Thesis for the Degree of Master in Science with a major in Textile Engineering The Swedish School of Textiles 2014-06-26 Report no. 2014.14.04 Extraction of β-carotene from orange peel and carrot waste for cotton dyeing Susan Hecker Visiting adress: Skaraborgsvägen 3 Postal adress: 501 90 Borås Website: www.hb.se/ths II Master thesis by Susan Hecker Description: Thesis submitted for the degree of Master in Science in Textile Engineering Title: Extraction of β-carotene from orange peel and carrot waste for cotton dyeing Author: Susan Hecker Supervisor: Mats Johansson, Vincent Nierstrasz Cooperation partners: Brämhults Juice AB, School of Engineering at the University Borås, Almedahls Examiner: Anders Persson The Swedish School of Textiles Report no. 2014.14.04 Master thesis by Susan Hecker III Acknowledgement At the School of Textiles in Borås I would like to thank Maria Björklund and Catrin Tammjärv who helped me and had always an open ear for all my questions and thoughts. For the good feedbacks and discussions I want to thank my supervisors Vincent Nierstrasz and Mats Johansson. Special thanks for the help with the HPLC analysis to Jorge Ferreira at the Engineer school at the University of Borås. Thanks to Stina Haglund at Brämhults Juice AB for the allocation of the orange peel and carrot residue. Anna Frisk and Karin Eklund at Almedahls made it possible that I could make the Xenon test there. And of course I would like to thank my family and friends who supported me during my whole studies and especially during my master thesis work. Borås, June 2014 Susan Hecker IV Master thesis by Susan Hecker Abstract The further usage of vegetable and plant waste from juice pressing industry as textile dyes is presented in this thesis. The thesis is focused on β-carotene (C40H56) dyestuff extracted from orange peel and carrot residue. The three organic solvents; ethyl acetate, petroleum ether and hexane/acetone (1:1 v/v) were used for the extraction. The analysis of the extract was done by RP-HPLC with a C18 column. The yield and the purity of the extracted β-carotene were determined. The highest yield was achieved with petroleum ether whereas the other two solvents were nearly as good. The highest and purest amount on β-carotene was found in the extracts of carrots. The dyeing process was continued with β-carotene dyestuff of orange peel and carrot residue extracted from 27 g of residue on 0,8 g cotton in the dyeing ratio 1:50. Unmordant and post mordanted bleached and mercerized cotton fabric was dyed. 10% alum of the weight fraction of cotton was used as mordant. Colour measurements (K/S, C*, L*, a*, b*, h and ΔE) and fastness properties as light- (ISO-Norm B02) and wash fastness (ISO 105 – C) were tested. Fair light fastness grades were achieved by β-carotene dyestuff of orange peel residue dyed on cotton fabric. Poorer were the grades for β-carotene dyestuff of carrot residue for both unmordanted and mordanted samples. The wash fastness couldn’t achieve reasonable results neither for β-carotene dyestuff from carrots nor orange peel residue, dyed on cotton fabric. Keywords: β-carotene, carrot and orange peel residue, organic solvent extraction, cotton dyeing Master thesis by Susan Hecker V Popular abstract Brämhults Juice AB a juice pressing company in Borås, Sweden has every year 8100 tons of orange peel waste and 570 tons of carrots waste from juice pressing that still contains a lot of natural resources, such pigments and colorants. Using these pigments and colorants further would increase its efficiency. A market for the further usage would be the food or textile dyeing industry. The main colorant in carrots and orange peel residues is β-carotene (C40H56). β-carotene is a water insoluble yellow-orange pigment. Nowadays it is used in the food industry as food colorant and pro vitamin A precursor. In this paper the further usage of dying cotton fabric is investigated. Due to solvent extraction β-carotene can be obtained in a quite pure form from carrots residue and in less pure form from orange peel residue. The dyed cotton fabric is red-orange for carrot extract. The orange peel extract contains besides β-carotene also other carotenes; flavonoids, phenolic acids, pectin and waxes. The dyed cotton is light yellow-orange. The fastness properties to stand washing and light exposure were tested. The light fastness properties got fair results for β-carotene dyestuff of orange peel residue dyed on cotton fabric and less fair results for the carrot extract. The wash fastness properties couldn’t achieve reasonable results. VI Master thesis by Susan Hecker Content List ACKNOWLEDGEMENT IV ABSTRACT V POPULAR ABSTRACT VI TABLE LIST IX FIGURE LIST X LIST OF ABBREVIATIONS XI 1. INTRODUCTION 2 2. LITERATURE REVIEW 4 2.1. 2.2. 2.3. 2.4. 2.5. 2.6. 3. 3.1. 3.2. 4. Β-CAROTENE CARROTS AND ORANGE PEEL EXTRACTION METHODS AND SOLVENT PROPERTIES DYEING WITH NATURAL SOURCES MORDANTS DYE AND DYEING METHOD PROBLEM DESCRIPTION AIM RESEARCH QUESTION MATERIALS AND METHODS 4 7 8 10 11 12 14 14 14 16 4.1. MATERIALS 4.2. DRYING OF THE CARROT AND ORANGE PEEL RESIDUE 4.3. EXTRACTION METHOD 4.4. ANALYSIS OF THE DYESTUFF, PURITY AND YIELD 4.5. COTTON DYEING 4.6. SPECTROPHOTOMETRIC MEASUREMENTS 4.7. FASTNESS PROPERTIES TESTS 4.7.1. XENON TEST (ISO-NORM B02) 4.7.2. WASH FASTNESS TEST (ISO 105 – C) 16 17 17 18 18 20 21 21 21 5. 22 5.1. 5.2. 5.3. 5.4. 5.5. 5.6. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION DETERMINATION OF Β-CAROTENE SPECTRUM RESULTS OF THE RP-HPLC ANALYSIS MORDANTING AND DYEING SPECTROPHOTOMETRIC COLOUR MEASUREMENTS RESULTS OF THE WASH FASTNESS TEST (ISO 105 – C) RESULTS OF THE XENON TEST (ISO-NORM B02) Master thesis by Susan Hecker 22 23 26 28 30 31 VII 6. CONCLUSIONS 33 7. FUTURE RESEARCH 34 REFERENCES APPENDIX APPENDIX I AQUEOUS EXTRACTION ORGANIC SOLVENTS EXTRACTION WITH ETHANOL RESULTS OF THE HPLC ANALYSIS APPENDIX II CHEMICAL STRUCTURES OF THE SOLVENTS USED APPENDIX III VAT DYE APPENDIX IV HPLC RESULTS APPENDIX V SPECTROPHOTOMETRIC AND FASTNESS PROPERTY RESULTS VIII Master thesis by Susan Hecker 35 I II II III IV VI VI VII VII VIII VIII XII XII Table List TABLE 1: TOTAL CAROTENOIDS AND THE CONTENT OF DIFFERENT CAROTENE AND XANTHOPHYLLS IN CARROTS AND ORANGE PEEL IN MG/G CARROTS/ORANGE PEEL ............................................................................ 7 TABLE 2: SOLVENT PROPERTIES OF THE USED SOLVENTS ............................................................................ 9 TABLE 3: AMOUNTS OF THE DRIED RESIDUES (G) AND SOLVENTS (ML) THAT WERE USED FOR THE HPLC SAMPLES AND THE DYESTUFF EXTRACTION FOR THE COTTON DYEING.................................................. 17 TABLE 4: COMPOSITION OF THE USED Β-CAROTENE DYESTUFF OF CARROT AND ORANGE PEEL RESIDUE THAT WAS USED FOR THE DYEING OF 0,8 G COTTON FABRIC. ....................................................................... 19 TABLE 5: FINAL DYE RECEIPT. AMOUNT PER LITRE WATER AND THE CALCULATED AMOUNT THAT WAS USED FOR THE DYEING OF 0,8 G COTTON FABRIC IS LISTED. ............................................................................... 20 TABLE 6: THREE DIFFERENT CONCENTRATIONS USED FOR THE HPLC-STANDARD CURVE ............................ 23 TABLE 7: Β-CAROTENE CONTENT IN CARROTS AND ORANGE PEEL (MG/G OF CARROTS OR ORANGE PEEL)...... 25 TABLE 8: COLOUR COORDINATION OF THE DYED COTTON FABRICS WITH CARROT EXTRACT .......................... 28 TABLE 9: COLOUR COORDINATION OF THE DYED COTTON FABRICS WITH ORANGE PEEL EXTRACT ................. 29 TABLE 10: RESULTS OF THE WASH FASTNESS TEST OF UNMORDANTED AND POST MORDANTED (ALUM) DYED COTTON FABRICS OF ORANGE PEEL AND CARROT EXTRACT................................................................. 30 TABLE 11: RESULTS OF THE XENON LIGHT FASTNESS TEST OF UNMORDANTED AND POST MORDANTED (ALUM) DYED COTTON FABRICS OF ORANGE PEEL AND CARROT EXTRACT. ....................................................... 31 TABLE 12: Β-CAROTENE CONTENT IN CARROTS AND ORANGE PEEL (ΜG/G) ................................................... IV TABLE 13: DIFFERENT PARAMETERS FOR VAT DYEING ON COTTON FABRIC .................................................. VII TABLE 14: RESULTS OF THE DETERMINATION OF Β-CAROTENE BY HPLC ................................................... VIII TABLE 15: COLOUR COORDINATION OF THE ALL DYED COTTON FABRICS WITH CARROT EXTRACT .................. XII TABLE 16: COLOUR COORDINATION OF THE ALL DYED COTTON FABRICS WITH ORANGE PEEL EXTRACT ......... XII TABLE 17: RESULTS OF THE WASH FASTNESS TEST OF ALL UNMORDANTED AND POST MORDANTED (ALUM) DYED COTTON FABRICS OF ORANGE PEEL AND CARROT EXTRACT. ...................................................... XIII TABLE 18: RESULTS OF THE LIGHT FASTNESS TEST OF ALL UNMORDANTED AND POST MORDANTED (ALUM) DYED COTTON FABRICS OF ORANGE PEEL AND CARROT EXTRACT. ...................................................... XIII Master thesis by Susan Hecker IX Figure List FIGURE 1: FRUITS AND VEGETABLE WASTE FROM JUICE PRESSING OF BRÄMHULTS JUICE AB IN TONS PER YEAR. ................................................................................................................................................ 2 FIGURE 2: W ASTE HANDLING OF BRÄMHULTS JUICE AB. W ASTE IN TONS PER YEAR. ..................................... 3 FIGURE 3: ALL-TRANS Β-CAROTENE ............................................................................................................ 4 FIGURE 4: CAROTENOIDS CLASSIFICATIONS ................................................................................................ 5 FIGURE 5: Β-CAROTENE SYNTHESIS BY W ITTIG REACTION ............................................................................ 6 FIGURE 6: 9-CIS-Β-CAROTENE .................................................................................................................... 6 FIGURE 7: DESICCATOR SILICA UNDER VACUUM CONTAINING ORANGE PEEL AND CARROT PIECES ................. 17 FIGURE 8: GRINDING DRIED ORANGE PEEL AND CARROTS IN A MORTAR....................................................... 17 FIGURE 9: EXTRACTION FROM CARROTS IN PETROLEUM ETHER .................................................................. 17 FIGURE 10: GRAPH OF THE DETERMINED WAVELENGTH OF Β-CAROTENE AT 450 NM. ................................... 22 FIGURE 11: HPLC-STANDARD CURVE OF Β-CAROTENE .............................................................................. 23 FIGURE 12: HPLC GRAPH AT 450 NM SHOWING Β-CAROTENE, Α-CAROTENE AND ZEAXANTHIN EXTRACTED FROM CARROT RESIDUE.................................................................................................................... 24 FIGURE 13: HPLC GRAPH AT 450 NM SHOWING Β-CAROTENE, Α-CAROTENE AND ZEAXANTHIN EXTRACTED FROM ORANGE PEEL RESIDUE ........................................................................................................... 24 FIGURE 14: Β-CAROTENE DYESTUFF OF CARROT RESIDUE, DYED ON COTTON, MORDANTED AND UNMORDANTED ....................................................................................................................................................... 27 FIGURE 15: Β-CAROTENE DYESTUFF OF ORANGE PEEL RESIDUE, DYED ON COTTON, MORDANTED AND UNMORDANTED ................................................................................................................................ 27 FIGURE 16: HPLC FROM CARROT EXTRACT IN AQUEOUS SOLUTION AT 450 NM ............................................ IV FIGURE 17: HPLC FROM ORANGE PEEL EXTRACT IN AQUEOUS SOLUTION AT 450 NM.................................... IV FIGURE 18: HPLC FROM CARROT EXTRACT IN 80 % AQUEOUS ETHANOL SOLUTION AT 450 NM ..................... IV FIGURE 19: HPLC FROM ORANGE PEEL IN 80 % AQUEOUS ETHANOL SOLUTION AT 450 NM............................ V FIGURE 20: HPLC GRAPH OF SAMPLE 1 Β-CAROTENE FROM ORANGE PEEL, EXTRACTED IN ETHYL ACETATE VIII FIGURE 21: HPLC GRAPH OF SAMPLE 7 Β-CAROTENE FROM ORANGE PEEL, EXTRACTED IN ETHYL ACETATE .. IX FIGURE 22: HPLC GRAPH OF SAMPLE 3 Β-CAROTENE FROM ORANGE PEEL, EXTRACTED IN HEXANE/ACETONE ........................................................................................................................................................ IX FIGURE 23: HPLC GRAPH OF SAMPLE 9 Β-CAROTENE FROM ORANGE PEEL, EXTRACTED IN HEXANE/ACETONE ........................................................................................................................................................ IX FIGURE 24: HPLC GRAPH OF SAMPLE 2 Β-CAROTENE FROM ORANGE PEEL, EXTRACTED IN PETROLEUM ETHER ........................................................................................................................................................ IX FIGURE 25: HPLC GRAPH OF SAMPLE 8 Β-CAROTENE FROM ORANGE PEEL, EXTRACTED IN PETROLEUM ETHER ......................................................................................................................................................... X FIGURE 26: HPLC GRAPH OF SAMPLE 4 Β-CAROTENE FROM CARROT, EXTRACTED IN ETHYL ACETATE ............ X FIGURE 27: HPLC GRAPH OF SAMPLE 10 Β-CAROTENE FROM CARROT, EXTRACTED IN HEXANE/ACETONE....... X FIGURE 28: HPLC GRAPH OF SAMPLE 6 Β-CAROTENE FROM CARROT, EXTRACTED IN HEXANE/ACETONE......... X FIGURE 29: HPLC GRAPH OF SAMPLE 12 Β-CAROTENE FROM CARROT, EXTRACTED IN HEXANE/ACETONE...... XI FIGURE 30: HPLC GRAPH OF SAMPLE 5 Β-CAROTENE FROM CARROT, EXTRACTED IN PETROLEUM ETHER ...... XI FIGURE 31: HPLC GRAPH OF SAMPLE 11 Β-CAROTENE FROM CARROT, EXTRACTED IN PETROLEUM ETHER .... XI X Master thesis by Susan Hecker List of Abbreviations Abbreviation Unit Å a* b* C* FTIR Red-green Blue-yellow h HPLC K/S L* NaOH Owf RP-HPLC TLC UV v Chroma Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy Hue High Performance Liquid Chromatography Kubelka Munk, colour strength or colour uptake Lightness V ΔE Sodium hydroxide Of the weight fraction Reverse-Phase High Performance Liquid Chromatography Thin Layer Chromatography Ultra violet Volume Volt Colour difference between uncoloured and coloured fabric μg λ max Definition Ångström Microgram Maximal absorption Master thesis by Susan Hecker XI 1. Introduction Plant material like fruits, berries, roots, barks, vegetables, leaves etc. have been used for textile dyeing over hundreds of years (Cardon, 2007). With the industrialisation and the invention of synthetic dyes, natural dyes disappeared almost entirely in the textile industry (Cardon, 2007, Hardman and Pinhey, 2009). With their well-known structures synthetic dyes became easier in handling, higher in process safety and better in reproducibility compared to natural dyes and so a success for dye houses. Nevertheless different researchers investigated in the recent years again in new methods on dyeing with natural material and their extracts. The used extraction methods are mostly organic-solvent extraction (Saleh et al., 2013, Yi and Yoo, 2010). The article by Saleh et al. (2013) shows great potential of dyeing cotton fabric with β-carotene containing dyestuff extracts, extracted from banana leaves by organic solvent extraction. The results evidenced high tensile strength, high colour strength, and high fastness properties for the dyed cotton fabrics. Brämhults Juice AB, Borås has 8100 tons of orange peel waste and 570 tons of carrots waste from juice pressing each year (Figure 1). In this state after the juice pressing the vegetable and fruit residues still contain a lot of natural resources such as colorants and pigments (Brämhults Juice AB, 2014). A further use of the waste could be the textile dyeing industry (Guinot et al., 2007, Saleh et al., 2013). With extraction and purification of the pigments, dyes comparable to synthetically textile dyes can be achieved. 570 630 Orange peel Carrots Others 8100 Figure 1: Fruits and vegetable waste from juice pressing of Brämhults Juice AB in tons per year. 2 Master thesis by Susan Hecker β-carotene is a natural yellow-red pigment. Its chemical formula is C40H56. Its sources are mainly plants, vegetables and fruits with a yellow-red colour as carrots and oranges. It is an important precursor for vitamin A since it cannot be synthesised in the human body. The intake has to be over the diet (Schlieper, 2005). As colorant it is used in the food industry under the numbers E160 a-f (Domke et al., 2004). The total amount of residue of the juice pressing of all vegetables and fruits from Brämhults Juice is 9300 tons per year. 500 500 Biogas production and fodder Fodder Waste disposal 8300 Figure 2: Waste handling of Brämhults Juice AB. Waste in tons per year. This is composed of 8300 tons that is used for the biogas production and fodder, 500 tons for fodder and 500 tons for waste disposal (Figure 2) (Brämhults Juice AB, 2014). A suitable extraction method of β-carotene from orange peel and carrot residue would gain an additional value to their waste. The further use of the residues can be economically beneficial for both the juice pressing and the textile dyeing industry. Synthetically produced β-carotene and the extracted β-carotene from natural sources have the same chemical structure and are therefore comparative with each other. Master thesis by Susan Hecker 3 2. Literature review The following literature review gives a look into the physical and chemical properties of βcarotene, its synthesis and uses today. It gives an overview on the existing research in the field of extraction of β-carotene and other natural pigments and their appliance in different dyeing methods. It is shown how much β-carotene other researchers could extract from orange peel and carrots. An investigation on different solvents and their suitability for βcarotene extraction was done. Different dyeing methods used for water insoluble dyes and on cotton and the usage of mordants is described as well. 2.1. β-carotene β-carotene is a natural yellow-red coloured pigment with the chemical structure C40H56, (Figure 3). It occurs mainly in plants, fruit and vegetables. It belongs to the group of carotenes that together with xanthophyll belongs to the upper-level grouping of carotenoids (Bergmann, 2004). Chemically β-carotene is classified as tetraterpene (Koskinen, 2012). Carotenoids are divided in oxygen containing molecules (xantophylls) and non-oxygen containing molecules (carotene) (Domke et al., 2004), Figure 4. The lack of hydroxyl groups makes β-carotene hydrophobic. Due to its two cyclic rings at each end of the molecule chain, β-carotene is a dicyclic compound, composed of 8 isoprene-units (C5H8). The high amount of conjugated double bonds is called chromophor and is responsible for the colour impression (Bergmann, 2004). β-carotene absorbs light of the wavelength 450 nm of the visible part of the spectrum (Bauernfeind, 1981). Figure 3: All-trans β-carotene In the nature carotenoids have an indispensable protective role for chlorophyll and the human eyes by absorbing and dissipating excessive light energy that would damage them 4 Master thesis by Susan Hecker (Campbell, 2003). β-carotene is the most common carotene (Schlieper, 2005). β-carotene is very sensitive to light, heat and oxygen. It can change its chemical structure due to oxidation, degradation or isomerization. The latter doesn’t have any effect on the colour impression of β-carotene because the double bonds do not break (Liaaen-Jensen, 1989). The handling of carrots and orange peel residue for the β-carotene pigment extraction and the later dyeing process therefore has to be handled with care. Too high exposures to light, heat and oxygen have to be avoided. The storing is recommended under frozen conditions. According to Qian et al. (2012) the β-carotene stability against degradation is higher at a pH between 4-8. Natural β-carotene occurs in trans- and cis-isomers whereas synthetically produced βcarotene is mostly all-trans-form, due to its higher absorbance for the human body (Bundesinstitut für Risikobewertung, 2013). Carotenoids Carotene (hydrophobic) Xantophylls (hydrophillic) β-carotene α-carotene Lutein Lycopene etc. etc. Zeaxanthin Figure 4: Carotenoids classifications The β-carotene synthesis is either produced by employing a Wittig reaction or a Grignard reaction (Koskinen, 2012). The following reaction (Figure 5) is by Wittig. It shows a transselective Wittig olefination of aldehydes II—synthesis of β-carotene from a dialdehyde. Master thesis by Susan Hecker 5 Figure 5: β-carotene synthesis by Wittig reaction As vitamin A precursor, synthetically produced β-carotene is especially important for the use in the food industry as completion to the natural, in the food existing β-carotene. As food additive with the purpose of a food colorant it is known under the numbers E160 a-f. (Domke et al., 2004) Figure 6: 9-cis-β-carotene 6 Master thesis by Susan Hecker 2.2. Carrots and Orange peel Carrots and orange peels are a rich source for carotenoids. Carotenoids, especially βcarotene is present in both of them and is responsible for their yellow-orange colour. Main compounds in carrots and orange peel are β-carotene, α-carotene, lutein and zeaxanthin (Table 1), (Heinonen, 1990, Wang et al., 2008, Curl and Bailey, 1956). Additionally orange peel contains flavonoids, phenolic acids, pectin and waxes (Wang et al., 2008). The compounds in orange peels extracts are by some researches tested on their UV-protective properties and antimicrobial activity (Hou et al., 2013, Yi and Yoo, 2010). The total carotenoids content and the amount of some xantophylls and carotenes of carrots and orange peel are listed below. Table 1: Total carotenoids and the content of different carotene and xanthophylls in carrots and orange peel in mg/g carrots/orange peel Carrots Total carotenoids 0,16 – 0,38 Article Mustafa et al. (2012) Orange peel Article 0,45 Wang et al. (2008) Carotenes (hydrophobic carotenoids) β-carotene α -carotene 0,046 – 0,10 0,022 – 0,049 Heinonen (1990) Heinonen (1990) Dumbravă 0,05 – 0,056 et al. (2010), Wang et al. (2008) 0,017 – 0,019 Curl and Bailey (1956) Xanthophylls (hydrophilic carotenoids) Lutein 0,0011 – 0,0056 Zeaxanthin 0,0574 Heinonen (1990) Curl and Bailey (1956) 0,029 Wang et al. (2008) 0,027 Wang et al. (2008) Master thesis by Susan Hecker 7 2.3. Extraction methods and solvent properties In literature different extraction methods for β-carotene (carotenes) from orange peel, carrots and other fruits, vegetables and plants are described. The most common method is the organic solvent extraction. It was described by several different researches for the extraction of β-carotene from orange peel (Ghazi, 1999), (Dumbravă et al., 2010) and carrots (Biswas et al., 2011), (Fikselova et al., 2008), (Livny et al., 2003), (Marx et al., 2000), but also from other vegetables and plants as tomato, paprika (Levy et al., 1995) and from the algae Dunaliella salina (Marchal et al., 2013), (Mojaat et al., 2008). Several other extraction methods for β-carotene were researched. So were investigations on supercritical fluid extraction of β-carotene done by Kaur et al. (2012), Chandra and Nair (1997) and Benelli et al. (2010) for carrots and the latter one for orange peel. “Ultrasound assisted extraction of β-carotene from Spirulina platensis”, a cyanobacteria was researched by Dey and Rathod (2013). A microwave-assisted extraction of β-carotene from carrots was done by Hiranvarachat et al. (2013) and the effect of enzymes on carotene extraction in carrots was investigated by Jaramillo‐Flores et al. (2005). The “Relative solubility, stability, and absorptivity of lutein and β-carotene in organic solvents were tested by Craft and Soares (1992). The solubility of both carotenoids (β-carotene and lutein) was best in tetrahydrofuran, whereas the least solubility for lutein was in hexane and for β-carotene methanol and acetonitrile. Organic solvents can be classified due to their chemical structure, according their solubility in water they are grouped into polar and nonpolar solvents (Smallwood, 1996). A good solubility for β-carotene was shown by some organic solvents of the category hydrocarbons (same chemically classification as βcarotene), ethers, esters, chlorinated solvents and ketones (Craft and Soares, 1992). For the selection of a suitable solvent for β-carotene extraction a low boiling point is advantageous. The solvent has to be removed by rotary evaporator after the extraction to achieve pure βcarotene, with a low boiling point the thermal sensitive β-carotene can be preserved. Two articles used the organic solvent mixture of acetone and hexane (1:1 v/v) for the “Extraction of β-carotene from orange peel” (Ghazi, 1999) and from carrot juices (Marx et al., 2000). Ghazi (1999) concluded that the organic solvent mixture of acetone and hexane achieves the highest extracted yield of β-carotene. Biswas et al. (2011) extracted amongst others β-carotene from carrots with four different organic solvents; acetone, diethyl ether, 8 Master thesis by Susan Hecker acetonitrile and methanol. With acetone the highest yield was achieved followed by diethyl ether. In another study β-carotene was extracted from orange (Citrus sinensis L.) fruits peel extracts by three different organic solvents; ethanol, benzene and petroleum ether. Only in the petroleum ether extract, β-carotene could be identified. The amount in the ethanol and benzene extract was too little (Dumbravă et al., 2010). Ishida and Chapman (2009) compared ethyl lactate as an environmentally friendly solvent with the, for the food industry commonly used solvents ethyl acetate and ethanol for the carotenoid extraction. It was mentioned that ethyl acetate is a good solvent for β-carotene and lutein and less good for alltrans isomer of lycopene. That could help to achieve a higher purity of the extracted βcarotene. Therefore ethyl acetate was chosen instead of ethyl lactate, which was slightly better in the extraction of β-carotene. The following table are the solvents that were used in this thesis for the β-carotene extraction from orange peel and carrot residue. They are listed after their solvent classification. The solubility of β-carotene (mg/L) and the stability after 10 days in % of the initial absorbance of β-carotene at λmax (Craft and Soares, 1992), values of the boiling point (°C) and the polarity of the solvents are given (Smallwood, 1996). Table 2: Solvent properties of the used solvents Solvent Solubility of β-carotene 1 mg/L Stability after 10 days % of initial absorbance 1 of β-carotene at λmax. Boiling 2 pt. °C Polarity 2 (H2O=100) Article that uses the solvent Hydrocarbons Petroleum ether - - 36 0,9 (Dumbravă et al., 2010) Hexane 600 92 69 0,9 (Ghazi, 1999, Marx et al., 2000) 500 05 77 6,02 (Ishida and Chapman, 2009) 200 93 56 20,6 (Ghazi, 1999, Marx et al., 2000) Esters Ethyl acetate Ketones Acetone 1 (Craft and Soares, 1992); 2 (Smallwood, 1996) Master thesis by Susan Hecker 9 2.4. Dyeing with natural sources There are different researches in the field of textile dying with natural plant and vegetable extracts. Some of them are based on the extraction of pigments from orange peel and carrots but are not specialized on the extraction of β-carotene. The extraction methods used are depending on the solubility properties of the natural extract are mostly either aqueous extraction or organic solvent extraction. Hou et al. (2013) and Yi and Yoo (2010) investigated UV-protective properties and antimicrobial activity of orange peel extracted dye. They used water and organic solvent extraction to achieve dyestuff for wool and cotton fabric. Hou et al. (2013) analysed the water extracted main colorant compounds in the extracted dyestuff as phenolic colorants and pectin by UV-visible spectroscopy and FTIR (Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy). A direct dyeing was done on wool with pre-, one-bath and post-mordanting. As mordants alum and ferrous sulphate were used to achieve good colour, wash and acceptable light fastness properties. Yi and Yoo (2010) identified flavonoids as the main colorant extracted by ethanol. They concluded that the best dyeing conditions for cotton with orange peel dyestuff were a pH of 3 at 60°C for 60 min, with a dye concentration of 800% owf. With focus on by-product or waste further usage, dyestuff extracts of carrots and banana leaves were analysed. Under aqueous extraction flavonoid aglycones were extracted from carrot by-products and dyed on pre-mordanted hemp fibres. Analysis of the vegetable colorant was done by TLC (Thin layer chromatography) and HPLC (High performance layer chromatography). Two solvents for extraction were applied on banana leaves. In the alkaline extract luteolin and apigenin and in the acetone extract chlorophyll a, and b and β-carotene were analysed with HPLC. With ferrous sulphate, copper sulphate and potassium dichromate premordanted cotton fabric was dyed in a closed bath for 5 min. at 56°C. The results showed high tensile strength, high colour strength, and high fastness properties. (Guinot et al., 2007, Saleh et al., 2013) There are different investigations from the University of Innsbruck, Austria on the topic of natural textile dyes from plant extracts. In all their articles aqueous extraction is applied to 10 Master thesis by Susan Hecker assure an environmental friendly extraction process. In this way the residues of the extraction can be further used as animal food or combustion. They registered the extraction method for a patent. The plant materials used are amongst others Canadian golden rod, onion skin, dyer´s weed and nutshells. The extracted dyes are analysed by a diode array spectrophotometer. The dyestuff compounds analysed are flavonoids, tannins et al. Solid dyestuff was produced from the extract due to the better handling and storing for the dye houses. Exhaust dyeing was the employed dyeing method. The substrates used were linen, polyamide and wool. To bind the dyestuff better to the fibres mordanting with alum, ferrous sulphate and ferrous chloride was applied. (Bechtold et al., 2007, Leitner et al., 2012, Wallner and Wenisch, 2011) 2.5. Mordants Dye extracts of natural sources often have none or little amount of functional groups. Due to that, their fastness properties are weaker. To overcome that disadvantage mordants are often used to fix the colorant to the textile substrate. Mordants are metal or mineral salts that function as a bond between the textile substrate and the dyestuff (Flint, 2008). There are many different mordants used to help natural dyestuffs binding to a textile substrate. Some have only the function of fixing the dyestuff to the textile substrate (alum) whereas others can also influence or change the colour impression and saturation of the dyed textile (ferrous sulphate), depending on the nature and concentration of the mordant (Cardon, 2007). Most of them are heavy metal salts such as copper sulphate, ferrous sulphate and potassium dichromate others are alum, stannous chloride and sodium chloride. Among them alum, potassium aluminium sulphate (KAl(SO4 )2 ×12H2O) and ferrous sulphate (FeSO × 7H O) 4 2 are very common used mordants due to their lower environmental pollution (Hou et al., 2013, Bechtold et al., 2007, Choo and Lee, 2002, Meksi et al., 2012). There are different methods when the mordant is added to the dye bath. Pre-, simultaneous- or post-mordanting. In premordanting, the to dyeing fabric is mordanted before the actual dyeing in a separated mordanting bath. In simultaneously mordanting the mordant is added to the dye bath. This brings the risk that the dyestuff and the mordant bind together before either of them has attached to the fibre but its quick and saving resources as water and energy. The postmordant method is used to fixate the colours permanently and intensifies them. It is done in a separate mordant bath after the dyeing process (Flint, 2008). Usually mordanting is done on wool or other animal fibres. Cotton mordanting is rarely found in literature. One article that Master thesis by Susan Hecker 11 was investigating in the mordanting of cotton fabric was by Ali et al. (2009). They used preand post-mordanting of cotton fabric in a mordant-bath ratio of 1:15 (goods/liquid). The mordants used were alum and ferrous sulphate. The best results were achieved for postmordanted cotton fabric with alum in a concentration of 10% (owf). 2.6. Dye and dyeing method The difference between natural dyes to synthetic dyes is that natural dyes often don´t consist of a single colouring molecule. Often they consist of several different colorants that belong to different chemical groups (Cardon, 2007). A good example therefore is the orange peel. Besides hydrocarbons (were β-carotene belongs to) orange peel consists of diole, monoether diole, diether diole and polyole (Curl and Bailey, 1956). This and the changing amount of the various compounds due to seasonal deviations make the repeatability of those dyes more difficult compared to synthetic dyes. The classifications of textile dyes are either done by their chemical structure and properties or by the fibre that will be dyed with it. The most prominent property of the β-carotene is its water insolubility. This was the factor after what the dye method was chosen. The other factors were the used fabric material, cotton. As water insoluble textile dyes vat, sulphur and acid disperse dyes for polyester and metal complex dyes are known. The substrates dyed with them are mostly cellulosic and polyester fibres. Reactive dyeing is the most common dyeing method for cellulosic fibres as cotton and viscose. Cellulose fibres can be dyed by sulphur dyes. Similar to the β-carotene dyestuff they are both water insoluble dyes. The difference is the containing sulphur group in the sulphur dye. The water insoluble sulphur dyes becoming water soluble through alkali reduction. Vat dyes are also used for the dyeing of cellulosic fibres. Vat dyes are absolutely water insoluble and due to reduction they are transformed to the water-soluble leuco form. After the dyeing process they are getting water insoluble again by oxidation. The highest similarities in the dye structure have β-carotene with disperse dyes for polyester. Both are low water-soluble due to the lack of existing water-soluble making groups and reactive groups in the dye molecule. The dye molecules are relatively small and non-polar (Marx, 2011). Some disperse dyes hydrolyse under alkaline conditions and form free carboxylic acids that are soluble in the alkaline solution (Broadbent et al., 2001). 12 Master thesis by Susan Hecker Hydrolysis of a disperse dye for polyester under alkaline conditions: Dye - NR - CH2CH2CO2CH3 (s) + HO- (aq) ¬¾ ® Dye - NR - CH2CH2CO-2(aq) + CH3OH(aq) The synthetically form of β-carotene is absolutely water insoluble, but nature has not bounded the natural β-carotene to lipoidal systems. The protein complexes of which the βcarotene is surrounded in carrots and orange peels and colloidal structures allow the βcarotene to be dispersed in primarily aqueous systems. (Bauernfeind, 1981) Reactive dyeing is the most common used dyeing method in the industry. Reactive dyes are quite small (comparable to β-carotene) and water soluble molecules. The dyeing medium is usually alkali and a huge amount of sodium chloride is used as electrolyte addition. The chemical binding between reactive dyes and the fibres are an atom binding. (Marx, 2011) The fact that polyester requires dyeing temperatures of 130°C to open up the fibre structure and let the dye molecules migrate into fibre, cotton was chosen. Cotton can be dyed at temperatures around 60°C. The high temperatures of polyester dyeing would destroy the βcarotene double bonds and so the colour impression. The only possibility the dye polyester at lower temperatures is with the use of carriers. But they are highly environmentally unfriendly. (Marx, 2011) Master thesis by Susan Hecker 13 3. Problem description Brämhults Juice AB is producing 8670 tons of orange peel and carrot waste every year from the total waste of 9300 tons. In the state after the juice pressing the vegetable and fruit waste is still a valuable source for different natural pigments that can be extracted and used as dyestuff for the textile dyeing industry. Alone from the carrots and orange peel waste more than 200 kg of β-carotene could be extracted and used as a new dyestuff source for the textile dyeing industry. There is no previous research found which focus on the extraction of β-carotene dyestuff from orange peel and carrots as further use for cotton dyeing. The extracted β-carotene dyestuff has to be a process stable product for dye houses. The dye process has to be secured and reproducible with the same colour result to be applicable for a dye house. Therefore an, as possible, pure dye has to be extracted from the natural source, orange peel and carrots residue. 3.1. Aim The aim of this master thesis is a comprehensive study. It is about the extraction of βcarotene dyestuff from orange peel and carrot residue from the juice pressing industry and the analysis of the extract by HPLC on purity and yield of β-carotene. Further the usage for the dyeing of cotton fabric will be investigated. The extract on yield and the purity of the extract have to be competitive with synthetically produced β-carotene. The dyed cotton fabrics are tested on their wash and light fastness to see if the dyestuff is competitive with synthetic dyes. The aspect of environmentally friendly solvents for the extraction is neglected in the study. This might be interesting for the further work. For the present report this was out of scope. 3.2. Research question Which organic solvent or mixture is most suitable for β-carotene extraction from carrots and orange peel 14 Master thesis by Susan Hecker Does the extracted β-carotene conform to synthetically produced β-carotene? Which yield and purity can be extracted? Which dyeing method is most suitable to dye cotton with the extracted β-carotenedye? Can acceptable wash and light fastness be achieved on the dyed cotton fabric? Can a better result be achieved with using a mordant? Master thesis by Susan Hecker 15 4. Materials and methods All the materials and methods that were used in this work are explained and listed in the following chapter. There were always 2 samples done for the HPLC analysis and for the dyeing with its fastness and colour measurements, to value the results in the arithmetic average of 2 samples. 4.1. Materials The residue of orange peels and carrots were from the local juice company Brämhults Juice AB, Borås. Orange peel Valencia from Egypt and small amounts from Mexico, Tunisia and Spain and carrots from the Nantes family from Gotland, Sweden were used for the βcarotene extraction. The orange peel residues were 0,5 – 2 cm and the carrot residue was 0,1– 0,2 cm big when received from the juice company. The organic solvents used for the βcarotene extraction were: ethanol absolute (>99,8%) from VWR International (preliminary tests), ethyl acetate (≥99.9%) and a mixture of acetone (≥99.9%) and hexane (≥97.0%), all HPLC grade and petroleum ether, spectrophotometric grade (all chemicals if not other mentioned were from Sigma Aldrich). A bleached and mercerized cotton weave fabric (150 g/m2) was used for the dyeing process. The mordants that were used are potassium aluminium sulphate (potassium alum) (KAl(SO4 )2 ×12H2O) and ferrous sulphate (FeSO × 7H O) from Sigma Aldrich. Auxiliaries 4 2 used for the dyeing process were sodium chloride as electrolyte addition, Zenit Levelling agent S from Zenit AB Sweden, dispersing agent Lyocol RDN fl. from Clariant Germany, sodium hydroxide 25% (NaOH) and acetic acid 25% for the pH regulation. 16 Master thesis by Susan Hecker 4.2. Drying of the carrot and orange peel residue For drying a desiccator silica with silica gel was used. The drying was done to remove the water from the residue to make sure that only the residue without any water was used for the further extraction. The samples were dried in a dark place to prevent degradation of the β-carotene due to light exposure. The drying was continued until the dry matter weight was Figure 7: Desiccator silica under vacuum containing orange peel and carrot pieces not changing anymore to be sure all moisture was removed from the samples. To achieve a higher surface area the dried The orange peel and carrot were dried orange peel and carrot pieces were under vacuum with a vacuum pump RV12 ground in a porcelain mortar after the from Edwards of 200 V before extracted. drying. Figure 8: Grinding dried orange peel and carrots in a mortar Master thesis by Susan Hecker 17 4.3. Extraction method ethyl acetate in a sample/solvent ratio of 1:15. The amounts of dried residue and solvent used for the HPLC samples and the dyestuff extraction were listed in the table below. The dried ground samples were mixed together with the solvent. The mixture was kept at room temperature under magnetic stirring for 30 min. After filtration (Munktell filter paper, grade 3) the Figure 9: Extraction from carrots in petroleum ether solvent was evaporated using rotary evaporator Büchi Rotavapor R-114 with Organic solvent extraction was used to Büchi Waterbath B-480 and an Edwards extract from vacuum pump R12 of 200 V. First the orange peels and carrots residue. The HPLC samples were done and after their organic solvent extraction was carried out analysis the dyestuff extraction for the with the solvents: hexane and acetone dyeing was continued. From each sample mixture (1:1 v/v), petroleum ether and 2 the β-carotene dyestuff duplicates were done. Table 3: Amounts of the dried residues (g) and solvents (ml) that were used for the HPLC samples and the dyestuff extraction for the cotton dyeing. Solvents HPLC samples Dyestuff extraction Ethyl acetate 5 g dried orange peel or carrot Ethyl acetate was not used for the dyestuff extraction due to the lowest yield of β-carotene 75 ml solvent Petroleum ether Hexane/acetone determined by HPLC. 5 g dried orange peel or carrot 27 g dried carrot 75 ml solvent 400 ml solvent 5 g dried orange peel or carrot 27 g dried orange peel 75 ml solvent 400 ml solvent mixture Master thesis by Susan Hecker 17 4.4. Analysis of the dyestuff, purity and yield The spectrum for β-carotene was determined at 450 nm. For its standard curve 4 different concentrations of β-carotene (β-carotene standard, synthetic ≥95%, HPLC grade, crystalline from Sigma Aldrich) in hexane/ acetone (1:1 v/v) were made spectrophotometrically in a Biochrom Libra from Nordic Biolabs. The concentrations for the standard curve were 0,033, 0,0056, 0,00093 and 0,00015 mg/ml of β-carotene. Reverse Phase High Performance Liquid Chromatography (RP-HPLC) was used to analyse β-carotene in the extracts and to determine the purity and the yield. 2 x 6 samples were analysed. β-carotene analysis was realized by a Waters Alliance Seperation Module 2695, with a UV detector, Refractive Index Detector 2414 at 450 nm. The column was a C18 Sunfire reverse phase column from Waters, 4,6 mm × 250 mm; 5,0 µm particle size and pore size 100 Å. The mobile phase was a methanol and acetonitrile (9:1 v/v) mixture. The flow rate was 1,0 ml/min. β-carotene standard, synthetic ≥95%, HPLC grade, crystalline from Sigma Aldrich was used. The standard for the HPLC was prepared in the concentrations 0,033, 0,025 and 0,0167 mg/ml. With help of the standard curve the concentration of βcarotene in the extracts was calculated to draw conclusions from how much β-carotene could be extracted per grams of carrots or orange peel and how much β-carotene was used for the dyeing of cotton fabric. The 12 samples for the RP-HPLC analysis were diluted with 6 ml of the used solvents for each extraction. 4.5. Cotton dyeing A reactive dyeing method in a dye bath ratio of 1:50 (sample/dye bath g/ml) was applied. The sample size was 10 cm x 5,5 cm. The size was big enough to cut a sample for the washing test of the size 10 cm x 4 cm and a sample for the light fastness test of the size 7 cm x 1,5 cm. The rest of the sample was used as a reference sample to compare the colour changes after the fastness property tests. The dye: The dye used for the cotton fabric dyeing is named β-carotene dyestuff of carrot or orange peel residue in the following work. The extracts achieved by organic solvent extraction were used without any modifications. The two highest yields of the β-carotene extraction of orange peel and carrot residue were used for the dyeing. The petroleum ether 18 Master thesis by Susan Hecker extract from carrots and the hexane/acetone mixture extract from orange peel. The dyes consists of the extracted β-carotene in known yield (determined by the RP-HPLC analysis) and the by literature determined compounds α-carotene and zeaxanthin. Besides this allocated compounds, the β-carotene dyestuff of orange peel residue contains flavonoids, phenolic acids, pectin and waxes. Table 4: Composition of the used β-carotene dyestuff of carrot and orange peel residue that was used for the dyeing of 0,8 g cotton fabric. Dye name β-carotene dyestuff Containing β- Containing carotene amount compounds determined by RP- determined by HPLC analysis literature 10,5 mg α-carotene and of carrot residue β-carotene dyestuff Other compounds - zeaxanthin 0,1 mg of orange peel residue α-carotene and Flavonoids, phenolic zeaxanthin acids, pectin and waxes After the evaporation of the solvent the dye was left in the rotary evaporator beakers. The amount for both extracts (carrot and orange peel) was so less that it was impossible to remove the dye by a spoon. The chosen way to remove the dye from the glass beaker walls, was to solve it in the rotary evaporator beakers. Half of the water amount used for the dye bath (20 ml) was added to the beakers together with the 8 ml sodium hydroxide. The sodium hydroxide showed in pre tests that it helps the extract to solve in the water. It could be observed that the β-carotene dyestuff of orange peel residue solved readily whereas βcarotene dyestuff of carrot residue needed to be warmed in a water bath together with the glass beaker. Additionally the extract was scratch from the glass walls with a spattle. The dyeing pistons were each prepared with the additives: 1,2 g sodium chloride, 4 ml levelling agent, 0,2 ml dispersing agent and 0,8 g cotton fabric. Then the solved dye was added to the piston. The rest of 20 ml water was to rinse the rotary evaporator bakers once more, to be sure, that all dye was removed form the beaker. Acetic acid 25 % was added to the piston until the pH between 4-5 was reached. Master thesis by Susan Hecker 19 Table 5: Final dye receipt. Amount per litre water and the calculated amount that was used for the dyeing of 0,8 g cotton fabric is listed. Chemical/Additives Amount per litre Calculated amount used for the water dyeing of 0,8 g cotton fabric Cotton - 0,8 g Water (tap water) - 40 ml β-carotene dyestuff of carrot Defined in table 4 residue β-carotene dyestuff of Defined in table 4 orange peel residue Salt 30 g/l 1,2 g Levelling agent 10% 20 ml/l 4 ml Dispersing agents, lyocol 5 ml/l 0,2 ml 200 ml/l 8 ml RDN 10% Sodium hydroxide 25 % The samples were dyed in a dyeing machine, Pyro Tec MB 2 from Roaches International Ltd. at 60°C for 60 min. with a rate of 2°C/min. After dyeing the samples were rinsed in cold water and dried in a dryer. 4.6. Spectrophotometric measurements Spectrophotometric measurements of the dyed samples were done with a Datacolor CHECK Pro and evaluated by the Datacolor TOOLS software from Datacolor. The measured values were the average of 5 measurements. As standard illuminate D65/10 (daylight) was used and a tolerance of CMC 2:1. The values measured were K/S Kubelka Munk, which can be seen a colour strength or colour uptake, the CIE colour parameters for lightness-darkness L*, red-green a*, blue-yellow b*, chroma C*, hue h and ΔE. Where ΔE describes the colour 20 Master thesis by Susan Hecker difference between the uncoloured bleached and mercerized cotton weave with coloured ones. The Datacolor TOOLS software automatically calculated all values. 4.7. Fastness properties tests Two fastness property tests were done on the dyed cotton samples. Xenon test (ISO-Norm B02) and wash fastness test (ISO 105 – C). 4.7.1. Xenon test (ISO-Norm B02) To determine the light fastness of the dyed cotton fabric xenon test according to ISO-Norm B02 was done. The prepared samples had the size 1,5 x 7 cm. The samples were rayed by xenon arc light up to grade 4 and analysed in D65 illuminate. 4.7.2. Wash fastness test (ISO 105 – C) The wash fastness was ascertained by a wash fastness test according to ISO 105 – C. The sample was together with an additional adjacent fabric, a multistripe with 6 different fabric samples (diacetate, cotton, polyamide, polyester. acryl and wool) washed for 30 min at 60°C, with 50 ml of detergent solution (4 g detergent /l). 25 steel balls were added. A common household detergent was used as washing liquid. The washed samples were rinsed and dried. Afterwards the dyed cotton samples were analysed on colour change and the multistripe adjacent fabrics were analysed on staining with the 5 grades grey-white scale in D65 illuminate. Master thesis by Susan Hecker 21 5. Results and discussion The following chapter lists the results and interprets them in graphs, tables and explanations. Some of the results are further analysed to become clearer. The results are the arithmetic average of 2 samples done for the HPLC analysis and for the dyeing with its fastness and colour measurements. Preliminary test showed that ethanol and water as solvents are not suitable for β-carotene extraction due to their polar character (see Attachment I). 5.1. Determination of β-carotene spectrum The determination of the spectrum was done in the range of 190 – 500 nm to determine the visible range of β-carotene. The identified wavelength was at 450 nm that is confirmed by literature (Bauernfeind, 1981). Figure 10: Graph of the determined wavelength of β-carotene at 450 nm. 22 Master thesis by Susan Hecker 5.2. Results of the RP-HPLC analysis The following graph shows the HPLC-standard curve for β-carotene. 1600000 y = 41,479,150.34x R² = 1.00 1400000 1200000 Area 1000000 800000 600000 400000 200000 0 0 0.01 0.02 0.03 Concentration (mg/ml) 0.04 Figure 11: HPLC-standard curve of β-carotene The standard or calibration curve was done by three different concentrations of β-carotene in mg per ml solvent. Those are listed in the table below together with the area. The standard curve proceeds linearly. Table 6: Three different concentrations used for the HPLC-standard curve Sample Area Concentration (mg/mL) Standard 1 1389337 0,034 Standard 2 1019366 0,025 Standard 3 704341 0,0167 Master thesis by Susan Hecker 23 The RP-HPLC analysis identified clearly β-carotene in the extracts of carrot and orange peel at a retention time around 55 min (Figure 12-13) and a purity of more than 50 % in the carrot extract. The differences in the orange peel and carrot extract were the amount of other compounds that were shown by the HPLC. An identification of the other main compounds was done with help of literature. RP-HPLC analysis in this work was based on the article by Ben-Amotz and Fishier (1998). Due to their work other peaks besides β-carotene were allocated. They identified three main peaks of carrots: β-, α-carotene and zeaxanthin. According to them β-carotene showed the highest area and zeaxanthin the lowest. Another compound with a very low area was lutein. With the determined retention times in the HPLC graphs of the carrot extract compounds, these three compounds could be identified in the orange peel samples as well (Figure 12, 13). The purity of carotenes in the extract is with an area of β- and α-carotene of more than 90 % and less other compounds very high. Besides the allocated compounds (α-, β-carotene and zeaxanthin) orange peel contains flavonoids, phenolic acids, pectin and waxes (Wang et al., 2008). Figure 12: HPLC graph at 450 nm showing β-carotene, α-carotene and zeaxanthin extracted from carrot residue Figure 13: HPLC graph at 450 nm showing β-carotene, α-carotene and zeaxanthin extracted from orange peel residue 24 Master thesis by Susan Hecker There was no significant difference in the purity and amount between the different solvents. The lowest amount of β-carotene was extracted by ethyl acetate with 0,26 mg/g of carrots and 0,0027 mg/g of orange peel. The highest amount of β-carotene from carrots was extracted by petroleum ether with 0,39 mg/g and from orange peel respectively with 0,0036 mg/g from petroleum ether and hexane/acetone mixture, (Table 4). Table 7: β-carotene content in carrots and orange peel (mg/g of carrots or orange peel) Organic solvent Carrots Orange peel Ethyl acetate 0,26 0,0027 Petroleum ether 0,39 0,0036 Hexane/acetone (1:1 v/v) 0,30 0,0036 The extracted amount varies only minimal between the different solvents. The highest extraction yield for both carrot and orange peel residue, achieved petroleum ether. Whereas the difference to the lowest extraction yield with ethyl acetate is only minimal for carrot and orange peel extracted β-carotene. The amount of extracted β-carotene increased with decreasing polarity of the solvents. Neither water as a polar solvent nor ethanol as an organic solvent is suitable for extracting the non-polar β-carotene. No relevant peaks were allocated at a wavelength of 450 nm with the HPLC of these extracts. Hence nor or too less β-carotene or other carotenes were extracted. The same result was obtained by Dumbravă et al. (2010) the extracted amount with ethanol from orange peel was to low for determination in a visible range. Ethanol has a quite low relative solubility of ethanol for β-carotene with 30 mg/L (Craft and Soares, 1992) compared with the used solvents (ethyl acetate, petroleum ether and hexane/acetone) were acetone had the lowest relative solubility with 200 mg/L and hexane the highest with 600 mg/L. From the article by Yi and Yoo (2010) can be assumed that mostly flavonoids are extracted by ethanol. The selection of the solvents was done under the criteria of the polarity of the solvent and the boiling point. For the evaporation of the solvent in the rotary evaporator it is important that Master thesis by Susan Hecker 25 the solvents boiling temperature is as low as possible. Degradation of heat sensitive βcarotene is therefore avoided. To solve the non-polar β-carotene, solvents of the same character were used with the exception of the hexane and acetone mixture. A mixture of the non-polar solvent hexane and the polar solvent acetone helped to extract the highest amount of natural β-carotene. According to Ghazi (1999) “…naturally occurring carotenoids are found inside cells and surrounded by an aqueous protoplasmic medium, so acetone can bind water and force carotene to be out of solution.“ 5.3. Mordanting and Dyeing Preliminary test showed that mordanting with ferrous sulphate adulterated the light shades of β-carotene dye on cotton. The differentiation between ferrous sulphates own colour in orange-red shades and orange shades of β-carotene dyestuff of carrot and orange peel residue is difficult. This state of investigation is only based on the original colour of βcarotene dyestuff of carrot and orange peel residue on cotton. Therefore the research on ferrous sulphate as mordant was not investigated further. The results for the vat dyeing method (see appendix II) of cotton with β-carotene dyestuff of carrot and orange peel residue extracted by the organic solvents ethyl acetate and hexane/acetone did not show any colour uptake of the cotton. The vat dyeing bath was at room temperature around 20°C. That had the consequence that the cotton fabric was barley coloured because the colour pigments didn’t diffuse into the fibre. When changing the method vat dyeing in reactive dyeing where the cotton fabric was dyed in the same concentration and the ratio 1:40 at 80°C for 90 min, the fabric didn´t show any colour uptake. The reason for this might be that at the temperature of 80°C the β-carotene degraded or oxidized and the colour was destructed. Regarding the results from the HPLC analysis the dyeing was done by the highest concentration of β-carotene achieved. That was for carrots with petroleum ether as solvent and for orange peel with hexane and acetone mixture. The extracts achieved by the organic solvent extraction were not further modified. The composition of the dye is listed in table 4. According to Ali et al. (2009) the best colour and fastness results for a mordanted cotton 26 Master thesis by Susan Hecker fabric in colour coordinates L*, a*, b*, C*, h*, wash and light fastness was achieved by post mordanting with 10% of alum owf of cotton. Fair dyeing results were achieved with the dyeing at 60°C for 60min. The dye results on cotton fabric with β-carotene dyestuff of carrot and orange peel residue are shown in figure 14-15. The same adjustments gave good results in the dyeing of cotton with unripe Citrus grandis Osbeck extract done by Yi and Yoo (2010). Figure 14: β-carotene dyestuff of carrot residue, dyed on cotton, mordanted and unmordanted Figure 15: β-carotene dyestuff of orange peel residue, dyed on cotton, mordanted and unmordanted The pH of the dye solution was adjusted to 4-5 were the β-carotene is according to Qian et al. (2012) stable. The goods – dye bath ratio was 1:50. The dyed cotton fabric was for both β-carotene dyes fairly even dyed. Even though the β-carotene concentration of the dyed cotton with β-carotene dyestuff of orange peel residue is 100 times lower (0,1 mg β-carotene is contained in the dyestuff) than the concentration in the β-carotene dyestuff of carrot residue dyed samples (10,5 mg) their colour uptake ΔE is higher (Table 8-9). This might be due to the different compounds that the β-carotene dyestuff of orange peel residue contains. Master thesis by Susan Hecker 27 The different compounds might have more functional groups and a better absorbency on the cotton fibres than the β-carotene itself has. The β-carotene that is mostly present in the βcarotene dyestuff of carrot residue has a lack of functional groups that makes it difficult to absorb on the cotton fibres, which resulted in a lower colour uptake indicated by ΔE. 5.4. Spectrophotometric colour measurements The β-carotene dyestuff of carrot residue, dyed cotton fabric was dyed in a yellow-reddish shade. The cotton fabric was evenly dyed. Compared to the lower concentrations of levelling agent in some preliminary tests the evenness of the colour was good with 100ml/l for both βcarotene dyestuffs. The levelling agent lowered the rate of absorption of the β-carotene dyestuff of carrot and orange peel residue on the cotton fabric, which resulted in a more evenly dyed substrate. The results for the colorimetric measurements of cotton weave fabric, dyed with β-carotene dyestuff of carrot residue are given in table 5. The measurements were done by the CIE colour system. The K/S values were for both unmordanted and mordanted samples the same. The post mordanted samples were little bit lighter in colour due to the slightly higher L* value. However the L* values for both unmordanted and mordanted samples were high compared to the low values of C*. Considering both values L* and C* together the shades of β-carotene dyestuff of carrot residue dyed cotton weave fabric were light and weak in colour saturation. The a* and b* values indicate the shades of reddish yellow. The mordanted samples were compared to the unmordanted samples slightly more colour saturated (C*) and the mordant bind more dyestuff on the cotton fabric means more colour absorbed on the cotton fabric (ΔE). The shade is more yellowish and less reddish. Table 8: Colour coordination of the dyed cotton fabrics with carrot extract Carrot K/S L* a* b* C* h* ΔE Unmordant 0,15 85,65 8,37 12,13 14,76 55,50 25,99 Alum post mordant 0,15 88,25 6,31 14,78 16,07 66,90 26,92 28 Master thesis by Susan Hecker The ΔE shows that the colouration of β-carotene dyestuff of orange peel residue dyed on cotton is higher than the colouration with β-carotene dyestuff of carrot residue. This might be due to the higher amount of different compounds extracted from the orange peel. The different compounds have different molecule sizes and functional groups and therefore a different affinity to absorb on cotton fibres. Whereas in the β-carotene dyestuff of carrot residue most compounds are - and β-carotene, which have due to the lack of functional groups a lower affinity to cotton fibres. Table 9: Colour coordination of the dyed cotton fabrics with orange peel extract Orang-peel K/S L* a* b* C* h* ΔE Unmordant 0,31 90,32 -1,68 27,86 27,91 93,40 39,20 Alum post mordant 0,40 88,96 -3,16 27,49 27,67 96,54 39,25 The results for the colorimetric measurements of cotton weave fabric dyed with β-carotene dyestuff of orange peel residue are given in table 6. The measurements were as well done by the CIE colour system. The shade of orange peel extract dyed on cotton fabric was greenish yellow. The cotton fabric was evenly dyed. The colour uptake (ΔE) was for the mordanted samples again slightly higher than for the unmordanted samples. The mordant alum increased the absorption of the dyestuff molecules on the cotton fabric. The colour strength K/S is higher for the mordanted samples. The unmordanted samples were compared with the post mordanted samples with alum slightly lighter due to their higher L* value. The C* values for colour saturation were for the post mordanted samples little lower, which means the colour saturation decreases with mordanting. Considering both values L* and C* the shades of both unmordanted and mordanted cotton fabric dyed with orange peel extract are light and weak in shade. The slight negative values of a* and the more positive b* values indicate shades of greenish yellow and slightly more greenish and less yellowish for the mordanted samples. Master thesis by Susan Hecker 29 5.5. Results of the wash fastness test (ISO 105 – C) The results for the wash fastness test according to ISO 105-C are given in the table below. Grade range from 1-5, where 1 is very bad and 5 very good. Table 10: Results of the wash fastness test of unmordanted and post mordanted (alum) dyed cotton fabrics of orange peel and carrot extract. Orange peel Carrots Colour change Staining Colour change Staining Unmordant 1-2 4-5 1 4-5 Alum post mordant 1-2 4-5 1 4-5 The results for the colour change of unmordanted and mordanted samples dyed with βcarotene dyestuff of orange peel residue were of grade 1-2. Most of the colour was washed away by the washing test. The samples were partially coloured after the test in much lighter and weaker colour saturation. The results for the colour change of β-carotene dyestuff of carrot residue dyed cotton fabrics were only a grade 1. Almost no colour was left on the cotton samples after washing at 60°C for 30 min. Whereas the colour change gave poor results for both β-carotene dyestuff of carrot and orange peel residue dyed on cotton fabric the staining results were with the grades 4-5 for all samples very good. The poor results for colour change of the washing test for both β-carotene dyestuffs of carrot and orange peel residue dyed on cotton weave fabric is interpreted by the lack of functional groups and the relative small molecule sizes of the β-carotene dye and their consequential low affinity towards the textile fibres (Marx, 2011). Yi and Yoo (2010) achieved same results for orange peel dyestuff. Their poorest washing grade was for a dye concentration of 100 % owf that was increased to a grade 4 for a dye concentration of 800 % owf. A possibility to improve the wash fastness properties could be the increase of dye concentration as done by Yi and Yoo (2010). 30 Master thesis by Susan Hecker 5.6. Results of the xenon test (ISO-Norm B02) The xenon test samples are graded between the ranges from 1-8, where 1 is very bad and 8 is very good. The results are listed in the table below. Table 11: Results of the xenon light fastness test of unmordanted and post mordanted (alum) dyed cotton fabrics of orange peel and carrot extract. Orange peel Carrots Unmordant 3 2 Alum post mordant 4 3 The light fastness properties of β-carotene dyestuff of carrot residue dyed on cotton (2 for unmordanted and 3 for mordanted samples) were poorer compared to the β-carotene dyestuff of orange peel residue dyed samples. The results for β-carotene dyestuff of orange peel residue were reasonable, with the grade 3 for unmordanted and 4 for mordanted samples. The light fastness was improved by post mordanting the samples. The mordanted samples of both β-carotene dyestuffs of carrot and orange peel residue were compared with their unmordanted counterparts each with 1 grade better. The poorer results of the light fastness for β-carotene dyestuff of carrot residue could be interpreted due to the high sensitivity of β-carotene in light exposure and its higher and purer amount in this dye compared with the β-carotene dyestuff of orange peel residue (Liaaen-Jensen, 1989). In its natural form β-carotene is higher concentrated for example in carrots and it is surrounded by proteins that can keep it more stable (Bauernfeind, 1981). Another reason is the small molecule size and the resulting lower affinity towards the cotton fibres (Marx, 2011). The research by Saleh et al. (2013) (explained in the literature on p. 10 ) showed great promise that dyeing on cotton fabric with the dyestuff containing; chlorophyll a, and b and βcarotene extracted from banana leaves by acetone is possible. They concluded that the dyeing resulted in high colour strength, and high fastness properties. Comparing their results of unmordanted samples with the results in this report (also unmordanted samples) in colour Master thesis by Susan Hecker 31 strength and fastness properties, a conflict arises. The K/S values were with 0,52 higher compared to the results of β-carotene dyestuff of carrot residue with 0,15 and β-carotene dyestuff of orange peel residue with 0,31. The lightness L* is lower with a value of 77,01 compared to 90,32, (β-carotene dyestuff of orange peel residue) and 85,65 (β-carotene dyestuff of carrot residue). They concluded a light fastness of grade 4 whereas this report graded 3 for β-carotene dyestuff of orange peel residue and grade 2 for β-carotene dyestuff of carrot residue. The wash fastness test at 40°C gave a grade of 4 and in this report 1-2 (βcarotene dyestuff of orange peel residue) and 1 (β-carotene dyestuff of carrot residue) was achieved. Neither high colour strength nor high fastness properties could be concluded in this report and made the initial evidence that the dyeing on cotton with β-carotene dyestuff could work invalid. 32 Master thesis by Susan Hecker 6. Conclusions The work showed that the organic solvent extraction of β-carotene from orange peel and carrots residue from the juice pressing industry is possible. The three different organic solvents; ethyl acetate, petroleum ether and hexane/acetone mixture were chosen for the extraction of β-carotene. Amongst them petroleum ether was slightly better for the βcarotene extraction from both orange peel and carrot residue due to its strong non-polar character. The dyeing with β-carotene dyestuff of carrot and orange peel residue is only reasonable possible and might not be an alternative for the dyeing industry, due to its poor fastness properties and the unstable character of the β-carotene molecule to light and heat exposure. The lack of functional groups in the β-carotene molecule made it difficult or impossible for it to absorb on the cotton fibres and to achieve fair fastness properties. The used mordant alum could increase the light fastness of both dyes with 1 grade, but not the wash fastness. In general the further use of residues of the juice pressing industry for textile dye extraction might be a valuable source for textile dyestuffs. The further usage of the residues might be a value-adding step for the waste that would otherwise only be used as fodder or biogas production. Master thesis by Susan Hecker 33 7. Future research The work showed that dyeing with β-carotene dyestuff of carrot and orange peel residue from the juice pressing industry is only reasonable possible. The lack of functional groups in the β-carotene dyestuff molecule makes the dyeing on cotton fabric difficult. An HPLC analysis of the dyed cotton fabric could detect, which of the extracted compounds were really absorbed on the fabric. It would be interesting to investigate if other fibres can improve the fastness properties. Fibres such as wool (protein fibres) that are commonly used for the dyeing with natural extracts due to their acid and alkaline functional groups, polypropylene that has a low Tg at 35°C and is mostly suitable for fat- and oil soluble dyestuffs or polyester (dyed with carriers to keep a low dyeing temperature). The extraction of other compounds from residues of the juice pressing industry, which own more functional groups, might be possible for the further work. Compounds such as xantophylls (lutein or zeaxanthin) that belong to the group of carotenoids with hydrophilic character could be a better dyestuff for cotton dyeing than β-carotene containing dyestuffs with hydrophobic character. 34 Master thesis by Susan Hecker References ALI, S., HUSSAIN, T. & NAWAZ, R. 2009. 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Handbook of organic solvent properties, New York, Arnold. WALLNER, A. & WENISCH, A. 2011. Colors of Nature Pflanzenfarbstoff in der Praxis. Berichte aus Energie- und Umweltforschung. D V V , Innovation und Technologie. WANG, Y.-C., CHUANG, Y.-C. & HSU, H.-W. 2008. The flavonoid, carotenoid and pectin content in peels of citrus cultivated in Taiwan. Food Chemistry, 106, 277-284. YI, E. & YOO, E. S. 2010. A novel bioactive fabric dyed with unripe Citrus grandis Osbeck extract part 1: dyeing properties and antimicrobial activity on cotton knit fabrics. Textile Research Journal, 80, 2117-2123. Master thesis by Susan Hecker 37 APPENDIX Master thesis by Susan Hecker I APPENDIX I Aqueous extraction a) Carrots 20 g carrots (ground in the Kenwood blender until the pieces were ca. 1 mm) 200 ml tap water All together was put in an Erlenmeyer flask and heated up in a water bath to 100°C for 1 h. Stirring with magnetic stirring at level 7. After 1 hours filtration (Büchner funnel) Rotary evaporator: Evaporation of the water in the rotary evaporator at 40°C. Storage of the residue (oily, caramelized liquid) in small glass bottles in no light. b) Orange peel 20 g orange peel (ground in the Kenwood blender until the pieces were ca. 1 mm) 200 ml tap water All together was put in an Erlenmeyer flask and heated up in a water bath to 100°C for 1 h. Stirring with magnetic stirring at level 7. After 1 hours filtration (Büchner funnel) Rotary evaporator: II Evaporation of the water in the rotary evaporator at 40°C. Storage of the residue (oily, caramelized liquid) in small glass bottles in no light. Master thesis by Susan Hecker Organic solvents extraction with ethanol a) Carrots 20 g carrots (as got from Brämhults juice; ground state) 200 ml 80 % aqueous ethanol solution (800 ml ethanol: 200 ml H2O) All together was put in an Erlenmeyer flask and heated up in a water bath to 60°C for 4 h. Stirring with magnetic stirring at level 7. After 4 hours filtration (Büchner funnel) Rotary evaporator: Evaporation of the solvent (ethanol) in the rotary evaporator at 40°C. Solve the residue with distilled water and evaporate the water again in the rotary evaporator. Storage of the residue (oily, caramelized liquid) in small glass bottles in no light. b) Orange peel 20 g orange peel (ground in the Kenwood blender until the pieces were ca. 1 mm) 200 ml 80% aqueous ethanol solution (800 ml ethanol: 200 ml H2O) All together was put in an Erlenmeyer flask and heated up in a water bath to 60°C for 4 h. Stirring with magnetic stirring at level 7. After 4 hours filtration (Büchner funnel) Rotary evaporator: Evaporation of the solvent (ethanol) in the rotary evaporator at 40°C. Solve the residue with distilled water and evaporate the water again in the rotary evaporator. Storage of the residue (oily, caramelized liquid) in small glass bottles in no light. Master thesis by Susan Hecker III Results of the HPLC analysis The following table and graphs show the result of the HPLC analysis of β-carotene by aqueous and ethanol extraction. For both solvents the β-carotene content was not extracted or too low for the detection in the visible light at a wavelength of 450 nm. Table 12: β-carotene content in carrots and orange peel (μg/g) Solvent Carrots Orange peel Water 0 0 80 % aqueous ethanol solution 0 0 Figure 16: HPLC from carrot extract in aqueous solution at 450 nm Figure 17: HPLC from orange peel extract in aqueous solution at 450 nm Figure 18: HPLC from carrot extract in 80 % aqueous ethanol solution at 450 nm IV Master thesis by Susan Hecker Figure 19: HPLC from orange peel in 80 % aqueous ethanol solution at 450 nm Master thesis by Susan Hecker V APPENDIX II Chemical structures of the solvents used Chemical structure of ethyl acetate: Chemical structure of acetone: Chemical structure of hexane: VI Master thesis by Susan Hecker APPENDIX III Vat dye Mercerized and bleached cotton was dyed as vat dye with the following parameters. First the stock vat was made in a warm water bath to solve the sodium hydrosulphide. Then it was add to the dye bath together with the fabric. Under magnetic stirring it was left for 10 min, then it was oxidized in the air for around 5 min. This procedure was repeated 2-3 times. All four samples didn´t show a recognizable colouration. Table 13: Different parameters for vat dyeing on cotton fabric Sample 1 Sample 2 Sample 3 Sample 4 Residue Solvent Carrot Orange peel Carrot Orange peel Ethyl acetate Ethyl acetate Hexane/acetone Hexane/acetone Cotton sample weight 2,9 g 1,7 g 0,4 g 0,5 g Organic solvent (ethyl acetate or hexane/acetone (1:1 v/v) β-carotene Water 50°C Sodium hydroxide 25 % Sodium hydrosulphide 4 ml 1,3 mg/g 10 ml 1 ml 0,6 g 4 ml 0,014 mg/g 10 ml 1 ml 0,6 g 4 ml 1,5 mg/g 10 ml 1 ml 0,6 g 4 ml 0,018 mg/g 10 ml 1 ml 0,6 g Dye bath Water ca. 20°C Sodium hydroxide 25% Sodium hydrosulphide Sodium chloride Stock vat 300 ml 0,1 ml 0,1 g 10 g ca. 15 ml 100 ml 0,1 ml 0,1 g 10 g ca. 15 ml 100 ml 0,1 ml 0,1 g 15 g ca. 15 ml 50 ml 0,1 ml 0,1 g 5g ca. 15 ml Stock vat Heated in water bath at ca. 60°C Master thesis by Susan Hecker VII APPENDIX IV HPLC results The following table 20-31 show the results of the HPLC for the analysis of β-carotene. The retention time is around 56 min. for all samples and the area is between 32.635 – 162.668 for orange peel and 8.634.783 – 16.041.328 for carrot. There are two samples of each solvent. In the report the calculations for the concentration and the used β-carotene for dyeing was done based on the average value of this two samples. Table 14: Results of the determination of β-carotene by HPLC Sample 1 7 3 9 2 8 Residue Orange peel Orange peel Orange peel Orange peel Orange peel Orange peel Solvent Ethyl acetate Ethyl acetate Hexane/acetone Hexane/acetone Petroleum ether Petroleum ether Retention Time 55,40 56,22 56,62 56,06 56,65 56,10 Area 32.635 152.876 162.668 86.549 111.816 142.022 Concentration (mg/mL) 0,001 0,004 0,004 0,002 0,003 0,003 4 10 6 12 5 11 Carrot Carrot Carrot Carrot Carrot Carrot Ethyl acetate Ethyl acetate Hexane/acetone Hexane/acetone Petroleum ether Petroleum ether 56,45 56,07 56,32 56,03 56,31 56,03 8.634.783 9.135.152 10.856.273 10.454.314 10.747.621 16.041.328 0,207 0,219 0,260 0,247 0,258 0,393 The HPLC graphs of each sample at the wavelength 450 nm are the following: Figure 20: HPLC graph of sample 1 β-carotene from orange peel, extracted in ethyl acetate VIII Master thesis by Susan Hecker Figure 21: HPLC graph of sample 7 β-carotene from orange peel, extracted in ethyl acetate Figure 22: HPLC graph of sample 3 β-carotene from orange peel, extracted in hexane/acetone Figure 23: HPLC graph of sample 9 β-carotene from orange peel, extracted in hexane/acetone Figure 24: HPLC graph of sample 2 β-carotene from orange peel, extracted in petroleum ether Master thesis by Susan Hecker IX Figure 25: HPLC graph of sample 8 β-carotene from orange peel, extracted in petroleum ether Figure 26: HPLC graph of sample 4 β-carotene from carrot, extracted in ethyl acetate Figure 27: HPLC graph of sample 10 β-carotene from carrot, extracted in hexane/acetone Figure 28: HPLC graph of sample 6 β-carotene from carrot, extracted in hexane/acetone X Master thesis by Susan Hecker Figure 29: HPLC graph of sample 12 β-carotene from carrot, extracted in hexane/acetone Figure 30: HPLC graph of sample 5 β-carotene from carrot, extracted in petroleum ether Figure 31: HPLC graph of sample 11 β-carotene from carrot, extracted in petroleum ether Master thesis by Susan Hecker XI APPENDIX V Spectrophotometric and fastness property results The following tables 12-14 show the results of all samples for the spectrophotometric measurements of colour properties, the wash fastness test after ISO 105-C and light fastness after ISO Norm B02. The values mentioned in the report are the average value of the two samples. Table 15: Colour coordination of the all dyed cotton fabrics with carrot extract Carrot K/S L* a* b* C* h* ΔE Unmordant Sample 1 0,08 89,10 9,25 11,97 15,13 52,32 24,64 Unmordant Sample 2 0,22 82,21 7,48 12,29 14,39 58,68 27,34 Alum post mordant Sample 1 0,15 87,83 6,27 14,42 15,73 66,52 26,70 Alum post mordant Sample 2 0,15 88,68 6,34 15,14 16,42 67,28 27,14 Table 16: Colour coordination of the all dyed cotton fabrics with orange peel extract Orange peel K/S L* a* b* C* h* ΔE Unmordant, sample 1 0,33 90,72 -2,19 29,61 29,69 94,23 40,92 Unmordant, sample 2 0,29 89,91 -1,17 26,11 26,14 92,57 37,49 Alum post mordant, sample 1 0,40 89,03 -3,39 27,50 27,71 97,02 39,28 Alum post mordant, sample 2 0,41 88,89 -2,92 27,48 27,64 96,07 39,22 XII Master thesis by Susan Hecker Table 17: Results of the wash fastness test of all unmordanted and post mordanted (alum) dyed cotton fabrics of orange peel and carrot extract. Orange peel Carrots Colour change Staining Colour change Staining Unmordant, sample 1 1-2 4-5 1 4-5 Unmordant, sample 2 1-2 4-5 1 4-5 Alum post mordant, sample 1 1-2 4-5 1 4-5 Alum post mordant sample 2 1-2 4-5 1 4-5 Table 18: Results of the light fastness test of all unmordanted and post mordanted (alum) dyed cotton fabrics of orange peel and carrot extract. Orange peel Carrots Unmordant, sample 1 2-3 2 Unmordant, sample 2 4 colour darkend 2 Alum post mordant, sample 1 4 3 Alum post mordant sample 2 4 3 Master thesis by Susan Hecker XIII
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