UL TEXTILE SERVICES For All Your Safety and Quality Needs UL Textile Services Faced with an increasingly complex regulatory environment, textile manufacturers must produce safe and high quality products capable of meeting brand standards and consumer demands. UL is dedicated to helping clients manage supply chain risk and comply with global regulatory requirements to help ensure products meet quality, safety and social standards. From raw materials procurement to product shelf, UL provides quality assurance services at every stage of the textile supply chain to help you identify and properly understand potential risk. UL partners with clients throughout the production cycle to provide pre-production yarn analysis, testing to international, federal and regional regulations, factory audits and quality inspections to help drive product quality, increase speed to market, and enhance customer satisfaction. Recommended Testing Guide for Major Apparel Types Clients leverage UL’s industry knowledge and world market expertise to gain a competitive edge. We customize our textile and apparel quality assurance solutions to meet specific business needs and regulatory requirements, enabling our customers to mitigate risk and avoid costly recalls. Product Categories Include: • • • • • • • • • • • • Shirt/Blouse Sport Shirt/T-Shirt Trousers Dress/Skirt Jacket/Blazer/Rainwear Skiwear/Anorak/Knitwear Underwear/Lingerie/Nightwear Sweatshirt/Knitwear Swimwear Lining Accessories Leather Products From colorfastness, dimensional stability, and durability, to structural performance testing, UL’s team of textile experts can provide guidance on what products need to be tested, which regulatory tests apply to your target market, and if testing is needed for components or finished products. Our Recommended Testing Guide for Major Apparel Types can help you develop production test plans, save raw materials and control test costs. 2 UL Textile Services Sport Shirt, T-Shirt Trousers Dress, Skirt Jacket, Blazer, Rainwear Skiwear, Anorak, Knitwear Underwear, Lingerie, Nightwear Sweatshirt, Knitwear Swimwear Lining Accessories Leather Products Fiber Labeling Fiber Analysis ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ Flammability Flammability Test (1) ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ Dimensional Stability - Washing or Dry Cleaning (2) ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ Colorfastness - Washing or Dry Cleaning (2) ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ - Chlorine Bleach ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ - Non-chlorine Bleach ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ Appearance after - Washing or Dry Cleaning (2) ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ☐ Apparel/Test Item Shirt, Blouse Recommended Testing Guide for Major Apparel Types Mandatory Testing Care Labeling Dimensional Appearance - Professional Leather Dry Clean Quality & Performance Testing Rubbing (Crocking) ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ Light - 10 exp - 20 hour exp Colorfastness Testing ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ☐ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ☐ Chlorinated Water ✓ Sea Water ✓ ✓ Water Spotting Other Tests Tensile Strength (3) ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ Tear Strength (3) ☐ ☐ ☐ ☐ ☐ Seam Properties (3) ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ Burst Strength (4) ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ Seam Burst Strength (4) ✓ ✓ Pilling Resistance (5) ☐ ☐ Abrasion Resistance (6) ☐ ✓ ✓ ☐ ☐ ☐ ☐ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ☐ ✓ Spray Test Durable Press Rating (7) ✓ ✓ Water Strength Tests ✓ ✓ - 40 hour exp Perspiration ✓ ☐ Key: ✓ Essential test ☐ Optional test to be required on basis of fabric materials and apparel style Notes: (1) Flammability : - USA / Canada: Children’s sleepwear and other wearing apparel - U.K. / The Netherlands: Nightwear only - Australia: Children’s nightclothes - Sweden: All wearing apparel (2) Either washing or dry clean procedure is performed (3) Woven articles only (4) Knitted articles only (5) Hairy, brushed or cellulosic blended articles (6) Essential test for corduroy and Optional test for other (7) Permanent press finished articles only 3 UL Textile Services Your Reasonable Testing Program Designed by UL, the commercial requirements help manufacturers, importers and retailers understand the most frequently requested tests when developing their own reasonable testing programs. We provide specifics on the different types of textiles to assist our clients in evaluating product performance when buyer requirements are not available. Commercial Requirements for Apparel Fabric/Finished Garments/Related Textile Products Properties Product Requirement Limit Other than USA USA Appearance Colorfastness to washing All min. c.c. 4 / c.s. 3 same Colorfastness to washing dry cleaning All min. c.c. 4 / c.s. 4 same Denim / indigo dyed / pigment print / fade out effect design / velvet / corduroy / plush / terry fabric / heavy shade (1) min. dry s 3 / wet s 2 same Others min. dry s 4 / wet s 3 same Underwear / lining / all silk items min. b.w.s.g 3 10 f.u. g. s. 4 Outerwear min. b.w.s.g. 4 20 f.u. g. s. 4 Colorfastness to washing rubbing Colorfastness to light Swimwear min. b.w.s.g. 5 40 f.u. g. s. 4 Colorfastness to perspiration All min. c.c. 4 / c.s. 3 same Colorfastness to water All min. c.c. 4 / c.s. 3 same Colorfastness to chlorine bleach All min. c.c. 4 same Colorfastness to nonchlorine bleach All min. c.c. 4 same Colorfastness to chlorinated water Swimwear / beachwear min. c.c. 4 same Colorfastness to seawater Swimwear / beachwear / marine uniform / water sports wear min. c.c.4 / c.s. 3 same Colorfastness to hot pressing All min. c.c. 4 / c.s. 4 same Colorfastness to actual laundering All min. c.c. 4 / c.s. 3 same Colorfastness to ozone All min. c.c. 4 same Colorfastness to burnt gas fumes All min. c.c. 4 same Phenolic yellowing All min. c.s. 4 same All Colorfastness tests Textile products with contrast color portions min. cross staining 4-5 same Smoothness after washing Woven min. 3.5 same Seam puckering after washing Woven min. 3.5 same Color shading by visual assessment Fabric within a roll or between rolls min. 4-5 same Dimensional stability to machine / hand washing Woven range w.p. & w.f. - 4% / + 3% same Knitted range w.l. & cou. ± 6% same Dimensional stability to dry cleaning Woven range w.p. & w.f. ± 2.5% same Knitted range w.l. & cou. ± 3% same Distortion 4 UL Textile Services Commercial Requirements for Apparel Fabric/Finished Garments/Related Textile Products Cont. Properties Product Requirement Limit Other than USA USA Dimensional stability to free steam Woven / knitted range w.p. & w.f. ± 3% same Spirality after washing or dry cleaning All max. 1) displacement 5% of side seam length 2) displacement 3 cm same Skew before / after washing or dry cleaning Woven fabric (full width) max. range 1) 5% at original, or 2) change after wash ±3% same Blouse min. 12 kgf 25 lbf Shirt / dress / skirt/ pajamas / lining min. 15 kgf 30 lbf Jacket / coat min. 17 kgf 35 lbf Dungarees / trousers / shorts / jeans / pocket min. 23 kgf 50 lbf Blouse / shirt / dress / skirt / pajamas / lining min. 15 kgf n.a. Jacket / coat min. 20 kgf n.a. Dungarees / trousers / shorts / jeans / pocket min. 25 kgf n.a. Leather for garment min. 50N/cm 28.5 lbs/in Blouse min. 700 gf Pajamas / lining min. 800 gf 1.5 lbf Shirt / dress / skirt / jacket / coat min. 1000 gf 1.8 lbf Dungarees / trousers / shorts / jeans min. 1200 gf 2.2 lbf Leather for garment min. 20N 2.6 lbf Woven : blouse / shirt / dress / skirt min. 7 kgf 4.5 lbf Woven : pajamas / lining min. 8 kgf 15 lbf Woven : jacket / coat / pocket min. 10 kgf 18 lbf Woven : dungarees / trousers / shorts / jeans min. 12 kgf 22 lbf Seam slippage when 8 kgf applied Woven : blouse / shirt / dress / skirt / pajamas / lining max. 6 mm 25 lbf Seam slippage when 12 kgf applied Woven : jacket / coat / pocket max. 6 mm same Seam slippage when 16 kgf applied Woven : dungarees / trousers / shorts / jeans max. 6 mm same 10 kgf 22 lbf Durability Tensile strength (1 inch grab method) Tensile strength (50 mm raveled strip method) Tensile strength (regardless of test method) Tearing strength (Elmendorf method) Tearing strength (single/ trouser tear) Seam slippage / yarn slippage - at 6 mm opening (other than USA) - at 1/4 in opening (USA) Woven / Leather: blouse / shirt / dress / skirt Seam strength Bursting strength Woven : pajamas / lining min. 12 kgf 25 lbf Woven / Leather: jacket / coat / pocket min. 15 kgf 30 lbf Woven / Leather: dungarees / trousers / shorts / jeans min. 17 kgf 37 lbf Knitted fabric other than animal fibers min. 2.8 kgf / cm² 40 lbf/in2 Knitted animal fiber fabric min. 2.3 kgf / cm² 35 lbf/in2 5 UL Textile Services Commercial Requirements for Apparel Fabric/Finished Garments/Related Textile Products Cont. Properties Product Requirement Limit Other than USA USA Durability Cont. Seam between knitted fabric other than animal fiber min. 2.5 kgf / cm² 37 lbf/in2 Seam between knitted animal fiber fabric min. 2.0 kgf / cm² 30 lbf/in2 Along the seam for knitted fabric and knitted garment min. 3.0 kgf or 50% elongation 7 lbf or 50% elongation Pilling Woven and knitted fabric min. 3-4 3.5 Snagging Fabric made from 100% filament yarn min. 3-4 Same Blouse / shirt / dress / skirt / pajamas / lining min. 10,000 rubs same Jacket / coat min. 20,000 rubs same Dungarees / trousers / shorts / jeans min. 30,000 rubs same - Shade change at 5000 rubs Woven fabric without pile min. 3 same - Shade change at 3000 rubs Flannel / corduroy / terry / velvet / flock min. 3-4 3.5 Water repellent (spray test) before washing Water repellent fabric min. 4 90 Water repellent (spray test) after washing Water repellent fabric min. 3 70 Water resistance (rain test) Water repellent coat or rainwear max. 1 g in 2 min at 600 mm water head same Down proof fabric max. 5cm3/cm2/s same Wind proof fabric max. 0.5cm3/cm2/s same Water vapor permeability (breathability) For raincoat / skiwear range 5000 - 7000 g/m2/24 hours same Anti-static property Base on fabric material type much below polyester < 108Ω acrylic < 108.7 Ω nylon < 109 Ω same Pile retention test (ASTM D4685) Pile fabric min. 3.5 same Crease recovery angle Woven (cellulosics & its blends) min. 1200 same All kinds of textile products upf rating 15, 20 good 25, 30, 35 very good 40, 45, 50, 50+ excellent — All (single fiber) range no tolerance same All (fiber blend) range ± 3% of nominal same Fabric range ± 5% of nominal same Seam bursting strength Seam stretchability Abrasion resistance (martindale method) - at two ends breaks Air permeability UV protection factor Construction Fiber composition of textile fabric Thread per unit length (thread density) 6 Mass per unit area Fabric range ± 5% of nominal same Fabric width Fabric range ± 5% of nominal same UL Textile Services Commercial Requirements for Apparel Fabric/Finished Garments/Related Textile Products Cont. Properties Product Requirement Limit Other than USA USA Linear density of yarn (yarn count) Yarn range ± 5% of nominal same Turn per unit length (twist) Yarn range ± 5% of nominal same Chemical pH value All range follow eco requirement same Oxygen number Feather and down max. 10 units same Turbidity Feather and down min. 300 mm same Notes: (1) heavy shade - 1/1 or 2/1 standard depth including color black and navy *The figures provided are minimum requirements only, which may not be suitable for a specific order, market or customer. Please consult your buyer in advance when using the information in the chart. Abbreviations: c.c. - color change by gray scale c.s. - color staining by gray scale cou. - course direction of knitted cross s - cross staining on contrast portion dry s. - dry staining f. u. - fading unit b.w.s.g. - blue wool standard grade w.p. - warp direction of woven fabric g. - grade/g. s. - gray scale w.f. - weft direction of woven fabric min. - minimum/max. - maximum w.l. - wales direction of knitted fabric n.a. - not applicable same - same as the requirement of left column wet s. - wet staining upf = ultra violet protection factor Recommended Chemical Testing Guide for Ecological Textiles Testing Today’s consumer is increasingly concerned about green, non-toxic, and environmentally friendly consumer goods, that are also of high-quality. These needs are driving manufacturers to improve product standards to meet this growing market demand. UL has advanced equipment and an expert team of textile chemical engineers to help customers monitor and regulate hazardous chemicals in their products and facilitate global market access. Chemical Matrix for Softline Testing in the European, Japanese & Chinese Markets Chemical Regulations/requirement Test Method Suggested materials to be tested Azodyes European REACH Regulation (EC) No. 1907/2006 Annex XVII, The GB 18401 or GB 20400 Textile: EN 14362-1 , GB/T 17592; Leather: ISO 17234-1; GB/T19942; 4 aminoazobenzene: EN 14362-3; GB/ T23344; EN ISO 17234-2 Textile, synthetic textiles, leathers, imitation leathers, etc. Total Cadmium European REACH Regulation (EC) No. 1907/2006 Annex XVII Plastic: EN 1122, Metal: ICP-MS/ICP-OES, Metal Surface Coating: microwave digestion ICP-MS/OES Coated textiles, coated leathers, metal in jewelry items, plastic accessories, coatings/prints Nickel Release European REACH Regulation (EC) No. 1907/2006 Annex XVII EN 1811 + EN 12472 Metal with prolonged skin contact Organotin Compounds European REACH Regulation (EC) No. 1907/2006 Annex XVII; Japan Law for the control of household products CEN ISO/TS 16179 or Solvent extraction followed by GCMS All material except metal, glass, and ceramic Phthalates European REACH Regulation (EC) No. 1907/2006 Annex XVII; Danish Statutory order 786 and order 1113) EN 15777 or Solvent extraction followed by GCMS Coated textiles/leathers, plastic accessories, printings/ coatings Pentalchlorophenol, Tetrachlorophenol (PCP and sum of TeCP) German Commodities Law; Swiss ordinance on reduction of chemical risks § 64 LFGB B 82.02-8, Leather: ISO 17070 with KOH extractions All natural materials and synthetic textiles 7 UL Textile Services Chemical Matrix for Softline Testing in the European, Japanese & Chinese Markets Cont. Chemical 8 Regulations/Requirement Test Method Suggested materials to be tested Chromium Vi German Ordinance On Commodities ISO 17075, §64 LFGB B 82.02-11 Leather, coated leather Allergenic & Carcinogenic Disperse Dyes BfR Recommendation DIN 54231, §64 LFGB B 82.02-10 Synthetic textiles Flame Retardants European Reach Regulation (EC) No. 1907/2006 Annex XVII; Japan Law for the Control of Household Products Solvent extraction followed by GCMS or LCMS Textile, leather, plastics Formaldehyde Japan Law 112;GB18401; GB20400 (for leather and fur); Ecological Textile Requirement Textile: EN ISO 14184-1, Leather: EN ISO 17226, Japan Law 11; GB/T2912.1; GB/T19941 Textiles, leather Alkyl Phenolethoxylates (APEO) (Nonylphenol Ethoxylates + Octylphenol Ethoxylates NPEO, OPEO) European Reach Regulation (EC) No. 1907/2006 Annex XVII and Ecological Textile Requirement Solvent extraction followed by LCMS Textile, synthetic textiles, leathers, imitation leather Dimethyl Fumarate European Reach Regulation (EC) No. 1907/2006 Annex XVII CEN ISO/TS 18186 or Solvent extraction followed by GCMS Dessicants, silica gel sacchets, leathers Chlorinated Organic Solvents European Reach Regulation (EC) No. 1907/2006 Annex XVII; Japan Law for the Control of Household Products; BfF Recommendation Solvent extraction followed by GCMS or GCMS headspace All textiles Chlorinated Organic Carriers German Ordinance on Commodities DIN 54232 Synthetic textiles Ph Gb18401; Voluntary Ecological Textile Requirement GB/T 7573; ISO 3071 or ISO 4045 Textiles, leather Total Lead Danish Statutory Order No. 1012 of November 13, 2000 Microwave digestion ICPMS/OES All kinds of products in Danish market Perfluorooctane Sulfonate PFOS Pop Commission Regulation (EU) No. 757/2010 Amending Regulation (EC) No. 850/2004 CEN/TS 15968 Solvent extraction followed by LCMS Mainly for water resistant/anti-stain treated textile/leather Perfluorooctanic Acid, Its Salts And Esters PFOA Norwegian Product Regulation CEN/TS 15968 Solvent extraction followed by LCMS Mainly for water resistant/anti-stain treated textile/leather Short Chain Chlorinated Paraffin (SCCP) POP Commission Regulation (EU) No. 519/2012 Of 19 June 2012 Amending Regulation (EC) No. 850/2004 Solvent extraction followed by GC Coated leathers, PU, coated textiles Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons (PAHS) European REACH Regulation (EC) No. 1907/2006 Annex XVII ZEK 01.4-08 or solvent extraction followed by GCMS Plastic and rubber Extractable Heavy Metal Voluntary Ecological Textile Requirement ISO 105-E04 AAS, ICP-MS/OES Textile, leather, metal accessories, plastic accessories UL Textile Services How to Get Started Sample Size Requirement – Textile Physical Testing Test A. Colorfastness B. Physical - Dimensional stability - Appearance retention (i)Garment (ii) Knitted fabric (spirality) - Flammability (16 CFR Part 1610) - Strength (e.g. tensile, tear, seam slippage, bursting) - Yarn count / Fabric construction - Fabric performance (e.g. pilling / abrasion) - Water resistance / repellent (e.g. rain test, spray test, hydrostatic pressure) C. Composition & Analytical Tests - Fiber composition (i) Fabric analysis (ii) Garment analysis - Chemical tests (e.g. Formaldehyde content / mercerization in cotton / pH value / dyestuff identification) Sample Size 20” x 20” per test 1 yard x full width for complete analysis Woven: 1 yard x full width, Knit: 1 yard x full width 2 pieces, (1 garment for testing plus second garment for control) Double layers with two submitted side seams, Length: 24” Width: 20” 24” x full width 1 yard x full width per test 1 yard x full width per test 1 yard x full width per test 1 yard x full width per test 24” x 24” Whole garment without damage 24” x 24” D. Care Label Recommendation -Fabric -Garment 2 yards x full width 2 pieces plus accessories if any E. Ecology Textile Package -Fabric -Garment 1.5 yards x full width 2 pieces plus accessories if any Notes: • If dimensional stability and appearance retention tests are requested at the same time, only two pieces of garment are required • Some care labeling tests will be repeated if the product cannot pass. To avoid delay, additional samples must be submitted for testing and unused samples will be returned to the customer • For washing and dry cleaning care instructions the quantity of sample submitted must be doubled 9 UL Textile Services Sample Size Requirement – Chemical Testing Test Type Sample Size Fastest Service Available Azodyes 2 x A4 size or equivalent to 15g Shuttle Total Cadmium 1 x A4 size or equivalent to 5g Immediate Carcinogenic & Allergenic Dye 1 x A4 size or equivalent to 10g Shuttle PCP / TeCP / TriCP 2 x A4 size or equivalent to 20g Regular* OPP 2 x A4 size or equivalent to 20g Regular* Pesticides 2 x A4 size or equivalent to 20g Regular* PCB 2 x A4 size or equivalent to 20g Regular* Organic Carrier 2 x A4 size or equivalent to 20g Regular* SCCP 2 x A4 size or equivalent to 20g Regular* PFOS 3 x A4 size Regular* PFOA 3 x A4 size Regular* APEO/NPEO 1 x A4 size or equivalent to 10g Regular* Organotin Compound 2 x A4 size or equivalent to 20g Regular Heavy Metals 2 x A4 size or equivalent to 15g Express Chromium (VI) 2 x A4 size or equivalent to 20g Shuttle Nickel Release EN1811+EN12472 3 sets 11 Working Days EN71-3 3 sets Shuttle Phthalates 2 x A4 size or equivalent to 5g Express Total Lead 2 x A4 size or equivalent to 5g Shuttle Antibacterial A4 size (treated & untreated fabric) 12 Working Days REACH SVHC 3 pieces plus accessories if any 10 Working Days Notes: • 5-7 working days is required for these chemical tests • Actual sample size may vary subject to different products and technical issues • To avoid delay, provide at least six samples for each item that includes buttons, zippers or any other components as required Rely on UL for the Safety and Quality of Your Products To help eliminate many of the uncertainties associated with global sourcing, UL’s comprehensive inspection system provides a vital check on consumer product quality form top of production through loading. From factory to shelf, we help ensure products and packaging meets your specification for quality and safety. With experienced technical staff on five continents, UL can design and implement a global inspection program to meet your specific quality assurance needs. • Top of Production (TOP) Inspections / Initial Production Inspections (IPI) are performed on raw materials and initial samples respectively, in conjunction with product evaluations against pre-production pieces to help ensure compliance with regulatory standards and client specifications • During-Production (DUPRO) Inspections provide a means of evaluating quality after production has started, but before the majority of the order is completed. The purpose of the inspection is to identify and address any issues as early as possible in the manufacturing process without jeopardizing the shipping schedule • Final Random Inspections (FRI)/Pre-shipment (PSI) Inspections verify product quality, packaging, product labeling, and carton markings before the product leaves the factory to help ensure the items are fit for their intended purpose and are correctly packed to minimize potential damage during shipment 10 UL Textile Services • Loading Inspections help ensure that the product, shipment quantity, packing requirements and carton markings are accurate during the loading process at the factory, warehouse, or port • Production Monitoring places an inspector on-site at the factory to monitor the manufacturing process from incoming raw materials to finished product, and helps ensure materials, quality, and production schedules meet your anticipated timelines and specifications Factory Audits UL factory audits provide customized product inspection support, based on customers’ predefined parameters or customer-accepted specifications. These audits provide retailers and buyers confidence in the quality of the suppliers that they work with as well as the reliability of the products that are sourced from these suppliers. Quality concerns can be identified and controlled at the source. Our experts assess a factory’s competence to deliver consistent quality over the long term. Key processes addressed include: • • • • • Quality management system Good manufacturing practice Product control Process control Personnel Why Choose UL UL works with a diverse array of stakeholders every day to make the world safer and provide confidence. We optimize the supply chain for manufacturers and provide them a broad range of services that support every stage of the product life cycle. UL works with retailers on inspections and audits. We consult with governments on initiatives that facilitate global trade and collaborate with industry on standards that create level playing fields. For more details on how UL can help ensure the safety and quality of your textiles and apparel please contact [email protected] or visit ul.com. 11 Contact us at: Hong Kong location: Shanghai location: Shenzhen location: UL VS Hong Kong Ltd. Tel: +(852) 2423 3092 Fax: +(852) 2480 5436 E-mail: [email protected] UL VS Shanghai Ltd Tel: +86 (21) 2422 8200 Fax: +86 (21) 6855 6812 E-mail: [email protected] UL VS Shanghai Ltd. Tel: +86 (755) 2601 8600 Fax: +86 (755) 2601 8626 E-mail: [email protected] UL and the UL logo are trademarks of UL LLC © 2014.
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