the guide.
Take your time as you travel down the NSW South Coast, and you’ll discover plenty of foodie gems
and artisan producers among the sparkling beaches, lush green hills and pristine National Parks.
WORDS michael shafran PHOTOGRAPHY john dennis
Someone should have told Italy’s Slow
Food founder Carlo Petrini to head south
during his visit to Sydney last spring. If
he’d explored the NSW beaches stretching
from Nowra to Narooma, he’d have been
exhilarated to find a steady commitment
from restaurants, cafes and producers
adhering to his beloved principles.
An easy drive from from Sydney and
Canberra, this stretch of coast has always
been a popular holiday spot, but these
60 delicious.
days you’ll also find increasing numbers
of people who are making the most of
local produce. Artisan bakers, boutique
winemakers and well-regarded city chefs
are setting up alongside established oyster
farmers and fishermen.
Take the time to discover these as well
as the beaches, and it will become obvious
why a new wave of seachangers is moving
here, bringing with them a vibrancy that
lasts well past summer’s peak.
around nowra
Hungry Duck
The cosmopolitan country town of Berry
is the unofficial gateway to the South
Coast, and it’s certainly worth a stop for
the Hungry Duck. Here, chef David
Campbell follows up his successful
Sydney cafe, The Book Kitchen, with
some exquisite mod-Asian flavours in an
intimate shopfront. Get in during daylight
hours to see the impressive kitchen garden,
Clockwise from far left: Mollymook sunrise;
David Campbell of Hungry Duck, Berry;
Cupitt’s Winery, Ulladulla; seafood plate and interior at Bannisters, Mollymook;
Paperbark Camp, Woollamia; Berry
Sourdough Bakery’s Jelle Hilkemeijer; The
Cake Store, Nowra; beetroot and feta salad at Paperbark Camp’s Gunyah Restaurant.
where produce including artichokes, kaffir
lime, fresh wasabi and blood oranges go
from garden to plate in dishes such as
tender braised wagyu brisket with blood
orange, cassia bark and star anise. 85
Queen St, Berry, (02) 4464 2323.
Berry Sourdough Bakery & Cafe
After eight years as Berry’s leading cafe,
the Sourdough Bakery is adding a
weekend dinner menu and liquor licence.
Another addition is Caroline Read (exBlancmange in Sydney) as head chef,
who’ll keep the winning formula going,
even as she injects more of her European-
style cooking into the menu. Baked goods
remain an attraction including the terrific
sourdough, brioche, tarts and teacakes.
Enjoy them among the hedges or relax
inside and ogle whatever emerges from
the antique woodfired oven. 23 Prince
Alfred St, Berry, (02) 4464 1617.
For shopping in Berry, start at the ivyencased Roots & Wings Design (83 Queen
St, (02) 4464 2811), which carries a terrific
array of fashion labels and homewares.
Next, bring the coastal lifestyle home at
Cabana Jo’s (168 Albert St, (02) 4464 3490)
with classic surfing postcards and beachstyle homewares. Hidden in an industrial
complex, The Treat Factory (Unit 6, Old
Creamery Ln, (02) 4464 1112) has been
offering housemade jams, fudge and
marmalades for three generations.
The Cake Store
In the past, Nowra has mostly served
drivers seeking a quick pit stop as they
head down the coast, but turn off the
highway and surprises await along
Kinghorne Street. The biggest drawcard is
Glenn and Danielle Parkes’ cafe. The couple
spent time at the Berry Sourdough Bakery
& Cafe, and their skills are evident in
luscious baked goods such as chocolate
the guide.
and orange cake, or raspberry and four-nut
tart. The bespoke space touts mix-andmatch chairs and white Laminex tables,
while the weekly-changing menu offers the
likes of banana and date loaf with ricotta
and honey, or gnocchi with cherry tomatoes,
artichokes and asparagus. 39A Kinghorne
St, Nowra, (02) 4423 0063.
Across the road is River Deli (84
Kinghorne St, Nowra, (02) 4423 1344),
which started the street’s gourmet ascent.
Amid a modern chandelier and dual
antique eight-seater tables, you’ll find
bread baked onsite, fresh tarts and muffins,
quality sandwiches such as mixed-grain
loaf with Burrawang cured ham, and
pleasing plates like a mille-feuille of
caramelised onion and mushroom duxelle.
Two Figs Winery
Seagrass Brasserie
IT executive Shayne Bricker’s fascination
with wine led him to this hilltop vineyard.
His focus is on soft, approachable wines
with natural acidity and plenty of fruit
flavour. Check out the lovely verdelho.
905 Bolong Rd, Berry (02) 4448 5003.
You’ll find Husky’s premier restaurant,
Seagrass, located in a refurbished cottage.
Here, the modern, festive dining area
stretches from pillow-lined benches under
a tented patio to the restored wood floors
and white-painted beams of the main
room. Chef Kierrin McKnight gives Mod
Oz a good name with offerings such as
braised pork belly with rice noodles or
pan-seared salmon fillet with Southern
Thai panang curry. 13 Currambene St,
Huskisson, (02) 4441 6124.
Coolangatta Estate
Of the scattering of South Coast wineries,
Coolangatta stands at the top for consistent
quality. Semillon is the standout, aided by
Hunter Valley stalwart Tyrrell’s as
winemaker. Check out the improbable
bottling of tannat, a French varietal as dark
as squid ink. At the restaurant, $25 buys a
regional lunch plate with four tasting
glasses of wine. 1335 Bolong Rd,
Shoalhaven Heads, (02) 4448 7131.
Tenthousand Tastebuds
Good eating options were non-existent
in Culburra until three years ago when
German-born Britta Opel transformed this
site from a ramshackle fish-and-chippery
into a gourmet cafe. She serves Toby’s
Estate coffee and lunch fare spanning from
Moroccan lamb burgers to curry specials.
Dinner has just been added to Friday and
Saturday nights. 2/167 Prince Edward Ave,
Culburra Beach, (02) 4447 4477.
Gidget Goes to Culburra
This cheeky beach shack exudes retromeets-maritime charm, with vintage
Gidget posters over the bed and a wallhigh model boat in the lounge area. The
two-bedder (plus optional kids’ bunk
beds made from an antique wardrobe) is
painted brazen pink, but the chick-kitsch
exterior is balanced indoors by boy-blue
wicker furniture and old bus route signs.
There are even dog bowls and toys for the
pooch, but just remind Fido to stay off
the bed. From $230. 78 Park Row,
Culburra Beach, 0400 606 990.
At the Crookhaven Oyster Farmers
complex in Greenwell Point, you’ll find the
first of many oyster farms along the South
Coast, including Bed Rock Oysters (11/170
Greens Rd, 0413 480 972). This quality
producer farms by hand using eco-friendly
materials, and shucks on demand,
preserving the river liquor inside.
62 delicious.
Cambewarra Estate
North-west of Nowra, this estate has an
excellent verdelho and good chardonnay.
Even if they’re not on the list, try to get
a taste of the regarded blanc de blanc
sparkling and late-harvest chardonnay.
520 Illaroo Rd, Banglee, (02) 4446 0170.
around jervis bay
The Gunyah Restaurant
& Paperbark camp
Gongs have come and gone at Paperbark
Camp’s flagship restaurant, but the magic
has returned under new chef John Evans,
who earned a hat at 3 Weeds in Sydney’s
Rozelle. John’s rustic European cooking
seamlessly fits with the designer treehouse
aesthetic, candlelit setting, wood fire and
balcony with gum tree panoramas. Grab a
drink on the deck, then head indoors for
pepperberry-spiced kangaroo loin or
slow-cooked pork belly with morcilla and
caramelised apple. Paperbark Camp itself
remains one of the South Coast’s most
inspired stays. The bushland setting offers
luxury canvas tents from Botswana, the
deluxe versions with freestanding baths
and king beds. Seclusion is only
interrupted by the occasional neighbour:
maybe a sugar glider or kangaroo. From
$340 per double including breakfast. 571
Woollamia Rd, Woollamia, (02) 4441 7299,
paperbarkcamp.com.au.
Supply
This cheery space combines cafe, fruit shop,
deli and gourmet goods supplier. Belinda
Bunter features many products from the
region, including her grandmother’s
Southern Highlands harvests. She also
brews a great latte – enjoy it with a brekkie
of yoghurt pannacotta and almond granola.
1/54 Owen St, Huskisson, (02) 4441 5815.
Another good option is Locavore (2/66
Owen St, Huskisson, (02) 4441 5464), which
sources produce from within 100 miles and
offers such temptations as roast pumpkin
tartlets with organic feta and chilli jam.
Just past Jervis Bay overlooking placid
St Georges Basin, By the Beach B&B
(260 Greville Ave, Sanctuary Pt, (02) 4443
3208, bythebeachbandb.com.au, from $160
per double) is a collection of affordable,
expansive studios with polished concrete
floors, high ceilings, heaps of closet space
and views over Palm Beach.
around ulladulla
Rick Stein at Bannisters
No South Coast restaurant has been more
hotly anticipated than October’s opening
of Rick Stein’s first Australian outpost.
Seafood, naturally, is the raison d’être, with
head chef Julian Lloyd (a veteran of Rick’s
UK restaurant) serving up lobster ravioli in
spinach and basil sauce, Indonesian
seafood curry, and a mixed shellfish plate
with the rare inclusion of periwinkles.
The elegant white room creates intimacy
with sheer hanging screens, while a glass
outlook and balcony offer ocean views
through the trees. The floor is run by
manager Toby Evans, son of the late,
Clockwise from top right: Bunyas Organics & Antiques, Milton; Belinda and Glenda
Bunter of Supply, Huskisson; roasted
snapper with parsnip puree and red wine jus at The Gunyah Restaurant, Woollamia;
Tyler’s Kitchen; Josh Tyler; Culburra Beach.
the guide.
Cupitt’s winery
Rosie Cupitt was already busy as founder
of the Shoalhaven’s Slow Food convivium.
She now channels her Slow Food ethos into
this hilltop restaurant, vineyard and cattle
property, with views of the Budawang
Ranges and Burrill Lake. In the Vineyard
Kitchen, chef Damien Martin (ex-Bannisters
and Quay) delivers skilled plates that let
the locally sourced produce shine. Thinsliced beetroot is paired with fried zucchini
flowers and soft goat’s curd, while beef eye
fillet arrives perfectly cooked with muscatel
puree and a mushroom velouté. In the
winery, Rosie brings a focus seldom seen in
the area: backgrounds in horticulture and
landscaping, schooling in chemistry and
winemaking, and working vintages in
France. This is her third vintage, but the
fruits of her labour are already showing.
‘Alphonse’, a lightly wooded sauvignon
blanc, has a citrus complexity that’s the
antithesis of passionfruit pops. Tastings are
held in an 1851 stone structure that was
once a creamery. 58 Washburton Rd,
Ulladulla, (02) 4455 7888.
Pilgrims Cafe
One bite of the glorious Bliss Burger – a
vegie patty topped with tabbouleh, sprouts,
avocado and peanut sauce – explains why
locals swear by it. The vibe is more hip than
hippie, with surfboards hung from walls
and fresh-squeezed juice blends named
after surf breaks. Shop 8, The Settlement,
Princes Hwy, Milton, (02) 4455 3421.
64 delicious.
Alternatively, retreat to the beach house
with gourmet takeaway from The Kitchen
(Shop 3, 105 Princes Hwy, Milton, (02) 4454
2042), which serves just-baked meat pies,
curries and housemade ice creams.
While in Milton, visit Bunyas Organics
& Antiques (127 Princes Hwy, (02) 4455
7022), where Susan Curran sells eggs from
her free-range chooks and greens from her
garden, as well as vintage meat safes
converted into cupboards.
A year ago, Jasper Peel Breads (10
Watson St, Ulladulla, (02) 4455 7969)
stepped out of the shadows of its hard-tofind arcade location and moved its organic
breadmaking into this roomier space in the
centre of town. Now, the secret is out about
Jasper’s terrific breads, including classic
or spelt sourdoughs, rustic Italian, oily
Turkish, oat and grain, and wheat-free rye.
The Fish Shop
The South Coast is blessed with excellent
fish-and-chipperies, and among the finest
is The Fish Shop. Fish arrive nightly from
the Ulladulla trawlers, then are filleted each
morning. Owner Zoran Praja once managed
the Ulladulla Fisherman’s Co-op, so thank
his connections for the flathead, albacore,
ling, moonfish and mahi mahi that grace
the list, depending on the day’s catch. 107
Princes Hwy, Burrill Lake, (02) 4455 1906
around batemans bay
Bawley Vale Estate
Heading south from Burrill Lake, you’ll
find this winery where every bottle comes
from hand-picked grapes and is named
after a nearby landmark. The signature ‘No
Toes’ (named for a local surf break) is a
shiraz, cabernet sav and chambourcin
blend. There’s jazz among in the vines on
long weekends, where you might spot local
wine guru Greg Duncan Powell playing
with his rockabilly band. Bawley Pt Rd,
Bawley Pt, (02) 4457 2555.
North St Cafe & Bar
Not only does Drew Tweedie’s cafe
specialise in gluten-free breads and cakes
baked onsite, it’s also one of the top stops in
town. Other gems include spelt pappardelle
with roast eggplant, octopus salad with
capsicum and fennel, and daily wraps with
filling such as roast duck and beetroot
relish. Regular music nights feature indie
bands on their way between cities.
5 North St, Batemans Bay, (02) 4472 5710.
While in the Bay, try Pearly Oyster Bar
(6 North St, (02) 4472 4233), run by a family
that’s been farming oysters for 30 years.
Tyler’s Kitchen
The coast south of Batemans Bay has terrific
beaches but lacked a champion eatery until
September’s opening of Tyler’s Kitchen in
pretty Malua Bay. Josh Tyler grew up here
and returned to make his mark after a stint
as head chef at Canberra’s Benchmark. The
modern European menu (think mushroom
lasagne with tarragon emulsion, or squid
ink-marinated kingfish) changes daily, and
produce is a community effort: strawberries
are raised over the hill and beetroot arrives
from down the road. The bright space is
augmented by a wall of chalkboards filled
with enthusiastic scribblings by patrons.
4 Kuppa Ave, Malua Bay, (02) 4471 1122.
The River Moruya
Are three chefs better than one? They are at
this riverside indoor-outdoor restaurant
run by three friends. All are French-trained,
have cooked in the UK, and arrived from
hatted Melbourne fine diners. Tim Saffery
and Peter Compton (ex-The Court House)
run the kitchen, while Tobie Patrick (exCirca, the Prince) heads up pastry, all
producing fare worthy of a city setting –
and for less dosh. Start with salmon
beignets with parsnip puree, then tuck into
pan-roasted Bermagui kingfish with
crabmeat-stuffed zucchini flowers. Save
space for dessert – maybe an airy chocolate
delice with cherry and coconut ice cream.
16B Church St, Moruya, (02) 4474 5505.
around narooma
Tuross Boatshed & Cafe (93 Trafalgar Rd,
Tuross Head, (02) 4473 8127), set on pristine
Tuross Lake, is a top location for fish and
chips – a fresh catch of prawns and oysters
arrives on Fridays, so weekends are best.
For a longer lunch, hit the adjoining Pickled
Octopus (93D Trafalgar Rd, Tuross Head,
(02) 4473 6084) with its outdoor barbie.
pilgrims cafe photos: michael shafran paperpark camp photos: Dick Sweeney
legendary Australian winemaker Len,
with his influence shown in the wellcrafted wine list. The wet-edge pool alone
is worth a stay here, spilling over to endless
sea views. Most rooms offer ocean outlooks
from private decks, or splash out on the
new Pinnacle penthouse, with a home
cinema, indoor and outdoor showers and
steam room. For more private luxury,
there’s also the four-bed Bannister Blue,
plus the restored 1960s “Rick’s Place”,
overlooking the cliffs from a wraparound
deck with a gourmet kitchen and hot tub.
From $230 per double including breakfast.
191 Mitchell Pde, Mollymook, (02) 4455
3044, bannisters.com.au.
the guide.
Clockwise from above: the deck at Bodalla
Dairy Shed; Rosie Cupitt; Cupitt’s Winery,
Ulladulla; Pilgrims Cafe, Milton; raspberry
and lime curd mille-feuille at Berry’s Hungry
Duck; Bunyas Organics & Antiques, Milton.
delicious. 65
the guide.
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map key
Bannisters.............................................. 7
Bawley Vale Estate................................ 10
Bed Rock Oysters.................................... 3
Berry Sourdough Bakery & Cafe............ 1
Bodalla Dairy Shed............................... 15
Bunyas Organics & Antiques.................. 6
By The Beach B&B.................................. 5
Cabana Jo’s............................................. 1
Cambewarra Estate................................ 2
Coolangatta Estate................................. 1
Cupitt’s Vineyard Kitchen & Winery....... 8
Gidget Goes to Culburra......................... 3
Hungry Duck........................................... 1
Jasper Peel Breads................................ 8
Montague Coffee................................... 16
North St Cafe & Bar.............................. 11
Paperbark Camp.................................... 4
Pearly Oyster Bar................................. 11
Pickled Octopus.................................... 14
Pilgrims Cafe.......................................... 6
River Deli................................................ 2
Roots & Wings Design............................ 1
Saltwater at Narooma.......................... 16
Seagrass Brasserie................................ 4
South Coast Cheese.............................. 15
Supply..................................................... 4
Tenthousand Tastebuds.......................... 3
The Cake Store....................................... 2
The Fish Shop......................................... 9
The Gunyah Restaurant.......................... 4
The River Moruya.................................. 13
The Treat Factory.................................... 1
The Whale Restaurant.......................... 16
Tilba Valley Wines................................. 16
Tuross Boatshed & Cafe....................... 14
Two Figs Winery...................................... 1
Tyler’s Kitchen...................................... 12
Bodalla Dairy Shed
The Whale Restaurant
Tilba Valley Wines
This groovy milk bar prides itself on shakes
and burgers made with local dairy and
meat – chef Ruben Poole (ex-The River
Moruya) has just joined the kitchen, so stay
tuned. The former factory’s fridge and
maturation shelves are here, joined by a
1962 AMI jukebox, plus you can take
home moo-themed kitchenware. Outside,
discover picnic tables made from colourful
painted doors and a relaxing deck area. A
new cheesemaking facility will soon bring
modern wheys to Bodalla’s cheesy history.
52 Princes Hwy, Bodalla, (02) 4473 5555.
While in Bodalla, catch South Coast
Cheese (22 Potato Point Rd, Bodalla, (02)
4473 5287) before it relocates to Tilba Tilba
as part of a major expansion. Cheddar and
tasty cheeses are a specialty.
Yes, it’s in an uninspired motel, but step
inside to discover Parisian chef Gilbert
Prevost serving fusion fare to a Slow Food
beat – perhaps Eden mussels (from further
down south) with bamboo shoot coleslaw
– plus dazzling panoramic vistas of the
wave-battered coast. 104 Wagonga St,
Narooma, (02) 4476 2411.
At this small vineyard, whose plantings
date back to 1978, enjoy the unwooded
chardonnay or chambourcin rosé, maybe
with Londoner owner Peter Herrmann’s
ploughman’s lunch. 947 Old Hwy,
Narooma, (02) 4473 7308.
The small, modern B&B Saltwater at
Narooma (1A Water Cres, Narooma, (02)
4476 2468, from $210 per double with
breakfast, saltwaternarooma.com) offers a
room with ensuite and spa or suite with
kitchenette. Breakfast is a highlight, with
cafe-style fare such as banana crepes. d.
Thanks to Tourism NSW for their assistance.
For more information, go to: visitnsw.com.au.
ABC South East NSW broadcasts to the South
Coast, and you’ll find their food-related features
and podcasts at abc.net.au/southeastnsw.
66 delicious.
Montague Coffee
The Eurobodalla region has gotten
itself on the coffee map with this boutique
roaster and cafe, which roasts several
single-estate coffees via a Turkish
Has Garanti machine. Most beans are
organic or Fairtrade, as are the chocolates
for sale. 2/40 Princes Hwy, Narooma,
(02) 4405 9523.
illustration: priscilla nielsen
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