Borneo – A Clouded Leopard
Quest!
28 April – 9 May 2015
Naturetrek Tour Report
Report compiled by Nick Acheson
Naturetrek
Mingledown Barn
Wolf's Lane
Chawton
Alton
Hampshire
T: +44 (0)1962 733051
F: +44 (0)1962 736426
E: [email protected]
W: www.naturetrek.co.uk
GU34 3HJ
UK
Borneo – A Clouded Leopard Quest!
Tour Participants:
Tour Report
Nick Acheson
Hazwan Suban
And eight clients
Naturetrek Tour Leader
Sepilok / Sukau leader
Introduction
Our second Borneo Clouded Leopard Quest was a remarkable experience. We didn’t see the Sunda Clouded
Leopard, so in this sense the tour might be judged a failure. However, to judge this spectacular tour a failure
would be to miss the point entirely. While we could not find a Sunda Clouded Leopard, in trying - extremely
hard - we had a rare, privileged, and intense view of the fabulous night wildlife of Borneo’s rainforest.
To reflect an unusual tour, I shall write an unusual report. It would be meaningless to write a day-by-day (or
rather night-by-night) account of our activities as on so many of our days in Sabah we ostensibly did the same
things. Rather, in addition to a full list of the species we saw, I shall talk, species by species, through some of the
highlights of our fantastic nocturnal exploration of the forests of Sukau and Tabin.
Day 1
Tuesday 28th April
In flight to Borneo
Wednesday 29th April – Friday 1st May
Day 2 - 4
The first leg of our tour we spent in Sepilok, near the town of Sandakan in eastern Sabah. Sepilok is celebrated
for its Orang-utan Rehabilitation Centre, which we visited on our first full day, seeing both wild wildlife in the
forest and Orang-utans in the process of being released into their natural environment. Next door we visited the
new Bornean Sun Bear Conservation Centre where more than thirty Sun Bears, rescued from illegal trade, are
housed in large forest enclosures and the first rehabilitated animals are soon to be released to the forest. Here we
were privileged to meet the centre’s founder and CEO, Wong Siew Te, and hear from him about the ecology of
wild Sun Bears (and Sunda Clouded Leopards) in Borneo.
On the afternoon of the 1st we went, via lunch in Sandakan, upriver on the Kinabatangan to our splendid lodge.
Our guide for both the Sepilok and Kinabatangan sections of the tour was the hugely knowledgeable Hazwan.
Friday 1st – Sunday 3rd May
Day 4 - 6
From our base at Sukau Rainforest Lodge we explored, by day and night, the banks and creeks of the
Kinabatangan River for two days by boat. Here, by day, we had superb encounters with Proboscis Monkeys,
Silvered Langurs, Long-tailed Macaques and hornbills, including Rhinoceros, Wrinkled and Bushy-crested.
By night we did the same, armed with lamps, and saw many charismatic animals including Saltwater Crocodile,
Reticulated Python, Flat-headed Cat and roosting Blue-eared Kingfishers.
© Naturetrek
July 15
1
Borneo – A Clouded Leopard Quest!
Day 6 - 12
Tour Report
Friday 1st – Saturday 9th May
Passing via Gomantong Caves (bat and swiftlet central!) on our way from the Kinabatangan, we spent the next
six days (more accurately, the next six nights) exploring the forests of Tabin Wildlife Reserve, from our base at
the Resort of the same name.
There were so many highlights here, and I shall touch on them in the species accounts, that it would be
impossible to do them justice. For six nights we went out three times a night: a dusk drive lasting around two
hours, a post-dinner drive of the same duration and a pre-and-post-dawn drive generally lasting three hours.
These drives, in the brilliant hands (and braking feet, lamping wrists, spotting eyes and explaining tongues) of
Mohammad and Jusrin, were a complete delight and were laden with great wildlife.
They were even laden with cats - Leopard Cats every night - but not with the cat we most dearly sought, the
Sunda Clouded Leopard. In addition to cats, we saw innumerable Bearded Pigs, Malay Civets, Buffy Fish-Owls
and Common Palm Civets and only slightly more numerable Small-toothed Palm Civets. Occasional highlights
included Colugo, Western Tarsier, Bornean Slow Loris, Sunda Frogmouth, Banded Palm Civet and Yellow
Muntjac. All in all, a splendid romp through the night forests of Borneo.
Thanks
Tremendous thanks are due to everyone who helped us along the way and tolerated our weird obsession with
night wildlife. The staff of Sepilok Jungle Resort were almost embarrassingly welcoming and helpful as were the
good people of Sukau Rainforest Lodge. In both, Hazwan was a quietly efficient and extremely knowledgeable
host.
Likewise, the people of Tabin Wildlife Resort could not have been more helpful or accommodating. First among
them, of course, were Mohammad and Jusrin, the stars of the show, without whom our night safaris would have
been impossible. With them they were quite delightful.
Receive our e-newsletter
Join the Naturetrek e-mailing list and be the first to hear about new tours, additional departures and new dates,
tour reports and special offers. Visit www.naturetrek.co.uk to sign up.
Naturetrek Facebook
We are delighted to launch the Naturetrek Facebook page so that participants of Naturetrek tours can remain in
touch after the holiday and share photos, comments and future travel plans.
Setting up a personal profile at www.facebook.com is quick, free and easy. The Naturetrek Facebook page is
now live; do please pay us a visit!
2
© Naturetrek
Borneo – A Clouded Leopard Quest!
Tour Report
Selected species highlights (for the full list see the table below)
Mammals
Malaysian Colugo Cynocephalus variegatus: We saw this bizarre, fascinating creature three times: a roosting
animal on two consecutive days in forest behind Sukau Rainforest Lodge and one by night at the turn-around
point on the core road in Tabin.
Bornean Slow Loris Nycticebus menagensis: We had two great encounters with this lovely animal. On the
second, Jusrin made great efforts to get us into the forest to see it closer but by the time we reached the spot it
had scarpered.
Western Tarsier Cephalopachus bancanus: We were lucky to see two tarsiers. The first was a struggle, high in
dense vegetation above us, but the second gave us an excellent opportunity to admire this tiny primate.
Silvered Langur Trachypithecus cristatus: This is the common langur along the Kinabatangan and we saw
several families well. One family included a female of the rarer apricot form.
Proboscis Monkey Nasalis larvatus: Likewise we saw many families of these superb endemic primates along
the Kinabatangan.
Long-tailed Macaque Macaca fascicularis: We saw Long-tailed Macaques on six days: most numerously
along the Kinabatangan, by day and roosting at night, but also at Tabin.
Sunda Pig-tailed Macaque Macaca nemestrina: We first saw Pig-tails at the Orang-utan feeding station at
Sepilok but they were also regulars at Tabin.
East Bornean Grey Gibbon Hylobates funereus: We heard these gorgeous primates at Sepilok and saw them
every day in Tabin, including a family which was almost always right around the lodge.
Bornean Orang-utan Pongo pygmaeus: Despite close encounters with rehabilitated animals around Sepilok
the only wholly wild individuals we saw were at Gomantong.
Cream-coloured Giant Squirrel Ratufa affinis: All of our sightings of this splendid squirrel were in Tabin
where one occasionally came to feed from a tree right by the main buildings.
Prevost’s Squirrel Callosciurus prevostii pluto: This lustrous animal was the default squirrel everywhere we
went in East Sabah.
Plantain Squirrel Callosciurus notatus: This species was very common around Sepilok and less so in Tabin.
Ear-spot Squirrel Callosciurus adamsi: Very similar to the last species, and requiring a good view to clinch
identification, this squirrel was common along the entrance road to Sepilok.
© Naturetrek
July 15
3
Borneo – A Clouded Leopard Quest!
Tour Report
Plain Pygmy Squirrel Exilisciurus exilis: Let’s all pause for a moment to say ‘ooooh’ over the ridiculous
cuteness and diminutiveness of this tiny squirrel. Now that’s over I can report that we saw one in the forest on
our full day in Sepilok and several around the Resort in Tabin.
Red Giant Flying-Squirrel Petaurista petaurista: The commonest of the flying-squirrels, we saw this splendid
animal first on our night walk in Sepilok and repeatedly on drives in Tabin.
Black Flying-Squirrel Aeromys tephromelas: This gorgeous animal was seen fairly often on night drives in
Tabin, both in the forest and along the entrance road.
Thomas’ Flying-Squirrel Aeromys thomasi: This was the scarcest flying-squirrel, seen only on two dates in
Tabin and only in secondary forest.
Yellow-throated Marten Martes flavigula: Seen by some of you near the lodge, the whole group saw a family
of these lithe mustelids descending from a tree on our first night drive in Tabin.
Smooth-coated Otter Lutra sumatrana: Despite the inaccuracies of the published literature and the received
wisdom of locals, the large otters at Tabin are Smooth-coated. We saw them here on three days.
Small-clawed Otter Aonyx cinereus: These lovely animals were seen on one day at Tabin.
Malay Civet Viverra tangalunga: This very beautiful animal was seen commonly at Tabin, especially on the
entrance road. The second commonest Viverrid after Common Palm Civet.
Small-toothed Palm Civet Arctogalidia trivirgata: We saw groups in fruiting trees at Tabin.
Common Palm Civet Paradoxurus hermaphroditus: By far the commonest civet we saw, found on every
drive along the entrance road at Tabin, often in numbers. Beautiful.
Leopard Cat Prionailurus bengalensis: This startlingly beautiful small cat was amazingly common and easy to
see in Tabin, especially along the entrance road. We had previously seen one individual briefly in elephant grass
along the Kinabatangan.
Flat-headed Cat Prionailurus planiceps: We were delighted to see an individual of this rare species on the
muddy edge of the Kinabatangan.
Bearded Pig Sus barbatus: This was a common animal on our night drives in Tabin and was also occasionally
seen in daylight.
Yellow Muntjac Muntiacus atherodes: We had two sightings of this Bornean endemic in Tabin, the first of
one and the second, on our last drive, of two together.
4
© Naturetrek
Borneo – A Clouded Leopard Quest!
Tour Report
Reptiles
Saltwater Crocodile Crocodylus porosus: These magnificent animals were seen several times along the
Kinabatangan and in its creeks and oxbows.
Water Monitor Varanus salvator: This was the commonest large reptile on our tour, seen under the jetty in
Sandakan, along the Kinabatangan and sleeping lengthways along branches in Tabin.
Reticulated Python Broghammerus reticulatus: We saw a Reticulated Python in a tree on an evening cruise
from Sukau.
Wagler’s Pit Viper Tropidolaemus wagleri: We saw this brilliant green snake on night walks in Sepilok and
Tabin.
Birds
Storm’s Stork Ciconia stormi: This much-sought bird was seen at Gomantong, along the Kinabatangan and in
Tabin.
Bornean Falconet Microhierax latifrons: What a superb little bird! We saw it just once in Tabin.
Bat Hawk Macheiramphus alcinus: We met a nest-building pair in an emergent tree on the bank of the
Kinabatangan and saw a similar pair in Tabin.
White-bellied Sea-Eagle Haliaeetus leucogaster: In the lower stretches of the Kinabatangan we saw this
magnificent bird.
Lesser Fish Eagle Haliaeetus humilis: Likewise we saw this handsome species as we entered the
Kinabatangan from Sandakan.
Wallace’s Hawk-Eagle Nisaetus nanus: Our first encounter with this neat bird was at the Sukau Rainforest
Lodge where we found a pair with its nest. Subsequently we saw several around Tabin.
Blue-crowned Hanging-Parrot Loriculus galgulus: What’s not to love about Blue-crowned HangingParrots? Well, you could start with their infuriating habit of pinging past at high speed in the clouds, only
betraying their presence with their whistling calls. We saw this little bird several times around Sepilok and Tabin.
Long-tailed Parakeet Psittacula longicauda: We saw fly-bys several time around Sepilok and Tabin, with just
a few views of perched birds. Lovely all the same.
Oriental Bay Owl Phodilus badius: Fantastic! We saw two of these wonderful little owls on a night drive
along the entrance road at Tabin.
Buffy Fish Owl Ketupa ketupu: Our constant companion by night along the Kinabatangan and on the
entrance road at Tabin. Amazingly common and obliging.
© Naturetrek
July 15
5
Borneo – A Clouded Leopard Quest!
Tour Report
Sunda Frogmouth Batrachostomus cornutus: After some research and consultation with expert locals our
frogmouth at Tabin was identified as this species.
Edible-nest Swift Aerodramus fuciphagus: Of the many swiftlets we saw, the only identifiable individuals
(with the exception of Glossy Swiftlets) were this species and Black-nest at their nests at Gomantong.
Silver-rumped Needletail Rhapidura leucopygialis: Common, especially over the lake at Sepilok.
Grey-rumped Treeswift Hemiprocne longipennis: Commonly seen over the lake at Sepilok.
Red-naped Trogon Harpactes kasumba: This striking bird was seen once at Tabin.
Cinnamon-rumped Trogon Harpactes orrhophaeus: Likewise, this lovely bird was seen once at Tabin.
Blue-banded Kingfisher Alcedo euryzona: A pair of these subtly handsome birds was usually present along
the river at Tabin. Often seen while looking for otters.
Blue-eared Kingfisher Alcedo meninting: By far the commonest kingfisher we saw near water.
Blue-throated Bee-eater Merops viridis: Just wow! Seen on two days around Sepilok.
Bushy-crested Hornbill Anorrhinus galeritus: We saw this subtly handsome, social hornbill on numerous
days along the Kinabatangan and in Tabin.
Black Hornbill Anthracoceros malayanus: Along with its congener the Oriental Pied Hornbill, this was the
commonest hornbill on the tour.
Rhinoceros Hornbill Buceros rhinoceros: This stupendous beast was frequently seen on the Kinabatangan
and at Tabin. Fantastic!
White-crowned Hornbill Berenicornis comatus: Also a complete wow bird. We saw them at the lodge in
Tabin on several occasions.
Wrinkled Hornbill Aceros corrugatus: This multicoloured hornbill was seen well beside the Kinabatangan.
Black-and-Red Broadbill Cymbirhynchus macrorhynchos: Happily this dramatically beautiful bird is
common and we saw it well along the Kinabatangan.
Black-and-Yellow Broadbill Eurylaimus ochromalus: Equally lovely, we saw this bird both on the
Kinabatangan and at Tabin.
Malaysian Pied Fantail Rhipidura javanica: One of the commonest forest birds of the tour. No less lovely
for it.
6
© Naturetrek
Borneo – A Clouded Leopard Quest!
Tour Report
Brown-throated Sunbird Anthreptes simplex: This was the commonest sunbird around Sepilok, though here
we also saw several Crimson.
Orange-bellied Flowerpecker Dicaeum trigonostigma: The commonest flowerpecker on our tour, though
Scarlet-backed was also common around Sepilok.
Dusky Munia Lonchura fusca: Of two species of munia seen on the tour, this endemic was seen relatively less
than the beautiful Chestnut.
Malaysian Blue Flycatcher Cynornis turcosus: This beautiful little bird was the only blue flycatcher we saw,
but we met it both in Sukau and in Tabin.
Yellow-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus goiavier: By far the commonest bulbul in gardens and disturbed forest
around Sepilok.
Red-eyed Bulbul Pycnonotus brunneus: The default bulbul in forest, in feeding flocks which commonly also
contained Spectacled and Buff-vented.
Pacific Swallow Hirundo tahitica: Sky plankton everywhere.
© Naturetrek
July 15
7
Borneo – A Clouded Leopard Quest!
Tour Report
Species Lists
Mammals (= recorded but not counted; h = heard only; E = Endemic; I = Introduced)
Common name
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
Moonrat
Small Short-nosed Fruit Bat
Malaysian Colugo
Bornean Slow Loris
Western Tarsier
Hose’s (Sabah Grizzled) Langur E
Silvered Langur
Proboscis Monkey E
Long-tailed Macaque
Sunda Pig-tailed Macaque
East Bornean Grey Gibbon E
Bornean Orangutan E
Giant Squirrel
Prevost's Squirrel
Plantain Squirrel
Ear-spot Squirrel E
Plain Pygmy Squirrel E
Red Giant Flying Squirrel
Thomas's Flying Squirrel E
Yellow-throated Marten
Smooth (Smooth-coated) Otter
Oriental Small-clawed Otter
Malay Civet
Small-toothed Palm Civet
Common Palm Civet
Banded Palm Civet
Flat-headed Cat
Leopard Cat
Bearded Pig
© Naturetrek
July 15
Scientific name
Echinosorex gymnurus
Cyanopterus minutus
Cyanocephalus variegatus
Nycticebus menagensis (coucang)
Cephalopachus bancanus
Presbytis rubicunda
Trachypithecus cristatus
Nasalis larvatus
Macaca fascicularis
Macaca nemestrina
Hylobates funereus
Pongo pygmaeus
Ratufa affinis
Callosciurus prevostii pluto
Callosciurus notatus
Callosciurus adamsi
Exilisciurus exilis
Petaurista petaurista
Aeromys thomasi
Martes flavigula
Lutrogale perspicillata
Aonyx cinereus
Viverra tangalunga
Arctogalidia trivirgata
Paradoxurus hermaphroditus
Hemigalus derbyanus
Prionailurus planiceps
Prionailurus bengalensis
Sus barbatus
29
30
1
2
3
April/May
4
5
6
7
8
9
















h












h












h
























































1
Borneo – A Clouded Leopard Quest!
30
31
Common name
Lesser Mouse-Deer
Bornean Yellow Muntjac
Tour Report
Scientific name
Tragulus kanchil
Muntiacus atherodes
29
30
1
2

3
April/May
4
5
6
7
8


9

Reptiles
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
Saltwater Crocodile
Crested Green Lizard
Flying Lizard
Asian House Gecko
Red-throated Skink
Water Monitor
Reticulated Python
Wagler’s Pit Viper
Red-sided Keelback
Twin-barred Tree Snake
Mangrove Snake
Crocodylus porosus
Bronchocela cristatella
Draco sp.
Hemidactylus frenatus
Mabuya rugifera
Varanus salvator
Broghammerus reticulatus
Tropidolaemus wagleri
Xenochropis trianguligerus
Chrysopelea pelia
Boiga dendrophila





























Birds
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
2
Great Argus
Red Junglefowl I
Storm's Stork
Lesser Adjutant
Little (Striated) Heron
Black-crowned Night Heron
Eastern Cattle Egret
Great-billed Heron
Purple Heron
Great Egret
Intermediate Egret
Little Egret
Oriental Darter
White-fronted (Bornean) Falconet E
Western Osprey
Argusianus argus
Gallus gallus
Ciconia stormi
Leptoptilos javanicus
Butorides striata
Nycticorax nycticorax
Bubulcus coromandus
Ardea sumatrana
Ardea purpurea
Ardea alba
Egretta intermedia
Egretta garzetta
Anhinga melanogaster
Microhierax latifrons
Pandion haliaetus


h
























© Naturetrek
Borneo – A Clouded Leopard Quest!
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
40
41
42
43
44
45
46
47
Common name
Bat Hawk
Brahminy Kite
White-bellied Sea Eagle
Lesser Fish Eagle
Crested Serpent Eagle
Crested Goshawk
Black Eagle
Changeable Hawk-Eagle
Wallace's Hawk-Eagle
Rufous-bellied Eagle
White-breasted Waterhen
Common Sandpiper
Whiskered Tern
Spotted Dove
Zebra Dove I
Pink-necked Green Pigeon
Green Imperial Pigeon
Blue-crowned Hanging Parrot
Long-tailed Parakeet
Indian Cuckoo
Plaintive Cuckoo
Chestnut-breasted Malkoha
Greater Coucal
Oriental Bay Owl
Barred Eagle-Owl
Buffy Fish Owl
Sunda Frogmouth
Large-tailed Nightjar
Glossy Swiftlet
Black-nest Swiftlet
Edible-nest Swiftlet
Silver-rumped Spinetail
© Naturetrek
July 15
Tour Report
Scientific name
Macheiramphus alcinus
Haliastur indus
Haliaeetus leucogaster
Haliaeetus humilis
Spilornis cheela
Accipiter trivirgatus
Ictinaetus malayensis
Nisaetus cirrhatus
Nisaetus nanus
Lophotriorchis kienerii
Amaurornis phoenicurus
Actitis hypoleucos
Chlidonias hybrida
Spilopelia chinensis
Geopelia striata
Treron vernans
Ducula aenea
Loriculus galgulus
Psittacula longicauda
Cuculus micropterus
Cacomantis merulinus
Phaenicophaeus curvirostris
Centropus sinensis
Phodilus badius
Bubo sumatranus
Ketupa ketupu
Batrachostomus cornutus
Caprimulgus macrurus
Collocalia esculenta
Aerodramus maximus
Aerodramus fuciphagus
Rhaphidura leucopygialis
29
30

1





2


3
April/May
4
5

6
7
8
9































h

h



h

























3
Borneo – A Clouded Leopard Quest!
48
49
50
51
52
53
54
55
56
57
58
59
60
61
62
63
64
65
66
67
68
69
70
71
72
73
74
75
76
77
78
79
4
Common name
Grey-rumped Treeswift
Red-naped Trogon
Oriental Dollarbird
Stork-billed Kingfisher
Collared Kingfisher
Rufous-backed (Oriental Dwarf) Kingfisher
Blue-banded Kingfisher
Blue-eared Kingfisher
Blue-throated Bee-eater
Bushy-crested Hornbill
Oriental Pied Hornbill
Black Hornbill
Rhinoceros Hornbill
Helmeted Hornbill
White-crowned Hornbill
Wrinkled Hornbill
Blue-eared Barbet
White-bellied Woodpecker
Olive-backed Woodpecker
Orange-backed Woodpecker
Buff-necked Woodpecker
Black-and-red Broadbill
Black-and-yellow Broadbill
White-breasted Woodswallow
Malaysian Pied Fantail
Asian Paradise Flycatcher
Greater Racket-tailed Drongo
Slender-billed Crow
Brown-throated Sunbird
Crimson Sunbird
Temminck's Sunbird
Little Spiderhunter
Tour Report
Scientific name
Hemiprocne longipennis
Harpactes kasumba
Eurystomus orientalis
Pelargopsis capensis
Todiramphus chloris
Ceyx erithaca
Alcedo euryzona
Alcedo meninting
Merops viridis
Anorrhinus galeritus
Anthracoceros albirostris
Anthracoceros malayanus
Buceros rhinoceros
Rhinoplax vigil
Berenicornis comatus
Aceros corrugatus
Megalaima australis
Dryocopus javensis
Dinopium rafflesii
Reinwardtipicus validus
Meiglyptes tukki
Cymbirhynchus macrorhynchos
Eurylaimus ochromalus
Artamus leucorynchus
Rhipidura javanica
Terpsiphone paradisi
Dicrurus paradiseus
Corvus enca
Anthreptes malacensis
Aethopyga siparaja
Aethopyga temminckii
Arachnothera longirostra
29
30
1
2
3

April/May
4
5
6
7
8
9









h



























h




h


h






h


































© Naturetrek
Borneo – A Clouded Leopard Quest!
80
81
82
83
84
85
86
87
88
89
90
91
92
93
94
95
96
97
98
99
100
101
Common name
Orange-bellied Flowerpecker
Scarlet-backed Flowerpecker
Lesser Green Leafbird
Dusky Munia E
Chestnut Munia
Eurasian Tree Sparrow
Javan Myna I
Common Hill Myna
Asian Glossy Starling
Oriental Magpie-Robin
White-crowned Shama E
White-crowned Forktail
Malaysian Blue Flycatcher
Yellow-vented Bulbul
Asian Red-eyed Bulbul
Spectacled Bulbul
Yellow-bellied Bulbul
House (Pacific) Swallow
Bold-striped Tit-Babbler
White-chested Babbler
Ashy (Red-headed) Tailorbird
Yellow-bellied Prinia
© Naturetrek
July 15
Tour Report
Scientific name
Dicaeum trigonostigma
Dicaeum cruentatum
Chloropsis cyanopogon
Lonchura fuscans
Lonchura atricapilla
Passer montanus
Acridotheres javanicus
Gracula religiosa
Aplonis panayensis
Copsychus saularis
Copsychus stricklandii
Enicurus leschebnaulti
Cyornis turcosus
Pycnonotus goiavier
Pycnonotus brunneus
Pycnonotus erythropthalmos
Alophoixus phaeocephalus
Hirundo tahitica
Macronus bornensis
Trichastoma rostratum
Orthotomus ruficeps
Prinia flaviventris
29
30
1
2
3






h


April/May
4
5






h



h






6
9



















8



7






h


h






5