Glenrock
General
This is Newcastle’s own little sport climbing crag with quick access from surrounding suburbia!
Glenrock State Conservation Area is looked after by National Parks and is one of the last pieces of
rainforest left along the Hunter Valley coastline. The rock quality isn’t your Blue Mt’s or Nowra
but it still provides for some nice, well-protected, pumpy lines. The rock is still sandstone but is a
little chossy and conglomerate in places. But generally on established routes, the rock is ok.
Glenrock is widely used by a number of
other users for it’s great mountain biking
and bush walking. Glenrock is also used
by the Scouts Association, with it’s own
training facility, which is located close
to the lagoon. Many others like to enjoy
the scenery from lookouts, have picnics,
swim, surf or fish at Dudley and
Burwood beaches or you can walk along
the “Yeulerbah Walking Track” which
forms part of the Great North Walk.
Whilst in the park, please respect all the
rules that apply to the National Parks.
There have been a number of other lines
put up in Glenrock over the years.
What’s now known as the “Middle
Earth” wall has been top-roped climbed
and abseiled on by the Scouts and other
members of the public for over 30 years.
There was even a Scout back in the 70’s
that spent a number of months living out
of the small cave on the Middle Earth
wall, don’t know why. To date, no
routes had been lead free till these
recorded, first ascensions listed within.
There have been a number of free
ascents of the “Eagle Rock” lookout,
just above the chapel near the Scout
camp. Some old rusty bolts can still be
seen on the face today.
Left: Brendan Fraser cranking off
those deep pockets on ‘Scotch on the
Glen-rocks’ (22), Middle Earth wall
Location
Location, location, location! If it weren’t here it would probably never have been climbed on! The
suburbs of Merewether, Kahibah and Dudley surround Glenrock. Glenrock lives just 5km east of
Charlestown off Burwood Road via Dudley Road, and 5km south of Newcastle via the Pacific
Highway.
The easiest way to gain access to this crag is to park your car at the Burwood road car park, just
near where the cycle way cuts across the road. Follow the marked walking trail down a wooden
walkway and along the track for a further 400m. Walk past a suspension bridge and keep
following the track keeping the creek on you’re left. Up a little rocky hill past an ant mound and a
further 250m up the track you will find “Middle Earth” wall, the main wall described.
“Centennial Glen-Rock” is located directly opposite the “Middle Earth” wall on the opposite side
of the creek.
1. Centennial Glen-Rock:
The following two climbs were put up in the rain, on the day of the Hunter Valley Guidebook
release. The rock here can be quite sandy, but there is still potential here for more lines. Located
under Leichhardt lookout on the northern side of the lagoon. Walk down stairs from lookout; step
off right when crossing small bridge.
1. Glenrock Rubble
Start on the far right of the cave, up past 4 fixed hangers to chain lower off.
[4*B] [JP, TH, 26/11/03]
22
10m
2. Suspect
Steep wall on the left of the cave 6m left of ‘GR’. Can get wet near the top in rain.
[4*B] [TH, JP, 26/11/03]
22
10m
2. Middle Earth:
Located on the southern side of the lagoon. The rock here is of the better quality than on the
opposite side of creek. If it’s short, technical, sport climbing you’re after, this is the place for you.
1. Rock Sucking Cowboys
Start on the right of the small cave, trending left to good holds, then anchors.
[3*B] [TH, 10/04]
18
23
4. ** The Stairs of Cirith Ungol
Start 2m left of #3 ‘WITW’, nice sustained climbing.
[3*B] [TL, 13/1/04]
22
11m
6. * Hand Shandy
Starting as for #5 ‘SOTG’, up face just right of arête with some nice thin holds.
[3*B] [JJ, TH, 15/3/04]
21
11m
7. Project (Vanessa Wills)
The steep wall just left of #6, 4 rings to lower off.
[4*B] [???????]
??
10m
The following two climbs ascend the small wall between Middle Earth wall and the Fish Bowl.
16
10. I’m not going to lie to you…. Nice
19
14m
Start 4m left of the fig root. Up nice slab to
steeper wall, trickier than it looks.
[6*B] [JJ, WN 16/9/04]
11. Project (Trent Lee)
??
Up beside the large loose block to
overhung finish.
[6*B] [????]
15m
13. * Risky Business
25
11m
2m right of #14 ‘BS’, up steep start past 4
bolts to lower off.
[4*B] [JJ, TH, 9/06/04]
11m
5. * Scotch On the Glen-rocks
22
11m
Start just right of the arête, up past 2 bolts then moving right on nice pockets to finish as for #4.
[4*B] [TH, JJ, 15/3/04]
8. Hobbits Pockets
From the block, head up pockets past 2 bolts.
[2*B] [VW, 9/04]
The biggest wall in Glenrock so far, still some projects here also. This rock on this wall has a
little less strength than the middle earth wall but still has some good climbs on offer.
12. ** Prime Time
25
12m
Joins #13 ‘RB’ at the 3rd U-bolt. Bouldery
moves, but a safer and nicer start to #13
‘RB’.
[5*B] [JJ, 16/9/04]
2. * Gimli’s Gripe
19
12m
Left of small cave, tricky move to start, up fixed hangers to chain lower off. Good warm up!
[4*B] [TL, 24/12/03]
7m
16
3. Fish Bowl:
10m
There is a variant on the ring on the left of this line, directly above the cave, going at about the
same grade.
3. Watcher In The Water
Just left of #2 ‘GG’, easy moves to second bolt, then it’s in ya face to the top.
[4*B] [TL, 13/6/04]
9. Entmoot
Start 2m left of #8 ‘HP’ directly behind large tree, up past 2 bolts to lower off.
[2*B] [VW, 9/04]
14. * Bed Swerver
23
10m
Start on the block 2m right of the arête, up
juggy wall to thin top moves.
[4*B] [TH, JJ, 9/06/04]
15. Project (Trent Lee)
??
The arête 2m left of #14 ‘BS’.
[4*B] [?????]
WN = Wayne Novach
JJ = Justin Jefferson
TH = Tim Haasnoot
VW = Vanessa Wills
TL= Trent Lee
Ferns and Fings 18 9m
Moss Monster
17 8m
Fried Lichen
16 8m
10m
7m