NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES
Norm Thompson
Apparel Quality Guidelines
Updated 2009
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NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES
APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES
TABLE OF CONTENTS
I.
II.
III.
INTRODUCTION
CONTACT INFORMATION ............................................................................................ 4
Technical Design & Quality .................................................................................. 4
Technical Designers............................................................................................... 4
VENDOR REQUIREMENTS............................................................................................ 5
SAMPLE TAGS ................................................................................................................. 5
PRODUCT SPECIFICATION REQUESTS ...................................................................... 5
PRE-PRODUCTION SAMPLES ....................................................................................... 6
TOP-OF-PRODUCTION GARMENTS ............................................................................ 7
REQUIRED PROCESSES BEFORE SHIPPING .............................................................. 8
PRODUCTION REQUIREMENTS................................................................................... 9
QUALITY CONTROL INSPECTION OF PRODUCTION GOODS ............................... 9
NORM THOMPSON APPAREL GUIDELINES ............................................................ 10
GENERAL
................................................................................................................ 10
MEASUREMENTS.......................................................................................................... 10
FABRICS
................................................................................................................ 10
COLOR
................................................................................................................ 10
CONSTRUCTION ........................................................................................................... 11
Stitching.................................................................................................. 11
Thread..................................................................................................... 11
Seams...................................................................................................... 11
Buttonholes............................................................................................. 11
Hems....................................................................................................... 12
Interfacing – Facing................................................................................ 12
Pockets.................................................................................................... 12
Collars..................................................................................................... 12
Plackets................................................................................................... 12
Cuffs ....................................................................................................... 12
Rib, Binding............................................................................................ 13
Waistbands/Belt loops ............................................................................ 13
FINDINGS
................................................................................................................ 13
Zippers .................................................................................................... 13
Buttons.................................................................................................... 13
Belts/Buckles .......................................................................................... 14
Shoulder pads ......................................................................................... 14
Linings .................................................................................................... 14
................................................................................................................ 14
PRESSING
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NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES
IV.
PRODUCT LABELING REQUIREMENTS ................................................................... 15
BRAND LABELS ........................................................................................................... 15
SIZE TAB LABELS......................................................................................................... 15
CARE & CONTENT LABELS........................................................................................ 15
Care Label Ruling................................................................................... 16
COUNTRY OF ORIGIN .................................................................................................. 16
LABEL PLACEMENT .................................................................................................... 17
V.
SUSTAINABILITY RESOLUTION ............................................................................... 18
VI.
FLAMMABILITY REQUIREMENTS ............................................................................ 19
SUSPTECT FABRICS ................................................................................................... 19
RAISED FIBER FABRICS ............................................................................................ 20
EXEMPTIONS ............................................................................................................. 20
APPAREL TESTING..................................................................................................... 21
BASIC QUALITY TESTING REQUIREMENTS ........................................................ 21
Woven Fabric ...................................................................................................... 21
Knit Fabric........................................................................................................... 21
Sweaters............................................................................................................... 22
TESTING METHODS AND STANDARDS................................................................... 23
NTO Laboratory Testing Protocol.................................................................. 23-26
TESTING LAB SUBMIT FORM ............................................................................... 27-28
ADDITIONAL TESTS SUBMIT FORM ........................................................................29
OTHER TESTS .......................................................................................................... 30-31
NTO Laboratory Testing Protocol (other tests).............................................. 30-31
TESTING LAB SUBMIT FORM (other tests) ............................................................32-33
VII
VIII
IX
X.
APPENDIX
................................................................................................................ 34
READ AND COMPLY .................................................................................................... 35
SPECS. CARE & CONTENT SPECIFICATION SHEET .............................................. 36
GARMENT LABELS .......................................................................................................37
GARMENT LABELS SPECIFICATIONS................................................................. 3-3
GARMENT LABEL EXAMPLES: SEWN IN GARMENT ..........................................
GARMENT LABEL: ACTUAL “ON BODY” EXAMPLES.................................... 4-4
ASTM GUIDE ................................................................................................................ 4
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NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES
I.
INTRODUCTION
The Norm Thompson Technical Design team establishes corporate quality guidelines and, together with the
Merchandise Department, develops products of quality and value.
Questions regarding quality guidelines should be directed to the appropriate Tech Design team member listed below
via phone, fax, regular mail, or email.
CONTACT INFORMATION
PHONE
FAX
ADDRESS
503-614-EXT. 503-614-4725 3188 NW Aloclek Drive
Hillsboro, OR 97124
Technical Design & Quality
NAME
EXT. E-MAIL
4595 [email protected]
Carla Kildahl
Director Technical Design/Prod Quality
Technical Designers
NAME
EXT.
E-MAIL
4631 Norm Thompson Apparel [email protected]
Ene Sokk
Senior Tech Design
4691 Norm Thompson Apparel [email protected]
Meagan Feeder
Senior Tech Design
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NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES
II.
VENDOR REQUIREMENTS
SAMPLE TAGS
All sample garments must be received with sample tags applied by the vendor and include the
following information:
a.
b.
c.
d.
e.
f.
Date
Vendor name
Vendor reference number
Norm Thompson reference/product number
Size
Sample identification; i.e., 1st Prototype, 2nd Prototype, Pre-production Sample,
Top of Production Sample, Photo Sample, etc.
g. Color
h. Fabric – content, fabric reference # , article #, and notation if substitute or correct
ALL FIT SAMPLES are to be sent to the attention of Technical Design – not to the buyer.
Samples received untagged will be returned to the vendor for tagging.
PRODUCT SPECIFICATION REQUESTS
a. Read and Comply Statement will be generated and faxed with first Purchase Order
for each style (see Appendix page 30).
1) Care and content is required on all styles and should be submitted prior to due date.
2) Pre-production sample , if requested by Tech Designer. See page 5.
3) TOP garment – One (1) required. See page 6.
4) Color swatches:
 New styles: Submit two (1) sets of fabric swatches of any additional colors
purchased for that product not represented by TOP samples.
 Carryover styles: Submit one set of fabric swatches for new colors only.
b. For apparel orders a blank specification sheet will be included (see Appendix page 30).
1) Line Goods: All applicable garment measurements and care/content information
must be completed on all new styles.
2) Developed Goods: Complete only care/content information. Spec pack will be
sent to you by Tech Design.
3) Carryover Styles: Submit one set of fabric swatches for new colors only.
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NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES
PRODUCT SPECIFICATION REQUESTS (continued)
c. It is a Federal Trade Commission (FTC) regulation that catalog information regarding
country of origin and fiber content must be consistent with the information on the
product label. Care and content information submitted on the specification sheet must
match that of actual product labeling. Inaccurate product information submitted will
result in a chargeback of $300.00, plus cost of copy change.
d. Fax/email the specification sheet(s) to the appropriate Technical Designer by the due
date on the Read and Comply Statement or by date given in by Technical Designer.
PLEASE NOTE: Your shipment will not be accepted at our distribution center until a Technical Design
representative has received your specification sheet. Failure to supply specification sheets on time will
result in a $450.00 surcharge per style, and delayed payment.
PRE-PRODUCTION SAMPLES
a. One (1) pre-production sample is required upon request by Norm Thompson
Technical Design. With this sample, the vendor is certifying that everything on and
about the sample is correct – including materials, construction, labeling and packaging.
 If pre-production sample is requested, written approval of the pre-production sample must be
received by the vendor prior to cutting and sewing of the product.
 Tech Design will fax/email approval to you.
 Samples are to be sent to the attention of the appropriate Technical Designer.
 All samples must be received with sample tags per the stated guideline (see Sample Tags on
page 4).
 Sample is reviewed for quality, construction, and specification compliance.
 Labeling – All products must comply with Norm Thompson brand labels if requested. Refer
to Section 4 Product Labeling Requirements (page 13) for more detail.
 Any changes required as a result of the review of the pre-production sample must be
incorporated into the bulk production.
Failure to supply the requested pre-production sample by the stated date will result in a $450.00
chargeback per style and possible rejection of bulk production.
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NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES
TOP-OF-PRODUCTION GARMENTS
a. One (1) Top of Production (TOP) garment is required, as detailed on our Read and
Comply Statement and Purchase Order. Also required are one (1) set of fabric
swatches of any additional colors purchased for that product not represented by the
production samples.
 TOP garments and swatches (if necessary) are to be received by the due date as specified on the
Read and Comply Statement, or by date specified by the Technical Designer
(based on production calendar).
 TOP garments should be sent to the attention of the appropriate Technical Designer.
 TOP garments are reviewed for quality and specification compliance.
 TOP garment (approved) will be retained as the inspection standard for the bulk order.
 Labeling – All products need to comply with Norm Thompson brand labels if requested. Refer
to Section 4 Product Labeling Requirements (page 13) for more detail.
 Packaging (hanging, folded, polybag, SKU sticker, etc.) should be as specified on the Purchase
Order and representative of bulk shipment goods.
b. If production of a carryover style moves to a new factory, or if style moves to a new
yarn, has new content, etc., one (1) TOP garment samples are required.
c. The Technical Designer will email/fax verification that TOP garments meet the
production standard, within two working days of receipt.
PLEASE NOTE: Your shipment will not be accepted at our Distribution Center until the Technical
Designer has approved your TOP garments. Failure to supply the production garments by the due date
will result in a $450.00 surcharge per style, and delayed payment to you.
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NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES
Required processes before shipment of products
Technical Design and Quality require the following important steps be followed, before
A Top of Production garment is considered approved for production to ship.
.
1- Testing for Quality and CPSIA be completed and submitted for approval by
Technical Design/Product Quality Management. (see: Basic Testing Requirements)
2- CPSIA Certificate of Conformity be fully completed and submitted
By email to - [email protected]
For more details on the Certificate of Conformity – visit our vendor website
http://vendor.nortom.com/ - “US CPSIA Act –2008” “Certificate of Conformity”
Submit Certificate of Conformity must also include
a) Supporting test documents
- or b) Statement on letterhead with explanation of exemption.
Note: Apparel Flammability Act 16 CFR 1610 - applies to all items of clothing, and fabrics
used for clothing, whether for adults or children, for daywear or nightwear.
Regulations: 16 CFR parts 1615 and 1616 govern the flammability of children's sleepwear.
3- TOP (top of production) with all points met listed in the above guidelines.
4- Receipt of TOP approval letter
Failure to comply will result in a $450.00 QC chargeback per style, per offense
1- Non submittal - CPSIA certificate of conformity and supporting documentation at time of Top
of Production submit.
2- Top of Production – product not arriving by specified date
 provided by Technical Design and/or on Purchase order (read and comply)
 Check with appropriate Technical Designer regarding due date.
3- Shipment of products to our warehouse without prior approval
 Products shipped before approval, may also be held at warehouse and
i. additional charges may be incurred due to lost demand, until all
issue and concerns are cleared.
ii. Automatic charge of $450.00 will be given
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NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES
PRODUCTION REQUIREMENTS
a. Correct product labeling is required. Please refer to Section 4 Product Labeling Requirements
(page 14).
b. Garment folded or hanging as specified on the purchase order.
c. If Norm Thompson labels are specified on the purchase order, there can be no vendor hangtag
attached unless prior approval is obtained from Product Quality Management (PQM)
d. No vendor solicitations allowed on garment (phone numbers, addresses, websites, etc.) with or
without Norm Thompson labeling, unless prior approval is obtained from Product Quality
Management (PQM)
e. No price tags.
f. One (1) extra button of each button size on garment to be included with garment.
QUALITY CONTROL INSPECTION OF PRODUCTION GOODS
a. All orders received at our distribution center require a quality inspection to assure consistent quality
of all products.
b. Inspection procedure adopted by our distribution center is the 4% Acceptable Quality Level (AQL),
double sampling plan based upon the Military Standard 105D. It is the most widely used randomsampling inspection procedure among the large direct-mail companies.
 4% AQL means no more than 4% of the shipment can be defective.
 Double sampling means if the amount inspected falls between accept/reject, another sample lot
is pulled and inspected.
c. If shipment fails the AQL inspection, goods will automatically be returned to the vendor for 100%
inspection and replacement of goods.
d. There are three levels of inspection under the AQL plan: normal, reduced, and tightened. Each
shipment is documented, and a vendor’s status may be changed to reduced or increased inspection
levels, based upon inspection of previous shipments.
e. Inspection reports are available upon request.
f. For further information or questions regarding the AQL process, please contact the appropriate
Technical Designer.
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NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES
III.
NORM THOMPSON APPAREL GUIDELINES
GENERAL
These guidelines include, but are not limited to, the following:
a. Color, fiber content, fabric and garment construction, and all parts, findings and features, are exactly as
approved for Purchase Order by Merchants, and are representative of photo samples.
b. No odors.
c. All units of Purchase Order are consistent in quality of fabric, construction, and features.
d. Vendor is responsible for physical testing that meets Norm Thompson requirements. Our standards
follow American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) and ASTM International
(ASTM) for product end-use. Refer to Section 6 Physical Testing (page 17).
MEASUREMENTS
a. Garment measurements must meet approved graded production specification sheets within
tolerances listed on spec sheet.
b. Corresponding garment pieces measure within ½" of each other (right and left sleeve, or right and left
pant leg).
FABRICS
a. No fabric defects, including: holes, stains, weak spots, mispicks, knots, slubs, soil, or other
flaws.
b. No streaking, fade lines, heavy barré or foreign matter, unless characteristic of fabric type.
c. No large or long slubs (inherent in some natural fabrics) to be found in front of garment, which detracts
from garment appearance.
d. No uneven print repeats, off-register prints, off-grain prints, or inconsistent print repeats.
e. Stripes, plaids and directional prints must match at center front and center back +/- ⅛",at side seams
and armscye.
f. Based on design, center of plaid/stripe is placed at center front and center back.
COLOR
a. Production colors must match approved lab dip or approved photo sample color.
b. All garment components are from the same dye lot.
c. Separates should be from the same dye lot or from approved dye lots within shade band pre-approved
by the Technical Designer.
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NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES
CONSTRUCTION
Stitching
a. Required stitch length is 10-12 stitches per inch (SPI) and must be consistent throughout garment.
Required stitch length for topstitching is 10-12 SPI, except heavyweight outerwear,
which is 8-10 SPI.
b. Stitch tension is balanced, so there are no puckers or thread loops.
c. No broken or skipped stitches.
d. Topstitching is consistently even and parallel from edge or from another line of topstitch.
e. No needle cuts, chews, or thread jams.
f. Bartacks or back-tacks at garment stress points.
g. No conspicuous, overlapped stop-and-start stitching.
h. No hand repairs or darning.
Thread
a. Thread color matches or complements ground color for all seams and topstitching unless another color
is pre-approved.
b. Thread color is consistent throughout garment.
c. No monofilament thread on any part of garment or labels.
d. Thread tails should be clipped and removed from garment.
e. Fluff or texturized threads on loopers of swim and/or body wear.
Seams
a. Seam must be straight: no wavering, curling, puckering, or pleating.
b. Minimum seam for overseam is ⅜" woven’s, ½" for lockstitch. Minimum seam for overseam on knits
is ¼".
c. Seam edge is finished by serging or taping.
d. No open unstitched seams.
e. No seam grin due to loose tension or too large stitches.
f. Seams match +/- ¼", where seams cross (i.e., inside leg seams at crotch seam, or armscye seams at side
seam).
g. No extraneous part of garment caught in seam.
h. Shoulder seams on knits reinforced.
Buttonholes
a.
b.
c.
d.
e.
f.
g.
h.
Buttonhole length = diameter + thickness of button.
Spaced evenly, and correctly aligned to buttons +/- ⅛".
Thread matches ground color unless another color pre-approved.
Buttonholes completely surrounded by buttonhole stitches, ends reinforced.
No clipped buttonhole stitches.
Reinforced with interfacing.
Loose fabric yarns and buttonhole threads neatly trimmed.
Aligned with fabric grain, crosswise or lengthwise as predetermined.
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NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES
CONSTRUCTION (continued)
Hems
a. Hem is sewn after main seam (side, leg, sleeve) unless seam has slits.
b. Sewn securely without puckering; no loose or skipped stitches.
c. Should not rope.
d. Hang evenly and straight.
e. Width is consistent throughout garment.
Interfacing – Facing
a. Interfacing must be of compatible weight for base goods.
b. Interfacing must be durable to withstand recommended care.
c. Fusible interfacing must be applied at correct temperature and pressure to remain fused for the life of
the garment.
d. Facing is clean-finished, serged edge or pre-approved edge finish.
e. Facing is sufficiently secured to lie smooth inside garment.
Pockets
a. Lie flat against garment – no pulling, gaping, or puckering.
b. Pockets in correct placement on garment +/- ¼" tolerance.
c. Patch pockets aligned evenly with one another horizontally +/- ¼" tolerance and vertically from CF +/¼" tolerance.
d. Pocket/flap shape is symmetrical and uniform in size +/- ¼".
e. Functional pockets are reinforced at stress points, such as top corners.
f. Patch pockets, even edge-stitch.
g. Pocket bags should use stitch type recommended for durability.
Collars
a.
b.
c.
d.
e.
Collar points/curves are uniform in size and shape +/- ⅛".
Under-collar does not roll to outside.
Collar band fits smoothly to neck opening without excessive fullness or tucks in seams.
Even stripes, plaids or patterns match on both collar points +/- ⅛".
Collar seam is enclosed within facing or binding.
Plackets
a. Top and bottom plackets should be equal when buttoned +/- ⅛".
b. Inside edge of placket is clean-finished, serged or bound.
c. Placket width should be consistently even +/- ⅛".
Cuffs
a. Cuff seam and cuff edges are in alignment when buttoned +/- ⅛".
b. Inside-cuff does not roll to outside.
c. Inside-cuff edge clean-finished, serged or bound.
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NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES
CONSTRUCTION (continued)
Rib, Binding
a. Should be compatible to garment and its recommended care, including: colorfastness, durability and
shrinkage.
b. Stretch ratio should be compatible to garment fabric.
c. Neck finish seam is set at left shoulder or center back.
d. Sleeve finish seam is set at underarm seam.
e. Bottom finish seam is set at left side seam.
f. Binding ends are clean-finished.
g. Binding splices should not fall on garment front.
Waistbands/Belt loops
a. Waistband width is of consistent width +/- ⅛".
b. Inside waistband edge is clean-finished, bound or serged.
c. No puckers at waistband seam.
d. No missing, crooked or incorrectly placed belt loops.
e. Belt loop securely attached to garment.
f. Belt loop construction must enclose raw edges.
FINDINGS
Zippers
a. Equivalent in strength to the base fabric and product end use.
b. Locking slider, secure pull-tab and bottom stops.
c. Teeth and tape match pre-approved color.
d. Garment construction should not interfere with zipper operation.
e. Should lie flat after construction.
f. Zipper tape is enclosed within facing or binding.
g. YKK strongly recommended.
Buttons
a. Button style, quality and color as pre-approved sample.
b. Placed evenly and aligned properly on garment.
c. Sewn and tacked securely with no loose threads.
d. Colorfast and durable to recommended care.
e. Consistent color and shape among all garment buttons.
f. Placement markings are not visible.
g. No sharp edges or noticeable flaws.
h. Shanked button when fabric thickness dictates need.
i. Button placement reinforced with interfacing
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NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES
CONSTRUCTION (continued)
Belts/Buckles
a. Buckles and grommets should not have any sharp, burred edges.
b. For self-fabric belts, fabric should completely cover belting and buckle.
c. Self-fabric belt cut from same dye lot as garment.
Shoulder pads
a. Sufficiently tacked to avoid twisting or shifting from wear or care.
b. Shoulder pad fabric should be compatible to garment fabric.
c. If attached by hook & loop fasteners, loops should be on garment, hooks should be on pads.
d. Exposed shoulder pads covered with self-fabric or fabric compatible to garment.
Linings
a.
b.
c.
d.
e.
f.
g.
h.
Color and content pre-approved by Merchants and Tech Design.
Must withstand recommended garment care.
Seams securely stitched and reinforced at stress points.
Hang straight in the garment without pulling or excessive puckering.
Do not hang below garment shell.
Lining and shell fabric have similar shrinkage rates within acceptable tolerance.
Opaque to prevent show-through of construction details.
Jacket lining is tacked at underarm seams.
PRESSING
a.
b.
c.
d.
No scorch, burn, shine, press marks, or color changes due to over-pressing.
Garment properly pressed, unless fabric type warrants otherwise.
No heat-set creases due to improper pressing.
Garment must cool to room temperature prior to measuring for final inspection and packaging, to
prevent condensation in bag.
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NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES
IV.
PRODUCT LABELING REQUIREMENTS
BRAND LABELS
Refer to examples of Norm Thompson labels (see Appendix) for women’s and men’s products. Use
correct brand label as specified on Purchase Order. Brand labels, size labels, care and content labels
should be order at www.CheckpointSystems.com.
U.S. & CANADA SOURCE
Checkpoint Houston
5800 Corporate Drive
Building D
Houston, TX 77036
CONTACT
PHONE
1-866-910-9106
Karen Hunt
[email protected]
-orRichard Rodriguez
[email protected]
FAX
713-981-6213
INTERNATIONAL SOURCE
PHONE
FAX
Checkpoint Systems Hong Kong Ltd. 011-852-2995-8355 011-852-2527-8408
4/F, Block A, Shatin Industrial Centre
5-7 Yuen Shun Circuit, Siu Lek Yuen
Shatin, New Territories, Hong Kong
SIZE TAB LABELS
Size labels, brand labels, care & content labels should be ordered at
www.CheckpointSystems.com.
a. Specific size information must be included on garment.
b. Size information should be a size tav label affixed in a prominent place
(see Appendix: “ Garment Label Examples: Sewn In Garment” for details)
CARE & CONTENT LABELS
Care & Content labels, size labels, brand labels should be ordered at
www.CheckpointSystems.com.
Federal Trade Commission (FTC) – All care & content labels must be in compliance with current FTC
requirements.
For further information regarding fiber content and care labels, contact:
Federal Trade Commission
6th & Pennsylvania Avenue, NW
Washington, DC 20580
Phone: 202-326-2996
www.ftc.gov. - Business Guidance, Textile/wool/fur apparel.
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NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES
CARE & CONTENT LABELS (Continued)
a. Care label is permanently affixed at a conspicuous place on garment and legible throughout useful
life of the product.
b. Labels are required to be written in English. Additionally, international languages and American
Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) symbols may be used (see Appendix).
c. Identification of fiber by generic name and percentages and by weight of each constituent fiber must be
listed in descending order of predominance. Fibers of less than five percent should be disclosed as “other
fiber(s)”.
Exception: Wool or recycled wool must always be disclosed by name and percentage weight,
even if it is less than five percent of the product.
d. Textile labels must identify either the company name or Registered Identification Number (RN).
Please note: It is an FTC requirement that catalog information (mail order advertising) regarding a
product’s country of origin, fiber content and care information match the actual product labeling.
Submitting accurate information on your spec. sheet will help to ensure compliance with this
requirement.
Care Label Ruling
Instructions are required for regular care under ordinary use of product.
Care instructions must include the following:





Method of washing and temperature.
Method of drying and temperature.
Bleaching – type of bleach or “no bleach” (need tests to support statement on bleach care).
Ironing and temperature if needed.
Warnings – if any part of care procedure would damage product or others cleaned with it, then label must
contain warning.
 Dry cleaning – if product warrants this care, due to damage of garment if washed.
When using the statement “Dry-Clean Only” – Testing is required to support this care.
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NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES
COUNTRY OF ORIGIN
Products are required to show country of origin.




Imported products must identify the country where they were manufactured.
Products made in USA of USA materials must be labeled “Made in U.S.A.”
Products manufactured in part in the USA and in part abroad must identify both aspects.
Products made in USA of imported materials must be labeled to show manufacturing that takes place in the
USA, as well as the imported component.
Example: “Made in Sri Lanka, finished in U.S.A.”
 Products made in the USA with imported materials must identify this, but label does not have to include
country of origin of imported materials.
Example: “Made in U.S.A. of imported fabric”.
Please note: It is an FTC requirement that catalog information (mail order advertising) regarding a
product’s country of origin, fiber content and care information match the actual product labeling.
Submitting accurate information on your spec. sheet will help to ensure this requirement.
LABEL PLACEMENT
 In a garment with a neck, a label disclosing the country of origin must be visible.
 On garments without a neck, required information must appear on conspicuous and readily
accessible label(s) on the inside or outside of the product.
U.S. Customs service has country of origin labeling requirements separate from those under the FTC
Textile and Wool Acts and Rules. For more information, refer to
www.customs.ustreas.gov.
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NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES
V. SUSTAINABILITY RESOLUTION
NOTE: Norm Thompson Outfitters is a member of the Business for Social Responsibility, and supports
activities of the BSR organization. As a participating member, Norm Thompson asks all suppliers to
become aware of substances that are harmful either to the environment or to humans, and ensure Norm
Thompson that use of these products will be curtailed to designated limits or less. A list of these
substances follows. Further information may be found online at www.bsr.org/rsl.
Azo dyes
Disperse dyes
Flame retardants
Formaldehyde
Pentachlorophenol (PCP)
Organotins
Polyvinyl chloride (PVC)
Phthalates
Nickel
Other metals; including antimony, arsenic, barium, total chromium & selenium
Mercury
Cadmium
Lead
Chromium VI
Asbestos
Dioxins and Furans
Pesticides
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NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES
VI. FLAMMABILITY REQUIREMENTS
All apparel must comply with the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) Regulation CFR1610 for
flammability. The only exemptions to this regulation are hats, gloves and shoes.
Although most fabrics burn, the CPSC identifies in the regulation, those fabrics which, due to their burning
characteristics, will not fail to meet this regulation. These fabrics are categorized as EXEMPT.
The regulation also identifies those fabrics that are categorized as SUSPECT, and therefore not exempt.
Leather and suede are not considered to be suspect fabrics however suede, due to its raised surface, must be
tested for flammability. Smooth leather products do not need to be tested for flammability.
Norm Thompson requires that all SUSPECT fabrics be tested prior to shipping and that all such fabrics be
classified as “Class 1”. The following list provides fabric types that are “EXEMPT” and “SUSPECT”.
SUSPECT FABRICS
Lightweight Fabrics: Fabrics weighing less than 2.6 ounces per square yard composed of cotton, rayon,
ramie, acetate or silk fibers. This includes, but is not limited to:
• Cellophane or Chiffon
• Cheese Cloth
• Crepe de Chine
• Crinoline
• Gauze
• Georgette
• Lace
• Lawn
• Leno Weave
• Light Weight Momme Cloth
• Lingerie Batiste
• Metallic
• Moss Crepe
• Net
• Ninon
• Organdy
• Swiss Marquisette
• Tissue Faille Crepe
• Tissue Gingham
• Tobacco Cloth
• Tulle
• Veiling
• Voile
19
NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES
SUSPECT FABRICS (continued)
Raised Fiber Surface Fabrics
Fabrics, which have raised fiber, yarns such as pile, tufting or nap of cotton or rayon fibers, or blends
containing these fibers. This includes but is not limited to:
• Chenille
• Flannel
• Fleece
• Terry
• Flocked Weaves
• French Terry
• Sherpa
Exemptions
The CPSC exempts certain fabrics from the flammability testing requirements. Following is a list of these
exemptions:
• Plain surface fabrics which weigh 2.6 ounces per square yard or more, regardless of their fiber content.
• All fabrics (both plain and raised fiber surface) made completely from any of the following fibers or
entirely from combinations of the following fibers:
• Acrylic
• Nylon
• Polyester
• Modacrylic
• Olefin
• Wool
20
NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES
VII. APPAREL TESTING
Basic Quality Testing Requirements
WOVEN FABRIC
Description
Method
Fibre Composition
AATCC 20/20A
Yarn Count
ASTM D1059
Thread / Stitch Count
ASTM D3775 / D3887
Fabric Weight
ASTM D3776
Seam Strength
ASTM D1683
Dimensional Stability to Washing /
AATCC 135 / 150 or Commercial DryCommercial Dry-cleaning
cleaning
Appearance After Washing /
Subjective Assessment
Commercial Dry-cleaning
Colorfastness to Washing and/or
AATCC 61 / 132
Commercial Dry-cleaning
Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach
AATCC TS-001
Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach
Colorfastness to Crocking
AATCC 8
Flammability test
US CPSC 16 CFR Part 1610 / 1630 /1631 /
ASTM D4151
KNIT FABRIC
Description
Method
Fibre Composition
AATCC 20/20A
Yarn Count
ASTM D1059
Thread / Stitch Count
ASTM D3775 / D3887
Fabric Weight
ASTM D3776
Dimensional Stability to Washing /
AATCC 135 / 150 or Commercial DryCommercial Dry-cleaning
cleaning
Appearance After Washing /
Subjective Assessment
Commercial Dry-cleaning
Colorfastness to Washing and/or
AATCC 61 / 132
Commercial Dry-cleaning
Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach
AATCC TS-001
Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach
Colorfastness to Crocking
AATCC 8
Flammability test
US CPSC 16 CFR Part 1610 / 1630 /1631 /
ASTM D4151
21
NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES
Basic Quality Testing Requirements (continued)
SWEATERS
Description
Method
Fibre Composition
AATCC 20/20A
Yarn Count
ASTM D1059
Thread / Stitch Count
ASTM D3775 / D3887
Garment Weight
ASTM D3776
Dimensional Stability to Washing /
AATCC 135 / 150 or Commercial DryCommercial Dry-cleaning
cleaning
Appearance After Washing /
Subjective Assessment
Commercial Dry-cleaning
Colorfastness to Washing and/or
AATCC 61 / 132
Commercial Dry-cleaning
Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach
AATCC TS-001
Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach
Colorfastness to Crocking
AATCC 8
Flammability test
US CPSC 16 CFR Part 1610 / 1630 /1631 /
ASTM D4151
 Test packages with reduced prices are available,
o See: “ Testing Submit Form “
“NTO Laboratory Testing Form (Apparel & Home Textiles)”
o Questions on test packages please; contact Technical Designers –
For contact list – see “Technical Design and Quality”
22
NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES
VIII. TESTING METHODS AND STANDARDS
Item#
Protocol
NTO Laboratory Testing Protocol (Apparel & Home Textiles)
Description Method Guidance
Fibre
1
Composition
Yarn Count
2
AATCC
20/20A
ASTM
D1059
Thread / Stitch ASTM
D3775 /
3 Count
D3887
Fabric Weight ASTM
4 (Garment Wt. D3776 /
for Sweater)
D3887
5 Seam Strength ASTM
D1683
Requirement
Test one color per
fabrication.
- Sweater only.
- Test one color per
fabrication.
Test one color per
fabrication.
No tolerance for single fiber; +/-3% for blends
Report mm for silk
fabric.
+/-5% (lab shows also + or -% besides result after comparing the
declared)
+/-5% (lab shows also + or -% besides result after comparing the
declared)
+/-5% (lab shows also + or -% besides result after comparing the
declared)
- Woven only.
- Test one color per
fabrication.
Style
Package
Woven
outerwear
(shell/lining)
Tops, flannel
and seersucker
Bottoms
All other
Pockets
Patch Pockets
6 Dimensional
Stability to
Washing /
Commercial
Dry-cleaning
AATCC
135 / 150
or
Commerci
al Drycleaning
- the darkest color(s)
Fabrication
is/are preferable.
- for garment test,
Woven/Knit
vendor submits one cotton
out of every three
Woven CVC
colors per style to lab Woven CVS
(3 maximum). Lab
Knit CVC
test all submitted
Knit CVS
colors.
- use "Tide" detergent Ribs of any
to wash.
fibers
- 3 washes for
Wool/Cashmer
machine and hand
e/Angora/CVL/
wash.
CV Rayon/Silk
- 1 wash for drySpandex
cleaning.
- For "Appearance", blends
Lab can skip 1st wash Thermal Knits
result if 3rd washes
result is passed.
- Leather to be
Leather
"Professional Dry
Cleaned".
23
Fabric > 3 oz/sq Fabric < 3 oz/sq yd
yd & Strength
& Strength e.g.
moss crepe, silk,
georgette
35 lbs
15 lbs
25 lbs
30 lbs
10 lbs
15 lbs
10 lbs
10 lbs
15 lbs
Machine
Washes
15 lbs
Hand Washes
Dry-cleaning
+/-5%
+/-4%
+/-3%
+/-4%
+/-3%
+/-3%
+/-4%
+/-2%
+/-2%
+/-5%
+/-4%
+/-3%
+/-4%
+/-4%
+/-2%
+/-8%
+/-8%
+/-2%
+/-5%
+/-5%
+/-4%
+/-7%
+/-7%
+/-4%
+/-6%
+/-6%
+/-3%
N/A
N/A
+/-2%
NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES
TESTING METHODS AND STANDARDS (continued)
Item#
Protocol
NTO Laboratory Testing Protocol (Apparel & Home Textiles)
Description
Method
Guidance
8 Colorfastness to AATCC 61 /
Washing and/or 132
Commercial
Dry-cleaning
Colorfastness to AATCC TS9
Chlorine Bleach 001
Colorfastness to AATCC TS001
10 Non-Chlorine
Bleach
11 Colorfastness to AATCC 8
Crocking
Requirement
Commercial Acceptable (report color change grade, skewing,
pilling appearance according to ASTM D 3512 template and
all poor performance after wash - for both fabric and garment).
For failed color change grade, report also color change with
UV depressor, but comment according to without depressor)
7 Appearance
Subjective
After Washing / Assessment
Commercial
Dry-cleaning
- Fabric: test all colors
except pastels and
white.
- Garment: vendor
submit one out of
Color Change
every three colors
with darkest shade(s)
Color Staining
except pastels and
white to the lab. Lab
test all submitted
Self Staining
colors.
All colors.
3.5
3.0
3.5
3.0
3.0
4.5
4.5
4.5
Color Change 4.0
Color Change 4.0
Fabric
All colors, except
pastels and white.
CVS
Wool / Linen /
Leather
Optional
4.0
All colors.
CVC
12 Flammability
test
Swimwear dark
Swimwear
Noncolors
Light/Medium
Swimwear
neon/fluorescen
Color
t
US CPSC 16 Test all colors.
CFR Part 1610
for garment
Colors
Light/Med
Dark
Light/Med
Dark
Dry
4.0
3.0
4.0
3.5
Wet
3.0
2.5
3.0
2.5
All Colors
3.0
2.5
Class 1
ASTM D4151
for blanket
US CPSC 16
CFR Parts
1630 / 1631 for
carpet/rug
Pass
24
NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES
TESTING METHODS AND STANDARDS (continued)
Item
Protocol
NTO Laboratory Testing Protocol (Apparel & Home Textiles)
Description
Method
Guidance
Thread Count
ASTM D3775 Woven only.
Tensile Strength ASTM D5034 Woven only.
Bursting
Strength
Snap & Fabric
Strength
Eyelet Pull
Strength
Additional
Snag
Resistance
Pilling
Resistance
Requirement
Style
Woven tops, dresses,
lounge wear, lining on
jackets/coats, other light
weight woven’s
Woven bottoms, denim
less than 8.5 oz.
Denim over 8.5 oz.,
shell fabric on
jackets/coats
ASTM D3786 Knits only.
Modified
Snap only.
ASTM D4846
/ D1683
- Eyelet only.
- using Tensile
Testing Machine,
CRE
ASTM D5362
ASTM D3512 For fleece and
flannel, or other
suspected
fabrics.
Abrasion
ASTM D4685 For corduroy
Resistance
fabric only.
Stretch and
ASTM D2594
Recovery
/ D3107
Zipper Strength ASTM D2061
+/-5%
Acceptance Level
25 lbs. Min.
35 lbs. Min.
40 lbs. Min.
Minimum 45 lbs
Snap action: 2-8
lbs.; Snap strength:
Min. 15 lbs.
Minimum 15 lbs
Fabrication
CVC
CVS
Fabrication
CVC, CVS
Wool
Grade
3.0
2.0
Grade
3.0
2.0
Face : 3.0 ;
Back : 4.0
Knit - 95% Min.;
Woven - 85% Min.
Top Stop
Pull Tab Strength
(min.)
Strength (min.)
Size
1-2 / 3-4 / 5-7 / 8-9 1-2 / 3-4 / 5-7 /
/ 10
8-9 / 10
Brass/Nickel
20 / 25 / 30 / 40 /
10 / 15 / 15 / 30
60
/ 30
Aluminum
20 / 25 / 35 / 40 /
10 / 15 / 15 / 20
60
/ 20
Plastic/Nylon
20 / 25 / 35 / 40 /
15 / 15 / 20 / 30
40
/ 30
CEF
15 / 15 / 30 / 50 /50 10 / 10 / 20 / 40
/ 60
25
Chain
Crosswise
Strength
(min.)
Bottom Stop
Strength
(min.)
1-2 / 3-4 / 5-7 / 1-2 / 3-4 / 5-7 /
8-9 / 10
8-9 / 10
50 / 75 / 120 / 7 / 10 / 10 / 20
150 / 150
/ 30
50 / 50 / 75 /
80 / 100
7 / 10 / 10 / 15
/ 20
50 / 50 / 75 /
80 / 100
8 / 10 / 15 / 15
/ 20
50 / 50 / 100 / 7 / 8 / 15 / 40 /
150 / 200
60
NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES
TESTING METHODS AND STANDARDS (continued)
Item
Protocol
NTO Laboratory Testing Protocol (Apparel & Home Textiles)
Description
Composition
Analysis
Oxygen number
Wrinkle
Resistance /
Durable Press
Method
Fed. Std. 48a,
Method 2
Fed. Std. 48a,
Method 4
AATCC 124 /
143

Additional
Determine Twist AATCC 179
in both Woven &
Knit Garments
Water
AATCC 22
Repellency
Water
AATCC 35
Resistance Rain test
Colorfastness to AATCC 15
Perspiration
Guidance
Feather and down
only.
Feather and down
only.
- For woven
wrinkle-free
garments if
claimed.
- Test all colors.
- Report 3rd and
5th washes. Lab
can skip 3rd
washes result if 5th
washes result is
passed.
Requirement
Less than 10.0 for an oxygen cleanliness rating
Criteria
Fabric
Appearance
Retention
Seam
Appearance
Retention
Crease Resistant
All colors.
All colors.
Condition
Rain
Shower
Storm
All colors, except
pastels and white.
Test Area
All colors, except
pastels and white.
AATCC 130
AATCC 118
pH Value
AATCC 81
Formaldehyde
AATCC 112
3.0
3.5
All colors, except
pastels and white.
All colors, except
pastels and white.
Height of Water
Time
Water
Absorption
2 feet
2 minutes
Not more than
1.0 gram
General
Requirement
Leather (Lining
only)
Class 4.0 Min. Class 3.5 Min.
Class 3.0 Min. Class 3.0 Min.
Class 4.5 Min.
---
Garment/ Fabric
Type
Leather
Suede
All Other
Garments
Soil Release
Oil Repellency
3.5
Original Before Wash - 90 (ISO4); After 3 Launderings - 70
(ISO2)
Silk/swimwear
Colorfastness to AATCC 107
Water
Colorfastness to AATCC 162
Chlorinated Pool
Water
Colorfastness to AATCC 106
Sea Water
3.0
+/-5%
Color Change
Staining
Self Staining
Colorfastness to AATCC 16
Light
Non-Permanent Permanent
Press
Press
3.5
4.0
Color Type
Hour
Grade
Light/Med
Dark
Fluorescent
All Colors
All Colors
10 hours
20 hours
10 hours
20 hours
20 hours
4.0
4.0
4.0
4.0
3.0
All Colors
20 hours
4.0
CC 4.0; CS 3.0; Self-Staining 4.5
CC 4.0; CC-Fluorescent 3.0
All colors, except
pastels and white.
CC 4.0; CC-Fluorescent 3.0; CS 3.0; Self-Staining 4.5
4.0
For stain repellent.
Original 5.0; After 3 washes 4.0
White colors and
denim.
pH 5.0 - 7.0
Max. 75 ppm
26
NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES
IX. TESTING SUBMIT FORM
NTO Laboratory Testing Form (Apparel & Home Textiles)
Product #
Requirement
(Refer to vendor
if not specified)
Package
Fabric Testing
(Apparel)
Note; Mark box NOTE: IF TESTING FABRIC : circle if fabric is
below on fabric 1st order or Re-order below
type
Garment Testing
NOTE: IF TESTING GARMENT:
circle if garment is 1st order or
Re-order below
First Order Item # 1, 3, 4, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12
First Order
Item # 5, 6, 7, 8
Re-Order
Re-Order
Item # 5, 6, 7, 8
First Order Item # 1, 3, 4, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12
First Order
Item # 6, 7, 8
Re-Order
Re-Order
Item # 6, 7, 8
First Order Item # 1, 2, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12
First Order
Item # 6, 7, 8
Re-Order
Re-Order
Item # 6, 7, 8
Woven
Item # 1, 3, 4, 6, 7, 8, 11, 12
Knit
Item # 1, 3, 4, 6, 7, 8, 11, 12
Sweater
Item # 1, 2, 6, 7, 8, 11, 12
Submit this page and next 2 pages (completed)
27
NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES
Home Textiles Test Package
Submit all colors for lab test.
Package
Item#
Program
Item # 1, 3, 4, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
Optional
9
10
11
12
Description
Method
Fibre Composition
AATCC 20/20A
Yarn Count
ASTM D1059
Thread / Stitch Count
ASTM D3775 / D3887
Fabric Weight
ASTM D3776
Seam Strength
ASTM D1683
Dimensional Stability to Washing / Commercial
AATCC 135 / 150 or Commercial Dry-cleaning
Dry-cleaning
Appearance After Washing / Commercial DrySubjective Assessment
cleaning
Colorfastness to Washing and/or Commercial Dry- AATCC 61 / 132
cleaning
Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach
AATCC TS-001
Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach
Colorfastness to Crocking
AATCC 8
Flammability test
US CPSC 16 CFR Part 1610 / 1630 /1631 / ASTM
D4151
Instructions:
(1) SGS and INTERTEK labs are authorized to conduct testing for NTO.
(2) Vendor should refer to PO to inform the Lab whether it's first or re-order and the specification of each test item.
(3) Lab should automatically conduct the "Optional" test item(s) based on the guidance specified, if necessary. The
test report should clearly state if any sample is exempted.
(4) Vendor will require to conduct second test for flammability on the semi-finished or end-product when needed.
(5) Final decision on acceptance will be made by NTO.
(6) Test Report should be emailed to attn. PQM Manager/Brand,
(Norm Thompson) [email protected];
(Sahalie) [email protected];
(Solutions)[email protected];
(Gold Violin) [email protected] ; and the applicant/vendor
Additional test is not required, do not attach page
30 with test request.
Note: mark box to left with "X" if no additional
tests are requested
Require Additional test(s), please refer to those
tick(s) on page 30 – and submit with test requests
Note: mark box to left with X if additional tests
are requested
28
NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES
ADDITIONAL TESTS submit form
Additional
Program
Product #
0
Requirement
(Refer to
vendor if not
specified)
0
Item
Mark
box
with
"X"
Description
Method
Thread Count
Tensile Strength
Bursting Strength
Snap & Fabric Strength
Eyelet Pull Strength
Snag Resistance
Pilling Resistance
Abrasion Resistance
Stretch and Recovery
Zipper Strength
Composition Analysis
Oxygen number
Wrinkle Resistance / Durable Press
Determine Twist in both woven & Knit
garments
Water Repellency
Water Resistance - Rain test
Colorfastness to Perspiration
Colorfastness to Light
Colorfastness to Water
Colorfastness to Chlorinated Pool Water
Colorfastness to Sea Water
Soil Release
Oil Repellency
Formaldehyde
pH Value
ASTM D3775
ASTM D5034
ASTM D3786
Modified ASTM D4846 / D1683
ASTM D5362
ASTM D3512
ASTM D4685
ASTM D2594 / D3107
ASTM D2061
Fed. Std. 148a, Method 2
Fed. Std. 148a, Method 4
AATCC 124 / 143
AATCC 179
AATCC 22
AATCC 35
AATCC 15
AATCC 16
AATCC 107
AATCC 162
AATCC 106
AATCC 130
AATCC 118
AATCC 112
AATCC 81
29
NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES
OTHER TESTS
Optional
Package
Item#
Protocol
NTO Laboratory Testing Protocol (Others)
Method
Guidance
Requirement
1 Fiber Composition
Description
AATCC 20/20A
Not applicable for leather.
No tolerance for single
fiber; +/-3% for blends
2 Thread / Stitch Count
ASTM D3775 /
D3887
Not applicable for leather.
3 Abrasion Resistance
ASTM D1630
- Not applicable to slippers.
- Outsole only.
4 Flexing Resistance
ISO 5402
5 Ross Flexing Resistance
ASTM D1052
6 Slip Resistance
ASTM F609 (Mod.)
7 Bonding Strength
ISO 17708
8 Lead Content
16 CFR 1303
Upper only.
Outsole only.
- Static and Kinetic
- Dry and wet
Upper and sole.
- Product that is handled or
touched often.
- Scrapable surface coating
only.
- Test all colors.
9 UL listed
UL related test(s)
- Test AC items only.
- Validity of certificate should be
within 2 years.
10 Colorfastness to Crocking
AATCC 8
All colors, except pastels and
white.
+/-5%
Abrasion index 50%
No cracking after 50,000
cycles.
Max. 3mm growth in cut
length after 20,000 cycles.
Min. 0.4
Min. 3N/mm
- Not exceed 90 ppm.
Material
Dry Wet
Textiles
4.0
3.0
3.5
2.5
Leather
30
NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES
Item
Protocol
OTHER TESTS (continued)
Description
Method
Guidance
Requirement
Mark box (below) with "X" for requested test
Eyelet Strength
ASTM D1683
Pull Through Strength (Mod.)
Toe Strap Breakage
Reinforcement
Effectiveness
Tongue Strength
Setting Strength
Additional
Lace Strength
Seam Strength
Zipper Operability
(Open/Closed)
Lead Content
Min. 30 lbs.
Min. 35 lbs. for leather; Min. 25 lbs. for
rubber/others.
Min. 25 lbs.
Min. 25 lbs.
Min. 30 lbs.
- For jewelry with plates.
- Test per each style.
Lace only.
Min. 10 lbs.
Min. 30 lbs.
Min. 25 lbs.
ASTM D2062
Zipper only.
16 CFR 1303
- Product that is handled or
touched often.
- Scrapeable surface coating Should not exceed 90 ppm.
only.
- Test all colors.
- Textiles and/or foam
material only.
Color Change min. 4.0
- White and light colors only.
- One cycle
All colors, except pastels and
Material
Dry
Wet
white.
Textiles
4.0
3.0
Leather
3.5
2.5
Color Change
Min. 4.0
- All colors, except pastels
and white.
Staining
Min. 3.0
- Inner component only.
Self Staining
Min. 4.5
- Upper only.
Material
Hour
Grade
- All colors, except pastels
Leather
10 hours
4.0
and white.
Suede
10 hours
3.0
All colors, except pastels and CC 4.0; CC-Fluorescent 3.0; CS 3.0; Selfwhite.
Staining 4.5
Colorfastness to
Burnt Gas Fumes
AATCC 23
Colorfastness to
Crocking
AATCC 8
Colorfastness to
Perspiration
AATCC 15
Colorfastness to Light AATCC 16
Colorfastness to
Chlorinated Pool
Water
Water Repellency
Eyelet only.
AATCC 162
AATCC 22
All colors.
Water Resistance Rain test
AATCC 35
All colors.
Appearance after
Storage
storage method All colors
UV Protection
AATCC 183
Max. 5 lbs.
For clothing, sunscreen or
sunglass.
Original Before Wash - 90 (ISO4); After 3
Launderings - 70 (ISO2)
Condition (height of water
Water
Absorption
2 ft, duration 2 minutes)
Rain
Not more
than 1.0 gram
Shower
Storm
No bad and adverse appearance after
storage of 48 hours, 95% relative
humidity and 50 degrees Celsius
Min. UPF 40
Instruction; Same as mentioned in "NTO Laboratory Testing Protocol (Apparel)".
31
NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES
TESTING SUBMIT FORM (OTHER TESTS)
NTO Laboratory Testing Form (Others)
Product #
Requirement
(Refer to vendor
if not specified)
Hardline Test Package
(mark box below with "X" for correct test
request)
First &
Item# 8
Re-Order
Footwear Test Package
(mark box below with "X" for correct test request)
First
Order
Re-Order
Electrical Test Package
(mark box below with "X" for correct test
request)
First &
Item# 9
Re-Order
Item # 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 10
Item # 1, 2, 3, 7, 10
Bag Test Package
(mark box below with "X" for correct test request)
First &
Re-Order
Item# 1, 10
Jewelry Test Package
Optional
Package
Item#
Protocol
(mark box below with "X" for correct test
request)
First &
Item# 8
Re-Order
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
Description
Method
Fiber Composition
Thread / Stitch Count
Abrasion Resistance
Flexing Resistance
Ross Flexing Resistance
Slip Resistance
Bonding Strength
Lead Content
UL listed
Colorfastness to Crocking
AATCC 20/20A
ASTM D3775 / D3887
ASTM D1630
ISO 5402
ASTM D1052
ASTM F609 (Mod.)
ISO17708
16 CFR 1303
UL related test(s)
AATCC 8
10
32
NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES
TESTING SUBMIT FORM (OTHER TESTS) (continued)
In addition to the above "Package" test, please test the item(s) selected below:
Item
Protocol
(mark box below with "X" for correct test request)
Description
Additional
Eyelet Strength
Pull Through Strength
Toe Strap Breakage
Reinforcement Effectiveness
Tongue Strength
Setting Strength
Lace Strength
Seam Strength
Zipper Operability (Open/Closed)
Lead Content
Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes
Colorfastness to Perspiration
Colorfastness to Light
Colorfastness to Chlorinated Pool Water
Water Repellency
Water Resistance - Rain test
Appearance after Storage
UV Protection
Method
ASTM D1683 (Mod.)
ASTM D2062
16 CFR 1303
AATCC 23
AATCC 15
AATCC 16
AATCC 162
AATCC 22
AATCC 35
Storage method
AATCC 183
Instructions:
(1) SGS and INTERTEK labs are authorized to conduct testing for NTO.
(2) Vendor should refer to PO to inform the Lab whether it's first or re-order and the specification of each test item.
(3) Lab should automatically conduct the "Optional" test item(s) based on the guidance specified, if necessary. The
test report should clearly state if any sample is exempted.
(4) Vendor should provide all colors to the Lab to conduct testing.
(5) Vendor will require to conduct second test for flammability on the semi-finished or end-product when needed.
(6) Final decision on acceptance will be made by NTO.
(7) Test Report should be emailed to attn. PQM Manager/Brand,
(Norm Thompson) [email protected];
(Sahalie) [email protected];
(Solutions)[email protected];
(Gold Violin) [email protected] ; and the applicant/vendor
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NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES
X. APPENDIX
1- READ AND COMPLY
2- SPECS, CARE & CONTENT SPECIFICATION SHEET
3- GARMENT LABELS
• Specifications
• Garment Label Examples: Sewn in garment
• Garment Label Examples: On body
4- ASTM CARE SYMBOLS
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NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES
1- READ AND COMPLY DOCUMENT
35
NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES
2- SPECS, CARE & CONTENT SPECIFICATION SHEET
36
NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES
3- GARMENT LABELS
Following are specifications for Norm Thompson garment labels. All labels should be ordered from
www.checkpointsystems.com
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NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES
GARMENT LABELS-Specifications (continued)
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NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES
GARMENT LABEL EXAMPLES: SEWN IN GARMENT
Following are examples of our different labels as they would be sewn into garments. Please note these are examples only
and your sizing/wording may differ from our examples.
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NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES
GARMENT LABEL: ACTUAL “ON BODY” EXAMPLES
40
NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES
GARMENT LABEL : ACTUAL “ON BODY” EXAMPLES (continued)
41
NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES
ASTM CARE SYMBOL GUIDE
42