● JAPANESE ALPINE NEWS 2013
TAMOTSU
TATSUO
(TOM)
(TIM)NAKAMURA
INOUE
The
First
Ascentofof
Lopchin
Feng (KG-2)
6,805m
Rock
Temples
Tibetan
Buddhists
Homelands
Autumn 2009
Expedition
to the Kangri
Garpo
East Mountains,
Daogou–Chibu
Group
of Mt. Siguniang
Massif,
Qonglai
Mountains,Tibet
Sichuan
First of all, I express my sincere thanks to Kenzo Okawa, Dylan Johnson, Yao Liu, Naoki Ohuchi,
Hiroo Yonezawa and Shihoko Nomura for their kindnesses and generosities to have furnished me
with their records, knowledges and invaluable pictures.
It was in summer of 1998 that I was overwhelmingly touched by the grandeur of rock peaks on the
watershed sharing the Changping Valley and Shuangqiao Valley of the Mt. Siguniang National
Reserve, Qonglai Mountains. The first glimpse of a panorama of towering rocky peaks seen to the
west from a high pass 4,644 m dividing the Changping Valley and Bipeng Valley deeply touched and
impressed me. These peaks are of Daogou–Chubu group.
In recent years many climbers have been rushing to the mountain area for attempting challenging
rock peaks. To my best knowledge a climbing chronicle has been followed and renewed by the
American Alpine Journal. This article does not deal with the climbing chronicle.
Part I: Peaks identification of the core part on the watershed sharing Changping Gou and
Shangqiang Gou is shown on panorama pictures.
Parr II: Notable first ascents of the Daogou-Chibu group are introduced using route line pictures.
Records 2010 and 2012 of a Japanese party of Y. Yonezawa are included.
Part III: A record 2012 of a distinguished Chinese climber, Yao Liu Sichuan University.
Map-1 Climbing route to Lopchin Feng
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Part I (1)
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Part I (2)
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Part I (3)
Photo: Shihoko Nomura
Happy 2013 Photo: Kenzo Okaue
Danba Beauty Photo: Kenzo Okaue
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Part II (1)
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Part II (2)
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Part II (3)
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Part III (1)
Dear Tom Nakamura,
I received your parcel today. Thank you for the Japanese Alpine News. There are so good articles. I
can tell how much work you did for it.
I read the article about the Niuxin Shan climbing. It reminds me that two local Tibetan guides Tashi
and Yangxinyong and I made a new route on the south face of Niuxin Shan in Shuangqiao valley just
few days after a Japanese team (September 15, 2010: Japanese Alpine News vol. 12, 2011). It was
600 meters, 14 pitches in two days climbing. We had to bivy for one night.
And also last September (2012), Tashi and · I make the first ascent on an unnamed peak in Xiaogou
valley which is in the Shuangqiaogou. The climbing route is 360 meters, we climbed in 9 pitches and
we only slept in our BD double fly bivy (we didn't bring the portalege because it was too heavy) since
we met a big heavy storm.
About Se'erdenpu, my friend and · I started to bolt a 1,000 meters vertical route on the southeast face.
I think we are going to finish it in this fall (2013).
I think I will write to you very often because I want to let you know what happen on the mountain
range in Sichuan or another places, so that they might be helpful for the Japanese Alpine news.
Please tell me if you need any help in here. I look forward to seeing you in Chengdu this year
Sincerely,
Daliu (Yao Liu) January 10, 2013
Niuxin Shan south face (1)
Niuxin Shan south face (2)
Niuxin Shan south face (3)
Yao Liu mode the first ascent of Yangmolong 6,060 m with American Climbers in 2011.
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Part III (2)
Niuxin Shan south face (4)
Xia Gou unnamed peak (1)
Niuxin Shan south face (5)
Xia Gou unnamed peak (2)
Xia Gou unnamed peak (3)
Se erdengpu 5,592 m SE face (right), Potala Shan 5,428 m (left) S face
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Danba Beauty Photo: Kenzo Okaue