Unit GH16
Creatively cut hair
using a combination
of techniques
What you will learn:
Maintain effective and safe methods of working
when cutting
Creatively restyle women’s hair
Provide aftercare advice
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Unit GH8
Creatively cut hair using a combination of techniques
Cutting angles, baselines
and guidelines
Unit GH8 Shampoo, condition and treat the hair and scalp
Now that you have looked at all the cutting techniques,
you need to familiarise yourself with the effects you will be
creating by cutting angles. They fall into two main types:
layering and graduation. You will no doubt be familiar with
the terminology, but do you fully understand the difference
between the two? Firstly, you will layer most haircuts,
except for one-length cuts. The most common layering
technique is the uniform layer – this is where the hair is
cut at a 90-degree angle to the scalp and is cut to the
same length all over the head, as shown in the illustration
below.
layers, this is known as reverse graduation. For this type of
graduation, the cutting angle will fall anywhere between 45
to 90 degrees, again, depending on the amount of graduation.
Examples of these are shown in the illustrations below.
Increased and reverse graduation
Hair cut in a uniform layer
Remember
Graduation is when the hair is cut to varying lengths
throughout the haircut. For example, the layers on top may
be quite short but through the back they are substantially
longer; this is known as increased graduation. To achieve
increased graduation you need to over direct the layers
through the back and sides, pulling them all over to the
shorter length guidelines at the top. The cutting angle will
fall anywhere between 90 to 180 degrees depending on
the amount of graduation. Alternatively, when the layers
through the top are much longer than the underneath
It is extremely important that throughout the cut you are
aware of the cutting angles you are using, as they will affect
the finished shape and balance of the hair. Not only is this
important, but you must be accurate in the way that you
section the haircut. It is not always necessary to start at the
back, but be sure to section off the hair and follow neat and
even sections throughout the cut. Good sectioning will allow
you to follow your guideline and ensure that no areas are
missed. This also looks professional to the client. It is also
important to take clean sections to ensure you achieve the
desired effect.
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Creatively cut hair using a combination of techniques Unit GH4
Salon life
Poor consultation
Be professional
Never skip over detail during consultation – really listen
and take the time to fully understand your client’ s
requirements and to ensure she understands what is
achievable and the likely outcome.
Build the time for a thorough consultation into your
pricing structure – if you have to charge slightly more
because of the time taken it will be worth it in the long
term to ensure you professionalism is maintained.
Use as many visual aids as possible during
consultation – if your client cannot find a photo of
a style they like then try sketching a look for them.
Alternatively invest in a computerised system that
allows you to show the client how their new style will
look on them before taking the plunge with a restyle.
Ask the professionals
Q What is the key to an effective consultation?
A You must have excellent communication
skills, both verbal and non verbal. If you are
able to get your point across accurately and
really listen to you client’s requirements,
also noticing facial expressions during the
discussion then you can ensure an effective
consultation.
Perm and neutralise hair
Today I had a new client come into the salon. I had a quick chat with her
about how she wanted her hair to look before she went off to be shampooed
by my assistant. Although I hadn’t met her before we were happily chatting
away about her job and as I came to cut the sides of her hair I asked her,
‘Would you like your hair cutting over your ear?’ and she just said, ‘yes’.
Then she gasped and looked horrified so I asked her what was wrong
and she was really upset saying that I had cut her hair too short over
her ear and that she wanted her hair to come over her ear so that she
could keep them covered. She was quite distressed and said that she always
thought her ears where too big and that she was really conscience of them. I
couldn’t apologise enough and I felt terrible as I would have to continue the
cut knowing how much I had upset her. I know that what I did was really
unprofessional and the client said she will not come back to the salon again!
Unit GH4
Somone’s story
Q What will good consultation techniques do
for your salon image?
A If a client is very happy with their look then
they will tell their friends; any discussion
outside the salon about you is important for
building a good and professional image of
your salon and your ability as a hairdresser.
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