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Flag Case
A Hero’s Memorial
Designed for a 5x9fi' American flag, this case preserves the
carefully folded symbol of our nation and honors the memory of a
loved one. You can set this case on a tabletop or shelf, or hang it on a wall
courtesy of a clever pair of bevel-edge cleats.
Making a flag case usually requires cutting long, narrow 22fi° miters where the sides
meet the base. By fitting the base between the sides, our design eliminates these difficult
cuts, leaving you with easy 45° miters all around.
DP-00213
©Copyright Meredith Corporation 2002
Page 1 of 7
materials list
FINISHED SIZE
Part
T
W
L Matl. Qty.
A* sides
fi" 3›" 18‹"
C
2
B* base
fi" 3›" 24Â" C
1
C* side trim
›"
‡" 18‹"
C
4
D* base trim
›"
‡" 23Ø" C
2
E back
‹" 16Á" 16Á" H
1
F* side liners
‹" 3„" 16fi"
C
2
G*base liner
‹" 3„" 22Ø" C
1
H* back cleat
›"
2"
4"
C
1
I* wall cleat
›"
2"
7‹"
C
1
*Parts initially cut oversize. See the instructions.
Materials Key: C–cherry, H–hardboard.
Supplies: ¤" hardboard, #4×1" brass flathead wood
screws (12), #8×fi" flathead wood screw, #8×1fi" flathead wood screw, wall anchor, single-strength glass.
E
cutting diagram
‹ x 24 x 24" Hardboard
A*
A*
B*
‡ x 5fi x 96" Cherry *Plane or resaw to the thickness listed in the Materials List.
*
*
C / D
F*
I
F*
H
G*
‡ x 5fi x 96" Cherry
Page 2 of 7
TM
45°
1 MITER DETAIL
A
A
18‹"
A
A
45°
45°
B
B
45°
45°
24Â"
CUTTING THE SPLINE KERFS
STEP 1 Cut kerfs in both ends of the base B
and in the top ends of
the sides A .
Auxiliary fence
¤"
B
‹"
STEP 2 Mark the location of the bottom kerf
on one side A .
First, make the triangular frame
1 Plane a ‡×4×72" board to fi" thick for the sides (A)
and the base (B). Cut these parts to the width and about
1" longer than the lengths listed in the Materials List.
Save the extra stock for testing the spline-kerf cuts
later. Take care to plane your material accurately. It
must be exactly fi" thick for all the frame dimensions
to work.
2 Miter-cut parts A and B to length, to the dimensions
shown on Drawing 1. Note that all the miters cuts are
45° and that the base fits between the sides. Miter the
ends of your test piece for use later when setting up
your tablesaw to cut the spline kerfs in the sides (A).
STEP 3 Cut the bottom kerfs in the sides A .
45° drafting triangle
A
Mark
location.
Top kerf
previously cut
Cut where marked.
A
B
‹"
Page 3 of 7
TM
3 Referring to the three steps
shown on page 3 cut the spline
kerfs in the mitered ends of parts
A and B. Use your test piece to
verify the accuracy of your saw
setups before cutting the kerfs in
the parts.
4 Rip a Á×12" strip of ¤" hardboard, then crosscut three 3›"-long
splines. Test the fit of the splines in
the kerfs. We had to lightly sand our
splines for a good fit. Dry-assemble
the sides and base with the splines
to check the fit, then apply glue to
the miters and splines, and clamp
the frame together, as shown in
Photo A.
A
Add the trim, back,
glass, and liners
1 From the edge of a ‡"-thick,
25"-long board, rip six fi"-wide
strips for the side trim (C) and base
trim (D). Laying the strips on their
‡" faces, plane them to ›" thick.
Miter-cut two sets of trim to
length, one set each for the frame’s
front and back. The trim miters
match those of the frame. The outside edges of the trim and frame
are flush, as shown on Drawing 2.
2 Glue and clamp one set of trim
(C, D) to the frame’s front edge.
With the glue dry, clamp (do not
glue) the other set to the frame’s
back edge, and drill pilot and
countersunk shank holes, where
shown on Drawing 3. Set the
back trim aside.
3 To lay out the back (E), place
the frame’s back top 90° corner on
the 90° corner of a piece of ‹"
hardboard. Trace a line onto the
hardboard along the inside edge of
the base (B). Bandsaw and joint to
the line. Have a piece of singlestrength glass cut to fit inside the
frame, leaving a „" space all
around. (You also can use clear
acrylic sheet, and cut it with an 80tooth carbide-tipped blade.)
4 Resaw a ‡×3‹×36" board in
half, and plane it to ‹" thick for
the side liners (F) and base liner
(G). Cut these parts about ¤"
wider and fi" longer than the
Set the assembled frame on a flat surface, and draw its mitered corners together with a pair of bandclamps.
2 SIDE SECTION VIEW
#4 x 1" brass
F.H. wood screw
C
C
A
Wall
#8 x fi" F.H.
wood screw
F
H
E
Single-strength glass
›"
Drive the screw
into a stud or
use a wall anchor.
I
#8 x 1fi" F.H.
wood screw
Page 4 of 7
TM
TM
Page 5 of 7
D
C
Sand edges off
after assembly.
23Ø"
18‹"
18‹"
A
Mitered
ends
24◊Â"
B
A
Mitered
ends
¤ x Á x 3›"
hardboard spline
3 EXPLODED VIEW
22Ø"
16Á"
3›"
Single-strength glass
16Á" 90°
F
Mitered
ends
G
F
3„"
16fi"
90°
2"
23Ø"
D
C
2"
45° bevel
7‹"
18‹"
I
#4 x 1" brass
F.H. wood screw
7⁄64" shank hole, countersunk
on back side
E
16Á"
45° bevel H
16Á"
#8 x fi" F.H.
wood screw
Mitered ends
#8 x 1fi" F.H. wood screw mounted to wall
4 CLEATS
10"
45° bevel
4"
45°
I
45°
45°
7‹"
dimensions listed. Miter-cut the
parts to fit inside the frame. The fit
should be snug, but not tight. To
determine the exact width for the
liners, place the frame facedown
on your bench, and lay in the glass
and back. Slide the liners into the
frame, and mark their finished
width by striking a line even with
the back edges of the frame.
Remove the liners, and trim them
to width.
5 Plane a ‡×2×10" board to ›"
thick to make a blank for the back
cleat (H) and wall cleat (I). Make a
45° bevel rip along one edge,
where shown on Drawing 4. Cut
parts H and I from the blank where
dimentioned. Drill a countersunk
hole in the wall cleat (I) for attachment to the wall later.
6 Assemble the glass, liners (F, G),
and back (E) in the frame. Screw
the back side trim (C) in place.
Glue and clamp the back cleat (H)
to the back with its 90° corner nested in the corner formed by the
trim, and the bevel oriented as
shown on Drawing 2. With the
glue dry, remove the back, drill a
pilot and countersunk shank hole
in the back and cleat, and drive in
the screw.
2"
H
Saw kerf
B
Back Cleat
H
Wall Cleat
I
The mating cleat bevels provide concealed attachment. Level the wall
cleat during installation to ensure a level-hanging case.
coats of satin polyurethane, sanding lightly with 220-grit sandpaper
between coats.
2 With the finish dry, lay the frame
facedown on your workbench.
Place the glass in the frame, insert
the liners, then the folded flag. Add
the back, and screw the rear side
and base trim (C, D) in place. If
you need to fold your flag to fit the
case, see the sidebar, “The correct
way to fold the American flag” on
page 7.
3 Fasten the wall cleat (I) to the
wall, either screwing into a wall
stud, or using a wall anchor. Check
Apply finish and
assemble the case
1 Remove the liners and glass.
Sand all the parts, except the back,
to 220 grit. Ease any sharp edges
with a sanding block. Apply two
the cleat for level. Hang the case.
Note how the back cleat (H) and
the wall cleat (I) interlock in
Photo B and on Drawing 2. ¿
Produced by Marlen Kemmet
Project design: Chuck Hedlund
Graphic Design: Jamie Downing
Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine, Lorna Johnson
Photographs: Marty Baldwin
©Copyright Meredith Corporation 2002
The purchase of these plans does not transfer
any copyright or other ownership interest in the
plans, the design, or the finished project to the
buyer. Buyer may neither reproduce the plans
for sale nor offer for sale any copies of the finished project.
Page 6 of 7
TM
The correct way to fold the
American flag
Our flag case is shaped to hold a
properly-folded 5×9fi' American flag.
Here’s how it’s done.
1
Step 1
Fold the flag in half.
You now have open and
closed edges.
2
Step 2
Fold in half again toward
the open edge.
3
Step 3
Fold the closed corner
toward the open edge,
forming a triangle.
4
Step 4
Fold the point of the
triangle toward the
blue field.
6
9
Steps 5–11
Fold the open corner of
the square toward the
closed edge. Tuck the
resulting triangle into the
rest of the flag.
7
10
Continue folding until
you have one square of
the field left.
Steps 12–13
8
5
11
12
13
Page 7 of 7
TM
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ISSUE 209 DEC/JAN
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