Lochmaddy
This is the main town and ferry terminal for the island. It is thought to take its
name from the two large basalt stacks that rise sharply up out of the sea at its
entrance locally known as “The Maddies”
Some say “Maddies” mean “The Watchdogs” creatures they somewhat
resemble if you have a vivid imagination. There is also another theory that the
town’s name comes from the large black or pearl mussels called “maddies”
which grow especially large locally.
In former years fishermen divided the sea loch into two parts calling the
southern section Lochmaddy or “Loch of the Maddies” and the northern part
Loch Partan or “Loch of the Crabs” for which it was then noted.
North Uist has been famed for fish and shellfish and one historian recorded in
1695 that “four hundred sail had been loaded with Herring taken in Lochmaddy
in one season” Today there are only a few small boats working out of the “wee
pier” catching prawns, langoustines, lobsters, scallop’s and both brown and
velvet crabs.
More fishing boats work out of Berneray and Griminish on the west side but the
heart of the islands fishing industry is located at Kallin harbour on Grimsay
where there is a large shellfish co-operative.
Lochmaddy although small is the main business centre of the island. It has the
main Caledonian MacBrayne ferry terminal and office as well as having several
new floating pontoons in a small marina for visiting yachts. It has a Primary
School, Bank of Scotland, Post Office, Auction Mart, Police and Fire Stations,
Court House, Tourist information Centre, D.R McLeod’s Haulage Depot
Morrison’s Petrol Station and Supermarket, The Lochmaddy Hotel, Hammersay
House Hotel and restaurant, North Uist Estates Office, Uist Outdoor Centre, a
gift shop and Taigh Chearsabhagh Arts Centre with Café.
Only a short walk from the “wee pier” is the turf roofed Both nam Faileas or
“Hut of the Shadows” which contains a camera obscura, which once your eyes
adjust to the dark reflects an image of Lochmaddy onto the inside wall.
Sponish
Sponish about a mile north of Lochmaddy is the site of a former Alginates
factory where seaweed was once processed.
Today Maciains at Crogarry Beag quarry close to where the Berneray road
meets the main island ring road have started to process seaweed with the
installation of a large modern plant.
Ruchdi
Half a mile down the Berneray road, and on the left hand side is a large white
house. This was the family home of the late Lord Dunrossil’s. W.S.Morrison or
Lord Dunrossil was for many years Speaker of the House of Commons, and
when he retired was made Governor General of Australia. He took his title from
a hill in the vicinity of his old home “Dun Rossil” which was the site of an
ancient fort.
Dun an Sticir
This ancient Dun or Fort is situated in a shallow loch not far from the Berneray
causeway. It is reputed to be the last inhabited Dun in North Uist and was last
inhabited by a certain Hugh Macdonald son of Archibald the Clerk in 1602, a
descendent of Macdonald of Sleat. He laid claim to a part of North Uist and
took refuge in the Fort to defend himself against the real heir. He was, however
betrayed and captured then taken to Skye and imprisoned in Duntulm Castle
where he was fed on salt beef until he died of thirst.
Scolpaig
On an islet in Loch Scolpaig is a tower called “Dun Scolpaig” It is actually a
“Georgian Folley” erected by Dr Alexander Mcleod, who was Chamberlain to
the Macdonald Estates.
Griminish Point a short walk from Scolpaig farm is the nearest point on North
Uist to St.Kilda situated some 38 miles to the west. It is also noted for a large
collapsed sea cavern, natural arches and rugged coastline. “Cnoc an Litich” or
Leithman’s Knoll is a small hillock not far from the bay under which is
purported to be a cave where smugglers once hid contraband.
Griminish
This is where the Fifth Earl Granville decided to make a break from the
ancestral ties of Staffordshire and in 1960 build an extraordinary fourteenbedroom roundhouse where the current Laird Fergus lives. There is also a small
harbor at Griminish used by local fishermen and the traditional thatched cottage
used by Monty Halls for the BBC documentary series “Monty Halls’ Great
Hebridean Escape” is also located nearby.
Eilean Dòmhnuill is probably the earliest crannog in Scotland dating from
around 3200BC it is located in Loch Olabhat. There is also an old village
located at Foshigarry on Beinn Scolpaig.
Kilphedar
Located between Balmartin and Scolpaig on the southern face of a hillock
opposite Balelone is the site of Cill-Pheadair or Kilpheadair. It is the site of a
former chapel and its covered burial ground was once exposed while ploughing
a field. The Latin cross at “An Dotair Ban” was relocated from here.
Hosta
Hosta is where the annual agricultural show is held. Nearby is one of the best
beaches on the island “Traigh Stir” although be very careful when swimming,
as there is a strong undertow.
Clachan Sands
In the burial ground lie the remains of a pre Reformation Church dedicated to
Saint Columba. Here are also two of the best and most accessible beeches in
North Uist. This is also a good area for picnics and camping.
Sollas
Sollas was the scene of the evictions or “Highland Clearances” where people
were forcibly removed from their crofts in order to make way for sheep farms
for the greedy landlords. In 1849, 603 inhabitants were forcibly cleared by the
then Lord (4th Baron) MacDonald. The women of Sollas played a large part in
the rioting pelting the police with rocks.
Dunskellar
This was the scene of the last sword duel to be fort in North Uist. The
combatants were Ewen Macdonald of Vallay and Macleod of Harris. The
referee was Colin Macdonald of Boisdale, who declared Ewen Macdonald the
winner.
Vallay
Vallay is a tidal island lying opposite Sollas. Here stands the mansion house
built by Erskine Beveridge author of “Archaeology and Topography of North
Uist” Its North coast has some beautiful unspoilt beaches and it has an
abundance of wildlife and wading birds.
Baleshare
This is a fertile tidal island and connected to the mainland by a causeway and its
name means “East Township” At one time there was a “West Township” but it
was engulfed by the sea at the same time as Pabbay and Monach Sound were
enlarged. There is also an ancient ecclesiastical building on the island called
“Christ’s Temple” In 2005 storms exposed the remains of several roundhouses.
The Monach Islands or Heisgeir
Boat trips can be arranged to these islands. They are a National Nature reserve
and in October they become home to the largest breeding colony of Atlantic
Grey Seals in the UK where over 10,000 females come ashore to give birth
annually. In summer the island abounds with birds and the machair is rich with
wild flowers. At one time the islands supported more than 100 people and the
last two families left in 1942.
Chlachan
Chlachan is reputed to be the birthplace of Edward Burke, Prince Charlie’s
faithful servant throughout his wanderings in the Outer Hebrides after Culloden.
It is also the location of the Hebridean Smokehouse an island enterprise run by
Fergus the current Earl Granville which is famous for its peat smoked salmon
that is sent all around the world.
Fir Bhreige Standing Stones
Three Neolithic standing stones located on the northwest slope of Blashaval
Langass Barp
This chambered cairn lies on the slopes of Ben Langass and is easily accessible
from the main Lochmaddy-Carinish road. It is thought to be from the Neolithic
Age and been the tomb of a famous warrior.
Langass woodland and nature trail
There is a wooden statute of “Hercules the Bear” and also a forest trail here for
children. Hercules was a famous performing bear that escaped while touring in
the Hebrides. He was loose on the island for some weeks before being
eventually recaptured.
Pobull Fhin
This is the most conspicuous stone circle in North Uist and is situated on Ben
Langass near Loch Langass. Nearby in the Langass Lodge Hotel probably the
premier dining experience in North Uist, it has a reputation for fine quality and
locally sourced meat, seafood and game.
Slochd a ‘Choire
Situated on the North side of Tigharry point is a natural rock arch and spouting
cave, locally known as the “Kettle Spout” or “Pit of Cauldron” During westerly
storms the Atlantic rollers break here with so much force that a spout sometimes
more than two hundred feet is formed. Local tradition adds a prophecy that one
day the sea arch will give way beneath the weight of a newly married couple.
Balranald House
This used to be the home of the MacDonald’s of Griminish, known
patronimically as Clann Dhomhnuill Hearach. They were the eldest cadet
family of the house of Sleat.
Balranald Nature Reserve
The reserve and visitor centre is close to the village of Hougharry. It is leased
by the RSPB and is a diverse yet rich habitat of croft land, Lochs and foreshore.
It is crofted by more traditional methods and is famous for rare bird species
such as Corncrake and Corn Bunting. Ard an Runair close by is the extreme
westerly point of North Uist and is the birthplace of the most famous of all the
Uist Bards, John MacCodrum.
Kilmuir Churchyard
South of Hougharry village is the graveyard of Kilmuir, Cill Mhoire or
St.Mary’s Church. Here is the last resting place of the Uist nobility. Many
interesting gravestones can be found here particularly in the older part of the
cemetery particularly interesting is the flat tombstone engraved with the
MacDonald Coat of Arms, which marks the grave of Hugh MacDonald of
Baleshare island, brother of Donald Roy MacDonald who made the
arrangements for Prince Charlie’s escape from Skye.
Aird a’ Mhorain and Udal Peninsula
This is a lovely peninsula to walk around starting from Grenitote where you can
see the remains of a prehistoric roundhouse that was excavated in the 1960’s
and also a cemetery that was used by the MacLean’s of Boreray. There is also a
small freshwater spring near the rocks on the foreshore below the high tide
mark
Cleatraval and the St.Kilda view point
Just below the road that climbs to the radar station on the top of Cleatraval is a
fine vantage point outwards to St.Kilda. There is an engraved plaque of local
landmarks that was unveiled a few years ago by local dignitaries.
Trinity Temple, Carinish
Carinish is a township at the south west extremity of North Uist noteworthy for
its two ancient chapels Trinity Temple founded in about 1203 which is the most
interesting building in North Uist and also MacVicar’s Temple a later
construction
Grimsay
The island is famous for boat building which is still carried out today in its
unique traditional style in the islands “Boat Shed” There is also a woollen mill,
a new enterprise formed to produce local woollens. Kallin is the main centre for
the islands shellfish industry and there is a large co-operative with holding tanks
for lobsters around the small harbour. Boat trips are also available on the Lady
Ann from Kallin harbour. Situated just offshore is the island of Ronay where
there once there stood a pre-reformation church.
Claddach Kirkibost Centre
This is an ideal place to stop for a cup of tea and some home baking. The café
has some wonderful views over the sands to Kirkibost Island. There is also
Internet available here.
Berneray
Only two miles by three Berneray boasts many natural attractions. The west
beach is a three mile unbroken swathe of silver shell sand facing the Atlantic.
There are fantastic opportunities for windsurfing. Behind the dunes is the
machair, which provides a beautiful habitat for wading birds and wild flowers.
There is also a Seal colony in Bays Loch on the east side. It is close to the road
and has an observation point. There is also a small museum and visitor centre in
the Nurses Cottage.