Historic Huntsville Quarterly of L o c a l A r c h it e c t u r e a n d P r e s e r v a t io n Cotton Hill C otton Hill, F ebruary 2004. Photograph by Lakin Boyd. V olu m e 31, N u m bers 1-2 , S p r in g /Su m m er 2005 S ix D o l l a r s Historic Huntsville Quarterly o f L o c a l A r c h it e c t u r e a n d P r e s e r v a tio n V olum e 3 1, N u m bers 1-2 , S p r in g /S u m m er 2005 Contents 4 From the Executive D irector A 6 nnette P h i l p o ’t Preservation Effort Revives a H ouse and Inspires a Fam ily Gathering L y n n Jo n e s 9 C otton Hill: A Rediscovered Treasure L a k in Boyd 22 Go Slow, D o It Right: R estoration Progress at C otton H ill Pa t r i c i a H . R y a n 25 Luke M atthews o f C otton H ill W 35 illiam J. S t u b n o , Jr . Luke M atthews in M adison C ounty Lin d a Bayek A llen ISSN 10 7 4 -5 6 7 X 2 | C o n trib u to rs Contributors L inda Bayer A llen has been researching a n d w ritin g ab o u t H u n tsv ille’s a rc h ite c tu r al p ast in te rm itte n tly for th irty years. She served as ed ito r o f th e H isto ric H u n tsv ille Q uarterly for five years a n d is re tire d fro m th e C ity o f H u n tsv ille P lan n in g D e p a rtm e n t. L akin Boyd is a retire d a rt a n d a rt h isto ry professor, presen tly teac h in g as a n a d ju n c t professor at C a lh o u n C o m m u n ity College. Lynn Jones, lo ng-tim e F o u n d atio n m em b er a n d fo rm er officer a n d b o a rd m em ber, is o ne o f th e ed ito rs o f th e Quarterly. A n n ette P h ilp o ’t is executive d ire c to r o f th e H isto ric H u n tsv ille F o u n d atio n . She received h er m a ste r’s degree from th e U niversity o f A labam a in H u n tsv ille a n d has b een active in h isto ric p reserv atio n o n a local, state, an d n atio n al level for m o re th a n tw en ty years. Patricia H . Ryan is th e a u th o r o f N orthern Dollars fo r H untsville Spindles a n d th e ed ito r o f Cease N o t to T h in k o f M e, The Steele Fam ily Letters. She was th e p icto rial research er for H untsville, A C ity o f N ew Beginnings. W illia m J. Stubno, Jr., is th e C o m m a n d H isto ria n at th e U.S. A rm y O rd n an c e M u n itio n s a n d E lectronics M a in ten an ce School, located at R edstone A rsenal, A labam a. In a d d itio n to th e duties o f th a t p o sitio n , he specializes in th e research a n d d atin g o f old houses, especially ones b u ilt p rio r to th e C ivil W ar. H e also serves as an advisor to th e A labam a H isto rical C o m m ission. E ditors for th is issue o f th e Q uarterly w ere L inda A llen, D iane Ellis, Lynn Jones, an d Patricia Ryan. C o n trib u to rs | 3 A ckn ow ledgm en ts T he editors o f th e Q uarterly w ish to th a n k th e follow ing people: C ecil A rm strong, ow n er o f C o tto n H ill, for his h o sp ita lity in allow ing d escen d an ts o f Luke M atthew s to to u r th e ir an c estra l hom e. W ayne K uykendall, th e p re se rv a tio n ist a n d b u ild e r in charge o f th e resto ra tio n o f C o tto n H ill, w ho p o in te d o u t m a n y u n iq u e a rc h ite c tu ra l featu res o f th e ho u se an d clues uncovered d u rin g th e re sto ra tio n process, a n d ex p lain ed in d etail th e c h a l lenges involved in th e p ro ject an d th e re sto ratio n m e th o d s b ein g em ployed. Fam ily m em bers h a d also expressed an in te re st in to u rin g som e o f th e hom es in H untsville th a t w ere once o w n ed a n d occu p ied by Luke M atth ew s a n d o th e r fam ily m em bers after th ey left C o tto n H ill. T h a n k s to th e follow ing people w ho graciously o pened th e ir hom es to us th a t afte rn o o n : Mr. and M rs. G ene Sapp, 528 A dam s Street Frank N ola, 601 F ra n k lin Street Mr. and Mrs. W alter Johnson, 2409 D a iry Lane Jean Berry, led th e to u r o f C e d a rh u rst, 10 N o rth a m p to n D rive, now o w ned by th e C e d a rh u rst H om e O w n ers A ssociation 4 | From th e Execu tive D irector From the Executive Director A nnette P h i l p o ’t As lo ng-tim e H H F m em bers well know , since 1974 th e F o u n d atio n h as w orked to preserve arch ite c tu ra lly an d histo rically significant sites a n d stru c tu re s in H u n tsv ille an d M ad iso n C ounty. W h a t’s p robably n o t w ell-know n is th a t the F o u n d atio n began its w ork fo u r years p rio r to th e lan d m ark P enn C e n tra l decision, w hich upheld preserv atio n law o n th e local level, an d sixteen years before th e State o f A labam a en acted statew ide enab lin g legislation th a t allows m u n ic ip a lities to establish laws to p ro te c t th e ir histo ric resources. W e can pat ourselves on th e back for b eing ahead o f th e curve early on reg ard in g h isto ric preserv atio n . O ver tim e, th e F o u n d a tio n ’s focus has ex p an d ed fro m th e resto ratio n o f p ro m in e n t la n d m a rk s an d d istric ts to projects diverse in scope an d p a rtn e rsh ip , p arallelin g th e n atio n al p reserv atio n m ovem ent. P reservation o f an early p la n ta tio n house such as C o tto n H ill, th e subject o f th is Quarterly, like re sto ratio n o f resid en tial an d co m m ercial histo ric d istric ts, cel ebrates o u r heritage a n d conserves o u r resources. M oreover, it’s now well u n d e r sto o d by m ost cities a n d co u n ties th a t p reserv atio n serves as a catalyst for econom ic gro w th . C o m m u n ities th a t safeguard th e ir histo ric assets experience im p ro v em en t in m any areas o f c o m m u n ity life. Since H istoric H untsv ille F o u n d atio n was form ed, an array o f laws a n d p re se r vation p ro g ram s have been established th a t p rovide b e tte r d ire ctio n an d s u p p o rt for local p ro g ra m s such as ours. In June 2005, Gale N o rto n , th e S ecretary o f th e Interior, d esignated tw en ty -fo u r new places in A m erica for inclusion in the “Preserve A m erica” p ro g ram . S u p p o rted by th e c u rre n t a d m in istra tio n , th is p ro g ram was designed to foster local involvem ent in th e preserv atio n o f A m erica’s “cu ltu ra l, n a tu ra l an d h eritag e” resources. T hese visual legacies o f o u r past provide a clearer u n d e rsta n d in g for citizens a n d visitors o f th e in d iv id u als, influences, an d forces th a t shape th e p resen t a n d influence th e fu tu re. From th e E xecutive D irector | 5 M any resources help th e F o u n d a tio n resp o n d to a n d w o rk w ith its m em b ersh ip an d p artn e rs. P ro g ram s available to aid in p reserv atio n include th e N atio n al R egister o f H isto ric Places, w hich designates p ro p e rtie s deem ed w o rth y o f n atio n al significance; T he H isto ric A rtists’ H om es a n d S tudios p ro g ra m , designed to help A m erican h isto ric sites th a t have c o n n e c tio n s to a rt; C e n tu ry F arm s, w hich desig nates farm s in A lab am a th a t have been cu ltiv ated by th e sam e fam ily for 100 years o r m ore; an d T he A labam a C em etery A lliance, w hich pro v id es ed u catio n for th e preserv atio n o f A lab am a’s cem eteries. H istoric preserv atio n is always ch an g in g a n d never finished. G roups such as the H istoric H u n tsv ille F o u n d atio n , a n d in d iv id u als such as C ecil A rm stro n g , C o tto n H ill’s ow ner, a n d W ayne K uykendall, its restorer, are key to saving th e p ast for th e fu tu re. 6 | P reservatio n Effort R evives a H ouse Preservation Effort Revives a House and Inspires a Family Gathering L y n n Jo n e s Last year, w hen th e Q uarterly’s ed ito rs learn ed th a t C o tto n H ill, an an teb e llu m p la n ta tio n house, was b eing restored, we im m ed iately w an ted to investigate. T he a rc h ite c tu ra l significance o f C o tto n H ill, a long neglected a n d a lm o st forg o tten ru ra l L im estone C o u n ty jewel, h a d b een reco g n ized by th e H isto ric A m erican B uildings Survey (HABS) te a m in th e 1930s a n d w as p h o to g ra p h e d by th e survey in 1935 as p a rt o f th e A labam a collection. A lready m o re th a n 100 years o ld by th a t tim e, th e house, th o u g h still occupied, ap p eared in th e p h o to g rap h s to be in a very d ilap id ated co n d itio n . C o tto n H ill’s c u rre n t re sto ratio n is a cause for celebration. A ccording to Bob G am ble, senior a rc h ite c tu ra l h isto ria n w ith th e A labam a H isto ric a l C o m m issio n , th e A labam a HABS co llection is one o f th e largest o f all th e states’ collections. Sadly, due to ab an d o n m e n t, neglect, v an d alism , a n d o th e r causes, by 1985, 40 p ercen t o f th e d o c u m en ted stru c tu re s h ad d isap p eared . T oday th a t percentage w ould be h ig h er still. R esearchers L ak in Boyd, Bill S tubno, Jr., a n d L inda Bayer A llen follow ed th e tra il o f Luke M atthew s, th e p resu m ed b u ild e r o f C o tto n H ill, fro m V irginia to L im estone C o u n ty a n d u ltim ately to M ad iso n C ounty, w here, a fter th e C ivil W ar, he a n d his large fam ily w o u ld weave them selves in to th e fabric o f H u n tsv ille. T h e tra il proved in terestin g , a n d to o u r su rp rise, it also led to a M atthew s fam ily re u n io n at C o tto n H ill in June, as well as a to u r o f som e o f th e p ro m in e n t hom es in H u n tsv ille th a t w ere once o w ned o r occu p ied by m em b ers of th e fam ily. Luke M atthew s o f C am p b ell C ounty, V irginia, was in his m id -tw en ties w hen he m ig rated to L im estone C o u n ty ab o u t 1822 w ith his m o th e r an d several siblings. His father, Luke M atth ew s, Sr., h ad died th e previous year, leaving a sizeable estate to his w ife a n d ch ild ren . A p p aren tly Luke was one o f m an y m ig ra n ts w ho at th e tim e w as lu red from m ore settled regions by th e possibilities o f accu m u latin g g reater P reserv atio n Effort R evives a H ouse | 7 w ealth in th e fro n tie r states o f A lab am a a n d M ississippi, w ith th e ir cheap fertile lan d an d new o p p o rtu n itie s for ad ven tu re. W ritin g in A H istory o f M adison C ounty a nd Incidentally o f N o rth A la b a m a 1732-1840, Judge T h o m a s Jones Taylor said, “It a p p eared as if all V irg in ia w as m o v in g S o u th w ard .” (p.45) A rch itectu ral h isto ry w rite r a n d p u b lish er M ills Lane, in h is b o o k A rchitecture o f the O ld South: M ississippi & A la b a m a , describes th e m ig ra tio n th is way: M any V irginians made their way to northern and central Alabam a by way o f Tennessee and Kentucky. T hough th ey were not the m ost nu m erous settlers, the V irgin ian s, because o f their w ealth, education and prom inence, m ade contributions to Alabam a’s early architecture far greater than their num bers. In 1834 H enry W atson, a N ew England law yer, w rote from Greensboro, Alabama: ‘The cou n try about is now settled by em igrants from V irginia and the C arolin as... [and] is thus filled w ith m uch more intelligence than you w ould have expected.’ (pp. 37 & 41) T he story o f C o tto n H ill illu strates th e b len d o f m y stery a n d discovery th a t o ften accom panies h isto ric p rese rv a tio n pro jects, stim u la tin g th e in te rest o f w orkers an d researchers an d , we hope, readers as well. Sources M ills Lane, Architecture o f the O ld South: M ississippi & A la b a m a (N ew York: A bbeville Press, 1989). Judge T h o m as Jones Taylor, A H istory o f M adison C ou n ty a n d Incidentally o f N orth A labam a 1732-1840, eds., W. Stanley H oole a n d A ddie S. H oole (U niversity: C o nfederate P u b lish in g C om pany, 1976). Cotton Hill in 1981; the two dorm ers were added after 1935 and have since been removed. Photograph by H arvie Jones, F.A.I.A., 1981. Courtesy A rchitectural Collection o f H arvie P. Jones, F.A.I.A., D epartm ent o f A rchives/Special Collections, M . Louis Salm on Library, University o f A labam a in H untsville, H untsville, A labam a C otton Hill: A R ed iscovered T reasure | 9 Cotton Hill: A Rediscovered Treasure La k in B o y d In 2001, C ecil A rm stro n g b o u g h t C o tto n H ill, a tw o -sto ry Federal b rick h o u se th a t w ould look m o re at h o m e in S ou th sid e V irg in ia th a n ato p a k n o ll in so u th e a st ern L im estone C ounty. T he h o u se is located ju s t east o f A thens, facing so u th a n d overlooking a long drivew ay th a t p ro ceed s th ro u g h a stately p e ca n grove to B row n’s F erry R oad. It is s u rro u n d e d by som e o f th e best co tto n la n d in L im estone C ounty. O ne o f the m o st arc h ite c tu ra lly sign ifican t an te b e llu m h o u ses re m a in in g in the county, C o tto n H ill w as p h o to g ra p h e d in 1935 as p a rt o f th e H isto ric A m erican B uildings Survey (H ABS). By th e tim e C ecil A rm stro n g b o u g h t th e pro p erty , C o tto n H ill need ed a com p lete resto ra tio n . To su p erv ise w hat w ould be an o n g o ing project to revive th e p ro p erty , th e o w n er h ire d tw o m a ster craftsm en , W ayne K uykendall, a local p reserv atio n ist, a n d Paul T ennison. B ackground C o tto n H ill w as c o n stru c te d n e a r th e en d o f th e F ederal p e rio d o f arch ite c tu re , an d it displays the ch aracteristics o f th a t p e rio d as th e y w ere tra n sp la n te d fro m V irg in ia by settlers m ov in g in to th e T ennessee River Valley. W ith a few n o tab le exceptions, upscale F ederal houses c o n stru c te d in N o rth A lab am a d u rin g th e first few decades o f the 19th c e n tu ry re ta in e d th e G eo rg ian C o lo n ial ho u se fo rm th a t h ad b eco m e tra d itio n a l in th e U n ited States d u rin g th e 18th cen tu ry , th a t is, a re c ta n g u la r box, tw o stories h ig h an d one o r tw o ro o m s deep, w ith th re e or five sy m m etrically placed o p enings across th e facade o n each level. In th e so u th e rn version, ch im n ey s w ere u sually located o n th e side w alls, a n d th e w hole w as co m p leted w ith a side gable ro o f lacking d o rm ers. T he layout o f such h ouses o fte n featu red a c e n tra l h a ll w ay w ith tw o o r fo u r ro o m s p e r floor, w ith th e second floor echoing th e first floor a rran g em en t. T h e F ederal label is so m etim es u sed sy n o n y m o u sly w ith th e te rm s A dam style o r io | C otton Hill: A R ed iscovered Treasure A dam esque, a late-1 8 th -c en tu ry style th a t o rig in ated in E ngland w ith th e b ro th ers R o b ert a n d Jam es A dam , w hose designs w ere d istin g u ish e d by a taste for lig h ter a n d m o re delicate details th a n w ere c o m m o n in G eorgian C olonial c o n stru c tio n . T he A d am style relied on atte n u a te d co lu m n s, a n d curved, arched a n d elliptical designs for b o th ro o m shapes a n d th e ir decor. In A m erica, exam ples o f fu ll-b lo w n A dam esq u e houses w ere erected in th e m ajo r cities an d seap o rts; b u t in ru ra l areas, houses te n d e d to retain th e boxy, rig h t-an g led spaces o f th e p revious century, w hich co u ld be dressed u p w ith a few A dam esque d etails such as fan lig h ts a n d side lights at th e fro n t door, classical swags, reed in g a n d su n b u rst p a tte rn s on m a n te l pieces, d o o r a n d w in d o w m oldings, an d m olded ch air rails. W h ile th e A d am esque style w as w idely accepted in th e U n ited States, it ap p eared p rim a rily as in te rio r d e tails a n d as enlarged b u t refined in te rp re ta tio n s o f G eorgian features. T he m ajo rity o f stylish early -1 9 th -cen tu ry houses, especially in ru ra l areas, d id n o t em brace th e fu ll A dam style a n d are m o re accurately identified as Federal to d istin g u ish th e m fro m th o se stru c tu re s th a t d id m o re closely follow th e English m odels. C o tto n H ill nicely illustrates how th e Federal style in teg rated th e boxy G eo rg ian shapes a n d stric t sy m m etry o f arra n g e m en t w ith A dam esque fanlights, m an telp iec es o f delicate p ro p o rtio n s deco rated w ith classical p a tte rn s, a n d a p ro jectin g an d p e d im e n te d P allad ian p o rtic o (now m issing) to achieve a d istin ctiv e new a rc h ite c tu r a l style. T h e c o n stru c tio n o f C o tto n H ill is a ttrib u te d to W illiam P arh am (b o rn 1792), a m aster cra ftsm a n an d b uilder, w ho im m ig rated to L im estone C o u n ty from so u th e rn V irg in ia an d settled in th e C am b rid g e c o m m u n ity . Little is know n ab o u t P a rh am o th e r th a n th a t he w orked as a b uilder, was m a rrie d fo u r tim es, an d fath ered m an y ch ild ren . A ccording to C h ris E dw ards a n d Faye A xford in The Lure a n d Lore o f Lim estone C ounty, he b u ilt C o tto n H ill in th e early 1830s, a lth o u g h w h eth er he was responsible for th e brick w o rk as well as th e c a rp e n try rem ain s u n clear. A brick dated 1824, recently fo u n d d u rin g rep air o f th e u p stairs west fireplace, m ig h t indicate an earlier date, b u t no o th e r evidence has yet been fo u n d to su p p o rt C otton Hill: A R ed iscovered Treasure | u th a t possibility. P a rh a m ’s ow n h o u se, located nearby, w as o f fram e c o n stru c tio n a n d o f m u ch less im p o sin g design th a n C o tto n H ill a n d th e o th e r stately brick houses th a t have been a ttrib u te d to h im , o n ly one o f w hich, th e n earb y John G irau lt G am ble house, is ex tan t. T he o rig in al ow n er o f C o tto n H ill w as Luke M atth ew s (1796-1875), w ho also e m i grated fro m so u th e rn V irg in ia in th e early years o f th e 19th c e n tu ry a n d p u rch ased acreage in th e C am b rid g e area close to o th e r tra n sp la n te d V irg in ian s. Sam uel M atthew s, one o f L uke’s b ro th e rs, also cam e so u th a n d b u ilt a su b stan tia l house closer to the river before relo catin g to H u n tsv ille. Luke o p era ted a th o u sa n d -ac re c o tto n p la n tatio n o f w hich C o tto n H ill w as th e center. Luke m a rrie d tw ice, b o th tim es to w om en descen d ed fro m p ro m in e n t V irg in ia fam ilies, a n d h ad twelve su rv iv in g ch ild ren , m an y o f w h o m m a rrie d into H u n tsv ille fam ilies. N o t long after his second m arriag e, he left C o tto n H ill a n d m oved to O ak en d ale, his p lan tatio n in M adison C ounty, before even tu ally se ttlin g in H u n tsv ille o n A dam s Street in a house ow ned by his b ro th e r-in -la w S am uel Peete. In 1868 Luke p u rch ased th e ho u se on M cC lung A venue w here he resid ed u n til his d e a th seven years later. E xterior C o tto n H ill as o rig in a lly c o n stru c te d w as a tw o -sto ry b rick h o u se w ith a full b a se m ent, a side-gabled roof, in te rio r en d ch im n ey s, a n d a c e n tra l h all p lan. It is called a five-bay house because th e re are five o p en in g s across th e facade o n each level. T he p resen t ro o f cornice a n d fascia b o a rd s o n th e facade a n d back are n o t o rig in al. T h ey w ere p ro bably replaced w hen th e h o u se lost its o rig in al tw o -sto ry P a lla d ia n p o rch o r w hen th e ro o f w as replaced. A m id -2 0 th -c e n tu ry o w n er ad d ed tw o ro o f d o rm e rs b u t th ey have since b een rem oved. T h e HABS p h o to g ra p h o f th e back o f th e h o u se in d icates th e “g h o st” o f a o n e -sto ry p o rch th a t covered th e d o uble d o o rs at th e back o f th e e n tran c e h a ll a n d co n n e c ted th e d o o r o f th e d in in g c h am b e r to a service ell. U n doubtedly, th is ell h o u se d th e o rig in al k itchen, as th e one b a sem en t fireplace in th e w est b a sem en t c h a m b e r isn ’t 12 | C o tto n Hill: A R ed iscovered Treasure Floor plan o f C otton H ill as built. Drawings by H arvie Jones, F.A.I.A., 1981. Courtesy A rchitectural Collection o f H arvie P. Jones, University o f A labam a in H untsville C otton Hill: A R ed iscovered Treasure | 13 Cotton H ill in 1935 show ing the north-facing rear and east side elevations. H istoric A m erican Buildings Survey, A lex Busli, photographer, M ay 21, 1935 a cooking fireplace, a n d th e re is o n ly one b a se m e n t w in d o w o n th e w est e n d o f th e back w all, suggesting th e p ra c tic a lity o f th e bu ild er. W hy place a b ase m en t w in d o w u n d e r a porch? A o n e -sto ry fra m e ro o m w as c o n stru c te d a fte r th e d ate o f th e HABS p h o to , b u t it has been replaced by a later o w n er w ith a tw o -sto ry b rick ell th a t is visible in th e 2004 p h o to g rap h th a t ap p ears o n th e cover. A rc h ite c tu ra l evidence show s th a t C o tto n H ill w as c o n stru c te d all-of-a-piece, w hereas m an y o f th e area’s su rv iv in g F ed eral-p erio d h ouses sta rte d w ith ju s t tw o room s. T hese sta rte r houses h a d one ro o m o n each floor, a n d v ario u s later ad d itio n s increased th e m to th e ir p resen t size. T h u s, C o tto n H ill m u st have been u n u su a lly am b itio u s for fro n tie r L im estone C o u n ty in its in itia l c o n cep tio n a n d w as c e rta in ly 14 | C otton Hill:A R ed iscovered Treasure am b itio u s in th e refin e m e n t a n d ex ten t o f its w oodw ork. T he h o u se w as o riginally en tered th ro u g h a p a ir o f six-panel d o o rs set in a deep paneled reveal cro w n ed w ith a fanlight. Physical an d h isto rical d o c u m e n ta tio n strongly su p p o rt th e o rig in al p res ence o f a double-tier, p e d i m en ted p o rtic o sheltering b o th th e m a in en tran ce Probable design o f C otton H ill’s original fr o n t porch. D raw ing by H arvie Jones, F.A.I.A., 1981. Courtesy A rchitectural Collection o f H arvie P. Jones, University o f A labam a in H untsville a n d th e single d o o r on th e floor above it, w hich also is cro w n ed by an arch ed tra n so m . Such p orches w ere in sp ire d by th e w ork o f th e Italian R enaissance a rch itect A n d rea Palladio (15081580), w hose designs were p o p u la riz e d in E n g lan d by Inigo Jones in th e 1720s a n d in clu d ed th e p ro jectin g tw o -sto ry p o rch a n d th e th re e -p a rt P allad ian w indow , w hich w ere w idely adopted in th e U n ited States w here they b ecam e associated w ith th e Federal style. At C o tto n H ill, existing b rick pilasters flan k in g th e fro n t en tran ces, as well as traces o f w hite p a in t o n th e w all betw een th e p ilasters, p rovide evidence o f th e d im en sio n s o f th e p o rtico , since it was tra d itio n a l to p a in t w hite b o th the p o rtico an d th a t p o rtio n o f th e w all sheltered by it. T he c u rre n t ow ner in ten d s to replace th e p o rch as closely as possible to w hat is believed to be th e orig in al co n fig u ratio n . C o tto n H ill’s brickw ork is exceptional. T h e fro n t is laid in Flem ish b o n d w ith co m m o n b o n d used on the sides a n d rear, w hich was th e Federal p ractice. A holdover fro m G eorgian tra d itio n is evidenced by a convex m olded b rick w ater table th a t C otton Hill: A R ed iscovered Treasure | 15 p rovides an elegant tra n sitio n from th e m a in w all to th e th ick e r fo u n d a tio n w all. T apered lintel bricks, as well as th e arch e d bricks over th e fro n t e n try a n d th e d o o r above it, are gauged an d ru b b ed . T he d o u b le-h u n g sash w indow s w ith twelve p an es (o r lights) in each sash (12/12) th a t w ere used o n th e first floor an d th e 12/8 sash c o n fig u ratio n used o n th e second (rem oved by a p rev io u s ow ner) have been replaced F ront entry fa n lig h t and brickwork o f C otton H ill; doo w ith exact re p ro d u c tio n s by L arry way infill is not original. Photograph by H arvie Jones, Jaynes, w ho d id m u ch o f th e re sto ra F.A.I.A., 1981. Courtesy A rchitectural Collection o f H arvie P. Jones, University o f A labam a in H untsville tio n w ork o n Belle M o n t in C o lb ert C ounty. Belle M o n t (ca. 1828) dates from the sam e p erio d as C o tto n H ill, p ro b ab ly shares a V irg in ia p rovenance, an d displays a fine (restored) exam ple o f a P allad ian d o u b le p o rtico . T he w ooden elem ents o f C o tto n H ill ex h ib it pegged m o rtise a n d ten o n jo in ts except in th e attic w here th e re is an u n u su a l ridge b o a rd ra th e r th a n th e u su al lap p ed an d pegged ridge jo in t. A ccording to p reserv atio n arch ite c t H arv ie Jones, o n ly th is house a n d th e now d em o lish ed Kelly h o u se (pre-1830) in M ad iso n C o u n ty have been fo u n d to have a ridge b o a rd . T h e p resen t ro o f deck is 2 0 th -c e n tu ry p in e on 1 9 th -cen tu ry p it-saw n (h an d -saw n ) fra m in g m em b ers. T h e o rig in al ro o f deck w ould have been c o n stru c te d o f 12-inch to 24 -in ch w ide slab p lan k s spaced 2 to 6 inches ap a rt; h a n d sp lit a n d d ra w k n ife-sm o o th e d w o o d en shingles w o u ld have been n ailed to these. T h e nails used in C o tto n H ill are sq u a re -c u t o f v ario u s sizes m ade by m ach in e; by th e late 1700s, m o st c u t n ails were m ade by e ith e r w ater- o r steam pow ered m achines. 16 | C otton Hill: A R ed iscovered Treasure C o tto n H ill o rig in ally h a d ex terio r b lin d s, n o t sh u tters as we call th e m today. B linds have blades w ith o p e n ings betw een th em , w hereas sh u tters are so lid -p an eled to exclude light a n d a ir w hen closed an d w ere used p rim a rily o n com m ercial b u ild in g s for secu rity p u rp o ses. In co ntracts o f th e early 19th-century , b lin d s are referred to as “V enetian b lin d s” a n d fu n c tio n e d to block th e su n an d Cotton H ill’s convex m olded brick w ater table. d isco u rag e th e e n try o f insects w ith Photograph b y Lakin Boyd, 2004 o u t b lo ck in g cooling breezes. Blinds also pro v id ed secu rity to a h o u se w ith open w indow s. In th e 1935 HABS p h o to g rap h s o f th e ho u se th e h ard w are for th e b lin d s can be seen o n som e o f th e w indow s. Interior T h e glo ry o f C o tto n H ill is its in te rio r w oodw ork, w hich is alm o st com pletely in tact. T he e n try h all reta in s its o rig in al stairs, ch air-rails, baseb o ard s, flooring a n d in te rio r d o o rs; only th e fro n t e n try d o o rs are m issing. O ne o f these o rig in al e n try d o o rs, fo u n d in th e b asem en t, w ill serve as a m o d el for th e m issing ex terio r doors, in clu d in g th e one th a t led to th e second floor p o rtico . T he new el po sts o f th e stairs are b ea u tifu lly tu rn e d , an d th e sta ir rail is ro u g h ly circ u lar in cross sectio n to fit th e h a n d . T he sta ir balu sters are sm all a n d re c ta n g u la r in cross-section, a feature th a t is co m m o n to m an y su rv iv in g houses o f th e p e rio d in th is area. O ne u n u su a l feature is th e lan d in g balu sters th a t pass th ro u g h notches cu t in th e flo o rb o ard o f th e second floor hall. T he edges o f th e stair risers are deco rated w ith scroll brackets. D oors o n th e n o rth w all th a t o pened to th e back p o rch are orig in al, as is th e d o o r u n d e r th e stairs th a t opens to th e b asem ent. All w alls, except th o se in th e b asem en t, a n d all ceilings, C otton Hill: A R ed iscovered tre a su re | 17 in clu d in g th o se in th e b asem en t, were p lastered . L aths (strip s o f w ood) were n ailed to ceiling joists to provide g ro u n d w o rk for th e plaster. T he stairs are b oxed a n d plastered in th is m a n ner. T h e d o o r in to th e p a rlo r is cen tered o n th e east w all o f th e e n try hall. T he p a rlo r is s u rro u n d e d by a th ree-p iece c h a ir-ra il like th e ones in all th e ro o m s except th o se in th e basem ent. F luting a n d rep eated reverse slan ted reed in g deco rate th e m an tel, as th e p h o to illu strates. T he splayed w in d o w jam b s an d heads are also reed ed in th is room . N o cro w n m o ld in g at th e to p o f th e w alls is fo u n d in C o tto n H ill, n o r in any k n o w n F ed eral-p erio d house in th is Stairs on west side o f en try hall. H istoric A m erican B uildings Survey, A lex Bush, photographer, M ay 21, 1935 area. T he b aseb o ard s in th e h o u se have no sm all shoe m olds at th e floor since shoe m olds were a later device. D u rin g th e Federal p erio d , th e b ase b o a rd b o tto m s w ere scrib ed to fit any irre g u larities at th e floor, creatin g a m u ch n e ate r d etail th a n tack e d -o n shoe m o ld in g . A d o o r at th e b o tto m o f th e stairs o p en s to th e d in in g cham ber. T h is ro o m has b u ilt-in c u p b o ard s on eith er side o f th e chim ney. T hese c u p b o a rd s are o rig in al a n d fitted w ith shelves an d have never been p a in te d o n th e inside. T h e d o o rs are m ade like F ed eral-p erio d fu rn itu re , w ith th e beveled faces o f th e p an el facing inside. The to p s o f th e c u p b o ard s are d eco rated w ith reed in g m ade o f sep arate g lu ed -in panels 18 | C otton Hill: A R ed iscovered Treasure sim ilar to d eco ratio n in th e 1819 W eeden H o u se in H u n tsv ille. T he b o tto m th ird o f th e c u p b o ard on the n o rth side o f th e ch im n e y is boxed to create h ead ro o m for th e ex terio r basem en t door. T he m antel in th is ro o m is th e m o st elaborate in th e house. It is d eco rated w ith a reeded su n b u rst a n d “i ” d entils, o r n am e n ts com posed o f a row o f d en tils w ith a pierced hole above, th u s sim u latin g in ap p earan ce th e letter “ i,” p rim a rily a F ed eral-p erio d m otif. W in d o w jam bs are splayed a n d paneled in th is ro o m . O n th e n o rth w all a d o o r led to th e o rig in al dependency. T he floors th ro u g h o u t th e ho u se are six-inch h e a rt p in e laid d irectly on th e floor joists w ith o u t a su b floor. T he flo o rb o ard s have to n g u e-an d -g ro o v e jo in ts a n d a p p ear to have never b een v arn ish e d o r scru b b ed w ith lye w ater to a gray finish like m o st floors o f early 1 9 th -cen tu ry houses. P rio r to th e C ivil W ar, w ooden Landing balusters th a t pass through notches cut in the floorboard o f the second-floor hall are an unusual floors w ere perio d ically scru b b ed to keep th e m a feature. Photograph by H arvie Jones, lig h t bleached color. V arn ish in g w as a post-C iv il W ar F.A.I.A., 1981. C ourtesy A rchitectural fashion. Collection o f H arvie P. Jones, University o f A labam a in H untsville T he flo o rin g w as m echan ically saw n by w ater-pow ered sash saws, as was all o f th e w ood except for th e large fra m in g m em b ers, such as floor joists, w hich w ere ax-hew n a n d pit-saw n. Pat Jones w rites in a 1935 H untsville Tim es article on th e Rowe hom e, as C o tto n H ill was th e n k n o w n , th a t th e lu m b er for th e b u ild in g was p ro v id ed by Rev. Jam es Rowe, w ho o p erated a saw m ill in M ad iso n C ounty. Rev. Rowe was an early c ircu it rid e r a n d was for a tim e p asto r o f th e First M e th o d ist C h u rch in H untsv ille. O n M arch 1, 1879, his son A ndrew Jackson Rowe b o u g h t C o tto n H ill an d appro x im ately 200 acres fro m John B. M cC lellan, w ho h ad p u rch ased th e p lan tatio n from Luke M atthew s in 1873. C otton Hill: A R ed iscovered Treasure | 19 T h e seco n d -flo o r h all is lit by a w in d o w in th e n o rth w all a n d a fan lig h t over th e d o o r th a t o rig in ally o p en ed to th e seco n d -flo o r p o rtico . A d o o r in th e b oxed sta ir o n th e so u th wall leads to th e floored attic, w hich is lit by a p a ir o f fo u r-p a n e w indow s flan k in g each chim ney. T he east b e d ro o m has an o rig in al c u p b o a rd w ith shelves o n e ith e r side o f th e m an tel. T his m an tel, w h ich is sim ila r to th e one in th e parlor, still re tain e d its o rig in al black p a in t w hen p h o to g rap h e d for HABS in 1935. A ll o f th e u p sta irs w indow s have p lain splayed jam bs. In th e w est b e d ro o m th e m an tel is rem in isc e n t o f th e 1 8 th -cen tu ry G eo rg ian style ra th e r th a n A dam esque. F lan k in g th e m an tel on th e left is a n o th e r b u ilt-in cu p b o a rd , a n d o n th e rig h t, a w indow . D etail o f parlor m antel showing flittin g and reeding. Photograph by H arvie Jones, F.A.I.A., 1981. Courtesy T h ere are n o w indow s in th e n o rth w all, w hich indicates an in te n t o n th e p a rt o f th e ow ner to ad d a A rchitectural Collection o f H arvie tw o -sto ry ell at a later date. It was a c o m m o n p ractice P. Jones, University o f A labam a in to c o n stru c t h ouses in sections over tim e as fu n d s H untsville a n d /o r space needs increased, a practice th a t w as greatly facilitated by th e prevalence o f a m o re o r less sta n d a rd ho u se co n fig u ratio n . Future T he resto ratio n o f an old h o u se is a d a u n tin g a n d expensive task if it is d o n e c o r rectly. Fortunately, C o tto n H ill is b ein g resto red by an o w n er w ho u n d e rs ta n d s th e m e a n in g o f h isto ric p reserv atio n . T he h o u se w as graciously o p en ed to us to e n c o u r age o th e r p reserv atio n ists to c a rry o n in spite o f th e m an y p ro b lem s e n co u n te red d u rin g resto ratio n . Cecil A rm stro n g is aw are o f th e delicate b alan c e b etw een m a in ta in in g th e h isto ric in te g rity o f th e s tru c tu re a n d p ro v id in g th e n ecessary m o d e rn 20 | C o tto n Hill: A R ed iscovered Tr easu re M antel a nd fla n k in g cupboards in second-floor east room. Historic A m erican Buildings Survey, A le x Bush, photographer, M ay 21, 1935 conveniences th a t allow m a x im u m use by presen t a n d fu tu re ow ners. A spiring resto rers w ho share his ap p reciatio n for th e w ork o f earlier arch itects a n d b u ild ers sh o u ld be encouraged by C ecil A rm stro n g ’s c o n tin u in g efforts at L im estone C o u n ty ’s C o tto n H ill. C otton Hill: A R ed iscovered Treasure | 21 Sources A rch itectu ral C ollectio n o f H arv ie P. Jones, F.A.I.A., D e p a rtm e n t o f A rchives/ Special C ollections, M . L ouis S alm on L ibrary, U niv ersity o f A lab am a in H u n tsv ille, H untsville, A labam a. C h ris E dw ards a n d Faye A xford. The Lure a n d Lore o f Lim estone County. P o rtals Press, T uscaloosa, A labam a, 1978. pp. xi-xxix, 182-184. R obert G am ble. The A la b a m a Catalog. H istoric A m erican Buildings Survey. A G uide to the Early Architecture o f the State. T he U niversity o f A lab am a Press, 1987. pp. 3-106. H isto ric A m erican B uildings Survey. L ib rary o f C ongress W ash in g to n , D.C. Alex Bush, P hotographer, M ay 21, 1935. HABS, ALA, 42-A TH . V ,l-4. H arv ie Jones. Photograph Book 4, C otton H ill, Architectural Collection o f H arvie P. Jones, F.A.I.A. A rchives an d Special C o llectio n s, U niversity o f A labam a in H untsville. Pat Jones. The H untsville Times, H istoric A thens H omes. June 23, 1935. H isto ric S crapbook, Vol. 2 H eritage R oom , H u n tsv ille-M ad iso n C o u n ty Public Library. D etail show ing reeded sunburst and dentils on the d ining room m antel. Photograph by H arvie Jones, F.A.I.A., 1981. Courtesy Architectural Collection o f H arvie P. Jones, University o f A labam a in H untsville 22 I Go Slow, Do It Right Go Slow, Do It Right: Restoration Progress at Cotton Hill Pa t r i c i a H. Ryan D u rin g o u r June visit to C o tto n H ill, W ayne K uykendall n o ted som e o f th e re sto ra tio n steps th e team has tak e n to re tu rn th e h o u se to its fo rm er F ederal elegance. D espite a recent ad d itio n c o n ta in in g a k itch e n /fam ily ro o m a n d b e d ro o m s, Cecil A rm stro n g , th e ow ner, a n d W ayne K uykendall, a p reserv atio n ist a n d bu ild er, are c o m m itte d to preserv in g th e h o u se’s a rc h ite ctu ral in teg rity in m eticu lo u s detail. W ork has progressed over a b o u t a year a n d a half, w ith h o p es for p ro ject co m p le tio n in several years. W ayne, w ho has a “real jo b ,” can o n ly w ork o n C o tto n H ill in his spare tim e. T he re sto ratio n o f th e in te rio r is c o n tin u in g in v arious stages. W indow s, m illw ork, an d hard w are w ill be replicated to m atch th e o rig in al w here needed. T he w irin g w ill be r u n b e h in d th e b aseb o ard s to be inco n sp icu o u s. H e art p in e floors, trim , a n d d o o rs w ill be strip p ed . Split-system h eatin g a n d cooling u n its w ill be in stalled . In th e d in in g ro o m , th e w o o dw ork w ill be p ain te d its o rig in al d a rk g reen color. O ne fascin atin g d etail p o in ted o u t by W ayne was th e brick-sized w ood blocks th a t h ad been in stalled as p a rt o f th e o rig in al brick w o rk to p rovide places w here m illw ork, such as m an tels a n d b aseb o ard s, c o u ld be attach ed w ith o u t d a m ag in g th e bricks. U pstairs, atte n tio n to d etail is ex h ib ited m o st clearly in a b ed ro o m , th e on ly ro o m to be com pleted an d occupied. T he floor h ad been p a in te d a n d th e jo in ts cau lk e d by a p revious ow ner. To avoid san d in g a n d rem oving th e p a tin a a n d raised grain , the w ood was strip p e d a n d cleaned a b o u t fo u r tim es w ith tools a k in to brass to o th b rushes. It w as th e n bu ffed w ith o u t stain an d w axed. T he n ext m ajo r p roject is th e replacem ent o f th e tw o -sto ry p o rtico . By th e tim e HABS d o cu m e n te d th e stru c tu re w ith p h o to g rap h s in 1935, th e p o rtic o h ad been rem oved. A rch ite c tu ra l evidence reveals th a t such a p o rtico existed, an d th e ow ner w ould like to du plicate it as closely as possible. If anyone read in g th is know s of th e existence o f a p h o to g ra p h o f th e o rig in al p o rtico , please n o tify th e H istoric Go Slow, Do It Right | 23 H u n tsv ille F o u n d a tio n , 124 S outh Side Square, H u n tsv ille, A labam a 35801. If a p h o to g rap h o f th e p o rtic o is n o t fo u n d , th e rep lacem en t w ill be based o n research a n d physical e x a m in a tio n d o n e by th e late p reserv atio n a rch itect H arv ie Jones a n d R obert G am ble, sen io r a rc h ite c tu ra l h isto ria n w ith th e A lab am a H isto rical C o m m issio n . It w ill be sim ilar to th a t o f Belle M o n t n e a r T u scu m b ia in C o lb e rt C o u n ty a n d o th e r e x ta n t p erio d houses. Cecil Cecil A rm strong (right), ow ner o f C otton Hill, and a n d W ayne envision ro u n d c o lu m n s W ayne Kuykendall, restoration contractor. Photograph co n n e c ted by a th in b alu stra d e on by Ralph A llen th e u p p e r a n d low er levels. The o rig in al d o o r to th e u p sta irs p o rtic o w ill be replicated for use at th e low er level. O nce com pleted, C o tto n H ill, w ith its elegant facade a n d delicate in te rio r d etailin g , w ill p ro u d ly reflect C ecil a n d W ayne’s c o m m itm e n t to a sensitive resto ra tio n for a m o d e rn lifestyle. Luke M atthew s (1796-1875), original ow ner o f C otton Hill. Courtesy Johnny C rutcher and Dr. John Ennis. Luke M atthew s o f C otton Hill | 25 Luke Matthews of Cotton Hill W il l ia m J. S t u b n o , Jr . T he great highw ay fro m V irg in ia to A lab am a d u rin g th e years 1818-1819 was m o re like th e ro u te o f an arm y o f o c cu p a tio n th a n an o rd in a ry public highw ay, a n d travelers N o rth w a rd a sserted th a t they w o u ld so m etim es jo u rn e y for m a n y days w ith o u t b eing o u t o f sight o f e m ig ran t w agons, ac co m p an ied by long files o f N egro slaves stead ily tra m p in g sou th w ard . Judge T h o m as Jones Taylor, A H istory o f M adison C ou n ty a n d Incidentally o f N orth A lab a m a 1732-1840 (pp. 49-50) C o tto n H ill is located in L im estone C o u n ty , A labam a, along th e H u n tsv illeB row n’s F erry R oad, w est o f th e in terse c tio n o f th a t ro a d a n d C am b rid ge Lane th a t ru n s n o rth to U.S. H ighw ay 72 W est. T h e ho m esite is fu r th e r d escribed, for th e p u rp o se o f histo rica l analysis, as b ein g w ith in th e S o u th east Q u a rte r o f Section 36, T ow nship 3 S o u th , Range 4 W est o f th e H u n tsv ille M e rid ia n Line in L im estone C ounty, A labam a. C o n sistin g o f a p p ro x im ately 160 acres, th is q u a rte r section is located in an area k n o w n for a soil a n d clim ate favorable to th e grow ing o f co tto n . T he section was o rig in ally a p a rt o f th e lan d s w est o f M ad iso n C o u n ty in the A labam a T erritory, o n b o th sides o f th e T ennessee River, w h ich th e federal g o v ern m e n t offered for sale in 1818. At th a t tim e, th e c o u n try w as ex p erien cin g a p e rio d o f great in flatio n , b ro u g h t a b o u t by th e changes in th e n a tio n ’s eco n o m y as a resu lt o f th e W ar o f 1812. D u rin g th e w ar, foreign tra d e decreased, necessitatin g ex p a n d e d d o m estic m a n u fa c tu rin g to satisfy A m erica’s n eed for w ar goods. T he g o v ern m en t b o rro w ed heavily to pay for th o se goods, w hich p u t m o re m o n ey in to c ircu latio n . T he b o rro w in g p u t a stra in on b a n k reserves o f specie (m oney in coin) h eld ag ain st p a p er cu rre n c y o r notes. E ventually th e p ressu re led to a su sp en sio n o f specie p ay m ents, w hich resu lted in an increase in n o te issuance, cred it ex p an sio n , a n d risin g prices. W h en th e w ar end ed , co tto n becam e m o re expensive, n o t o n ly due to th e 26 | Luke M atthew s o f C otton Hill resu m in g o f foreign trad e, b u t also to th e ab u n d a n c e o f in flated c u rren cy .1 By 1818, th e price o f co tto n rose to an all-tim e high, p ro m p tin g lan d sp ecu lato rs to ru s h to b uy th e T ennessee Valley lan d s offered for sale at hig h ly in flated prices w ith cu rre n c y o f d u b io u s backing. Som e o f th o se speculators used Yazoo script, also k n o w n as “M ississippi stock,” as p a rt o f th e ir dow n pay m en t. T h a t scrip t o r stock, redeem able only in p aym en t for lan d , was issued as co m p en satio n to th o se in d i v iduals sw indled in th e Yazoo L and F rau d .2* O n F eb ru ary 9, 1818, R o b ert Taylor o f O range C ounty, V irg in ia p aid o n e -fo u rth o f th e p u rch ase m oney, co n sistin g m ostly o f “M ississippi stock,” for th e la n d w here C o tto n H ill w ould eventually stan d . T h e price o f th e lan d was hig h ly in flated at $17.56 a n acre, a n d th e re m a in in g p ay m en ts w ere due in th ree a n n u a l in stallm e n ts, as in d icated in his C ertificate o f P u rch ase.3 O n M ay 10, 1819, R obert Taylor gave pow er o f atto rn ey in th e O range C o u n ty C o u rt to Jo h n M. Taylor o f H un tsv ille, A labam a T erritory, w here th e local lan d office w as located, to sell “o r assign” th e certificate th a t also relieved h im o f th e o bliga tio n to m ak e the rem ain in g paym ents. S hortly th ereafter, T h eop o liu s T h o m a s o f L im estone C o u n ty p u rch ased th e certificate a n d th e p ay m en t obligations associ ated w ith it. U nfortunately , he b o u g h t th e p ro p e rty at a tim e w hen th e B ank o f th e U n ited States w as lau n c h in g a p ro g ra m o f m o n e ta ry c o n tra c tio n to en su re th a t all notes in c ircu latio n w ere backed by specie. T his re tu rn to solvency resu lted in a rash o f b a n k ru p tc ie s, falling prices in co tto n a n d o th e r co m m o d ities, a n d business failures th a t becam e k n o w n as th e P anic o f 1819. T he m o n e ta ry c o n tra ctio n also increased the pu rch asin g pow er o f th e dollar, forcing T h o m as to pay th e rem a in in g ’ The Yazoo Land fraud developed in the late 18th century when Georgia still claimed most of the land that now comprises Alabama and Mississippi. Corrupt Georgia legislators were bribed to sell much of this land to four land speculating companies at a ridiculously low price. The fraud was dis covered, the legislators removed, and the enabling law rescinded, but the scandal and ensuing legal uncertainties added further confusion to existing land and currency instabilities. In 1802 Georgia ceded its western lands to the federal government, and Congress assumed financial responsibility for settlements following an 1810 Supreme Court decision that validated the Yazoo claims. Lucy A n n Spottsw ood M atthew s (1816-1874), L u k e ’s second wife. Courtesy Johnny C rutcher a n d Dr. John Ennis. 28 | Luke M atthew s o f C otton Hill deb t o n h is la n d in dollars w o rth considerably m o re th a n before th e panic. T hom as, like m an y o th e r in d iv id u als, w as n o t able to m ake th e p ay m en ts on la n d p u rch ased from th e g o v ern m en t u n d e r th ese c ircu m stan ces.4 T he in a b ility o f so m an y in d iv id u als to m ake th e re m a in in g in sta llm e n t p ay m en ts on th e ir lan d p ro m p te d C ongress to pass a relief act on M arch 2, 1821, th a t enabled T h o m as to spread his pay m en ts over an eight-year p erio d , b eg in n in g on M arch 31, 1822, a n d en d in g w ith th e final p ay m en t on M arch 31, 1829. He m ade th e a rra n g e m en ts for m a k in g these p ay m en ts o n A ugust 30, 1821, a n d received a C ertificate o f F u rth e r C red it at th a t tim e fro m th e H u n tsv ille L and Office. If T h o m as failed to m ake these pay m en ts, th e la n d w o u ld rev ert back to th e U n ited States th re e m o n th s a fter th e final in sta llm e n t w as d u e .5 D u rin g a recen t renovatio n at C o tto n H ill, a b rick in scrib ed w ith th e date o f 1824 w as fo u n d in th e w est u p stairs fireplace, raising a questio n as to th e p o ssibility th a t T h o m as b u ilt th e house o n th e q u a rte r sectio n so m etim e a fter receiving fu rth e r c red it fro m th e lan d office. If T h o m as were th e bu ild er, he w ould have u n d o u b t edly been aw are th a t he w o u ld lose th e h o u se— a fixed im p ro v em en t— as well as th e la n d o n w hich it stood, for failure to m eet his p ay m en t obligations. In any event, he ev en tu ally forfeited th e la n d for n o n p ay m en t, effective July 4, 1829.6 O n M arch 31, 1830, C ongress passed a law th a t enabled in d iv id u als to buy lan d s “sold o n a cred it, an d on w hich a fu rth e r c red it has been tak en , u n d e r any o f th e laws p assed for th e relief o f p u rch asers o f public lands, a n d w hich have rev erted to th e U n ited States, on acco u n t o f th e b alance due th e reo n n o t h aving been p a id or discharg ed agreeably to said relief law s...”7 Luke M atthew s o f L im estone C o u n ty to o k advantage o f th e first section o f th e law by o b ta in in g p re -e m p tio n (the rig h t o f a settler o n public la n d to p u rch ase it at a fixed price to th e exclusion o f any o th e r ap plicant) over th e la n d previously held by T h o m as u n til July 4, 1831, co n tin g en t u p o n fu ll p ay m en t in cash at th e m in i m u m price p er acre. O n N ovem ber 30, 1830, he m ade th e p ay m en t well w ith in the Luke M atthew s o f C otton Hill | 29 d ead lin e at $3.50 an acre, w hereby he received a F inal C ertificate e n titlin g h im to a p atent. T he U n ited States issued th e p aten t, o r official title to th e q u a rte r section, o n A ugust 1,1831.8 V arious sources, in clu d in g th e records o f th e H isto ric A m erican B uildings Survey (HABS), cred it W illia m P a rh a m w ith b u ild in g C o tto n H ill for Luke M atthew s a ro u n d 1831. Sources state, m oreover, th a t P a rh am w as a m a ste r b u ild e r a n d cra ftsm a n w ho b u ilt several o th e r h o m es in th e vicinity, in c lu d in g th e John G ira u lt G am ble H ouse. P a rh am h a d o rig in ally im m ig rate d to L im estone C o u n ty from V irg in ia a ro u n d 1818. M atth ew s, also fro m th a t state, arriv e d a few years later.9 B orn in C am pbell C o u n ty , V irg in ia o n S ep tem b er 10, 1796 (his to m b sto n e gives S eptem ber 20 as h is b ir th d ate) L uke M atth ew s, o r “M ath ew s,” w as th e son o f Luke M atthew s, Sr., a n d h is w ife, Judith. H e h a d seven siblings, nam ely, Jo h n (his tw in ), Sam uel, E dw ard, W ash in g to n , N ath an ie l, N ancy, a n d Susan. D u rin g th e W ar of 1812, he served as a p riv ate w ith C a p ta in W illiam C o c k ’s T ro o p o f C avalry o f th e F irst R egim ent o f th e V irg in ia M ilitia (C am p b ell C o u n ty ) b etw een A ugust 30 a n d S eptem ber 20, 1814. P rio r to co m in g to A labam a, he w as em ployed as a clerk in L ynchburg, V irg in ia.10 A ro u n d 1822, Luke M atth ew s, his w idow ed m o th e r a n d o th e r fam ily m em b ers left V irginia a n d m oved to L im estone C ounty. O n M arch 8, 1826, he m a rrie d M iss Ju d ith Peete, d a u g h te r o f B en jam in a n d A n n B lunt (“B lo u n t” ) Peete, a n d even tu ally h ad eight ch ild ren , fo u r o f w h o m lived. T he c h ild ren , how ever, w ere left w ith o u t a m o th e r u p o n h er d e ath in Ja n u ary 1842.11 O n Jan u ary 26, 1843, he m a rrie d a seco n d tim e , to M iss Lucy A n n S potsw ood o f n earb y H untsville. She w as th e d a u g h te r o f E llio tt a n d S arah D an d rid g e Spotsw ood. In a d d itio n to h er new role as step m o th er, she w o u ld in th e co u rse o f tim e b eco m e a m o th e r to eight c h ild re n o f h e r o w n .12 In 1846, M atthew s m oved w ith his seco n d wife to M ad iso n C ounty, w here he h ad p u rch ased a p la n ta tio n n e a r Elko Sw itch, a stop o n th e M em p h is & C h arlesto n rail 30 | Luke M atthew s o f C otton Hill line so u th w est o f H u n tsv ille n ea r th e L im estone C o u n ty line. A lth o u g h he was n ow a resident o f M ad iso n C o u n ty w ho w ould ev entually move in to H u n tsv ille, M atth ew s c o n tin u e d to h o ld on to his C o tto n H ill p lan tatio n , c o n tain in g a p p ro x i m ately 1,092.40 acres, u n til he sold it to John B. M cC lellan in 1873.13 Records reveal th a t in th e years follow ing his move fro m L im estone C ounty, M atth ew s b o u g h t an d sold v ario u s p ro p ertie s in th e c o u n ty as well as in H untsv ille. O ne such p ro p erty , p u rch ased in 1868 for use as a residence, was th e ho u se a n d lot in to w n at 416 M cC lung Avenue. P erhaps due to age a n d d eclin in g h ealth , he tr a n s ferred title o f th is residence to fo u r o f his ch ild ren (Jam es, Betty, Lucy, a n d Susie) in 1874, th e year his second wife died. M atth ew s co n tin u ed , however, to live at th e residence u n til his d eath on A ugust 1, 1875.14 At th e tim e o f his death , M atth ew s was surv iv ed by n in e ch ild ren , in clu d in g M rs. N an cy (M ary) Jane R o b ertso n o f P ittsb u rg h , Pennsylvania; M rs. M aria D. E rskine o f H u n tsv ille; M r. B enjam in L. M atth ew s o f M arsh all C ounty, A labam a; M iss E lizab eth R. M atthew s o f H u n tsv ille; M r. Jam es P. M atth ew s o f H u n tsv ille; M r. W illiam E. M atthew s o f M arsh all C ounty, A labam a; M rs. B etty M. W atk in s o f H u n tsv ille; M iss Lucy M atthew s o f H u n tsv ille; a n d M iss Susie M atthew s o f H u n tsv ille. H e also left p ro p e rty consisting o f a storehouse at N u m b e r 2 C o m m ercial Row (the east side o f w hat is now H a rriso n B rothers H ard w are on S o u th Side S quare), a vacan t lo t o n L ocust Street, an d th e Sivly Place, located th re e m iles fro m H u n tsv ille.15 In regard to th e later ow ners o f C o tto n H ill, John B. M cC lellan d ivided th e p ro p e rty an d sold the hou se w ith 212 acres in 1879 to A ndrew J. Rowe, th e son o f Rev. Jam es Rowe, w ho h ad fo u n d ed th e M onte Sano Fem ale A cadem y in 1830. T h e hom esite, fu r th e r reduced to 100 acres after Rowe p u rch ased it, ev entually passed in to th e han d s o f his son, G eorge, w ho conveyed th e 100-acre tra c t to his bro th er-in -law , J.E. H a rd im a n , in 1930. In 1973, th e H a rd im a n fam ily sold th e old p la n ta tio n house w ith only 25 acres to W illiam a n d B etty Sum m erfelt, a retire d couple from M ichigan. W ith in ten tio n s o f resto rin g it, C ecil A rm stro n g p u rch ased C o tto n H ill w ith its re m a in in g 25 acres fro m M r. S um m erfelt in 2001.16 Luke M atthew s o f C otton H ill | 31 N otes 1 _____ _______________ T h o m as P. A bernethy, The Frontier Period in A labam a, 1815-1828 (U niversity: U niv ersity o f A lab am a Press, 1965), pp. 64, 66-67; M u rry N. R o th b ard , The Panic o f 1819 (N ew York: C o lu m b ia U niversity Press, 1962), pp. 1-58. 2 A bernethy, Frontier Period, pp. 64-68. 3 C ertificate o f P u rch ase N u m b e r 1790, L and E n try Case File N u m b e r 108, R ecord G ro u p 49, N atio n a l A rchives, W ash in g to n , D .C.; T ract B ook R ecords, G eneral L an d O ffice, S pringfield, V irginia. 4 D aniel Feller, The Public L ands in Jacksonian Politics (M adison: U niversity o f W isconsin Press, 1984), p. 22; Pow er o f A ttorney, L an d E n try Case File N u m b e r 108; R o th b ard , Panic o f 1819, pp. 1-58; A bernethy, F ro n tier P eriod, p. 69. 5 “A n A ct for th e relief o f th e p u rch asers o f p ub lic lan d s p rio r to th e first day o f July, eighteen h u n d re d a n d tw enty,” Statutes a t Large 3, pp. 612-614 (1821); Feller, Public Lands, p. 35; T ract B ook R ecords, G en eral L and Office; C ertificate o f F u rth e r C red it, L an d E n try C ase File N u m b e r 108. 6 Interview w ith L ak in Boyd, A rt a n d A rc h ite c tu ra l H isto ria n , H u n tsv ille, A labam a, 10 M ay 2005; T ract B ook R ecords, G en eral L and Office. 7 “A n A ct for th e relief o f th e p u rch asers o f p u b lic lan d , a n d for th e su p p res sion o f fra u d u le n t p ractices at th e p u b lic sales o f th e lan d s o f th e U n ited States,” Statutes a t Large 4, pp. 390-391(1830). 8 Final C ertificate, L an d E n try C ase File N u m b e r 108; T ract B ook R ecords, G eneral L an d O ffice; “A n A ct for th e relief o f th e p u rch asers o f p u b lic lan d , an d for th e su p p ressio n o f fra u d u le n t practices at th e p ublic sales o f th e lan d s o f th e U n ited States,” p. 391. 32 | Luke M atthew s o f Cotton Hill 9 R ecords o f the H isto ric A m erican B uildings Survey (H ABS), L ibrary o f C ongress, W ashin g to n , D.C.; C h ris E dw ards a n d Faye A xford, The Lure and Lore o f Lim estone C ounty (Tuscaloosa: P o rtals Press, 1978), pp. 182-184. 10 Virginia M ilitia in the W ar o f 1812, (B altim ore: G enealogical P u b lish in g C om pany, 2000), p. 235; P auline J. G a n d ru d , A labam a Soldiers, Volum e 19, 1997, pp. 79-80. W illliam L. H o p k in s, C ampbell County, Virginia Wills and Inventories, 1782-1847 (R ich m o n d , V irginia: By th e A uthor, 1989), pp. 65, 72, a n d 76; C am pbell C ounty Virginia M arriage Bonds, 1781-1854 (Salt Lake City, U tah : G enealogical Society o f U tah , N ovem ber 1937; re p rin t ed., Salem , M assachusetts: H iggonson B ook C om pany, no d ate), pp. 71 an d 154. 11 D eed B ook I, pp. 93-94, M ad iso n C ounty, A labam a; G a n d ru d , A labam a Soldiers, pp. 80-81; E dw ards an d A xford, Lure and Lore, p. 183. 12 “In the summer of 1820, the United States Public Land Office reported that of the $21,173,489.87 which would be due the fed eral government at the end of the year from purchasers o f public lands, $11,220,685.55, or nearly 53 percent, was due from the single state of Alabama.” Hugh C. Bailey, John Williams Walker, A Study in the Political, Social and Cultural Life o f the Old Southwest (University: University of Alabama Press, 1964), p.151. G a n d ru d , A labam a Soldiers, pp. 80-81. 13 D eed B ook 15, p. 235, L im estone C ounty, A labam a; D eed B ook V, pp. 255256, M ad iso n C ounty, A labam a; E dw ards a n d A xford, Lure a n d Lore, p. 183. 14 E dw ards a n d A xford, Lure a n d Lore, p .183; D eed B ook JJ, p. 145, M ad iso n C ounty, A labam a; D eed Book Z Z, p. 466, M ad iso n C ounty, A labam a; M aple H ill C em etery R ecords, H untsv ille, A labam a. Luke M atthew s o f C otton Hill | 33 15 P ro b ate R ecord B ook 34, pp. 155-156, M ad iso n C ounty, A labam a; P ro b ate R ecord B ook 35, p. 308, M ad iso n C o u n ty , A lab am a; D eed Book RR, pp. 382384, M ad iso n C ounty, A labam a; E dw ards a n d A xford, Lure a n d Lore, p. 183. 16 D eed B ook 19, p. 21, L im estone C o u n ty , A lab am a; R ecords o f th e Tax A ssessor’s O ffice, L im estone C o u n ty , A lab am a; E dw ards a n d A xford, Lure a nd Lore, pp. 183-184; Pat Jones, “Rowe H o m e,” H untsville Tim es, 23 June 1935, p. 3. Above: Front facade o f Oakendale, L uke’s M adison C ounty p lantation house, prior to being moved. The house had previously been stuccoed and the fro n t entry m odified. Below: Rear elevation revealing the clapboard siding and location o f the kitchen wing, as it was being relocated on Redstone A rsenal in 1955. U.S. A rm y A viation and M issile C om m and’s Historical Function, Secretary o f the General Staff, Redstone Arsenal Historical Inform ation Web site. Luke M atthew s o f M ad ison C ou n ty | 35 Luke Matthews in Madison County L in d a Ba y e r A llen Luke M atth ew s’s im p a c t o n N o rth A lab am a was n o t co n fin ed to his m ag n ificen t L im estone C o u n ty p la n ta tio n house, C o tto n H ill. H e sp en t th e en d o f his life in M adison C ounty, w here he m a in ta in e d a second, even larger, c o tto n p la n ta tio n u n til th e cap tu re o f H u n tsv ille d u rin g th e C ivil W ar w hen he m oved in to to w n . A n d his n u m e ro u s d escen d an ts, m a n y o f w h o m m a rrie d a n d stayed in th e city, c o n tin ued to play vital roles in H u n tsv ille ’s history. As early as 1845 w hile still resid in g at C o tto n H ill, Luke b eg an a c q u irin g an existing co tto n p la n ta tio n a n d h o u se in M ad iso n C ounty. H is in itia l p u rch ase consisted o f 1,233 acres, for w h ich he p aid $12,900. Five years later he m ad e a second p u rch ase o f 1,062 acres ad jo in in g th e first, for w h ich he p aid $21,519. A th ird trac t, b o u g h t in 1856, co m pleted th e assem blage o f his M ad iso n C o u n ty p lan tatio n , called O akendale, w hich c o n ta in e d ap p ro x im ately 2,400 acres. P a rt o f th is la n d h ad p rev i ously been o w ned by Jam es M a n n in g , Sr., w ho b u ilt th e large, m ag n ificen t house, now dem olished, k n o w n as T h e G rove, once lo cated o n th e w est side o f G allatin Street atop th e k n o ll w est o f M a n n in g D rive in d o w n to w n H u n tsv ille. In d icatio n s are th a t M a n n in g also c o n stru c te d a large h o u se on his p la n ta tio n p rio r to L uke’s p u rch ase o f it in 1845. L uke’s second w ife, Lucy A n n S p o ttsw o o d (“S p o tsw o o d ” ), w as fro m H u n tsv ille, a n d p erh ap s th is explains his w illingness to leave his C o tto n H ill p la n ta tio n a n d m ake O ak en d ale h is hom e. At an y rate, th ey resided at O ak en d ale for a lm o st tw e n ty years a n d raised eight c h ild re n in a d d itio n to th e fo u r su rv iv in g fro m L uke’s first m arria g e to Ju d ith P eete.1 O ak en d ale p la n ta tio n w as located o n b o th sides o f th e M em p h is & C h arlesto n R ailro ad (M & C ) track s a n d along th e w est side o f w hat is n o w R id eo u t R oad, w hich leads to G ate 9 o f R ed sto n e A rsenal. In th e 19th cen tu ry , th is area w as k n o w n as Elko Switch, a stop on th e M & C lin e w here people co u ld catch th e tr a in in to H u n tsv ille o r load th e ir c o tto n for ship p in g , alth o u g h it h a d n o physical facility. 36 | Luke M atthew s o f M adison Coun ty T oday L uke’s p la n ta tio n is o ccupied p rim a rily by R edstone A rsenal a n d T h o rn to n R esearch Park. T he house itself was sited southw est o f th e in tersec tio n o f th e ra il ro ad track s a n d R ideout R oad. Fam ily legend relates th a t G en eral O rm sb y M itchell, on his w ay to occu py H u n tsv ille, sto p p ed at O akendale, p resu m ab ly to confiscate L uke’s co tto n . Luke m u st have suspected M itch ell’s in te n t a n d h ad 120 bales d e stroyed. In re tu rn , an irate M itchell forced Luke an d Lucy to a b an d o n O akendale a n d m ove in to H u n tsv ille, w here th ey resided at 528 A dam s S treet (w hich was o w n ed by L uke’s b ro th er-in -law fro m his first m arriag e) d u rin g th e years o f the C ivil W ar. Luke stayed on in H u n tsv ille after th e w ar, a n d in 1868 he p u rc h ase d th e ho u se a n d fo u r acres at 416 M cC lung Avenue, w here he a n d Lucy A n n resided u n til th e ir death s, hers in 1874 a n d his in 1875.2 A fter th e C ivil W ar, Luke co n tin u e d to acquire M ad iso n C o u n ty acreage u p to th e y ear he d ied at age 79. H is second ru ra l tra c t consisted o f ap p ro x im ately 1,200 acres lo cated at th e n o rth e a st co rn e r o f P ulask i Pike a n d Bob W ade Lane, w hich has re cently b een developed by Toyota as a m ajo r m a n u fa c tu rin g facility for th e p ro d u c tio n o f tru c k engines. In 1871 he assem bled a th ird ru ra l tra c t o f 750 acres located ro u g h ly betw een S o u th M em orial Parkw ay a n d H u n tsv ille Spring B ranch o n w hat is now Jo h n H u n t P ark a n d th e H u n tsv ille M u n icip al G o lf C o u rse.3 B ut n o t all his tra n sa c tio n s involved ru ra l lan d . In H u n tsv ille he p u rc h a se d at au ctio n a o n e -th ird in terest in a b u ild in g o n East Side S quare (now k n o w n as th e S ch iffm an b u ild in g ). A n o th e r co m m ercial p ro p e rty ow ned by Luke was th e east side o f w h at is now H a rriso n B rothers H ardw are, w hich he p u rch ased in 1868 for $6,000. T he executors o f his estate sold th is p ro p e rty in 1881 for $2,025. The H a rriso n b ro th ers p aid $1,500 w hen th e y acq u ired it in 1902, follow ing a fire th a t began in a n earb y feed store a n d spread to ad jo in in g b u ild in g s. T h e H a rriso n s had previously located th e ir store in one o f th e d am ag e d bu ild in g s. A fter th e e x p a n sion, they h ire d a c o n tra c to r to re p a ir th e tw o stru c tu re s, c o n n ect th em , c o n stru c t a u n ify in g facade, a n d b u ild an ad d itio n o n th e rear o f th e ir o rig in al store. T he result o f th is project w as th e H a rriso n B rothers H ard w are business th a t rem ain s in 416 M cC lung A venue was ow ned and occupied by Luke M atthew s fro m 1868 u n til his death in 1875; the yard contained fo u r acres a n d extended dow n to A d a m s Street. Courtesy H untsville-M adison C ounty Public Library 38 | Luke M atthew s o f M ad ison Coun ty o p e ra tio n to d ay on S o u th Side Square u n d e r th e o w n ersh ip o f th e H isto ric H u n tsv ille F o u n d atio n .4 L uke m ay have b o u g h t M adison C o u n ty la n d as an in vestm en t, b u t w hat seem s m o re likely is th a t he rec o g n ized th e p recario u s econom ic co n d itio n s th a t p revailed at th e en d o f the w ar an d w as desirous o f leaving his large b ro o d o f offspring lan d rich. The value o f h is ow n holdings m u st have b een considerable before th e w ar to be 527 Franklin Street was the hom e o f L uke’s daughter able to su sta in th e loss o f m o re th a n M aria Dance M atthew s and her husband Dr. A lbert 100 slaves in M ad iso n C o u n ty alone Russel Erskine; M aria sold the house in 1912. Courtesy a n d still be able to purchase p ro p e rty H untsville-M adison C ounty Public Library in th e dow n years o f th e late 1860s a n d early 1870s. F rom 1845 to 1856 Luke b o u g h t only tw o p ro p ertie s, th e S chiffm an b u ild in g a n d O akendale; b u t betw een 1865 a n d 1875 he b o u g h t n in e a d d itio n al tra c ts, for w hich he p aid a to ta l o f $63,530. In ad d itio n , he reta in ed o w n ersh ip o f b o th th e C o tto n H ill an d O ak en d ale p lan tatio n s u n til 1873.5 In M arch o f 1873 he divid ed th e m ajo rity o f his O ak en d ale p la n ta tio n am o n g th re e of h is sons by his second m arriag e: Jam es P leasant M atthew s received 700 acres ly ing on the so u th side o f th e M8cC tracks w hich included th e “dw elling a n d h o u ses”; E llio tt R obertson M atthew s was d eeded 600 acres w hich w ere already in his p o s session; a n d John N ath an ie l M atthew s b ecam e th e o w n er o f 596 acres lying on th e n o rth side o f th e railro a d on w hich he was residing. C o n fu sio n exists a b o u t Jo h n ’s date o f death , w hich his to m b sto n e in M aple H ill C em etery shows as 1871; however, his fath er deeded h im lan d in 1873 a n d his last tw o c h ild ren were b o rn in 1872 an d 1874. It ap pears th a t John actu ally d ied in 1874, especially in light o f L uke’s final Luke M atthew s o f M ad ison Count}' | 39 fam ily deed, w hich w as m ade in M ay o f 1875, conveying th e re m a in in g 462 acres o f O aken dale to th e five ch ild re n o f Jo h n .6 L uke’s fo u rth su rv iv in g son b y Lucy A n n received 833 acres w here th e Toyota p la n t now sits; a n d ju s t m o n th s before his d ea th Luke d eeded his o n e -th ird in terest in th e S chiffm an b u ild in g to his d a u g h te r M a ria D an ce M atth ew s, w ho h ad m a rrie d Dr. A lb ert E rskine. T h e E rskines lived in th e h o u se at 527 F ra n k lin Street, w hich Luke had deeded to his d a u g h ter in 1874, n in e years a fte r b u y in g it fro m h e r h u sb an d . M aria re tain ed possession o f th is h o u se u n til 1912 w hen she sold it to L aura M ae Powell.7 H aving doled o u t th e larg est tra c ts o f h is la n d to his yo u n g est sons, Luke left a p e c u liar w ill d ire c tin g his executors to “ d is trib u te all m y estate, real a n d p erso n al o f every d escrip tio n b etw een m y ch ild re n acco rd in g to th e laws o f said state w hich govern th e d is trib u tio n o f real a n d p erso n a l estates o f p erso n s dying in te sta te ....” However, he h ad k ep t a reco rd o f w h at he h ad previously given each child, a n d th o se gifts w ere to be con sid ered as p a rt o f h is estate in th e d is trib u tio n o f his re m ain in g assets. B oth Luke a n d Lucy A n n M atth ew s w ere b u rie d in M aple H ill C em etery; Judith Peete, L uke’s first w ife, w as pro b ab ly in te rre d o n th e C o tto n H ill pro p erty , b u t her stone has n o t b een fo u n d .8 W h en Luke m oved to M ad iso n C o u n ty fro m C o tto n H ill he w as obviously a c cu s to m ed to living in a large, stylish house. All available evidence in d icates th a t th e O ak en d ale house still stan d s, alth o u g h in a d ifferen t lo catio n a n d in a d isastro u sly altered co n d itio n . W h e n th e U.S. A rm y co n d e m n e d la n d for th e esta b lish m e n t o f w hat becam e R edstone A rsenal, th ere w ere tw o large p la n ta tio n houses still e x ta n t. O ne, called th e C h an ey h o u se a fte r its th e n ow ner, w as located o n th e O ak en d ale la n d an d was believed to have b een c o n stru c te d circa 1835, w hich w o u ld have c o in cided w ith Jam es M a n n in g ’s ow nership. A lth o u g h no 1 9 th -c en tu ry p h o to g ra p h s o f th e ho u se are k n o w n , p ictu res tak e n in 1955 w hen th e h o u se was relo cated d e m o n strate th a t it was one o f th e c o u n ty ’s 40 | L u k e M atthew s o f M ad ison C oun ty o u ts ta n d in g an teb e llu m stru c tu re s. O f a slightly u n u su a l design for M ad iso n C o u n ty it w as a large, re c ta n g u la r b o x u n d e r an overh an g in g h ip p ed roof, h aving a sy m m etrical, th ree-b ay facade a n d fo u r huge ro o m s flan k in g a w ide cen tral hallw ay on each o f tw o floors. U nlike m o st local an teb e llu m h ouses o f its size, it h a d one set o f p a ire d 9/9 w indow s on e ith er side o f th e cen tered fro n t e n try an d th ree sets across th e second floor fro n t, a fen estratio n th a t w as rep eated on th e rear w here th e d o u b le-leaf do o rw ay w ith tra n so m was still visible. Also u n c o m m o n , a lth o u g h n o t u n iq u e in th e county, are th e d ouble ex terio r b rick chim neys o n e ith er side wall sep arated by tw o 9/9 w indow s p e r floor a n d flanked by a single 9/9 w in d o w at each o u te r edge. T h e w ood-sid ed h o u se h a d been stuccoed an d th e fro n t e n try altered, o b sc u rin g th e design o f th e o rig in al e n try a n d porch. T he ho u se w as tw ice th e size o f C o tto n H ill, an d th e O ak en d ale p la n ta tio n h a d tw ice th e acreage o f th e C o tto n H ill p la n ta tio n .9 N ellie M cA nally, w ho lived in th e house for several years d u rin g th e 1920s, recalled in a 1989 in terv iew th a t th e la n d was ren ted o u t to te n a n ts w ho grew co tto n a n d c o rn a n d b o u g h t th e ir supplies fro m a co m m issary located in th e old k itch en at th e rear o f th e house. A d rive lin ed w ith cedar trees led to th e fro n t door. T he house was clap b o ard th e n , a n d h ad a sm all p o rch in fro n t a n d a larger, screened p o rch in back. E ach ro o m h ad its ow n fireplace. T here was no electricity a n d th e only r u n n in g w ater cam e fro m a tap in th e kitchen. ‘T h ere w ere big folding doors betw een [the fro n t room ] a n d th e d in in g ro o m at th e back, so th ey cou ld o p en th e m a n d m ake a b allro o m . T here was a fireplace over there, w ith co lu m n s all th e w ay to th e ceiling, an d m irro rs. It w as b eau tifu l. It m akes you w onder w hy th e y w ould w an t to change it a ll .. .This was o u r k itc h e n .. .we h ad cabinets along here, an d on th is wall a d o o r led o u t to o u r screened p o rch w here we ate d u rin g th e w arm w eather. T h ere was a w ater faucet in here, b u t n o sink. T h a t was th e only ru n n in g w ater in th e w hole house, an d th ere w ere no b a th ro o m s.’10 Luke M atthew s o f M ad ison C oun ty | 41 A fter th e h o u se was m oved eleven m iles across th e arsen al in 1955 it was again “m o d e rn iz e d .” T he only fireplace re m a in in g was faced in p in k m arble, a n d a second staircase in th e b ack was rem oved, as w ere th re e o f th e m assive ch im n ey s an d th e stairs to th e attic. B oth floors w ere p a rti tio n e d in to b e d ro o m s, b aths, kitchen s a n d closets. T h e ex terio r was faced w ith yellow ish b rick an d a tw o-story, co lu m n ed p o rch added. A 1982 h is 421 M cC lung A venue was the hom e o f L u ke’s daughter Lucy and her husband D. Irvine W h ite who bu ilt it in 1888; the house was occupied by fa m ily descendants until 1983. Photograph by Linda B. Allen to ric a l b u ild in g s survey re p o rte d th a t “a lth o u g h th is a n te-b e llu m house rep resen ts p re -m ilita ry la n d use, it re tain s little o f its o rig in al integrity. T he house has been extensively ren o v ated a n d m oved fro m its o rig in al site, an d therefore possesses little a rc h ite c tu ra l o r h isto ric al significance.” Follow ing th e m ove, the arm y re n a m e d it th e G o d d a rd h o u se." T he M atthew ses re ta in e d possession o f th e 700-acre tra c t c o n ta in in g th e ho u se from 1845 u n til 1892 w hen it w as conveyed o u t o f th e fam ily. By th e tim e th e a rm y began acq u irin g la n d in 1941, th e o n ly O ak en d ale p ro p e rty still o w ned by th e M atthew s fam ily ap p ears to have been 308 acres o w n ed by L uke’s g ra n d d a u g h te r C arrie T ardy M atth ew s. It w as ta k e n by em in e n t d o m a in .12 T he d eath s o f Luke a n d Lucy A n n , how ever, d id n o t en d th e M atth ew s fam ily c o n n ectio n s w ith H u n tsv ille houses a n d d evelopm ent. Luke h ad deed ed his to w n ho u se at 416 M cC lung A venue to fo u r o f his ch ild ren , a n d tw o years after his d eath , th e h o u se w as sold to Lucy B. M atth ew s, Luke’s d au g h te r-in -la w a n d th e wife o f Jam es P. M atthew s. It re m a in e d in h er o w n ersh ip u n til 1902 w hen h e r w idow ed hus- 42 | Luke M atthew s o f M ad ison C oun ty b a n d a n d d a u g h te r sold it to A lb erta Taylor.13 Lucy, one o f L uke’s d augh ters, m a r ried D avid Irv in e W h ite w ho b u ilt th e tow ered b rick V icto rian house at 421 M cC lung A venue in 1888. Lucy lived th ere u n til h er d eath in 1939, at w hich tim e it w as w illed to h er son A ddison W h ite o n th e co n d itio n th a t he pay each o f h is fo u r b ro th ers $2,000. T his h o u se is a slightly m odified copy o f a 601 Franklin Street was bought in 1875 by H enrietta M atthew s, w idow o f L uke’s son John N athaniel. Two o f h o u se in R ich m o n d , K entucky, b u ilt her daughters inherited the house, which stayed in the by Irv in e W h ite ’s uncle Shelby Irv in e, fa m ily u n til 1944. Photograph by Linda B. A llen w ho, acco rd in g to fam ily tra d itio n , sent h im a copy o f th e p la n s.14 lo h n N ath an ie l M atthew s, Luke’s son w ho d ied early, was survived by his w idow H e n rie tta a n d five ch ild ren . In 1875 H e n rie tta p u rch ased 601 F ra n k lin Street, a lth o u g h fam ily lore relates th a t Luke (an d possibly h e r father) p u t u p th e m oney so she a n d th e g ran d ch ild ren w o u ld have a h o m e follow ing th e d eath o f John. H e n rie tta w illed th e hou se to h er tw o u n m a rrie d d au g h ters; it stayed in th e fam ily u n til 1944 a n d p rovided a refuge for o th e r fam ily m em b ers th ro u g h th e y ears.15 O ne o f L uke’s b ro th ers, Sam uel M atthew s, p u rch ased th e h o u se at 413 M cC lung A venue in 1857 an d his fam ily resided th ere d u rin g th e w ar years, selling it in 1870. Sam uel h ad also b u ilt a large fram e m an sio n in so u th e rn L im estone C o u n ty n ear th e T ennessee River a b o u t 1840; it was relocated by TVA an d th e n severely dam ag ed in 1974 by a to rn a d o .16 W illiam E dw in M atthew s, Luke’s son w ho in h erite d th e fa rm now o ccupied by Toyota, w as unable to ho ld on to it, ev entually losing it an d m oving to G ladstone Luke M atthew s o f M adison C ou n ty | 43 Place (the an teb e llu m h om e o f G o v ern o r R euben C h ap m an ) in 1889, w here he o p erated M onte Sano D a iry a n d raised Lily Flagg, th e 1892 c h am p io n Jersey b u tte rfa t p ro d u cer.17 In th e n ext g eneratio n , one o f L uke’s g ra n d so n s B en jam in a n d his wife Olive, along w ith th e ir tw o sons O liver K ennedy a n d Luke, Jr., c o n stitu te d th e en tire b o a rd o f directo rs o f th e S pring C ity M illin g C o m p an y in 1921. T h e m ill w as located as early as th e 1890s on th e so u th side o f W est C lin to n Avenue, w here th e d o w n to w n p o st office now stan d s. In 1926, Luke Jr., ch an g ed th e bu sin ess o f th e c o m p an y fro m a g rin d in g an d feed m ill to a large c o tto n w areh o u se com plex, w hich he c o n stru cte d on th e sam e site a n d n am e d it th e D ixie W arehouse a n d Storage C om pany. At th e sam e tim e th e w areh o u se for th e S pring C ity M illin g C o m p an y o n th e n o rth side o f W est C lin to n becam e M atth ew s B ro th ers Feed C om pany. Luke, Jr., a n d his wife, M arjorie, o p erated th e D ixie W areh o u se, w hile Luke Jr.’s b ro th e r O liver K ennedy M atthew s a n d his son ap p are n tly to o k over th e feed bu sin ess, even tu ally co n v ertin g it to a b u ild in g supply co m p an y .18 T he M atthew s fam ily also c o n trib u te d to th e dev elo p m en t o f H u n tsv ille th ro u g h D ixie W arehouse and Storage C om pany on W est C linton A venue was established in 1926 by L u ke’s great-grandson Luke, Jr. and his w ife M arjorie; it ceased operation about 1977. C ourtesy H untsville-M adison C ounty Public Library 4 4 I Luke M atthew s o f M ad ison C oun ty In 1909 The D em ocrat reported that “Mr. and Mrs. E. R. M atthew s have moved out to their home, Bide-A-W ee, a t the fo o t o f M onte Sano. It was the old home, Oak Place, built and owned by the late Mr. George Steele. The house and surrounding grove is one o f the handsom est old residences in this vicinity.” Historic A m erican Buildings Survey, ALA, 45-HU VI. V, 1-2 su bdivisions o f lan d th a t th ey h a d acqu ired . T he College H ill A d d itio n o f 1928 p la t ted lots so u th o f Big Cove R oad, east o f C alifo rn ia Street an d along b o th sides o f Lee H ighw ay (G overnors D rive). T h is developm ent o p en ed W estm o relan d , Lytle, Gill, an d M atthew s streets, th ereb y creatin g a p e rm a n e n t m a rk er o f th e M atth ew s fam ily passage th ro u g h H u n tsv ille .19 In 1947, b ro th ers Luke, Jr., a n d O.K. M atthew s split a large tra c t o f la n d lying on th e n o rth side o f Big Cove R oad ju st east o f C alifo rn ia Street. Luke Jr.’s lot c o n sisted o f 43 acres th a t he sub d iv id ed in to 106 resid en tial lots in 1950, w hich w as th e b e g in n in g o f a new n eig h b o rh o o d th a t assu m ed th e n am e o f Luke Jr.’s subdivision: B lossom w ood. Luke, Jr., a n d M arjo rie lived on th e n o rth side o f Big Cove R oad for E lliott R. M atthew s III (1920-2004) great-grandson o f Luke M atthew s, in 2001. Courtesy Johnny Crutcher 46 | Luke M atthew s o f M ad ison Coun ty years in a lovely stone bungalow . Luke, Jr., d ied in 1956 a n d his son Ben c o n tin u e d o p eratio n o f D ixie W arehouse a n d Storage u n til its close, a b o u t 1977.20 O.K. a n d M arie M atthew s su b d iv id ed th e ir 40-acre parcel on th e east side o f B lossom w ood subdiv isio n in 1955 as W in d y H ill, w hich consisted o f eleven lots along th e n o rth side o f Big Cove Road, and, in 1956 added W in d y H ill, Second A d d itio n , co n ta in in g 46 lots lying so u th o f B lossom w ood School along th e new streets o f W o o d m o n t, Olive a n d East O live.21 A n o th e r o f L uke’s g ran d so n s, E lliott M atth ew s, Jr., m a rrie d M arg aret B urns, w ho in 1908 h ad b o u g h t O ak Place, th e hom e b u ilt by a rch itect G eorge Steele (circa 1840) on M aysville R oad. T he follow ing year she d eeded th e house an d s u rro u n d ing 169 acres to h e r new h u sb an d , b u t in 1919 th e y lost th e p ro p e rty w hen th e y were unab le to m ake th e m ortgage paym ents. From th e n on th e fam ily lived in ren tal q u a rte rs, in clu d in g m an y o f th e houses along F ra n k lin Street a n d M cC lung Avenue w here th ey h ad n u m e ro u s relatives. E lliott M atth ew s III related th a t w hen his m o th e r p u rch ased O ak Place it h ad been vacan t for years an d hay was b ein g sto red in th e d o w n stairs. T he M atthew ses called th e h o u se Bide-A-W ee, a n am e th a t recu rs on th e subdivision street so u th o f it th a t w as n o t p latted u n til 1956.22 M arg aret an d E lliott M atth ew s, Jr., h ad six ch ild ren , b u t E lliott III w as th e one w ho m ad e th e m o st recen t a n d p erh ap s m o st significant c o n trib u tio n to th e city by d o n a tin g to T he L and T ru st o f H u n tsv ille an d N o rth A labam a a life estate in his 130-acre farm o f p astu re a n d w o o d lan d in L im estone C ounty. A lth o u g h E llio tt was b o rn in H u n tsv ille a n d lived here for m u ch o f his life— even w orking in th e C ity o f H u n tsv ille finance d e p a rtm e n t for 14 years— his love was th e lan d , a n d he b ecam e depressed w hen he saw it b ein g destroyed by ra m p a n t developm ent. E lliott believed th a t A labam a had been good to h im a n d he w an ted to repay it by preserv in g his piece o f lan d for th e enjo y m en t o f fu tu re generations. E lliott R o b ertso n M atthew s III died in Jan u ary 2004 at age 83, h av in g left a living legacy o f th e M atth ew s fam ily for all the fam ilies in N o rth A labam a. Luke M atthew s o f M ad ison C o u n ty | 47 Postscript T his abbreviated n a rrativ e o f th e M atth ew s fam ily a n d its im p act o n M ad iso n an d L im estone cou n ties w o u ld n o t have been possible w ith o u t th e v ario u s w ritin g s a n d interview s left by E llio tt R. M atth ew s III, w ho tre a su re d his fam ily ’s h isto ry a n d trie d to keep alive its legacy by retellin g th e stories h e a rd in his y o u th in H u n tsv ille a n d th ro u g h ded ica ted research in to th e lives an d tim es o f his ancestors. E specially helpful w as th e in terv iew w ith E llio tt ta p ed by T h e L and T ru st o f H u n tsv ille a n d N o rth A labam a in June 2002. Special th a n k s also go to o th e r M atth ew s d escen d an ts w ho assisted o u r research by generously sh a rin g fam ily stories, genealogies, a n d p hotographs. N otes 1 D eed B ook V, p.255, D eed B ook Y, p.197; D eed Book AA, p .420, M ad iso n C ounty, A labam a. 2 D eed B ook JJ, p .145, M ad iso n C ounty, A labam a. 3 D eed B ook O O , p .200; D eed B ook RR, p.382, M ad iso n C ounty, A labam a. 4 D eed B ook X, p.513; D eed B ook JJ, p.253; D eed B ook FFF, p.228; D eed Book 90, p.169; D eed B ook 637, p.860, M ad iso n C ounty, A labam a. 5 1856 M ad iso n C o u n ty Tax A ssessm ents. 6 D eed Book VV, p.504; D eed Book VV, p.506; D eed B ook VV, p.507; D eed Book Z Z, p.495, M ad iso n C o u n ty , A labam a. 7 D eed Book Z Z, p .504; D eed Book Z Z, p.565; D eed B ook EE, p .36; D eed Book XX, p .173, D eed B ook 105, p.277, M ad iso n C o u n ty , A labam a. 8 W ill Book 1, p.544, M ad iso n C o u n ty , A labam a. 9 w w w .re d sto n e .a rm y .m il/h isto ry /g o d d a rd /w e lco m e .h tm l. 10 P am Rogers, G o d d a rd H o u se serves as re m in d e r o f p re-A rm y d a y s ... Redstone Rocket, 25 O cto b e r 1989, p p .10-11. 48 | Luke M atthew s o f M adison C oun ty 11 w w w .red sto n e.arm y .m il/h isto ry /g o d d a rd /w elc o m e .h tm l. 12 Plat B ook 1, p.176, M ad iso n C ounty, A labam a. 13 D eed Book Z Z, p.466; D eed Book BBB, p.273; D eed B ook 90, p.192, M adison C ounty, A labam a. 14 D eed Book XXX, p.213; W ill Book 5, p.516, M ad iso n C ounty, A labam a. 15 D eed Book YY, p.483; W ill Book 4, p.576; D eed B ook 166, p.375, M ad iso n C ounty, A labam a. 16 D eed B ook BB, p.98; D eed Book PP, p.612, M adison C ounty, A labam a; C h ris E dw ards an d Faye A xford, T he Lure and Lore o f Lim estone C ounty (T uscaloosa: P ortals Press, 1978), pp. 168-169. 17 E lizab eth H u m es C h ap m an , Changing H untsville, 1890-1899 (H u n tsv ille: H isto ric H untsville F o u n d atio n , 1989), pp.63-65. 18 C o rp o ra tio n Book 2, p.473, M ad iso n C ounty, A labam a; S an b o rn Fire In su ra n c e M aps 1913, 1921 a n d 1928; H untsv ille, A labam a, C ity D irectories 1931-1932 an d 1940. 19 Plat B ook 1, p.91, M adison C ounty, A labam a. 20 Plat B ook 1, p.209 a n d p.225, M ad iso n C ounty, A labam a. 21 Plat Book 1, p.264 a n d p.323, M adison C ounty, A labam a. 22 Plat B ook 1, p.318, M ad iso n C ounty, A labam a. Luke M atthew s o f M adison C ou n ty | 49 Luke M atthew s descen dants a t Cotton Hill, June 2005. B ottom : Jim Shackleford, Dr. H arry Porter, Jr., Eleanor Streit, Ben M atthew s IV; M iddle: Dr. John M atthew s Ennis, Cissie Chrisco; Top: Michelle, Troy and Ross Shackleford. Dr. H arry Porter, Jr., Eleanor Streit, and Cissie Chrisco pose w ith a fa u x Lily Flagg a t Gladstone Place, the dairy where Lily Flagg was raised in 1892. Photographs by Ralph Allen. Officers for 2005 Jim R ountree C hairm an Vice C hairm an D onna Castellano Secretary Jeanne Steadm an Treasurer John Cline M ike Holbrook Ex Officio (past chairm an) Staff A n n ette Philpo’t E xecutive Director Joan Brunson A dm inistrative Asssistant Store Director, Harrison Brothers Lynne Berry Board of Directors W ayne L um pkin Delia Black Lauren M artinson Aggie Carter N ancy M unson A m y Creech Louis D urnya Judy Perszyk Sarah Hereford R andy Roper M ary Rutledge D elphia H ill Jean Templeton N ancy Horgen W alter Kelley Ex Officio Lynne B erry Kyle D avis M a ry Gray D avid N u tta ll Richard Van Valkenburgh 51 Historic Huntsville Foundation Since 1974, th e F o u n d a tio n h as w orked to preserve a rc h ite c tu ra lly a n d h isto rically significant sites a n d stru c tu re s in H u n tsv ille a n d M ad iso n C ounty. T he F o u n d atio n ow n s and operates H a rriso n B ro th ers H ard w are; ow n s and leases th e H arv ie Jones B uilding; operates a w areh o u se o f a rc h ite c tu ra l artifa c ts a n d m aterials for reuse in h isto ric p reserv atio n ; p u b lish es The H istoric H untsville Q uarterly o f Local Architecture a n d Preservation, th e 2001 w in n n e r o f th e A labam a H isto rical C o m m issio n ’s E x cep tio n al A chievem ent A w ard, a n d The Foundation Forum , a q u arterly new sletter; h o sts an a n n u a l m em b ersh ip tea in a rc h itec tu rally significant hom es; reco g n iz es people w ho have m ade n o tab le c o n trib u tio n s to h is to ric preserv atio n ; p rovid es c o m p lim e n ta ry in fo rm a tio n a n d c o n su lta tio n o n th e tax credits available for th e re sto ra tio n o f h isto ric in c o m e-p ro d u c in g p roperty. H H F fu n ctio n s have in clu d ed A R ooftop A ffair; The M oveable Feast; H appy Days at the Russel Erskine; “Through the Garden G ate” b o o k p u b lish in g p a rty ; O ldFashioned Trade D ay on the Square; an d m em b e rs-o n ly events at p rivate h o m es an d buildings. O n -goin g projects include re h a b ilita tio n o f h ouses in th e L incoln M ill Village, fu n d ed by an a p p ro p ria tio n fro m C o n g ressm an B ud C ram er; stab ilizatio n a n d p lan developm ent for th e M em p h is & C h arlesto n freig h t d ep o t, w ith fu n d in g p rov id ed by C o n g ressm an B ud C ram er; an d m ark e tin g th e F o u n d a tio n ’s b o o k “Through the Garden Gate: The Gardens o f H istoric H untsville,” p ro ceed s fro m w hich w ill e sta b lish an en d an g ered p ro p ertie s fu n d . H istoric H untsville Foundation — 2005 Membership Form □ In Fa m d iv id u a l o r il y $ 3 5 -$ 4 9 □ S p o n s o r $ 1o o - $ 1 4 9 □ N on -P r o f it □ S e n i o r (6 5 O □ Pa t r o n $ 5 0 - $ 9 9 □ B e n e f a c t o r $ 150 r g a n iz a t io n an d over ), I n $25 an d up □ B u s i n e s s $ 10 0 d iv id u a l o r Fa m il y $30 M ake check payable to H isto ric H u n tsv ille F o u n d atio n . M em b ersh ip dues in excess o f $16 (value o f su b scrip tio n to pub licatio n s) are ded u ctib le as a ch aritab le c o n trib u tio n . N a m e ................................................................................................................................................................ (as it should appear on membership records) A d d ress C it y E -m ......................................................................................................................................................... ...........................................S t a a il A d d ress te ............................................. Z ....................................................... T M ail to: H isto ric H untsville F o u n d atio n 124 S outh Side Square H u n tsv ille, A labam a 35801 A n n e tte P h ilp o ’t, Executive D irecto r H isto ric H untsville F o u n d atio n 124 S o u th Side Square H u n tsv ille, A labam a 35801 T elephone: 256/539-0097 E -m ail: preserve@ hiw aay.net ip ................................................... eleph one ................................................... Historic Huntsville Foundation 124 South Side Square Huntsville, Alabama 35801 Help save Huntsville’s treasures. Call 256/539-0097.
© Copyright 2026 Paperzz