ARCHAEOLOGICAL
'
TEXTILES
NEWSLETTER
No.1 , 1985
EDITORIAL
I n recent years the stud y of textiles from
archaeological sites has attracted the attention
of a growing number of people, and consequently
it is developing into an accepted part of arch­
aeological research. In its turn, the study of
archaeological te xtiles is evolving into a multi­
disciplinary subject which involves not only
history and the history of art, but also various
aspects of the sciences, no tably chemistry, bot­
any, zoology and geology. Rapid growth and spec­
ialisation, however, have led man y researchers
to feel out of touch with fellow schola_rs and
cur rent areas of research. to. counteract this
tendency, .the Archaeological Textiles Newsletter
wi ll be published twice a year as a medium b y
which infor mation can be exchanged . The inform­
ation may concern the manufacturing techniques
of textiles, their uses and d is tr ibution, as well
as the identification of fibres, dye and mordant
analysis , etc.
Subscribers to the Newsletter are regarded
both as readers and contributors: the y are warmly
inv ited to contribute to the Newsletter by pro­
viding information under a number of headings.
Notes are given in detail on the following page,
but it must be stressed that contributions for
the ATN should be direc tly related to the subject
of archaeological texti les .
For present purposes, an archaeological
tex tile is defined as a textile which has been
found in a known archaeological context. The
text ile may date from the prehistoric to the
modern age; but the bas ic criterion remains its
archaeological origin .
Although the ATN is concerned with the ex­
change of information amongst specialists working
within the field of archaeological texti les, an
important geographica l limitation has had to be
applied: the ATN wi ll only co�ern itself with
Old World textiles ( from Western Europe to Japan ) .
However , if a particular technical study of New
lvorld textiles is deemed directly relevant, it
!!la y be included .
The ATN is pr incipally intended to be an
in formation service, and not a journal. A lthou
the nature of the Newslet ter may change accordi
to the wishes of the contr ibutors/subscriber s,
·it will only contain short notes, comments ,
descriptions of various collections etc; longer
articles cannot be accepted at present.
In August 1985 , a circular was sent to abo
eight y scholars , students and i�stitutions all
over the world , in order to discover whether
there was a �eed for a news le tter specifically
covering the subject of archaeological textile s
To date, over thir ty people have shown.interest
To us, this was enough;to warrant the publicati
of the ATN, twice-yearly, of which the first
issue i�ow before you . The contents and
arrangement of this first issue are basically
'the \fOrk o f the four editors; however, valuable
suggestions have been made by a number of con­
tributors and these have been taken into accoun
Of course, any suggestions as to the arrangemen
and the layout of future issues of the Newslett
wou ld be most welcome . I t should be stressed
that the Newsletter will be dependent upon the
contributions sent by its subscribers. So notes
on current research, and bibliographical infor­
mation would be especially we lc ome. Equally,
its surv iva l and success depend o'n the 'willing­
�ess of subscribers to subscribe!
This first issue contains the following
items : an ed itor ial, which gives the bas ic con­
cepts behind the Newsletter; notes to contribut·
ors; a number of Tab les showing current, releva·
excavations; some short su��aries concerning
individua l sites; notes on spec ific subjec ts (o·
the Karanog Collection in the University o f-pen.
sylvania and on the Blended Wools from the Mar y
Rose ) ; a short section on items o f miscella�
interest ( lectures, exhibitions, theses in pro­
gress etc . ) ; a list of recent publications;
( Lise Bender J�rgensen, Krishna Ri boud and
H.-J . Hund t ) ; finally a lis t of current subscri­
ber s .
1
ATN,
No.
1,
1985
The Newsletter has been se t up by the
follo1.-ing :
Gillian 1-1. Eastwood : a post-graduate student
at Nanchester Universi ty, working on a doc toral
thesis concerning the development of woollen
weft-faced compound weaves . She also works as
a freelance textile specialist wi thin the field
of Near Eastern tex tiles . She lives in Leiden ,
Holland.
Lise Bender Jprgensen : an archaeologist who
specialises in North European tex ti les from the
Prehis toric Period (until A . D. 1000) .. She is
especial l y interested in metal replaced tex ti les
as a source of information. She lives in Copen­
hagen, Denmark.
NOTES TO CONTRIBUTORS
The Archaeologi cal Textiles Newsl etter aims
to provide a source o f informati on for those� ­
are s tudying textiles primarily as archaeolog1cal
objec ts. Con tributions to the Newsletter are
welcome , and should be in accordance wi th this
concept.
1.
Contributions can be in English , German or
French. If necessary, i tems in Russian will
be accepted, but these will be translated
into English.
2.
Contributions may incl ude short (!) refe­
rences to recentl y published books , jo urnals ,
articles , and to for thcoming exhibitions ,
seminars, conferences , special courses ,
lec tures etc �; information concerning work
in progress ( see note 3) , and any queries
concerning the s tudy of archaeological tex­
tiles .
3.
Work in Progress : this is a general category
which includes, for exaLlple , work on arch­
aeological tex tiles from recent excavations
or in museums . Items in this section should
contain information ( i f available) about
the following : where the textiles were found;
the relevant dates; who excavated the si te
and when; the range of textiles found; who
is res ponsible for the cataloguing of the
textiles and where they are to be published .
These notes should not exceed a maximum of
three hundred words per item . ��ps showing
the posi tion of the relevant sites would be
grea tl y apprec iated .
�.
Li ne drawings wi ll be considered , bu t photo­
graphs canno t be accepted at present.
Penelope Wal ton : a freelance archaeological tex ­
t!le specialist who li�es in York, England . Her
fnterests cover a wide area of �or th European
textiles , but she is particulary interested in
Viking and Medieval European textiles .
John reter Wild : a Senior Lecturer in Archaeo­
logy at Manchester University. His speci fic
area of interes t is the production of tex tiles
during the Roman Period ( bu t he objects to
narrow-mindedness!) .
colop hon
The Archaeological Textiles Newslette r .
No.1 , 1985 .
Published in Leiden, The Netherlands .
ISSN: 0169-733 1 .
Edi torial Board : G . M.Eas twood , L.Bender J�rgen­
sen, P.Walton and J .P . Wild .
5.
6.
The editors reserve the right to suggest
al terations in the wording of i tems sent for
publicati on.
The deadline for contributions is the 1st
April and the 1st October , for the �lay and
November edi tions respectivel y.
Publication Dates : Twice-yearly; May and November.
Deadlines for Contributions : April 1s t and Oc t­
ober 1st. for the May and November issues res­
pectively .
Contac t Address: G.M. Eastwood, Van Swietenstraat
45 , 2334 EA Leiden , Holland.
Subscription Charges : £2. 50 per annum ( two issues).
Subscription payments can be sent to G.M. Eas twood
at the above ad dress ( tn the form of bank cheques
or postal orders for £2. 50) or money may be .:
transferred to the following Dutch Giro Account:
G . M.Vogelsang-Eastwood 2567328 ( Dutch Guilders DF11. 25 ) , again using the contact address given
above_..
.
.
LOGO
The logo is taken from the famous depic tion
on a Hallsta tt urn, found at Odenburg/Soporn,
Hungary. The original illustration shows three
women who are spinning and weavi ng .
ATN, No.
TAB4
11
1985
SHOWING CURRENT, RELEVANT E XCAVATIONS
DATES
EXCAVATORS
TEXTILE
Beverley
( 1979-1983)
urban and mona stic
Med ieval
Humberside County Council
Archaeology Unit
Eng la nd
Pene lope 1/alton
Carlisle
( 1980- )
urban
Thirteenth - fourtee nth
centuries A . D.
Ca rlisle C ity Cou nc il
Eng la nd
Pe nelo pe Walton
Hartlepoo1
( 1981-1985 )
urba n
Med ieva l
C leve land County Archaeolpgy
Engla nd
Penelope Walton
Hull
( 1976)
urba n
Medieva l a nd post-medieval
Humbers ide Cou nty Council
Archaeology Unit
E ngland
Pene lope Walto n
London - Milk Street
( 1976-1979)
ui-ban
Ninth - twelfth centur ies A . D.
De pt. of Urban Archaeology
Museum of London, England
Fra nces A . Pr itchard
Dept . of Urba n Archaeolc
Museum of London, Engla1
Clevela nd Cou nty Archaeology
Engla nd
Pe nelope l>'a lton
J . De nt and D. Powlesla nd
Penelope Walton
SITE
SPECIALISTS
Brita in ( see Ma p 1)
Newcastle-on-Tees
( 1983 - )
cemetery
? Fifth - seventh centuries A . D.
West Hes1erton
( 1977-81; 1985 - )
cemetery
Fifth - sixth centuries A . D.
York
( 1977-J 981)
urba n
Ninth to fifteenth centuries A . D. York Archaeological Trust
York , Engla nd
(mainly Viking Age )
Pe nelo pe Wa lton
Ill erup Adal
( 1974 - )
weapon depos it
Late Roma n ( third to fourth
centuries A . D. )
J . Ilkjaer a nd J . Lpns trup
Forhis toris k Museum
Moesgaard, Xrhus, Denmar k
Lise Bender J¢rgen:sen
Sejlflod
( 1979-1984)
cemetery
Late Roma n/Higra tion Periods
( four th - sixth centuries A . D. )
J . N . Nie lse n
A lborg Historiske Museum
De nmark
Lise Be nder Jqrgensen
Sve ndborg
( 1970's urban
Medie va l, £· eleve nth - sixtee nth H.M . Ja nsen
Svendbo rg Huseum, De nmark
centuries A . D.
Tybrind vig
( 1976 - '
set tlement
Late t1esolithic
Denmar k
( see Map 2)
(£.
4,200 B . C . ) .
S . H. Anderse n o
Univer sity of Arhus
De nmark
Lise Bender Jsirgensen
Lise Bender J¢rge nse n
3
ATN, No.
1,
85
SITE
�
(see Map
Akhmim
( 1979 -
DATES
EXCAVATORS
Late Roman - twentieth century A.D.
S.M cNally
TEXTILE SPECIALISTS
3)
Cherry Nelson
University of Minnesota,
U.S.A. University of Minnesota
urban
Fostat
G.Scanlan
Louise Mackie
The American University, Cairo
Royal Ontario Museum
Egypt
Toronto,
J. Alexander
Cambridge University, England
Elisabeth Crowfoot and
Nettie Adams
(a) first to second centuries A.D.
D.Whitcomb and J.Johnson
Gillian M. Eastwood
(IJ)
twelfth to fourteenth centuries
The Oriental
A.D.
U.S.A.
Islamic
( 1963 -
urban
Qasr !brim
)
( 1964 -
Late Ptolemaic - nineteenth century
A.D.
Canada
urban
Quseir al-Qadim
( 1978-1984)
urban
Tel el-'Amarna
( 1979 - )
Fourteenth century B.C.
(18th dynasty)
Institute, Chicago
Gillian M.
B.Kemp
Cambridge University,
Eastwood
England
urban
At-Tar
( 1971 -
Third century B.C. - third century
)
A.D.
(1979- )
lliromi Okada and
Kazuko Sakamoto
Japan.
cave burials
Pella
H.Fujii
Kokushikan University, Tokyo
Mid-eighth century A.D.
urban and graves
Gillian M. Eastwood
T.Potts
The University of Sydney
Australi a
Saudi Arabia
Qaryat el-Fau
)
-
( 1950's
Fifth century B.C.
A.D.
urban
- third century
?
Ahdul al-'Ansary
King Said University,
Riyadh
Saudi Arabia
The Sudan
Soba-el Taiyib
( 1978 -1984)
urban
4
Early Christian
D.A.Welsby and C.M.Daniels
Dept. of Archaeology
University of Newcastle,
England
Gillian·M. Eastwood
ATN, No. 1, 1��5
t-'.ap 1
Bri ti sh Sites
�00
lOO
Map showing the position of current
excavations in Britai n whe re textiles
have been found .
.Ma.P 2
300
K}!
Danish Si tes
�lap showing the position of current
excavations in Den mark where text iles
have been found.
f::J
Slusegaard
5
ATN, No.
1,
1985
'·.
..........�
·.
'•
··-·..
.
·--- ·.
··
:
... >�....
Map 3
Nap showing the position of current
e xcavations in the Near East where
textiles have been found .
Qa.RYAT Elr-FAU.
0
KM
Near Eastern Site s
400
------.J
.'
0
Fig.
6
1
Nale binding from Tybrind vig.
dr awing: Orla Svendsen
( after Skalk ( 1985) ,1�
1
2
3cm
-
.
ATN, No;
1, ·'1'985
summary of sites
BRITAIN
Beverley: This important medieval cloth-manufac­
turing town has pro duced evi dence for cloth­
dyeing and fulling, but onl y a small number of
textiles ( one of them a silk diamond weave ) .
These come from the Lurk Lane ( 1979- 1982) and
the Dominican Friar y ( 1982-1983) sites .
Carlisle: A small group of textiles from the
thirteenth and fourteenth centuries have been
sent from The Lanes excavation ( 1980 ) and more
are to follow.
YORK: Over 200 fragments from ninth to fifteentt.
�ury A.D. (mainly Viking Age ) Coppergate
( 1977-198 1 ) are to be published in P.\valton 'The
Textiles from 16-22 Copper gate ' , The Archaeol ogy
of York 17/5. A small unda ted group from Par­
liament Street are soon to be published in D .Twed
dle ( e d. ) The Archaeology of York 1 7/4. Work in
progress on the textile implements from Copper­
gate, also to be published in The Archaeol ogy o f
York. A report o n the twel fth and thirtee nth
cen tury textiles from Petergate , York.excavated
by L.\venham in 1957- 8, is also in preparation .
P.H.
P.W.
Hartlepool : A small amount of medieval yar n ,
fibre and textile from Southgate ( 198 1-1982 ) and
Church Close ( 1 984-1985) .
P . W.
Hul l : Several cor ds for caulking timbers from
medieval Monkgate site ( 1976 ) ; -medieval and post­
medieval textiles , including some interesting
table-woven bel t-braids, from the High Street/
Blackfriargate si te . All of these are soon to
be published in ?. Armstrong ' Excavations in High
Street , Blackfriargate, Hull ' , East Riding Arch­
aeologist, 8 ( Hull Old Town Series ) .
P.lv.
Newcastle upon Tyne : Medieval and seventeenth
century textiles from Black Gate ( 1980) ; seven­
teent� and eighteenth century textiles from Black
Friars (£. 1982 ) . These add to the two large
groups already published: 529 fragmen ts from the
fifteenth and sixteenth century Black Gate in
P . Walto� ' The Tex tiles ' , in B.Harbottle and M.
Ell ison ' An excavation in the Castle Ditch,
Newcastle upon Tyne, 1974-6 ' , Archaeologia Aeliana
5th series , 9 ( 198 1 ) 190-228;248-9; and 289 ; .
fragments from the seventeenth century in P . Wal ton
'The Textiles ' in M . Ellison and B.Har bottle 'The
excavation of a 17th ·centur y bastion in the
Castle, Newcastle upon Tyne, 1976-81 ' , Archaeo­
logia Aeliana , 5th series , 1 1 ( 1983) 217-240;
262-3.
P.\v.
Nor ton-on Tees : Mineralised remains from a
? fi fth to seventh centur y A . D. cemetery; exca­
vations begun in 1983 and s till bein g carried
out.
P.W.
West Hes1ex:ton : Hany mineral ised remains from a
fi fth to sixth century A. D . ceffietery, excavated
from 1977 to 1981 , and again in 1985 by John
Dent and Dominic Powlesland.
P . lv.
DENMARK
Hjemsted: Cemetery of more than 100 graves of
the Roman and t·li gration Periods , excavated in
South Jutland by Erik J¢rgensen and Per Ethelberg
of Haderslev Huseum. There are textile remains
in some twenty graves . Publica tion of the in­
humation graves is forthcoming, including a re­
port on thirteen graves with textiles. Most
are plain z/ z twills ( Haral dskjaer type ) , but
one piece proved to be a sample of the Rippen­
koper t ype i dentified_ . by H . -J. Hundt in a number
of Alamannic Reihengraber. Textile specialist:
Lise Bender J¢r gensen, Kpbenhavns Universitet.
L . B. J .
Illerup Adal : Huge weapon deposit in Central
Jutland, excavate d between 1950-1956 by Harald
Andersen and again from 1975 by J. Ilkjaer and
J . Lpnstrup, Forhistorisk Museum, Moesgaar d,
Arhus . Work is sti l l in progress . Preservation
condi tions favourable for iron , but not for
texti les; nevertheless at least 100 fragmen ts
have been recovered. Those examined revealed
close similarities to the garments of the wel l­
known weapon depos i t of Thorsbjerg, South Sles­
vig ( now in the BRD Germany) 1858- 1 863.
L.B.J.
Seilflod: Cemeter y with some 350 graves exca­
vate d just south of the Limfjord in North Jut­
land by Jens N. Nielsen, Alber g Historiske
Museum from 1979- 1 984. Over SO graves, mostly
dated to the fourth or fi fth centuries A . D . ,
contained textile remains, making up the largest
single collec tion of Danish textiles from this
per iod. Nost finds are plain z/ z twills ( o f
the Haral dskjaer type ) , but patterned tablet
bands and broca ded tablet bands are also found,
7
ATN, No.
1,
1985
plus a weave best termed 'braided twill ', requi­
ring at least six sheds . Preliminary publication
of one grave issued , Jens N. Nielsen et al .,
'En ri g.sermaner tidsgrav fra Sejl flod , Nord j y l­
land ', Arboger for nordisk oldkvndighed og
nistorie 1 983 ( 1985 ) , wi th shor t chapter on the
textiles by Lise Bender J¢rgensen (page ref.
97- 1 01 ) . Forthcomin g work by L. B.·J. ( Prehis­
toric Scandinavian Tex tiles ) with catalogue of
most of the Sejlflod textiles.
L.B.J.
Slusegaard : Large cemetery of 1400 plus graves
excavated on Bornholm in the late fi fties-early
sixties . Seventy graves with textiles , dated
from £· 50 B.C. to A.D . 400. The textiles found
are of the types typical for the area south of
the Baltic and South Jutland (�/z twills , spin
pat terned twills , few tabbies and linens ) , plus
an abnormally high number of z/s diamond twi lls .
Publication in progr �ss: vols . 1-2 issued in
1978 , vol . 3 delayed due to the death of the
excavator, Prof. 0. Klindt-Jensen , Arhus Univer­
sitet, but a team of archaeologists headed by
S¢ren H . Andersen are preparing vol . 3, which
also includes a textile .report bv Lise Bender
J¢r gensen.
WEST GERMANY
Cologne Cathedral : Two royal Frankish graves
found in 1959 under Cologne Cathedral proved , in
1983, to contain many disregarded and unexamined
textile remains . The most interesting piece was
a Coptic tapestry which lined the ringmai l neck­
guard of a helm, found in the grave of a six year
old boy. The second grave , that of a woman , con­
tained a fine z/s d iamond twili similar to the
Sn 1 fabric of Sutton Hoo , plus two possible
silks. A fragment of an Orien tal carpet which
had covered the lady 's grave was one of the only
tex ti le remains which had been examined . The
graves are dated to th�irst hal f of the sixth
century A. D . Preliminary repor t: Lise Bender
Jtr gensen: 'Ein kopt isches Gewebe und andere
Textilfunde aus den heiden frankischen Grabern
im Kolner Dom ', Kolner Domb1att ( 1984) , 85-96.
L. B.J .
·
EGYPT
L . B .J.
Svendborg: Urban excava tions in the town o f
Svendborg, South Funen, wi th so�e 50 textile re­
mai �s . Preliminar y report in Danish on textiles
in Arbo� for Svenborg og Omegns Museuffi (1 979 ) .
Full report in English , in The Archaeology of
Svendborg, vol .4.(in press ) . Tex tiles similar
to those kno�n from other North European Medieval
sites like Lubec k, Amsterdam, Oslo, Ber gen etc.,
i . e. wool tabbies and twills , linens and a few
silks .
L. B .J .
Tvbrind vig: Excavation of a submerged meso­
lithic settlement off the coast of Funen has
yielded the first mesolithic textile remains in
�urope. Several pieces in n �lebinding have been
round , plus plaits , strings etc. Fibres are all
ve getable , the spin is always z ( or S-plied from
z-spun threads ) . Excavator S¢ren H . Andersen ,
Arhus Universitet. Date:£· 4 , 200 B.C . ; local
chronology : the Dyrholm !!-phase of the Erteb¢l le
Cult �re. Excavati on still in progress , wmany
more textiles reported from the 1985 excavations .
Preliminary publication in S talk , I ( 1985) by
SHA and LBJ : 'Gamle klude' ( fi g. l ) .
L.B.J .
8
The Wor kmen's Village, Tel el- ' Amarna : The Work­
men 's Village is a small , isolated site about two
km north of the City of Tel el- ' Amarna. The City
and the Village were built £· 1 370 B.C. by Akhen­
aton and destroyed about thirty vears later fol­
lowing his death. Most of the c: 4 , 000 text�
are undyed flax tabbies and com€" from a series
of rubbish tips . In addition a very small number
of dyed flax textiles and undyed woollen tabbies
have also been recorded . The site is currently
being excavated by B.Kemp for the E.E.S . The
tex tiles and allied equipment are being studied
and published by G.M.Eastwood : 'Egyptian dyes and
colours ' in Dyes on historical and archaeological
textiles ( 1985) : 9-19; 'Preliminary report on the
textiles ' in B . Kemp Amarna Reports I I ( 1985 ) : 191204 .
G.M.E.
Quseir al-Qadim: The old harbour town of Quseir
al-Qadim lies about eight km · north of the modern
port of Quseir on the Red Sea coas t . The site
was only occupied for two periods: (a) Roman first and second centuries A . D. and ( b ) Ayyubid/
rffimluk - twelfth to fifteenth centuries A.D. Due
to the prevailing arid conditions thousands of
woollen , flax , cotton and silk t �xtiles have sur­
vived . Items of especial inte�est include a Ro­
man saddle cloth made up of over sixty di fferent
pieces of cloth; two Islamic face veils; a number
of men 's caps (cloth , felt , kni tted and embroid­
ered ) ; fragments of Chinese silk; embroideries ,
knitting and resist d yed cottons ( Indian?) . The
site was excavated between 1978-1982 under the
direction of Dr . D. Whitcomb and Prof. J . Johnson ,
the Oriental Institute , The University of Chica go.
The textiles are being published by G . M. E. See :
ATN, No.
D.Whitcomb and J .Johnson Quseir al-Qadim 1980
Preliminar y Report , ( 1982 ) , 28S-326. 'Egyptian
Dyes and Colours ' in Dves on historical and
archaeological Textiles, ( 1984 ) , 9-19; 'A four­
teenth century face-veil from Egypt ' , Costume,
17 ( 1983) , 33-38; 'Spinning Rings ', Journal of
Egyptian Archaeology, 70 ( 1984) , 140-14 1 ; '1'1ed­
ieval embroi deries from Quseir al-Qadim, Egypt',
Embroi dery, 34, no.3 ( 1983 ) , 80-81 and 'The Tex­
tiles ' in D.Whitcomb and J.Johnson, The Thi rd
Preliminary Report, forthcoming.
1,
1985
AN:YrHER :u:xJK AT TEXTILES FRCM KARANCG
_
G.M . E.
JORDAN
Pella: The textiles were found in a grave ( no .
83001 6, Area 14 , ievel 2 ) which contained two vic­
tims of an earthquake which occurred in 747/8 A . D .
The s mall textile fra gments have , a t some t ime ,
been subjected to heat and are now in a fragile,
carbonised state . However , eight ( possibly nine )
different types o f silk cloth have been identi­
fied, which include a variety of complex twills.
The graves were excavated under the direction of
Dr . T. Potts, The Uni versity of Sydney. A des­
cription of the texti les by G.H. E. wi ll appear
in the next Pella preliminary report .
G . H.E.
THE SUDAN
Soba el Taiyi b : Soba l ies about 30 km south-east
of Khartoum and was once an important Christian
centre . The site, and in particular the crypt of
the main church, is currently being excavated by
Dr . D. Welsby, Newcastle Uni versity . The church
was destroyed by fire in the eighth centur y . · The
carbonised textiles from the crypt include eleven
types of flax and cotton cloth and one small
fragment of gol d embroidery ( couche d) . A textile
report has been produced by G.M.E. , but as with
the other specialist reports, it will only be
published when the excavations have been comp­
leted.
G . N.E.
Those of us interested in textiles from Lowe
Nubia have long been puzzled by a collection of
Meroitic textiles hel d by the Universi ty Museum,
University of Pennsylvania. Judgin y by the
photographs in the published report , they appear
to be ver y similar to Meroitic cotton textiles
from Qasr Ibrim, Gebel Adda and Qustul , but they
are described in the text as being made from
tlax or l inen .
I was privi leged to examine the approxima­
tely SO specimens comprising the Karanog textile
collection at the University Museum on August 9tt
198S. Although the 1910 Karanog report identi fi e
the textile fiber a s flax o r linen whenever fiber
is mentioned2 , the catalogued cards , written in
1934 , list cotton as the fiber in all cases . I
found that to be true for all but one of the SO
pieces. Drawer A 14 contained E 7S1 1 F, a col­
lection of five specimens with the same number .
One of the five , il lustrated in Woolley and
Ran dall-Maciver 's Plate 1 08 , fi gure 6 3 , is cotto
Three others are very likely the unpatterned por ­
tions of the same piece. The fi fth, a relatively
small fragment, bearing no relation to the other
four , is flax, but it is not mentioned on the
catalogue card. Thus the mystery of the Karanog
textiles is cleared up; they are in the same
tradi tion , and possibly fro m the same looms as
other Meroitic textiles fro m Lower Nubia .
This collection is interesting in several
respects. The first is its similarity to the
lar ge corpus from the previously mentioned sites .
Cot ton is the predominant fiber; all yarns are
s-spun . The simple techniques of plain weave,
hal f-basket or basket weave are used as the mai n
weave o r ground weave. Decorative interest i s
provi ded in many of th undyed pieces by the use
of texture: pile loops 2 , mul tiple weftsJ, and
openwork fringes 6 are commonly found, and are
illustrated from Karanog by figures 1 , 4, and S
in Plate 1 08 7 . Tapestry weave, using two shades
of blue along with the undyed yarn is another
decorative techni que common to all of these col­
lections . Figures 2, 3, and 6 in Plate 1 088 are
examples of this style . Applied designs are
numerous from Qasr Ibri m and Gebel A dda; from
Karanog, the fragment E 7Sll Y in Drawer A 16
utilizes embroi dery to produce a circle in chain
stitch and a nearby spiral with stem stitch .
This fra gment could be part o f. a garment similar
to the one worn by the fourth fi gure from the
left , presenting the basket , in the top re gister
of Plate 27 9 . A complete one was found at Qasr
Ibrim in 1972 10, and many fra gments have subse­
quently come to light there.
Examples of three types of fabric borders
are found among the Karanog s pecimens . E 7Sl1 W
has what is probably a starting border. Selvedge�
are found on several specimens, including two
fragments having both selvedges, which give us
the ful l wi dth of the fabric ( 26.5 ems ) . Ending
bor ders are represented by five specimens having
openwork fringes, shown in fi gure s 11 . A simpler
ending border on E 7S1 1 R has tassel heads only
-- no openwork, and the fringe of the tassels is
missing.
__
9
An ending border technique which has not
been previously noted i s illustrated in figure 2,
Plate .1 08 12 . The warps remaining at the end of
the weaving.have been curved around a cotton cord
( four s-spun, tva Z-plied, S-cabled ) and secured
to the othe r side by twining or chain stitc h .
The fragility of the speci men and lack of ti me
precluded thorough exa mination, but it was de­
termined that the wa rp-ends were not wrapped
around the cord, but. si mply curved a round it.
The exact nature o f the sti tching was not anal­
ysed .
I would l ike to thank Dr. David O' Conne r,
Curator of the Egyptian Department, Uni ve rsity
Museum in Philadelphia, who kindly permitted
this examination on rather short notice . Al-··
though small , thi s collection of text ile speci­
men s from Karanog confi rms out knowledge and
enlarges our unde rstanding of Heroitic textil es,
thus making a valuable contri bution to the field
of Nubian Studies.
·
Nettie K . Adams
Museum o f Anthropology
Uni versi ty of Kentucky
1. C . . Leonard Woolley and D. Randall-��aive r,
Karanog: The Romano-Nubian Cemetery, I V,
Philadelphia Uni ve rsity Museum ( 19 1 0) .
2 Ibid, III:27 and 37 .
3 Woolley and Randall-Mac iver, op. cit. ( n . 1 ) .
4 Termed ' gausapa ' by Woolley and Randall­
Maciver, op. cit. ( n . 2 ) : 27 .
5 The authors suggest that this may be the
' polymi ta ' referred to by Pliny , ibid: 2 7 .
6 For a n excel lent technical discussion of
these decorative borders, see Eli sabeth
Crowfoot , 'Openwork Fringes from Qa sr !bri m' ,
Heroitic Newsletter, 23 ( 1984) , 10-1 7 .
7 Woolley and Randall-Mac iver, op. cit . ( n . 1 ) .
8 Ibid .
9 Ibid .
1 0 Illustrated in N . K . Adams, ' Meroitic High
Fashion: Examples fro m Art and A rchaeology ' ,
Plate V, E, fo rthcoming in Wi ssenschaftliche
Zeitschri ft ( De r Humboldt-Uni versit�t zu
Be rlin; in press) .
1 1 Woolley and Randall-Maclver, op. cit. ( n . l ) .
1 2 Ibid .
WHEN DID I'O'J L BLEND ING BEXilN?
Modern wool p rocessing frequently involve s
the blending , i . e . mixing, of more than one·kind
of wool to produce di fferen t types of cloth . A
carpet yarn , for instance , might contain four or
fi ve d i fferent qualitie s of wool , the amounts of
which are varied according to the p rice and .
availabili t y of sui table wools.
I am not awa re o f any hi storical evidence
on the date when wool blending started . One
i magines that blending began at some time during
or after the Middle Ages. Modern blending in­
vol ves a preliminary mi xing 1 , but the �ain mi xing
of the fib re s takes place during machine carding .
In hand spinning the wool i s spun more or less
directly from the fleece with little preparatio �
and usually without mixing i t with another kind
of wool . Thi s is assumed to have been the case
when the wools in old yarns a re �easured in order
to determine fleece type .
In all the wool samples from the medieval
and earlier periods which were measured by the
author, the wool fib re diameter d istributions
thus obtained have been fro m recognisable fleece
types2 . There ha ve been either more pri miti ve
skewed dist ributions ( hai ry medium, t rue hai ry
and generalised med ium fleece s) o r less p ri miti ve
symmetrical di stributions ( medium, short and fine
fleeces) , and froni this i t i s clear that a yarn
containing wool with a fine wool fibre diameter
dist ri bution is not a blend of more than one·
fleece type .
It can be postulated tha t the blending of a
fine or short wool ( ha ving a symmetrical d ist ri­
bution ) with a coarse wool ( having a skewed to
fine di st ri bution with a hai ry ' tail') would
increase the p ropo rtion of fine and/or medium
fib res. Thi s would �ake the diameter distribu­
t ion more symmet rical , without eliminati ng the
hai ry fib res.
A ' wa rp ' ya rn from one o f the wool textiles
found in the si xteenth century Mary Rose appeared
to fit the above desc ri ption , and as far as I am
aware thi s is the first earl 3 yarn on record ·
showing e vidence o f blending . I t s fib re dia­
meter dist ribution was fi rst identi fied as a
medium wool because o f i t s mean value and sym­
�et rical shape . The number of hai ry fibres i t
contained , however, caused the wool t o be re­
classified as a hai ry medium fleece . The wool ..
in thi s yarn could wel l have been a blend bet­
ween a medium wool and a hai ry or a hai ry medium
type .
The wool s of these two kinds appear to have
been mi xed before spinning, possibly during
carding . The purpose would have been to make
the cloth less coarse than it would have been i f
solely made of hai ry wool . Having o�ce found
evidenc e of such a fib re mi xing , a lookout should
be kept not onl y for other examples, but a l so for
historical record s on the introductio n of blend­
ing during the manufacture of cloth .
M. L . Ryder
Hill Fa rming Re search Organi sa tion
Bush Estate, Penicuik, Mid lo thian,
Scotland : EH26 O�Y
10
ATN, No.
l
The machine used is named a 'wil ley', the
origin of which is thought to date back to
the time when wool was loosened by beating
it with a willow branch .
2
M.L . Ryder Sheep and Man , London ( 1 983).
3
N. L . Ryder '\vools an d textiles in the Mary
Rose , a sixteenth century English wa rship'
Journal of Archaeological Science , 1 1 ( 1984) ,
337-343.
1,
1985
Philomeen M . van 't Hooft , Koptische weefsels in
het Ri jksmuseum van Oudheden te Lei den , D r57;
Faculty of Art History and Archaeology, Lei den
Unive rsity, The Nederlands . Supervisors : Prof.
dr. P . P . Y. van Moorsel and Dr. M. J . Raven .
This thesis was submitted and passed in Octobe r
1985 . A revised, Engl ish version of the thesis
will be published in 1987 as the official .cata­
logue of the museum's Coptic text ile collection .
photocopy of the ori ginal thesis (in Dutch) can
be obtained di rectly from P . van 't Hooft .
A
Lise Bender J�rgensen, No rth European Te xtiles
until A . D . 1 000, Ph . D . Dept . of A rchaeology,
Copenhagen University, Denmark .
topica
Indigo - natuurl i jk blauw , Tropenmuseum, Amster­
dam , the Netherlands . 18th Dec . 1985 to 7th April
1986 .
DYE ANALYSIS
Dve analyses : Basque 16th century text iles from
Red Bay, Labrador; medieval textiles from Bay­
nard's Castle in Lon don ( being studied by
Elisabeth Crowfoot ) ; Viking textiles from Dublin
( resea rched by Frances Pritchard) ; dye-staine d
potsherds from seventh to tenth century sites i �
England, Scotland a n d I reland. A summary of
recent dye results is given in P . Walton , 'Dyes
on Medieval Textiles ', Dyes on historical and
a rchaeological textiles , 3 ( 1984 ) , 30-34 .
P.W.
recent publications
a.
General
Topics
Adams , N. K . 'Meroitic High Fashion , £xagples
from Art and A rchaeology', Wissenschaftliche
Zeit schri ft , ( de r Humboldt-Universitat zu Berlin
in p ress ) .
Barber, E. 'New Kingdom Egypt ian Textiles : Em­
broidery vs Weaving', American Journal of Arch­
aeology, 86 ( 1982 ) , 442-445 .
Other resea rch: a chapter on the textile indust ry
for a book on medieval industries ( e ds . ·J . Blai r
and N. Ramsey) is almost complete and a search for
documentary evidence for earl y t ra de and culti ­
vation of dye-plants is also unde r way. In late
September work will begi n on t he investigation
of dyes and wools in selected te xt iles from Scan­
dinavia and Germany ( the textiles have already
been reported on by Lise Bender J�rgensen , Bente
Magnus and Klaus Tidow inter alia ) .
P . W.
Budny, H. and Tweddle , D . 'The earliest English
embroideries ', Illustrated London News , 272
( 1985) . 14-21 .
Butazzi , G . and Pertegato , F. 'Un paio di pia­
nelle cinquencente sche delle Civiche Raccolte
d'Arte Applicat di Milano ', Rassegna di Studi e
di Noti zie , xi ( 1983) , 119-168 .
Carroll , ti. L. 'Dating the foot-powered loom :
the Coptic evidence ', Ameri can Jou rnal of A rch­
aeology, 89 ( 1985 ) , 168-173.
Crowfoot , E. 'Openwork frin ges from Qasr !brim'
Meroitic Newsletter, 23 ( 1984 ) , 1Q- 1 7 .
'lHESES IN PREPARATION
Gillian M . Eastwood, Woollen Weft-Faced Compound
Weaves from Late Roman and Early Islamic Egypt ,
Ph . D . , Dept . o f Archaeology, Manchester Univer�·
sity, England. Supervisor: Dr. J . P . Wi l d.
Eastwood, G . M. 'The Textiles' in D . Whitcomb and
J .Johnson,Quse ir al-Qa dim 1980 Preliminary Re�
port ( 1982 ) , 285-326.
Eastwood, G . M . 'A fou rteenth centuFy face-veil
from Egypt ', Costume , l7 ( 1983) , 33-38 .
11
ATN, No.
1,
1985
Eastwood, G.M. 'Spinning Rings', Journal o f
Egyptian Archaeol ogy, 70 (1984 ) , 140-1 4 1 .
Eastwood, G.M. 'Prel iminary report on the tex­
tiles ' in B.Kemp, A ma rna Reports I I , ( 1985 ) ,
191-2 04 .
Eastwood , G.M. 'Hedieval Embroideries from
Quseir al-Qadim, Egypt' , Embroidery, 34, no . 3,
( 1983) 80-81.
•
Farag, R.A. ' Excava tions at Abydos in 1977: A
Byzantine Loom Factory', �IDAIK, 19 ( 1983 ) , 51-57.
Finch, K. 'A me dieval hat rediscovered ' , Textile
History, 14 , no. 1 ( 1 983 ) , 67-70 .
Fujii, H., Sakamoto, K., Okada, H. and Ichihashi,
'The latest d iscussion on the textiles from
At-Tar Caves ' , Al-Rafidan, I II-IV ( 1982-1983 ) ,
47-52.
H.
Eide m, 'Textiles from At-Tar Caves, Ira q", Al­
III-IV, ( 1982-1983) , 89-96.
�a n,
Fujii, H. ' Roma n textiles from At-Tar Caves in
Mesopotamia', Lecture given at the Turin ConR­
ress on Common Ground and Regional Features of
the Parthian and Sasa nian World, June 1 7th-18th,
1985.
Giner, C.A. ' Tejido y cesteria en la pe ninsula
Iberica. Historia de su tecnica e industrias
desde la prehis toria hasta la romanization' ,
Bibl iotheca Praehis torica H ispa na , XXI ( 1984 ) .
Gudj6nsson, E . 'Fj6rar my nd ir a f islenska ve f­
stadnum' , Arb6k H in Islenzka Fornleifafelags ( 1977) ,
125-134 ( English summary : Four p ic tures of the
Iceland ic warp-weighted loom) .
Gudj6nsson, E. ' A note o n Medieval Icelandic
shaggy pile weav ing ' , Bul l . C.I .E.T.A., 51 -52
( 1980) , 4 1 -45.
de Neergaa rd , �1. 'Child ren ' s shoes in the thir­
tee nth to s ixteenth centuries ' , Costume, 19
( 1985 ) . 14-21.
.
Newton, S.M. and Giza, �. M . ' Frilled edges ' ,
Textile H is tory, 14 ( 1983 ) , 141-152 .
Re nner, D. Die Spatantike und koptischen Tex­
til ien im Hessischen Landesmuseum in Darmstadt,
Wiesbaden ( 1985 ) .
Ryder, M.L. '\�ools fro m Textiles in the Ma ry
Rose, a 16th century English Warship ' , Jou rnal
�rchaeological Sc ience,l l ( 1984), 337-343.
Saka moto,K . ' On the loose fitting trousers fro m
Noin-Ula in North Mongol ia ' , Al -Rafidan, III-IV
( 1982-1983 ) , 31-46. ( I n Japanese ) .
Tril ling, J . The Roman Heritage: Te xtiles fro m
Egypt and the Easte rn Med iterranean 300-600 A.D.
Textile Museum Journal, 2 1 ( 1982 ) .
Walton, P .
5-8.
'Old Sock ' , I nterim, 8 , no.2 ( 1982 ) ,
Walton, P. 'The Textiles ' in M .
B. Harbottle, ' The excavation o f
bastion in the Castle, Newcastle
1971 ' , Archaeologia Ael ia na, 5th
( 1983 ) , 21 7-240; 262-263 .
Ell ison and
a 1 7th century
upon Tyne , 1976series, 1 1
Wal ton, P. and Eastwood , G . M . A Brief Guide to
the Cataloguing of Archaeological Textiles, York
( 2nd ed., 1984}.
b.
Recent Serials
Dyes o n Historical and Archaeological Textiles,
Proceedings of meetings held in York and Edin
burgh . National Nuseum of Antiquities of Scot­
land , Edinburgh ( 1982 , 1983 and 1984) .
1 ( 1 982 ) :
Gudj6nsson, E. Notes on K nitting in Iceland,
Reykjavik ( 5th ed., 1985 ) .
Whiting, M . 'Recent Adva nc es in the Detection
a nd Identification of Red a nd Yel low Dyes', 2 .
Gudj6nsson, E. 'Nogle bemaerkninger om den
islandske vaegtvaev , vefs tadur', By og Bvgd ,
30 ( 1985 ) , 1 1 7-128 ( Engl ish summery ) .
Harvey, J. 'Analysis o f Dyes in Fabrics Re­
covered from the Mary Rose Site ' , 3 -4 .
Hagg, I . ' Die Te xtil fund e aus de m Hafen von
Haithabu ' , Berichte uber d ie Ausgrabungen in
Haithabu, 20 ( 1984 ) .
Harte, N. B. and Ponting , K.G. (eds . ) Cloth a nd
Clothing in Med ieval Europe, London ( 1983 ) .
Jjllrgensen, L . B . 'Forhistoriske textiler i Skan­
d inav ien. Prehis toric Sca nd inav ia n Textiles ' .
Nordiske Fortids minder, 9 ( 1985 ) .
Nagy , K.E. 'Die Tracht e ines vornehmen Ungaris­
chen madchens aus dem 16ten Jahrhundert, Res­
taurierung und Reko�s truk tion des Boldauer
Fundes . Artes Decora tivae, 7 ( 1982 ) , 29-79 .
(Annual o f the Museu m of Decorative Arts a nd the
Far East, Budapest) .
12
Taylor, G . l�. ' Detection and Identification o f
Dyes o n A nglo-Scand inav ia n Textiles ' , 5.
Wal ton, P . 'Dyes o n Textiles from Newcastle
upon Tyne and Spitsbergen' , 6.
Sinclair, R . S. ' Colour Specification a nd Colour
Fad ing', 7-8 .
Duff, D . G . 'Natural Dyes used in Sco ttish Tex­
tiles', 9 .
Da lry mple, H . E. 'Problems in Identifying Dyes
on Old Scottish Textiles ' , 1 0- 1 1 .
Eastwood , G.M. 'Textiles Available from Middle
Easte rn Sites', 1 2 .
ATN, No.
2
( 1983 ) :
Dalry mple ( , M.E� ' Dye Identification at the
National Museum of Antiquities of Scotland', 3-7.
Daniels, V. ' Dye Analy sis at the British Museum!
8.
Duff, D.C. and Sinclair, R . S. ' Natural Dyes of
the Sco tti sh Highlands' , 9-11 .
Grierson, S. ' Practical Work with Dyes of the
Scottish Highlands' , 12- 1 3 .
Taylor, G . W. and Wal ton, P . 'Lichen Purples' ,
14-19.
Taylor, G . W. ' De tection of shell fish purple s on
textile s' , 20-2 1 .
Pritchard , F . 'Evidence o f Dyeing Practices
from a Group of Late Sa xon Textiles from London' ,
22-24 .
Hal l , A.R. ' Ev idence of Dyeplants frow Viking
Age York and Med ieval Beverle y ' , 25.
Jones, F. ' Natural Dye Col lec tion - Leeds University', 26.
3 ( 1984) :
3-7.
' Dyes on Scottish Tartans' ,
Da niels, V . ' Progress in Dye A nalysis at the
British Museur.1' , 8.
Eastwood , G.M .
9-19.
' Egyptian Dye s a nd Colours' ,
Grierson, S. ' Workshop Dyeing ' , 2 0-21 .
' Survey o f the I nsect Red Dyes',
Taylor, G . W. ' A merica n Chemical Soc iety Nee ting ,
Philadelphia , August 1984 - Comments on the
Papers Concerned with Dye A nalysis', 26-27.
Tomlinson, P. a nd Hall , A. ' Progress in Palaeo­
Botanical Studies of Dye P.lants 1983/3 ' , 28-29.
Walton, P .
1985
' Kvindedragt�n i nord isk jernalder' , Kontakt­
stencil , 13 Arhus ( 1977) .
'N.iddelalderte xtilerne fra Svendborg ' , A rbog for
Svend borg og Omegns Nuseur.J. ( 1979 ) .
' To textil fragmente r fra romersk jernalder.
Elmelund og Ellidsh ¢j' , Kuml ( 1979 ) .
with M.Benard , H . B rinch Mad sen, I . Niel sen,
K.Ambrosia ni and U.Nasma n: 'Wikingerzeitliche s
Handwerk in Ribe ' , Acta Archaeologica , 49 ( 1978).
'Cloth of the Roma n I ron Age ' , Ac ta Archaeolooic a
( 1979 ) , 1 -60.
so
' Et textil fragment fra Dalagerard-graven', Kuml ,
( 1981 ) .
' A new te xtile material fro m Danish Iron Age
graves' , in L.B . J. a nd K. Tidow, Textil!symposiurc
Neumunster. Arc haologische Textil funde , 6 . 5-8 .5.
81 , Ne��unster ( 1 982) .
with T. Skov , 'Textilerne fra Norre Vosborg ' ,
Kuml , 83 ( 1982 ) , 197-203.
with T. Skov ' Kokholmfunde r. Et gravfund fra
yngre romersk jernalder' , Fra m ( 1983 ) .
' Textilerne fra Norre Vosborg', Kuml , ( 1982-83) .
Dalrymple , H.E .
Taylor, G.M.
22-25 .
1,
' Dyes o n Medieval Textiles', 30-34 .
' Vaevenes Danmark ' , Skalk, 2 ( 1984 ) , 1 1-14.
' Cloth production a nd the cloth trade in the
first millenium A.D . ' , Skrifter fran Skara boros
Lansmuseum, 4 ( 1 984 ) , 99- 1 04 .
' North European Textile Production and Trade in
the First Millenium A . D . - A re�ch project',
Journal of Danish Archaeology, 3 ( 1984) , 124-134 .
' Ein koptisches Gewebe und andere Textilfunde
aus den beiden frankischen Gra bern im Kol ner Dom'
Kol ner Domblatt ( 1984 ) , 85-96.
' 11elh¢j-funde t. En hidtil upaagte t parallel til
Skrydstrupfundet' with E.i'-lunksgaard and K. H.
Staermose Nielsen, Aarboger for Nordisk Old­
kvndigned op Historie ( 1985) .
with.S. H.Andersen,
( 1985) .
' Ga mle kfude ' , Skalk , 2
' Frisisk klaede ' , Skalk , 4 ( 1985) .
c.
Personal
Bibliographies
'Textilerne fra Sejlflod grav DI ' , Aarb¢ger for
Nordisk Oldkvndighed and Historie ( 1985) .
Lise · Bender J¢rge nsen:
' The Te xtiles from Ned ieval Svendborg ' , The
Archaeology of Svendborg, vol . 4 ( in press)
' Textilfundene i Stengade ' , in J. Skaaru p : Stenga
Stengade II , Meddelser fra Langeland s Museum
( 1976) .
' Forhistoriske Textiler i Skand inavien'(Pre­
historic Scandinavia n Textiles' , Nord iske For­
tid sminder ( in pre ss) .
'Ana�yse eines Textil fragmentes aus Gra b I von
Harpelev ' , Ac ta Archaeologica , 47 ( 1976 ) .
'Klaede fra romerriget' , Skalk , 2 ( 1977) .
13
ATN, No.
1,
1 985 ·
Krishna Riboud :
' Some aspects of the study of ancient textiles ' ,
Studies in Museology, II ( 1966) , 36-4 1 .
' Texti les of Han and T ' ang periods excavated by
Sir Aurel Stein and preserved in the National
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37-42 .
with G . Vial and E . Loubo-Lesnichenko , ' A com­
parative study of two simi lar Han documents .
Polychrome figured silks from Lou-lan and
Ilmovaya Padj ' , Bull . C . I . E . T . A . , 28 ( 1968 ) ,
25-63 .
with G . Vial , ' Les soieries Han ' 1 ) Aspects nouveaux dans l ' etude des soieries
de l ' Asie Centrale ( K . R . )
2) Analyse technique sur un specimen de Noin­
Oula ( G . V ) .
Arts Asiatigues , XVII ( 1968) , 93- 1 1 6 .
' Essential problems concerning Central Asian
silks ' , Journal of Indian Museums , XXV-XXVI
( 1969- 1970) , 56-63 .
with G . Vial , Tissus de Touen-Houang, conserves
au Musee Guimet et i la Biblioth�gue Nationale ,
XIII , Paris ( 1970) .
with G . Vial , ' Procedures and results of a study
- Sir Aurel Stein textile collection at the
National Huseum , New Delhi ' , Bul l . C . I . E . T . A . ,
32 ( 1970/2 ) , 24-39 .
' A studv of two Central Asian silk specimens of
the Han- Dynasty ' , Bulletin of National Nuseum ,
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' A detailed study of the figured silk with birds ,
rocks and tree from the Han d ynasty ' , Part 1 by
K . R . , Part 2 by G . Vial , Bull . C . I . E . T . A . , 45 ( 1977) ,
51-68 .
' A closer view of early Chinese silks ' , Studies
in Textile Histor y , ed . V . Gervers , Toronto ( 1977) ,
252-2!30 .
' Some remarks on the face-covers ( fu-mien ) dis­
covered in the tombs of Astana ' , Oriental Art ,
XXI I I , no . 4 ( 1977 ) , 48-64 .
' Les Textiles du Bassin du Tarim ' in M . L . Hambis
( ed . ) , L ' Asie Centrale , Paris ( 1977 ) .
' Some comments on the evolution of complex weave
structures found in early patterned silks ' , ICON ,
Zagreb ( 1978) ( 78/9/5 ) .
' Quelques probl�mes techniques concernant une
cel�bre soierie fa�onnee polychrome Han ( Lou-Lan)
1) ' Expose technique L . C . 07a+b' ( K . R . ) .
2 ) ' Techniques ' ( G . V . ) .
Bul l . C . I . E .T. A . , 49 ( 1979- 1 ) , 51-64 .
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Par is ( 1980) .
' Quelques considerations techniques concernant
quatre soieries connues ' , ed . �! . Flury-Lemberg
and K . Stolleis Documenta Textili, Festschrift
fur Sigrid Miiler-Christensen , Deutscher Kunst­
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' Han dynasty specimens from Noin-Ula and Mawang­
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( 1983 ) 16-33 ,
1
with E . Loubo-Lesnichenko , ' Lou-lan and Oglakty ' ,
Ctranie i Narodnie Vostoka ( People and countries
of the Orient ) , XV ( 1973) , 278-287.
' Nouvelles decouvertes sovietiques i Oglakty et
leur analogie avec les soies fa�onnees poly­
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' Some remarks o n strikingly similar Han figured
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' Techniques and problems encountered i n certain
Han and T ' ang specimens ' , Irene Emery Roundtable
on Museum Textiles 1974 Proceedings , Washington
( 1975) , 1 53-169 .
' Further indication of changing techniques in
figured textiles of Post-Han period ( A . D . 4th to
6th c . ) ' , Bull . C . I . E . T . A . , 4 1-41 ( 1975) , 1 3-40.
contributor to the catalogue of the exhibition
' La Route de la Soie ' , held at the Grand Palais ,
Paris ( 1976) , 73-76 .
'A newly excavated Caftan from the North Caucasus '
'fhe' Textile �luseum Journal , IV , no . 3 ( 1976) , 2142 .
14
H . -J . Hundt
for publications prior to 1974 , see Jahrbuch des
romisch-germanischen Zentralmuseum, Mainz , 21
( 1974) .
' Die Restaurieruno der Funde aus den Hallstatt­
zei t lichen Fiirste � grabern von Novo Hesto . Uber
Textilreste in Hugel 4, Grab 3 ' , Archeoloiki
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' Ei n romischer Asbestfund aus Lauriacum ( Enns ) '
liit t . d . osterr . Arbeitsgem . f . Ur-u . Fruh­
geschichte , . .XXVI , 2 ( 1976 ) , 1 25ff .
I
review of K . Schlabow , Texti lfunde der Eisenzeit
in Norddeutschland . Gettinger Schriften zur Vor­
und Fruhgeschichte , 1 5 ( 1976) in Prahist . Ztschr .
52 ( 1977 ) , 263ff .
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l ,A l 985
' Report on textile traces on a coin of Basil I
from the Antalya Hoard ' , in D . M . Metcalf ' The
Antalya Hoard of Miliaresia of Basil ' , Numis­
matic Chronicle , VII , ser . XVII ( 1977 ) , 125 .
' Die Gewebereste von t1udesheim , Sulzhei:n und Hett­
stadt ' , in Chr . Pescheck , Neue Reihengraoerfunde
aus Unterfranken, Kat . 21. Prahist . Staatssammlung
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' Gewebereste aus den Reihengraberfeldern von
Rudelsdorf , Hafeld und Schlatt ' . Catalogue
Baiernzeit in Oberosterreich , Linz ( 1977 ) , 1 39ff .
' Textilfunde aus Grab 86 des awarischen Friedhofs
von Sommerein am Lei thagebirge , Niederosterreich '
in F . Daim , A . Lippert ' Das awarische Graberfeld
von Sommerein am Leithagebirge , NO , Studien zur
Archaologie der �waren , I ( 1984) ,. 18l f f .
' Gewebeabdruck auf der Innenseite eines Tubulus ' ,
in D . Baatz , ' Das Badegebaude des Limeskastells
Wal ldurn , Odenwaldkr ' , Saalburg Jahrb . , 35 ( 1978 )
106f f .
' Ein seidenes Aufnahkreuz aus Oberflacht , Gem .
Seitingen-Oberflacht, Kr . Tuttlingen ' , Forschun­
gen und Berichte zur Vor-u. Fruhgeschichte in
Baden-W�rttemberg, 10 ( 1978) , 24 . 49f f .
' Das alamannische Graberfeld von Giengen a n der
Brenz (Kr . He�denhein) ' , Forschungen u . Berichte
zur Vor-u . Fruhgeschichte in Baden-Wurttemberg,
10 ( 1.9 78) , Die Textilreste S . 149ft .
' Drei mittelalterliche Bestattungen von Kordlar
Tepe . Die Gewebef unde ' , Archaologische Mitteil­
ungen aus I ran , 1 1 ( 1978) , 1 74ff .
' Textilreste aus den Grabern von Saben-Klausen '
in K . Kromer , ' Das fruhgeschichtlichte Graberfeld
von Saben bei Klaus in Sudtirol ' , Archaeologia
Austr iaca , 64 ( 1980 ) , 4 7f.
' Textilreste aus dem fruhgeschichtlichen Krieger�
grab von Sievern , Kr . Wesermunde , 1954 ' , Studien
zur Sachsenforschung, 2 ( 1980) , 151ff .
Guterproduktion in: DFG , ' Archaologische und natur­
w�ssenschaftliche Unt�rsuchungen an Siedlungen im
Kustengeb�et , Bd . 1 , Landliche Siedlungen 3 , 1 , 7.
5 . 302-304 , Acta humaniora . ( 1984) .
' Gewebe-und Filzfunde aus Haithqbu, Ausgrabung
( 1966- 1969 ) , Berichte uber die Ausgrabungen in
Hai thabu , 19 ( 1984) , 1 29f f .
' Die Texti1reste aus dem Reihengraberfe1d von
�iedernberg in Chr . Pescheck , ' Das. frankische
Reihengraberfeld Niedernberg am Main ' , Aschaffen­
barger J�hrbuch fir Gesch . , Landeskunde u . Kuns t
d . Untermaingebiet es , 8 ( 1984) , lf3 t f .
review of M . Hald , Ancient Danish Textiles from
Bogs and Burials in Prahist . Zeitschr , 60 ( 1985) ,
12lff .
' Die Textilien im Grab von Hochdorf : Hervorragende
Zeugnisse fruhen Kunsthandwerks ' in Der Kelten­
furst von Hochdorf : Methoden und Ergebnisse der
Landesarchaologie. Katalog zur Ausstellung ,
Stuttgart , 4 August - 1 3 Oktober 1985 , 107f f .
' Die Webkunst der Hallstattzeit ' in E . Lessing ,
Hal lstatt Bilder aus der Fruhzeit Europas , ( 1980)
88f f .
' Die Gewebereste aus dem Grab von Hiigelsheim ' i n
S . Schiek , ' Der ' Heiligenbuck ' bei Hiigelsheim ' ,
Fundber . aus Baden-Wurttemberg, 6 ( l981 ) , 309ff .
Die fruhgeschichtliche Marschensiedlung beim Elisen­
hof in Eiderstedt , 4, Die Text il-und Schnurreste,
( 1981 ) .
' Einige Textilreste aus dem fruhgeschichtlichen
altfriesischen Grabfeld von Zetel , Kr . Friesland ,
Niedersachsen ' , Studien zur Sa: .hsenforschung, 3
( 1982 ) .
' Die Textilreste aus Grab 30 von Herbolzhei� Kr .
Heilbronn ' , Fundber . aus Baden-Wurttemberg, 7
( 1982 ) 470ff .
1
ad d it ional · b ib liog rap hy
De Jonghe , D. and Tavernier , M. ' Les damasses
de Palmyre ' , Bul l . C . I . E. T . A . , ( 1982 ) , 20-52 .
review of H . Hayen , R . Ullemeyer , K . Tidow, F . Ruttner
u. Inst . f. Harterei-Technik. Einzeluntersuchungen
zu Feddersen Wierde, Wagen, Textil-und Lederfunde,
3ienenkorb, Schlackenanalysen l Feddersen Wierde ,
3 ( 198 1 ) in Bonner Jahrb. , 183 ( 1983) , 761ff .
De Jonghe , D. and Tavernier , M . ' Les damasses
de Palmyre ' , Les Annales Archeologiques Arabes
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'Textilreste der Hallstattzeit aus Subingen ,
Kanton Solothurn ' , Archaeologie des Kantons
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Schulten , W . ' Der Kel ne r Dreikonigenstoff : 1
Aus Seide im 2 Jahrhunder t geweb t ' , Bayer-Berichte
47 ( 1982) . 14-19.
' Ein Texti l fund aus Grab 8 von Dorverden , Kr .
Verden (Al ler ) , Niedersachsen ' , Studien zur Sach­
senforschung, 4 ( 1983 ) , 207ff .
Wild , J . P . ' Some ear l y silk finds in Northwest
Europe ' , The Textile Museum Journal , 23 ( 1984 ) ,
.... 1 7-14.
15
ATN, No . · r ,
1985
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