SAPA! Shopping List for Your New Kitty Essential Food Bowl -­‐ We recommend ceramic or metal. Each cat needs his or her own bowl for wet food. Cats may share dried food bowls. Deep Water Bowl -­‐We recommend ceramic, metal or a running water fountain. Be sure it is sturdy so it does not spill easily. Water should be changed at least once a day. Litter Box-­‐ Even if you already have a cat, you will need an additional box for your new kitty. A litter box can be shared once two cats have gotten to know each other. Kittens may need smaller boxes initially; for older kittens and adults, a box is never too big – a good rule of thumb is 1 and ½ times as long as the cat should be the minimum length of the box. Be sure to wash out the litter box at least twice per month and change the litter. Litter -­‐ Choose a clumping, smooth litter that is unscented or is only slightly scented. Research has shown cats prefer scoop-­‐able litter and don’t usually like Feline Pine, Wheat Scoop, etc., though once your cat is used to your house you can try these alternative types of litter. Litter Scooper -­‐ Litter should be scooped twice a day. Cats are very clean animals and if the litter box is dirty they may go outside the box. If you go on vacation and someone comes in only once a day, put out extra boxes. Premium Cat Food -­‐ there is much debate about what types of cat food is best, wet or dry, etc. For the best recommendations for your cat check with your vet. Most folks agree low quality foods (like Meow Mix, Wal-­‐Mart Brand, Friskies, etc) are higher in calories which can lead to problems like obesity and should be avoided. Toys -­‐ Start out with one or two toys. Most cats like the fishing pole with feather attachments on the end. Most cats also like little toy mice. Ask the foster parent about your new cat’s favorite toys. You should buy or make new toys on a regular basis. Try rubbing a new toy with catnip first. Often string and a paper bag become their favorites. Scratching Surface -­‐ Every cat needs several different surfaces to scratch on for exercise, stress relief and claw management. Have at least one on the very first day and add more later. Cats like to scratch on sturdy objects that don’t move, are long enough to stretch their legs, and/or are scented with catnip. Providing different textures and angles will keep the cats interest and save your furniture and carpet. Add catnip periodically and replace scratchers when old. A good first day scratcher are the cardboard ones that are flat on the floor or tilted. Remember: have some thing for them to scratch on from day one. Cat Carrier -­‐ We recommend hard sided or soft. Top loaders are more expensive but it can be easier to get a reluctant cat in them. A cardboard carrier will do to get your new kitty home from adoptions but be sure to replace it with a good carrier right away. Even a friendly, tame cat can tear its way out of a closed cardboard carrier in a matter of minutes, and these carriers are not sturdy and the bottoms often fall out from them. A reliable carrier is essential for emergencies and trips to the vet. Desirable Nail Trimmers or Clippers -­‐ Save yourself trips to the vet or groomer by trimming your cats’ nails yourself. Regular trimming will prevent damage from unwanted scratching. Grooming and Shedding Brushes -­‐ Brushing reduces the amount of shedding on carpet and furniture. It is also a pleasant treat for your kitty and helps create a bond. For long-­‐ and medium-­‐haired cats, wire brushes are best; for short-­‐haired cats, use a fine comb. Kitty Greens -­‐ Providing cats with greens can help save house plants. If you have a yard or planter pots, you can save money by growing your own kitty grass and catnip. Cozy Cat Bed -­‐ Round or oval shaped ones with a small padded lip all around are favorites of many cats. Cats usually do not like beds placed on the floor but prefer them on your bed, the couch or next to windows. Get beds that are easily washed. Collar and Tag -­‐ Buy only cat safety collars that stretch or have a pull-­‐apart safety latch. Luxuries -­‐A big, sturdy cat tree. You can get great deals online, and cats especially like the type with hammock type perches. Cats need to stretch from toe to toe, so make sure you get one tall enough for them to stretch their complete body length. Also you could get an enclosed outside area or outdoor cat proof fencing. This will provide total security for your cat, and peace of mind for you. 10 Really Good Reasons to Keep Your Cat Indoors Won’t get hit by a car Won’t be eaten by a coyote Won’t be eaten by hawk or owl Won’t be attacked by stray or unleashed dogs Won’t be poisoned accidentally or intentionally Won’t become infested with fleas, ticks, worms or contract a fatal disease Won’t roam too far and become lost Won’t be scooped up by Animal Control or an angry neighbor and end up at the shelter Won’t be stolen Won’t be killed or tortured by a person with cruel intentions Beating Boredom There is ample evidence that cats who spend their lives entirely indoors live much longer than their indoor/outdoor or outdoor-­‐only counterparts. But keeping an indoor cat happy as well as healthy means providing more than just good nutrition and regular veterinary care, you must also enrich your kitty's environment. Eliciting a cat's natural behaviors with hunting and foraging games can do wonders for your companion's well-­‐being. With a little creativity, you can keep your cat stimulated and interested, even in a small apartment and on a limited budget. And the good news is that enrichment research has shown that toys that are removed and then returned after several weeks regain much of their novelty; extend your enrichment budget by rotating your cat's toys regularly. Foraging Fun -­‐ Separate each day's food rations into small batches. Place the clusters around the house and then toss a few small treats in random directions. Not only will this encourage active foraging, it'll also keep kitty from scarfing down her food too quickly. Pleasurable Puzzles -­‐ Toss a few treats into a square Rubbemaid bottle and leave it on the floor with the lid off for a great beginner puzzle. Any plastic container with a secure lid can become a hanging puzzle. just cut two or three slots around the bottom outer edge of the container and place a few treats in the center. String a cord through the lid and hang this puzzle over a doorknob. Once your cat gets the hang of it, you can encourage exercise by raising it higher. Scent Searching -­‐ Use old socks as washable scent baits. Just mark the sock with a dab of perfume, lotion, vanilla extract or even peanut butter, or place a pinch of any aromatic spice inside, then rub it over a slice of lunchmeat to pick up the scent. Scatter the socks throughout the house and your cat will be on the prowl for hours, delighted by the variety of scents. If you're pressed for time, simply mark a scent trail with a bit of cheese and then hide the cheese at the end of the trail. Bird Watching -­‐ Attach a suction-­‐cup bird feeder outside your cat's favorite window. Hungry birds will provide hours of entertainment. Don't place feeders too close to the ground as it leaves birds vulnerable to enemy attacks, and be sure to keep the window closed; excited cats can push right through screens. Mouse Trap -­‐ Leave a ping-­‐pong ball in the bathtub and watch as your cat makes it sail around the curves during her hunt for the elusive orb. Crafty Cardboard -­‐ Use cardboard boxes as beds, dens, tunnels and mazes. Make a "busy box" by attaching small toys to short lengths of cord and suspending them from the ceiling of a large box. Cut window flaps in the den at various heights. Add a "Tiger Tug," a miniature version of a game popular with both tigers and chimps. Feed both ends of a length of cord into the box through small holes. Tie a toy or a large knot on each end. When the cat tugs at one end, the other end mysteriously comes to life. For multi-­‐cat households, run the ends into separate boxes. Biting and Scratching When cats become overly excited during play with humans, they usually bite and start to scratch. Whenever your cat gets her claws out, stopping the play session often causes the cat to retract her claws. If she does so, praise the cat and resume playing. If not, sternly say "No claws, kitty!" At this stage, the cat will not understand what you are saying, but she will soon learn. The play session will not resume until kitty puts her claws away. If she does not, just walk away and ignore her. Whenever the cat bites too hard, let her know that she is hurting you by responding with: "OUCH" Walk away and end the play session immediately. Cats, especially kittens, love to play, and they love to play with their owners. Ending a play session is an extremely effective punishment. The cat soon learns that it is her own rough behavior that causes an abrupt end of an enjoyable play session. Provide your cat with acceptable ways to expend her energy and act out her predatory nature. Give your cat active and regular play sessions and she will be less likely to bite and scratch you. Cat-­‐Proofing Your House Get "Down and Dirty" -­‐ Put on some old clothes and get down on the floor at a cat's level. You'll spot tempting hazards you may never have noticed from your human point of view. Protect Valuables -­‐ Cats are inquisitive and curious (some might say "snoopy"), so you won't want to leave Great-­‐Aunt Pearle's hand-­‐painted china vase sitting on the coffee table. Breakables -­‐ Put away any other breakable treasures that are remotely accessible to your cat. Remember that adult cats can, and will, jump onto shelves and counters, so put yourself into the mind of the cat, and look around, and remove anything you value. Other Destroyables -­‐ Kittens will climb your furniture and drapes. Consider covering cloth furniture with a purchased cover, or even with a blanket or bedspread. Drapes should be confined to off-­‐limit rooms, or at the least, tied up and out of reach for the time being. Poisonous Plants -­‐ Kittens and adult cats love to play with plants-­‐-­‐the motion of leaves moving in a draft is irresistable. Unfortunately, part of their play involves biting and tasting-­‐-­‐eating some plants can be fatal, so get rid of those, or hang them safely out of reach. There is a comprehensive list at the bottom of this handout of plants that are poisonous to animals. You might even want to consider artificial plants and flowers as a substitute-­‐-­‐just make sure they don't have easily detachable (and ingestible) berries, small twigs and such. Hanging blinds cords -­‐ Kittens will love to bat around cords from hanging blinds, but can also get tangled up in them with disastrous consequences. Either anchor the cords firmly or, better yet, tie them up out of reach. Electrical and phone cords -­‐ Kittens' insatiable curiosity often leads them to one of the most dangerously tempting objects in the house: electric cords. Computers are a particular hazard with their numerous cords dangling temptingly. Invest in a cord management system or tape the cords together and fasten them out of reach. Those that don't manage easily can be sprayed with Bitter Apple, a very unpleasant tasting, but harmless substance. Do the same with long phone cords. Pest Poisons -­‐ Remove any ant or roach traps from accessible areas. Rat poison is fatal if ingested by a cat. If your cat will be an indoor/outdoor pet, also scour your yard, garage, cabinets, garage and attack – the people that lived in your house may have put something out you don’t even know about. Small Hazards -­‐ Rubber bands, paper clips, thumb tacks, broken balloons, Christmas tree tinsel and other small articles are irresistible play objects for kittens, but pose a choking hazard. Put them away in containers, and leave the tinsel off the tree this year. A good rule of thumb is to put away anything that you would not want a toddler to get his hands on-­‐-­‐the same reasoning goes for your kitten or cat. The Garage -­‐ It's probably better to label the garage "off-­‐limits" to your cat. Too many poisonous/hazardous materials are stored there. Anti-­‐freeze is particularly poisonous and is attractive to animals because of its sweet taste. Make sure that any spilled anti-­‐freeze is cleaned up immediately, and the garage floor thoroughly washed. Store all caustic and poisonous materials in a closed cabinet. Plants That Are Poisonous to Animals Aloe Vera Amaryllis Apple (seeds) Apple Leaf Croton Apricot (pit) Asparagus Fern Autumn Crocus Azalea Baby's Breath Bird of Paradise Branching Ivy Buckeye Buddhist Pine Caladium Calla Lily Castor Bean Ceriman Charming Dieffenbachia Cherry (seeds and wilting leaves) Chinese Evergreen Cineraria Clematis Cordatum Corn Plant Cornstalk Plant Croton Cuban Laurel Cutleaf Philodendron Cycads Cyclamen Daffodil Devil's Ivy Dieffenbachia Dracaena Palm Dragon Tree Dumb Cane Easter Lily Elaine Elephant Ears Emerald Feather English Ivy Eucalyptus Fiddle-­‐leaf Fig Florida Beauty Foxglove Fruit Salad Plant Geranium German Ivy Giant Dumb Cane Glacier Ivy Gold Dust Dracaena Golden Pothos Hahn's Self-­‐Branching Ivy Heartland Philodendron Hurricane Plant Indian Rubber Plant Janet Craig Dracaena Japanese Show Lily Jerusalem Cherry Kalanchoe Lacy Tree Philodendron Lily of the Valley Madagascar Dragon Tree Marble Queen Marijuana Mexican Breadfruit Miniature Croton Mistletoe Morning Glory Mother-­‐in-­‐Law's Tongue Narcissus Needlepoint Ivy Nephytis Nightshade Oleander Onion Oriental Lily Peace Lily Peach (wilting leaves and pits) Pencil Cactus Plumosa Fern Poinsettia (low toxicity) Poison Ivy Poison Oak Pothos Precatory Bean Primrose Red Emerald Red Princess Red-­‐Margined Dracaena Rhododendron Ribbon Plant Saddle Leaf Philodendron Sago Palm Satin Pothos Schefflera Silver Pothos Spotted Dumb Cane String of Pearls Striped Dracaena Sweetheart Ivy Swiss Cheese Plant Taro Vine Tiger Lily Tomato Plant (green fruit, stem and leaves) Tree Philodendron Tropic Snow Dieffenbachia Weeping Fig Yew INTRODUCING NEW KITTY TO YOUR HOME We strongly recommend isolating a new cat, in a room with minimal hiding places (such as a bathroom) for the first 1-­‐2 days. Visiting the cat often will help him or her bond to you without being overwhelmed by a new environment right away. If you have other pets, this is especially important. After the isolation period, allow the cat access to more and more of your home. Hiding, skittishness, and meowing is normal during the adjustment period. It can usually take a week or more for a cat to feel settled in a new home. Introducing Your New Cat To Your Pets Cats that live in the same house may never become the best of friends, but usually learn to at least tolerate each other with a minimum of conflict. You will need to take some time to introduce your cat to other family pets in order to prevent fearful and aggressive problems from developing. Introducing a new cat to other cats Confine the new cat to one room with its litter box, food, water and a bed. Feed the present cats and the newcomer near either side of the door to this room. Don't put the food so close to the door that the cats are too upset by each other to eat. This will help start things out right by associating something enjoyable (eating) with each other's presence. Gradually move the dishes closer to the door until the cats can eat calmly directly on either side. Next, use two door stops to prop open the door just enough to allow the cats to see each other, and repeat the whole process. Switch sleeping blankets between the new cat and resident cats so they have a chance to become accustomed to each other's scent. Also put the scented blankets underneath the food dishes. Once the new cat is using its box and eating regularly while confined, let it have free time in the house while confining the other cats. This switch provides another way for the cats to experience each other's scent without face to face meeting. It also allows the newcomer to become familiar with its new surroundings without being frightened by other animals. Avoid any interactions between the cats which result in either fearful or aggressive behavior. If these responses are allowed to become habit, they can be difficult to change. It's better to introduce the animals to each other so gradually that neither cat becomes afraid or aggressive. You can expect mild forms of these behaviors, but don't give them the opportunity to intensify. If either cat becomes fearful or aggressive, separate them, and continue the introduction process in series of gradual steps, as outlined above. You'll need to add another litter box and scoop and clean all the boxes more frequently. Make sure that none of the cats is being "ambushed" by another while trying to use the box. Except hissing, spitting and growling, if a fight breaks out, do not interfere directly. Instead throw a blanket over each cat, wrapping the blanket around the cat before picking him up. Separate the cats until they have calmed down. It may be best to leave the cats separated when you are not home until you are sure they are getting along well. Successful introductions require time and patience. Don't expect things to be perfect overnight! Introducing a new cat to a resident dog Dogs and cat that have not experienced each other will require some extra time to become accustomed to each other. Dogs usually want to chase and play with cats, and cats are usually afraid and defensive. You can use any of the above techniques for introducing cats to resident cats. In addition: if your dog does not already know the commands "sit", "down", "come", "stay", you should begin working on them. Little tidbits of food increase your dog's motivation to perform, which will be necessary in the presence of such a strong distraction as a new cat. Even if your dog already knows the commands, work with obeying commands in return for a tidbit. After the animals have become comfortable eating on either side of the door, and have been exposed to each other's scents as described above, you can attempt a face to face introduction in a controlled manner. Put your dog's leash on, and command him to either "sit", "down" and "stay", using food tidbits. Have another family member enter the room and quietly sit down with the cat on his or her lap. The cat should be offered some special tidbits. At first the cat and dog should be on opposite sides of the room. Repeat this step several times until both the cat and dog are tolerating each other without fear, aggression or other uncontrollable behavior. Next, move the animals a little closer together, with the dog still on a leash and the cat gently held in a lap. If the cat does not like to be held, you can use a wire crate or carrier instead. If the dog gets up from its "stay" position it should be firmly repositioned, and praised and rewarded for obeying the "stay" command. If the cat becomes frightened, increase the distance between the animals and progress more slowly. Eventually the animals should be brought close enough together to allow them to investigate each other. Although your dog must be taught that chasing or being rough with the cat is unacceptable behavior, you dog must also be taught how to behave appropriately, and be rewarded for doing so. If you dog is always punished when the cat is around, and never has "good things" happen in the cat's presence, your dog may redirect aggression toward the cat. You may want to keep your dog on a leash and with you when the cat is free in the house during the introduction process. Be sure that your cat has an escape route, and a place to hide. Keep the dog and cat separated when you aren't home until you are certain they will both be safe. For more info: www.hsus.org/ace/13920 www.fourpaws.org/pages/adopting_pages/introducing_cats.html www.bestfriends.org/theanimals/pdfs/cats/introducingcats.pdf Information to consider before choosing to adopt a single kitten Kittens are particularly needy of animal companionship, so if you don’t have any existing pets in your home, please know that San Antonio Pets Alive offers a discount for kittens/cats adopted in pairs. We do allow kittens to be adopted alone, but hope that you will consider this valuable information to ensure a long healthy and happy life with you and your new pet(s): Kittens are active at night. Kittens may awaken you with jumping, pouncing and other hunting behavior. However, two kittens will be more likely to occupy each other by finding interesting shadows to chase and games to play until they finally tire and fall asleep, too. It's normal and appropriate for kittens to "play bite" and wrestle with each other. Without a litter mate or other kitten to play with, a kitten will bite and wrestle with you, which is unacceptable. Even if you allow this behavior from your kitten when it's small, once the kitten matures, your adult cat will have learned these bad habits. If your kitten grows up with another cat or kitten, this negative behavior is minimized. Even if you are fortunate enough to be home during the day, the attention a single kitten demands may occupy all your waking hours. A pair of kittens will also want to interact with you, but they can occupy each other while you are carrying on daily activities. Not to mention they will teach each other important grooming lessons. Kittens want and need interaction with other cats or kittens for healthy social development. A kitten learns from its mother and littermates. Separating a kitten from its mother is often necessary for adoption. But taking a kitten away from all other cat friends can delay his development emotionally, socially and physically. Kittens who remain with a littermate or other cat companion are healthier, happier and better socialized. Solving Litter Box Problems One of the more frequent problems that cat owners face at one time or another is that of a cat refusing to use the litter box, even after using it for years in the past. This behavior may nearly always be corrected with proper attention to the cat’s health and environment. The first thing to do is to rule out a physical problem by bringing your cat to a veterinarian for a physical examination. Common medical causes for inappropriate elimination is a urinary tract infection or crystals in the urine, either of which can make urination very painful. Cats often associate this pain with the litter box and begin to avoid it. Left untreated, a urinary tract infection or blockage from crystals can cause permanent damage or be fatal, so do not delay in seeking medical attention. Once you’ve ruled out medical issues, you’ll need to turn your attention to the cat’s environment. Cats may stop using the litter box because of a radical change in their surroundings, such as the introduction of a new pet, moving homes, rearranging furnishings, remodeling, or even a new baby. In the best of all possible worlds, you will plan ahead and ease the transition. For instance, if you move, introduce your cat to the new home the same way you would bring an entirely new animal in – start in a confined, isolated space and gradually let the cat explore his or her new surroundings. Or, if you remodel your house, keep the cat isolated from the area and only when it is complete should you slowly re-­‐
introduce him or her. Cats may also stop using the litter box because they are dissatisfied with the type of box or type of litter you use. A change in the box or litter can cause them to stop using it; try and stay consistent for the life of the cat. Some cats even like to have two boxes – one for each function (many cat behaviorists agree that the number of boxes should be equal to the number of cats in the home, plus one!). Some like covered boxes, others like open ones. Sometimes it can be a matter of the box’s location. Some don’t like litter box liners or scented litter. In short, you will need to be prepared to experiment and slowly rule things out. Any time your cat thinks outside the box, clean the soiled area promptly and thoroughly (as otherwise the cat may be continue using the area as a de facto bathroom) and use positive reinforcement to re-­‐introduce your cat to the litter box. You may also want to isolate the cat in a large cage or a confined area such as a bathroom in order to re-­‐acquaint him or her with using the litter box. Do not yell at or strike your cat if he or she does not use the litter box. Litter box problems are almost always temporary and reversible, but a cat can develop litter box aversion if it associates elimination with punishment. While you aren’t expected to pop a bottle of champagne or break out in song if your cat pees on your sofa, it will only make matters worse if you punish the cat. Animals don’t understand punishment after the fact, even if it’s only seconds later. If you are lucky enough to catch her in the act, interrupt by making a startling noise but be careful not to scare her. Immediately take her to where the litter box is located and set her on the floor. If she wanders over to the litter box, wait and praise her after she eliminates in the box. If she takes off in another direction, she may want privacy, so watch from afar until she goes back to the litter box and eliminates, then praise her when she does. If she doesn’t go to it, consider isolating her in the bathroom with the litter box for a time. Steps to Avoid Litter Box Aversion Your cat may have decided that the litter box is an unpleasant place to eliminate if the box is not clean enough for her, if she has been startled by a noise while using the box, if she has been “ambushed” while in the box either by another cat, a child, a dog, or by you, or if she associates elimination with unpleasantness. Keep the litter box extremely clean. Scoop at least once a day and change the litter completely every week (for non-­‐clumping litter) or every two weeks (for clumping litter). You may need to change the litter more or less frequently depending on the size of the box and the number of cats in the house. Cats have an extremely sensitive sense of smell so if you can smell the box, from the cat’s perspective it must really reek. You should have at least one litter box per cat in the household Add a new box in a different location than the old one and use a different type of litter in the new box, a different size box, etc. Because your cat has decided that her old litter box is unpleasant, you’ll want to make the new one different enough that she doesn’t simply apply the old, negative associations to the new box. Make sure that the litter box isn’t near an appliance that makes noise or otherwise in a noisy area. Cats, like people, like their privacy! If ambushing is a problem, try to create more than one exit from the litter box, so that if the “ambusher” is waiting by one area, your cat always has an escape route. Cats like LARGE litter boxes – at least 1 and ½ times longer than the cat is. A box can’t be too large, but they are often too small. Don’t use citrus scented litters – research has shown that cats hate the small of citrus. If you have a citrus “plug in” or candles near the litter box remove them. Surface Preferences All animals develop preferences for a particular surface on which they like to eliminate. These preferences may be established early in life, but they may also change for reasons that we don’t always understand. Your cat may have a surface preference if she consistently eliminates on a particular texture, such as a soft-­‐textured surface (carpet, bedding or clothing) or a slick-­‐textured surface (such as tile, bathtubs or sinks). If your cat is eliminating on soft surfaces, try using a high quality, scoop-­‐able litter, and put a soft rug under the litter box. If your cat is eliminating on slick, smooth surfaces, try putting just a very thin layer of litter at one end of the box, leaving the other end bare, and put the box on a hard floor. If your cat has a history of being outdoors, add some soil or sod to the litter box. You can try making the area where she has been eliminating aversive to her by covering it with an upside-­‐down carpet runner or aluminum foil, or by placing citrus-­‐scented cotton balls over the area. If your cat is having litter box problems, don’t worry – you are not alone! The Internet is rife with information and suggestions on what to do. Here are a few recommended web sites: www.hsus.org/pets/pet_care/our_pets_for_life_program/cat_behavior_tip_sheets/solving_litter_box_problems.html www.sspca.org/Cats_LitterboxProblems.html Thank you for adopting a cat from San Antonio Pets Alive! Please feel free to contact us at [email protected] with questions or comments. Physical Address: Animal Care Services (Building 1) 4710 Highway 151 San Antonio, Texas 78227 Mailing Address: PO Box 830006 San Antonio, Texas 78283