Table of Contents Alligator Skin Guide..................................................................................................................3 The History of Alligator Skin Tanning...............................................................................4 How We Tan Alligator Skins..................................................................................................6 How To Size And Buy Alligator Skins................................................................................8 Where To Buy Alligator Skin.............................................................................................. 10 What Affects Alligator Skin Price..................................................................................... 12 Alligator Skin Guide Thanks for downloading our alligator skin guide! We’ve compiled the most useful information on alligator skin for your education. Read through the guide to find out more about: The history of alligator skin tanning; What products alligator skin is generally used for; The tanning process and just how much work goes into each individual alligator skin; How to buy the appropriate amount of alligator skin for your project; Where you can buy the skins and why we do better by you; and The various factors affecting the price of alligator skin. We hope you find it helpful! g+ www.panamleathers.com 3 The History of Alligator Skin Tanning Alligators have been harvested for some two hundred years. They were first harvested in Louisiana in great numbers in the early 1800’s. These alligators were harvested for their skins which were used to make boots, shoes and saddles, and for their oil used to grease steam engines and cotton mills. The demand decreased when the leather made from the skins was thought not to be durable. In the mid 1800’s the demand for alligator skins increased again. The Rise Of Commercial Alligator Skin Tanning In the late 1800’s and early 1900’s, commercial tanning processes began in New York, New Jersey and Europe. Because this process made the alligator skin soft, durable and more pliable, the demand for alligator leather increased dramatically. By the mid 1900’s Louisiana’s alligator population had been significantly reduced. In 1962, the alligator hunting season was closed statewide due to low numbers. The reduction in numbers was a result of nonregulated harvests. Detrimental harvest practices included overharvesting (today harvest quotas are set annually for each property currently hunted), non-selection of sexes which often resulted in overharvesting females (males currently comprise approximately 70% of adult alligators harvested) and no closed season, allowing hunting to coincide with nesting, which resulted in the harvest of future populations by harvesting females before they could release hatchlings from the nest or even begin nesting (current seasons are conducted in September after nesting). In 1967, the alligator was put on the endangered species list. By 1971, when the Crocodile Specialist Group began, all 23 species of crocodilian were endangered or threatened. Alligator Farming Efforts Increase Alligator Population In an effort to restore the animal and the industry, researchers at Rockefeller Refuge in Louisiana developed a revolutionary program of alligator farming/ranching that removes eggs from the wild, incubates and hatches them, and then, two years later, returns between 14% and 17% of those hatchlings to the wild. Upon return, they are between three and six feet in length, healthy, and capable of defending themselves in the marsh. As a result, the percentage of returns (i.e. 14%) is greater than the survival rate for eggs left in the marsh. In 1972 the alligator season was opened only in Cameron Parish and lasted 13 days. Other parishes were gradually added until the season became statewide in 1981. Louisiana’s wild g+ www.panamleathers.com 4 and farm alligator harvests currently exceed 300,000 animals annually, while the population level (based on aerial nest surveys) remains stable. Due to the success of this sustainable use program, the alligator was removed from the endangered species list in 1987. This program also set an example that inspired similar sweeping changes in the crocodile locales across the globe. So much so that by 1996, one-third of all crocodile species were sufficiently abundant to support well-regulated annual harvests and one-third of the species were no longer in danger of extinction but are not harvested. No other group of vertebrate animals has undergone such a dramatic improvement in its conservation status. g+ www.panamleathers.com 5 How We Tan Alligator Skins Some of you might be interested in learning a bit about the tanning process for our alligator skin. Tanning is essentially the transition of a raw skin into a leather, without which the skin would be susceptible to decomposition and bacteria. The process involves these steps: Dry salting as a preservative measure Beamhouse operations: Soaking to clean the skins Liming to descale them Deliming to raise the acidity Pickling to remove bone matter Chrome tanning to convert the material into inorganic material Shaving to degrease and thin out the leather Re-tanning to re-soften the leather for working Drying (either by hang-drying or by toggling) Dry cleaning Coloring Shaving to prepare the leather for the product Applying the finishing touches The Beginning Steps When we receive the alligator skin from the suppliers, they’re boardy and extremely susceptible to the elements. They arrive salted which removes the water from the skins and preserves them until we can work them. The first stage of the process is the beaming. First, we soak the skins in water to clean them, remove the salt, and rehydrate the skin so that we can begin working g+ www.panamleathers.com BEGIN 6 them. The Tanning Process After that, we move onto liming which removes scales, nails, mucins, and natural greases and fats. It also splits the fibers and makes the collagen in the skin workable. Next, we delime the skin to raise the acidity after the liming lowers it. The next phase is the pickling which is an acid bath that helps break down the bones and calcium in the alligator skin so that it is more pliable. After the pickling process comes the chrome bath which makes the alligator skin durable and no longer susceptible to the elements. Once this is done, it is no longer an organic skin; it has become inorganic leather. Tan Finishing Touches After this, we re-tan the alligator skin, this time using vegetable-based products. This is done so that the tougher skin that results from the initial tanning process is made supple again. We then either hang-dry or “toggle” (which uses a special type of oven to evaporate the water) to remove the water and humidity. Then we dye the leather, shave it down to the required thickness and weight for the application, and finish it with seasons and protective coats so that it feels good, looks good, and is protected from the elements. From there, it goes onto the manufacturer where they turn it into the garments, footwear, furniture, handbags, etc. that you’re familiar with. g+ www.panamleathers.com Finish 7 How To Size And Buy Alligator Skins If you’re here on this site, something about alligator skin appeals to you, whether you’re an aficionado of alligator skin or a designer or manufacturer looking for a supply. However, you might not be a veteran alligator skin buyer just yet. Perhaps you’re just starting or you’re looking for more information regarding how you might go about purchasing alligator skin. We’re here to help. What Are The Grading Standards? The most important factors to consider in buying alligator skin are grade and size. Let’s start with grading. Below are common grading standards: Divide the belly of the alligator skin into four imaginary quadrants: GRADE 1 GRADE 2 GRADE 3 GRADE 4 No defects on any quadrant Defects on one quadrant Defects on two quadrants Defects on three quadrants Defects are commonly holes, scars and scratches. A common misconception is that if you buy a grade III or IV skin, your finished products will have defects on the skin. This is not the case. A manufacturer experienced in working with alligator skin will cut around the defects so that your finished product will only include defect-free panels. Grade I/II alligator skin usually makes garments, watchstraps, handbags, upholstery and luggage. Grade II/III alligator skin is usually used in shoes, wallets and boots. Grade III/IV alligator skin tends to be used for belts, and small accessories where manufacturers can cut small panels around the defects. g+ www.panamleathers.com 8 What About Size? Sizing is also important to the buying process. Alligator skin is measured in centimeter width at the widest point of the belly. Depending on width of the skin, you’ll be able to make different goods using the various grades of the alligator skin. In the 20-29 cm range, you can make watchstraps, shoes, and smaller goods. From 30-34 cm, you can make small handbags, boots, and larger wallets. From 35-39cm, you can make garments, medium-sized handbags, and other medium-size accessories like tablet cases. From 40-59cm, you move into garments, larger handbags and belts. Alligator skin larger than 60 cm is most commonly used for luggage and larger upholstery. ? Now, you might be curious to know what the price of these skins is going to be. Well, it is fairly logical: the most expensive alligator skin is the large grade I skins. The least expensive are the smallest, lowest grade. Another small price consideration is what color and finish you’ll be applying to the alligator skin. Will you need a specialty finish like a metallic, pearl or iridescent? Do you want a light color like yellow, pink or white? These types of products typically have small surcharges attached to them, as it is more work. g+ www.panamleathers.com 9 Where To Buy Alligator Skin If you’ve been reading our blog, the information is fresh in your mind on how we tan the alligator skin you use in your products as well as how to select a skin for your needs. However, you might be wondering where you go about buying alligator skins. We sell them, certainly; but you might be wondering about other options and what they offer you. We’re not the only suppliers of alligator skin. So below, we lay out the alligator skin supply landscape for you. Distributors Distributors are exactly what it sounds like: they buy skins from tanneries, warehouse them and distribute them to buyers. They keep a large stock on hand which is convenient for a buyer in a time crunch. However, for them to make money, they have to mark it up and charge you higher prices. Also, their selection is limited. If you’re looking for a specific alligator skin that they don’t have, you’re out of luck—or you’ll need to go with an alligator skin you didn’t really want. Even if the distributor can source you what you want, it’ll typically be at a premium price with long deliveries and often doesn’t come out exactly how you want. When you buy directly from us, you cut out the middleman, eliminating the distributor mark up and allowing yourself the product flexibility and direct communication that you need. Tanneries Here’s the big one. We’re not the only tannery in the market for alligator skin. However, we are one of the only remaining independent alligator skin tanneries worldwide – meaning we are not owned by one of the major fashion houses. Being owned by a fashion house creates a huge conflict of interest for these tanneries as they market their alligator skin to brands outside of their corporate family. These tanneries typically charge very high prices and gain insight into their competition—you! We have no conflict of interest. Another major issue with other tanneries is that they’re mostly outside the US. As alligator skin is classified as a wildlife product, it’s subject to both US Customs and the Fish and Wildlife review which can take time. As a result, deliveries from foreign alligator skin tanneries commonly take several months. On the other hand, we tan and finish our skins here in the United States, which means that we can ship domestically with less delay while still fully complying with all US Fish and Wildlife requirements, including full documentation and g+ www.panamleathers.com 10 proper tagging. That means much faster deliveries without cutting corners. Communication is easy and clear as there are less time zone complications and no language barrier. In addition, we can provide much better service. For example, we can work with customers in person to develop product lines and make product adjustments in a matter of days. Manufacturers Your manufacturer will sometimes offer to source the alligator skin for you. This is a good option because they know exactly what they need to make what your products. Just make sure that they don’t overbuy so they can be less diligent about the cutting. Because then you end up paying for more skin than you actually needed. With that said, we respect our competitors very much. They are good at what they do and have been a positive force in our industry for a long time. We simply want you to know why we believe we can serve you better. g+ www.panamleathers.com 11 What Affects Alligator Skin Price Just like every other good that you can purchase, there are various factors that can affect the price of alligator skin. Mostly, it’s about supply and demand. However, there are other considerations that you’ll need to take into account when you’re buying alligator skin. Supply and Demand Factors Day to Day Factors In normal market conditions, the most influential supply and demand variables affecting the price of alligator skin are grade and size. The 40-60 cm skins with the fewest defects are the most sought after for handbags, garments, etc.; yet they are the hardest to come by. Large alligator skin comes from the wild. The larger the skin, the older the animal and thus the more it endured (scars, scratches, bites from fighting, feasting and general wear). So skins that are large in size are rarely in pristine condition. The few that are command top dollar in the marketplace. Environmental Conditions Like any other game, alligators are subject to environmental conditions and disasters. For instance, when Hurricane Katrina ripped through Louisiana in 2005, it destroyed the alligators’ habitat causing dramatic effects on their population from eggs to feeding patterns. Naturally, this affects the supply of alligator skin not only from the wild – but also from the farms. Farmers collect alligator eggs from the wild (approximately 14% of the alligators are returned to the wild at a certain age to conserve their population). This means that the disaster that immediately and harshly affected the wild population affects the farms a few years later. Katrina is a dramatic example. More normal shifts in annual weather patterns can also affect the availability of alligators. In fact, prices for wild alligator skin typically reset every year after the wild season. Cost Factors Naturally, a tannery will charge more for an alligator skin that costs more to produce. For example, basic finishes like matte and glazed are typically the least expensive. On the other hand, specialty finishes that require more work, g+ www.panamleathers.com 12 expensive chemicals or additional materials command a higher price. For example, shaving a skin to a thin, garment weight requires more time than shaving it to a heavier weight, say for handbags. Alligator skin with pearlized finishes requires chemicals that are very expensive versus the materials required to finish a matte skin. These types of costs are passed through to the customer, but they are relatively small compared to the other factors affecting price. To some extent, these factors are supply and demand driven as well. There are only a handful of tanneries worldwide that can make certain specialized products. So if you really want a special product, you have to pay that premium price because you can’t go anywhere else to get it. In the case that alligator skin needs to be made to order, the number of skins ordered per product will greatly affect the price. A lot of the work that goes into producing alligator skin is set up, like mixing chemicals or dyes, setting water temperatures, etc. Whether the tannery makes one alligator skin or 100 skins, the set up time is about the same. As a result, tanneries will typically apply substantial surcharges for smaller orders. g+ www.panamleathers.com 13 Thanks Again! Thanks again for reading our guide! We hope you found it helpful. Should you have any questions, don’t hesitate to call or email us. We’ve provided all of our contact information below. CONTACT US DIRECTLY: Phone: (978) 741-4150 Email: [email protected] Address: 325 West 38th Street Suite 1001 New York, NY 10018 CONNECT WITH US: http://www.panamleathers.com g+ http://www.youtube.com/user/panamericanleathers https://plus.google.com/117662900112591109944 @PanAmLeathers g+ www.panamleathers.com 14
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