Session 4
Cutting techniques
GH12
Trainer requirements to teach this session
For this session you will need the following:
• Handout GH12.4.1
• Slide GH12.4.1
• Activity
GH12.4.1
• Handout GH12.4.2 (2 pages)
• Handout GH12.4.5
• Handout GH12.4.6 (2 pages)
• Handout GH12.4.7 (2 pages)
• Handout
GH12.4.9
• Slide
GH12.4.9
•Hairdressing block and holder,
sectioning clips, comb
•A selection of style plates with haircuts
suitable for a variety of facial shapes
in GH12 Step by Steps
• Learner check for Session 4.
Trainer notes
The session will cover:
4.1 How the factors in the range can affect the
way hair is cut
4.2 Why it is important to check the hair before
and after shampooing prior to cutting
4.3 The importance of consulting with the client
throughout the cutting process
4.4 The importance of applying the correct
degree of tension to the hair when cutting
4.5 How and when to use club cutting, freehand
and scissor over comb cutting techniques
4.6 The reasons for establishing and following
guidelines
4.7 How to create and follow a guideline for a
one length, uniform layer, short graduation
and long graduation looks
4.8 The importance of cross checking the cut
© Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
Page 1 - Unit GH12 - Session 4.
Session 4
GH12
4.9 The importance of considering weight
distribution and working with the natural fall
of the hair
4.10How the angle at which the hair is held will
affect the weight distribution, balance and
degree of the graduated cut
4.11 How to create the looks in the range
Aftercare advice and communication
4.12 The importance of regular cuts and the
recommended time interval between cuts.
4.13 How to give effective advice and recommendations to clients
Page 2 - Unit GH12 - Session 4.
© Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
Session 4
Cutting techniques
GH12
4.1How the factors in the range can affect the
way hair is cut
Take the learners through the items in the range and
explain how each affect the way the hair is cut. (Or
remind them if this area of learning was covered in
GH12.3.1):
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Hair density – hair may be too sparse or
too abundant
Hair texture – hair may be too coarse or too fine for
the required style
Hair growth patterns – may force them to change
the choice of haircut or choice of tools
Facial and head shape – the haircut should be
chosen to flatter the shape of the face and head
Hair growth patterns – the growth patterns may
restrict the choice of hair style or cut
Hair elasticity – they will have to adjust the degree
of tension applied according to:
The elasticity – hair will stretch more when the hair
is wet, therefore, care must be taken with the
amount of tension that is being used when the hair
is cut.
© Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
Page 3 - Unit GH12 - Session 4.
Session 4
GH12
Face Shape
Ref: Handout GH12.4.1 & Slide GH12.4.1
Show the slide and describe the main facial shapes
Ref: Activity GH12.4.1
Selection of style plates of haircuts suitable
for a variety of facial shapes.
Distribute style plates of women's haircuts.
Use the facial shapes on Handout GH12.4.1 as a basis
for discussion with learners. Ask them to look at the
style plates and decide which haircut is most
appropriate for each of the facial shapes.
4.2Why it is important to check the hair before
and after shampooing prior to cutting
4.3The importance of consulting with the client
throughout the cutting process
Ref: Handout GH12.4.2
Explain that the hair may have different characteristics
that are only apparent when the hair is wet or dry.
Explain to learners that they should check for the
following before the hair is shampooed:
All these must be checked on dry hair:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
hair texture
hair density
hair type
hair growth patterns
signs of disease or disorder
signs of infection or infestation
piercings
In addition, they must carry out a full consultation with
the client to establish their requirements before the hair
is shampooed.
Page 4 - Unit GH12 - Session 4.
© Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
Session 4
GH12
Following the shampoo, the following should be
checked
•
•
•
natural partings
elasticity
natural movement in the hair
In addition, tell learners they must confirm the wishes
of the client before they begin to cut the hair and
continue with the consultation throughout the cutting
service.
Client consultation during the cutting
service
Explain to learners that it is important for the
consultation that was started prior to when the
cut began is continued throughout whole of the cutting
service.
Tell learners that the consultation should continue for
the following reasons:
•
•
The client may be worried about the amount of hair
they are cutting
The client may change their minds about their
original request part way through the cut
In addition, explain that they will have the opportunity
to:
•
•
•
explain what they are doing and what they are
going to do next
confirm that the length and shape of the haircut are
meeting with client requirements
adapt and change the cut if necessary
4.4 The importance of applying the correct
degree of tension to the hair when cutting
Remind learners of the elasticity properties of the hair–
explain that this means that it can stretch and return to
its normal length. Emphasise that hair stretches more
when wet.
© Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
Page 5 - Unit GH12 - Session 4.
Session 4
GH12
Explain that, if they put too much tension on hair while
they are cutting it, it will stretch. Remind them that this
means that, when it goes back to its normal length it
may be too short.
Ask the learners which basic cutting
techniques will involve placing more
tension on the hair and which will
involve less tension.
Discuss the learners responses making reference to
the following:
•Club cutting - involves sectioning,
combing and holding the hair in position
to cut. Therefore a degree
of tension is applied to the hair. It is
important to avoid over-tensioning the
hair as this will produce inaccurate results
in the finished haircut.
•Freehand cutting - the hair is combed into
position but not held, therefore the hair is
not under any tension when it is cut.
•Scissors over comb cutting - the hair
is held in the teeth of the comb as it is
cut, this involves minimal tension.
Stress the importance of avoiding over-tensioning the
hair during cutting. Hair elasticity allows the hair to
stretch when tension is placed on it, particularly when
it is wet. When dry, the hair will return to its original
length, which may be shorter than the client requires.
4.5When and how to use club cutting, freehand
and scissor over comb cutting techniques
State that learners must know when to use a specific
technique as well as know how to use it.
Explain that, if they can do this, they will be more likely
to achieve the required look.
Page 6 - Unit GH12 - Session 4.
© Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
Session 4
GH12
Ref: Handout GH12.4.5
Hairdressing Block and Holder
Sectioning Clips and Comb
Go over the different cutting techniques, explaining
how to use them:
•
club cutting
Explain that the hair is combed smoothly from
the roots to the ends of the hair. It is held securely
between the fingers or in the comb at the correct angle
to achieve the desired effect and cut it straight across.
•
freehand
Explain that learners must comb the hair smooth and
into position then cut it without holding or supporting it
with either their hand or their comb.
•
scissors over comb
State that the hair is lifted and held in the comb by
combing the hair in an upward motion. The hair that
protrudes through the comb is cut, holding the scissors
above the comb. Tell learners to use the coarse teeth
of the comb when cutting the longer hair and the fine
teeth for holding the short hair around the ears and in
the nape.
Now explain when to use different techniques:
•club cutting – to reduce the length of the hair
without removing any of the bulk
•freehand – when tension is to be avoided, eg,
around a growth pattern or at the outside line of the
haircut if the hair is curly
•scissors over comb – explain that this technique is
used to shorten hair and to achieve graduation in a
haircut
© Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
Page 7 - Unit GH12 - Session 4.
Session 4
GH12
4.6 The reasons for establishing and following
guidelines
4.8 The importance of cross checking the cut
Ref: Handout GH12.4.6
Tell learners that there are three main reasons for
establishing and following guidelines:
•to
of
•to
• to
decide on the overall finished length and shape
the cut
ensure methodical progression through the cut
help to achieve accuracy of the cut
Explain that it is very important to determine the
different lengths of the haircut at different parts
of the head and that this is done by creating a
guideline or, sometimes, more than one guideline.
Say that a guideline can run:
•
•
horizontally (in the nape, from ear to ear round the
back of the head or across the crown)
vertically (from the centre front hairline to the
centre back nape).
Emphasise that it doesn’t matter where the guideline is
placed so long as it is accurate and
in accordance with the style requirements. Stress
that, if more than one guideline is used, the cut should
connect with each to create an even result.
Suggestion Use a block that has been previously cut,
or cut one as a demonstration to show
the learners how to progress from one
area of the head to another. Use the first
guideline to show where to cut the next
section and how this part then becomes
the guideline for the next section.
Page 8 - Unit GH12 - Session 4.
© Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
Session 4
GH12
Emphasise the importance of following any graduation
set by the guideline and say that they must work their
way over the head in a structured, methodical way to
ensure an accurate cut.
SuggestionUsing the same block, show learners how
to cross-check a cut – if they
used horizontal sections for cutting they
should use vertical sections for checking.
Conversely, if they used vertical sections
for cutting then they should use horizontal
sections for the cross-check.
Explain that this is where the process gets its name –
they must work across the original sectioning method.
By cross-checking they can ensure accuracy of the
cut.
Show basic methods of balancing the cut and how to
use the features of the head and face to measure the
different areas of the cut. Tell learners to be aware
that some features may not be in perfect alignment –
one ear may be very slightly higher than the other.
Emphasise the need to cross-check and balance every
cut.
Stress that no hairdresser is so good that s/he doesn’t
need to check his own work.
4.7How to create and follow a guideline for a
one length, uniform layer, short graduation
and long graduation looks
It is recognised that there are many
different methods for achieving the same result in
cutting. What follows are suggested routines.
Your own house style cutting routines can be
substituted if desired.
© Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
Page 9 - Unit GH12 - Session 4.
Session 4
GH12
Ref: Handout GH12.4.7
Uniform layer
Explain to learners how to hold the hair at 90°
to the scalp with the fingers parallel to the scalp. Say
that the hair is cut straight across to the
length required.
Show them how to use this section as a guide for all
subsequent sections, holding these at 90° in the same
way as before. Explain that the hair is cut to the same
length all over.
Suggestion Demonstrate how to do this.
Graduation
Explain that a graduation may be:
•a short graduation – shorter in the nape, longer
towards the crown
•a long graduation – longer in the nape, getting
shorter towards the crown
Graduation using vertical sections
Explain to learners (and demonstrate on a block) how
to take a narrow section of hair at the place where the
hair is to be graduated. Then state how the fingers
should be positioned in relation to the scalp at the
angle of graduation that they want. The hair is then
cut to the chosen length.
Tell them to continue taking small sections in
a straight line through the head, increasing or
decreasing the lengths until they reach the centre back
hairline.
Suggestion Demonstrate how to do this.
Page 10 - Unit GH12 - Session 4.
© Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
Session 4
GH12
Graduation using horizontal section
Explain to learners and demonstrate how to take
a narrow section of hair across the nape or at the
crown and hold it at the correct angle to achieve the
required graduation. Then state that the hair
is cut to the chosen length.
Explain that their fingers or the comb should be parallel
to the scalp. Show them how to do this. Tell them to
take small sections working up or down the head
depending on where they placed the guideline,
increasing/decreasing the lengths
as they go. Emphasise that they must use the
sections previously cut as guidelines for each
new section.
Suggestion Demonstrate how to do this.
Long graduated looks
Explain to learners that a long graduated cut is one in
which the inside lengths of the hair cut are shorter than
the outside lengths.
A guide line for the shortest length of the haircut
should be made first. This is usually at the top of the
head. A narrow section, running vertically from the
front hair line to just before the crown is made. The
hair is held at a right angle to the scalp and cut parallel
to the scalp to the desired length.
This guideline can then be used for all subsequent
sections. Each new section is combed to meet the first
section, held to meet the same right angle of the first
section and cut to the length of the first section.
Explain, that as each section of hair comes from an
area lower down the head, the length will naturally
increase, therefore a long graduated cut is achieved.
Suggestion Demonstrate how to do this.
© Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
Page 11 - Unit GH12 - Session 4.
Session 4
GH12
One length cut
The length of the outline shape is the guideline for a
one length cut. The hair is sectioned and the first
section is cut by holding the hair as close as possible
to the head, neck or body (depending on the length of
the cut). All other subsequent sections are cut to this
overall length.
Suggestion Demonstrate how to do this.
4.9 The importance of considering weight
distribution and working with the natural fall of the hair
4.10 The angle at which the hair is held will affect the weight distribution, balance and degree of the graduated cut
Ref: Handout GH12.4.9
Explain to learners that they must take into
consideration the weight distribution of the hair
throughout the head as well as the way the hair
naturally falls. Tell them that, if they ignore these
factors, they will not achieve the result they intend.
Weight distribution
State that the hair may be bulky around the nape area
or behind the ears, it may be sparse on top or at the
crown. Explain that a good hairdresser will check this
during consultation and design the haircut to suit the
weight distribution.
Natural fall of the hair
Explain that this is sometimes known as the natural lie
of the hair. It means the way the hair lies or falls on
the head.
Tell the learners to look carefully at the natural fall of
the hair – does it stick out from the scalp, is it pushed
in a specific direction by a growth pattern, does it lie
close to the scalp?
Page 12 - Unit GH12 - Session 4.
© Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
Session 4
GH12
Explain to the learners that all of these will influence
the choice of look to give the client as well as the
choice of technique to use to achieve the required
result.
Emphasise to learners that they must always consider
the angle at which they hold the hair
for cutting.
Tell them that, if they hold the hair at less or
more than 90° to the scalp, then the hair will
be graduated.
Ref: Slide GH12.4.9
Show the slide and go over the angles shown to
achieve the degree of graduation as specified.
4.11 How to create the looks in the range
Ref:
Step by steps
Use the handouts to reiterate the cutting principles:
how the factors within the range affect the haircut
•the importance of applying the correct degree of
tension
•how and why to use the cutting techniques to
achieve the looks in the range
•how to create and follow a guideline to achieve the
looks within the range
•how the angle at which the hair is held will affect the
weight distribution, balance and degree of
graduation of the cut
•the importance of:
•working with the natural fall of the hair
•crosschecking the balance and accuracy of cut.
Aftercare advice and communication
4.12 The importance of regular cuts and the
recommended time interval between cuts
4.13 How to give effective advice and
recommendations to clients
© Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
Page 13 - Unit GH12 - Session 4.
Session 4
GH12
Remind the learners that hair grows at around 1.25cm
(1/2inch) a month, so after six to eight weeks the
haircut will start to look ‘grown out’. Say that if the hair
is naturally thick and coarse, after six to eight week the
original haircut will lose its shape.
Tell the learners that hairdressers will advise a client to
return every six to eight weeks by outlining the benefits
of having regular haircuts:
•maintains the hairstyle
•maintains the manageability of the hairstyle at home
•maintains the condition of the hair.
Tell the learners that a hairdresser will explain to their
clients how to create the chosen look by demonstrating
the styling techniques and products they are using
during the service. Say this is useful to the client to
help them recreate the hairstyle at home.
Now complete the learner check for
session 4 to check learners
understanding.
Page 14 - Unit GH12 - Session 4.
© Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
Session 4
Cut hair using basic techniques
GH12
Learner Check
Session 4
1. Give the name of four basic face
shapes.
1. Round, oval, oblong, rectangular,
triangular, square, heart shaped.
2. State why you must consider the
elasticity of hair when carrying out
a cut.
2. Hair will stretch more when it is
wet, care must be taken to ensure
that the hair is not shorter than
the client requested.
3. State the effects of club cutting.
3. A blunt edge creates bulk.
4. State how to carry out freehand
cutting.
4. The hair is cut without being held
with either fingers or comb.
5. State the importance of
crosschecking the haircut.
5. To ensure that all sections blend.
6. State the shape of a haircut
where the hair is held 90o to the
scalp and cut to the same length
all over the head.
6. Uniform layer.
7. State the shape of haircut where
the hair is shorter on the
perimeter and longer on the inside
lengths.
7. Graduation.
8. Explain the ‘natural fall’ of hair.
8. The direction the hair grows or
lies on the head.
Se
© Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
Page 15 - Unit GH12 - Session 4.
Session 4
Page 16 - Unit GH12 - Session 4.
GH12
© Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
Session 4
Cutting techniques
GH12
Trainer Summary
4.1How the factors in the range can affect the
way hair is cut
•hair density – hair may be too sparse
or too abundant
•hair texture – hair may be too coarse or too fine
for the required style
•hair growth patterns – may force them to change
the choice of haircut or choice of tools
•Facial and head shape – the haircut should be
chosen to flatter the shape of the face and head
•Hair growth patterns – the growth patterns may
restrict the choice of hair style or cut
•hair elasticity – they will have to adjust the
degree of tension applied according to:
•the elasticity – hair will stretch more when the
hair is wet, therefore, care must be taken with
the amount of tension that is being used when
the hair is cut.
4.2Why it is important to check the hair before
and after shampooing prior to cutting
4.3The importance of consulting with the client
throughout the cutting process
Remind learners that all these must be checked on dry
hair:
• hair texture
• hair density
• hair type
• hair growth patterns
• signs of disease or disorder
• signs of infection or infestation
• piercings
Following the shampoo, the following should
be checked
• natural partings
• elasticity
•natural movement in the hair
© Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
Page 17 - Unit GH12 - Session 4.
Session 4
GH12
Remind learners that the consultation should continue
for the following reasons:
•Accurately establishing the client’s requirements
• Providing accurate information to the client
•Checking the progress of the cut to meet client
requirements
•Applying tension according to the hair’s elasticity
4.4The importance of applying the correct
degree of tension to the hair when cutting
Remind learners about the properties of elasticity of
the hair and to ensure that the hair is not cut
too short.
4.5How and when to use club cutting, freehand
and scissor over comb cutting techniques
Remind learners how and when to use the listed
techniques.
4.6The reasons for establishing and following
guidelines
4.8 The importance of cross checking the cut
• Deciding on the length and shape of the cut
• To help the methodical progression of the cut
• To help achieve accuracy of the cut
•Using horizontal and vertical sections to crosscheck the cut
4.7How to create and follow a guideline for a
one length, uniform layer, short graduation
and long graduation looks
Remind learners of the demonstration that was carried
out for creating and following guidelines.
4.9The importance of considering weight
distribution and working with the natural fall
of the hair
Page 18 - Unit GH12 - Session 4.
© Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
Session 4
GH12
4.10How the angle at which the hair is held will
affect the weight distribution, balance and
degree of the graduated cut
• Weight distribution
• Natural fall of the hair
• Degrees of graduation
4.11 How to create the looks in the range
Remind learners of the cutting principles.
Aftercare advice and communication
4.12 The importance of regular cuts and the
recommended time interval between cuts
4.13 How to give effective advice and
recommendations to clients
Remind learners that hairdressers will advise a client
to return every six to eight weeks by outlining the
benefits of having regular haircuts.
Remind learners that hairdressers make a point of
giving effective advice and recommendations as they
work.
© Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
Page 19 - Unit GH12 - Session 4.
Session 4
GH12
Cutting techniques
Key/Core Skills Opportunities
There will be an opportunity to promote discussion
when covering:
•
Page 20 - Unit GH12 - Session 4.
GH12.4.1 The most suitable style plates for
different head/face shapes
© Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.