TORTOISE CARE SHEET
The Horsfieldi Tortoise is known by many different names, these include... Russian tortoise, Steppe
tortoise, Afghanistan tortoise, Four-toed tortoise and even Russian box turtle. The Horsfieldi Tortoise
originates from Afghanistan, Northern Pakistan, Northern and Eastern Iran, North Western China
and the Soviet territory Kazakhstan.
The Hermans tortoise is recognised by a single horny claw at the tip of its tail.
The male is recognised by having a longer and more pointed tail. Some males have a concave
plastron. The upper part of a tortoises shell is known as the Carapace, whilst the lower part
(beneath the tortoise) is known as the Plastron.
The Hermans tortoise (testudo hermanni) originates from southern France, coastlines of Italy, the
former Yugoslavia and islands of the Mediterranean.
Tortoises, like most other reptiles, are ectothermic. This means they rely on an external heat source
(the sun) to raise their body temperature. Almost 100% Hermans and Horsfieldi tortoises now kept
as pets are captive bred.
Hermans tortoises are protected by CITES, and must be sold with the correct documentation. This is
a yellow DEFRA certificate and this will accompany the tortoise for the rest of its life. The certificate
must be shown when the tortoise is offered for sale, sold, bought, exchanged or exhibited. When a
tortoise is purchased the certificate must be sent away to DEFRA, along with an application form. A
new yellow certificate will be returned with the new orwners details shown. This protects the wild
tortoise against illegal capture, smuggling and cruelty (in other words, those holiday makers who
bring a tortoise home in their suitecase).
Because of CITES, the Hermans is not an endangered species.
It is a criminal offence to sell/buy/own a Hermans tortoise without a certificate.
Horsfieldi Tortoise do not currently require DEFRA registration.
CITES - Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species
HANDLING
Its best not to handle a tortoise unless it is really neccesary. To pick up the tortoise, hold
the sides of the shell firmly and then support the tortoise underneath with your other hand.
Allow the tortoise to rest all his feet on your hand to give the tortoise a sense on security.
Never hold a tortoise in the air without supporting its legs as this will cause great stress.
SEXING
Males have a longer, thicker tail and a concave plastron.
SUMMER/WINTER
On sunny days during the summer the tortoise can be kept outdoors in a garden. Ensure the
garden is escape proof. In unsecure gardens the use of a rabbit run with prvent loss of the
tortoise.
Provide several hides which contain hay for cool nights. If the tortoise if allowed to roam in the
garden, ensure that weed killers and pesticides have not been used.
When the weather is cold and wet, it is best to bring the tortoise indoors into a purpose built
vivarium. During winter keep the tortoise indoors or allow it to enter hibernation.
FEEDING
In the wild, the tortoise will consume mainly flowers, stalks and green leaves. They rarely
encounter fruit. Never feed a tortoise on dog food or other pet foods.Tortoises fed in this manner,
and also on such foods as peas and beans will die from renal failure. Good foods are dandelion
leaves, brocoli, spinich, mustard greens, cabbage, celery etc. For treats use blackberries or blue
berries.
Always ensure fresh water is available to drink from a low sided dish, and when possible allow
the torotise to bath in a shallow bath. Most tortoises prefer to drink by entering a shallow pool
rather than drinking by mouth.
HOUSING/VIVARIUM
If the tortoise is to be kept indoors, a vivarium can be set up to give the tortoise exposure to the
correct air temperature and humidity. This will also allow the tortoise to benefit from ultraviolet
light.
An adult tortoise is best suited to a vivarium of 48" x 15" to give room for walking and a differing
terrain. The vivarium must contain ultraviolet light and be heated from above with a heat lamp.
VIVARIUM SUBSTRATE & DECORATION
Many substrates can be used with these tortoises. “Repti Turf” is the best substrate to use with
tortoises. Woodchip and artificial turfs can also be used. These are both easy to clean and are
well liked by the tortoises. Reptile sand can also be used, if this contains calcium it will greatly
benefit the tortoise. The substrate must be kept clean, and replaced on a regular basis. Include
plenty of hiding areas by using wooden hides and hay. Ensure clean drinking water is provided
with a dish that allows the tortoise to bath in shallow water.
VIVARIUM HEATING & TEMPERATURE
For dayime heating and lighting, a 60 or 100 watt reptile heat bulb can be used. The daytime
temperature should be around 80 - 85 deg F. at the heat source, and should be no lower than
75 deg F at the cold end of the vivarium. The night time temperture should not drop below 65
deg F, and will be controlled by a heat mat, or a night time heat bulb. The use of a Thermostat to
control these temperatures will greatly assist in the well being of the tortoise.
ULTRAVIOLET LIGHT
Regular exposure to ultraviolet light is essential for the tortoise to receive vitamin D3. The
ultraviolet light will be provided using a UV fluorescent light tube. This is placed not more than 12
inches from the tortoises rest area, and should be on for between 8 to 12 hours each day whilst
the tortoise is in the vivarium. The UV tube should be replaced every 9 to 12 months. Although
the tube will still emit visible light,this will no longer include any UV.
Urmston Aquatics & Reptile Centre
20 The Circle, Barton Road, Lostock, Manchester. M32 9TR
0161-755-0030
www.urmstonaquatics.co.uk
email : [email protected]