34 C H E E S E & 35 D A I RY Alba Cheese At Alba’s no-nonsense factory outlet, there’s a sparkling front counter and next to it, steamy windows reminiscent of a Turkish bathhouse, through which you can see workers gently scooping cheese from an enormous steel vat. Bring your own pot, knock at the window and you’ll be treated to the freshest ricotta in Melbourne. White-clad women in hairnets serve you from behind a counter stacked with Alba’s range of cheeses. There are knots of haloumi sprinkled with nigella seeds bobbing in brine, and wedges of pecorino pepato, shot through with black peppercorns. Provoletta (aged mozzarella) dangles enticingly on the back wall. Europa Cheese TULLAMARINE 27–33 Assembly Drive T 9330 2282 www.albacheese.com.au Mon–Fri 8am–5pm; Sat–Sun 8am–noon Melway 15 E4 Top buy Ovolini, tiny sweet orbs of fresh mozzarella Shop 17–20 Deli Hall, Queen Victoria Market, corner Elizabeth & Victoria streets T 9328 2003 Tues & Thurs 6am–2pm; Fri 6am–5pm; Sat 6am– 3pm; Sun 6am–4pm Melway 43 F6 CITY Shop 1–2, Deli Hall, Queen Victoria Market T 0419 347 631 Tues, Thurs & Sat 6am–2pm; Fri 6am–5pm Melway 43 F6 La Latteria CANTERBURY 141 Maling Road T 9830 7915 www.corneliusfoods. com.au Mon–Sat 8am–5pm; Sun 8am–4pm Melway 46 D11 Top buy Delice de Bourgogne, a French triple cream cow’s milk cheese It’s billed as a ‘mozzarella laboratory’ but equal parts art and science are at play here. In the bright workshop out back, fresh cheeses are hand-stretched each morning before joining the wide array of matured offerings displayed in the shop cabinet out front. Burrata, ricotta and fior di latte bob in pots; nearby are more unusual offerings such as dense cheese ‘doughnuts’ of air-dried mozzarella studded with fennel seeds and peppers. Those not prepared on-site are sourced from co-owner Giorgio Linguanti’s That’s Amore cheesemakers in Thomastown. You can also buy additive-free yoghurt, unhomogenised milk and delicious pure cream. CARLTON 104 Elgin Street T 9347 9009 www.lalatteria.com.au Mon–Fri 9am–7pm; Sat 9am–2pm Melway 43 J3 Top buy ‘Little basil twists’ are filled, bite-sized bocconcini knots Curds & Whey Top buy Salted butter, especially the deep-yellow butter of late spring If you fell in love with a cheese on a jaunt to Europe, this is the place to track it down. This Queen Vic Market stall specialises in European cheeses: mainly French, but with a smattering of Spanish, Swiss, Italian, English and German examples, too. Evocative label descriptions such as ‘raw’, ‘cave-ripened’ and ‘rural’ make decisions about what to take home even harder. They also stock terrines featuring venison, duck and rabbit, along with tasty pork rillettes. Mustards, jams and other French comestibles line the walls, allowing you to relive that Brittany sojourn for a fraction of the cost. Top buy Gabriel Coulet roquefort is particularly delectable and creamy Cornelius Cheese Known as ‘the butter shop’, this homely Queen Vic Market stall might not have the wow factor of some of its competitors, but that is precisely what its fans love about it. Salted, lightly salted and unsalted butter is presented in large blocks, sourced from grass-fed Warrnambool cows. It has a deliciously clean, creamy taste and puts most supermarket butters to shame. Hunks of Australian cheddar, such as Drouin mild and vintage, are on offer, as well as local goat’s cheese La Luna and French morbier, a semi-soft cow’s milk with a fine seam of ash. Gippsland cream and creme fraiche are also available. 2 Attenborough Street T 5941 9025 www.europacheese.com Tues & Fri 9am–4pm; Sat 8.30am–1pm Melway 90 B8 The French Shop CITY Top buy Alexandrina is a standout among a high-quality cheddar selection Fromage fanciers will be in their element at this premium cheese shop, behind a picket fence in Canterbury’s historic shopping strip. The ever-changing range of seasonal cheeses is sourced from France, Italy and Portugal as well as artisan Australian producers. From a selection that might include sweet and gooey L’edel de Cleron, pungent munster (both from France) or picnic-perfect Babybert from South Australia, knowledgeable staff will help you make a good choice. You’ll also find delicious biscuits (try Fine Cheese Co’s rosemary crackers), fig pastes and muscatels to make your cheese platter really shine. DANDENONG Top buy Tangy, chilli-flecked pecorino, with a pleasantly sharp kick Bill’s Farm There’s not much Bill Tzimas doesn’t know about cheese: he’s a Dairy Australia cheese judge and a qualified cheese grader. At his Queen Vic Market stall, fine Australian cheeses, often from artisan producers, sit alongside great Europeans, all ripe for eating, having been perfectly aged at the off-site warehouse. Helpful staff wrestle whole wheels of parmesan and inform customers, many regulars, of the merits of the various soft goat’s cheeses. Bill’s is also the place to find the next ‘it’ ingredient, such as Cornish salt or fresh burrata (creamy mozzarella), and a large range of prized jamon. When John and Jacqueline Interlandi opened their first cheese factory in Hawthorn in 1971, they couldn’t stop enthusiastic Italian locals from walking in off the street and asking to buy wholesale, so they decided to set up shop. Three days a week, customers flock to their Dandenong warehouse to buy seriously good-value fresh ricotta, local parmesan and aged pecorino, as well as imported gorgonzola, provolone and graviera. Half a kilo is the minimum order, cut from the wheel, or you can pick up one of the huge tubs of buffalo mozzarella. Devotees come on Tuesdays, when the ricotta has just been made. Mamma Lucia Cheese Shop CITY Shop 12–13, Deli Hall, Queen Victoria Market, corner Elizabeth & Victoria streets T 9326 9009 Tues & Thurs 6am–2pm; Fri 6am–5pm; Sat 6am–3pm Melway 43 F6 Mamma Lucia is a little slice of Italy – and not just because of all the Italian-style cheeses on sale. Staff and customers speaking la lingua italiana also add brio. It is spotless, speedy (take a number) and fun. There’s a selection of Italian groceries but the main event is the huge selection of cheese in a fridge occupying one wall. You’ll find plenty of the house products, including bocconcini, ricotta, scamorza, mascarpone and their own parmesan-style cheese, at a fraction of retail prices, along with imports, including Norwegian jarlsberg and English stilton made with vegetarian rennet, and local stars Jindi brie and Meredith Dairy chevre. Top buy Scamorza (smoked mozzarella), delicious grilled BRUNSWICK 50 Weston Street T 9381 2256 www.freshcheese.com.au Mon–Fri 8.30am– 4.30pm; Sat 9am– 1.30pm Melway 29 H9
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