkle on the mix and push the materials down firmly. Reseal the lid and
leave the micro-organisms to get to work.
Wormeries
Worms eat rotting materials. They produce ‘worm casts’ and ‘worm
juice’ which are great for the soil and plants. Worm juice is more like a
natural fertiliser than compost and it needs to be diluted. Wormeries
do not use the type of worms you find in the garden but special ones
called tiger worms or dendras.
Hot heap
This system allows you to make much larger amounts of
compost and more quickly. This compost heap can get
really hot and cooks the seeds of weeds and roots and
kills any diseases or pathogens. It needs to be large and
well insulated. You can make the box out of old pallets.
Get in touch with the Recycling Team for designs!
Fill it with your materials and then cover over with old plastic sacks or sheeting. You can
monitor the heat inside using a thermometer. When the temperature drops turn the mix
inside. When you take the covers off there should be steam!
Whatever type of composter you chose, you will be able to recycle your food and garden
waste naturally. It’s really easy so why not give it a go!
The Scottish Government plans to put in place a ban on household organic waste going to
landfill by 2020. This will be the first law of its type in the UK and will not only ensure that
we gain value from recyclable waste, it will also make a substantial contribution to lowering
emissions of Methane from landfill sites. The Council will be ensuring that all households in
Aberdeen have a food recycling service in place by the end of 2015 - but why not try
composting yourself so you can directly benefit from using the compost in your gardens?
Let’s make sure that no food is sent to landfill this year. There are lots of options for home
and school so that you can recycle your food waste every day. And remember: try out
some of our tips for reducing food waste as well!
Useful website for further information:
http://www.aberdeencity.gov.uk/waste/recycling/rub_home_composting.asp
https://recycleforaberdeen.wordpress.com/2014/07/15/composting-for-beginners-part-1/
http://scotland.lovefoodhatewaste.com/
http://www.recyclenow.com/facts-figures/how-it-recycled/food-waste
http://www.keenanrecycling.co.uk/
Keywords: aerobic, anaerobic, bacteria, biological, carbon, climate change, composting,
decay, decomposition, environment, fertiliser, fibre, food waste, fungi, global warming,
greenhouse gases, landfill, methane, microbial, micro-organisms, moisture, mulch, nature,
nitrogen, nutrients, organic, oxygen, PH, recycling, respiration, rot, temperature.
Worm Quiz
How much do you know about worms?
1. How much of their body weight in food waste can a worm eat
every day?
 one half
 one third
 one quarter
2. What is worm poo called?
 worm casts
 worm dusts
 worm blasts
3. Do worms have eyes?
 Yes
 No
4. How many hundred million years have worms been around?
Answer = _________hundred million years
5. Do worms sleep?
 Yes
 No
6. Do worms eat soil?
 Yes
 No
7. Worms make tunnels in the earth which lets air into the soil.
Is that good or bad for the soil?
 Good for the soil
 Bad for the soil
8. Name one type of worm that can eat our kitchen waste?
Answer = ______________
9. Name two things that worms like to eat?
Answer = ______________
Answer = ______________
10. How many hearts do worms have?
 One
 Five
 Fifteen
11. How many segments do you think worms have?
 Over 100
 About 50
 Under 30
12. Do worms have legs?
 Yes
 No
13. Do worms eat living plants?
 Yes
 No
14. What do worms do when they get too hot or too cold?
 Hibernate
 Burrow deep in to the soil
 Put on jumpers
15. How do worms breathe?
 Through their noses
 Through their skin
 Through their eyes
16. How long do worms live?
 Up to 1 year
 Up to 10 years
 Up to 100 years
Worm Quiz Answers
1. How much of their body weight in waste can a worm eat every
day? The answer is half of their body weight! This is why they are so
fast at turning our food scraps into compost.
2. What is worm poo called? It’s called worm casts. This is what turns
into compost. The liquid produced is called worm juice.
3. Do worms have eyes? No - but they can sense light and vibrations.
They have nerves just under the surface of the skin all the way along
their body. These nerves are sensitive to light which is why their bodies
can sense, but not see, light and dark. Worms do not like light so they
hide under the soil.
4. How many hundred million years have worms been around?
Worms have been around for about 6 hundred million years. Charles
Darwin once stated “there may not be any other creature that has played
so important a role in the history of life on earth”.
5. Do worms sleep? No
6. Do worms eat soil? Yes. Worms have no teeth for chewing food.
Instead they grind food in a gizzard using muscle action. A gizzard is
like a stomach that has some grinding material such as tiny grains of
sand, topsoil or limestone in it. This material helps to break up their food
when they are eating so that they can digest it and gain nutrients from it.
The contractions from the muscles in the gizzard squeeze those
particles against each other and grind the food into smaller pieces.
7. Worms make tunnels in the earth which lets air into the soil. Is
that good or bad for the soil? It’s good. Worms move throughout the
soil bringing nutrients to the surface and providing tunnels for air and
rain to reach the plants' roots. Worms are really important creatures in
the soil.
8. Name one type of worm that can go in a wormery? Composting
worms are called Brandlings, Tiger worms, Dendra or Redworms.
Earthworms are a type of worm but they cannot go into our worm farms
because they are not fast enough at eating our kitchen waste.
9. Name two things which worms like to eat? Worms like food that is
decaying. They like lots of things such as fruit and vegetable peelings,
cereal, coffee grounds, tea, bread, crushed egg shells and newspaper.
10. How many hearts do worms have? Worms have 5 hearts to pump
their blood all along their long bodies. Their hearts are different to ours
but they still do the same job.
11. How many segments do you think worms have? Worms can
have over 100 segments on their body. If you look at worms under a
magnifying glass, you will see lots of little rings across their bodies which
look like they’re connected together. These rings are called segments.
Worms will have between 120-170 segments when they are fully grown.
The first segment is the mouth and on the last segment is the worm’s
bottom.
12. Do worms have legs? No, they don't have legs but instead are
covered in hairs or bristles that help them to move. These bristles are
called setae (pronounced see-tee) and they help worms move. They
have four pairs of these bristly hairs on each ring or segment.
13. Do worms eat living plants? No, they don't eat living plant tissue.
They only eat things which are starting to rot.
14. What do worms do when they get too hot or too cold? When it's
really cold outside in winter or baking hot in summer, worms are able to
survive by burrowing deep into the soil. By doing so, they also escape
from light which they don’t like.
15. How do worms breathe? Worms breathe through their skin. They
need to live in moist, humid conditions to save their skin drying out.
16. How long do worms live? A worm can live for up to 10 years. They
would need to avoid predators such as birds, moles, toads and slugs
though. If a worm is split in two, it will not become two new worms. The
head of the worm may survive and regenerate its tail if the animal is cut
behind the saddle. But the original tail of the worm will not be able to
grow a new head (or the rest of its vital organs), and will die.
Worms are fascinating creatures. What more can you find out about
our worm friends?
Compost Recipe
Teacher’s information:
Time required for activity: Approx. 1 hour
Time of year: During warmer months is preferable as the process will take place faster.
Monitoring: Check the compost approximately weekly to ensure it is breaking down.
Length of time until the class should have compost: Up to 2 months.
Value of workshop: This activity is ideal for linking the value between food recycling and
composting. It can help develop an understanding of natural systems such as decomposition. The
activity allows the class to observe the decomposition process on a small scale. This can be used as
a starting block for setting up a composting system in the school grounds on a larger scale.
Main topics covered: Nature’s way of recycling, recycling food and garden waste, microorganisms, decomposition, waste as a resource, 3Rs (reduce, reuse, recycle) and natural
processes. It encourages children to think about what happens to their food and garden waste at
home and at school and what the consequences are when these are not dealt with appropriately.
Curriculum Links:
Science: biodiversity and interdependence; processes of the planet; investigate types of microorganism; lifecycles of plants and animals; Earth’s materials; PH and chemical changes; topical
science.
Science: composting process; food recycling; the benefit of micro-organisms; scientific enquiry; life processes; develop
curiosity and understanding of the environment; apply safety measures; recognise the impact the sciences make on
our lives; understanding of the Earth’s resources.
Numeracy: time; measurement; information handling.
Numeracy: monitor the rate of breakdown of materials; measuring ingredients; measure the volume and weight of
food waste produced by the school.
Literacy: tools for listening and talking; finding, organising and using information; vocabulary;
understanding, analysing and evaluating.
Literacy: reading instructions; new vocabulary such as micro-organism; express views on composting; discuss or
debate responsibilities in terms of creating and dealing with waste, either at school or at home.
Technologies: discuss and develop imaginative ideas; 3Rs and resource use; sustainable
development.
Technologies: consider the design of the bottle and how it meets requirements; problem-solving the design of the
bottle; design a wormery; contribute to building a better world by taking responsible, ethical actions; be capable of
making reasoned choices relating to the environment; sustainable development and ethical, economic and cultural
issues; consider small scale solutions to household and school food waste.
Citizenship: aspects of daily lives; lifestyles and attitudes; culture; people, place and
environment; sustainability of key resources; environmental impact of human activity; climate
and weather.
Citizenship: taking responsibility; what harms/improves the environment; citizenship; attitudes of people towards
waste; waste as a resource; resource use and sustainability; establishment of a composting scheme as part of the
development of school grounds.
Why does composting matter?
Composting is nature’s way of recycling our food waste. It means that we can turn unwanted or
out of date food, scraps and peelings into a great plant food to help our plants grow.
If we don’t compost or recycle our food waste, it goes to landfill where it breaks down without
oxygen and creates greenhouse gases such as Methane. These greenhouse gases are contributing
to climate change which is changing the planet’s weather systems. We are running out of space for
landfill and it is a very expensive way to dispose of our waste. Composting is an inexpensive,
natural process that we can do at home instead.
Compost is full of good nutrients for your garden and will help improve the structure of your soil
so that roots can spread evenly. Compost also helps to retain moisture levels, reduce erosion and
maintain the pH balance of the soil while helping to reduce the likelihood of plant diseases.
Compost improves the overall condition of the soil aiding the healthy growth of plants and
flowers. If we just throw our food waste in the bin, we lose this useful product which we can make
for free at home and at school. It’s easy!
Activity:
Norman is a very special worm who loves making compost.
Norman is going to show the class how to make compost and he’s going to use a
special recipe that’s been in his family for generations.
This activity uses a small scale version of a compost bin to show the class how composting works
on a larger scale in the garden. Discuss with the class what they think compost is and how it is
made. See teacher’s notes on composting for more information.
Ingredients:
Greens: These materials are wet
• Fruit peelings and pulp
• Vegetable peel and scraps
• Grass clippings
• Green leaves
• Coffee grounds
• Tea bags
• Cut flowers
• Seaweed
• Seeds
• Leftovers
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Browns: These materials are dry
Dry leaves
Straw or hay
Paper such as shredded newspaper
Cardboard such as torn up egg boxes
Prunings and hedge clippings
Sawdust
Kitchen towels
Eggshells
Vacuum cleaner lint
Natural corks
What you will need:
 A 500 ml clear plastic bottle. Remove the labels and wash well. Keep the lid.
 Clear tape
 Scissors
 Permanent marker
 Soil from the school garden
 Greens and Browns materials (anything from the ingredients list above)
 Compost accelerator such as Garrota or Biotal (available at garden centres)
 Water (a spray bottle of water is useful)
 Antibacterial wipes
 Gloves
Health and safety:
Take care not to touch mouth or eyes when handling materials. Gloves can be worn during the
workshop. Wash hands thoroughly after the workshop even if gloves have been worn or use
antibacterial wipes.
Use a spoon to handle the compost accelerator, not bare hands.
The teacher should cut the bottles preferably before the workshop. Make a hole about 1/3 of the
way down from the lid and then cut around the bottle leaving a bit uncut to make it easier to tape
the bottle closed again afterwards. Also add a few holes to let air in.
Method:
• Usually compost bins are quite big and live in the garden. For this activity, to see how the
process works, this plastic bottle will act as a mini compost bin.
• A compost bin sits on bare soil outside so the worms can travel up into it. As this is a
classroom activity, there will be no composting worms because it wouldn’t be a nice place
for them to live. Instead, bacteria, which are present in the soil, will break down the waste.
• To simulate the ground, add a 2 cm layer of soil from the school garden to the bottom of the
bottle.
• To get the perfect compost, add the same amounts of green and brown materials. Above,
there is a list of ingredients given for examples.
• Green materials are wet things like fruit and vegetable peelings. They are Nitrogen rich
materials and are often quite soft. These break down quite quickly.
• Brown materials are dry things like dead leaves and shredded paper. They are carbon rich
and add fibre. Having brown materials adds air pockets to your compost which is really
important. They usually take longer to break down.
Norman adds a sprinkling of potato peelings and a dash of banana skin…
• These are examples of green materials. They need to be cut up small so that the compost
will work quicker. Add about a 2 cm layer of the green materials.
Add to this a dollop of soil from the garden…
• This should be about a 1 cm layer on top of your greens.
A handful of dry leaves and a spoonful of hay…
• This provides a 2 cm layer of some brown materials.
• Follow this with a 1 cm layer of soil.
• It’s a bit like making a lasagne but using some of the leftover organic things that can be
found in the kitchen and garden.
• Continue to layer green and brown materials with soil in between. Stop before the
cut line of the bottle.
Apple core… soil… torn up egg box…. soil… seaweed… soil…. sawdust… soil…
• If only green materials were added, it would go smelly and slimy. But, if only brown
materials were added, it would be too dry and take too long to break down. There needs to
be an even ratio through the layers.
Norman’s family secret ingredient…
• Now all that is needed is the secret ingredient - the compost activator! Add about a 1 cm
layer of the compost activator to the top layer. This will help give a kick start to your
composter and help the bacteria get to work.
And the final touch…a sprinkle of water. Ta dah!
• This will trigger the compost activator.
Bake in a sunny spot…
• Now just tape the bottle up loosely and leave it on a window sill or in a sunny area of
the school garden for up to 2 months to allow the materials to turn into compost.
• Mark the side of the bottle with the level the compost is currently at. This will be the
starting fill level.
• Monitor the fill level every week or two and draw the new level on the bottle. Observe the
changes in volume over time. Keep a diary of the fill levels each time it is checked and if
anything has changed such as removing the lid for a day or adding more materials.
• During the 2 months, if it starts to smell, add more brown materials like shredded paper and
mix it to allow air in. If it is very wet and slimy, leave the lid off for a while to help it dry out.
• If nothing happens, add more green materials like fruit peel and mix in with a bit of water.
• In the big compost bins outside, lots of creatures help make the compost by eating all the
things that are added. This experiment relies solely on the bacteria in the bottle but they
are actually the most important in composting.
• Once the compost is ready, it can be put out into the school garden, sprinkled in around
flower beds or put in plant pots in the classroom.
• Remember to wash hands thoroughly after the workshop even if gloves have been
worn.
• You can rinse the plastic bottles and then recycle them.
Discussion:
What happened to the materials added to the bottle?
Discuss the process of decomposition.
Research and draw a picture of the decomposition cycle.
Compare this mini compost bottle with what is going on in a larger compost bin in the garden.
What creatures would you find in a compost bin and what do they do there?
Additional:
The teacher can demonstrate the difference between good and bad compost by filling a jam jar
with fruit and vegetable scraps and putting the lid on it for a few weeks. You can do this before the
workshop in the classroom so you can compare it with good compost or alongside this workshop.
Good compost should feel drier and smell fresh and earthy. Bad compost will be wet and slimy and
smell bad. The compost in the jam jar will go smelly because there is no air so the conditions
become anaerobic - just like in landfill.
A homemade compost accelerator can be made using simple ingredients.
Nettles act as an accelerator for compost as they are a rich source of nitrogen.
The workshop can also be carried out using a fertiliser of fish blood and bone instead of a compost
accelerator. The compost accelerator, however, is preferable for classroom activities.
This activity shows how a plastic bottle that you are finished with can be reused as a compost bin.
It can provide a good link into the Reuse topic of the 3Rs theme. It can also be recycled at the end
of its life to complete the 3Rs cycle.
Glossary
Aerobic: Aerobic composting needs oxygen to be present. As long as plenty of air is available, aerobic
decomposers work faster and more efficiently than anaerobic decomposers. This usually takes place
aboveground. Aerobic decomposers generate heat as a by product of their activity.
Anaerobic: Anaerobic composting requires a different set of organisms and conditions than aerobic
composting. Anaerobic organisms work in an environment with little to no oxygen. Most anaerobic
composting takes place underground in pits, just like in landfill. Anaerobic organisms give off smelly gases
as a by-product. Anaerobic composting produces a very acidic environment similar to your stomach. The
term “digester” is used to describe anaerobic composting.
Bacteria: plural form of bacterium. Bacteria are micro-organisms and are only a few micrometres in length.
Bacteria can be found everywhere. They can be dangerous, such as when they cause infection, or
beneficial, as in the process of decomposition. Bacteria are actually responsible for most of the
decomposition in the compost bin and are really important.
Climate change: Climate change is a significant, continuing shift in the planet's weather patterns or
average temperatures. Earth has had tropical climates and ice ages many times in its 4.5 billion years.
However, from the Industrial revolution onwards, a clear change can be recognised which could be a result
of human activities.
Compost accelerator: used to help boost a compost bin especially when it is new. They speed up the
natural process of composting. They contain high levels of nitrogen (a nutrient found in green waste). There
are also activators containing carbon (found in brown waste). The main ingredient in accelerators is nitrate
which is why nettles are a good option (because they contain a lot of it). The accelerator provides food to
promote bacterial growth.
Composting: To convert organic matter into compost. The process of changing organic matter, such as
leaves and food waste, that has decayed or has been digested by organisms, and turning it into compost
used to improve soil structure and provide nutrients. Composting allows for control of the natural process
of decomposition to allow it to work faster and provide a compost material.
Decomposition: the state or process of rotting; decay; the natural breakdown of organic materials.
Food waste: Items of food that we want to dispose of and cannot use (not including its packaging). This can
consist of unavoidable food waste, such as egg shells or vegetable peelings, but also leftovers from meals
and food that has gone out of date. This is sometimes also called organic waste.
Greenhouse gases: Any gas that contributes to the greenhouse effect and climate change including Carbon
dioxide and Methane. These gases absorb solar radiation in the atmosphere.
Landfill: the disposal of waste material by burying it in pits in the ground.
Methane: Methane is a chemical compound which is a colourless, odourless, flammable gas and is the main
constituent of natural gas which is used as a fuel. It is considered a harmful greenhouse gas when there is a
lot of it present in the atmosphere. A common by-product of anaerobic decomposition, especially within a
landfill site.
Micro-organism: microscopic living organisms, including bacteria, algae and fungi. Too small to be seen
with the naked eye but visible under a microscope. Also called microbes.
Oxygen: Oxygen is a chemical element and a life-supporting component of the air that we breathe. It is
essential for aerobic respiration and, therefore, essential for composting.
PH balance: measures the acid or alkaline levels of a solution. The pH scale ranges from 0-14: Acid 0-6
(vinegar, lemon juice) Neutral 7 (pure water) Alkaline 8-14 (toothpaste, baking soda). It is related to
hydrogen levels. Your skin has a PH of about 5.5.
Recycling: the process of changing waste materials into new products. Prevents the waste of useful
materials. Recycling reduces: the need to use new raw materials; energy use; air and water pollution; and
the need for disposal in landfill. Recycling is a key component of the "Reduce, Reuse and Recycle" waste
hierarchy.
Resource: a source or supply from which benefit is produced. Natural resources are resources supplied by
nature and include fresh water, timber, etc. Finite resources will run out and include oil and coal.
Renewable resources are things like wind energy or solar power which we can continue to harvest from
nature indefinitely.
Sustainability: Conserving an ecological balance by avoiding depletion of natural resources. Sustainability
creates and maintains the conditions under which humans and nature can exist in productive harmony.
Further Information:
http://www.recyclenow.com/recycle/recycle-school/composting
http://apps.rhs.org.uk/schoolgardening/teachershome/resources/usefulwebsites/default.aspa
https://www.education.gov.uk/publications/.../G-MATGSG030515.pdf
http://www.homecomposting.org.uk/schools/master-composters-for-schools
Key words: Composting, decay, decomposition, environment, food waste,
greenhouse gases, landfill, micro-organism, nutrients, recycling.
Classroom Wormery
Keep worms as your classroom pet!
Having a worm bin or wormery in the classroom teaches children about food recycling,
habitats and nature’s cycles, as well as the responsibilities associated with caring for living
things. This activity also reduces the amount of waste your classroom generates and
provides a free, natural fertiliser to boost pot plants in the classroom or your school garden.
Worm compost, also called worm castings (or worm poop!), is full of nutrients which feed or
fertilise the soil to help plants grow strong and healthy. Composting is a great way to create
a natural fertiliser. The liquid that you get (or worm juice) is also a potent natural fertiliser
but it must be diluted before you use it on any plants.
Worms are very easy to look after. The children can take responsibility for them and give
them names. They make an ideal classroom pet!
Curriculum Links:
Science: Biodiversity and interdependence; processes of the planet; investigate types of
micro-organism; lifecycles of plants and animals; Earth’s materials; PH and chemical
changes; topical science.
Develop curiosity and understanding of the environment; explain processes which contribute to climate
change and discuss possible impact; topical science considering current issues such as food waste and waste as
a resource; develop understanding of how species depend on one another and on the environment for
survival; understanding of the positive and negative impact of the human population on the environment;
understanding of natural processes such as decomposition; understanding of the Earth’s resources.
Numeracy: Time; Measurement; Number processes
Potential for population counts; understanding the measurement of time that natural processes take to work
e.g. the decomposition of food waste.
Literacy: Tools for listening and talking; finding, organising and using information;
vocabulary; understanding, analysing and evaluating
Potential to keep a wormery diary or feeding log; extend and enrich vocabulary with new words such as
decomposition; discussion and listening skills on opinions of topic; showing an understanding of facts that can
be listened to or watched, by commenting, with evidence, on the content.
Technologies: Discuss and develop imaginative ideas; scientific and technological
developments; 3Rs and resource use; sustainable development.
Consider the design of the wormery and how it meets requirements; design a wormery; contribute to building
a better world by taking responsible, ethical actions; be capable of making reasoned choices relating to the
environment, sustainable development and ethical, economic and cultural issues; consider small scale
solutions to household and school food waste.
Citizenship: Aspects of daily lives; lifestyles and attitudes; culture; people, place and
environment; sustainability of key resources; environmental impact of human activity;
climate and weather
Taking responsibility; caring for living things; what harms/improves the environment; citizenship; attitudes of
people towards waste; waste as a resource.
Why keep a wormery?
Out in nature, decomposers live under logs, rocks, and leaves. They eat organic matter and
then leave behind nutrient rich compost in the soil. This is nature’s way of recycling!
Decomposers are vital to the process of composting where the natural decay is sped up.
Decomposers living in the compost bin, such as worms, have really important jobs. They
help keep the compost heap warm and digest our food and garden waste into compost
which we can then use as a natural fertiliser in the garden to help our plants grow.
Worms pass food through their bodies and leave behind castings which are nutrient rich
pieces of crumbly compost. These castings can be added to houseplants, gardens and even
to farmland where farmers grow our food.
Wormeries are perfect because they take up very little space and can be kept indoors. This
way you can recycle your food waste and use the compost and worm juice for your indoor
plants as well as in your garden.
Composting food waste not only adds nutrients to the soil, but it also saves sending it to
landfill. We are running out of space for landfill sites and it is a really expensive way of
disposing of our waste. The rubbish is crushed down to make space for more rubbish but
this means that there isn’t room for air or water. Without air and water, decomposers can’t
survive so they can’t break down the food that ends up there. The waste is eventually
broken down by anaerobic bacteria and they emit greenhouse gases such as Methane which
contributes to climate change by trapping heat from the sun.
If too much of these greenhouse gases are created then too much heat gets trapped in the
atmosphere or layer of air surrounding the earth. Over time, this raises the average
temperature of the planet and creates serious changes in our weather. This is called global
warming or climate change. Landfills are actually the largest source of methane in the
country. We can help to reduce the amount of methane being produced by composting our
food instead of throwing it in the bin.
Landfills are like graveyards for rubbish; once rubbish goes there, it stays for a very long
time. It takes far longer for food to decompose in a landfill site compared to only a few
months in a compost bin. When food is composted, it turns into a really useful product
called compost, which we can use to grow healthier plants. If we just send it to landfill, we
lose it forever.
Setting up your classroom wormery
The worm bin
You can buy pre-made wormeries with a tap for extracting the liquid. There is a list of
suppliers at the end of this document.
However, they can also be made from old containers. Worm bins can be made out of
second-hand plastic storage containers or old plywood. Just make sure that the bin is
covered on all sides, with a tightly placed lid. Wooden bins are best as they allow aeration
and drainage.
The bin should be approx. 20cm to 40cm deep. Tiger worms are surface feeders, so try to
avoid bins deeper than 40cm. Holes should be drilled on all sides of the bin because worms
also need oxygen to breathe so good ventilation is essential. Holes will permit aeration and
drainage if the bin gets too wet.
A ‘worm bin’ or ‘wormery’ usually consists of at least two compartments: a lower collection
sump for the liquid and an upper composting area where the kitchen waste goes in and the
worms actively work. However, single compartment wormeries can be also used. The class
may want to discuss what features they would design for their own wormery.
Wormery conditions
Your worms will need a good habitat to live in including shelter, food, air and water, in order
to survive.
Worms are most active in warm, moist conditions, preferably between 18-25oC (64-77oF).
Their activity noticeably declines below 10oC (50oF) and above 30oC (86oF).
Worms breathe through their skin and need to stay moist in order to breathe. However, if it
gets too wet in your wormery, the conditions could make it smelly and, if the wormery
becomes waterlogged, it can restrict their air supply. If this happens, add some shredded
paper to soak up the extra moisture.
Composting worms also prefer a pH within 6.5-7.0. They do not like acidity so avoid putting
in citrus fruits.
The worms
Composting worms live in decaying organic matter, whereas earthworms are soil dwellers.
You can’t take normal earthworms out of the ground and put them in a wormery; however,
composting worms are commonly found in garden compost heaps so you could collect them
from there.
Composting worms are smaller and darker red than the common earthworm Lumbricus
terrestris. The compost worms are stripier and can be easily distinguished.
The best composting worms to use are the Tiger worms, also known as the Brandling worm.
Their proper scientific name is Eisenia fetida. You can also use the Bluenose worm
(Dendobaena Veneta), the European night crawler worm (Eisenia Hortensis) or the
Redworm, also known as the red wiggler (Eisenia Andrei).
Tiger worms are a little more expensive but are considered the best choice for wormeries.
Young worms are preferable to older worms. Tiger worms are hermaphrodite and reach
sexual maturity at approximately 6 weeks old. You will naturally build up generations of
worms over time to keep the wormery going. When it comes to composting, the condition,
age, size and species of worm is more important than their weight.
Establishing the wormery
To set up your wormery you will need to put in about an 8cm layer of moist ‘bedding
material’ such as old compost or coir which is often supplied with a bought wormery. Coir is
a natural fibre extracted from the husk of coconut. It is used in products such as doormats
and brushes. You can also add some moistened shredded paper as a bedding layer.This
creates a humid layer for the worms to burrow into and begin to digest the food. Place the
composting worms on top of the bedding layer then cover with no more than an 8-10cm
layer of food waste. You can then leave them for about one week to allow the worms time
to settle into their new environment.
Wormeries are slow to start up largely because the worms can't eat the fresh food waste
most of us put in the bin. It needs a few weeks of initial microbial decomposition to have
occurred before they can ingest the food waste (not even Tiger worms have teeth!)
Feeding the worms
For best results, add small amounts of organic waste but often. You will need to chop the
waste into smaller pieces so it can be eaten faster. Place the fresh food waste on the top.
You can bury the food within the compost to create feeding pockets if you think they are
taking a while to get through the waste. If the waste is not being eaten then feeding should
be stopped for a few days until the worms start to work through the existing food. Try to
avoid adding more waste than the worms can cope with so keep an eye on them. You may
need to use a compost bin alongside the wormery if your classroom generates a lot of food
waste.
Worms enjoy a varied diet eating any decaying organic matter. Your wormery can take:
 Any raw vegetables, except for onions, shallots, leeks and garlic; these are best
avoided or used in small amounts and cooked first.
 Any cooked vegetables
 All fruit, except citrus peel, which needs to be limited or preferably cooked before
adding.
 Tea bags and coffee grounds
 Small amounts of bread like crusts
 Crushed eggshells
 Limited amounts of newspaper, shredded office paper and cardboard, but not glossy
magazines
 Small amounts of garden waste such as leaves and other soft green material
Remember: Fruit and vegetable scraps that contain seeds can be included but the seeds may
germinate in the wormery. Avoid putting in grass as this can also set seed.
Worms generally prefer to eat a vegan diet. Being vegan means only eating plant-based
foods like fruits, vegetables, beans, nuts, seeds and grains. Avoid dairy products, fat, grease,
meat, fish and bones as these are likely to attract unwanted pests and the worms are less
keen on them. You should also avoid adding large quantities of tough leaves and woody
material like twigs as it will slow the system down. If you have a lot of garden waste, it may
be best to use a compost bin as well.
The class may notice that as the worms feed and move around, they make a noise that is
similar to when you pour milk into a bowl of rice krispies cereal.
Maintenance
The wormery needs to be kept quite moist. Organic waste usually has high moisture content
so if the lid is kept tightly on then it is unlikely to dry out. You can add a little water if the
wormery does appear too dry. It is useful to use a spray bottle and mist inside rather than
pour a little water in.
An established wormery can be left without the addition of food for up to four weeks so it
will be fine for over most of the school holidays. You may want to check on it once or twice
over the summer break. Don’t add excess food before you go away to keep them going, as
this may become rancid. Feed them as normal, perhaps adding extra damp cardboard or a
layer of leaves (this will provide food for the worms but won’t go off).
The liquid that accumulates at the bottom needs to be drained off occasionally to avoid
waterlogging. This is the worm juice and it is a potent natural fertiliser so you can bottle it to
use on your plants. Just remember to dilute it one parts worm juice to ten parts water first.
You can occasionally gently fork the compost in the wormery with a hand fork to check that
the worms are alive and healthy. It will also help add air into the compost. You can add extra
worms to the existing population every so often to keep the population healthy as well.
Take care to maintain a warm temperature especially during the winter months. You may
need to move it to a warmer spot during this season.
Avoid overloading the wormery with organic waste. Add small amounts regularly but keep
an eye on it. Wormeries with a greater surface area will work faster so take into account the
size of the wormery as well as how many worms you have in there.
Emptying the wormery
Wormeries can be emptied when they are full of compost; this takes about 8 to 12 months.
You need to separate the worms before using the compost otherwise you will lose your
population. You can continue to use the wormery with the same population.
You can remove the compost periodically throughout the year when you need it and extract
the worm juice regularly as well so that the wormery doesn’t become waterlogged.
Annual cleaning
It is good to have an annual clean out to prevent odours and to keep the wormery healthy.
 Remove all the compost with the worms and set aside.
 Drain off all the liquid worm juice and keep in bottles to use later.
 Wash out the wormery with warm soapy water giving it a good rinse and then
reassemble. Make sure there are no blockages in the spout so you can easily extract the
worm juice throughout the year.
 Put down a bed of clean shredded paper and add a layer of half the compost and worms
you took out. If you want to keep some of the compost to use in the garden then
remove the worms from it first so you don’t lose them from your population. If the
weather is warm and dry, you can spread the contents of the wormery thinly over a
polythene sheet. Cover the centre of the compost with a layer of wet newspaper. As the
rest of the compost dries, the worms will move towards the cool, moist compost under
the newspaper. You can then collect them from here and put them back in the wormery
and keep the rest of the compost on the sheet for using in your garden.
 Add another layer of shredded paper on top of the compost in the wormery and then
the rest of the compost and worms again. Put in some food for them and then replace
the lid and put back in position.
 Wipe down the outside as well to keep it clean.
Worm compost and liquid
The compost is made of worm castings or worm poop. It can be used as a general soil
conditioner because it is rich in nitrogen and potassium. Compost looks like soil and is the
colour of dark chocolate. It should feel crumbly and smell clean and fresh like the earth after
it rains. You can put the compost into your plant pots, or use it in the school garden.
You can also use a small amount to make “compost tea” by dissolving a handful of compost
in a litre of water. The water should turn the colour of iced tea. Use this tea to water plants
and to spray on their leaves to help fight pests and diseases.
The worm juice can be drained from your wormery and used as a liquid fertiliser on plants.
Dilute it with water at a rate of 1 part worm juice to 10 parts water. It’s best to use it on
mature plants rather than young plants or seedlings as it is quite potent.
Problems
Some food waste has strong odours, which can attract flies. These flies are harmless but
they can be a nuisance. This problem can be avoided by burying the new waste in the
decomposed material or covering it with a layer of damp newspaper. Do not use chemicals
to control the flies as they could harm the worms.
The wormery can also start to smell if there is too much waste added for the worms to cope
with. This could also attract flies and possibly vermin. Remove and dispose of excess or
undigested food. Wait until the worms start digesting the top layer of food before adding
further waste.
The wormery may also start to produce an unpleasant odour is if it becomes too wet. Drain
off excess liquid regularly to avoid this and add some shredded paper or card to absorb any
excess moisture.
If you improve drainage but the smell persists, the conditions may have become slightly too
acidic for the worms. To correct this, apply a small dressing of calcified seaweed or calcium
carbonate (garden lime, ground chalk or ground limestone). This should rebalance the PH
and the smell should disappear.
Where you can buy a ready made wormery:
The type of wormery we currently use in our office can be found at Greenfingers.com
 http://www.greenfingers.com/search_adv.asp?sp=wormeries&NavSource=search
Other options include:
 https://www.wormery.co.uk/wormeries.htm
 http://www.protecttheplanet.co.uk/wormeries/the-midi-wormery.html
 http://www.amazon.co.uk/Natures-Wormery-Standard-2-TrayKit/dp/B007URGGLS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1419000568&sr=83&keywords=wormeries
The designs tend to be similar but with various tiers and sizes. It is worth shopping around
to get the best price.
You can also buy worms for a wormery to top up your population or for starting out. Here
are some options to get you started.
 http://www.amazon.co.uk/Happy-worm-company-CompostingWorms/dp/B000O8I2TE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1419000885&sr=83&keywords=wormery+worms;
 http://www.bucketofworms.co.uk/3-worms-for-composting
If you would like any help and advice on setting up a wormery or compost bin you can
contact the Recycling Team on the details below:
01224 219281 or 08456 08 09 19*
[email protected]
www.aberdeencity.gov.uk/wasteandrecycling
www.facebook.com/recycleforaberdeen
*The only charge for this call will be your phone company’s access charge.
Keywords: composting, decomposition, fertiliser, food waste, habitats,
nutrients, organic matter, recycling, responsibility
Yes please
Fruits
Vegetables
Beans
Nuts
Seeds
Cereal and bread
Paper
Cardboard
Coffee grounds
Tea bags and tea leaves
Crushed egg shells
No thank you
Dairy
Fish
Eggs
Meat
Citrus peel
Fatty or greasy foods
Rice
Pasta
Cooked potatoes
Onions
Garlic
This certificate is awarded to
……………………………..
For their knowledge and understanding of
worm farming,
food recycling and composting
Sunflower compost challenge P5-P7
Estimated Time required:
Discussion and set up time: Approx. 30 minutes
Plant growth: 2 weeks to seedling stage, 4 months to mature plant
producing seed
∗ A scoop, spoon or pot to act as a scoop/measure
∗ Three sunflower seeds per pot or tray
∗ Sticky labels
∗ Pen to mark individual pots
∗ Pupil worksheet
Time of year to undertake activity: March
Plant care: 10 minutes each day
Class may also need:
Observation time: Weekly for up to 4 months
Plastic syringes or measuring jugs for watering
Room thermometer
Materials required:
Soil thermometer
Each group will need:
Light meter
∗
∗
∗
2 plant pots or trays - you can reuse old yoghurt pots or other
small plastic containers but pierce holes in the bottom for
drainage.
Soil - natural soil taken from the school ground is better than
pre-packaged potting soils for experiments such as this because
the potting mixes are formulated for optimal plant growth and
already contain significant amounts of compost.
Compost - if you don’t have a compost bin, this can be bought
at a garden centre. The recycling team can have stock of
compost bins at reduced rates too. Contact us for details.
Health and safety:
Keep cuts and any broken skin covered.
After handling any compost or waste materials, wash hands well with
soap and running water.
Do not touch eyes or mouth after touching soil or compost.
People with breathing or immune deficiency problems should avoid
exposure to soil or compost; fungal spores are released which may cause
an allergic reaction in susceptible people.
Sunflower compost challenge P5-P7
This activity is ideal for linking the value between food recycling and composting and how this helps a plant grow strong and healthy. Pupils will
also learn factors affecting germination and growth; the growth cycle; how to identify and label the main parts of a plant and the discussion
can also lead to lessons on pollination.
Skills developed will include: plant care; close observation; accurate measurement and recording; prediction, questioning and researching.
Sunflowers are one of the most widely grown plants in classrooms and they grow quickly. The mature plants can be used in other classes such
as art projects and the seeds can be fed to the birds in the winter months. Sunflowers are great at attracting pollinators such as bees into the
garden.
Sunflowers are named both because their flowers look like the sun but also because the flowers themselves track the movement of the sun
during the day, facing east in the morning and west in the afternoon. The sunflower’s ‘flower’ is actually a collection of over 2000 individual
tiny flowers that are joined together on a base. The large petals on the outside of the flower are called the ray flowers.
Curriculum Links:
Science: biodiversity and interdependence; processes of the planet; lifecycles of plants and animals; Earth’s
materials; topical science.
Science: topics include labelling parts of plants; what plants need to grow; seed germination; the growth cycle of a plant; pollination by
bees; how compost is made from food waste
Numeracy: time; measurement; number processes; estimation; patterns and relationships; information
handling; data and analysis
Numeracy: measuring height over period of time; developing graphs; measuring mean values; and potentially selling plants, weighing and
counting seeds
Literacy: tools for listening and talking; finding, organising and using information; vocabulary; understanding,
analysing and evaluating
Literacy: diary of sunflower growth; new words such as bacteria or anaerobic; following instructions
Expressive arts: experience inspiration and nurture creativity
Expressive arts: sunflowers in paintings (Van Gogh); Sunflowers in design (William Morris); Sunflowers within own artwork.
Technologies: 3Rs and resource use; sustainable development.
Technologies: Sunflower oil used as a renewable resources and food crop; consider small scale solutions to household and school food waste.
Sunflower compost challenge P5-P7
The Activity:
The class can work as a whole or in small groups.
The activity should begin with a discussion about how compost is made and the value of recycling food waste at home
and at school. Discuss the conditions a plant needs for healthy growth including light, water, temperature and
nutrients. How will compost aid in plant growth? What parts of the plant does the class think will grow first?
Explain the composting process. What converts decomposing kitchen scraps, weeds, dead plants, and paper (almost
anything that will rot) into dark and crumbly compost? See teacher’s notes for more information.
The class may know that bacteria are very important and that there are lots of them in compost. One gram of garden
compost contains more than one thousand million micro-organisms. Their needs are very similar to ours because they need air, moisture, warmth
and food. These conditions are met when the right quantity and mixture of composting material is collected and piled together. The bacteria (and
fungi) eat the organic waste and their population rises. The heap warms up as they break down the waste in numbers and the composting process
has begun. The end product is compost that helps return vital nutrients to the soil for plants to uptake and use to grow strong and healthy.
You can sow the seeds indoors from January but keep an eye on the temperature in the classroom. It is best to start the activity in March so
that you can run the activity up until the start of the summer holidays and then pupils can take plants with them for their garden at home or
plant in the school garden. After the summer holidays the edible seeds can be harvested.
Sunflower compost challenge P5-P7
Method:

Each group should have two pots. Fill one pot with plain garden soil only. In the other pot add compost to the soil. Use a scoop
measure to add the same amount of plain soil or compost enriched soil to the pots. Mark on the sticky labels the group number or
name, whether the pot contains compost or just soil and the date potted.

Plant three seeds into each pot. This is to ensure adequate germination as not all seeds will germinate.

Ensure the pots have good drainage and place them on drainage trays so the water doesn’t leak over the
table or window sill.

Water them well when you plant the seeds but take care not to over water the growing plants as they can
develop a fungal infection and this could kill the plants regardless of whether they are in the compost mix
or not. The soil should be moist to touch but not too wet and the water should sink in quickly when
watered. It is best to just water once when you plant the seeds and then cover with cling film or a plastic
bag until the seedling emerges (usually about 6 – 12 days). Once the seedling emerges, you can then
remove the cover and water regularly keeping the plant in good light.

Keep the plants indoors in a sunny spot by a window. Try not to place all the compost enriched pots
together at one end of the window sill and the plain soil pots at another. Randomize their layout as this will minimise the effect of slight
variations in their environmental conditions.

To ensure a fair test, make sure that all pots have been given the same amount of growth media (soil or compost enriched soil). Each
pot should also have the same number of seeds and receive the same amount of light and heat. Water all the plants at the same time
and with the same volume of water in each.
Sunflower compost challenge P5-P7
Seeds in the compost enriched soil should show the strongest growth as they are growing in a nutrient rich environment. Seeds grown in the
plain garden soil should also germinate but the growth will be slower.
The seeds should take 1-2 weeks to germinate and grow into seedlings. Record the number of seeds that have germinated. You can measure
the seedling growth each day to see which plants are growing the fastest or just after 1-2 weeks to compare the healthiest seedlings. This can
include the height of the seedlings but also the number of leaves and observations on plant health such as signs of disease, colour, damage
etc. Record these results and then continue to monitor for up to 4 months until a mature plant has grown. Measure the height of each mature
plant and compare on a class leader board. You can also record the dry weight of the entire plant at the end of the experiment after drying in a
105oC oven for 24 hours.
The plants grown in the compost should be among the tallest plants; however, healthy plants also need to have thick strong stalks and large
leaves in good condition and the size of the flower head will be affected as well. You may need to stake plants as they grow tall so that they do
not snap during the research.
Each pupil can create a graph showing germination rates and plant growth over time for the different treatments. They can also find the mean
number of seeds germinated and mean size or mass of the plants at the end of the experiment using all the pots from the class. Compare
average germination rates, plant growth and health for the different experimental treatments.
You may find that there are no differences between the treatments. If this is the case, it may be difficult to determine whether the compost
had no effect, or something went wrong. Discuss the interpretation of the results but try not to bias your predictions on the way experiments
will turn out; often unexpected results lead to important insights and questions. An unexpected result may be because your compost is of poor
quality or the plant species you chose grows well in poor soils. Explore all the possibilities for explaining your results with an open mind,
through discussions and new experiments.
You can also carry out this activity using diluted worm juice or compost tea compared against plain soil from the school garden. Worm juice is
the liquid extracted from a wormery. It can act as a liquid fertiliser enhancing your plants growth but it is potent so must be diluted before it’s
used on houseplants. Dilute it at least ten parts water to one part worm juice. Compost tea is when you take a generous handful of worm
castings, add it to a watering can, stir it through, and then use straight away on your bedding plants. Worm castings are essentially worm
manure and become compost. They are full of nutrients and minerals.
Sunflower compost challenge P5-P7
Worksheets:
What we will do:
We will add a small amount of
and
to the soil of one of the two pots, add three
and put it in the sunlight. We will leave our seeds for 1-2 weeks.
It will be fair because we will keep these things the same:
2.
1.
3.
4.
and only change
What we put in the pot
Soil
Compost enriched soil
What we found out
What we expect to happen
What did happen
Sunflower compost challenge P5-P7
Label the parts of the seedling and plant
1.
Sunflower compost challenge P5-P7
Seedling growth: No. of days since planted seeds:
Observation
Soil only pots
Compost enriched soil pots
Height of seedling
No. of leaves
Any signs of disease or damage
observed
Mature Sunflower growth: No. of days since planted seeds:
Observation
Height of plant
No. of leaves
Size of leaves (length x width)
Size of flower head (diameter of
flower)
Any signs of disease or damage
observed
Soil only pots
Compost enriched soil pots
Sunflower compost challenge P5-P7
Draw a graph showing the results of the experiment:
What should you have on
the X axis? What should
you have on the Y axis? Is
this a good way of showing
the results of plant growth?
Sunflower compost challenge P5-P7
Worksheets:
What we will do:
We will add a small amount of
and
WATER
COMPOST
to the soil of one of the two pots, add
THREE SUNFLOWER SEEDS
and put it in the sunlight. We will leave our seeds for 1-2 weeks.
It will be fair because we will keep these things the same:
1.
WATER/ MOISTURE
2.
LIGHT
3.
TEMPERATURE
4. NUMBER OF SEEDS
and only change GROWTH MEDIUM (SOIL AND COMPOST)
What we put in the pot
Soil
Compost enriched soil
What we expect to happen
What did happen
These plants will be shorter with thinner
stalks and less leaves. They may also be a
paler green colour. These plants will be
growing at a slower rate.
What do the groups plants look like from the
plain soil pot? What do the plants from the
classes plain soil pots look like?
These plants will be healthier showing less
signs of damage or disease. They will be taller
with thicker stems and larger leaves. They will
be a darker green colour. They should have
more leaves than those grown in just soil.
What do the groups plants look like from the
compost enriched soil pot? What do the
plants from the classes compost enriched soil
pots look like?
What we found out COMPOST ENHANCES THE GROWTH OF PLANTS. IT HELPS PLANTS GROW TALLER AND HEALTHIER.
Sunflower compost challenge P5-P7
Label the parts of the seedling and plant
PETALS
SEEDLING
STALK/ STEM
SEEDS
LEAVES
SEED
STALK/ STEM
ROOT
1.
ROOTS
Sunflower compost challenge P5-P7
Seedling growth: No. of days since planted seeds:
Observation
Soil only pots
Compost enriched soil pots
cm
cm
count
count
Holes in leaves, dry edges, discolouration, loss of
leaves?
Holes in leaves, dry edges, discolouration, loss
of leaves?
Height of seedling
No. of leaves
Any signs of disease or damage
observed
Mature Sunflower growth: No. of days since planted seeds:
Observation
Soil only pots
Compost enriched soil pots
cm
cm
count
count
Size of leaves (length x width)
cm2
cm2
Size of flower head (diameter of
flower)
Any signs of disease or damage
observed
cm
cm
Holes in leaves, dry edges, discolouration, loss of
leaves?
Holes in leaves, dry edges, discolouration, loss
of leaves?
Height of plant
No. of leaves
Sunflower compost challenge P5-P7
Height of Sunflower (cm)
Draw a graph showing the results of the experiment:
Number of days (time)