EAST INDIES SPICE EXPLORATION WITH IAN BURNET
“…I would dream of the fabled Spice Islands. Images of
palm-fringed tropical islands backed by towering volcanoes
filled my imagination and I saw myself arriving on their sandy
shores by sailing boat, like the explorers, adventurers, traders
that had gone before me… My boat was a Bugis Phinisi…” (from
‘Spice Islands,’ 2011, by Ian Burnet). We have teamed up with
author and Spice Islands expert, Ian Burnet, to curate this
fascinating look at the colonial history of Indonesia and its role
in the international spice trade during the 17th century. This
12-day tour travels in an eastward arc capturing the maritime
route of the early colonials who traversed the Indonesian waters
in search of the precious spices found within this small band of
islands. Mr. Burnet will lend his expertise and you will
transported back in time as you learn about historic outposts,
visit the colourful native villages, experience the marketplaces,
and smell the aroma of the spice orchards. These unforgettable
on-land excursions will be matched by the sea as the Ombak
Putih wends her way through stunning volcanic islands
interspersed with stops at pristine beaches giving guests ample
time to swim and snorkel in some of the richest and most
magical waters in the world. Note: As we would like to start
early we suggest our guests arrive in Maumere (Flores) a day
before the cruise starts in order to enjoy the full programme. A
pre-cruise option visiting the Ende region in Flores and the
famous Kelimutu volcano, known for its three-coloured crater
lakes, is available on request. The airfare is not included in the
cruise price but we will be happy to assist you with any
information and local flight reservations.
ITINERARY
Day 1 - Flores
Your tour leader will meet you and organise your transfer from Maumere
Airport to the harbour where the Ombak Putih will be anchored and waiting. If
you have arrived the previous day, there will be time in the morning for a tour
of the small village of Watublapi to enjoy a village dance and see a
demonstration of the local women’s traditional weavings. The 45-minute drive
to the village is spectacular. Watublapi is a small community in the Sikka
district well known for its fine traditional ikat weaving. Whereas many other
local weaving communities have switched to industrially spun yarn and
chemical dyes for the sake of saving time and money, the weavers of
Watublapi still use the traditional, handspun yarn made out of local cotton, as
well as local natural dyes. When all the guests have arrived and settled in their
cabins, we will weigh anchor and navigate the Cape of Flowers (Cabo de
Flores), so named by a Portuguese expedition crew in the early 16th century,
and head for the port of Larantuka. En route, we are certain to enjoy our first
swim and snorkel in these beautiful waters.
Day 2 - Larantuka
In the morning we will moor close to the town of Larantuka, the capital of
Flores Timur and a central hub for early colonisation and Catholic clerical
activities. There we will see the five Catholic churches and the ‘Stations of the
Cross’ built along the waterfront. Later we will cross the Flores Strait and visit
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the village of Lohayong on the island of Solor; a lot of the villagers here make
a living by processing sea salt. The salt production is seasonal, but with a bit
of luck we will be able to witness the process. After that we will visit the Ruins
of Fort Henricus built by Dominican Friars in 1566 to protect their spiritual
work from their enemies. Early Portuguese sandalwood traders left this task to
the missionaries. The fort was later taken over by the Dutch East Indies
Company (VOC). Back on the ship we will have a beautiful cruise through the
Solor Strait with the Lili Boleng volcano on the island of Adonara as the
backdrop as we navigate to Lembata Island. As always, we will plan time to
stop for a swim and a snorkel.
of mainly Indonesian islands separated by deep water straits from both the
Australian and Asian continental shelves. The islands of Wallacea have never
been linked by land to either Asia or Australia, and as a result have several
species of mammals as well as a mix of flora and fauna from both continents.
We will anchor in a delightful bay where the island appears virtually
impenetrable from the sea. We will find fishermen drying their catch on the
beaches, we will visit local villages and we can expect to find some great
swimming and snorkelling in this area, which is known for its ‘gin clear’ water.
Day 3 - Lembata
This morning our destination is Romang Island, where we will go ashore to
witness the lives of villagers in this remote region of the archipelago. While the
island has recently been largely occupied with mining interests, most of the
people living on Romang are farmers. They plant corn, yams, cassava, sago,
vegetables, and dry rice. Back on the boat we will have lunch while we cruise
eastward to the tiny island of Mapora where we will spend the rest of the
afternoon snorkelling and beachcombing.
Our destination is the village of Lamalera, on the island of Lembata, which is
one of the few remaining places in the world where villagers hunt whales using
traditional methods. Bordering the Timor Straits, the village is in an area long
recognised as hunting-grounds for the 19th century British and American
whaling voyagers. Since at least 1836 these villages have taken various
species of whales and today, these traditions remain to support the village.
On the beach we will see the small craft used for hunting the sperm whales
and perhaps preparation for their hunt if whales are in the vicinity. This
small-scale hunting (no more than 25 per year) is considered sustainable,
and the local economy has some dependency upon it. We might join a short
trip on of one of the boats and admire the harpooners standing on the edge of
the bowsprit. In the afternoon we will cruise further east, trailing this chain of
increasingly remote islands to Alor.
Day 4 - Alor
In the morning we will reach the enchanting bay of Kalabahi on Alor. We will
visit a traditional village in the mountains where we may witness a war dance
around the mesbah, the ritual heart of the village. Here we will see the moko
drums, which for centuries have been part of a wife’s dowry and are thought to
originate from Indochina. Alor also produces Ikat cloth famous for its intricate
patterns and bright colours. In the evening we will proceed further east and
reach the western Daya Islands in the southern Banda Sea.
Day 5 - Barat Daya
Today, as we cross between the Lesser Sunda Islands group into the
Moluccas, we will enter the region of Barat Daya, meaning ‘south-west.’
Known as the ‘forgotten islands,’ this group of islands is so far off the beaten
path that it is largely isolated from the rest of Indonesia and from the rest of
the world. The first island we will encounter is Wetar, the largest in the group.
Together with Timor, Nusa Tenggara, Sulawesi, and most of Maluku, the Barat
Daya Islands are part of Wallacea, a biogeographical designation for a group
Day 6 - Romang Island
Day 7 - Damar Island
In the morning we will reach Damar Island, the next destination in our voyage
as we track the volcanic string of islands known as Indonesia’s ‘Ring of Fire.’
This several-thousand-kilometre chain begins at Java in the west and ends at
the Banda Islands to the south of Ambon. Damar is volcanic in nature and
was one of the few islands outside of the Bandas that produced nutmeg. All
the trees were destroyed by the Dutch East Indies Company in 1648 to further
monopolise the spice trade. We will visit a small village consisting of simple
huts made from the leaves of the sago palm. Staple foods of the locals are
sweet potatoes (ubi), bananas and fish. Birds abound in the coastal
landscapes with the endemic Damar Flycatcher being the preeminent avifauna
species.
Day 8 - Manuk
Continuing on our way to the historically famous Banda Islands, we will pass
four spectacular volcanic islands each standing alone and jutting from the
clear blue ocean. Known as stratovolcanoes, they are steep-sided and built up
of alternating layers of lava and ash or cinders due to successive millenniums
of periodic eruptions. For now, however, they express a quiet beauty for us to
enjoy. We will make a stop at Serua, the last in this extended string of
volcanoes, which is home to one of the few villages in the chain. If we have
enough time, we will go to this rarely-visited village where we can observe the
remotest of Indonesian cultures. Since the eruptions in the 1960s and 70s,
many of these island populations have migrated to other parts of the
Moluccas. Today, we will also reach the small island of Manuk, which is a bird
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and marine sanctuary, uninhabited by humans. Frigate birds, gannets and
other marine birds have their nests in the trees. If the tide allows, we will
make a landing and go in for an up-close look at the birds and the wildlife. In
the late afternoon, we will proceed towards the Spice Islands.
Day 9 - Banda Islands
Should the breezes favour us, as we approach Run, the first of the Banda
Islands, we will experience the delightful fragrance of nutmeg in the air. The
islands have had a long and fascinating history, including being among the
most expensive real estate in the world. Spices, foreign traders, wars and
earthquakes have all featured heavily in their chequered past. An amazing
historical footnote is the fact that in 1667, under the Treaty of Breda, this
small island was ceded by the English to the Dutch in exchange for
Manhattan. The Bandas have attracted regional and international traders for
more than 3,000 years. Prior to 1500, no European had ever landed on their
shores, but there had always been Asian traders. Up until the middle of the
19th century (with the exception of Damar Island until 1648), this was the
only place on Earth where the spices nutmeg and mace could be found and
thus the centre of the spice world. After navigating Run, we will arrive at the
island of Ai. Here we go ashore on a beautiful beach to meet with the
villagers. A short walk brings us to Fort Revenge which was built by the English
before being captured by the Dutch. Behind the fort we will explore our first
nutmeg plantation, where the evergreen nutmeg trees will be identifiable by
the hundreds of ripening yellow fruits that hang from their branches. During
lunch, the Ombak Putih will move to the main Island of Bandaneira. This
beautiful, quaint little colonial outpost on the island of Neira is the capital
town of the Banda Islands and is full of relics of the colonial era: forts,
cannons and beautiful Dutch-colonial homes. With the Ombak Putih moored
in front of the picturesque Hotel Maulana on the waterfront, we will enjoy an
afternoon strolling through the old town viewing the restored planters’
mansions, fortifications and churches and get a feel for its incredible history.
We will find that Fort Belgica built by the Dutch East India Company was an
early blueprint of the Pentagon. The population here is an interesting mix of
Malay, Arab, Dutch and Melanesian. At the end of the day we will spend a
quiet evening under the stars in the lagoon.
Day 10 - Banda Islands
famous.
Day 11 - Banda Islands
The morning is free to spend at our leisure in Banda Neira. We invite the fit
and ambitious to make an early morning ascent of the Gunung Api volcano.
While this is a challenging climb up a narrow track to an elevation of about
600 metres, the reward when reaching the top of the ‘Fire Mountain’ it is well
worth the effort. Revel in a stunning and unforgettable view over the Banda
Sea, the surrounding islands, and the crater itself. When it is time to depart
for our final stop in Ambon, we will navigate through the ‘Sonnegat’ (sun’s
gap) between Bandanaira and Gunung Api, most likely under the escort of one
or more ‘Kora-Kora’, which are long sea canoes, rowed by over a dozen
muscled men and used in ancient times to attack the invading colonists.
Day 12 - Ambon
We will wake to find the Ombak Putih anchored in the harbour on the island of
Ambon where the Portuguese arrived in 1513 to establish their regional
authority. The Portuguese never managed to control the local trade in spices
and failed in their attempts to establish their authority over the Banda Islands,
being driven out by the Dutch in 1605 when the Dutch set up the
headquarters of the VOC. Ambon therefore has a rich and colourful history
having been within the centre of the world-altering spice trade. After breakfast,
depending upon flight departure times, we may have a morning programme to
see the town, the markets and explore Ambon’s history. A timely departure in
the provided transportation will transfer everyone to the Ambon Airport for
their selected onward destinations.
Please Note:
Every effort will be made to carry out our cruise itinerary as planned; however,
our itineraries are subject to change at the captain’s discretion. When touring
at sea, weather, currents, and even harbour masters don’t always co-operate
with our planned itinerary, which sometimes make our planned schedules
challenging or even impossible to carry out. For that reason, our written
itineraries must be approached with reasonable flexibility. We reserve the right
to make alterations due to circumstances beyond our control and/or other
factors, in the best interests of all. It’s all part of the adventure.
Over the course of the morning we will cross over to Lonthor, the largest island
in the Banda chain. We will visit the fortress Hollandia and the nutmeg
plantation of the last ‘perkenier’ on the island. The perkeniers were the small
land-holder farmers who managed the plantations for the Dutch; each land
parcel was known as a ‘perk’ (plural: ‘perken’). By midday, we find our way
back to the Ombak Putih for lunch. The afternoon will be filled with snorkelling
the spectacular kaleidoscopic waters for which the Banda Islands are so
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YOUR SHIP: OMBAK PUTIH
YOUR SHIP:
Ombak Putih
VESSEL TYPE:
Yacht
LENGTH:
42 metres
PASSENGER CAPACITY:
24
BUILT/REFURBISHED:
1997 / Refurbished 2015
The Ombak Putih is a traditional Indonesian schooner custom
built from Iron wood by Buginese ship builders. The Ombak
Putih is 42 metres long and provides accommodation for up to
24 guests in 12 comfortable cabins. With approximately 400
square meters of public space divided over 2 main decks, the
Ombak Putih offers both open and covered space in
abundance, allowing for privacy and serene relaxing. All cabins
are located below deck and offer private bathroom, portholes,
individually controlled air conditioning, and ample storage
space including safety deposit box. Led by Captain Feri, 14
dedicated crew members coming from all regions of the
archipelago make your stay with us a memorable experience.
Spacious twin shared cabin with twin bunk beds or double bed
Each cabin has a private bathroom with toilet and hot shower
Washbasin and soap toiletries in your cabin
Cabins have individually controlled air
conditioning
Towels and beach towels that are regularly changed
Valuables and travel documents can be stored in the ship's safe
Dining in spacious air conditioned lounge
Teak wooden furniture in lounge, cabins and on deck
Spacious sun and semi-covered decks
Free tea, coffee and mineral water
Excellent food and snacks (vegetarian food on request)
A selction of wines, cold beer and other alcoholic drinksare
offered for sale
Fresh water on-deck shower
Outdoor sleeping facilities
Professional cruise director
Unlimited use of our snorkeling equipment and 2 sea canoes
Television, DVD and music center in lounge
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INSIDE YOUR SHIP
Stateroom
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PRICING
22-Sep-2017 to 03-Oct-2017
Stateroom
6950 USD pp
16-Sep-2018 to 27-Sep-2018
Stateroom
7425 USD pp
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[email protected] | wildearth-travel.com