- Baseball Bat Guide *** Sizing Charts ***
Use the charts below as a general guideline for determining BAT LENGTH.
Use the charts below as a general guideline for determining BAT WEIGHT.
Little League (8-10 yrs)
Player Height
Bat Weight
48-50"
16-17 oz.
51-54"
17-18 oz.
55-59"
18-19 oz.
60+"
19-20 oz.
Youth League (11-12 yrs)
Player Weight
Bat Weight
70-80 lbs.
18-19 oz.
81-100 lbs.
19-20 oz.
101-120 lbs.
20-21 oz.
121-140 lbs.
21-22 oz.
141+ lbs.
22-23 oz.
High School & College
Player Height
Bat Weight
66-68"
27-28 oz.
69-72"
28-29 oz.
73-76"
29-30 oz.
77+"
30-31 oz.
*** Baseball Bat Types ***
•
Tee-Ball Bats
Tee-Ball bats are for ages approx 5 thru 7. They are generally used
in tee-ball and coach pitch leagues. The bat barrel is 2 1/4 inch in
diameter. Bat lengths range from 25 inch to 27 inch. Bat weight is
measured in weight drop, which varies between brands and models.
Heavier bats are around minus 7 weight drop, lighter bats are
around minus 13.
•
Little League Bats
Little League bats are for ages approx 7 thru 12. They are used in
leagues including Little League, Babe Ruth, Dixie Youth, PONY,
and AABC. The bat barrel is 2 1/4 inch in diameter. Bat lengths
range from 28 inch to 32 inch. Bat weight is measured in weight
drop, which varies between brands and models. Heavier bats are
around minus 7 weight drop, lighter bats are around minus 13.
•
Senior League Bats
Senior League bats are for ages approx 10 thru 13. They are used in
certain travel and tournament leagues. The bat barrel is available in
2 5/8 inch (high school regulation), and 2 3/4 inch (Big Barrel). Bat
lengths range from 28 inch to 32 inch. Bat weight is measured in
weight drop, which varies between brands and models. Heavier
bats are around minus 5 weight drop, lighter bats are around minus
11.
•
High School / College Bats
High School / College bats are for ages approx 13 and up. They are
used in most High School and College leagues. The bat barrel is 2
5/8 inch in diameter. Bat lengths range from 30 inch to 34 inch. Bat
weight is measured in weight drop, which must be minus 3. Most
leagues require an approved BESR stamp on the bat (Bat Exit Speed
Rating).
*** Composite Baseball Bats ***
•
A word about Composite Baseball Bats
Composite Baseball Bats, such as the Easton Stealth Composite and
Louisville Catalyst, are fairly new to the Baseball scene. They have
been used in softball for many years. Early on, there seems to be
some mixed reviews on the Composite baseball bats. I believe this
is because the baseball world is not fully educated on these bats,
and don't realize how to make a composite bat work for them.
To start off with, composite bats have a much longer break-in
period than aluminum bats, and hitting jugz balls will not do it. If
you plan on breaking in these bats in the cages, you need to use real
baseballs. Another common complaint in some reviews is the poor
durability of these bats. But, what players and coaches must realize
is that they are not just swinging a hunk of metal anymore.
Composite bats should not be used in cold weather; temperatures
less than 70 degrees they can easily break, as many are finding out.
Another common complaint is the cost. Yes, they are expensive,
but if broken in correctly and used correctly, you will get so much
more out of your bat than the aluminum or hybrids of past years.
There are several Pros and Cons (and misconceptions) about
composite bats, but players and coaches need to have the correct
information before making a judgment. After I explained the proper
break-in and use of composites to a few of our high school players,
they were amazed at the difference. At first, the ball will sound like
it came off a wooden bat, which was another complaint in many
reviews, but with proper effort and care you can break them in to
the point where it sounds more like a rifle than wood. Players,
coaches and parents need to know what they are buying. Without
proper knowledge, they are just buying a $300 or $400 Bat, but
with the correct knowledge they could be buying $300 Lightning
Rod. Composite bats give a whole lot more forgiveness for the
imperfect swing, and have the potential to make the average hitter a
clean-up hitter.
Coach C, Franklin Express.
•
Composite Baseball Bat FAQ's
How do I break in a composite bat?
It usually depends on the bat, but commonly you just need a lot
of good BP with the bat. You have to have between 100 to 200 hits
to break it in. Some bats take longer than others. You need to be
hitting goods balls, leather cover solid baseballs. Hitting off a tee
will not break it in very effectively. You need to be hitting live
balls thrown 40mph or better. A machine works good if it is set up
to throw real baseballs. Each time you make good contact you need
to turn the barrel about 1/8 turn so you break in the bat evenly.
What do you recommend for proper care and maintenance of
composite bats?
Let me start out by stating keep your receipt. If there is a
problem with the bat while it is under warranty, you will need the
receipt when you send it to the manufacturer. Here are a few tips
for proper care and maintenance:
1) Never leave any bat, especially a composite bat, in cold weather
for an extended period of time. Cold weather is very bad on
composites. So make sure when you get home you take it with you
into your warm house. Never hit a composite bat in weather below
65 degrees or it will have a greater chance of breaking.
2) Try not to hit off the handle - this is where most breaks occur.
Composite bats have flex to them in the handles, so a good impact
blow off the handle can cause them to break.
3) Only hit leather cover solid baseballs.
4) Avoid having it become a team bat.
Hi, we just got my son an Easton Stealth bat for his birthday. He
was told by a parent that you should use car wax to keep the bat
shinny. What do you recommend?
I recommend just cleaning it with a wet rag. Using any foreign
substance, like car wax, could be considered altering or tampering
with the bat.
You say not to hit a composite bat in cold weather. What about
the heat (90+ degrees)?
Basically, the warmer it is, the bigger your sweet spot becomes.
Keep in mind that in some areas, such as Coastal areas or certain
areas in the Midwest, with the heat there is usually higher humidity.
So, although the bat is warm, the air is heavy. This doesn`t effect
the bat, but can effect the ball and its flight - you may notice a
difference, especially on high flies.
Are half & half composite handle bats also bad in cold weather?
Half and Half typically do have some problems in cold weather
at the handle, however it is not in performance but durability. To be
safe, try to avoid using them in cold weather (below 65 degrees).
I was told at a store today that composite bats were made for use
in cold weather???
It depends what they mean by that. Composite bats do Perform
well in cold weather. Although the performance is very good, the
durability is extremely poor. Most manufactures recommend that
you do not use composite bats in temperatures less then 70 degrees.
Could I ever get a bat that after trying to break it in for months,
just never performs?
Sure you can. They make bats by the thousands, and you can
receive a bat that may have a flaw in it that is not visible to you. If
you get a bat that you have worked with and does not meet your
expectations, call the manufacturer and ask if they will replace it.
Most manufacturers stand behind the bats they make.
Can these instructions on breaking in a composite Baseball bat
be used for Softball bats also?
Yes, same way only using softballs.
Is a Composite bat better than Aluminum?
It is basically a matter of opinion and manufacturer. It is my
opinion that in most cases, a full composite bat is better than
aluminum and is the best technology available today. There are
pros and cons to each bat however. Which is better for you depends
on what you are looking for in a bat, such as durability, sweetspot,
break-in time, warranty, flex, and other factors.
Will a Composite bat hit the ball farther than an Aluminum bat?
Given that contact is made on the barrel of the bat, not on the
handle, my research and testing suggest that the composite bat does
have more pop. However, this is only after the composite bat has
been broken-in. Straight out of the wrapper, the aluminum bat will
be equally as effective, but after break-in period, the composite will
surpass it.
What is Half & Half technology?
Half & Half technology, in most instances, is where the handle
is composite and the barrel is aluminum, alloy, or a hybrid material.
These bats incorporate "two piece" technology. With the handle
being composite, it allows for flex or whipping action. With the
barrel being aluminum, alloy, or hybrid material, it gives the bat
more durability. The main advantages of this technology are the
durability of the barrel and the whipping action. These are typically
very good bats and cost less than full composites, however, they
will usually not have the pop of a full composite.
What is Hybrid technology?
Basically, it is the process of combining two different materials
to create the bat, such as combining SC900 aluminum with carbon,
or combining different alloys of steels and aluminums.
How do composite bats compare to double wall bats such as the
DeMarini F3? Is there a noticeable difference in "pop" or is it just
preference? I realize the double wall bats have less weight drop
which takes away bat speed but with all things being equal such as
bat speed is one better than the other?
Double walls were designed to get a better trampoline effect at
contact. Is there a noticeable difference? I think it would depend on
the individuals swing. The double walls have a smaller sweet spot
so the swing needs to be more precise, where the single wall
composites allow for some imperfection in the swing. I personally
think age and power of the player is critical in bat choice. I believe
younger players should be swinging lighter balanced bats, and as
their swing gets consistent then they can start working with EndLoads, less weight drop, and different wall designs.
If bats are regulated by BPF what advantage do the alloys
make? I understand stronger alloy allows for thinner walls therefore
a lighter bat, but why not just find a light bat at a good length and
buy the cheapest? Or do stronger alloys make a difference as far as
performance?
Stronger alloy bats and composite bats usually have better
performance for the imperfect swing. Composites allow for
mistakes to happen during the swing and still give you a little more
pop. A lot of it has to with how the composite material or alloy's
are formed to the bat shell; some bat manufacturers braid, weave,
string, or float the alloys to make the shell of the barrels. All have
there advantages and disadvantages. There are some composites
that are great in some areas such as POP, but poor in other areas
such as durability. Some are the opposite. Also remember that BFP
is a rating, some bats clearly make it, some just make it, some
perform at it, and others do not get approved.
Some players say you should not use a weighted sleeve on a
composite bat, but that the smaller donut is OK. What have you
heard about this?
I have heard of this, but do not believe or have any evidence that
this is correct. I usually recommend something like the Jeter
Variable Bat Weight Sleeve that is made of Nylon, but I do not
believe that the other weight sleeves will damage the bat.
A kid on my team has a Stealth bat marked with "Demo" on the
handle. Are these demo bats any different than store bought
versions?
NO. (well they are not supposed to be).
I was wondering how does a bat actually lose its "pop" and how
would a person actually know the pop is gone?
Bats can lose their pop several different ways - cracks, end cap
separation, sometimes you can just get a bad bat out of the batch.
Every bat will start to break down in time and eventually will crack
or start loosing pop as the material breaks down. How long this
takes depends on many factors, including proper care and use of the
bat.
You can usually tell when a bat starts to lose it's pop by the sound.
It won't have the same solid sound and will sound a little flat.
Sometimes you can tell by the feel of the bat at impact, where it
does not feel the same as it previously had, and you may notice the
velocity of the ball off the bat is not be like it had been. If the bat is
still under warranty, you can contact the manufacturer.
My friend told me that there are certain scratch lines in a
composite bat that are deep and it means that the bat is going to
crack. I have some of these scratches. Is this true?
Those lines actually mean very little. It is just how the
manufacturer mends the material to form the bat. Note that
eventually, when the bat gets to the point of breaking, it may use
one of those lines to break at.
My new composite bat has a certain sound that I've never heard
before. Does this mean that it is broken or is going to crack?
If the sound you're talking about is like a wooden bat sound,
welcome to the world of composite bats. It's a hard sound to get
used to, but the more you break-in your bat, the more Crisp the
sound will become. If you're referring to another sound such as a
rattle or thud, you may have an issue with the bat and should
contact the manufacturer.
If my bat breaks and I have my receipt what do I do?
Don’t take it back to the place you bought it from. You will
need to find the manufacturers contact number, which is usually on
the warranty information that comes with the bat, or you can find it
online. Call them up and arrange an exchange - they will tell you
what to do.
If my bat breaks and I don't have my original receipt what do I
do?
If you bought your bat with a credit card there is still hope. The
company you bought your bat from should be able to look up the
transaction and get you a copy of the receipt. If you paid cash or are
unable to get a copy of the receipt, you are probably out of luck and
will have to buy a new bat.
If my bat breaks and I send it in for a replacement can I get a
different size?
It usually depends on the manufacturer, but typically the size
and weight can be changed from the original. Keep in mind that
sometimes you may not be able to get the same model. You may
have an older model that is no longer available. In that case, they
will usually send you a newer model of equal or higher value for
the exchange.
•
Important Note on Bat Warranties
Each manufacturer has their own terms and conditions on bat
warranties. Be sure to read the bat warranty policy for your
particular bat before using it. Most bat warranties cover
manufacturing defects from normal field usage. Most warranties do
not cover bats used in commercial batting cages, altered in any
way, or mistreated. Remember to save your original receipt. You
will need to submit a copy of the receipt to be covered under the
warranty.
*** Louisville Slugger Baseball Bat
Technologies ***
*** Easton Baseball Bat Technologies
***
- General Terms •
Weight Drop
o Weight Drop is a term used to describe the weight of the
bat. Weight Drop is shown as a minus number, such as
minus 3 or minus 12. It refers to the difference between the
length of the bat (in inches) and the weight of the bat (in
ounces). Weight drop varies between brands and models.
For example, a Little League DeMarini F3 bat is minus 10.
It is available in lengths from 28 inch to 32 inch. The
weight of the 28 inch would be 18 ounces, the weight of the
32 inch would be 22 ounces. Weight drop for Little League
bats range from approx minus 7 to minus 13. The higher the
weight drop, the lighter the bat. High school and college
bats must be minus 3.
•
Barrel Size
o This is the diameter of the largest part of the bat. Little
League bats are 2 1/4 inch in diameter. Senior League bats
are available in 2 5/8 inch and 2 3/4 inch (big barrel). High
school and college bats are 2 5/8 inch.
o The longer and larger the barrel, generally, the larger the
sweet spot for hitting the ball.
o Some players prefer baseball bats with smaller barrels and
lighter weight, which allows for more bat speed.
•
Bat Taper (diameter of the bat's handle)
o Standard baseball bats are tapered 31/32 of an inch but can
be slightly larger or smaller depending on whether you
want a lighter or heavier bat.
o Some players like a narrower taper for the lighter weight
and to rotate their wrists faster when hitting. Other players
prefer the feel of a bigger bat taper, which can also reduce
the sting when a ball isn't struck on the sweet spot.
•
Grip (covering on the handle of aluminum bats)
o Baseball bats with leather or synthetic leather grips give a
tackier feel for a surer grip.
o Rubber grips absorb more of the shock.
o Some bats come with a cushioned grip to decrease the
shock even more.
- Choosing Youth Baseball Bats •
First, three words about bats: "Lighter Is Better"
Barry Bonds, who weighs 195 pounds, uses a 28 ounce bat! A light
bat is easier to control, and, contrary to old-school thinking, you
can hit a ball harder and farther with a light bat than with a heavy
bat because you can swing a light bat much faster. As acceptance of
this fact has grown in recent years, the overwhelming trend in both
baseball and softball has been to lighter bats. In case you need
convincing, consider that NCAA and high school reviewing sports
bodies have rules prohibiting baseball bats from being more than 3
ounces lighter in weight than the length of the bat in inches. This
was done for safety reasons-it was thought that big, strong players
swinging ultralight bats hit the ball so hard that infielders were at
risk.
In Little League, however, light bats are not considered to be unsafe
for defenders, because the players aren’t nearly as big and strong as
their older counterparts. Even using an ultralight 19 ounce Little
League bat, a typical 90 pound kid won’t be able to make up for the
disparity in size and strength between himself and a college player.
In fact, to have any chance of swinging with proper technique, most
Little League players need an ultralight bat.
It’s a bad idea to get a baseball bat that’s too heavy for your Little
Leaguer with the thought that he or she will "grow into it". Instead,
your kid will learn bad habits trying to swing a bat that is too
heavy. When in doubt about two bats, go with the lighter bat.
(Article dated May, 1999)
•
THE RULES
Little League baseball bats must be 32" or less and have barrels no
more than 2¼ in diameter. The bat must also be made of an
approved material, but need not actually say "approved by Little
League" on the bat. In practice, every major manufacturer uses
approved materials.
•
LENGTH AND WEIGHT
Manufacturers typically print the bat’s length in inches on the
barrel or the handle. They also print the weight, either in ounces, or
as "- something". The "-" stands for weight in ounces less than
length in inches. In other words, a 30 inch bat designated as "-10"
weighs 20 ounces. Weight: In general, buy a bat that is "-10" or
lighter.
The table below probably covers 80% of the players in a given
division, but, as they say, "your mileage may vary". Some kids are
bigger than others; some are strong for their size; some have
already developed good technique. The best any article can give
you is a rule of thumb.
Division (age)..............Bat Length, Weight
Farm (7-8)..................26" or 27", -10 or lighter
Jr. Minors (8-9)............27" to 29", -10 or lighter
Sr. Minors (9-12)..........28" to 31", -10 or lighter
Majors (10-12).............29" to 32", -9 or lighter
•
MATERIALS
Wood is out - has been for years. Wood baseball bats are heavier,
less durable, and have less "pop" than aluminum bats. Leave wood
to the pros. Most modern bats are made of aircraft-grade aluminum
supplied by Alcoa or Kaiser. Variations in the alloy formula have
resulted in stronger alloys, allowing the manufacturers to design
bats with thinner shell walls, which in turn corresponds to lighter
weight. All of these advanced alloys are known by trade names
(usually a number), as well as brand names (sometimes the same
grade will be marketed under a different brand name by different
bat makers). The brand names are heavily hyped: you can be sure
that if a bat is made of an advanced alloy, that fact will be
trumpeted somewhere on the bat, usually in large bold letters. By
the same token, you should beware of bats -11 or lighter that do not
state the type of alloy used. They will probably be made of an alloy
that is too weak to support the thinner wall required for the light
weight.
Standard aircraft aluminum is designated in the trade as "7046".
Most budget bats are made of this grade. "7050" grade alloy
includes a small amount of copper, and is about 33% stronger than
7046. About 12 years ago, Alcoa branded its 7050 grade "CU31"
and began marketing it in Slo-Pitch bats as the first high
performance alloy. The "CU" designation refers to the addition of
copper to the alloy. Alcoa’s "C405" is the next higher grade,
supposedly about 10% stronger than CU31. C405 as introduced 8
or 9 years ago, quickly followed by C405 Plus and C405 Ultra,
which are the same alloy manufactured under difference processes.
The strength difference between C405 and C405 Ultra is only about
5%. C405 Ultra is, therefore, about 38% stronger than standard
aircraft aluminum. "7075" is a new alloy by Kaiser that is claimed
to be equal to or better than C405 Ultra. Kaiser’s Sc500 Scandium,
and Alcoa’s C500 and C555 represent the next level up. C500 and
Sc500 Scandium are about 3-5% stronger than C405 Ultra,
respectively. C555 is claimed to be about 7% stronger than C405
Ultra, or about 40% stronger than standard aircraft grade aluminum.
The current king of the hill is SC777, made by Kaiser. While the
other exotic alloys only offer incremental strength gains over
CU31, SC777, if the claims are true, represents a truly big leap:
about 50% stronger than C405. This means that SC777 is nearly
twice as strong as standard aircraft aluminum.
(Article dated June, 2003)
•
WHY ALLOY GRADES MATTER (AND WHY THEY MAY
NOT)
There’s a lot of hype out there about the various alloys. Here’s why
alloy grade really matters. Manufacturers use advanced alloys in
order to be able to make the walls of the barrel of the bat thin while
still allowing the bat to be strong enough to resist denting. Thin
walls equal light weight. Thin walls are also claimed to contribute
to a "trampoline" effect, or rebound, when the bat strikes the ball.
The rebound effect enhances power, and therefore, distance, given
the same swing speed. Think of throwing a baseball against a wall
made of superball material, then against a wall made of concrete.
Other than allowing for thinner walls, however, there is little power
to be gained from the exotic alloys themselves. The various alloys
have virtually the same specific gravity, so the walls of a -11 CU31
bat are likely to be the same thickness as those of a -11 SC777 bat.
There may be some difference in the trampoline effect, but it is
negligible.
A good rule of thumb: stick to baseball bats made of CU31 or 7050
alloy or better for -10 bats, at least C405 for -11 bats, and C500 or
better for -12 bats. If your child is 11 or 12 and uncommonly large
and strong, consider Sc777. If the bat is -9 or heavier (I do not
recommend bats heavier than -9 in Little League), alloy grade is not
that important.
•
OTHER DESIGN FEATURES
In addition to advanced alloys, manufacturers also tout special
features or manufacturing processes that supposedly increase the
durability of their high-performance bats. Easton C-Core and Z-
Core bats have carbon fiber bonded to the inside of the barrel walls
for increased strength and durability. Easton C-Core and Z-Core
bats do have a reputation for durability; whether their durability
derives from the carbon fiber is anyone’s guess. Worth puts out
several bats that hype a "cryogenic" manufacturing process. Testing
by B&N Softball, an independent tester of slo-Pitch bats, has
shown that "cryogenic" bats offer no strength advantage over noncryogenic bats of the same alloy.
(Admittedly, this testing is now 2 years old; perhaps Worth’s
newest "cryogenic" bats do offer some advantage. Personally I
doubt it.) Worth also makes bats that employ variable wall
thickness. This supposedly allows stronger, thicker areas to be
adjacent to thinner areas, somehow making it less likely that the
bats will dent. Louisville Slugger"Air" bats and some Nike bats are
filled with pressurized nitrogen to keep the bat from denting. Seems
to me that this would affect, and maybe even compromise, the
trampoline effect, but I don’t know of any testing on the subject.
•
SHOPPING FOR A BAT
You can expect to pay anywhere from $40 to $200 for a Little
League bat (yes! $200 for a kid’s bat!), so it pays to shop around,
including on the Internet. As baseball bats become more and more
of a status item, like skis, manufacturers come out with new
designs, or at least new paint jobs, every year. Sometimes you can
find last year’s model for a lot less than the current model, and
sometimes last year’s model will actually be better.
- Metal vs. Wood -
Metal baseball bats significantly outperformed wooden bats according to
a recent study by a group of Brown University bioengineers, confirming
a belief widely held by players and coaches. The average speed of a ball
off the fastest bat, a metal model, was 93.3 mph; the average off the
slowest bat, a wooden model, was 86.1 mph. Only 2 percent of hits made
with wooden bats exceeded 100 mph, while 37 percent of the hits with
the fastest metal bat were more than 100 mph, according to Joseph J.
Crisco, associate professor of Orthopaedics at the Brown Medical
School. The findings were published in the October 2002 issue of
Medicine and Science in Sports and Exercise.
Although there is a general consensus that metal bats outperform wooden
bats, few scientific studies have documented performance differences. In
addition, the study confirmed the notion of a "sweet spot" associated with
maximum ball speeds – those within the top 20 percent of the fastest hits
from each bat model. The sweet spot was located approximately the same
distance from the tip of wooden bats as it was from the tip of metal bats.
Researchers concluded the metal bats produced faster batted ball speeds
in part due to faster swing speeds, and in part to greater elastic properties
found in nearly all of the metal bat models. In general, the lighter bats
were swung faster and were associated with faster batted ball speeds.
Nineteen baseball players at the level of minor league, collegiate, and
high school participated in the study. They used two wooden and five
aluminum models from four manufacturers. Researchers measured batted
ball speed, bat swing speed, bat impact location, and the elastic
performance properties of the bats. Each player faced 10 to 20 pitches
from a pitching machine with each bat. Researchers surrounded home
plate with scaffolding supporting four infrared-sensing cameras to track
the three-dimensional trajectory of the bat before impact as well as the
pitched and batted ball; the cameras sensed reflective tape affixed to the
bats and the balls. More than 1,000 pitches were recorded, of which
about half were able to be analyzed. The others resulted in foul balls,
pop-ups, missed pitches, or incomplete data.
The findings contribute to an ongoing dialogue about whether metal
baseball bats increase the chance of injury to a pitcher – something this
study did not examine – and therefore should be regulated. Currently
high school and college players use aluminum and other metal alloy bats,
while wooden bats are used in major and minor league baseball.
However that may change. A recent decision by the Massachusetts
Interscholastic Athletic Association, which regulates high school play,
requires wooden bats in the 2003 tournament. Metal bats were introduced
in the 1970s as a cost-saving alternative to wooden bats that were prone
to break. A decade later, a general consensus had developed among
players and coaches that metal bats could outperform wooden ones. In
the late-80s, the National Collegiate Athletic Association implemented
guidelines for weight and length of bats.