MEAT PREPARATION AND PRESERVATION I N COLONIAL AMERICA*
D. M. KINSMAN
University of Connecticut
INTRODUC T ION
L e t us t u r n back t h e hands of t i m e t o t h e Colonial e r a of American
h i s t o r y , which we w i l l define as t h e period covering 1600-1800. Let us
focus on t h e preparation and preservation of meat i n t h e d i e t of those
e a r l i e s t s e t t l e r s and t h e i r successors during that time span. During
t h i s period of c o l o n i a l development and i n s p i r a t i o n , , p r e c i s e l y from
1607 t o 1776, many of 9u.r f i n e s t t r a d i t i o n s and h e r i t a g e s were established
and t h e methods of meat preparation and preservation have been ripened
by same 350 intervening years of adaptation as each of t h e t h i r t e e n
colonies contributed i t s own unique r e c i p e s t o American cooking.
From t h e meager supply of food and meat i n p a r t i c u l a r t h a t t h e
Jamestown Colony of 1607 and t h e Plymouth Colony of 1620 experienced
t o t h e v a s t s e l e c t i o n of today causes one t o r e f l e c t on t h e progress
of t h r e e c e n t u r i e s and t h e composite of recipes brought t o OUT shores
by peoples of many lands and t r a d i t i o n s that have blended t h e i r l i v e s
and t h e i r foods i n t o a s t y l e and a uniqueness that can only be described
as "American." That was a time when no automobiles, a i r p l a n e s , movies,
TV o r other d i s t r a c t i o n s that w e know today were present as a challenge
t o t h e family as an e n t i t y . The h e a r t h then drew t h e group within t h e
c i r c l e of i t s warmth and illumination.
The e a r l i e s t Virginia s e t t l e r s lived off t h e native w i l d l i f e u n t i l
they could e s t a b l i s h some domestication. By 1609, 60 pigs and 500
chickens were inventoried i n t h e colony. Captain John Smith wrote i n
h i s "General History of Virginia" that ''we d a i l y f e a s t e d on f i s h , fowle
and d i v e r s e s o r t s of w i l d b e a s t s , as f a t as we could e a t e them." ( 9 )
In 1610 Lord Delaware brought a good stock of cows, oxen and goats.
By 1656, John Hammond was e x t o l l i n g t h e f a c t that V i r g i n i a ' s " c a t t l e and
hogs a r e everywhere, which y i e l d beef, v e a l , m i l k , b u t t e r , cheese and
other made dishes, porke, bacon----and as sweet and savory meat as t h e
world a f f o r d s .I' ( 9 )
Meanwhile, in t h e h s s a c h u s e t t s Bay Colony white-tailed deer and
w i l d turkey W n i s h e d most of t h e meat supply f o r those e a r l y s e t t l e r s .
SquFrrel and r a b b i t were a l s o p l e n t i f u l . The beaver was considered
tough and d r y except f o r i t s t a i l . The polecat was sweet; t h e racoon,
higher i n r e l i s h than mutton; t h e wildcat, comparable t o v e a l , but
sweeter and more d e l i c a t e ; wild boar meat was savory and " l e a s t a p t t o
r i s e in t h e stomach." The f i r s t game l a w s were i n s t i t u t e d i n 1646 i n
*
Presented a t t h e 29th Annual Reciprocal Meat Conference of t h e American
Meat Science Association, 1976.
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Portsmouth, Rhode Island, when deer s e a s m w a s limited t o s i x months.
In 1636 a hog reeve ( c a t c h e r ) was appointed i n Boston and i n 1666 a
hog pound ( f o r strays) was established i n Newport, Rhode Island. Wild
duck, grouse, quail, r a b b i t s and black bear and f i s h were a l s o p l e n t i f u l
u n t i l domesticated l i v e s t o c k became established with t h e importation of
c a t t l e i n 1624 followed by goats, sheep and swine i n 1630.
MEAT SEIECTION
The e a r l y c o l o n i s t s brought with them Thomas Tusser's "Five Hundred
Pointes of Good Husbandrie, I' f i r s t p r i n t e d i n 1573, which recommended,
f o r example, " t o sow peason and beans, in t h e wane of t h e moon," but
t h i s was t o o g e n e r a l a reference f o r most Colonial housewives. "Country
Contentments" w r i t t e n i n 1615 by Gervase Markham included a s e c t i o n
which was o f t e n bound s e p a r a t e l y as "The English Housewife: Containing
t h e Inward and Outward Vertues which ought t o be in a Compleat Woman."
This book proved invaluable t o t h e Colonial housewife.
It was not u n t i l 1796, however, that t h e f i r s t cookbook of American
authorship was published. A m e l i a Simmons' "American Cookery or t h e A r t
of Dressing Viands, Fish, Poultry and Vegtables---(24). This book,
as d i d earlier works, included a s e c t i o n on "How t o choose Flesh." For
example :
Beef--the l a r g e s t a l l - - f e d ox beef is t h e b e s t ; it has a ooarse
open grain and o i l y smoothness; dent it with your f i n g e r and it
w i l l immediately r i s e again; i f old, it w i l l be rough and spungy,
and t h e dent remains. Veal--brought t o market i n c a r r i a g e s i s t o
be preferred t o that brought i n bags and flouncing on a sweaty
horse. hmb--if vein i n neck is blue, and i f i n t h e head t h e eyes
are full and b r i g h t , it is f r e s h ; i f t h e neck vein is green or
yellow, i f t h e hindquarter has a f a i n t disagreeable smell or t h e
knuckle is limber and/or if t h e eyes a r e sunken, it i s s t a l e .
Elizabeth Hammond's "Modern Domestic Cookery and Useful Receipt
Book Adapted f o r Families in t h e Middling and Genteel Ranks of Life"
(13) recommends f o r choosing provisions: F i n e s t ox beef is open grain,
agreeable carnation colour and of white s u e t . C a r beef is not s o open
in g r a i n nor red s o pleasant a colour. Bull beef is c l a m , rank,
c l o s e l y grained, dusky red and tough in pinching. h i t t o n and lamb
w i l l always prove t h e b e s t , t h e l e g s and shoulders of which a r e s h o r t
shanked. Pinch t h e f l e s h with your f i n g e r s : if it regains i t s former
state i n a s h o r t tinu3 it i s young; otherwise it is old and t h e f a t
clammy and f i b r o u s
Veal f l e s h of t h e cow c a l f is not s o b r i g h t a red nor s o firmly
grained as that of t h e b u l l c a l f , n e i t h e r i s t h e f a t s o much curdled.
P w k f l e s h should be cool and smooth. Put a f i n g e r under t h e edge
bone and if f l e s h be t a i n t e d you w i l l immediately discover it by
smelling t o your f i n g e r . Smell c a r e f u l l y t o t h e b e l l y and t h e l o i n ,
under t h e kidney which always t a i n t s f i r s t . Pork with s h o r t , t h i c k
necks a r e t h e b e s t .
Hams a r e best selected with s h o r t shanks. Try it w i t h a sharp
pointed knife, which thrust i n t o t h e f l e s h a s near the pope's eye a s
possible. If it comes out only a l i t t l e smeared and smells w e l l you
m y be assured that t h e ham is good, but, i f otherwise, it is good f o r
nothing
Beef is never out of season a l l t h e year round, though f o r s a l t i n g
and hanging it is best from Michaelmas t o kdy-day.
Mutton is in season from Mid-August till b y ; grass lamb, May till
September; house l a m b is i n high season a t Christmas but very good from
October t o May.
Pork comes i n season a t Michaelmas and continues s o till April;
but hams and bacon a r e never out of season when c a r e f b l l y cured.
Veal from i t s speedy decay i n hot o r close weather i s generally
alluwed t o be best from Christmas t o June.
The carving knife should be l i g h t , y e t of a s u f f i c i e n t s i z e , and
t h e edge very keen. In using it, no great personal strength i s a
r e q u i s i t e , as constant p r a c t i c e w i l l render it an easy t a s k t o carve
t h e most d i f f i c u l t a r t i c l e s , more depending on address than force; but
i n order t o prevent trouble, t h e j o i n t s of mutton, veal, l a m b , etc.,
should be divided by t h e butcher...and i n joints of beef and mutton t h e
knife should always be passed darn t h e bone by those who wish t o carve
with propriety and g r e a t a t t e n t i o n paid t o h e l p every person t o a
portion of t h e b e s t parts.
COOKING FAC ILITIES
THE FIREPIACE
The kitchen was the h e a r t of t h e home and t h e f i r e p l a c e i t s center.
Here l i f e w a s sustained with food and warmth and love. The e a r l y homes
were a c t u a l l y b u i l t around g r e a t stone f i r e p l a c e s that served f o r both
heating arod cooking. The warmth and love that emitted from t h e open
hearth made it t h e f o c a l point of family l i f e . It was t h e center of
a t t e n t i o n and s u r v i v a l providing heat, light and cooking source.
I n i t i a l l y a l l l i v i n g , eating and sleeping was in t h e large s i n g l e space
facing t h e f i r e p l a c e . In t h e north t h e f i r e p l a c e may have been on t h e
outer w a l l and l a t e r b u i l t in t h e center of t h e house f o r g r e a t e r heat
u t i l i z a t i o n . In t h e south, t h e f i r e p l a c e eventually was only i n an
adjacent food preparation building separated f r o m t h e main-house a s
were t h e other out-buildings f o r slaughtering, smoking and storage of
meat. Some northerners b u i l t summer kitchens a t t h e r e a r of t h e house
t o reduce heat within t h e home and permit one t o work i n a cooler
environment. The outer kitchen permitted the family t o be "pleasantly
r e w e d from t h e heat and odors of cooking."
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B u i l t i n t o some of t h e huge f i r e p l a c e s were benches where one could
s i t f o r warmth and fellowship. Many f i r e p l a c e s had small, elevated b r i c k
ovens b u i l t within t h e f i r e p l a c e . These u s u a l l y did not have t h e i r own
f l u e s . When a f i r e was b u i l t i n them t h e smoke would go up t h e main
chimney. When adequately heated, t h e b r i c k oven would be raked out and
t h e items t o be baked, such as beans, some meats and breads and p a s t r i e s
would be placed i n reverse order t o t h e i r removal time, and t h e mouth
closed with a wooden o r metal door. Later b r i c k ovens were b u i l t in
t h e s i d e or f r o n t of t h e f i r e p l a c e and had t h e i r own f l u e s .
Later innovations t o t h e f i r e p l a c e included t h e a d d i t i o n of t h e
" t i n kitchen" o r "Yankee baker," a r e f l e c t o r of b r i g h t tin that hastened
t h e cooking process by r e f l e c t i n g heat from t h e r e a r of t h e f i r e p l a c e
onto t h e r o a s t . The Dutch oven, a rounded t i n oven open a t t h e r e a r ,
which was exposed t o t h e f i r e , w i t h a s p i t and t u r n i n g handle and a
hinged viewing door a t t h e f r o n t w a s a l a t e r adaptation of t h e t i n
r e f l e c t o r . The Franklin stove introduced i n 1745 and t h e lnanufacture
of t h e first American cookstove, c a s t i n 1765, gradually led t o t h e
demise of t h e f i r e p l a c e or hearth as an American way of cooking.
UTENSILS
Within t h e chimney was built a l u g s t i c k , u s u a l l y a green timber,
and later i r o n rods, which supported t h e trammel or pot-hangers which
were a d j u s t a b l e t o some degree. These i n t u r n suspended t h e various
cooking v e s s e l s a t desired h e i g h t s . Later, cranes were i n s t a l l e d on
t h e s i d e of t h e f i r e p l a c e t o support t h e s e cooking u t e n s i l s . In time
t h e y were b u i l t t o swing into and out of t h e f i r e p i t t o eliminate
scorched eyebrows, smokey eyes and burnt aprons as w e l l as burned
through lugpoles t h a t i n t h e released t h e i r e n t i r e burden onto t h e
f i r e p l a c e occasionally scalding t h e cook and by-standers as w e l l as
r e q u i r i n g r e p l a c e m n t of t h e lugpole.
COOKING LMPLEMENTS
ltThe usual1 proportion t h e Virginia Company doe bestow upon t h e i r
Tenants they send" (27) was:
1 Iron pot
1K e t t e l
1 Frying Pan
.
1 Gridiron
2 Skillets
1s p i t
and p l a t t e r s , d i s h e s and spoons of wood as household implements f o r a
family of s i x
Only four s p i t s were l i s t e d i n t h e inventories f i l e d i n 1640.
Within the next t e n years 12 s p i t s were l i s t e d , t h r e e of them being
"jacks" (mechanically turned). The s p i t was b a s i c a l l y a sharpened iron
rod thrust through meat, some used skewers passed through s l o t s i n t h e
rod t o p o s i t i o n t h e roast and prevent t h e rod from t u r n i n g w i t h i n t h e
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roast. Three types of s p i t s were in common use, namelythe pronged,
skewered and basket design. The hand s p i t was u s u a l l y turned by a
p e r s p i r i n g c h i l d who roasted n e a r l y as f a s t as the meat. Later a
t r e a d m i l l s p i t powered by a dog w a s introduced and then s e v e r a l
ingenious clockw3rk and smoke a c t i v a t e d jacks were invented. A f o r e runner t o t h e s e w a s t h e "danglespit" a twisted rope which r o t a t e d a s
it unwound and rewound i t s e l f .
The pots, cauldrons and k e t t l e s were of c a s t i r o n i n i t i a l l y and
l a t e r of copper i n some households. They were suspended by t h e i r s t o u t
swinging bales or handles. Frying pans, s k i l l e t s , posnets and g r i d d l e s
were a l s o of c a s t i r o n and were very long handled t o prevent burning
t h e a t t e n d e n t . They may have been footed ( t h r e e legged) t o r a i s e them
above t h e burning coals o r they may have been flat-bottom and r e s t e d on
t r i v e t s f o r t h e same purpose. The g r i d i r o n , which w a s b a r r e d . was a l s o
footed and long handled and o f t e n was accompanied by a s p a t u l a r shaped
long-handled salamander f o r s e a r b g t h e meat. With t h e s e b a s i c culinary
t o o l s , then t h e e a r l y Colonial housewife was expected t o s a t i s f y t h e
robust a p p e t i t e s of her a c t i v e hard-working, "sun-up t o sun-down" family.
With t h e s t a g e s e t , l e t us t u r n our a t t e n t i o n t o t h e a c t u a l methods of
meat cookery that were practiced under t h e s e e a r l y American conditions.
MEAT COOKXRY
"She that is ignorant i n cookery, m y love and obey, but she cannot
c h e r i s h and keep her husband."
The English Housewife by Gervase E a r k h a m ,
(1615). Colonial housewives were warned of t h e f a u l t s of meat, such as:
1. Meat t o o new, served up t o o f r e s h , with a l l t h e toughness of animal
muscle yet warm. 2. Woeful l a c k of n i c e t y in t h e butcher's work of
c u t t i n g and preparing meat coarse, roughly-hacked s t r i p s of bone, g r i s t l e
and meat. 3. Cookery: a. those whose object is t o e x t r a c t t h e j u i c e and
d i s s o l v e t h e f i b e r (1)soups ( 2 ) stews, b . That desired t o keep t h e
j u i c e s within t h e meat (1)baking o r roasting, ( 2 ) broyling, ( 3 ) f r y i n g .
"One g r e a t l a w governs a l l t h e s e preparations: t h e a p p l i c a t i o n of heat
must be gradual, steady, long p r o t r a c t e d , never reaching t h e point of
a c t i v e b o i l i n g . Hours of q u i e t simmering d i s s o l v e a l l d i s s o l u b l e parts,
s o f t e n t h e s t e r n e s t f i b r e and unlock every minute c e l l i n which nature
has s t o r e d away h e r t r e a s u r e s of nourishment. There i s no aninrtl f i b r e
that w i l l not y i e l d itself up to long continued, steady h e a t . Meat f a s t
boiled is meat h a l f spoiled." (4)
MIIST KEAT COOKERY
Boiling
Boiling w a s considered t h e ''most easy of digestion but not t h e most
It w a s t h e e a s i e s t way t o cook meat as it required " l e s s
n u t r i t i o u s .I'
Nicety and Attendance" which permitted t h e housewife t o go about her
many other chores while t h e pot g e n t l y simmered i t s contents. Usually
t h i s process was s t a r t e d with cold water, e s p e c i a l l y f o r s a l t e d meats.
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The f r e s h meat was added a f t e r t h e water boiled whereas t h e cured meat
was covered with t h e cold water then heated. F i f t e e n minutes per pound
w a s recommended cooking time.
A cook cannot make any g r e a t e r mistake than t o l e t any s o r t of
meat b o i l fast, s i n c e it hardens t h e outside before it is w a r m w i t h i n
and contributes t o discolour it. S t a r t with cold water. Keep surface
and use clean sauce pans. Meat e a t s much b e t t e r if
w e l l sk-d
"suffered t o hang" a few days. k a t during t h e summer months should
be well-examined t o discover t h e f l y blows, which should be c a r e f u l l y
cut off and t h e part then washed.
-
Parboil'ing consisted of placing a l a r g e cut of meat, such as a leg,
loin, breast, neck, nunp or haunch i n cold, salted water and over a Large,
c l e a r f i r e f o r steady even cooking f o r 15 minutes per pound u n t i l b o i l i n g
time. Remove t h e scum until c l e a r
It is done when "bone on t h e under
part comes o f f with e a s e O t 1Some examples of Colonial b o i l e d meats were:
Spring or hand of pork (shoulder): Fill t h e pot w i t h s u f f i c i e n t q u a n t i t y
of s o f t water. Boil slowly. Leg of v e a l : The slower it b o i l s t h e
whiter and plumper and j u i c i e r it w i l l b e ,
Simmer iq
Soups and stews were a major and important b i l y menu, u t i l i z i n g
t h e bones and trimmings from t h e carcasses combined w i t h vegetables t o
provide nourishing, s a t i a t i n g meals. The soup was always "on" i n t h e
Colonial kitchens and a l i t t l e more water added t o t h e pot would always
t t s t r e t c h l t t h e menu t o serve unexpected guests. A popular stew of t h e
day consisted of 1 pound beef, 3/4 pound pork, 1/2 pound v e a l , and 1/k
pound lamb c u t i n t o cubes, cooked i n one k e t t l e . Potatoes, c a r r o t s ,
onions and c e l e r y , cooked in sequence i n another and then t h e meat and
vegetables combined with seasoning t o simmer together
To cook tuugh beef it was recommended t o use e i g h t pounds of beef
i n four q u a r t s of water with two tablespoons of s a l t , 1/2 teaspoon of
pepper, 3 teaspoons of vinegar and 4 teaspoons of sugar. Put on a t 8
a.m. and slmmer u n t i l t h e water is half' gone, skim o f f grease, s e t i n
oven u n t i l t h e water is a l l gone except f o r a teacup full, f o r gravy.
DRY HEAT COOKING
Roasting o r Baking
Roasting meat t o p e r f e c t i o n depended on:
1. Cleanliness of t h e equipment, e s p e c i a l l y being free of r u s t
and rancid o i l
2.
Quality of t h e f i r e ; being clean and b r i s k and c l e a r a t t h e
bottom.
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3. Distance of t h e mat from t h e f i r e , which came Largely from
experience
4.
.
Frequency of basting, producing t h e f l a v o r , t e x t u r e and appearance.
Meat should never be s a l t e d before being placed on t h e s p i t a s
s a l t ''draws out a l l t h e gravy."
Buttered paper was o f t e n used t o cover t h e r o a s t i n t h e e a r l y
stages of cooking and l a t e r t h e roast was dredged with f l o u r and turned
quickly a few times "to xmke a f i n e f r o t h . "
"hen t h e steam fram t h e meat is drawn toward t h e f i r e , ' t i s a
s i g n it is near done .I1
Roasting w a s reserved f o r t h e more tender c u t s of meat. The key
t o good r o a s t i n g technique was t o "turn o f t e n and b a s t e often."
A t h i n or small r o a s t requlred a b r i s k f i r e t o be done quickly and
n i c e l y . A l a r g e j o i n t needed a large f i r e kept constantly f r e e from
ashes a t t h e bottoan and t h e f i r e should never be s t i r r e d during r o a s t i n g .
If' that were necessary t h e meat and s p i t should be removed t o a g r e a t e r
d i s t a n c e . All meat should be washed then d r i e d w e l l before placing on
t h e s p i t . Paper t h e f a t , b a s t e w e l l then dredge with flour. Raise t h e
s k i n ( f e l l ) on a pork l o i n and c u t across ( s c o r e ) t o m k e t h e cracklings
e a t b e t t e r . A l e g of pork should be scored and t h e knuckle s t u f f e d with
sage and onion chopped f i n e
A dripping pan was used i n r o a s t i n g t o c a t c h t h e drippings t o which
water was added f o r basting. When t h e r o a s t w a s nearly done t h e drippings
were not d i l u t e d but allowed t o concentrate f o r gravy.
B r o ilinq
Brayling ( b r o i l i n g ) consisted of cooking on a g r i d i r o n made of
seven parallel i r o n b a r s i n a frame, standing on s h o r t legs and equipped
with a long handle. These b a r s , when heated, were rubbed with clean
mutton suet t o prevent t h e meat from s t i c k i n g and d i s c o l o r i n g . It was
then plsced d i r e c t l y over t h e bed of coals o r upon a brandreth ( i r o n
t r i v e t o r t r i p o d with longer l e g s ) . Successful b r o i l i n g depended
upon: (1)8 c l e a r f i r e (coke cinder p r e f e r a b l y ) ( 2 ) a clean g r i d i r o n
( 3 ) a quick eye t o watch ( 4 ) a ready hand t o t u r n (5),never b a s t e ( 6 )
serve hot; "immediately from t h e gridiron".
Fryinq
It i s a coarse and greasy kind of cookery, in'fashion i n t h e
country, where t h e r e a r e g r e a t a p p e t i t e s and strong s t o m c h s , b u t i s
a t p r e s e n t l y l e f t o f f i n g e n t e e l f a m i l i e s , except f o r n i c e t h i n g s (beef
steaks cut t h i n n e r than f o r brayling; c u t l e t s of v e a l and pork, t r i p e )
and i n a p a r t i c u l a r manner" (9)
11
24
Frying was considered t h e most slovenly and unhealthful mode of
cooking. If it must be employed it was recommended t o use hot f a t ,
l a r d o r s u e t ; cook on a g r i d d l e and pour off t h e f a t . Another source
suggested a clean pan with plenty of drippings o r hog's l a r d .
Poaching, as f r y i n g w a s a l s o c a l l e d , was considered dangerous,
r e q u i r i n g c l o s e r a t t e n t i o n f o r f e a r t h a t s p h t t e r i n g f a t or grease
could cause t h e f i r e t o f l a r e unduly o r scald t h e a t t e n d a n t .
A f a v o r i t e Colonial d i s h known as "Bubble and Squeak" was composed
of f r i e d beef and cabbage, b e s t described by t h e d i t t y :
'when m i d s t t h e f r y i n g pan i n accents savage,
The beef so s u r l y q u a r r e l s with t h e cabbage."
Generally, meat f o r f r y i n g was mechanically tenderized p r i o r t o
cooking by one of s e v e r a l methods prevalent then. One common means
w a s t o b e a t o r hack t h e meat with a r o l l i n g p i n o r t h e back of a k n i f e .
Axe handles and hammers were sometimes used as meat t e n d e r i z e r s , also.
An example of t h i s was Collops: "cut meat i n t h i n s l y c e s and l a y on
t a b l e , b e a t with back of knife, s t e e p i n vinegar o r verges, l a y i n
f r y i n g pan, put t o them a s t r o n g b r o t h and h a l f e a p i n t e of f a i r e water,
add herbs and spices and boyle till t h e i r meat be tender." (16)
RECIPES
Early American r e c i p e s r e v e a l much about t h e customs and h a b i t s of
t h e period. America was a "hodge podge" of n a t i o n a l i t i e s . In 1776
more th&n 40 percent of t h e white Colonials were non-English, namely
Dutch, Finnish, French, German, I r i s h , Scot, Spanish, Swedish, Swiss
and Welsh. Additionally, t h e black influence w a s a l s o r e f l e c t e d i n t h e
food preparation methods e s p e c i a l l y i n t h e Southern colonies. So t h e
g r e a t e s t influence on American cooking was e t h n i c and i n i t i a l l y was
s p e c i f i c t o t h e colony where t h e people usually represented only a
s i n g l e n a t i o n a l i t y . Thus one notes t h e menu, mat and cookery preference
of t h e English settlements in New England, hhryland and Virginia; Dutch
i n New York and Pennsylvania; Swedish in Delaware; German i n t h e Carolinas
and Pennsylvania where t h e Rhinelanders, Moravians, Mennonites and
Crefelders s e t t l e d ; Scots in New Jersey; and French (Hugenots) i n
Georgia and t h e Carolinas, plus t h e contribution of other n a t i o n a l i t i e s
sprinkled throughout t h e colonies
b n y sources c i t e d i n t h e bibliography l i s t s p e c i f i c r e c i p e s of
t h e s e many peoples. These a r e too numeruus t o enumerate h e r e but it
is i n t e r e s t i n g t o note a few of t h e t y p i c a l and sane unusual ones by
t i t l e o r d e s c r i p t i o n a t t h i s time.
C a If head
C a l f l i v e r s marinated
Chine of lanib and collops
Chump of v e a l
Collared v e a l
25
Caw h e e l pudding
Dawlet ( v e a l ) pye
Fricassey of double t r i p e
F r i c a s s i e d sheep's t r o t t e r s
Haunch of venison
Hog c h i t t e r l i n g s
Lambs head and appurtenances
Mock t u r t l e
Mutton hams
P a t t y of c a l v e s ' b r a i n s
P i g s ' e a r s ragoo'd
Pork g r i s k i n
Ragoo of beef palates
Ragoo of v e a l sweetbreads
Saddle of mutton w i t h kidneys
Savory lamb pye
Stewed ox cheek
Stewed rump of beef
Tongues and udders roasted
A few detailed r e c i p e s follow:
To Turtle a Calf's Head: The Calf's head must be scalded and not
f l e a d , cut in s l i c e s about the s i z e of a cruwn piece. Take a l s o some
neats f o o t , stew t h e s e i n good v e a l broth, put it t o an onion, a faggot
of sweet herbs, h a l f a p i n t of madiera and a teaspoonful of red pepper,
keep it stewing till q u i t e tender, and serve it up i n your tureen with
forced meat b a l l s and yolks of eggs boiled hard.
To Pot Beef (or Venison): Take w h a t ' s l e f t that's tender of a
haunch of beef (venison), pick out a l l t h e sinews, f a t , e t c . , put i n a
stone mortar, beat it w e i l i when it grows hard put i n some & l i e d b u t t e r
t o s o f t e n it, beat it t o a paste and till t h e r e a r e no s t r i n g s l e f t and
pour c l a r i f i e d b u t t e r over it, then s e t it i n an oven a f t e r bread i s
drawn and l e t it stand 20 minutes.
A Terrine of Mutton T a i l s : Stew them w e l l i n a saucepan, when
thoroughly done put some t u r n i p s w e l l fried t o them, put them in a
strong broth or t h e j u i c e t h e t a i l s were stewed in, add some strong
gravy and stew them a l l together taking care t h e sauce i s not t o o
l i q u i d , add lemon j u i c e t o your t a s t e and serve it.
Boeuf "remblant: Put a b r i s k e t of beef i n a pot, cover it with
water and when it b o i l s , scum it thoroughly, then add 4 onions, 4 bay
leaves, a faggot of thyme, and parsley, 4 good handfuls of s a l t , cover
it very close, l e t it stew f o r about 7 hours till its so tender you may
run a straw through it and put a l i t t l e liquor over it.
Roast Leg of Mutton: lay a l e g of mutton in a q u a r t of vinegar
f o r t h r e e days, s l i c e i n 4 onions or g a r l i c , a handful of sweet herbs
and a s m a l l q u a n t i t y of m c e and cloves pounded. Lard your mutton with
bacon rubbed in pepper, roast it and bast it with w h a t it l a y i n , put
t o it a s t r o n g brown gravy f o r sauce.
26
The dinner menus f o r every week a t %ode Island College in 1773
included: 2 meals of s a l t beef and pork, with proper sauce and vegetables
2 m e a l s of f r e s h meat, r m s t e d , baked, broiled, or f r i e d ,
with proper sauce and vegetables
1 meal of soup and fragments
1 meal of boiled f r e s h meat with proper sauce and broth
1 m e a l of s a l t or f r e s h f i s h , with brawn bread
Certainly t h e American menus over t h e centuries have evolved from
t h e customs an3 t r a d i t i o n s of many people from many l a n d s and a r e a
r e f l e c t i o n of t h e i r socio-economic-religious influences during t h e i r
e a r l y days on t h i s continent and t h e i r successors s i n c e . %hen we
forget our p a s t we weaken our heritage" (17). Our unique menus should
constantly remind us of our past s o our h e r i t a g e should be strong and
appreciated.
MEAT PRESERVATION
"The very discovery of t h e New World w a s t h e by-product of a
d i e t a r y quest." Arthur M. Schlesinger, author of Paths t o t h e Present.
The need f o r spices frcm t h e Orient t o season and preserve t h e
meats of Europe was a major incentive f o r t h e search f o r sea-going
routes t o t h e Spice Islands that led to t h e discovery of America. One
of t h e most formidable problems faced by t h e American pioneers w a s t h e
preservation of meat. The most widely practised methods were s a l t i n g ,
pickling, and drying. I n New England, t h e "three S ' s , ' ' s a l t , smoke and
snow were t h e standard meat preservatives. The brine of t h e pork b a r r e l ,
t h e smoke from corn cobs and t h e icy c h i l l i n e s s of winter cold rooms saw
many a northern c o l o n i a l family through what might otherwise have been a
d i s a s t r o u s year.
Fresh meat was seldom eaten i n t h e summer. Lf slaughtering was done
i n w a r m weather t h e meat was divided among neighbors or given i n payment
t o physicians, lawyers or c l e r g y f o r immediate consumption. Return i n
kind was expected from neighbors before September.
SHORT TERM STORAGE
For s t o r i n g f r e s h meat f o r a s h o r t time t h e c o l o n i s t s r e l i e d on
t h e coolness of t h e w e l l or t h e c e l l a r t o reduce spoilage during w a r m
weather. Some recommended washing f r e s h meat with milk and water,
drying it "perfectly w i t h c l o t h till t h e r e is not t h e least damp
remaining then dust gruund pepper over every p a r t , this i s a good
preservative against t h e f l y . When dressing, wash with lukewarm water
and wipe dry."
(15) The herb Tansy was highly esteemed as a medicine,
a cosmetic, a flavoring and ingredient i n cooking. It was rubbed over
raw meat t o keep t h e f l i e s away and prevent decay.
27
SALTING
"You b e t t e r put your k i l l i n g i n b r i n e f o r about six weeks; t h e
shoulders and hindquarters f o r ham, t h e f a t pieces alongside f o r bacon.
They'll taste uncommon good i f you do them r i g h t . " (11)
Salted meats were t h e m i n s t a y of t h e d i e t of t h e first s e t t l e r s
b o t h enroute crossing t h e A t l a n t i c Ocean as w e l l as when first l i v i n g
in t h e New World. Relying p r i m a r i l y on t h e hunt f o r t h e i r meat supply,
t h e e a r l i e s t s e t t l e r s consumed f r e s h that which they could u t i l i z e
before spoilage s e t i n and packed t h e remainder in s a l t . Some s e t t l e ments were founded because of t h e i r proximity t o s a l t l i c k s o r s a l t beds.
Each household had a b i g b a r r e l f i l l e d with brine i n which butchered
meat was steeped.
Dry Cure
For dry s a l t i n g meats s e v e r a l examples included:
S a l t Beef (13)--sprinkle w e l l with salt; s i x hours l a t e r hang up
t o drain; then rub w e l l with s a l t and l a y i n a s a l t i n g tub, c l o s e l y
covered t u r n d a i l y . Salvage b r i n e by b o i l i n g and scumming.
S a l t Pork (13)--cut i n t o pieces t o f i t p n , rub w e l l with s a l t p e t r e ,
t h e n take two p i n t s of common s a l t and rub w e l l . Put l a y e r of c o m n
s a l t a t bottom of v e s s e l , cover pack with s a l t ; add s a l t as it melts;
l a y coarse c l o t h over v e s s e l , place a board over that and a weight on
t o p of the board. Cover c l o s e l y and it w i l l keep t h e whole year.
S a l t Bacon (25)--cut your f l i t c h e s of bacon very smooth. To about
t h r e e score pounds of bacon, t e n pounds of s a l t ; d r y your s a l t very
w e l l and m k e it hot, then rub it hard over t h e outside o r skinny p a r t ,
but on t h e i n s i d e Lay it a l l over, without rubbing, only l i g h t l y on,
about half an inch t h i c k . Let it be on a f l a t board, that t h e b r i n e
may r u n from it, nine days; then mix with a quart of h o t s a l t , four
pennyworth of s a l t p e t r e and stew it a l l over your bacon; then h e a t t h e
r e s t of your s a l t and put over it and l e t it l i e nine days longer, then
hang it up a day, and put it in a chlmney where wood is burnt and t h e r e
l e t it hang t h r e e weeks o r more, as you s e e occasion.
Curing Hams (13)--rub one ounce s a l t p e t r e i n t o each ham, one-half
ounce of s a l - p r u n e l l a pounded, and one pound common s a l t . Lay them i n
salt pans f o r t e n days, t u r n once a d rub with common s a l t . Lay another
t e n days, t u r n i n g d a i l y . Then t a k e out, scrape clean and d r y w e l l with
c l o t h . Rerub with s a l t , hang t o dry, b u t not i n t o o w a r m a place.
Bacon (l3)--rub with salt, both s i d e s ;
p i n t of bay s a l t and four ounces s a l t p e t r e ,
coarse sugar and one-quarter pack of common
b a s t e every day f o r f o r t n i a t , t h e n hang i n
d r y place not touching other meat or w a l l s .
l i e f o r week, then t a k e a
b e a t them f i n e , two pounds
s a l t , rub, l a y in tub and
woodsmoke. Then hang i n
28
-
Hams (l3)--moisten with molasses; f o r every 100 pounds of hams use
one q u a r t f i n e s a l t , four ounces s a l t p e t r e , rub i n thoroughly; place i n
t i g h t cask f o r four days, then rerub and r e s t o r e f o r f o u r days, repeat
process f o r third and f o u r t h times and then smoke. Total process 16
days.
Best Bacon (24)--use one ounce s a l t p e t r e , one p i n t bay s a l t , one
p i n t molasses and shake t o g e t h e r with bacon f o r 6-8 weeks. Baste with
l i q u o r every day, take out t o dry, smoke t h r e e weeks with cobs or malt
fumes. For t r a n s p o r t a t i o n o r exportat ion double t h e period of smoking.
Take f o u r
Hunter's Beef (l3)--bone a round and hang it 4 days
ounces of coarse sugar, four ounces s a l t p e t r e , two ounces cloves, two
nutmegs, one ounce a l l s p i c e and one-half pound of common s a l t and reduce
t h e s e ingredients t o a f i n e puwder, which must be rubbed w e l l i n t o the
meat. Turn and rub beef d a i l y f o r one month. Wash off loose s p i c e ,
then bind up w e l l and put i n t o a n earthen pan with one-half p i n t water a t
bottom and cover with f i n e l y chopped s u e t . Then cover a l l with t h i c k
coarse c r u s t and brown paper. Place in oven and bake f o r 7-8 hours.
Remove p a s t e and binding and s e r v e .
."
It was said that "North of t h e Potomoc one may f i n d good beef and
bad bacon; and south of t h e Potomoc, good bacon and bad beef
(7)
BrFne Cure
In c o n t r a s t t o t h e dry s a l t cure most popular i n t h e south, t h e
c o l o n i s t s t o t h e north used a b r i n e cure more frequently. One b r i n e or
p i c k l e f o r 100 pounds of beef curing (13) consisted of f o u r q u a r t s rock
s a l t , pounded f i n e ; four Ounces of s a l t p e t r e ; and four pounds of brown
sugar mixed w e l l and water added.
Another b r i n e or p i c k l e f o r corning or curing was composed of two
pounds rock salt, two ounces s a l t p e t r e , one q u a r t molasses t o which four
g a l l o n s of water w a s added and i n t o t h i s b r i n e t h e meat was immersed f o r
s Ix weeks.
Westphal3.a Bacon (25)--wss produced by nraking a p i c k l e from a
mixture of 8 q u a r t e r peck of bay salt, a q u a r t e r peck of white salt,
one q u a r t e r pound of s a l t p e t r e , one puund of p e t r e s a l t , one pound
coarse sugar and one Ounce socho t i e d up i n a r a g i n a g a l l o n of pump
water. B o i l a l l of t h e s e , then allow t o stand till ' t i s cold. Put
pork i n t o this b r i n e f o r a f o r t n i g h t . Remove and d r y over sawdust.
Yorkshire Ham (13)--take 3 middling sized hams, beat them w e l l
then mix half a peck of s a l t , t h r e e ounces s a l t p e t r e , one-half ounce
s a l -prunella and f i v e pounds coarse s a l t . Rub w e l l , lay t h r e e days
and then hmg. h k e p i c k l e t o bear and egg. Then b o i l and s t r a i n b r i n e .
Immerse pork f o r a f o r t n i g h t , rub w e l l with bran and then dry. When
smoked, hang f o r one o r two months in a damp place t o make them mouldy.
Then wrap w e l l in brown paper and hang i n a very dry place. Place in
cold water on f i r e f o r f o u r hours before b o i l i n g . Skim pot w e l l and
o f t e n before it b o i l s . Then b o i l f o r two hours.
DRYING AND SbDKLNG
The American Indians contributed much t o t h e sustenance and s u r v i v a l
of t h e e a r l i e s t s e t t l e r s through t h e i r f r i e n d l y gestures of food,' shared
hunting s k i l l s and meat preparation and preservation methods. One of
t h e s e was that of drying meat on racks in t h e sun or over f i r e s . Smking
of meats imparted both a drying and f l a v o r i n g e f f e c t which was soon
u t i l i z e d f o r cured meats.
A "meat house" was one of t h e f i r s t buildings erected by t h e
c o l o n i s t s and it served both f o r smoking and s t o r i n g smoked meats. The
smoke house was t h e e a r l y butcher shop. One source (11)s t a t e d "Be sure
your smokehouse is a i r t i g h t , then make a f i r e i n t h e p i t , of good hickory
wood. L e t it smoke away u n t i l t h e h a m is sure smoked through and then
y o u ' l l t a s t e that s p e c i a l f l a v o r that only old hickory can give."
Smoke c l o s e t s were b u i l t i n t o m n y houses, connected w i t h t h e g r e a t
chimney, generally on t h e second f l o o r o r a t t i c where they caught t h e
escaping smoke f r o m t h e h e a r t h below and used it t o smoke t h e meats
hanging from i r o n rods and hooks
O"HE3 METHODS
Vinegar was widely used as a preservative but generally f o r s h o r t
term s t o r a g e of a few weeks t o a month. Meat was kept immersed i n the
vinegar and turned p e r i o d i c a l l y .
Concentrating some items, such as soup, w a s another method employed.
"Pocket soup" or "cake soup" was made (26) by g e n t l y b o i l i n g a l e g of
v e a l u n t i l t h e l i q u o r made a strong j e l l y when cold. This g e l was
s t r a i n e d and poured i n t o cups and g e n t l y boiled u n t i l it became " t h i c k
as glue." It was t h e n cooled and turned onto a piece of new f l a n n e l
and could then be c a r r i e d i n t h e pocket or i n a l a d y ' s handbag ready
f o r easy r e c o n s t i t u t i o n in hot water. One pound of t h i s "pocket soup''
would "keep a body i n good h e a r t " f o r about a month.
Potting w a s widely practiced f o r cooked meats t o preserve them f o r
an extended period. B a s i c a l l y t h i s consisted of placing t h e meat i n
earthenware crocks and s e a l i n g them with c l a r i f i e d b u t t e r .
John Winthrop i n h i s Journal r e f e r s t o f e a s t i n g with Governor
Endecott of t h e Salem Colony on 'k good venison pasty and good beer"
i n June, 1628. He describes t h e venison pasty as being prepared by
cooking t h e venison i n t h e oven i n pots sealed with p a s t r y , d r a i n off
t h e broth; l e t pot and meat cool, then repack t h e pot with the meat,
over which you pour " b u t t e r very w e l l c l a r i f i e d " t o a height of 2 inches
above t h e meat. The next day 'ebinde it up very close with a piece of
sheeps l e a t h e r so that no a i r can g e t it. After which you may keep it
as long as you please."
The Lady's Companion (22) offered a r e c i p e f o r p o t t i n g meat by
c u t t i n g i n t o pieces t o make c o l l a r s , Lard with s t r i p s of bacon, then
season with pepper, nutmegs, cloves, and mace beaten and mixed w i t h
as much s a l t as w i l l make t h e spices greyish i n color. Roll up c o l l a r s ,
place i n earthen pot with good q u a n t i t y of b u t t e r ; cover pot with
coarse p a s t e and bake f o r f i v e o r six hours, stand till cool, pour off
gravy, place i n c l a r i f i e d b u t t e r . "It w i l l keep good a year
."
Other p o t t i n g recipes (6) include beef baked, with u s u a l seasonings
and plenty of b u t t e r , and thoroughly drained. The meat is then beaten
i n a mortar, with f r e s h b u t t e r , u n t i l it becomes a f i n e p a s t e . Then it
is pressed darn c l o s e i n a pot, sealed with c l a r i f i e d b u t t e r a n d stored
i n a cool, dry p l a c e . When used, c u t out i n s l i c e s and serve garnished
with curled p a r s l e y . Pork sausage, fried i n cakes o r b a l l s , was potted
i n much t h e same manner but sealed with melted lard, r a t h e r t h a n b u t t e r .
Frequently srnaller amounts were placed i n jars and sealed w i t h o i l ,
b u t t e r o r mutton f a t and t h e jar mouth capped with a bladder or coarse
cloth.
A recipe f o r "very f i n e sausage" i s a modification of t h e "potting"
method
Take a l e g of pork o r veal; pick it clean from s k i n o r f a t , and t o
every pound of lean meat put two pounds of beef s u e t , picked from
t h e skins; shred t h e meat and s u e t s e v e r a l l y very f i n e ; then m i x
them very w e l l together, and add a l a r g e handful of green sage
shred very small, season it with grated nutmeg, s a l t and pepper;
mix it well, and press it down hard i n an earthen pot, and keep
it f o r u s e . When you use them, r o l l them up w i t h enough egg a s
w i l l nrake them r o l l smooth, but use no f l o u r ; i n r o l l i n g them up,
make them t h e length of your f i n g e r , and as t h i c k as two f i n g e r s ;
f r y them i n c l a r i f i e d s u e t , which mst be b o i l i n g h o t before you
put them i n . "Keep them r o l l i n g about i n t h e pan; when they a r e
f r i e d through they a r e enough."
S U W Y
."
"The h e r i t a g e of t h e past i s t h e seed that brings f o r t h t h e harvest
National Archives, Washington, D .C
of t h e f u t u r e
In r e t r o s p e c t , meat preparation and preservation, as we know it
today, is not t o o g r e a t l y dif'ferent b a s i c a l l y from that practiced by
our e a r l y American f o r e f a t h e r s . Meat cookery today is of two fundamental methods: d r y heat c o n s i s t i n g of r o a s t i n g and b r o i l i n g , and moist
h e a t , u t i l i z i n g b r a i s i n g and simmering or cookfng i n liquid, j u s t as
they were employed two and t h r e e c e n t u r i e s ago i n Colonial America.
Granted, our equipment and u t e n s i l s a r e much more s o p h i s t i c a t e d and
our heat source and controls much more convenient, but t h e same b a s i c
p r i n c i p l s apply t o proper meat cookery.
Meat preservation methods have changed more o r been expanded with
t h e introduction of a r t i f i c i a l r e f r i g e r a t i o n which a f f o r d s t h e modern
American t h e g r e a t advantage of holding f r e s h meat f o r a much longer
period of time. Furthermore, by freezing meat below 0' F we enjoy
another g r e a t advantage over our a n c e s t o r s . Other m a n s ; such as
canning, freeze-drying and r a d i a t i o n preservation are more recent
innovations t h a t o f f e r us even g r e a t e r f l e x i b i l i t y today. However,
curing and smoking and drying of meats as practised during t h e e a r l y
development of t h i s country was, i n p r i n c i p a l , not g r e a t l y d i f f e r e n t
than that done i n t h e industry today, except f o r pumping products and
t h e environment i n which t h i s is accomplished.
We are t r u l y t h e b e n e f i c i a r i e s of our h e r i t a g e and as we r e f l e c t ,
i n t h i s Bicentennial Year, w e must acknowledge t h e hardships overcome
by t h e devotion and ingenuity of our predecessors. We must appreciate
t h e blending of customs and t r a d i t i o n s of nrany countries i n t h e formation
of what we term "American." C e r t a i n l y we owe an e v e r l a s t i n g debt of
g r a t i t u d e t o those dedicated, hardworking, perservering, God-fearing
people who developed t h e g r e a t nation we know today. This was made
possible t o a g r e a t degree by t h e wonderful pioneer women whose family
h e a l t h was based l a r g e l y on t h e n u t r i t i o u s meals she supervised o r
prepared with t h e meat portion as t h e f o c a l point of t h e menu. We
must give heed t o a g r e a t p a t r i o t and thinker of our Colonial e r a ,
Benjamin Franklin (12)who wrote: "If thou a r t d u l l and heavy a f t e r
Meat, i t ' s a s i g n thou hast exceded t h e due Measure; f o r Meat and Drink
ought t o r e f r e s h t h e Body, and make it cheerful, and not too d u l l and
oppress it . ' I
EARLY AMERICAN MEAT GLOSSARY
Bay s a l t - - c o a r s e s a l t c r y s t a l s from seawater evaporation.
Best end o r chump end--loin.
Chine--out of meat that includes any s e c t i o n of backbone and adjacent
flesh
Collar--prepare meat by r o l l i n g it i n t o a c o i l o r t i g h t cylinder and
binding or t i e i n g it with a s t r i n g .
Dressing--preparing meat f o r cooking.
Flea--to s k i n or beat neat.
F l i t c h - - t h i c k s l i c e of! s i d e of meat, such as bacon.
"Forced meat"--remove l a r g e part of meat from i n s i d e t h e c u t , chop o r
grind it with a p e s t l e , combine with egg yolk, s u e t ,
bread crumbs, herbs, spices and other seasonings t o form
a stuffing.
Fricassee--cooking m e t h d whereby meat is c u t i n t o serving s i z e s then
f r i e d o r stewed in i t s own gravy.
Froth--to heat t o bubbling or t o brown just before serving.
Griskin--loin ( o r pork)
Haslet -edible i n t e r n a l organs of a n i m l s
Haunch--leg and part of t h e loin, i . e . venison, mutton.
H u n g meat--suspended above ground f o r curing.
.
-
.
32
33
jacks
clock lack
J
oc, k - a n d - e y e
chain
t i n Dutch oven
R
H
p r o n g e d splt
basket s p l t
Reproduced by permission from "Colonial Virginia Cookery"
by Jane Carson, A Colonial Williamsburg Publication.
34
Middling--pork c u t from t h e center portion of a pork carcass.
Neat --bovine ( cows, oxen, b u l l s )
Palates--meat c u t s that include t h e r o o f of an animal's mouth and t h r o a t .
Peter -salt --unref ined s a l t p e t r e
Pot--preserve i n container.
Ragout--highly seasoned stew of meat and vegetables.
Rand--long s t r i p of meat; in beef, the s e c t i o n between t h e f l a n k and t h e
buttock.
Saddle--two loins.
Scrag--lean piece of meat, such as a neck o r back.
Suet--crunibly f a t around t h e kidneys and l o i n s of c a t t l e and sheep.
Trussing--tieing o r skewering meat f o r cooking.
Wallop--to b o i l vigorously.
.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
1.
Alcott, W i l l i a m A . The Young Housekeeper or Thoughts on Food and
Cookery. Boston, Massachusetts. 1842.
2. American Heritage Cookbook.
1964.
American Heritage Publishing Co.,
Inc.
3.
Beecher, Catherine. Domestic Receipt Book.
Publishers, New York, N .Y.
1853.
4.
Beecher, Catherine E . and Harriet Beecher Stowe. The New Housekeeper's Manual. J. B. Ford and Co., New York, N.Y.
1871.
5.
Beef Industry Council. The Bicentennial Beef Cookbook.
Livestock and Meat Board, Chicago, I l l i n o i s
1975.
6.
Booth, S a l l y S
Hung, Strung and.Potted.
New York, N .Y. 1971.
7.
Bolles, E l l a S. and Dorothy S. Towle. Secrets of New England
Cooking. M. Barrows and Co., Inc., N e w York, N.Y.
1947.
8.
Briggs, Rose T
9.
Carson, Jane. Colonial Virginia Cookery. The University Press of
Virginia. C h a r l o t t e s v i l l e , Virginia. 1968.
.
. and Dorothy B.
10. Carter, Susannah.
London, 1772.
11. Corey, Lewis.
1950
12.
.
National
Clarkson N . P o t t e r , Inc
The Plimoth Colony Cook Book.
The Frugal Housewife o r Complete Womn Cook.
Meat and h n .
Franklin, Benjamin.
bbyer
Harper and Brothers
The Viking Press, New York, N . Y . ,
A r t of Eating.
Poor Richard f o r 1742.
35
13.
Hammond, Elizabeth. Modern Domestic Cookery and Useful Receipt
Book Adapted f o r Families i n t h e MiddlinR and Genteel Ranks of
L i f e . London.
14.
b z l i t t , W . Carew.
1902.
15.
Kauffman, Henry J. "he American F i r e p l a c e .
New York, N.Y.
1972.
-
Old Cookery Books and Ancient Cuisine.
London,
Tholrras Nelson, Inc.,
16. K e t t i l b y , Mary.
A Collection of Receipts i n Cookery, Physick and
Surgery. (For t h e Use of a l l Good Wives, Tender Mothers and
London, 1724.
Careful Nurses)
17.
Kimball, Yeffe and Jean Anderson. The A r t of American Indian
Cookerx. Duubleday and Co., Inc. Garden City, N . Y . 1965.
36
Larry Borchert: "hank you very much, Don, f o r your presentation.
Don, along with t h e r e s t of our speakers, w i l l be back f o r a discussion
period a t t h e end of t h i s session. Hopefully, y o u ' l l have some very
i n t e r e s t i n g questions f o r them.
I once introduced our next speaker w i t h . .:'this man needs no i n t r o duction. I give you Evan Binkerd." Bink is extremely mentally a l e r t
and he took t h e podium and promptly put me down by saying: "he r e a l l y
d i d n ' t mind that s h o r t introduction, b u t h i s m t h e r would have been
extremely upset w i t h it .'I I hope that I d o n ' t upset anyone today, Bink.
M r . Binkerd is Vice President and Director of Research of Armour
Food Company. He received h i s academic t r a i n i n g a t Iowa S t a t e University,
graduating in 1942. H e is extremely a c t i v e i n t h e I n s t i t u t e of Food
Technologists, being on t h e i r Executive Committee. He serves t h e American
Meat I n s t i t u t e as a meniber of t h e S c i e n t i f i c Advisory Committee.
Bink has a long-standing personal i n t e r e s t i n our n a t i v e American
h e r i t a g e . When we learned of t h i s i n t e r e s t , we asked him i f he wouldn't
make a presentation on Native American foods. But i n keeping with our
program policy of being very concise and comprehensive, he chose t o give
a very s p e c i f i c r e p o r t on Pemmican. So, with a g r e a t d e a l of pleasure,
w e present M r . Evan Binkerd t o t e l l us about Pemmican.
Evan Binkerd: Thank you, LELrry. I guess one of t h e things I might
have done t o get a l i t t l e b e t t e r i n t o costume, as Don did, would be t o
take off my shoes, because I ' m going t o talk a l i t t l e b i t about f u r
t r a p p e r s and Indians.
There's a l i t t l e b i t more t o t h e s t o r y about why I ' m here today,
and t a l k i n g about t h e s u b j e c t of Pemmican t h a n even b r r y understands.
We have in our company a n abiding i n t e r e s t in various types of meat and
food products, not t h e l e a s t of which is a category c a l l e d Intermediate
Moisture Foods. On one occasion, we were v i s i t e d by a man that many of
you may know a t t h e University of Minnesota, Ted Iabuza. I asked Ted
i f it were t r u e that t h e F i g Newton w a s one of t h e e a r l i e s t , if not t h e
e a r l i e s t , intermediate moisture foods that man produced, He quickly
responded by saying, "Oh, no, That i s n ' t t r u e . It w a s pemmican."
T h a t leads t o t h e i n t e r e s t t h a t I have i n pemmican because, a t t h a t
point, I a l s o knew that i n our f i l e s that we s t i l l maintain were records
of A r m o u r and Company's involvement of making commercial pemmican,
Going on t h a t , plus a l i t t l e b i t of t h e f a s c i n a t i n g h i s t o r y of t h e fur
t r a d e and t h e Indians and t h e r e s i d e n t s of t h e northwestern a r e a of t h a t
t i m e , s t r a n g e l y enough, that is not t o o far d i f f e r e n t timewise from w h a t
Don Kinsman w a s t a l k i n g about. L e t me give you a l i t t l e b i t of background
on t h e f i e l d of pemmican and update you today about i t s production.