Preferred Cotton Matrix
Chemical/ Chemically
Intensive (Conventional)
Bayer e3
BCI
Objective
To grow high quality fiber and to
To create a more sustainable American
To transform the market by making
maximize fiber yield per hectare, and
landscape.
Better Cotton a sustainable mainstream
therefore the profitability of the farmer.
commodity.
Overview
Conventional cotton has historic
e3™ is Bayer CropScience’s more
high pesticide use. In general,
sustainable cotton option. It is grown in
GMOs have reduced insecticide use
the USA with care by cotton producers
but increased herbicide use. Also,
striving to improve their sustainability
resistance is developing leading to
in production of the highest-quality
a rise in chemical use. Petroleum
upland cotton for apparel and home
based fertilizers are utilized widely to
furnishings.
boost production, as are fungicides,
insecticides, growth regulators, and
defoliants. Water is also an issue with
high irrigation and impacts on toxicity
of ground and aquifers.
Producing Countries (2014/15 unless otherwise stated)
Manufacturing Process
Over 100 cotton-producing countries
worldwide - top 10 (2015/16)
are India, China, USA, Pakistan,
Brazil, Uzbekistan, Turkey, Australia,
Turkmenistan, Burkina Faso
USA
N/A
N/A
N/A
BCI sets out to improve the
sustainability of mainstream cotton
production. Growers must meet
minimum environmental and social
requirements for their cotton to
qualify as Better Cotton. Continuous
improvement is a key element of the
Assurance Programme.
Cleaner Cotton
CmiA
Fairtrade
Organic Production
Organic OCS
Organic GOTS
REEL
Cleaning Up Cotton In California.
Sustainable African Cotton for a global
Textile Industry.
To make trade fair, empower small
scale producers and workers and to
foster sustainable livelihoods.
Sustaining the health of soils,
ecosystems and people.
Third party assurance on organic
product claims.
Third party assurance on organic
product claims, including environment
and social responsibility in processing.
To create more sustainable, traceable
cotton.
The Sustainable Cotton Project works
Cotton made in Africa is an initiative
with Californian cotton growers
of the Aid by Trade Foundation (AbTF)
to reduce the harmful impacts of
that helps African smallholder cotton
pesticide use from cotton production
farmers to improve their living
on the air, water and soil in the region
conditions. Growers must meet
and to market the cotton they grow in
minimum environmental and social
the project as Cleaner Cotton™.
requirements for their cotton to qualify
as CmiA.
Fairtrade changes the way trade works
Organic cotton is grown within a
The Organic Content Standard (OCS)
The Global Organic Textile Standard The REEL Cotton Programme is a 3-year
through better prices, decent working rotation system that builds soil fertility,
is a chain of custody standard that
(GOTS) is recognized as the world’s
modular program for farmers with
conditions and a fairer deal for farmers.
protects biodiversity, and is grown
provides companies with a tool to
leading processing standard for textiles Sustainable Agricultural Practices (SAP)
The Fairtrade standards require farmers
without the use of any synthetic
verify that one or more specific input
made from organic fibers. It defines
at its core. It has four key focus areas:
to organize in democratic producer
chemicals or GMOs. Growers must
material is in a final product. It requires high-level environmental criteria along
- Agronomic training
organizations and environmentally
meet organic agricultural standards as
that each organization along the
the entire organic textiles supply chain
- Social mobility and engagement
sound agricultural practices. It ensures set nationally, and by the importing
supply chain take sufficient steps to
and requires compliance with social
- Supply chain verification
the Fairtrade Minimum Price and
country if export is carried out.
ensure that the integrity and identity of
criteria as well.
- Brand reputation
Fairtrade Premium.
Definition:
the input material is preserved.
http://www.ifoam.bio/en/organiclandmarks/definition-organicagriculture
China, India, Pakistan, Tajikistan,
Turkey, Israel, Mali, Mozambique,
Senegal, USA - PLUS Benchmarked
standards in and additional 12
countries
USA - California
Cote d’Ivoire, Ghana, Cameroon,
Zambia, Zimbabwe, Mozambique,
Malawi, Tanzania, Uganda, Ethiopia
India, Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, Burkina
Faso, Mali, Benin, Senegal, Uganda,
Egypt
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
26,120,000
113,398
2,600,000 (2015)
600
91.39%
0.43%
11.89% (2015)
India, China, Turkey, Kyrgyzstan, Egypt, 48 Countries with Certified units - top 68 Countries with certified units - top
USA, Tanzania, Burkina Faso, Tajikistan,
10 are: India, Bangladesh, China,
10 are: India,
Uganda, Peru, Mail, Benin, Ethiopia, Turkey, Korea (South), Japan, Pakistan, Turkey, Germany, Bangladesh, China,
Brazil, Israel, Senegal, Madagascar,
Sri Lanka, Germany
Pakistan, Italy, Portugal, Korea (South),
Colombia
Japan
Evrnu
Re:newcell
Recover®
TENCEL® made using cotton
waste
Regenerating cotton waste to create To develop sustainable textile recycling
To help facilitate Closed-Loop
To drive circular economy solutions in
premium, renewable fiber for apparel, processes to more efficiently use the manufacture and a zero-waste industry.
the textile industry.
home and industrial applications.
resources we have today.
Evrnu purifies cotton garment waste,
re:newcell’s textile recycling
Recover® produces Mechanically
converts it to a pulp, and extrudes it technology transforms a high cellulosic
Recycled Cotton Yarns. Recover® is
as a pristine new fiber for the creation portion fabric into high quality recycled known for offering the finest gauges,
of premium textiles. Their process can dissolving pulp. The process does not
consistent quality, and precise color
create engineered fibers with a wide
require any environmentally harmful
control. Recover® cotton is blended
range deniers, shapes, and properties.
chemicals, and the
into accurate colors lot to lot without
The Evrnu process creates very little
re:newcell pulp can be fed into the
any dyestuffs applied to cotton fiber.
negative environmental impact.
commercial textile production chain.
Recently published LCAs indicate
Pre-commercial bench scale -prototype
Pre-commercial bench scale
significant water, energy, chemical and
garments produced.
concept proven - operational from
CO2 savings.
2017.
Worn Again
To provide the recycling technology
to enable the textile industry to go
circular.
A new lyocell fiber that combines
cotton waste recycling with Lenzing’s
pioneering closed-loop TENCEL®
production on a commercial scale.
Worn Again has developed a chemical
textile-to-textile recycling technology
to separate and recapture polyester
and cellulose from cotton from end of
use textiles to be reintroduced into the
supply chain as new, virgin equivalent
raw materials.
Pre-commercial bench scale - concept
in development.
China, India, Pakistan, Peru
USA
Sweden
Spain
Austria
HQ: London, UK
Chemical post consumer cotton
recycling.
Chemical cellulosic recycling.
Chemical cotton recycling.
TBD (R&D stage)
Kristinehamn, Sweden
Mechanical cotton recycling, blending
and spinning yarns.
Banyeres Di Mariola, Alicante Spain
Austria
Chemical polyester & cellulose
recycling.
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
341,536
15,021
112,488
No data
No data
53,917
R&D scale
TBD (pre-commercial)
No data
No data
No data
0.002%
1.31%
0.06%
0.43%
No data
No data
0.21%
TBD (pre-commercial)
TBD (pre-commercial)
No data
No data
No data
Manufacturing Location
Fiber Production 2014/15 (MT)
Market Share of Total Cotton Grown (2014/15)
Growth in production (2013/14 - 2014/15)
Projected growth in production
5% decrease
1.5% increase
56.6% increase (2015)
0.2% increase
125% increase
4% decrease
3.8% decrease
No data
No data
26% increase
TBD (pre-commercial)
TBD (pre-commercial)
30%
No data
No data
Currently in decline
Projected increase
Target to account for 30% total cotton
by 2020
Projected increase
Projected increase
Projected increase
Projected to increase (85,671 ha inconversion 2015/16-2017/18)
No data
No data
Projected increase
TBD (pre-commercial)
>100% over next 18 months
Follow the market (up to several
thousand tons)
No data
Yield (see accompanying “TE Position” notes)
699kg/ha global avg. (ICAC 2016)
No data
No numeric data. Yield addressed in
the standard.
748 kg/ha avg.
Claim of 20% avg. yield increase
Claims 16% avg. yield increase among
REEL farmers compared to control.
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
50-70% irrigated
Combination
Combination
100% irrigated
100% rainfed
Yield increases recorded. Dependent
on rainfall as most Fairtrade cotton is
rainfed.
Commercial manufacturing line under
construction - 7000 ton capacity in
2017
Mostly irrigated
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
Competition for limited water
resources is one of the most critical
issues faced by irrigated agriculture
(Cotton Inc.)
Aims to reduce irrigation water use.
A principle of Better Cotton is to use
water efficiently and care for the
availability of water.
Some cotton grown on drip irrigation.
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
Rainfed/ Irrigated
Water Management
Predominantly rainfed
(75% in 2015)
Claim of yield increases recorded in West Africa, India, Tajikistan and others. Dependent on rainfall in rainfed areas,
alongside availability of other resources such as training. In-conversion farmers sometimes report a decline as soils
stabilize to non-chemical conditions.
75-80% rainfed
CmiA farmers practice rainfed
Promotes efficient and sustainable use Common Objectives and Requirements of Organic Standards (COROS): 1.2 Resource Management Organic management Promotes water efficiency. Claims 16%
agriculture exclusively. This means they
of water resources.
ensures that water resources are used sustainably.
avg. reduction in water use.
do not use any artificial irrigation.
Soil fertility
Addressed through use of petroleumbased fertilizers. No or low tillage
practices also utilized in some areas,
but this leads to increased herbicide
use to manage inter crops.
No specific criteria on soil fertility.
Activity is assessed on various factors
including land use and soil carbon.
The concept is to improve one’s
performance on these parameters.
Soil health addressed in standard.
Management practices address
erosion, soil and water contamination
and enhancement of soil fertility.
Compost and cover crops encouraged
to maintain soil health and
productivity.
Farmers receive training to improve
agricultural practices, particularly soil
and water conservation. Composting
and manure are encouraged whilst
crop rotation is mandatory.
Encourages improvement of soil
fertility through composting, crop
rotation & intercropping, and
reduction/ prevention of soil erosion.
Soil fertility is key to the success of organic cotton and farmers report increases in organic matter (OM). Soil fertility
challenges vary from region to region. Studies by FiBL, FAO and Rodale Institute show soil fertility increases on organic
farms.
Common Objectives and Requirements of Organic Standards (COROS): 4.2 Soil Conservation and Crop Rotation, 4.3
Management of soil fertility.
Promotes soil health and nutrient
management through crop rotation
and composting.
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
Biodiversity
Primarily a mono-crop culture
No specific criteria on biodiversity.
Activity is assessed on various factors
including conservation. The concept is
to improve one’s performance on these
various parameters.
Practices to enhance biodiversity on
site are encouraged. Biodiversity is
addressed in the standard but no
specific criteria.
Promotes farming systems that
increase beneficial insect habitat and
survival.
Destruction of primary forest (or
other designated resources protected
by national or international law) for
the purpose of cotton production is
prohibited.
Common Objectives and Requirements of Organic Standards (COROS): 1.1 Ecosystem Management: Organic
management maintains or enhances biodiversity in crop and non-crop habitats on the farm holding.
FAO and FiBL studies alongside others show increased biodiversity on organic farms.
Promotes biodiversity conservation.
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
Yes - over 80% globally and estimated
at over 90% in the USA and India
Yes
Yes
Yes, but sold separately from non-GMO
No
Ensures no negative impact on
protected and HCV areas and must
comply to national legislation on
agricultural land use and carry out
activities to protect and enhance
biodiversity.
No
Yes
No use of hazardous pesticides.
There are slight variations between the different organic standards regarding the exact pesticides authorized and their
conditions of use.
REEL farmers are trained in pest
management and reduction of harmful
chemical use. Training is provided on
organic pesticides e.g. neem spray.
Claims 43% avg. reduction in chemical
pesticide use among REEL farmers.
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
Common Objectives and Requirements of Organic Standards (COROS):
Organic soil fertility management does not use synthetic fertilizers or fertilizers made soluble by chemical methods, e.g.
superphosphates.
Organic crop production does not use sodium (chilean) nitrate. Organic soil fertility management uses only crop fertility
substances that are on (a) list(s) referenced by the standard. Such lists are based on lists and/or criteria in international
organic standards.
REEL farmers trained on crop rotation,
composting and reduction in use
of chemical fertilizers. Claims 20%
reduction in chemical fertilizer use
among REEL farmers.
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
Yes - PE International (2014b)
No
No
No
Yes - F.A. Esteve-Turrillas and M. de la
Guardia (2016)
No
No
Zero water consumption
No data
No data
GMOs Permitted?
Use of Hazardous Pesticides
Use of Synthetic Fertilizer
Permitted
Pesticide use is not a parameter
assessed in the e3 methodology.
However, IPM is encouraged and
precision application and variable
rate technology is also promoted. US
producers are held to US regulations
regarding pesticide use.
Permitted
Fertilizer use is not a parameter
assessed in the e3 methodology.
Yes - Cotton Inc. (2012)
No
Pesticides listed in Annex A and B
Disallows the use of the 11 most
Promotes bio-intensive IPPM and
Promotes IPM and organic practices.
of the Stockholm convention are
toxic chemicals* used in cotton in
excludes pesticides banned under the Prohibited Materials List is divided in
forbidden.
California - unless pests threaten to
Stockholm Convention on Persistent
two: The Red List includes materials
Pesticides classified WHO 1a and 1b
cause economic loss, or other lowerOrganic Pollutants (POPs), the WHO
that are prohibited, whilst the Amber
and pesticides listed on annex III of
risk options are exhausted. IPM and list of highly hazardous and hazardous List includes materials that are under
the Rotterdam convention are to be biological alternatives encouraged. Up pesticides, and pesticides listed in the evaluation for inclusion in the Red List.
phased out based on the availability of to 50% reduction in chemical inputs
Rotterdam Convention
alternatives.
over conventional.
on PIC.
Potential for GMOs to enter supply chains through feedstock as a result of over 80% conventional cotton being genetically modified.
Soil health is addressed in standard
but no specific criteria.
Growers encouraged to adopt
biological methods to improve soil
quality.
Excessive use of fertilizers not an
issue in CmiA’s growing regions; IPM,
organic manure and compost pits
encouraged.
Red and amber list of PML (based on
POP, PIC, WHO, PAN 12)
No
No
No
Yes - PE International (2014a)
No
2,120
(LCA)
No LCA data
No LCA data
No LCA data
1
(~100% reduction - LCA)
No LCA data
182
(91% reduction - LCA)
No LCA data
Minimal - bench scale achieved tens of
gallons of direct water use/ kg fiber
TBD (pre-commercial)
15,000
(LCA)
No LCA data
No LCA data
No LCA data
No data
No LCA data
No LCA data
1440 (LCA)
No data
No data
No LCA data
No LCA data
No LCA data
1,037
(42% reduction - LCA)
No LCA data
978
(46% reduction - LCA)
No LCA data
Est. 4000 MJ/ton direct energy use and
11 GJ/ton embodied (bench scale).
TBD (pre-commercial)
1,800
(LCA)
5,800
(61% reduction - LCA)
Est. 900 kg CO2e/ton fiber. Commercial
impact TBD.
TBD (pre-commercial)
100 (LCA)
No data
No data
3.8
(LCA)
No LCA data
No LCA data
No LCA data
20.4
(436% increase - LCA)
No LCA data
2.8
(26% reduction - LCA)
No LCA data
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
Dependent upon geographic region.
US cotton growers are all held to high
standards by law for worker health and
safety.
Production must comply with labor
standards as set by the ILO.
US cotton growers are all held to high
standards by law for worker health and
safety.
Production must comply with labor
standards as set by the ILO. CmiA
standard includes farm as well as gin
level criteria. Social project investment
with AbTF and retail partners/ cotton
companies.
Stringent criteria on freedom from
discrimination, forced/ compulsory
labor, child labor, freedom of
association and collective bargaining.
Operators in the supply chain must
comply with ILO core conventions.
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
No
Self-evaluation and 3rd party audits.
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
Physical segregation farm to gin; mass
balance gin to retailer.
Self-assessment and 3rd party
certification on field and gin level.
N/A
CoC to the mill (for further content
claims use).
2nd party
monitoring.
Certification by 3rd party.
Not in every geographic area.
Self-Assessment, 2nd Party and 3rd
Party Verification.
re:newcell does not work with any
chemicals on the TE, GOTS or REACH
prohibited chemical list.
GRS
RCS
No data
Various schemes are available for
“100% cotton” products.
No data
On-product Claims Framework.
Intends to use tracers in fiber to ensure
supply chain tracking and ease endof-life identification of garments for
subsequent recycling. Designing
for disassembly will also be a critical
component.
TBD (pre-commercial)
TBD (pre-commercial)
In store and on product marketing
No data
No data
Consumer messaging began in 2015.
Yes, consumer messaging via products
and website.
13% awareness among German
consumers (measured Aug 2016).
Fairtrade mark widely understood and
trusted by consumers.
TBD (pre-commercial)
Primarily B2B but in-store marketing.
Livelihoods
Commodity prices based upon market
conditions.
e3 farmers are paid a small per bale
incentive to reinvest in sustainable
improvement practices.
A modest price differential is paid
directly to the farmer.
Historically, cotton prices fall below
the cost of production, which has led
to subsidies in some countries and
extreme poverty in others.
No price differential for farmers
but the volume-based fee paid by
brands/retailers is reinvested in the
Foundation’s activities.
Farmers paid FT Minimum Price.
Communities benefit from FT
Premiums - spending decided
democratically by cooperatives.
N/A
Cost implications/ impacts
No price differential for farmers but
incomes expected to improve. Volumebased fees feed into farmer capacity
building programs.
Large B2B recognition and growing
consumer awareness. Will launch in
retail in 2017.
TBD (pre-commercial - due to reach
market in SS 2017)
LCA available?
Water Consumption (m3/ 1000kg fiber*) or best
practices used to conserve water
Primary Energy Demand MJ /1000 kg fiber *
Global Warming (kg of CO2-eq/ 1000kg fiber*)
Eutrophication (kg of phosphate-eq/1000 kg fiber *)
Social considerations/regulations
Verification / Certification (farm level)
Chain of Custody (supply chain)
Product marketing/labeling
Consumer recognition
Quality perception/ implications
Website
The Cotton Inc. Cotton Seal has
consumer recognition in the US
Market.
Small price differential paid to farmers,
No price differential at point of
negotiated with individual brand/
sourcing but membership and volumeretailer.
based fees apply.
Bale identification system - USDA bar
code on each bale.
Verification (annual); certification by 3rd party.
Mass Balance from spinning mill
onward (hard identity from field to
spinning mill); full traceability possible
through Hard Identity Preserved
(option).
Two models: (1) Classic - physically
segregated and traceable, (2) Mass
balance - physically traceable until
spinner; CoC maintained through
supply chain via online tool.
Identity Preserved; Certification of Supply Chain.
Marketed and trademarked as Cleaner In store marketing/ on product labeling
Cotton™.
(own label or CmiA hangtag).
On product and In store marketing.
Third party certified (Fairtrade Mark).
In store marketing/ on product label.
3rd party certification label optional.
Price differential paid to farmer.
No membership fee but retailers/
brands pay a volume-based fee and
spinning mills pay a small annual
registration fee.
Price differential (Fairtrade Minimum
Price). Buyers also pay Fairtrade
Premium for community investment.
No known quality implications.
No known quality implications.
No known quality implications.
No known quality implications.
Historical perceptions of quality being
an issue - but not so much these days.
Historical perceptions of quality being
an issue - but not so much these days.
www.cottoninc.com
www.icac.org
www.e3cotton.us
www.bettercotton.org
www.sustainablecotton.org/pages/
show/cleaner-cotton-tm
www.cottonmadeinafrica.org
www.fairtrade.org.uk/en/buyingfairtrade/cotton
NOTE: This is a live document. If you have additional information to contribute please send to Lisa Emberson ([email protected]).
To qualify as organic, production must OCS does not address social aspects of
Minimum social criteria for GOTS
Provides training to produce cotton
comply with labor standards as set by production beyond the integrity of the
is based on the key norms of the
with respect for Human Rights
the ILO.
organic material. However, to qualify as ILO, which must be met by all GOTS
principles for decent working
organic, production must comply with certified processors and manufacturers. conditions: no child labor, application
labor standards as set by the ILO.
of health and safety principles,
gender inclusion. Focus on women
empowerment.
Developed and verified by Flo-Cert (3rd
party).
Bale preserved - procurement links to
supply chain provided
if required.
In store and on product marketing.
Concept of organic widely understood, trusted and respected by consumers.
Primarily B2B but in-store marketing.
A price differential/sustainable price (i.e. meeting the cost of production and of ecosystem value addition) is expected to
REEL farmers receive training to
occur via market mechanisms and producer group policy, but is not a requirement of the standard. Optional/ partnership improve yields and profits. Claims 41%
investment via NGOs, corporate investment, and PG investment goes back into the community.
avg. increase in profit compared to
control farmers.
N/A
TBD (pre-commercial - due to reach
market in SS 2017)
Primarily B2B. Works closely with
development partners.
N/A
N/A
N/A
Price differential paid to farmer/producer group.
Brand/ retailer pays for service.
TBD (pre-commercial)
Cost competitive to conventional
MMCF.
Cost absorbed / Co-op promo concepts.
TBD (pre-commercial - due to reach
market in SS 2017)
Goal to be competitive with virgin.
Historical perceptions of quality being an issue - but not so much these days.
No known quality implications.
Can yield higher quality fibers from
low quality cotton input, with custom
length, composition, and shape.
Physical characteristics are equal or
higher than fibers made from virgin
material.
No known quality implications. Some
limitations in color variety due to
mechanical recycling.
Physical characteristics claimed to be
the same as standard TENCEL®.
Goal to be comparable to virgin
specifications.
http://www.lenzing.com/
www.wornagain.info
www.textileexchange.org/organiccotton-round-table
www.textileexchange.org/integrity
www.global-standard.org
www.cottonconnect.org
http://www.evrnu.com
www.renewcell.se
www.recovertex.com
Textile Exchange Preferred Cotton Matrix © 2016 ••www.TextileExchange.org
We envision a global textile industry that protects and restores the environment and enhances lives.