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The Cranberry Industry
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Native Americans had long harvested wild cranberries found growing
in numerous wetland bogs of South Jersey. They knew the berries to
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Cranberry Industry
Historical Overview
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be useful in making dyes and they also believed cranberries had
cleansing powers that successfully withdrew poison from arrow
wounds. The raw berries, having an astringent effect, were also used
to constrict blood vessels and reduce or stop bleeding when treating
arrow or other puncture wounds of the skin. In terms of their
edibility, some small amounts did probably get consumed in their raw
state, and some were cooked in maple syrup or were dried and
combined with meat to make pemmican that proved to be a useful,
non-perishable food in the long winter months between harvests.
Opinions differ as to the origin of the name cranberry. The more
commonly accepted explanation is that in the early stages of the
plant’s development, the cranberry flower resembles the head of a
crane, thus the name. Another theory suggests that the word comes
from the French canneberge or shore reed, the name given to it by French colonists in eastern Canada. New
Jersey settlers certainly knew of the cranberry, but most found the various species of cranberries growing in wild
bogs too tart for casual eating. The limited availability of suitable sweeteners necessary to make them more
palatable reduced their primary uses to making cooking sauces and jams for use as an accompaniment to venison
or wild turkey dinners at holiday tables. It was also known that consumption of cranberries in a seaman's diet
served as a helpful preventative to scurvy.
Earliest efforts to cultivate domestic cranberries occurred in the early 1800’s in Massachusetts in the vicinity of
Cape Cod. There, a local farmer and Revolutionary War veteran named Henry Hall observed that large amounts of
berries developed and ripened after winds and tides swept sand into existing bogs. But, beyond concluding that
the sand helped stifle weeds and promote vine growth, early Massachusetts growers had but vague
understandings of the requirements and soil conditions necessary for successful berry production in commercial
quantities.
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The first attempt to commercialize the industry in New Jersey
occurred in 1845 with the introduction of cranberry vines into
new or existing wild bogs. Numerous failures occurred, and
beyond recognizing that growing cranberries in New Jersey
presented a different set of problems than in Massachusetts, no
one locally really knew very much about what it would take to
produce a commercial cranberry harvest. After a series of minor
successes and many failures, a more earnest effort began in
1860. Part of the renewed activity came as a result of the
discoveries of George Cook who had determined that swamp
muck placed in the bogs was the best fertilizing agent for berry
production. Knowing from earlier efforts in Massachusetts that
sand played a crucial role, Cook successfully rooted young
plants in bogs that were layered with swamp muck and then
covered with 4-6” of sand. While the young plants rooted and
took hold, Cook’s observations also noted that considerable
harm was done to the plants by a variety of insects in warm
weather and by freezing in winter months. It was after these
observations were documented that water was introduced into
the bogs. The resultant controlled flooding served to kill millions
of harmful insects in the spring and protect young roots and
vines from freezing in the winter. So successful were some of
these experiments in the 1860s that Cook was able to report in
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his 1869 New Jersey state geology report that “already our
fields supply more than half of all raised in the United States.”
These were heady words for a new and yet unproven agricultural enterprise but evidence that cranberry
production was taking on new importance as scientific inquiry and record keeping progressed.
Cranberry Fever
In the cranberry industry, the years immediately following the Civil War have been characterized by a number of
writers as promoting "cranberry fever." Everyone, it seemed, believed they could reap large profits growing and
harvesting cranberries; yet few possessed not the foggiest notion as to what would be required. The New Jersey
Cranberry Growers' Association printed this letter
for its membership received from a New York farmer that
displays best intentions, a California gold rush mentality and widespread ignorance on every aspect of the
business including conditions and geographic areas necessary for successful production.
Cook was not alone in New Jersey in attempting to develop a successful cranberry industry. Local landowners
possessing large tracts of land in Burlington, Ocean and Atlantic Counties began cranberry production using
natural bogs or land excavations left by the now depleted iron ore reserves of a once prosperous local industry.
Among these landowners are names such as Braddock, Webb, Shreve and Budd. Their efforts are best
characterized as a mixed bag of small successes and bigger failures.
The early efforts of George Cook and others to promote
cranberry production were greatly expanded by J.A. Fenwick
and his son-in-law Joseph J. White, on land located near
Pemberton, New Jersey. Although Fenwick died before seeing
the final fruits of his labors, White’s subsequent research and
technical efforts directly impacted the evolution of the industry.
His research into soils and fertilizers necessary for successful
and profitable cranberry production built upon Cook’s earlier
efforts and proved that Pine Barrens' soil, long deemed too sour
for traditional agricultural pursuits, could be used successfully
for cranberry bogs. An example of his research is revealed in
his log book
for 1895 where he describes vine conditions and
crop yields in a number of bogs treated with different fertilizers
on the nearby Budd Farm in Pemberton. A farmer, businessman
and inventor, White’s work also carried beyond soils and
fertilizers. He understood the need for water management and
constructed dams and sluiceways to utilize the Pine Barrens'
watertable. Attention was also devoted to harvesting and
shipping of ripened berries. Although he didn't conceive the
idea, it was White that developed the still used method of berry
separation that rolls ripened fruit down inclined planes with built
in plateaus. Berries that were firm and at the height of
freshness reached the bottom; less desirable or overripe fruit
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that would quickly rot did not. Today, the system is still used to
separate the best fruit sold in its raw state in bags at
supermarket produce counters from the softer, overripe berries
that still have commercial value if cooked down and processed quickly into sauces and juices.
Many early growers, experiencing both failure and success, saw the need for an organization that could promote
scientific knowledge among growers, find and develop markets and promote standardization among packers and
shippers. These perceived needs led to the formation of the New Jersey Cranberry Growers' Association that in
turn became the American Cranberry Growers' Association. Both organizations in the late 19th century struggled
to recruit members and bring acceptance of scientifically based cranberry production needs. Fears of the more
successful growers that they would be surrendering competitive edge, loss of markets and private shipping labels
to competitors also worked to the disadvantage of both the state and national associations in these early years.
Despite the best efforts of Cook, Fenwick, White and others to promote sound agricultural practices, cranberry
production remained a risky business where many continued to fail. In 1880, Cook was still reporting on soil
composition properties in productive bogs at the New Jersey Cranberry Growers' Assciation annual meeting while
lamenting the continued level of ignorance within the industry as witnessed by the failed efforts of many cranberry
growers. See excerpts from Reports No. 1
and No. 2 . More than a decade later the newly formed American
Cranberry Growers' Association reprinted two briefer letters similar in tone to the New York farmer's plea for help.
Dear Sir-As I have bought a farm in New Jersey, Morris County, where considerable cranberries are grown,
will you please inform me where to buy the wooden utensils to pick the same from the plants, being unable
to find the tools in New York. Awaiting your agreeable reply, I remain,
Yours respectfully,
*************
A second communication from a competing Massachusetts cranberry grower stated "A gentleman from your
State was in my store a few days ago and made the statement that he never let the water off his bog until
the vines came into blossom; this seems to me an extraordinary statement, and being so entirely foreign to
our methods in this State, thought I would like information on the subject. If such is the practice in your
State, is there any advantage gained by it? Do you believe it possible that on a bog covered with one or
two feet of water that the vines can come into blossom, and that when the water is let off the berries will
form and grow?
24th Annual Convention, 1894. Official Proceedings.
American Cranberry Growers Association, p. 14
In response, the written record of the association proceedings spoofed the first inquiry humorously stating that “ it
would be necessary to determine whether his cranberries in Morris County grow on trees or vines before we can
advise him whether to purchase ladders or gum boots to gather them.” While an attempt at humor, it illustrated
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the wide-spread lack of knowledge that continually surrounded the propagation and harvesting of cranberries. In
an opposing mood, the second query was attributed to a misunder-standing as to what was meant by flooding
and taking off of water and suggested that membership in the American Cranberry Growers' Association would
help to alleviate such misunderstandings in the future. Finally, perhaps, written evidence that these cranberry
growers were realizing the need for development and dissemination of accurate scientific information
throughout the industry.
The 20th Century
The 20th century has brought great change to the New Jersey cranberry industry. Prior to World War I, large
numbers of pickers transported from Philadelphia harvested the ripened cranberries. By 1920, the industry was
beset by conflict over working conditions, sub-standard housing and pay. As transportation, housing and labor
costs rose in response to this conflict, the industry found itself unable to produce a cranberry harvest for profit.
Growers turned to wooden scoops resembling large wooden rakes. Pulled through the ripening berries, the scoops
greatly increased yields while reducing manpower needs but created sore backs among workers and significant
crop loss due to damage to berries and vines. Mechanical wet pickers were then introduced into the bogs and
again improved worker productivity and reduced but did not eliminate crop loss.
The 1950s saw the invention of the Darlington Mechanical Dry Harvester. Named for its inventor Tom Darlington,
a member of the White family and owner of the Whitesbog cranberry operation, this harvester produced a
superior product for dry packaging of whole berries in plastic bags. Wet harvesters continued in use for harvesting
of berries destined for juice or sauce manufacture with final distribution in cartons, bottles and cans.
Today, New Jersey cranberry growers still face economic challenges related to market consumption and
production costs. These growers, in cooperation with research efforts of the New Jersey Agriculture Experiment
Stations, the United States Department of Agriculture and their own cranberry associations and cooperatives,
have greatly expanded the database of knowledge related to the successful growing of the fruit. While the day of
the worker pulling a wooden hand scoop over cranberry vines is but a memory, cranberry production remains a
high risk business. New Jersey bogs located at the southern edge of the cranberry growing zones in the United
States present their own unique production problems. As we enter the 21st century, the commercial cranberry
industry in New Jersey has seen major shrinkage of acreage under cultivation due to higher costs. The application
of science and technology to cranberry production, often with equipment of local design and invention, have
allowed growers to fight the never ending battles of cost containment and weed and insect control while
improving water and bog management. Coupled with continued efforts to produce new cranberry products and
packaging and aggressive marketing through cooperatives, New Jersey continues to hold its No. 3 ranking
nationally behind Massachusetts and Wisconsin in total cranberry production.
Student Activities
1. Individually, or in small groups of 2-3 students, prepare a classroom presentation on cranberries in the
present day. Include parts a-b-c in your presentation.
a. The older image of cranberries is associated with cranberry sauce at Thanksgiving. Visit the grocery
store and find ten different products that list cranberries as one of the main ingredients. Report on your
discoveries to your classmates.
b. Present a brief oral report to your classmates detailing one cranberry product that you particularly like.
Be specific in describing its characteristics and reasons you like the item. Identify how it is consumed.
c. Ask a grandparent, friend or neighbor over 50 years of age if they ate cranberries or cranberry products
as a youngster? What form did it take and what do they remember most about its consumption?
2. Prepare a scrapbook of illustrative materials and articles on cranberries. Use newspapers and periodicals,
product labels, National Geographics, trade journals and possibly your own photographs or using a digital
camera and scanner, prepare a electronic scrapbook containing the same content.
3. Search Internet sites, periodical indexes and library database programs such as SIRS related to cranberry
associations and cranberry production. Prepare a written report on the present-day health of the cranberry
industry in the United States generally and New Jersey specifically. Some topics worthy of highlighting
include issues affecting supply and demand, agricultural production, government regulation, labor and
marketing costs and membership in cooperatives. Others may be added where pertinent.
4. Do some library-based research to determine what claims have been made as to the health benefits
associated with eating cranberries. Are they accepted by the medical community or viewed as examples of
medical quackery? Submit your findings in a written or oral report.
5. In a group setting, design an ad campaign to promote marketing of cranberries.
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