LOMBOK
September 26-29, 2015
Subhojit Chakladar
INTRODUCTION
Situated just east of the Wallace’s Line, Lombok marks the beginning of the ‘exotics of exotics’ of
birding in terms of rarely seen endemics. Ever since my visit to Indonesia 5 years ago, I’ve steadily
ventured eastwards. Lombok is the natural extension of that quest and my 3 rd trip to Indonesia in
the last year. As with other parts of Indonesia, there is rampant deforestation and bird trapping
which makes spotting the key species particularly challenging. Birding as a result can be slow at
times but Lombok is still open for ornithological exploration, especially in certain isolated patch of
habitats that have survived (for the time being) the usual tourist rush and the chainsaws. From the
air, the true extent of the effects of deforestation is apparent. However, a new group of educated
locals are making an effort to preserve what is left by raising awareness in the local communities
about the need for conservation and promoting sustainable eco-tourism. Hence, visiting Lombok
allows one to be a part of this positive change, which will hopefully prevail in the long run.
LOGISTICS
I left the logistics to Ale ([email protected]). The itinerary was fixed after a couple of email
exchanges. Ale is a very capable birder himself with good knowledge of many habitats that would
be very difficult to reach otherwise. On top of that he proved to be excellent company and made
sure I sampled the local delicacies (what more can you want!). The trip also included camping in
the primary forest for one night in order to study and observe Chestnut-backed Thrush – a bird
which is becoming increasingly difficult to see due to rampant trapping. Everything went very
smoothly and I’d highly recommend Ale to any visiting birder. He took care of everything from
picking me up from the airport to dropping me off in time for my out-bound flight – letting me
enjoy the birds and the whole Lombok experience.
I travelled to Lombok from Denpasar, Bali. Lion/Wings Air has several daily flights. The flight to
Lombok was on time but the return flight was delayed by about 2 hours, so if you have onwards
international connection, include plenty of buffer time. Also note that sometimes flights can leave
earlier than scheduled! So checking in early also helps.
SEPTEMBER 26
I arrived in Lombok at about 10am. We drove straight to a place called Suranadi (which is on the
way to Mataram, the capital). We birded the nearby trails and rice-fields before lunch. The streams
had a few Rufous-backed Kingfishers, one of which yielded good photos. The other bird of note
here was Tawny-breasted Parrotfinch, which constantly frustrated our efforts to get good views
but eventually we managed to get it perched still for a while. There were a few Blue-tailed Beeeaters in the sky. A distant square tailed raptor was spotted but the brief view was not enough for
definitive identification. After lunch, we headed towards Mataram, stopping at a spot to check out
Pale-headed Munias. Several hundred were seen coming to roost towards the end of the day. We
also went to the Mataram University campus to get close looks at Scaly-crowned Honeyeaters.
After sunset, we headed to Kerandangan Nature Reserve to search for Lombok’s only endemic. A
few Large-tailed Nightjars were very active and vocal at the site. So were Orange-footed
Scrubfowl. The Rinjani Scops Owl were calling right after sunset but it took us a while to get one
into view. Unexpectedly, no sooner had we got the spotlight on the owl, it flew over to a
neighboring branch and mated – what a sight!! Later, we got prolonged view of the male.
Rufous-backed Kingfisher
Tawny-breasted Parrotfinch
SEPTEMBER 27
Started before sunrise and headed towards Sembalun on the northern slopes of Mount Rinjani.
Waiting for breakfast, a couple of Red-chested Flowerpeckers, 3 Spotted Kestrels were seen. After
a warm breakfast and thick sugary coffee, we headed up the slopes towards a patch of forest. The
trail was very dry and dusty. We soon found our target bird – the Cinnamon-collared Kingfisher.
Following its call, we found it perched at almost eye-level affording some great photos. Blackbacked Fruit Dove was heard but I only managed very poor flight views. A couple of Elegant
Pittas were also seen. One of them flew up and momentarily perched on a branch over our head.
Cinnamon-collared Kingfisher
Elegant Pitta
After lunch, we headed off to explore a forested slope overlooking Rinjani. The primary aim was
to observe Chestnut-backed Thrush. I had seen one in a cage on the way at one of the road-side
stalls. We had enlisted the help of a former bird trapper (Ahmed). He acted as our main guide,
leading us first up a very steep ridge (with the dry powdery soil really making it difficult to get a
grip). Soon we reached the ridge top and things levelled out for a while. Late afternoon, the ridge
was engulfed in fog reducing visibility to a few meters. The trail was narrow and difficult to follow
without Ahmed’s help. We eventually camped on a narrow ledge inside the forest. The calls of the
thrush alerted us of their presence. Rinjani Scops Owl were also calling non-stop after dark.
SEPTEMBER 28
At dawn, we went to an almost dried up stream and waited for the thrush. While waiting a couple
of Metallic Pigeons silently perched above us. The dawn chorus was a delightful experience. Very
soon we had great views of at least 2 Chestnut-backed Thrush. One of them was initially seen
having a bath. Later both of them were seen perched on a rock. Still later one of them was seen
distantly – seemed like carrying nesting material. White-rumped Kingfisher was also heard a few
times but remained unseen in the depths of the forest.
Chestnut-backed Thrush
Birding that day pretty much ended at around 10:30 am after we broke camp and headed back
towards the village. On the way down, we saw distantly that fire had broken out on one of the
grasslands on the lower slopes of Rinjani – depressing sight indeed.
SEPTEMBER 29
At dawn, we went back to Kerandangan to look for Orange-footed Scrubfowl but drew a blank.
We did see quite a few Wallacean Drongos and an Elegant Pitta but everything was trumped by a
view on a distant tree up the opposite slope. The ranger faintly heard what sounded like an eagle
– after some head scratching, the sudden realization dawned upon us when we spotted the first
of the Flores Hawk Eagle pair. Perched at more than 500m on a tree overlooking the valley, it was
a majestic sight indeed. Ale informed me that he had seen them in courtship flights in May but
they had disappeared since then. Even after observing them for a while, we didn’t find any
evidence of nest. Buoyed by this success, we set out for the Gunung Tunak Nature Reserve on the
south coast to look for Rufous Fantail. However, even after searching for a couple hours in right
habitat, there was none to be seen. The high from the eagles was fading fast! A bit dejected we
headed out for the coastal cliffs. As we emerged from the forest on the edge of the beach, we
heard the scrubfowls – with one seen leaping over a high bush. A short walk back into the
mangrove forest revealed at least 4 Orange-footed Scrubfowls. But close and clear views were
difficult. While waiting to get better views, I observed 2 birds fly into the mid-storey behind a
tangle. Focusing my bins, I couldn’t recognize them from the back. All of a sudden, one of them
flew in and perched on a branch a few feet away – Rufous Fantail!
Rufous Fantail
It was the proverbial icing on the cake. We headed up the cliffs to look at the White-tailed
Tropicbirds that nest there. We also came across 3 species of terns feeding very close to the shore
– Black-naped (majority), Bridled (a few but standing out with their dark plumage) and a few Gullbilled (upon closer look).
LOCATIONS
Suranadi – It was our lunch-stop on the way to Mataram. Though in terms of endemics, it doesn’t
have much to offer, I had good views of Tawny-breasted Parrotfinch, which had eluded me so far.
Kerandangan – The Rinjani Scops Owl is easy here, with the owls coming right upto the ranger
station. It also has Pitta (easy), Orange-footed Scrubfowl (heard but not seen), Wallacean Drongo
(seen well apparently due the breeding season) but it’s the Flores Hawk Eagle that made this a
star site. Hopefully, the pair mates and breeds successfully and the trees survive as well.
Sembalun – We avoided the normal starting point of Rinjani treks (which is Senaru). The forest
beyond Pos I had the Cinnamon-collared Kingfisher (which has been there for a few weeks now
and probably lives there). However, the main target was a steep forested slope overlooking Rinjani
where the primary forest still survives (and devoid of tourists and hikers). It was excellent habitat
with the Chestnut-backed Thrush being the main attraction.
Gunung Tunak – Coastal forest, mangrove, cliffs and white sand beaches …. Paradise! The tourist
hordes are yet to descend upon it. But for how long?
THE TEAM
It was one of the best birding trips I’ve had. Even though bird numbers were few, most of them
were very good birds. The company was also memorable and my thanks to them. Ale for putting
everything together and running it smoothly. Raden for the jokes and handling the expedition
well. Abdul for the excellent meals at camp. Ahmed for guiding us to the thrush spot and his
hospitality.
SYSTEMATIC LIST OF SPECIES
Orange-footed Scrubfowl Megapodius reiwardt
Red Junglefowl Gallus gallus
At least 4 seen at Gunung Tunak
A female with chicks seen near camp at Sembalun
Cerulean Kingfisher Alcedo coerulescens A single bird seen near the airport
Rufous-backed Kingfisher Ceyx rufidorsa Several seen along streams in Suranadi
Collared Kingfisher Todiramphus chloris
Cinnamon-collared Kingfisher Todiramphus australasia
Excellent views on the lower slopes of
Rinjani in the forests beyond Pos I.
White-rumped Kingfisher Caridonax fulgidus
Heard from the campsite in the morning
Blue-tailed Bee-eater Merops philippinus Several seen at Suranadi and Gunung Tunak
Rainbow Bee-eater Merops orantus
Two seen near the beach at Gunung Tunak
Rusty-breasted Cuckoo Cacomantis sepulcralis Heard near camp in Sembalun towards dusk
Edible-nest Swiftlet Collocalia fuciphaga
Asian Palm Swift Cypsiurus balasiensis
Rinjani Scops Owl Otus jolandae
A pair seen mating in Kerandangan. Several heard there and
around the camp in Sembalun
Large-tailed Nightjar Caprimulgus affinis A few seen at Kerandangan and a few calling just
outside camp at Sembalun
Metallic Pigeon Columba vitiensis A pair seen early in the morning near Sembalun camp
Island Collared Dove Streptopelia bitorquata
A few seen at Gunung Tunak
Brown Cuckoo Dove Macropygia amboinensis Heard on the way to Sembalun camp
Emerald Dove Chalcophaps indica One seen flying at Kerandangan
Black-backed Fruit Dove Ptilinopus cinctus Heard in the forest beyong Pos I on Rinjani with poor
flight views
Green Imperial Pigeon Ducula aenea Faint distant calls (Probable)
Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos One seen near the airport
Gull-billed Tern Gelochelidon nilotica A few seen feeding in a mixed tern flocks near the cliffs of
Gunung Tunak
Great Crested Tern Sterna bergii Several seen from the beach at Mataram
Black-naped Tern Sterna sumatrana Several seen feeding and nesting on the cliffs of Gunung
Tunak
Bridled Tern Sterna anaethetus A few seen feeding in the mixed tern flock near the cliffs of
Gunung Tunak
Flores Hawk Eagle Spizaetus floris Distant but clear views of a pair at Kerandangan
Flores Hawk Eagle
Spotted Kestrel Falco moluccensis Several seen from the village and lower slopes of Rinjani
Javan Pond Heron Ardeola speciose One seen at a reservoir near the airport
Elegant Pitta Pitta elegans Seen and heard at Sembalun and Kerandangan
Scaly-crowned Honeyeater Lichmera lombokia Seen at several locations
Brown Honeyeater Lichmera indistincta
A few seen around the Sembalun camp
Helmeted Friarbird Philemon buceroides Poor flight views at Sembalun camp and poor perched
views at Kerandangan
Long-tailed Shrike Lanius schach Several seen from the car
Mangrove Whistler Pachycephala grisola Seen at several location from sea level upto about
1200m above sea level on the way to Sembalun camp
Large-billed Crow Corvus macrorhynchos A few seen at Sembalun
Black-naped Oriole Oriolus chinensis
A few seen flying around at Gunung Tunak
White-shouldered Triller Lalage sueurii
Seen at Sembalun and Gunung Tunak
Scarlet Minivet Pericrocotus flammeus Three birds seen at Sembalun
Wallacean Drongo Dicrurus densus Several seen at Kerandangan
Black-naped Monarch Hypothymis azurea One each at Sembalun camp and Kerandangan
Rufous Fantail Rhipidura rufifrons Two seen very well at Gunung Tunak near the beach
Chestnut-backed Thrush Zoothera dohertyi At least 2 seen very well at the Sembalun camp
Lesser Shortwing Brachypteryx leucophrys One seen well near the Sembalun camp
Snowy-browed Flycatcher Ficedula hyperythra
A few seen around the Sembalun camp
Rufous-chested Flycatcher Ficedula dumetoria
Seen at Kerandangan and Gunung Tunak
Little Pied Flycatcher Ficedula westermanni
Pied Bushchat Saxicola caprata
Seen at Sembalun camp and Kerandangan
A female seen at Gunung Tunak
Great Tit Parus major A few seen in Sembalun
Yellow-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus goiavier Mostly in Gunung Tunak
Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis Seen at multiple locations
Mountain White-eye Zosterops montanus
Lemon-bellied White-eye Zosterops chloris
Mutliple birds around the Sembalun camp
Common and seen at multiple locations
Sunda Bush Warbler Horornis vulcancia Seen well at Sembalun camp
Olive-backed Tailorbird Orthotomus sepium
Common and seen at multiple locations
Mountain Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus trivirgatus
Seen on Rinjani and Sembalun camp
Chestnut-backed Scimitar Babbler Pomatorhinus montanus Seen aroung the Sembalun camp
Red-chested Flowerpecker Dicaeum maugei Heard and seen at multiple locations
Olive-backed Sunbird Nectarinia jugularis A few seen at Suranadi
Eurasian Tree Sparrow Passer montanus
Paddyfield Pipit Anthus rufulus Two birds seen in flight on the way to Sembalun camp
Red Avadavat Amandava amandava Seen around Sembalun village
Tawny-breasted Parrotfinch Erythrura hyperythra Good views at Suranadi
Javan Munia Lonchura leucogastroides Several seen at Suranadi
Scaly-breasted Munia Lonchura punctulata
Several seen at Suranadi
Pale-headed Munia Lonchura pallida A hundred plus strong flock seen roosting near Mataram
Scaly-crowned Honeyeater