Italian case study on Geographical Indications for
Russian cheese producers
Sharing Italy’s experience with Russian cheese producers
A group of representatives from the Russian dairy industry visited Italy to see how geographical indications
(GIs) are used by Italian dairy producers to boost sales of traditional products. Italy is the European country
with the largest number of GIs, which can be an interesting alternative to private branding. The study tour,
organized by the Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO) and the European Bank for Reconstruction and
Development (EBRD), took place on 23–27 May 2010. The case study of Parmigiano Reggiano cheese
production and marketing was selected to illustrate how geographical indications are used in Italy.
Parmigiano Reggiano cheese has protected designation of origin (PDO) status. It is one of Italy’s most famous
cheeses and one of the cheeses that has the greatest economic importance.
Italian producers of Parmigiano Reggiano join forces
EU legislation requires that the producers of products with PDO status be organized as special-purpose
associations. In Italy, these associations are called “consorzi”. The Parmigiano Reggiano Consortium, which
joins all producers of Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, was created in 1934. Its main purpose is to ensure that
producers follow the specific rules of production agreed among themselves but also to promote the
Parmigiano Reggiano protected designation of origin (PDO) and defend Parmigiano Reggiano cheese against
counterfeit parmesian cheeses. The Russian delegation learned about the EU concepts of PDO and protected
geographical indication (PGI) and could appreciate how critical producers’ associations are for the promotion
and control of products with PDO status as shown in the case of Parmigiano Reggiano cheese.
Products with PDO status and their territory of production
It is an essential condition that Parmigiano Reggiano cheese be produced in designated regions. For products with PDO
status, all raw materials must come from the region of origin, while for IP this is not necessary. For Parmigiano Reggiano
cheese production, most milk is from the designated regions and cattle are fed with feed from the regions. In the
designated region of Reggio Emilia, about 405 cheese factories produce only Parmigiano Reggiano cheese and 97% of the
milk produced in the region is used solely for the production of this cheese. On the dairy farms, the cattle are fed on locally
grown forage. Their feeding complies with the norms of a strict specification that ban the use of silage and fermented feeds.
Seventy-five percent of the grass and hay fed cattle must come from the designated production regions; Parmigiano
Reggiano cheese is produced exclusively in the regions of Parma, Reggio Emilia, Modena and parts of Mantua and Bologna,
on the plains, hills and mountains. The Russian Federation also has traditional cheeses that have the unique features of
certain regions (i.e. the Altay region). In these regions the PDO approach could be a way to add value to the local cheeses.
The Parmigiano - Reggiano cheese production cycle
A cheese factory produces approximately 18–20 forms of Parmegiano Reggiano cheese daily. Every evening,
fresh milk is placed in large vats at a controlled temperature of 20° C. In the morning, the fatty part of the
milk spontaneously rises to the surface and is skimmed off the top of the liquid milk. The cream is utilized for
products such as ricotta cheese and butter. The skimmed milk is transferred to bell-shaped copper cauldrons
and mixed in equal portion with milk from the morning milking. Natural lactic ferments obtained from the
processing of the day before are also added. Sixteen liters of milk, produced in the region, are needed for 1
kg of Parmigiano Reggiano cheese; 1,100 liters of milk and 25 liters of whey are needed to produce two
The value of personal experience
The heating of the milk is important as it dehydrates the cheese and influences the bacteria present in the
cheese. The temperature is gradually increased to a maximum of 55° C. The breaking of the cheese lasts for
approximately 20 minutes and the humidity of the cheese is controlled by the cheese maker. The study tour
delegates noted the close link between technology, tradition and experience; it was clear in the case of
Parmigiano Reggiano cheese production that the cheese makers play an essential role in the entire process
as the final result is closely dependent upon their personal experience and sensitivity, which lend to an
appreciable diversity of taste and aromas.
Utilization of cheese production by-products and linkages among PDOs
The whey, which is 100% natural, influences the final product in terms of unique flavour, aroma and texture.
The whey remaining after cheese production is transferred by tubes to separate tanks; a portion of it is
utilized the following day for cheese production and a portion is used for various products. The Russian
delegation could see the importance attached to the utilization of by-products such as whey to improve the
economics of production. In the Parmigiano Reggiano cheese production process, value is added to all byproducts: the cream from the evening milk is turned into butter, while most of the whey is sold to the local
pig-raising industry that thrives in the regions thanks to another famous product with PDO status, Parma
ham. Whey is rich in protein and is a perfect feed for pigs.
Parmigiano Reggiano brand to mark the cheese
‘Marchiatura’ (marking) is done overnight and is necessary in order to distinguish the product and the producer and to indicate the month and year of production
The marking band and identity card
The study tour participants were introduced to the procedure using the special marking band to engrave the
production date (month and year) on the each cheese head, as well as a registration number and the dotted
inscriptions around the complete circumference of each head of cheese. Cheese produced according to the
rules contained in the Production Regulation is the only cheese entitled to bear the Parmigiano Reggiano
mark and, therefore, each cheese head must display all the marks required for identifying and distinguishing
it. These marks are subdivided into marks of origin and grade selection marks. A stamp is then added within
the first two hours of production and is the identity card of the Parmigiano Reggiano cheese which indicates
the history of production.
The maturation cycle and storage systems
The cheese is allowed to rest and mature on wooden shelves where the outside of the cheese dries forming a natural crust
without treatment. The minimum maturation time is 12 months. Three million forms of Parmigiano Reggiano cheese are
produced annually by the Parmigiano Reggiano Consortium. Generally, 300,000 forms can be stored in a warehouse.
Maturation takes up to 23 months, and this implies that producers need large amounts of working capital. Delegates
learned from the study tour that a unique storage system exists for producers of Parmigiano Reggiano cheese: banks have
storage facilities where producers can “mature” their cheese. If they need financing, producers can borrow money from
banks using the cheese as collateral.
Production controls and tests
Regular tests by third parties are carried out on the milk used in the cheese-making process to ensure that it is in
conformity with the production standards of high quality and presents special characteristics. Chemical tests and tests for
sound, taste, smell, colour and shape of the forms are carried out on a regular basis.
Delegates noted the great importance that controls play in maintaining the quality standards of products with a PDO and in
guaranteeing authenticity to the consumers. Several controls are carried out by the consortium itself (auto control) but an
accredited third party also intervenes as required by EU legislation.
Heat branding and PDO requirements
Delegates noted that to meet the PDO requirements certain specific steps need to be taken and requirements met. After
inspection by the Control Group, a mark is fire-branded onto the individual forms of cheese and indicates that the
requirements for the protected designation of origin have been meet. All identifying marks and the dotted inscriptions are
removed from cheeses that do not meet the PDO requirements. A third party checks to ensure that the producers have
followed all the rules of production (disciplinary) agreed upon, and after a minimum of 12 months of maturation, the forms
of cheese officially become Parmigiano Reggiano cheese and the name Parmigiano Reggiano is branded on them with fire.
Production and sales figures
The economic importance of Parmigiano Reggiano: 3,000,000 forms of cheese are produced each year,
which shows that a collective brand benefitting not one large producer but many medium-sized producers
can have strong economic importance. The Russian delegates clearly came to understand during the
Parmigiano Reggiano study tour the importance the PDO could have for the development of products in
their regions.