The Textile and Clothing Sector: Business Opportunities in Finland LIM/HAN Translation: Anna-Stina Sandfors The Textile and Clothing Sector: Business Opportunities in Finland General information Finland is an advanced industrial and open economy, placed among the most competitive in the world. The country’s GDP per capita is € 34.900. Lately Finland has experienced a rapid structural change towards an economy based on high technology, services and constant innovation. The structure of the different sectors is divided as follows: services 65.7%, manufacturing 31.4% and 2.9% of primary production. The major trade partners are other EU-members (Finland joined the EU in 1995). The Nordic countries – Sweden, Norway, Denmark and Finland – are considered to be an expansion to the domestic market. These four economies are integrated in a very concrete way through different merges of companies such as Nordea and Den Danske Bank (banking groups), Stora Enso (forestry) and TeliaSonera (telecommunications). Finland has a border, on the west with Sweden and Norway and on the east with Russia. Given its geographical location Finland experiences a climate with very marked seasons. Temperatures range from 30 degrees below zero in the winter to 30 above zero in the summer. The weather conditions also affect the textile industry. In 2008 approximately 39% of sold textile products were outdoor clothing. At the moment the total value of sales of clothing and home textiles is about 3.4 billion Euros. Much of the production has been transferred abroad, but the design and product development are still mostly being managed in Finland. The textile production in Finland is still mostly composed of small and medium enterprises. Finland has a population of about five million people, of whom about one million live in the metropolitan area of the capital Helsinki. Other large cities are Turku, Tampere, Jyväskylä, Kuopio and Oulu. The official languages are Finnish (91 %) and Swedish (5%). Due to the demographic trend (average age is about 40 years) most of the purchasing power consists of middle-aged people who are interested in fashion and quality. Women’s fashion is the biggest segment of the textile sector and it is expected to continue to grow. Home textiles are also on the rise due to the boom of decoration and interior design. The importance of electronic commerce is also growing. According to a survey made by FINATEX (Federation of the Finnish textile and clothing industry) 20 % of the respondents had purchased women’s clothing online and about 15 % had purchased children’s clothing online. It has been estimated that electronic commerce, within the textile industry, will increase to more than 1.4 million Euros in 2016. More information about the Finnish textile industry can be found on the webpage of FINATEX: http://www.finatex.fi/index.php 2 The Textile and Clothing Sector: Business Opportunities in Finland Export of textile and clothing (million Euros) 1985-2010 Textiles Clothing Source: Finatex/National Center of Statistics Export of textile and clothing (total 563 million Euros), 2011 EFTA 4% Great Britain 3% France 3% Spain 3% Netherlands 4% Other EU members 15 % Russia 21% Other european countries 1% United States. 5% China 2% Estonia 9% Sweden 9% Germany 14 % Source: Finatex/National Center of Statistics 3 Other countries 7% The Textile and Clothing Sector: Business Opportunities in Finland Import of textile and clothing (million Euros), 1985-2010 clothing textiles Source: Finatex/National Center of Statistics Import of textile and clothing (total 2 129 million Euros), 2011 EFTA 1% Other European Countries 1% Turky 6% China 33 % Other EU members 15 % Denmark 3% Italy 3% Estonia 4% Germany 9% Other Countries Sweden 10 % 7% Source: Finatex/National Center of Statistics 4 India 4% Bangladesh 5% The Textile and Clothing Sector: Business Opportunities in Finland Production of textiles and clothing in the EU (million Euros), 2010 Total 153 billion Euros Finland Bulgaria Greece Czech Republic Netherlands Romania Austria Poland Denmark Portugal Belgium Great Britain Spain Germany France Italy 821 1335 2106 2231 3073 3190 3435 4 249 3 950 6 361 6 610 8 406 10 046 19 951 22 533 49 661 Source: Finatex/National Center of Statistics Consumption of textile and clothing (million Euros) 1999-2010 Source: Finatex/National Center of Statistics European Union 5 The Textile and Clothing Sector: Business Opportunities in Finland The EU market is one very important trading partner of Vietnam. The agreement of the generalized System of Preferences (GSP +) allows producers in developing countries to have access to European markets through tariff reductions. The EU legislation consists of regulations and directives that are not directly applicable and must be incorporated into national legislation of the Member States. This means that export to a European country, like Finland, is not only subject to European legislation, but also national legislation. If there is interest in exporting to the European market, the requirements must be met both at an EU and at a national level. The Web service of the EU, Export Helpdesk (http://exporthelp.europa.eu/thdapp/index_en.html) serves as a point of information for exporting to the EU. At the website you can find information on the different requirements to be met, such as labeling, sanitary controls and standards etc. You can also find various statistics about products and trade between the EU and the rest of the world. Interested in Exporting? Planning: In addition to European and national legislation a potential exporter should also consider other special Finnish characteristics such as climate, quality standards and standardization. The more research and planning that is done beforehand the better the results will be. There are several organizations offering consulting services and support in finding potential business partners in Finland. Finnpartnership provides matchmaking services between companies in Finland and companies in developing countries. In addition to this Finpro trade centers that are located all over the world provide companies, that are interested in exportation, contact services and support services. To learn more please visit: http://www.finnpartnership.fi/www/en/matchmaking/index.php and http://www.finpro.fi/web/english-pages Finnish characteristics regarding textile 1. Climate: Clothing is our second skin with the function to keep us warm. The very cool climate of Finland really puts an emphasis on this and in Finland there really is a great demand for textile and extensive winter outerwear. This feature can be a great advantage for exporters of warm textile products. However, due to the heating in houses underwear and office still tend to be light. Textile products for winter must meet the requirements of the long and cold Finnish winter. For example, scarves, gloves, hats and sweaters must be made with dense fabric to withstand the cold and the piercing winds. The jackets and the winter coats have to keep heat in the 20 degrees below zero and coats with hoods and long sleeves are in high demand. The scarves that are designed for the winter market have to be wider and longer than those targeted for the summer collection. Keep in mind that the existing competition and that the price has to match the quality and the complicity of the design. 6 The Textile and Clothing Sector: Business Opportunities in Finland 2. Quality: Finns are accustomed to high technology and high quality. Therefore, export products must meet expectations, especially if the goal is to sell higher priced products. Regarding home textiles, Finns change their bedding frequently and are used to 100%cotton/satin/silk. They also like the colors to be different and to match the four different seasons. 3. Style: The product design must attract the relevant market and the manufacturers must take into account that the Finnish style can be very different compared to the manufacturing country. It is advisable to become familiar with the competitions in these markets. Manufacturers also have to estimate for who their products are. For high brand stores or for cheaper chains? For youth or for adults? 4. Size: The sizes of clothing or home textiles must correspond with Finnish sizes. Clothing sizes, for example, are slightly larger in size compared to Asia. Manufacturers should be aware that (especially with hats, gloves and belts) there is demand for larger sizes. Below you can find some size charts compiled from different sources. However they are only estimates and may vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. Sizes Finland, The Nordic 34 Countries, Germany 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 France, Spain 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 Italy 38/40 40/42 42/44 44/46 46/48 48/50 50/52 52/54 UK 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 USA 6/8 8/10 10/12 12/14 14/16 16/18 18720 20/22 Women: Size 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 Chest 80 84 88 92 96 100 104 110 116 122 128 Waist 64 68 72 76 80 84 88 94 100 106 112 Hip 88 92 96 100 108 112 118 124 130 136 7 The Textile and Clothing Sector: Business Opportunities in Finland Men: 48 46 Size 50 52 54 56 58 60 neck: 37-38 neck: 39neck: 41-42 40 neck:43-44 Chest 92-96 96-100 100-104 104-108 108 112-116 116-120 120 Waist 78-83 83-88 88-93 93-98 98 103-108 108-113 113 Hip 96 100 104 108 112 116 120 124 Crotch 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 neck: 45-46 neck: 47-48 Children: Age 2-4 4-6 6-9 9-12 1-1,5 months months months months years 1,5-2 years 3-4 years 4-5 years 6-7 years 8-9 years 10-11 years 11-12 years 13-14 years 14-15 years Height CM 62 68 74 80 86 90 100 110 120 130 140 150 160 170 Chest 46 47,5 49 50,5 52 54 57 60 64 67/68 70/72 76/78 81/83 85/87 Waist 48 49 50 51 52 53 55 56 58 59,5/61 62/64 66/68 69/71 72/74 Hip 53 54 55 56 57 58 61 64 68 72/71 76/75 82/81 87/86 91/90 Crotch 21 24 27 30 33,5 35 41,5 47,5 54,5 60 65 71,5 76 80,5 shoes and socks: Socks 17-18 19-21 22-24 25-27 28-30 31-33 8,5 8,5-9 9,5-10 10-11 11,5-12 Shoes 17-18 19-21 22-24 25-27 28-30 31-33 34-36 36-37 38-39 39-42 43-45 Size XXS XS S M L XL XXL outline CM 15,2 17,8 20,3 22,9 25,4 27,9 30,5 Gloves: 8 The Textile and Clothing Sector: Business Opportunities in Finland To enter the Finnish market The three largest retailers in the Finnish market for clothing and home textiles are S-Group (Department stores Sokos and Prisma hypermarkets), Kesko (Anttila department stores and hypermarkets and Kodin Ykkönen K-Citymarket) and Stockmann department stores. In addition to these the clothing market is dominated by Swedish chains H&M, Lindex and KappAhl and Finnish Halonen, Seppälä and Moda. Within home textiles the biggest names are Marimekko and Finlayson. All the major chains have strict store concepts and produce their own brands alongside the purchased collections. Hundreds of small shops in Finland provide an opportunity for small suppliers as their order quantities are not so big. The smaller stores probably only buy a few elements from a collection. For this reason, every product group should have several interesting alternatives to choose from, for example a collection of accessories with 20 pieces. Importing Agents and Companies Providers in developing countries can trade with their customers directly or through specialized agents or importing companies. Direct sales require regular visits which can be challenging if the distance between the two countries. There also a lot of work to be done in terms of finding a reseller and agree upon a method of cooperation. It is possible that a store only buys a few items, which will make the moving costs rise, so one would always have to evaluate the cost-benefit relationship. When working through an agent the manufacturer pays a specialized professional who resells finished products. Usually an agent requires at least 15 % of commission. Visit the website www.agenttiliitto.fi members of the Finnish Federation of Agents (classified by product). There can also be some challenges when working through an agent, for example compilation of bills can be difficult and expensive. In some cases a importing company can be the best and safest option. These companies would first select and buy a few articles for their stock and then sell them to their customers. The commission would be around 15% and the billing would be between the supplier and the importer. More information about international payment and its risks can be found at www.foreigntrade.com/reference/payment.cfm If you are interested in exhibiting products at tradeshows you should consider showing your collection at Finnish Catwalk which is for clothes (more information on www.finnishcatwalk.fi) or Habitare which is for home products (more information on www.habitare.fi). Usually agents and importing companies are involved in these fairs and travel Finland showing products to smaller stores. 9 The Textile and Clothing Sector: Business Opportunities in Finland Legislation of the textile sector The legislation allows all European consumers to receive safe products and adequate information. The product safety should always be checked before it enters the European market. This responsibility of importers is established in the legislation. The aim is to protect the consumers and therefore the providers must document their compliance with legal requirements. Lack of carefulness in risk avoidance may result in withdrawal from the market. Buyers also have the right to demand financial compensation if it can be shown that a defective product has caused damage. The EU has established a European surveillance network, RAPEX, to monitor the safety of commercial products. It is a system based on rapid exchange of information on products considered dangerous (except food, pharmaceuticals and medical devices). Exporters of textiles products to a EU member state should consider policies and chemical labeling. Products that are made out of at least 80 % of fibers (by weight) are considered textile products. Items that do not meet the requirements cannot be sold in the EU. More detailed information: www.ec.europa.eu/enterprise/textile 1) Labeling: Mandatory labeling of the Finnish textile sector includes fiber content, care instructions and manufacturers names. Besides country of origin, name and quantity of product, size and operating instruction requirements are voluntary. However, for example size is very useful and important information and should be added. Fiber content must be indicated by official names and the use of abbreviations is not allowed. Trade names can be used only as a supplement. The fiber content has to be indicated in Finnish and Swedish. You can find the official fiber names in Finnish, Swedish and English on www.finatex.fi/index.php?mid=7&pid=67 Care instructions must be expressed in words (Finnish and Swedish) or symbols. Symbols (except carpet symbols are licensed and authorized by SFS-Inspecta Oy Sertifiointi. The instructions should clearly indicate whether any part should be removed before the treatment process or if the product is colorfast. The name of the manufacturer is mandatory and the name of the brand of the garment is not always sufficient to compensate this information. 2) Chemicals: The REACH directive regulates registration, evaluation, authorization and restriction of Chemicals in order to protect human health and the environment. If production involves the use of chemicals it is necessary to study the EU regulation on chemicals and their safe use. http://ec.europa.eu/environment/chemicals/reach/reach_intro.htm In addition to this, Finland has a national legislation concerning textile products containing formaldehyde. You can find more information on www.cbi.eu 10 The Textile and Clothing Sector: Business Opportunities in Finland This document discusses the requirements of Finland. Please keep in mind that other countries may have different requirements. Doing Business with Finns Protocol and business customs: Request and schedule appointments in good time. Always arrive early for your appointments; being punctual is a sign of respect and efficiency. Present your argument with details since Finns usually do not ask much. To use e-mail as a means of communication is very common. Finnish society is built on a high level of integrity and ethics, which also reflects the corporate culture. The rate of corruption is very low and Finnish companies have a great interest in protecting their reputation. The Finns respect the transparency of production and usually want to know all the details of the procedure. Finnish partners are very specific to time and they value rules, quality, efficient negotiations, explicit conditions and compliance with the agreements. Delays in delivery or non-compliance with legislation may soon lead to the termination of cooperation. However, when Finnish companies find trusted partners with good prices, quality and ethics, the business relationship is usually long lasting. The Finns do not appreciate packages or documents that are done in an unprofessional manner. Products, invoices and packing lists should be marked with the same codes. All documents required by Finnish partners must be attached to invoices and shipments. Also the EU requirements for labeling and packaging should be met. More information on packaging requirements: http://europa.eu/legislation_summaries Fair Trade Certificates Finnish buyers are increasingly paying attention to the ethical conditions for the production of a product. For example in 2010 products with a Fair Trade certificate were sold for an estimated 93 million Euros worth, of which 7.2 million Euros came from cotton goods. Fair-trade makes up about 1 % of the market but sales of products of different ethical certification continues to grow year after year. It is advisable to consider the possibility of joining a fair-trade network when planning to enter the Finnish market. A certified product label always takes precedence over a non-certified product. 11 The Textile and Clothing Sector: Business Opportunities in Finland Retail value of fair-trade products in Finland 2003-2010 93 86,9 Million Euros 54,4 34,7 22,5 13,1 2010 2009 2008 2007 2006 2005 7,7 7,5 2004 2003 The Fair Trade certification, Called Reilu Kauppa in Finnish, is the best known in Finland. Fair trade incorporates environmental and social requirements for the products. Other ethical certifications in the Finnish market: Joutsenmerkki: http://www.ymparistomerkki.fi/english EU Eco label: http://ec.europa.eu/environment/ecolabel/ GOTS: http://www.global-standard.org/ Oeke-Tex: http://www.oeko-tex.com/OekoTex100_PUBLIC/index_portal.asp?cls=05 More information The Ministry of Foreign Affairs promotes import to Finland in accordance with the Development Policy Programme of the Finnish Administration and Trade Policy Program. This is done by taking appropriate measures to eliminate trade barriers and provide information services. The trading capacity of developing countries can be strengthened through the allocation of resources for development cooperation. The Ministry welcomes information about trade barriers observed by importers and exporters. 12 The Textile and Clothing Sector: Business Opportunities in Finland Useful websites Foreign Ministry: www.formin.finland.fi/tradepolicy Finnpartenership: www.finnpartnership.fi Finpro: www.finpro.fi Confederation of Finnish Industries: www.wk.fi/en Finnish Federation of Trade www.suomenkauppa.fi/en FINATEX (Federation of Finnish Textile and Clothing industries) www.finatex.fi/ Finnish Customs www.tulli.fi Export Helpdesk http://exporthelp.europa.eu CBI – Centre for the http://www.cbi.eu/marketinfo promotion of Euromonitor http://www.euromonitor.com FairTrade: http://www.fairtrade.net/361.0.html?&L=1 13 Imports from developing Countries
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