SUMMER 2003 $2.00 Volume Volume 22 Number Number One One Published Published by by the the Columbia Columbia County County Historical Historical Society Society IN THIS ISSUE: Take a Close Look at Warren Street PAGE 7 Hudson’s South Bay— Landscape and Industry PAGE 10 The Private Community of Willard Place PAGE 14 A Hudson Album PAGES 18 & 19 News of the Columbia County Historical Society PAGE 20 History Around the County PAGE 24 Collections Highlights PAGE 26 A Visit to Hudson in 1890 PAGE 27 Hudson’s History A Bibliography PAGE 28 The Columbia County Court House PAGE 29 Columbia County Historical Society Events Calendar PAGE 31 Early Hudson’s Proud History PAGE 3 Batchellor’s Bazaar, between 2nd and 3rd Street, north side of Warren Street c 1870 Columbia County Historical Society A Message from the President Columbia County HISTORY HERITAGE & T he first issue in our second year of publication and, as you can see, bigger than ever! What a great job we feel our energetic editor, Jim Eyre and his staff have done, not to mention the dynamic graphic design work of Ron Toelke. How grateful we are to them and to all the contributing writers and advertisers who have made this publication possible. And how grateful we are to the most important people in the equation, our readers, whose enthusiastic acceptance and continued encouragement inspire us to try to make each issue more enlightening than the last. In this number we embrace the broad sweep of history in our county seat, the City of Hudson. Not always the county seat, not always a city, Hudson’s story illustrates the vagaries (or are they really the ineluctable trends?) of history itself. It’s a fascinating story, with dark moments and light, with uncertainty and progress and with the promise of a happy ending — at least in our time. As the historical society of all of Columbia County, CCHS has much material in its collections from Hudson and about Hudson. And as a historical society, we take great delight in the current renaissance of this long unappreciated gem of a small city.The silver lining — in the cloud of economic vicissitudes Hudson survived — is that there was not the incen- COLUMBIA COUNTY HISTORICAL SOCIETY BOARD OF DIRECTORS Stephan M. Mandel President John B. Carroll Vice President Woodruff L.Tuttle Treasurer Russell Pomeranz Assistant Treasurer Beth O’Connor Secretary Dr. David William Voorhees Assistant Secretary www.cchsny.org Arthur Baker George N. Biggs, III Albert Callan Nancy Clark David Crawford Joan K. Davidson Henry N. Eyre, Jr. Mimi Forer John Hannam Willis Hartshorn Timothy Husband Brian Kelly Julia Philip Richard Ryan Samuel O.J. Spivy Colin Stair S TA F F Sharon S. Palmer Executive Director Helen M. McLallen Curator Ruth Ellen Berninger Educator Carla R. Lesh Registrar/Assistant Educator Rita Laffety Membership Juanita Knott Administrative Assistant A Message from the President continued on page 21 Editor’s Preface Any attempt to include all of the City of Hudson’s history in thirty-two pages would be doomed to failure. There is just too much to tell. Therefore the reader of this issue of our magazine will find omissions both in content and in periods of time. With more space we might have written more about the venturesome individuals who founded Hudson, the artists, the writers, about music and theater, or about the politicians and the captains of industry. We could have described Hudson in its days as a major agricultural center and market. We could have told about the layers of dust from cement plants that — for many years — daily filled lungs and coated leaves, darkened fields of snow, and left a powdery film on cars and household furniture in the city and for miles around it. We could have told more about steamboats, the river trade and ice boating in winter. We might have talked about prostitution on the infamous Diamond Street, or the depression years and prohibition. Or we could have given praise to the Hudson’s brave and daring soldiers who fought so well in all of our many wars. And, also important, we could have chronicled our city’s recent renaissance as one of New England’s largest antique centers. It might well be that we will cover each of these subjects in a future issue. Until such time, however, we highly recommend that you visit the “History Room” on the second floor of the Hudson Area Library at 400 State Street. You will find a treasure of information there and personnel willing to assist you. We hope that in this issue we have given you a glimpse of Hudson and the way it was in its early days and how it developed through the efforts of an industrious and inventive people into a major port and gateway to New England. We feel that though all cities may have a story to tell, Hudson’s is unique. We always welcome our reader’s comments and suggestions. Also, we encourage those who wish to submit articles on our county’s history to contact us. COLUMBIA COUNTY HISTORY & HERITAGE EDITORIAL BOARD Editor Henry N. Eyre, Jr. “Jim” Around the County Julia Philip Editorial Committee George N. Biggs, III,Albert S. Callan, Joan K. Davidson, Mimi Forer, James P. Hamilton, Stephan M. Mandel, Mary Faherty Sansaricq, Dr.Will Swift, Susan Gerwe Tripp, Dr. David William Voorhees Design and Production Ron Toelke and Barbara Kempler-Toelke Ron Toelke Associates, Chatham, NY Columbia County History & Heritage is published by the Columbia County Historical Society and is mailed to all members of record at the time of publication. Copies may be obtained, as available, at $2.00 per copy from the Society offices at the Columbia County Museum, 5 Albany Avenue, Kinderhook, New York, 12106; 518-758-9265; www.cchsny.org Hours: Monday,Wednesday, Friday 10:00 a.m. – 4:00 p.m., Saturday 1:00 – 4:00 p.m. Call for expanded summer hours at 518-758-9265. Jim Eyre Editor 2 Columbia County Histor y & Heritage Summer 2003 Early Hudson’s Proud History By Craig Thorn IV Phillips Academy Andover, MA Editor’s Note: Craig Thorn IV is a teacher of English at Phillips Academy in Andover, Mass., and is the son of Craig Thorn III, a member of one of the old families of Hudson. The original of this article has been framed and hangs in the entry hall of Proprietors Hall, a building on Seventh Street constructed by his father. In the planning of this building the architect was requested that his design follow as closely as possible the lines of the D.A.R. house at 113 Warren Street. We commend this effort. We have taken the liberty of making a few small changes and additions to the article for its best use in the magazine. n September 27, 1609, Henry Hudson’s ship, the Half Moon, ran aground on an alluvial island directly across from what are now the docks at Hudson. Friendly Esopus Indians, most likely the Minnisinks, plied him with “stropes of beads”. Hudson described the surrounding land as “…the finest for cultivation that I ever in my life set foot upon, and it also abounds in trees of every description.” Nearly half a century later, Jan Frans Van Hoesen purchased the grant that still defines much of Hudson (today) from the Mohicans who battled the Mohawks for river rights until they found themselves on either side of America’s fight for independ- O The Proprietors resolved without debate or dissent, to change the name of the settlement from Claverack Landing to Hudson… ence. The lands descending by primogeniture for another century, it came to pass that relatives, Peter Hogeboom (a son of Van Hoesen’s granddaughter) and Colonel John Van Alen (married to a descendent of Van Hoesen), ran the two primitive wharves that established “Claverack Landing,” forerunner of the present day Hudson. Early settlers in Claverack Landing and the surrounding area were principally farmers, but some were also engaged in fishing in the Hudson River. The area was filled with “…luxuriant fields of indigenous white clover…” which gave rise to its name, the Dutch word for clover being klauver and the word for field being rachen.Around the early 1780’s Claverack Landing consisted primarily of the two rude wharves, described above, on piers with small storehouses connected to these. There was a ferry operated by Conrad Flock there and a watermill for grinding grain. However, this was all to change radically in 1783, when four “sober, undemonstrative Quaker men” arrived at the obscure landing place. Their prosperous whaling businesses jeopardized by the British tariffs after the View of the City of Hudson by Guy Wall c. 1820; a dramatic vista of the Catskill Mountains looms in the distance. 3 Revolutionary War, these four men represented a group of families from Providence, Newport, Nantucket and Edgartown who wanted to move their enterprises to a more sheltered location. In short order, the leader of this group, Thomas Jenkins, Esq., purchased properties from Hogeboom, the Van Hoesens and the Van Alens. He was a spectacularly successful businessman who, unbeknownst to his associates, had every intention of building an entire city. Sensing the importance of the venture for themselves and their families, they called themselves “The Proprietors” and drafted articles of agreement that insured total commitment among their number. “That each and every one of the proprietors shall settle there in person and carry [there] his Trading Stock on or before the first day of October, a. Dom., one thousand seven hundred and eighty-five”. Upon the arrival of his fellows, Jenkins called a meeting in which all the streets— including Front, Second, Third, Union, and State— were laid out as well as the promontory now known as Promenade Hill. Many of the families arrived with premade houses. On November 14 1784, The Proprietors resolved without debate or dissent, to change the name of the settlement from Claverack Landing to Hudson, over the objections of then governor George Clinton, Columbia County Historical Society who “was much displeased at their disregard.” Under The Proprietors, Hudson grew from a small settlement to a full city in very short time. In two years there were two shipyards, ship-carpenters, caulkers, riggers, ship-smiths, sail-makers, numerous water lots for sloops from Europe and South America, and goods bearing the mark of “exotic parentage festooning the marketplace.” There were soon a wide variety of new businesses, such as: West Indian and New England Rum, Iron, Salt, and Dry Goods; Green and Mansfield, merchants in dry goods; other merchants Cotton Gelston and Schubael Worth; Dilworth’s spelling books; Bunker and Easton, tanners; Latham Bunker, blacksmith; John R. Bolles, saddler; Dr. Levi Wheaton, the town’s first physician; Webster & Stoddard, printers; Thomas Worth’s Silk & Stuff Shoes; Peter Field, watchmaker and jeweler; Dennis Macnemara, tailor; Ezekiel Gilbert, lawyer; Titus Morgan, ship-builder; a brewery which brewed “Hudson’s Ale;” and James Robardet,“instructor in the polite accomplishment of dancing.” A school was soon opened after the arrival of The Proprietors. There were public houses to accommodate the “many figures of foreign aspect,” seventeen all told, fifteen of which were jointly owned by The Proprietors and descendants of original settlers. In 1785 Ashmel Stoddard and Charles R.Webster commenced publication of a weekly newspaper, called the Hudson Gazette “…to be issued weekly at the rate of twelve shillings per year; money to be refunded to subscribers who were not satisfied with the paper.” In 1786, a circulating library was established with approximately 300 volumes. Subscribers to the library were permitted “…to keep books as long as desired, except books new, www.cchsny.org having agreed nearly unanimously that they had realized Jenkins’ vision of a thriving commercial community. Cotton Geltson, however, In less than a decade, the city enjoyed an international reputation, became the third port of entry and the third site of a bank in the state. and in great demand, which must be returned within one week.” In this span of time one hundred and fifty dwellings, wharves and shops were built. Truly The Proprietors had performed a remarkable transformation in a very brief period of time. In 1785 The Proprietors won their petition before the State Assembly to have their town fully incorporated and enjoy the rights of a city in the State of New York. “A prison being a necessary appendage to a city government,” the governing council, Seth Jenkins presiding as the town’s first Mayor, built a gaol, and began city hall on the corner of Fourth and Main. In 1790, Hudson was made a port of entry. In less than a decade, the city enjoyed an international reputation, became the third port of entry and the third site of a bank in the state.The citizens enjoyed one of the few postal offices in the state. They published their own currency.They had their own constables. They had taxes. Those first taxed to finance the nightwatch were ancestors to families living in the county today: Allen, Plass, Decker, Hallenbeck, Hathaway,Worth, Paddock. Two years after Jenkins died in 1808, the Proprietors Association disbanded itself, resisted the decision to dissolve the organization and had to be restrained in his attempts to forestall the transfer of all deeds and records to the common council. Gilbert Jenkins finally wrested the books from Geltson, who remained unassailably disconsolate despite the fact that as city clerk the deeds and records were to be turned over to him anyway. The Proprietors had made a city far more sophisticated than the farming community of Van Hoesen’s day. Oil works and other industries dominated the river view. Though the end of whaling challenged Hudson’s economic future, many of the men and women who lived in the city were direct descendants of the enterprising Jenkins and Van Hoesen clans. Furthermore, the opportunities to be found along Hudson’s bustling streets created ventures that anticipated the future of America’s small cities. The late 1840’s witnessed an industrial revolution in Hudson presaging the more dramatic change in America’s entrepreneurial spirit after the Civil War. Hudson would survive the challenges of history, remaining the commercial center of the county without losing its charm as the sheltered harbor of 4 charming vistas that first attracted The Proprietors to Claverack Landing. Hudson’s illustrious history of whaling bespeaks the resilience of the early American frontier businessman. Many of The Proprietors were whalers from Nantucket, including Stephen Paddock, the first in an extraordinary line of twentythree sea pilots.When Thomas Jefferson dealt the final blow to American whaling in 1807 by initiating an embargo in response to England’s blockade of France and Napoleon’s blockade of “all the British Isles,” Hudson sea captain Rueben Folger observed that “(the embargo) was a signal to the nation to heave to under bare poles; that the ship of state had been turned out of her course and yawed about by a lubberly helmsman, until the voyage was ruined and the owners half broken.” However, Hudson continued to look to the water, both its past rewards and future promise. Not four months before Jefferson’s ominous decree, the citizens turned out to cheer Robert Fulton’s Clermont as it churned upstream past Hudson docks. In New York and all along the river, ship’s captains had abandoned their vessels in terror and “fled into the woods” and upon seeing the “fiery monster” ladies fainted. In Hudson sloops fired their cannons and “raised huzzahs” to the triumph of “Fulton’s Folly”. The ladies waved handkerchiefs from the docks. It was a telling contrast to the reception Fulton and Livingston had received elsewhere. Barely a decade later, Hudson reestablished itself as a major port of entry with two steamboats of its own, the Bolivar and the Legislator. At the forefront once more, Hudson surprised Columbia County Histor y & Heritage many nay-sayers with the formation of a new association “having for its object the revival and prosecution of the whale-fishery.” The president of this new association was Laban Paddock, direct descendant of the original Paddock of Nantucket. It was called the Hudson Whaling Company and the founders came up with $300,000 to finance the construction of and financing for the Alexander Mansfield, which set sail on a cloudy day in June 1830. On March 29, 1831, the following report appeared in the Hudson papers: “Huzza for the Mansfield… has returned with a full cargo having on board 2,020 barrels of whale oil, 180 barrels of sperm oil and 16,000 lbs. whale bone. On Sunday evening she arrived at this place and safely moored at the company’s dock amidst the loud huzzas of the citizens, and the firing of cannon… The Mansfield will be immediately refitted for a second voyage…. Such is the spirit of the young men in this vicinity that there are already more applications for berths than will be wanted to man her.” In three years there were fourteen ships built and launched in Hudson, including the James Monroe, George Clinton, and America which brought in $80,000 worth of sperm oil, the most “valuable cargo brought to our hamlet ever.” However as whaling succumbed to more economic ways to obtain the same materials, Hudson remembered the vision of Robert Fulton’s steamboat, and despite cries that the enterprise was a “manifestation of insanity” the “railway agitation” among Hudsonians was so strong that the citizen themselves began their own company. While larger firms in New York, Connecticut and Massachusetts bickered in the courts over road rights, the Hudson Gazette proudly reported that three days after opening the books for subscription to stock in the Hudson and Berkshire Railroad a total of $746,550 was subscribed, “an astonishing sum three times what was needed to open the railroad.” Those same families who first paid taxes nearly half a century before were among those who chiefly financed the venture: Allen, Power, Reed, Hallenbeck, Barnard and fittingly Paddock. A primitive affair of ordinary flat-bar iron and wooden stringers, the Hudson-Berkshire line was so uneven that one of the first lady passengers was instructed to tie a seat cushion to her hat. Nevertheless, in 1838, the citizens of Hudson turned out once more to greet the promise of a new future, yet another connection to the sea and the impossibly distant city of Boston. By 1841, the unbroken route between Hudson and Boston was opened, ending just south of the city’s great docks. Around this great connection, now establishing Hudson as the link between Boston and New York, the industries of the future found a home:The Hudson Foundry Summer 2003 and Machine Shop, The Hudson Iron Company, Hunt & Miller’s Stove-Foundry, The Clapp & Jones Manufacturing Company, The Phillips Spiral Corn-Husker Company, The Hudson Paper Car-Wheel Company, Herb’s Tobacco Factory, The Hudson Knitting Mill, Clark’s Clothing Factory, and the New York and Hudson Steamboat Company, originally founded by Captain Judah Paddock. A visitor wrote in the American Traveler that one “could hear the steady hum of new pulse in this inventive little town, the hum of engines.” Eventually, the HudsonBerkshire line was absorbed by a cooperative venture that became the Boston-Albany railroad.The line moved north to Chatham, but Hudson remained a major business center, reincarnated yet again as an industrial city inventing new ways to use steam engines and turbines in the production of goods. Hudson had been a quiet, rural agricultural community, a fledgling mercantile town, an exotic trading port of entry, a bustling whaling port and finally a growing industrial town.As pioneer farmers in those early times and venture capitalists in more recent times, Hudsonians always envisioned change as oppor- Hudson and South Bay in the early 19th century, seen from the Athens shore. 5 tunity. When the whaling industry faded in 1845, a cynic wrote in Random Recollections of Hudson“that the cause for quiet docks was the lack of liberality and enterprise in the citizens who, although possessed of sufficient pecuniary means, were afraid or unwilling to risk one farthing for the general good, having neither the public spirit or energy of character to employ those means to advantage.” He did not know Hudson’s past. He had not known the native Hudsonian, Andrew Brink, Captain of Fulton’s Clermont on its maiden voyage. He did not know the story of Jenkins, Gelston, Hudson, Van Hoesen, Hogeboom or Paddock. He never knew about the three thousand farmers who came to Hudson on one weekend in 1801 to deliver their goods to twentythree ships which were prepared to ship them all over the world. He never came to know the recurring theme of natives on Claverack Landing greeting new people and new ideas with huzzas and cannon fire. And he did not know Hudson’s future. He would never know about the town that built its own railroad. He could not know about Hudson’s role as a leader in the use of the river as a source for power in manufacturing. He didn’t know about the foundries and the iron works, the textile mills and tanneries. He could not know that by 1860 Hudson would enjoy the services of six banks, including The Hudson City Savings Institution, which opened its doors with $1,000,000 in assets in 1850 and which much later helped finance the building of Proprietor’s Hall on Seventh Street, which was constructed by this author’s father. Columbia County Historical Society www.cchsny.org New historic site panel to control city aesthetics Editor’s Note: We are reprinting this article as it appeared in the Independent because of importance that we attribute to the creation of a strong Historic Preservation Commission. We applaud the enactment of the new law and hope that the Commission will act forcefully to prevent the further destruction of the city’s fine buildings and architectural heritage. members: an architect experienced in the original methods of construction and historic buildings, a historian, a member of the Planning commission, a resident of the historic district, and a person who has shown interest in and commitment to preservation. The term of service on the commission is four years. Among the other powers of the commission are: • Adopting criteria to identify significant historic, architectural and cultural landmarks and delineating historic districts; • Conducting surveys of significant historical, architectural and cultural landmarks and historic districts; • Designating identified structures or resources as landmarks and historic districts; • Increasing public awareness of the value of historic, cultural, and architectural preservation by developing and participating in public education programs; • Making recommendations to city government for utilization of state, federal or private funds to promote preservation; • Employing professional consultants; • Recommending acquisition of landmarks when private preservation is not feasible. The Independent, Friday, June 13, 2003 By Diana Ladden HUDSON — A measure creating a commission to establish and preserve landmarks and historic districts in Hudson was signed into law Tuesday by Mayor Richard Scalera. Under the new law, no one who owns a building designated as historic, or lying in a defined historic district, can proceed with exterior work that could change the appearance of the building or the cohesiveness of the district, without the Commission’s okay. Any alteration, restoration, reconstruction, demolition or new construction—including painting the exterior—requires a Certificate of Appropriateness from the Historic Preservation Commission before a building permit can be issued. The seven-member commission will be appointed by the Mayor, but the law sets specific criteria for five of the seven Used with permission Taken from a story in the April 1941 CCHS Bulletin by Ruth A Sickles THE INDOMITABLE CAPTAIN COFFIN FROM NANTUCKET T he principal Yankee settlers of Hudson at the turn of the nineteenth century were Quakers, mostly whalers who left Nantucket after the British destruction of their industry during the War of the Revolution. One of the prominent families of old Hudson was the Coffins. There is an interesting story told of Captain Coffin, an honorable, belligerent man, who seems the perfect type of this great race of sturdy sailors. Since the Federalists had started party strife in Hudson, The Captain declared that it was up to the Democrats to finish it. Coffin, therefore, offered to be one of twenty men to meet twenty picked Federalists to fight the matter out. The Captain was undoubtedly sincere when he suggested this novel method of settling political difficulties, but fortunately it was not adopted. The old man was a man of strong political prejudices and a fiery temperament and was always ready for a fight. One election day, while he was at the polls, a dog passed between his legs causing him to fall. The Captain was unaware of the cause of his misfortune, and so naturally attributed it to some political opponent. Turning in a belligerent frame of mind, he shouted, “Come on, I can whip the whole d––n lot of you.” On another occasion, the story is told that a young man, who wishing to explain some matter then in dispute, laid his hand upon the Captain’s shoulder and requested him to step to the door. Mistaking the object of the demand he cried, “Yes sir — fist or pistols; don’t care a d––n which!” The absurdity of this reply evoked a hearty laugh, in which the Captain joined as soon as he saw his mistake. Under the direction of men like this and many other seafaring folk, Hudson became a noted port for shipping. It is quite generally believed that the ships of Hudson about the year 1786 were almost wholly engaged in whaling; this idea, although erroneous, probably arose from the fact that many of the proprietors were from the whaling port of Nantucket. Only a few of these ships, however, were engaged as whalers, and the greater part were busy with trade with the southern ports of the United States, Havana, Santo Domingo and Brazil. 6 Columbia County Histor y & Heritage By Bruce Hall Editor’s Note: Bruce Edward Hall is well known to many as the author of Diamond Street, a book which ably describes a different and equally famous aspect of Hudson’s history—one of prostitution, vice and corruption. This book is available for purchase at the Columbia County Historical Society Museum in Kinderhook. ight layers of wallpaper. Eight layers of thick, impenetrable wallpaper, some with two coats of paint and a crumbly layer of Spackle over that. Endless scraping and steaming and scraping and stripping in the spaces that became the kitchen,the dining room, living room, library, down the long center hallway, crawling up the stairs until one came to the spot where I finally gave out, and where the old wallpaper continued to hang until the day I moved out. People questioned the wisdom of buying the long-neglected townhouse at 239 Warren Street. It was 1982, the place hadn’t been lived in for years, and across the street, the Tainted Lady Lounge was still in full swing. “An attached house?”my sister-in-law wailed. You bought an attached house?” I pointed out that her suburban condo was attached, to which she snorted,“I don’t live in an attached house! I live in a condominium unit!” Still, I was seduced by the wistful forlornness of the old place, the proportions of the small, but stately rooms, the architectural detail that seemed to defy period. The Federal layout on the ground floor was accented with dark-varnished, late Victorian woodwork, an upstairs parlour had a set of magnificent Greek Revival pocket doors, while most of the bedrooms sported modest Federal mantelpieces. Then there was the façade, square and symmetrical, yet bursting E Summer 2003 Take a close look at Warren Street with bay windows, dormers, and sharp gables,unique to the block. And oh yes, further inducement was the purchase price of $14,500 (marked down $500 when the garage burned down the day before closing). But to get back to the wallpaper. As I scraped through the final layer on the kitchen sidewall, I was stunned to find a blocked-up window, which would have lead original exterior chimneys of my own house. A little research showed that the two neighboring buildings—one formerly an oyster house, the other the exclusive private hospital of one Dr. Abijah Cook—had been built in the 1850s. The lot my house stood on had been purchased by Proprietor Joseph Barnard in the 1790s, meaning that for possibly 40 or 50 years my now-attached house had With a little imagination one can still see Warren Street as the Proprietors knew it around 1800. directly into the house next door. Further down, a bricked-up fireplace opening was bisected by the wall now separating the kitchen and dining room. On the other side of the house, blocked up fireplaces were partially obliterated by the wall separating the library and the living room, and more oddly, by the current living room fireplace, which projected out from the wall in a huge chimneypiece, one of four interior chimneys in the building.These ghostly hearths had me stymied until I realized that they lined up with my neighbors’ chimneys—chimneys that had apparently once been the been blissfully unencumbered, a freestanding, foursquare Federal villa from the turn of the 19th century. A gut remodeling job in 1899 resulted in all those dormers and bays, plus new interior walls blocking the old hearths. Stepping out onto the street, I began to see that many of my “attached” neighbors may have been freestanding 200 years ago. Apparently, this busy, built-up thoroughfare had once been a quiet street of prosperous men’s homes, surrounded by gardens, fruit trees, and pigs, encouraged to roam and act as municipal garbage collectors.Who knew? 7 When the Proprietors arrived in 1783, the town they laid out had its commercial center on Front Street, a main road out of town in the form of Partition Street, and a couple of residential avenues, poky Union Street and the much grander Main Street, which after 1799 would be called Warren, after a popular Revolutionary War hero. Main Street was the broadest boulevard in the fledgling city, starting at Parade (later Promenade) Hill and petering out four blocks east at the deep gully which ran along what is now Fourth Street. Access to Main Street was somewhat restricted by rocky outcroppings on Front near Union, setting it apart from the rest of the town. It was the first street to have paved sidewalks (before which it was said that it cost two shillings to extract a lady from the mud) and the first street to be served by a municipal water supply. While other Hudsonians had to trudge down to one of the public pumps, Main Street residents could tap into a wooden water main fed by a spring further up the hill. In 1797 there were 126 people in the city who had estates worth at least £100, making them Hudson’s wealthy elite. With Main Street’s attractive amenities, it was only natural that these nabobs should choose to build there. With a little imagination one can still see Warren Street as the Proprietors knew it around 1800. Of course, it’s much easier to imagine their well-heeled lifestyle the closer one goes to the river. Urban renewal may have cost us some fine town mansions in the first block of Warren Street, but the north side of the street remains remarkably intact. It is a solid row of substantial Federal houses, start- Columbia County Historical Society www.cchsny.org ing with what was once an imposing, single-family threestory mansion at number 8, and ending with the flamboyant Greek Revival Curtis House on the corner of First. But other fine examples are hidden by years of abuse and “improvements.”For instance, across the street at 102 Warren, a good hard look reveals a handsome antique home, with its 6 over 6 windows on the attic floor. And The D.A.R. house at 113 and the Jenkins mansion then there are the obvious at 115 Warren Street. stars such as the D.A.R. house at 113 and the magnificent Jenkins mansion next door at 115. The exquisite 1805 Adams style First Bank of Hudson at 116 was a harbinger of the commercial future of the street, notwithstanding the fact that it went out of business seven years later. Despite all the Victorian fill-buildings, these freestanding landmark houses make it easier to visualize life in Hudson during the first Adams administration. Where such visualization gets tough is Warren Street’s 200 block. Across the street from my old place, there is the great, hulking gray Federal mansion at 244, still surrounded by garden, and as recently as 15 years ago, still sporting the original magnificent star-burst stenciling on the floors of the principal parlours. Once its windows were graced with shutters, and a decorative wooden cornice-board ran along its roofline. In the Built in 1805, the First Bank of Hudson lot to the east, where Ben Eaton’s nurs- was the harbinger of Warren Street’s ery is now, there stood, until the late commercial future. However, it went out ‘80s, half of a pair of Greek Revival town- of business 7 years later. houses, with elegant doors and eyebrow windows, surrounded by their own and roughly the same size as 244. It has greenery.To the east of that, there are the been heavily renovated over the years, foundations of an L-shaped brick house, with entrances moved and commercial which burned down in the 19th century. windows added, but it seems as though Its replacement burned down in the this could have been another free-standmid-20th century, (along with one of the ing town mansion of the late 18th cenpair of townhouses). Old-timers remem- tury, festooned with an impressive entryber the surviving townhouse as the way, window shutters, and a decorative home of the barbershop where Legs cornice board of its own. And Diamond used to come for a shave and a in the westernmost of the buildings, haircut, shades tightly closed, armored number 222, one can still see a lovely Packard at the curb. early fireplace inside, served by a masTo the west of the gray Federal man- sive chimneystack, bespeaking its origision now stands a row of apparently nal role as a gentleman’s home. nondescript buildings. But looking at Next door at 216–218 stands the long these structures, one notices that the neglected side-by-side building, which is easternmost of them is made of brick, at last undergoing a welcome renova- 8 tion. It started out as a singlefamily house, the palatial residence of Thomas Jenkins, one of the original Proprietors. Good Quaker that he was, Mr. Jenkins couldn’t resist the old maxim,“If you’ve got it, flaunt it,” and was roundly criticized for the supposed ostentation of his home. One is reminded of the stately, three-story brick mansions of Newburyport, Massachusetts, with their gently hipped roofs and black shutters, stunning in their simple elegance. Later in the 19th century, part of the house was incorporated as “The Misses Peakes Seminary for Young Ladies.” In the 20th century, another kind of young lady was in mind when “The Tainted Lady Lounge” was opened in a cheap brick addition in the front yard. Next door, 212 looks like a farmhouse dropped from the sky, and in 201 Warren, which has been much abused over the years, one can still make out the plain, Federal edifice that it once was. The 300-block of Warren Street is the hardest place to pick out the gems.This block was difficult to build on in the early days. Deep gullies transversed the street with some early builders forced to build wooden gangways to reach down to the ground. A bridge was built over the deepest gully, with the street ending at Fourth where the plain city hall and jail stood across from each other, a simple footpath continuing on towards Claverack and beyond. Still, there were some magnificent houses in this block as well, all of which are unfortunately long gone. The elaborate, high style Federal mansion at 308, was torn down in the 1930s to erect a utilitarian building for Sam’s Market. And the exquisite house across the street where there is now a parking lot eventually housed the somewhat notorious Lincoln Hotel. As the 19th century progressed, commerce and hubbub came to Warren Street.The roadway was leveled off with bridges and landfill, allowing it to be extended, making it the principal commercial street of the town. Gradually the side yards and gardens were filled in with merchants’ houses of the 1840s and ‘50s. Elegant hotels, banks, and an opera house took advantage of the traffic. The Columbia County Histor y & Heritage 200 and 300 blocks became the center of Hudson’s medical establishment. Abijah Cook built his private hospital at 241 in the 1850s, Dr. Benson constructed his imposing mansion at 306 in the 1880s, and in 1877, Dr. Logan caused a stir when he removed a giant tapeworm from one Mrs. Sarah McGuire in his office in one of Thomas Jenkins’s former bedrooms at 216–18. It was put on display at the Opera House where “the reptile… was alive for over an hour after it was removed from the lady.” But one thing that is great about Hudson is the many layers of the past still visible for those who know where to look. The little city on the river has gone through a myriad of reinventions and image transformations over the last 220 years. Like the wallpaper in my old house, as each layer is peeled back, a new pattern is revealed, and who knows the scope of surprises lurking the closer one gets to the beginning. Summer 2003 216–218 Warren Sireet, once the palatial residence of original Proprietor Thomas Jenkins — later the Misses Peakes Seminary for Ladies. In 1877 Dr. Logan removed a giant tapeworm here from Mrs. Sarah McGuire and in the 20th century the front yard was the site for the “Tainted Lady Lounge.” Of the Night Watch and the Town Crier By Mary Faherty Sansaricq anuary in Columbia County brings frigid cold air and bitter winds that turn the hamlets and towns into desolate and quiet byways by the river and the mountains. With the fallen darkness, folks are happy to stay by the safe and warm comfort of their home hearths secure in the knowledge that they are protected. In the late 1780’s the cold weather nights were often a time of fear and dread for the residents of Columbia County. Hudson was a growing seaport with whale ships and sloops that traveled the world over. Seamen and traders from Ireland, Turkey, Africa, South America, and the Indies came in and out of Hudson daily. Robberies and rowdy drinking were frequent, and the city was not yet equipped with padlocks, window latches, or safes. It was on January 5th in 1788 that a group of Hudsonians, with the approval of the Common Council, voluntarily joined into a “Night Watch” to protect against thieves and fires, and to preserve and protect order in the city during the night. The Night Watch consisted of four cit- J izens for each night to begin at 9 o’clock in the evening and continue until daybreak. Jonathan Worth was appointed by the council to notify each citizen in turn from the roll of residents at least 12 hours before he was to come to The Watch. Each Watchman was provided with a large oak club that he would bang against the walkways (mostly plank wood) or hitching posts calling out the hour and “all’s well.” The Watch was empowered to interrogate any person out at an unreasonable hour and to confine any suspect in the Watch House until the following morning. One such Watchman who found favor with the Common Council was appointed Town Crier. His name was Jemmy Frazer. The Town Crier would walk through the streets of the town, ringing his bell, and calling out the news and the hours. A story is told of how Jemmy, “who loved his glass of grog, and was happier, it is said, with two than with one,” was called upon to help the Bank of Columbia located at the foot of Warren Street. James Nixon, the first cashier, working late one night lost the key to the Bank. Afraid to call attention 9 to the situation, Nixon told Jemmy to cry the lost key through the streets of Hudson without letting on that it was the key to the Bank that was lost. Jemmy had been up much of the night in the lower wards hanging with the boys, giving his speeches, and enjoying his grog. So, as he made his round through the streets calling his “Hear ye, hear ye, lost at night a large key,” his mind was foggy and somewhat confused. One of the boys, always happy to taunt Jemmy, asked him, “what sort of key was it?” Jemmy cried out in his tipsey state, “Go to the Devil, and I tell ye that, ye’ll be after getting into the Bank with it!” After the next gathering of the Common Council, who regularly met in the various public houses, Jemmy lost his commission. The offices of the Night Watch and the Town Crier continued on for many years and the citizens of Hudson long enjoyed the sense of personal security these watchers and criers gave on cold winter nights. Reprinted with permission from the Columbia County Weekly Shopper. Columbia County Historical Society www.cchsny.org Hudson’s South Bay LANDSCAPE AND INDUSTRY By Don Christensen t the time of Hudson’s founding in 1785, the open waters of South Bay covered some 110 acres. This tidal estuary of the Hudson River and its companion bay on the other side of Hudson—North Bay— along with the river itself on the west all but encompassed the new city in water. From the beginning, the water surrounding Hudson served a dual purpose. It defined a natural landscape beauty that was fully appreciated at the moment of the earliest settlement in the area, and it provided the means to pursue commerce. While landscape beauty and commercial potential was seen in all the waters around Hudson, South Bay attracted particular attention in both regards. The view across South Bay from Hudson offered a stunning vista of Mt. Merino rising at the south shore of the bay with the Hudson River and the Catskill Mountains in the background framing the scene in an almost idealized mixture of landscape features of water and varying mountain heights. In the mid-19th century virtually every Hudson River School artist would paint some version of this scene. Literally hundreds of different interpretations of this vista have been done -seen in oil paintings, watercolors, drawings, lithograph and chromolithograph reproductions, photographs, postcards A Detail from Columbia County Historical Society’s Penfield Map, 1799. Originally the City of Hudson extended out into the Hudson River with deep bays north and south.As this maps shows, however, the outer edges of the bays were already being filled in to widen the waterfront for commercial purposes. ties for cargo boats to shipbuilding and sail making. One early commentator claimed that the ships moored in South Bay were so plentiful that you could walk from one to the next across the entire width of South Bay without ever setting foot on land or water. One early industrial and even reproduced in the 1830s on a set of Staffordshire China dinnerware. At the same time, South Bay was continually being rethought for commercial use. At first, the deep waters of the Bay offered a calm harbor for every sort of maritime activity, from docking facili- View Near Hudson. C 1820. Lithograph after watercolor by William Guy Wall (1792-1865?). Irish artist William Guy Wall captured this view of South Bay, Mt. Merino, the Hudson River and the Catskills from a vantage point that is today Third Street and Allen Street in Hudson. The road leading down to the bay is today’s US Rt. 9G — then the Highland Turnpike, opened in 1806 and maintained as a toll road until the turn of the century. 10 use of South Bay included leather tanning. The name of the street that once edged the north shoreline of South Bay, Tanners Lane, provides lasting evidence of the importance of the tanning business in the early years of Hudson’s development.Tanners Lane can still be visited today; it is lined by many of the street’s original buildings. As Hudson grew, land owners of the dock areas on the Hudson waterfront started filling in portions of both South and North Bays to expand their warehouse and docking capabilities.The 1799 Penfield Map of Columbia County in the collection of the Columbia County Historical Society shows that the waterfront edges of the city had already begun to extend into the bays. Since Hudson was the last place on the Hudson River with a natural water depth sufficient to accommodate oceangoing ships, it became the virtual last stop for many ships to unload cargo to be transported by shallow-bottomed boats and land wagon to other destinations north. (The Hudson River wouldn’t be dredged to accommodate large ships toward Albany and Troy until the 1920s.) The competition for attracting docking fees in South Bay was fierce. It is perhaps one of the reasons that, when in 1837 the residents of the countryside area of Hudson successfully petitioned to form their own town, they included the south shore line of South Bay in their new town and tried to attract Columbia County Histor y & Heritage ship owners into using the harbor docks in that area by naming the town for this commercial use—the green port. The formation of Greenport split civic ownership of South Bay in two,and the first railroad leading from the river’s edge to the inland area of the state was built across the north edge of South Bay. The Hudson and Berkshire Railroad, which was first operated in 1838, was built on a trestle across the bay, cutting off Tanner’s Lane from navigable access to the bay and the river. Initially, this rail line reached West Stockbridge, Massachusetts (and an iron ore mine there). Later it was extended to Pittsfield and Boston. Today the same rail line is used for rail traffic to the ADM Mill in Greenport, leading from the river and traveling through the public park at Seventh Street in Hudson. (When the railroad was first built, the waters under the open trestle were maintained. The two parts of the bay were referred to as Big Bay and Little Bay. By 1890, however, the trestle had been filled in and Little Bay became the sold land mass seen today.) Any success that the dock owners in South Bay may have enjoyed in the first part of the 19th century was abruptly ended when the Hudson River Railroad (today’s Amtrak path) was constructed in 1851 across the mouths of both South and North Bays. Apparently there was very little resistance to the closing of navigable access to South Bay. Like other river communities, Hudson was anxious to be a stop on the north/south railroad. In addition, the proposal to build across the bays was made during a depression in the 1840s that almost bankrupted the Hudson/Berkshire Summer 2003 Mount Merino and South Bay, c. 1840. Unknown Painter. This early oil painting of South Bay and Mt. Merino is in the collection of the Columbia County Historical Society. It follows the "classic" composition that innumerable artists would follow in countless other interpretations: The waters of South Bay in the foreground, Highland Turnpike (today’s Rt. 9G) to the left, Mt. Merino in the middle ground, the Hudson River and Catskill Mountains on the right in the near and far distance. Railroad; the owners of that railroad—mostly local Hudson businessmen—hoped that the direct connection with the Hudson River Railroad would improve their fortunes.And it did. At this point, the industrial development of South Bay increased rapidly. First, the Hudson Iron Works received a “grant of land underwater” in 1855 from the State Legislature to fill in several acres of the river on the west side of the new railroad. The Iron Works was built on these lands “reclaimed from the water” and remained a dominate presence on the Hudson waterfront until it went bankrupt and was torn down in the late 1890s. Later, the area of the river first filled in for use by the Hudson Iron works was taken over by Atlas Cement for its dock facility and is today owned by St. Lawrence Cement. Waste material from the Iron Works was Clew Staffordshire China, produced 1829-1836. The scene on this plate was based on Wall’s interpretation of South Bay and Mt. Merino. The China set featured eight scenes of the Hudson Valley after the work of Wall. 11 poured into South Bay throughout the second half of the 19th century. The resulting land fill was later occupied by a variety of factories—from a knitting mill to a glue factory to wheel manufacturer and others—all clustered around the convenience of rail and river shipping capabilities. As the industrial activity within South Bay increased, its role as a defining natural landscape feature declined. Few artists found inspiration from the South Bay/Mt. Merino viewshed after 1880, although postcard images of the view looking south down Bay Road (today’s US Route 9G) were produced through the 1920s. One of the most significant impacts on the waters of South Bay was the construction of a second railroad bed running east and west through the center of the bay. Approved by the people of Hudson in 1874, following nearly 20 years of opposition to similar proposals, the railroad linked the waterfront and the Hudson River Railroad to stone quarries of Fred W. Jones at Beecraft Mountain two miles from the river. Prior to the building of the railroad the stone was carried by mule-pulled wagons through the streets of Hudson to the river’s edge. The Jones railroad was approved after assurances that it would be built on an open trestle and occupy less than 16 feet of width through the South Bay waters to protect what remained of South Bay. Although approved in 1874, the railroad was not completed or used until 1889. By 1900, the rail bed had been filled in and widened to nearly 80 feet with only a culvert opening between the north and south portions of the bay. Jones’ Columbia County Historical Society South Bay Road and Mt. Merino. Postcard. C. 1900. By the time the photograph was taken for this postcard, the river’s edge and the Catskill Mountains were cut out of the picture to avoid recording the massive industrial use of South Bay. Vegetation can be seen growing within the Bay in this postcard image, showing the effects of silting fill into the bay. stone quarry business went bankrupt in 1900. In 1903 the Hudson Portland Cement company acquired the combined property of the bankrupt Hudson Iron Works and the bankrupt stone quarry and railroad to establish the first cement producing operation in Hudson and Greenport. By the beginning of the 20th century, the constricted waters of South Bay had begun to deteriorate rapidly and began taking on the characteristics of a shallow swamp that can be seen today. In the 1920s, dredging waste from the clearing of the Hudson River channel to Albany and Troy were deposited on the Greenport shoreline of South Bay. Throughout the 20th century, all of the factory buildings built on fill in the South Bay during the 19th century were abandoned. In the early 1980s further fill was made into South Bay for the construction of a facility for the furniture manufacturer L&B Industries. While today the actual waters of South Bay bear little resemblance to the images we see in the artistic interpretations of the Hudson River School artists of the 19th century, traveling south down Rt. 9G still offers an impressive open view of Mt. Merino and the Catskills in the background. Hudson Iron Works and South Bay. C. 1895. This photo shows the peak of 19th century industrial use of the waters of South Bay. All of the area shown as land up to the doorstep of the house at the bottom with the Dutch-style roof was originally open water. (This house still stands.) 12 www.cchsny.org Columbia County Histor y & Heritage By Patricia Fenoff, Hudson Historian green and weathered bronze statue of St. Winifred keeps watch over the City of Hudson and the river from a rocky promontory called Promenade Hill. A saint of Welsh origin,Winifred has been called by some the Patron Saint of Mariners. Indian dugout canoes, Dutch sloops, whalers and sealers, and most of the steamboats had disappeared from the river traffic before St. Winifred took up her vigil by the Hudson River in 1896. Today, the only mariners that pass beneath her watchful eye are the seamen on the tankers, tugs, barges and the occasional Coast Guard cutters that ply the river from New York City to the Port of Albany and those operating the many and varied pleasure craft. The statue of the Welsh saint was not originally created to stand watch over this city. But, before we look at how her likeness came to be here, let’s look briefly at her life. Legend has it that Winifred, more than any other Welsh saint, was known and venerated outside her own country. But, oddly, there were no written records about her until 500 years after her death. This fact has led some authorities to assert that she may have never existed. According to Butler’s account, Winifred’s father was a wealthy man. His wife’s brother was St. Bueno (Buenno), who lived nearby, and who was a great influence on the young Winifred. She spent many of her early years listening to her uncle’s teaching and seemed destined for a religious life. We are informed, Butler continues, that a young man, Caradog by name, a chieftain from Hawarden, had fallen in love with her. Finding it impossible to gratify his desires, he became enraged. And one day he pursued her, as she was fleeing from him to take refuge in the church that St. Bueno had built, and cut off her head. In an account by Prior Robert of Shrewsbury’s Abbey, the earth then swallowed up Caradog’s body, and a spring sprang forth at the very point where Winifred’s head fell.The maiden was raised to life again by the prayers of St. Bueno, who set the severed head upon her shoulders where it healed at once, showing only a scar. Winifred eventually left home to enter the nunnery of Gwytherin in Denbighshire and later was chosen to be the abbess at St. Eleri, where she died 15 years after her “miraculous resuscitation.”A spring called St.Winifred’s Well is located in a place called Holywell by the English and Treflynnon (Welltown) by the Welsh. Many cures and pilgrimages have been recorded at this site over the year. While the events surrounding the history of the real Winifred remain A Summer 2003 clouded in mystery, much more is known about the placement of her image in Hudson overlooking the river. From the Hudson City Minutes, we learn that the Proprietors voted on March 9, 1795 to set aside that “certain piece of land, known by the name of Parade, or Mall, in front of Main street, and on the banks fronting the river, which should be granted to the Common Council forever, as a public walk or Mall, and for no other purpose whatever.” According to Stephen B. Miller’s “Sketches of Hudson” this mall remained in an “unimproved condition for many years except for the addition of an octagon shaped refreshment house called the Roundhouse.” In 1834, the area was improved with proper walks and the Roundhouse, “which had become a nuisance” was removed. After some lengthy deliberation the park was given its present name, “Parade Hill.” One local source notes that during the height of the Victorian era, the word “Parade” seemed too common, so numerous strollers began referring to the area by its alternative name,“Promenade Hill.” General John Watts DePeyster had become owner of Lower Claverack Manor through his grandfather, John Watts, and as such was called the “Last Patroon.” He was a resident of Tivoli. According to the history of that village written by Richard Wiles, the general purchased “a plot of land 25 feet square south of the church (St. Paul’s Episcopal) which allowed him to indulge in his penchant for erecting monuments.” It was one of his practices to select and purchase a site and then offer a statue to be erected. One of the gifts or monuments ordered by General DePeyster was the $10,000 statue of St. Winifred created by sculptor, George E. Bissel, in Paris. It was intended to be a gift to the Methodist Church of Tivoli and to be surrounded by a fountain of running water.The fountain was not part of the gift, and since the Methodist congregation did not have the funds to provide the water supply, they declined the offer. The general who delighted in erecting memorials was not deterred by the action of the Methodists, and promptly offered the bronze statue to the City of Hudson. Hudson’s Public Works Commission gave $2,600 to provide water for the fountain, and work began on the base and pedestal when the statue arrived from Paris in May of 1896. Saint Winifred Continued on page 31 13 Columbia County Historical Society www.cchsny.org The Private Community of Willard Place By Dr.Will Swift or a glimpse of Hudson’s 19th century aristocratic heritage, head south from Warren St. on Third Street, take a left on Allen Street and the first right by St. Mary’s school into Willard Place where six grand Victorian era homes, ranging from Tuscany-style to Second Empire to Colonial Revival styles, form a privileged enclave far from the bustle of Warren Street. There were originally eight homes, but the elegant Second Empire mansion at 1 Willard Place was torn down in the early 1950’s, and the similar home next door (#2) was also removed in the 1970’s. C. Van Rensselaer in his 1887 pamphlet Historical Reminiscences of Hudson, NY & Vicinity says that Willard Place “received its name from the original proprietor [Henry A. Willard] of Willard’s Hotel, Washington D.C., of world wide reputation.” According to Van Rensselaer, Mr. Willard was a guest for a time in the Scovill Mansion adjacent to Willard Place. Mr. Willard briefly considered retiring to Hudson and purchased a large plot of land in Willard Place, which he owned from 1864 to 1867. Based on the strength of the transportation, iron and textile industries, and its place as the county seat for government and legal professionals in the 1870’s, Hudson entered a period of increased F prosperity.This is exemplified by the elaborate rebuilding of the façade of Warren Street’s First Presbyterian Church. Many Irish immigrant families, who had arrived in Hudson only one generation before, prospered and moved onto the main Front Street. In response, the established families, descendants of the city’s Nantucket founders and the early Dutch settlers, moved uptown to create exclusive neighborhoods. Influenced by a nationwide movement to create aristocratic enclaves in the midst of a burgeoning democratic society, and by the lawlessness of the city, some of Hudson’s wealthiest and most prominent citizens wanted a private, gated neighborhood of their own to rival New York City’s Gramercy Park and Sutton Place. Surprisingly, Hudson was also a hotbed of crime and prostitution. In September 1869 the editor of the Hudson Evening Register decried the unsafe situation in the city:“The fact is, murderers, robbers, pickpockets, assassins, and criminals of every dye are invited to operate in our city by the inducements of dark streets, an inefficient police force, and a frail structure for the keeping of prisoners. It is useless to attempt to conceal the fact that there is no security for life or property in our midst…”After a series of daring Warren Street robberies shocked the public in 1872, Hudson’s penurious residents finally funded a municipal police force and developed a private citizen’s organization to help clean up the city, which the Hudson Republican called “the most lawless city on the River.” A period postcard showing Willard Place with five Victorian homes on the right leading to 8 Willard Place at the end. 14 According to Bruce Hall’s Diamond Street, criminals had full reign at night; the street lamps were still only lit when there was no moon, and then only until midnight. In 1876 Hudson was fired up when, just before Christmas, brothel owner Johnny Kiere killed Charles Hermance, who was trying to rescue a friend’s fifteen year old wife from a whorehouse on North Second Street. A near riot broke out as Kiere was arrested. Though he tried to pin the murder on his wife, a madam of the house, Kiere was sentenced to a lifetime of hard labor in a sensational trial,which captured Hudson’s lurid and unruly spirit On April 1, 1872, the Hudson Register announced plans for Willard Place, conceived as a private, gated community. It was described as “the most important improvement that has been projected in this city for twenty years;” and one that would realize all its projectors contemplate.” Civicminded attorney and real estate agent Willard Peck, who served as police justice, postmaster and who reformed the school system as a member of the board of education, placed regular front page advertisements in the Register. He sold the corner lot at Third and Allen to lumber yard owners William I. Traver and his son William H.Traver.The lot would “open a street fifty feet wide… to terminate upon the brow of a Columbia County Histor y & Heritage hill with a park [Willard Park] one hundred and fifty feet square, handsomely adorned with trees and shrubbery, with circular carriage way around it.” There would be fourteen “handsome lots... designed to erect handsome villa houses… the sites are most eligible and sightly on the Hudson River.” Willard Place was inaugurated on April 10, 1872 in a ceremony conducted by the Travers,Willard Peck, and attorney Herman Esselstyn. At the junction of Allen Street and Willard Place, there were wrought-iron gates to keep out undesirables. Only four blocks away on Diamond Street (now Columbia Street) there were many houses of ill-repute. Several decades earlier the brothels had coexisted with the smells of the slaughter house and the oil and candle works, which used sperm oil and whale blubber. Thereafter, sandwiched in the Register between advertisements for vinegar bitters, to invigorate the stomach and cleanse the liver, Kennedy’s Hemlock ointment, Bachelor Hair Dye, and a book on Soul Charming, a guide to instant winning of love and affection, Williard Peck offered the “valuable building lots” on Willard Place. Later William Traver placed a notice in the paper offering the lot at what is now 8 Willard Place (originally 9 Willard Place before Hudson changed house numbers) for sale for $2600. Intriguingly, the lot remained unsold for eighteen years until Traver built on it himself in 1892.Willard Place was not as successful as its founders had projected. Not all of the fourteen lots were developed. The financial panic of 1893, set off by railroad, bank, and stock market failures, and the ensuing economic depression of the 1890’s caused Summer 2003 On April 1, 1872, the Hudson Register announced plans for Willard Place, conceived as a private, gated community. great economic insecurity. Citizens of Hudson were not immune. No further homes were built in Willard Place after 1892. One of the founders eventually lost his home. By the middle of 1875 two of Hudson’s leading society figures — Herman Vedder Esselstyn, a prominent attorney and surrogate court judge, and his wife Margaret — moved from the increasingly Irish neighborhood around their Front Street home. They built a three story house at 5 Willard Place. It William Traver’s Second Empire home at 1 Willard Place. It was torn down in the 1950s. was in the Second Empire style, the most fashionable design used in America in the 1870’s and 1880’s. Then, wealthy American families copied the elegant homes being built along the newly constructed grand boulevards in Paris under Napoleon III’s Second Empire. The window lintels are Gothic or elaborately carved. Over a projecting front bay, a tower extended above the mansard roof, but both were destroyed in a 1939 fire and not rebuilt. The two lower floors remain today. The entrance hall has an elegant curved staircase, which is said to be one of the most beautiful in Hudson. By 1887 Esselstyn’s career foundered. In May of that year he mortgaged the house for $4,500 and was unable to pay the mortgage when it came due in 1892. Starting a series of lawsuits, he bought two years reprieve before the house was sold at auction on the steps of the Court House for $5,166.73 in 1894. Herman Esselstyn, eulogized by the Hudson Gazette as “one of the most brilliant of lawyers,” died five years later leaving an estate valued at less than fifty dollars. In 1989 Meg Mundy, the British-born stage and television actress, bought the home and renovated it during the decade she lived there. Both William I. and William H. Travis mentioned above ran a lumber yard producing household woodwork and molding. A collection of letters William H. Traver wrote to his son Charles during a European trip in 1891, show him to have been a well-spoken, thoughtful and sensitive man who was a keen observer of his environment. He was the epitome of the 19th century small-town version of a self-made man: he parlayed success in his wood-working business into a job as the • Graphic design • Publication design/production • Packaging design/production • Book design/production • Institutional development materials • Integrated promotional strategies • Working with local, regional, and national clients since 1982. Individual and couples therapy 30 years experience Voice: 518 392-3040 Fax: 518 392-3121 PO Box 253 Chatham, NY 12037 www.toelkeassociates.com 15 Columbia County Historical Society President of Hudson City Savings Institution and a political career, serving as the mayor of Hudson. Traver moved his family to a Second Empire mansion at 1 Willard Place, which St. Mary’s church tore down in the 1950’s and replaced with St. Mary’s school. Traver also built a two and one-half story Colonial Revival style home at 8 Willard Place for Charles, his eldest son and business partner, in celebration of his marriage to Grace Boynton, daughter of a Warren Street boot and shoe maker.The rectangular house with its gambrel roof, pierced by three shed roofed dormers, was built over the course of a year commencing in November 1892. The facade features a frieze of swags of bell-flowers mounted with decorative ribbons. Fluted pilasters define the corners. The paired double sash windows on the first floor and the bowed second story triple window have ornately detailed cornices. On the steep hillside behind the house there is an elaborate turn-of-the-century woodland garden. In the heyday of the enclave, there was a carefully manicured park (Willard Park) within the circular drive in front of the house. The center-hall house served as an advertisement www.cchsny.org bathroom has an original, built-in, zinc-lined, copper bathtub. The house has only had three owners. It was rented from 1946 until 1955 until Charles Traver’s daughter sold it to a pharmacist and his wife, who in turn, sold it to the current owners, Don and Jo Christensen in the 1980’s. Because Willard Place was privately owned until 1969, the city did not provide services like snow removal; there were neither utility poles nor sewers on the street. Most likely in order to obtain city services, the owners petitioned the city council to purchase the street and its park, which the city bought on May 15, 1969. The original gates, for the William Traver & Son planning mill and woodworking plant, which was later known as Griffin’s Supply. On the first floor there is elaborate beaded oak woodwork in the formal front parlor, the back library and the entry hall, which also has the kind of decorative Delft-tiled fireplace that only wealthy families could afford. The library features a built-in seat under a windowed bay looking out toward the famous view of Mt. Merino and South Bay, which Hudson River painters so favored. Around the ceilings in the second floor bedrooms there are decorative wood moldings, different in every room. The third floor The Charles Traver House built by William Traver in 1892 for Charles, his son and partner in business, on the occassion of his marriage. 16 enclosing the street, had been removed in the early 1950’s when St. Mary’s school was built. A new owner is restoring the Second Empire style frame house at 4 Willard Place, formerly divided into apartments, into a one family home.Today, for the first time in sixty years, and reflecting Hudson’s new era of prosperity, all of these grand homes are once again single family residences. The current residents are worried that the proposed development of the former gardens of the Scovill mansion (more recently known as the Martin residence), which is adjacent to Willard Place, will compromise the integrity of the neighborhood. They fear building on the left side of Willard Place will spoil the magnificent cul-de-sac and a viewers trip back in time. Dr. Will Swift has just finished a joint biography of the Roosevelts and the British Royal Family to be published next spring by John Wiley&Sons. The Roosevelts and The Royals tells the story of the Roosevelt dynasty and the British Royal Family from the 1880s to the present. It highlights their friendship, which helped restore British-American relations, and save democracy during World War II. Columbia County Histor y & Heritage Summer 2003 TRAVELING FACILITIES OF HUDSON: 1846 Steamboats and Hotels This is an old time article as it appeared in waves of adventure, they care not whiththe Columbia Washingtonian newspaper, er. Our neighbors in the States East of us, Hudson, N.Y., May 14, 1846,Vol.V, No.3, and along the line of the great “Western Whole No. 211,William Rockwell, Editor Railroad” are our brethren. They still he steamer Hudson — This popu- enjoy a view of the scenes of our early lar boat has come out this spring years, and we still are brethren, and we most tastefully painted and orna- meet as such. mented, by that skillful artist, Mr. Ary, of The Hotels of Hudson, too, deserve a our city. Her extensive accommodations passing notice. We have ample accomand conveniences, her cabins, saloons and state-rooms have now elegance and beauty added to the real home comforts which they presented last season. Her officers were “never better”! Capt. King needs but to be named to bring pleasant recollections to the mind that may seen in the countenance of every traveler to the “great city” from this quarter of the modations in these for every grade of country.The steward gives just that kind travelers. Hudson may well boast her of evidence of his unwearied attention Hotels Those in the upper part of the and skill in his department which one city, the Eastern House by Mr. Martin, and loves to witness, as you gather around the Columbia House by Mr. Rogers, are the richly furnished board, amid the well known establishments, obliging cheering steam of “Golden Chop,” “Old pleasant landlords who are truly what Hyson,” and here and there a richer per- are called good-hearted clever fellows. fume that tells of “Java’s Isle,” of “Mocha’s Their accommodations are convenient Shore” and then Pleasant as travel by steamboat often the friendly recogwas, it was not without its hazards! nition and the pleasant chat,while every want is anticipated by the faithful, busy waiting ones around. Every evening in the week, except Sunday, passengers embark for New York, either in the Hudson or the Fairfield, no less accommodating, sure and safe, without fear of pickpockets or a rough and uncouth crowd gathered from the purlieu of our large cities, and floating on the “T Here we are happy to assure the public, “there is nothing that can intoxicate.” 17 for both men and teams. They both sell (we are sorry for it) pernicious beverages which ruin many of our fellowmen, and against the use and traffic of which we have waged an uncompromising war. The Mansion House by Mr. Bradley, is an old stand, too well known to require any notice here. It has long enjoyed a very extensive patronage, and has fine accommodations, and as many comforts for the weary traveler or his horses as can be found anywhere; and is a landlord that will never do worse than he says.At any rate, it is a favorite principle with him “That every man should mind his own business.” He does it and therefore his business is well done. The Hudson House by Mr. Bontwell [is] A large commodious establishment affording genteel accommodations for travelers and visitors. Families from the South and from our large and crowded cities find here a pleasant retreat from the dust and bustle and heated bricks of their own haunts. Mr. B. is extensively known as a liberal, generous provider. Attentive and polite, his house has long been the resort of gentlemen and ladies from all parts of the land. These last two also keep the “spirit of mischief,” but as if aware of its evil tendency it is not exposed to view, except when “called” for. The National Hotel by Mr. D. B. Stranahan, late of the Kinderhook House. This is a new house, just opened, on the Continued on page 25 Columbia County Historical Society www.cchsny.org Hudson River Trust Company, c1875; building demolished. Warren Street, between 3rd and 4th Street; City Hall Place and Opera House at left. For a time City Hall and the Police Department were located in the Opera House. Ferry steamer George H. Powers, the ferry boat that traveled between Hudson and Athens, late 19th century. Park Square, Warren Street and Park Place, late 19th century; the statue of Venus and the fountain stands in the center of the park. Looking down Columbia Street from Academy Hill, mid 19th century; the Federal period house on left was demolished by Columbia Memorial Hospital for a parking lot. Waldron House (left) looking down Warren Street from 1st Street, c1860s; most of these buildings are gone. 18 Columbia County Histor y & Heritage Laying cobblestones on Warren Street between 4th and 5th Streets, late 19th century. Summer 2003 Looking south from Warren Street, with Christ Church and the Parish House, late 19th century. A HUDSON ALBUM Images from the Rowles Studio Collection, Courtesy of Historic Hudson “BusinessDock” area between 6th and 7th Streets (across from Park Square), looking west down Warren Street, 1868. 19 Columbia County Historical Society www.cchsny.org New at The Columbia County Historical Society Museum By Julia Philip THREE TOWNS JOIN IN HISTORY EXHIBIT A small model of a Hudson River icehouse now stands just inside the entrance to the exhibition room at the Columbia County Historical Society’s Museum on Albany Avenue in Kinderhook. It is an important part of “Around Columbia County,” the first in a series of exhibits the Society is mounting in collaboration with town historians. This first installment was created by the town historians of Clermont, Germantown and Livingston to show the agricultural and industrial heritage of the southern part of the county. On the wall to the right of the gallery hang examples of the tongs, grappling hooks and two-man saws that were used to harvest ice from the river.This was an essential industry before the days of refrigerators and refrigerated cars and trucks. Facing the entrance a flail, two hay forks and a saw are displayed. These were used to harvest hay and other grain crops that were the basic fuel for horse powered machinery and transportation in the early 19th century. Barrel and box making frames and packinghouse equipment for the fruit producers of the county are displayed with photographs of a horse drawn spray rig at work in an orchard. A photograph of the mine entrance at the Burden Mines in Linlithgo, the mine payroll box and a large piece of iron are the reminders of this industry that was dominant until the mid-1800s.There are photographs also of the brick kilns along the river and samples of old county-fired bricks. All of the items displayed come from the collections gathered and maintained by town historians — Mary Howell of Livingston who is also county historian, Anne Poleschner of Clermont and Marguerite Riter of Germantown — as well as several private collections. Ruth Ellen Berninger, educator, Sharon S. Palmer, executive director, and Carla R. Lesh, registrar/assistant educator, of the Columbia County Historical Society, mounted the exhibition. It will remain in the Museum gallery through November 22nd. MUSEUMS IN THE CLASSROOM The fourth grade class taught by Stephanie Bell at the Martin Van Buren Elementary School has produced the exhibit that greets visitors at the entrance to the exhibition galleries at the Society’s Museum in Kinderhook. The students chose a theme of simple machines — the lever, the inclined plane, the screw, the pulley — and have demonstrated them in a collection of ingenious (and sometimes almost “Rube Goldberg”) inspiration. There are working models to show these machines in action. They raise a flag, move a theater curtain, lift wood planks, and return a mechanical car to a starting point. Others of the 23 children in this class have made posters illustrating the theme of simple machines. The exhibit is the product of the “Museums in the Classroom” program created by Ruth Ellen Berninger, the Society’s educator, assisted by Carla R. Lesh, the Society’s new registrar/ assistant educator. This school program, sponsored by the Society for the past three years, involves over 200 students each year from the third and fourth grades of several elementary schools in the region. AN EXHIBIT OF PHOTOGRAPHS FROM ARTHUR BAKER’S NEW BOOK A strikingly impressive collection of photographs from Mr. Baker’s book, Wooden Churches: Columbia County Legacy will hang in the CCHS gallery through November 22nd. The book is reviewed elsewhere in this publication, and is available for purchase in the Museum Shop.The Museum is now open Monday through Friday from 10 am to 4 pm and on Saturdays from 1 to 4 pm. • THE 1737 LUYKAS VAN ALEN HOUSE • The 1737 Luykas Van Alen House, Route 9H, Kinderhook, NY, is open for the summer season: Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. and Sundays from 1 to 5 p.m. Visit the grounds of this National Historic Landmark and tour the site with informative guides before the house undergoes a year or two of restoration work. Funded by the federal “Save America's Treasures” grant, the New York State Environmental Protection Fund, and other donors, the restoration will focus on the roofing system, brickwork, site drainage, and archeology. Don’t miss the opportunity this summer to visit this outstanding surviving example of rural Dutch architecture. Over ten years ago, filming for “The Age of Innocence” took place at the site. Group tours may also be arranged by calling the Society’s office at 518-758-9265. 20 Columbia County Histor y & Heritage Summer 2003 News of the Columbia County Historical Society A Message from the President continued from page 2 THE SOCIETY NEEDS YOU tive, in a less enlightened age immediately past, to “modernize” most of the city. We are therefore able to enjoy urban streetscapes like Warren and Union Streets with a remarkable stock of period architecture. In this issue we hope to bring that architecture to life. It has always been our intention that this be a magazine of local history with broad appeal (if we are not fulfilling that intention, let us know), rather than a conduit for Society news. During 2002, when it was our only publication, we felt compelled to include important Society news and we will continue to do so. But to a lesser degree, leaving more room for real history, for we are now beginning a supplementary publication, a members’ newsletter, The Bulletin of the Columbia County Historical Society. Members can expect to find it in their mailboxes three times a year. The Columbia County Historical Society depends upon volunteers to help it in its many endeavors.We are seeking individuals with experience and interest in any of the following areas to contact the Society and volunteer their time and effort. Don’t hesitate to contact us even if you think that your background is not suitable. We can explore with you our needs and your interests to determine how best you can help us. If you are skilled in typing and/or inputting materials into computers, you could help us manage and catalogue our collection. Museum or archival experience would be helpful. Please call Helen McLallen, Curator, at 758-9265. She will be happy to discuss in more detail the type of assistance needed and what is required. We need people who have an interest in either writing or presenting educational programs to help the staff Educator in this important outreach effort. If you have an interest in developing such programs or working with students, please contact Ruth Ellen Berninger, Educator, at 758-9265. Finally, the Society can use help handling a wide variety of tasks in its library and office at the Museum in Kinderhook. If you would like to assist us in these areas, please call Sharon Palmer, Executive Director, at the telephone number shown above. Stephan M. Mandel President Board of Directors Our Mission he Columbia County Historical Society is a private, not-for-profit organization dedicated to the preservation and interpretation of the history and culture of Columbia County for its residents and visitors. It is the Society’s goal to encourage understanding, knowledge, and preservation of the county’s heritage through the acquisition and conservation of historic lands, buildings, objects and documents, and the sponsorship of research, publications, exhibitions, and educational programming. To help achieve its mission, the Society owns, maintains, and interprets to the public, buildings and collections of historical significance, and operates a museum that includes exhibition galleries and an extensive research library. T Columbia County History & Heritage is interested in hearing from you — if you have articles, pictures, or other items about Columbia County history and cultural heritage suitable for publication, please let us know. The Editorial Board will review all submissions, and all submissions considered for publication are subject to editing.We regret that we cannot guarantee publication. Want to advertise your business in Columbia County History & Heritage? Call 518-758-9265 for more information. 21 Columbia County Historical Society www.cchsny.org WHAT HAS HAPPENED TO VENUS ? By Pat Fenoff Editor’s Note: Pat Fenoff enjoys the title of HUDSON HISTORIAN and is a very knowledgeable and capable local goverment official appointed by the Mayor of Hudson. She has been most helpful by reviewing the articles in this issue for accuracy. The words below are taken from an article found in the Hudson Gazette, dated August 2, 1883: HUDSON PUBLIC FOUNTAIN Now that the beautiful fountain in the public park is nearly completed and our citizens have enjoyed the sight of “Venus Rising From The Sea,” exhibiting in the most effective manner the power of our water supply, and proving that it can be put to ornamental as well as useful purposes, it is proper to speak in detail of this work of art, and award credit to those who were chiefly instrumental in procuring it. The total height of the fountain, including the foundation is eighteen feet. The pan is gargoyle octagon, eight feet five inches above the base, diameter of pan, eight feet eleven inches. The ground basin is twenty-five feet in diameter. The foundation is of Coral Marble, handsomely cut, from the quarries of Supervisor Fred W. Jones, and was donated by that energetic and public-spirited gentleman. The foundation is capped by a fine slab of Vermont marble, which was generously donated by Mr. Patrick Hoctor, of the Hudson Granite and Marble Works. From this rises the base surmounted by the figures all in graceful proportion and artistic design. But to be fully appreciated, it must be seen when the water in full force is playing through its numerous jets and rising and falling in fantastic forms. Mr. D. Martin Haviland is entitled to much credit for his persevering efforts in securing to the city not only this beautiful fountain, but also the handsome park in which it is located. One of the most unsightly spots in the city has within a few years been converted into one of the most attractive. In this enterprise Mr. Haviland’s efforts have been generously seconded by the Boston and Albany Railroad Company, by the action of our Common Council, by the contributions of citizens and by the local press. At the outset we said the fountain was nearly completed. It only lacks the finishing touches of the artist brush. This we understand, Mr. Silas W. Tobey, the veteran artist, has volunteered to do, and this assurance is sufficient guarantee that the work will be well done and in keeping with the fountain and it’s surroundings. or 89 years, as an ornament to the city and a monument to public minded citizens, Venus, flanked by her accompanying dolphins, reigned majestically in the park and was very much appreciated by adults and children alike. In June of 1974 the statue was painted blue by Charles Rogers Jr. of Stockport, Mass. and was cleaned. In 1975 Inspiration Fountain was added to the park and the statue of Venus was moved to a new location at the Columbia Street and North 7th Street end of the park. F 22 Then in 1978 it was damaged by two vandals. The statue was removed to be repaired by Robert Allen of Ghent who was at that time affiliated with a museum in Albany. It was returned to its site in November of that year. The cost of the repairs was $800, paid by the vandals. It was again removed from the site by Mr. Allen for repairs in October of 1978 after being severely damaged by a drunken driver. It was returned to the park in 1980. In 1978 Roderic H. Blackburn, then Assistant Director of at the Albany Institute of History & Art, estimated the statue’s value at $3000–$5000. He wrote that the statue appeared to be a late 19th century or early 20th century scuplture modeled in the academic tradition of the Beaux Arts style. He claimed that it was of high quality and worthy of being preserved and properly restored. Suffering from continued damage at the hands of children who played on it, the statue of Venus was removed by the city in recent years and has not been returned to the site. It is hoped that the city still has the statue — that it will be repaired and returned to a spot where it can be again enjoyed by public minded citizens but protected from damage. Columbia County Histor y & Heritage Summer 2003 Book Review: Wooden churches Columbia county legacy A Book by Arthur A Baker Stephan M. Mandel ith painstaking and meticulous care and attention to detail Arthur Baker has most successfully captured and chronicled the elegant and silent beauty of Columbia County’s wooden churches. In the days prior to radio and television, these churches, most of which were built in the nineteenth century, served not only as centers for worship but for meetings both political and social. It naturally followed that religious groupings and their clergy played powerful and important roles in the development of rural and city governance.This book gives one the opportunity to better understand their influence and appreciate the fine buildings that housed them. The book is published by the Columbia County Historical Society, and was supported in part by grants from Furthermore, a program of the J.M. Kaplan Fund, and The Graham Foundation for Advanced Studies in the Fine Arts. The large format publication features duotone photographs of all 63 extant old wooden churches in the county. It contains an incisive essay by local historian Ruth Piwonka that reveals the manner in which both the nation’s and the county’s closely meshed religious and secular history not only influenced the growth and development of the various faiths, but also everyday life in the community. Basic historic and architectural data relating to each church illustrated is numerically keyed to the photographs and the church locations on the included Columbia County Church Location Map. The historic data were verified and augmented by many of the county’s town and church historians. Ron Toelke Associates of Chatham designed the book. A resident of East Taghkanic, Arthur A. Baker states in his introduction,“Columbia County, New York is endowed with a rich heritage of wooden church architecture which covers the full design spectrum, from the simplest vernacular shelter to imposing Gothic Revival structures. In microcosm, it exhibits the influences of the nation’s changing architectural styles, and the growth of the varied religious denominations. Collectively, the churches reflect a remarkably creative, diverse range of building design and form.” He also stresses that the wooden churches are an integral part of Columbia County’s visual heritage and form part of the continuum link- W 23 ing the past, present and future, and that their preservation is of paramount importance. Baker is uniquely qualified for this project.A distinguished architect who practiced in London, England and New York as the partner of such iconic figures as Sir James Stirling and Peter Eisenman, he has for some years been devoting himself to large format photography. This exhibition and book are the culmination of a project that began over ten years ago with a smaller exhibition at the County Museum. The churches have been photographed from a consistent frontal view, in a black and white format that encapsulates the essence of each structure, presenting it in a manner that emphasizes the church massing and silhouette rather than its denomination, location, period or architectural style. This approach enables an easy comparative analysis of the similarities and differences of the church designs. Critics who have seen the photographs and the book have been enthusiastic. “A skilled photographer, who trained as an architect, Arthur Baker has produced an historically significant record of the wooden churches of Columbia County. His calculated documentary approach enhances the visual and structural character of his subject, while in its entirety, Baker’s project underscores the importance of the cultural heritage that surrounds us.” Willis E. Hartshorn Director, International Center of Photography, New York “Just contemplating these wooden churches of Columbia County so serene and splendid, ranging from the all but invisible to the energetically Gothic in West Copake and the majestically classical in St. Thomas in Churchtown imbues one with peace and tranquility and a longing for a purer age.” Thomas P. F. Hoving Author, former Director of the Metropolitan Museum of Art The book is available for $24.95 ($22.45 for CCHS members) at the County Museum Shop and for $24.95 at other locations in the area. Columbia County Historical Society www.cchsny.org History Around the County BLUEBERRY DAY AT AUSTERLITZ Blueberry pies, blueberry muffins, blueberry jams, blueberry ice cream and even blueberry bushes to plant in your yard will be featured at the Austerlitz Historical Society’s Blueberry Festival on Sunday, July 27th. The event will be held at the Austerlitz Fire House on Route 22 from 9 to 4 o’clock. Blueberry pancakes will be served from 9 to 1 o’clock and are included in the admission fee of $5 for adults, with children under 12 admitted free. 19th century crafts will be demonstrated, and there will be a display of antiques and collectibles many of which will be for sale along with handmade gifts with a blueberry theme. Entertainment for children will include Roger the Jester and performances presented by Stageworks’ Summer Stage. Proceeds from this event will benefit the educational programs of the Austerlitz Historical Society. AUTUMN IN AUSTERLITZ On Saturday, September 20th, townspeople in period dress will greet visitors and offer them a glimpse of life in the community as it was in the 1830’s. Demonstrated will be many of the skills and tools needed to provide the necessities of life in that earlier time. The event will also provide an opportunity to see the progress made in reconstructing the MoreyDevereaux House on the site donated by Robert Herron. The building was transported from Nassau in over 3000 numbered pieces. The Autumn Soup Kitchen ANCRAM PLANS A THREE DAY BICENTENNIAL CELEBRATION will offer homemade breads and soups for sale as well as items from the gift shop and the Baker’s Table.Admission is $5 for adults with children under 12 admitted free. Under the leadership of Town Historian Clara Van Tassel Ancram’s Bicentennial Committee has planned a three day festival beginning with a chicken barbecue on Friday evening, September 12, 5 to 7 o’clock at the new Town Hall. Saturday morning boasts a flea market from 7 to 10 AM with tours of the Ancram Mill and the newly renovated Simon’s General Store from 10 to 2 PM followed by a show of antique cars. At 5 PM there will be a parade of fire companies from the area preceding the official dedication of the new Town Hall and observance of the Town’s bicentennial by state and local dignitaries. There will be refreshments available, a sale of raffle tickets and activities for the young. The day will close with a display of fireworks. On Sunday there will be an Ecumenical Worship Service at 1 PM at the tent at the Town Hall followed by an Ice Cream Social, tours of the Town Hall and the drawing for the raffle. FALL GARDEN PARTY AT STEEPLETOP An early autumn “Garden Party at Steepletop” will be held on the afternoon of September 20th from 3 to 5 o’clock by the Friends of the Millay Society at the home of the late poet, Edna St.Vincent Millay. The house,on a remote hilltop in Austerlitz, was named by the poet for the steeplebush, a tall pink wildflower that grows in the surrounding fields. Her home and its contents are virtually as she left them on her death in 1950 and include her personal library, music, clothing, shoes and household goods. Millay’s grave and that of her husband and her mother are located in a clearing in the woods a halfmile from the house. The autumn gathering will be the first major effort of the Friends Society to expand its membership and to support major preservation of the house and grounds so that in time they can be opened to the public. To reach Steepletop, turn off Rte. 22 at Austerlitz onto East Hill Road by the small town Post Office. Continue up the hill for 2.5 miles until you reach the house on the left across from the Millay Art Colony. For more information about the gathering call (845) 757-3214, (212) 777-0283 or (518) 851-7744. TAGHKANIC CELEBRATES BICENTENNIAL Banjo music by the Jug Band from 11 to noon and the Ghent Brass Band playing from 2:30 until 3PM will welcome visitors to the Taghkanic Town Bicentenial celebration on August 2, 2003 to be held on Route 82 at West Taghkanic. Displays of early Taconic baskets and historical documents are planned accompanied by displays of wood carving, basket weaving and blacksmithing as it was done in the time of the 24 town’s first settlement. These crafts and fly fishing will be demonstrated by expert craftsmen from the community. Town fire fighting equipment will be displayed.While Indian skills of fire building and survival are shown, a smoke trailer from the County Fire Association will demonstrate escapes from a modern burning building. There will be craft vendors across the highway, food for sale and a tent with entertainment and rides for children followed by fireworks at dusk at Lake Taconic State Park. Nancy Griffith,Town Historian, has been in charge of planning the event’s festivities. C ANAAN The Canaan Historical Society has announced plans for weekly informal Saturday afternoon programs to be held at the Meeting House at Canaan Center from 1 to 4p.m in July and August. • The first program on July 19th will concentrate on barns and be presented by Richard Babcock who is the author of Old Barns in the New World . •On July 26 the subject will be the Underground Railroad presented by Beverly Mills from Troy who has lectured about Harriet Tubman, the conductor of over 300 slaves to freedom. • Paul Marino, who has lectured extensively for historical societies in the Berkshires, will talk about old cemeteries on August 2. • On August 9, Jack Trowel, President of the Berkshire Scenic Railway, will talk about the rails that serviced and passed through Canaan to other towns and cities. • The Historical Society’s Meeting House and other his- Columbia County Histor y & Heritage Summer 2003 Traveling Facilities of Hudson, continued from page 17 south side of Franklin Square, but a few steps from the steamboat landing and the ferry. It is large and neatly and elegantly finished and furnished. The parlors are spacious and well furnished, and present an airy inviting appearance.The numerous lodging rooms are of good size and airy, not cramped, confined and unventilated—they have the look and aspect of health and purity. The comfort of the guests seems to have been the one object of the experienced occupant, while superintending the finishing of the interior of the building, and collecting the furniture for his commodious and handsome edifice. The beauty and extent of prospect from the windows of this house would furnish ample material for a volume descriptive of nature’s beautiful, picturesque, grand and sublime scenery.The artist might spend half a life in transferring to his canvass the extended landscapes here presented to his view. A more delightful place to while away the days of flowery Spring, or the weeks of sultry Summer’s heat we cannot conceive. Here we are happy to assure the public,” there is nothing that can intoxicate.” Mr. Stranahan has opened this new and pleasant house,A Temperance Hotel.” toric buildings will be the subject of David Snook’s presentation on August 16. • Archeologist Steve Oberon who is directing the digs at the Warner Tavern in Canaan will speak on August 23 about his findings there and at other sites. • On August 30 the Historical Society’s Meeting House will be open to visitors to explore this museum and its many artifacts and memories of Canaan in celebration of its 30th anniversary year. 851-9629 Thomas Holmes Terri Holmes Holmquest Farms Reprinted by courtesy of the Columbia County Historical Society Freshest Home Grown Vegetables Available Best Corn in the County 516 Spook Rock Road, Hudson, NY 12534 — or — Fairview Avenue, Greenport JOHN CAIOLA REMODELING, RENOVATION & REPAIR SERVICES FOR HOME AND BUSINESS 30 year’s experience, B.S. Construction Management VOICE/FAX 518-794-9158 East Chatham, NY 12060 • References upon request 25 Columbia County Historical Society www.cchsny.org Highlights from the Society’s Collections his unusual and visually appealing c1850 Hudson Business Directory was recently donated by David Johnson. The directory offers 25 local advertisements, along with information useful to business proprietors, such as railroads and steamboat lines, telegraph services, a map of the Hudson River from Troy to New York, and monetary and political information. Some of the businesses didn’t survive long; several were not listed in the 1851-52 Hudson directory, which was published in the more familiar book form. Others were long-term enterprises, enduring for decades. Stained and worn, particularly along the top edge, the directory would benefit from conservation so that it may be used in exhibits. Anyone wishing to support its treatment is welcome to call the Society’s curator, Helen M. McLallen, at (518)-758-9265. T Law offices of 441 East Allen Street, Hudson, NY 12534 Connor, Curran & Schram, P.C. (518) 828-1521 Fleet Bank Building, Chatham, NY 12037 Since 1959 (518) 392-3641 A Full Service Practice Emphasizing… Personal Injury • Automobile Accidents • Medical Malpractice Product Liability • Wrongful Death Civil Trial Practice • Business • Corporations • Real Estate • Medicaid • Title Insurance • Estate Planning • Wills • Trusts Earl Schram, Jr., Theodore Gutterman II, Nelson R. Alford, Jr., Andrew B. Howard, Jonathan D. Nichols, Paul M. Freeman, Virginia D. Smith 26 Columbia County Histor y & Heritage Summer 2003 A Visit to Hudson in 1890 By Mary Faherty Sansaricq or many years the city of Hudson was “one of the most beautiful and flourishing towns on the noble river whose name it bears.” Visitors came from all over because of the popularity of the mountains, the natural springs, and the rich and varied political and religious residents who attracted public attention and notoriety.Whether visitors were just stopping over or staying on for a while, Hudson had a great deal to offer the typical guest in 1890. Visitors to Hudson might stay at The Hotel Lincoln which was described in 1890 as one of the finest hotels on the Hudson River, supplied with all the modern improvements such as steam heat, electric bells, and electric lights. The Hotel Lincoln offered “handsome suites of rooms for gentleman and wife or families.” Other guests who did not require such select finery could find shelter at The Central House which provided “good rooms, good table, and good attention for commercial travelers and businessmen.” It is interesting to note how in 1890 hotel accommodations were advertised for gender and marital status, in addition to amenities. Shopping was a popular diversion in Hudson because of the variety of goods and services easily available due to the city’s position as an active international port.At Tilley & Aldcroftt at 401 Warren Street, overcoatings “of the smoother effect of meltons and fur beavers, and suitings and trouserings in a variety of fine foreign woolens are shown exclusively from the mammoth stock of novelties.” For the ladies, black dress goods were available at Guernsey & Terry on lower Warren including black cashmeres, brocade cashmeres, and silk and wool Henrietta cloths that are “jet black and color guaranteed.” For handmade clothes, Bachman & Co. at 601 Warren Street offered remnants of “one price goods marked in plain figures.” Boots and shoes in French kid, hog’s calf, pebble goat, alligator and calf kangaroo were featured at Wm. S. Hallenbeck at 533 Warren Street where “new styles of elegant designs in opera toe and common sense for ladies and misses will warrant a perfect fit.”Also rubbers made from pure gum, pebbled leg, artic Alaskas in light and heavy weight for both sexes and all ages. Nearby at 536 Warren, J.T. Rider offered the best in second- hand instruments that have been taken in trade and will be disposed of at a very low cost. And for reading pleasure, books could be purchased at S. B. Miller’s at 532 Warren Street. Ladies and gentlemen visiting Hudson could benefit from the tonsorial arts of Monsieur Hyacinth Lescure who offered “a choice lot of Essences near the Market House also, he would furnish cushions to the ladies, and queues to gentlemen of excellent human hair for which he would take his pay in wheat and Indian corn.” Monsieur Lescure is described as walking back and forth before his little shop door, humming a tune and snapping his fingers. It was said he served as a drummer under Burgoyne, and “his dress was in keeping with his person and profession; a broad striped calico gown, a short white apron, tight nankeen small clothes, ruffled shirt, completed with silk stockings and yellow slippers.” And at the end of a busy day in downtown Hudson, visitors could attend the Hudson Opera House presentation “for one night only the superbly lyric and scenic production of Newton Beers’ Lost in London with Miss Jessie Lee Randolph as Nellie and with the talented young character actor Sam C. Young, along with the celebrated North Britain Pan Pipe Singers who will positively appear! F Reprinted with permission from the Columbia County Weekly Shopper. The Main Street Cafe 3032 Main Street, Valatie, NY 518-758-9000 Breakfast • Lunch • Dinner Mexican Night every Wednesday Private Parties 27 Columbia County Historical Society [ Hudson’s History... a Bibliography Joan K. Davidson n search of the history of the City of Hudson one would be well-advised to begin with a visit to the excellent Hudson Area Library, at State and 4th, where a whole room is set aside for the purpose. Here to be discovered are books, pamphlets, reports, journals, newspapers, photographs, maps, and more, covering the history of New York State, and Columbia County and all its villages and towns, including Hudson. Subject matter stretches from 18th century death notices to the poems of Edna St.Vincent Millay, who lived in Austerlitz. Closely related to the story of Hudson is the grand literature of the Hudson River and its Valley, full of fascinating information about natural and cultural riches, politics and economics, and neighboring places — the Catskills, Adirondacks, Berkshires, Dutchess County — along with juicy biographies of noted folks from all walks of life, including the influential Livingston family. Most works are non-fiction, but novels dote the shelves too, quite a few for children. To all these sagas the library offers a guiding hand. The great granddaddy of Columbia County books, which includes a thorough section on Hudson, is the comprehensive work by Captain Franklin Ellis, I www.cchsny.org published in 1878, whose name, so selfeffacing was he, does not appear on the title page. The Ellis book’s dense, factfilled text is enlivened by delightful lithographs of 19th century worthies and their country seats.This essential volume has been reprinted in paperback by the estimable Purple Mountain Press.Also in print are the wonderful A Visible Heritage: Columbia County, New York, A History in Art and Architecture by Ruth Piwonka and Roderic H. Blackburn, 2000, for which we have Black Dome Press to thank, and Diamond Street: The Story of the Little Town With the Big Red Light District by Bruce Edward Hall (1994 Purple Mountain Press). Stay tuned. Several interesting new books are due to appear: The Wooden Churches of Columbia County, by Arthur Baker, [ed. note: This book has recently been published; please see review on page 23] and Hudson: What Happened to America. The story in text and pictures of the rise and fall of a small American Town, by Byrne Fone, and a major effort (ten years in preparation!) Looking for Work: The Industrial Archeology of Columbia County by Peter Stott. Among the many out-of-print works about Hudson, some may be of more general interest than others. Here’s a sampling: History of the City of Hudson, New York: With Biographical Sketches of Henry Hudson and Robert Fulton by Anna R. Bradbury, 1908, Most Likely to Succeed: Multiple Murder and the Elusive Search for Justice in an American Town by Alan Gelb, 1990, The Parsonage Between Two Manors: Annals of Clover-Reach Hudson, New York by Elizabeth Louisa Gephard, 1909, Hudson Revisited by Jean Brice McMullin, 1985, History of the Hudson: Embracing the Settlement of the City, City Government, Business Enterprises, Churches, Press, Schools, Libraries by Stephen B. Miller, 1862, The Hudsonian, Old Times and New: A Home Record of Historical Sketches Pertaining to the City of Hudson, and Its Immediate Vicinity by Robert M. Terry, 1895, Recollections of Hudson by Gorham Worth, 1847 First Reformed Protestant Church: Semi-centennial Celebration of the First Reformed Protestant Church by M. Parker Williams, Register and Gazette, 1856. New and recent books are available from the Columbia County Historical Society and general bookstores in the County. Out of print works might be found at, or possibly ordered from distinguished local purveyors of secondhand and rare books: Main Street Books in Germantown, The Book Barn in Craryville, and Frisch’s in Livingston. For their researches and title suggestions we are immensely grateful to Frank Rees, Librarian, Hudson Area Library; Tom Wermuth, Dean of Liberal Arts at Marist College and his students; and to Dr. Byrne Fone, Vice President of Historic Hudson. Hudson Area Library, 400 State Street — This historic building enjoyed many uses before becoming a library in 1957: 1818 to 1830 – Almshouse; 1830 to 1850 – Insane Asylum; 1851 to 1865 – Academy for Young Women; 1865 to 1881 – Private residence; 1881 to 1957. 28 ] Columbia County Histor y & Heritage Summer 2003 The Columbia County Courthouse By Emily Pulfer-Terino Ms Pulfer-Terino is a scholar from Sarah Lawrence College who is engaged in continuing research on the architecture of Hudson, NY. mong Hudson’s architectural treasures, the Columbia County Courthouse is one of the most significant and under-recognized. Beyond its beauty, the building is of great historical importance and must be recognized as such. It was designed in 1908 by the New York architects Whitney Warren and Charles Wetmore, who are acknowledged as highly influential in the development of America’s modern architectural sensibility and are most famous for the design of Manhattan’s Grand Central Terminal. Warren and Wetmore were early advocates of the City Beautiful movement, America’s first serious attempt at a new kind of urban planning that would create cohesive city environments with acute attention both to beauty of design and to efficient human activity. The existing Courthouse is the third on its site. After fire destroyed the previous two structures, Warren and Wetmore drafted plans with modern pragmatism.The current building is fireproof, made almost entirely of granite, sandstone and iron. Besides their attention to functionalism, Warren and Wetmore composed the building with close reference to surrounding structures. Rather than dominating the area, the Courthouse works in concert with the square and neighboring homes. At once imposing and austere, it employs classical composition, harmonious scale, and A with Washington Square, makes the south end of Fourth Street an elegant public space. The architects avoided the excesses common among commissions of such significance by limiting ornamentation and diminishing the apparent height of the building. The Courthouse’s main body is set on a raised basement. The ground floor acts as a plinth from which the building rises above the park in stately fashion. This tactic stresses the exterior’s horizontality, reducing the building’s verticality and perceived scale. That clever approach, also used in Grand Central Terminal, elevates the Courthouse as an urban monument while balancing its scale with the surroundings. Warren and Wetmore used classical design elements inventively and flexibly. The balustrade above the secondstory windows is set clearly in relation with the heights of neighboring houses. The dome, which marks the termination of Fourth Street, is shallow and set forward over the main courtroom. This reduction in the height of the dome prevents it from domi- The fourth Columbia County Courthouse (the second built on this site); it was destroyed by fire in 1907. The present Columbia County Courthouse, seen here in an early photo shortly after completion. 29 nating Courthouse Square while maintaining visibility and stressing the building’s civic importance. The Columbia County Courthouse deserves further recognition and study, particularly regarding its exact relationship with Grand Central Terminal, constructed soon after the completion of the Courthouse. Hudson is fortunate to have not one but two Warren and Wetmore buildings.The former Hudson City Savings Bank, now the Department of Motor Vehicles office on Warren Street, was also designed by the firm.The city is doubly fortunate for the opportunity to preserve the structures themselves as well as the harmony between these buildings and their urban environments. Editor’s Note: Interior renovations to this remarkable and distinguished Courthouse building are currently underway which include the installation of lower ceilings, the masking of fireplaces, and the covering of masterful and important architectural details. On the exterior white vinyl window inserts with flat panels above — some to accommodate air conditioners and some not — have been installed in various window spaces replacing the original wooden windows. The renovated interior spaces appear more modern and comfortable, but at what a tragic cost to the architectural integrity of one of Hudson’s most important landmarks. What further destruction in the name of modernization is planned for this building is unknown. In so many other cases approaches which are more sensitive to continuing historic values and the public appreciation of such have been extremely successful. Columbia County Historical Society Philp Orchards PICK-YOUR-OWN APPLES, PEARS AND PLUMS Bartlett, Beure Bosc, Seckel, Harrow Sweet Pears, Jonamac, McIntosh, Cortland, Empire, Macoun, Spartan, Idared, Greening, Red Delicious, Jonagold, Golden Delicious, Rome, Northern Spy, Mutsu, Stanley, Bluefre Plums Heritage Tomatoes • Fall Rasperries Appple Firewood SEPTEMBER THROUGH OCTOBER Route 9H, one mile north of Claverack, NY 518-851-6351 30 www.cchsny.org Columbia County Histor y & Heritage St.Winifred, continued from page 13 Columbia County Historical Society Calendar of Events Please note in your calendars the following events and dates. For additional information regarding these, please call the Society’s office at (518) 758-9265 or visit our website at www.cchsny.org. Aug 31st Concert and Picnic On Sept. 28th of that year the statue was dedicated with numerous public figures in attendance. Included was General DePeyster who spoke of his family’s history in the area and presented the saint “for the admiration not only of Hudsonians, but of the countless thousands who pass up and down the river.” Water to St. Winifred’s fountain was long ago turned off. In 1975 the sword was replaced, having been stolen several years before. As old photographs have shown, the sword was also missing in the 1930s.The sword was stolen again in 1994 and replaced in 1996. Aside from these indignities, the good saint continues her vigil over the city and the river. Nov 8th Jacobs Benefit Recital Nathan Wild House Dec 6th until December 14th Gallery of Wreaths and Holiday Craft Boutique at the Columbia County Museum Aug 16th & Aug 23rd Dec 12th Monthie Slide Program Hudson Opera House Greens Show and House Tour in Kinderhook Village on Candlelight Night. Summer 2003 C r a w f o rd & A s s o c i a t e s E n g i n e e r i n g , P. C . September Second Century Circle Dinner Dec 12th until December 14th October 18th Greens Show at the James A.Vanderpoel House. • Civil & Sanitary Engineering • Site Planning • Structural Analysis & Design • Mechanical Design • Environmental Consulting Annual Meeting at the Columbia County Museum 551 Warren Street, Hudson, NY 12534 (518) 828-2700 www.crawfordandassociates.com Pat & Larry Phone (518) 766-3008 Fax (518) 766-9818 4228 Route 203 Post Office Box 219 North Chatham, NY 12132 31 HISTORIC HUDSON by Byrne Fone and Carole Osterink istoric Hudson is a not-for-profit corporation founded in 1996 to promote the preservation of the unique architectural heritage of the City of Hudson, a remarkable collection of largely intact 18th-, 19th-, and early 20th-century buildings. By many Hudson is thought of as a veritable dictionary of American architectural style. The mission of Historic Hudson is to preserve that heritage, which it achieves through advocacy and public events and programs that disseminate information about the city’s history and foster appreciation for its historic architecture. Among its programs are the annual Preservation Awards, lectures and exhibits on various aspects of Hudson's architecture and history, creation of a guide and walking tour of the City of Hudson, which street by street describes Hudson's many historic buildings by date and style, and maintenance of the Historic Hudson/Rowles Studio Collection of photographs, numbering nearly 300 rare and unique images of the City of Hudson from the 19th and early 20th century. When the situation demands, Historic Hudson ensures the survival of buildings through acquisition, stabilization, and resale to new owners committed to restoration and preservation, a process which recently saved a historic 18th-century house at 126 Warren Street from demolition.The organization is the advocate for the preservation of the ca. 1812 Plumb- H Bronson House, on the grounds of the Hudson Correctional Facility.The house was built in the Federal style for its original owner, Samuel Plumb. In 1838, it was purchased by Dr. Oliver Bronson, who commissioned Alexander Jackson Davis to “refit” the house in the Picturesque style in 1839 and later to expand the house, adding the west facade with a decorative veranda and a three-story tower in the Italianate style. Historic Hudson is currently working with the Hudson Correctional Facility and the New York State Department of Corrections to acquire a long-term lease, which will make Historic Hudson legal steward of the Plumb-Bronson House. Once this goal is accomplished, and with a grant from the Regional and Community Historic Preservation Plan, matched by the generous donations of its members, Historic Hudson will begin its first major restoration project at the Plumb-Bronson House, repair and restoration of the windows. Historic Hudson’s Board of Directors includes Carole Osterink, President; Dr. Byrne Fone, Vice President; Jamison Teale, Secretary; John Ashbery, Lynn Davis, Richard Donovan, Timothy Dunleavy, David Kermani, Robert Mechling, David Petrovsky, Jeremiah Rusconi, Ann H. Scott, Dr. David Seamon, Dr. David Voorhees, Rudy Wurlitzer, and Reggie Young. Historic Hudson’s offices are located at 554 Warren Street in Hudson. For more information about membership in Historic Hudson, to contribute to any of its projects, including the Plumb-Bronson House, please call 518-828-1785. Non-Profit Org. U.S. Postage PAID Albany, NY Permit #370 5 Albany Ave., Kinderhook, NY 12106 For updated information about events and other activites of the Columbia County Historical Society, please visit our website at www.cchsny.org
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