Big Boat Cruising
Ourtime in the
Kimberley
Adventure beckons for one couple who
headed to the spectacular far north
aboard their Clipper Heritage 40.
By Jill Woolnough
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V
irtually everyone who buys a boat has a
dream to go with it. When my husband
Brian and I bought our first boat more than 20
years ago, our dream was to have a new way to
relax and explore the waterways near our home,
south of Newcastle on the New South Wales
coast.
But we always had the dream that one day we
would be able to afford something larger and take
waterways in the world, and to discover a lifestyle
to which we are both now committed.
But let me start at the beginning.
Brian and I met in South Africa. He was there
to further his career as a mining engineer; I was an
English nurse looking for adventure. We travelled
around southern Africa together, returned to Brian’s
home in Australia and settled into raising a family
and building Brian’s mining contracting business.
Eventually, retirement brought the
opportunity to relax and we decided to buy a
new boat that would reflect our more leisurely
lifestyle. We bought a new trawler-style Clipper
Heritage 40 three years ago and named it Ourtime
because, as Brian says, this is now “our time”.
NORTHWARD BOUND
off to explore further afield. We had a vision to
voyage north to the tropics and the Whitsunday
Islands, in particular.
But then a chance encounter on our
boat, a 40ft Clipper we called Ourtime, took
that modest dream and expanded it – and
expanded it again.
That encounter would take us halfway around
Australia to some of the most rugged and remote
We set sail north with no schedule to meet,
cruising at a gentle pace and enjoying a new life,
just the two of us together in the space of our
40ft boat.
At Urangan at the southern end of Hervey Bay
in Queensland, we met Vic and Ellen Hellmuth on
their power catamaran Sea Change. They were on
their way to the Kimberley in Western Australia.
They felt we were kindred spirits, so they asked us
if we would care to join them. Would we ever!
“Yes,” we said. “Just give us a couple of weeks
to get home and sort ourselves out.”
We had seen the Kimberley region a year
earlier by 4WD, and had always thought about
a trip there on a boat; maybe one of the cruise
ships you see in the big rivers. But we had never
considered taking Ourtime to such a faraway
place.
Vic is an incredible source of information,
having been to the Kimberley three times on his
boat, and we felt, with him and Ellen along, this
was our chance.
Two weeks after the offer, Brian and I returned
to Ourtime, ready to go.
I have to admit to having greater trepidation
than Brian. But the bug really bit me at Cape
Flattery, just 300nm from the northern tip of
Cape York. And it was in absurd circumstances …
The wind came up as we crossed from Hope
Island and we tucked into the bay at Cape Flattery.
My log book notes reflect my feelings at the time.
“Not going anywhere in this wind. Even the
birds can’t fly forwards. There’s white water on
top of white water.”
Moonrise over the Drysdale
River.
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Another diary entry: “We’re so close to
getting there that it would be a pity to stop now.
Add to that we suddenly got communication via
mobile phone! What a relief! Think I’ll stay now!”
TEAM EFFORT
Brian and I very much own and
drive the boat together.
Top: Ourtime at anchor in the
Berkeley River.
Above: Brian and Jill
Woolnough.
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Two days later, I wrote: “Very windy and rollie.
Don’t think I want to do this anymore. Starting to
feel seasick even at anchor!”
The next day, after Brian undertook a depth
survey in the dinghy, we moved the boat to a
more sheltered area of the bay.
Being fairly much alone together for months on
end reminded us of why we fell in love and why
we married. Brian and I very much own and drive
the boat together. Some of the tough jobs in
the engine room Brian has to do, but I am right
there with him, finding and handing him the tools.
We work well as a team, which is so necessary
when cruising in isolated areas.
The more we went through, the more we
trusted the boat and our combined skills.
Our Clipper proved she is a strong sea boat,
and she is also very comfortable. She has two
cabins and one bathroom, a great galley and a
comfortable saloon. Plenty of room for the two of
us and, in fact, much of our time in the Kimberley
we shared with other couples and friends. With
such a well laid out boat, at no time did Brian or
I feel our space was invaded.
My diaries reflect the life of the long-distance
cruiser; the highs and lows of the adventure as
the weather and the mechanical state of the boat
affect the mood of the crew.
One day I wrote of a fishing expedition in
the dinghy: “Spent a lot of the time caught up in
roots and branches of trees and hissy spitting at
each other. RSI setting in in the wrists after a very
short time trying to get the lure in the right place.
Of course, didn’t catch a fish!”
But the entry for that day concludes: “Very
surprised at the lack of mozzies and sandflies.
Another great day.”
The next day: “Squirt (our nickname for the
boat’s watermaker) refused to play so the water
situation isn’t all that brilliant. A half-minute
shower and dishes washed in sea-water. Pioneer
spirit diminishing as fast as the red wine!”
But there were sights to lift the heart, as well.
One day I saw a seagull hitching a ride on a turtle’s
back in the middle of the Arafura Sea!
The voyage from Hervey Bay to Darwin took
us four months and 350 hours of engine time.
We left the boat in Darwin through the cyclone
season, returning regularly for cleaning and
maintenance duties. In Cairns, we had installed
the watermaker and a screen door (to combat the
incessant insects). In Darwin, I bought a breadmaker and a little portable washing machine – all
important additions for a long voyage.
When we returned to continue the voyage,
I was so excited. It was a great day to start out to
sea again.
After a voyage down the massive King River
to Wyndham to pick up supplies and friends
Neville and Pat, we began the leg of the voyage
we had come all this way to experience.
FIRST TASTE
Above: Near King George Falls.
Below: The Ourtime ‘legend’, Neville
Jukes and a Berkeley River barra.
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The first taste of the spectacle of the Kimberley
region came early in Casuarina Creek and the
Berkeley River, where, after finally meeting up
with Vic and Ellen, we were treated to towering
cliff faces, waterfalls – and crocodiles.
My diary described our first full day there:
“Wonderful wake-up call with the birds. Fishing in a
creek today. Dinghied up to an area with waterfalls
and fresh pools – Pat, Neville and I had a sit in the
‘spas’. Served a gourmet meal by Pat and Neville of
macadamia crusted barramundi and an exotic fruit
dessert. Luxury. Another lovely day done.”
Then it was on to the almost legendary King
George River and its falls.
In the Drysdale River we met Don, the
“caretaker” of the area. He’s a hermit-type man
who lives alone in a camp near the river. He calls it
Alligator Camp. While he boils his billy for tea on
a rough wood fire and lives in a shack surrounded
by hundreds of square kilometres of sparsely
inhabited bush, the shack is solar-powered and he
has permanent internet access through a satellite
dish. Don took us on a long walk through the bush
to see ancient aboriginal rock paintings.
Like the aboriginal people, Don has learned to
walk the rough ground in bare feet. He told us the
skill is to tread softly and develop the technique of
rolling the foot as it detects something sharp.
The only negative aspect of the entire voyage –
at least that I still remember – was the lurking
presence of crocodiles. You don’t swim in those
giant rivers; you don’t even dangle your feet in the
water. In fact, in the Mitchell River I remember one
big fella who clearly disapproved of our presence. He
approached the boat often, and swum around us.
One day Brian and I were out in the dinghy and he
made a bee line for us. We high-tailed it out of there!
Aside from more than enough fish to feed us
and our friends for the duration, we were never
It was simply a matter of
phoning ‘Woolies’ and
putting in an order
short of fresh vegetables and fruits, nor even good
wine. The ships and barges that supply the fishing
and pearling fleets in the region are also happy to
supply cruisers. And that applies virtually all the
way from Cairns, around Cape Yorke and right
through the Kimberley.
It was simply a matter of phoning ‘Woolies’
and putting in an order. Well, maybe a bit more
than that. It demanded a bit of scheduling.
The ships also sold us fuel and, on rare
occasions, provided water. If we were really lucky,
they would even take our garbage. And they even
delivered people. Our close friends, Jan and Herb
Moloney, travelled on a mother ship from Cairns
and joined us at Margaret Bay on Cape York.
Other friends came and went from outposts
and even from a rock in the middle of the Mitchell
River – flown in by helicopter!
After two months exploring the rivers, creeks
and islands of the Kimberley, away from any
townships, we returned to Wyndham. For most
people, two months away from civilisation would
seem arduous and uncomfortable. Yet a little
thoughtful planning made the voyage exciting,
comfortable and relaxing.
The Woolnough’s recipe
for successful cruising
First and foremost, you’ll need a strong sense
of adventure tempered by a good dose of
common sense, plus …
• A good first-aid box
• A watermaker – and plenty of spare filters
• Satellite phone
• Basic mechanical capabilities, including
changing filters and impellers as well as basic
repairs
• Spares – bilge pumps, impellers, filters,
hoses and hose clamps
• A comprehensive tool kit
• A bread maker
• A small washing machine
• A cryovac machine for sealing food
Left: Supply ship Robert
Ladlow brings our ‘Woolies’
order.
Top: Ourtime rafted up with
Sea Change in the Casuarina
Creek. Some creek!
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OURTIME II
A quiet moment by the King
George River falls.
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After their Kimberley adventure, Brian and Jill
were hooked on the boating lifestyle.
“We are both totally committed to our
adventures,” says Jill. “And we decided we
needed a bigger boat if the adventure was going
to continue.”
In November last year, they took delivery of
Ourtime II, a Clipper Cordova 48.
“It has the extra space that gives us luxuries like
a built-in washing machine,” says Jill. “There’s a bigger
galley, with more storage space and an en-suite
bathroom. It’s such a luxury not having to share the
bathroom when we have friends on board!”
The Cordova 48 is a twin-engine, semiplaning hull design that is equally happy cruising
at eight knots or at 18 knots (33.3 km/h), if the
Woolnoughs need to get somewhere quickly – or
out of trouble.
In fact, Ourtime II included upgraded engines
to twin Cummins 440hp turbo diesels.
As well as additional power, Brian and Jill
have specified a range of options that reflect the
knowledge they gained on the Kimberley voyage
and that will make life aboard Ourtime II even
more comfortable.
These include a full awning over the aft
section of the flybridge as well as clears to
enclose the flybridge hardtop.
“It makes this space really comfortable in the
tropics and keeps out the insects and the sun,”
says Brian.
Another innovation is stainless steel railings
around the swim platform, with slots to take
acrylic inserts that will enclose the space – “so
we can use the platform and not have to worry
about crocs looking for an easy meal,” says Brian.
They have upgraded the anchor to an 80lb
stainless steel model and the 100m of chain to a
larger 13mm diameter.
“You can’t have enough chain,” says Brian.
The tender is a 4m aluminium dinghy, with
fixed gunwale foam buffers.
“Aluminium so the crocs can’t bite into it,”
explained Brian. “The buffers around the gunwale
are for times we are out of croc country and
swimming off the tender. It’s a lot easier to climb
back aboard. And the foam protects the boat
from the inevitable knocks on docks and marina
pontoons as well as protecting both boat and
tender when we are launching or retrieving it.”
There’s a watermaker of course, and luxuries
including foredeck sun-cushions. The flybridge
seating converts to berths and Brian has designed
an innovative chart locker and workstation that
straddles the companionway stairs.
Their next adventure is to Tasmania.
“I’ve heard so much about the wild west
coast and we are eager to explore it. Then New
Zealand; the Bay of Islands. We’ll ship the boat
over there, of course. The Tasman Sea is a bit
large for us yet.
“After that, who knows?” ¿