Pergola Assembly Instructions
About our Pergolas
The wood that we use for our pergolas is cut, trimmed, treated and finished ready for you to
assemble straight away. The softwood is also tannalised and has a 10 year guarantee. The wood that
we use comes from sustainable sources and is approved by the Forest Stewardship Committee (FSC).
You have a choice of two different woods:
1) Hardwood
Air-dried oak is very long lasting and weathers to a natural classic appearance that compliments your
existing home and garden beautifully. This is a brilliant material to use where a strong architectural
look is required and will give you years of life and pleasure.
2) Softwood
All our softwood undergoes a pressure - treated, tannalising process allowing us to offer a 10 year
guarantee plus the option of two different colour finishes. Please bear in mind that if you do grow
climbing plants or vines to cover the pergola a lot of the wood will not be exposed during the spring
and summer months due to the foliage. The natural green finish is typical of what you will find in
your local garden centre and the deeper, darker brown finish looks particularly striking when paired
with newer built properties. The softwood can be specified in either ‘rough sawn’ or ‘sawn &
chamfered’ depending on the look you want to achieve.
3) Wood sizes
a) Posts – these come in 4”x 4” x 8’ (4 inch by 4 inch by 8 foot) sections. The 4” width giving
maximum structural support whilst not being too unwieldy and also allowing you a
maximum of 8ft headroom which is ample for most people’s requirements. They have been
designed to withstand most of the harsher elements of our British weather and are strong
enough to carry a full coverage of climbing plants, snow and ice. One end of these posts will
be ‘notched’ to allow the fitting of the main beam.
b) Cross Rafters – supplied in 5” x 1.5” x 9’ (5 inch by 1.5 inch by 9 foot) sections. The 5” depth
to these rafters prevents sagging and again gives support not only to the structure but the
climbing plants as well. Please be aware that although the length of these rafters is 9ft, the
actual depth of your pergola will only be 8ft. This is because we finish one end of the rafter
with a decorative design that overhangs the main outer support beam giving a typical
pergola feature that completes the picture. The cross rafters should be spaced at 27 inch
intervals ensuring sufficient support for climbing plants to cover the roof of your pergola.
c) Ledger Board – this is the main inner support beam that is attached to the wall and, from
which, you fix the unfinished end of the rafters to by using the hanging joists. Again, these
are supplied in 5” x 1.5” x 9’ (5 inch by 1.5 inch by 9 foot) sections. If you order our basic 9ft
x 9ft module, the single ledger board will have decorated ends to match the ones on the
cross rafters. When ordering our 9ft x 16ft module only one end of each ledger board will
have a decorated end allowing the 2 unfinished ends to butt up to each other giving a
seemingly continuous line. The 9ft x 23ft module will obviously have 2 x 9ft ledger boards
(decorated as above) and the shorter central one will have no decorated ends, again
allowing you to butt these against each other for the same continuous look.
d) Main Outer Support Beam – exactly the same dimensions as the Ledger Board and ties
together the posts and cross rafters completing the structure. Depending on the module
required the Main Beam follows exactly the same principle as the Ledger Board in terms of
decorative ends and quantity.
e) Strengthening Support Struts – cut at a 45 degree angle at either end and measuring 5” x
1.5” x 18” max (5 inch by 1.5 inch by 18 inch) these braces when screwed to the post and
main outer beam finish off the pergola by giving it the necessary rigidity.
Part Descriptions:
1) Posts
a) 8 foot
b) 4 inch x 4 inch
c) Notched and pre-drilled for the main fixing coach bolts
2) Rafters
a) 9 foot
b) 5 inch x 1.5 inch
c) One decorated end
3) Ledger Board
a) 9 foot
b) 5 inch x 1.5 inch
c) Depending on size of module ordered, the ledger boards will either have both ends decorated for the 9ft x 9ft module. One end decorated for the 9ft x 16ft module and an extra ‘blank’ ledger acting as the middle extension for the 9ft x 23ft module.
4) Main Beam
a) 9 foot
b) 5 inch x 1.5 inch
c) Pre-drilled for the corner posts to accept the main fixing coach bolts
d) Decorative ends and extra ‘blank’ extension beams follow exactly the same principle as
for the Ledger Board above.
5) Strengthening Struts
a) 18 inch length
b) 5 inch x 1.5 inch
c) Both ends cut at 45 degree angle and pre-drilled
6) Hanging joists
a) To fit Rectangular wood – 5 inch x 1.5 inch
b) 5 rafters per 9 foot section = 5 hanging joists
7) Post Fixings
a) Spiked – for use straight to earth
b) Bolted – for use on patio/paving
c) ‘Concrete–In’ – for use with unfavourable soil conditions
8) Fixings
a) Coach Bolts/Nuts – 1 set per corner post
b) Screws (masonry and wood) plus wall plugs
c) Steel angle braces – to attach rafters to main beam
d) Joist hangers – to attach to the Ledger Board providing support for the rafters
e) Special 3-Way fixing bracket for extra posts – allows attachment of post and 2 main
beams together
f)
Spacers – to allow 10mm space between ledger board and wall
How to build and assemble your Pergola
There are 4 different options to choose from when ordering your Pergola. Our basic 9ft x 9ft
standard ‘building block’ system is designed to be extendable in a simple and easy way, proving that
you do not need to be a construction engineer to install one!
The following sizes are available:
1) Option 1: Standard - 9ft x 9ft
(max outside dimensions)
2) Option 2: Standard - 9ft x 18ft
“
“
3) Option 3: Standard - 9ft x 27ft
“
“
All our pergolas have a standard width of 9ft but with the option of 9ft incremental increases in
length. We decided to keep to the 9ft width as our pergolas are designed as a ‘lean-to’ system and
this width allows a quick and easy installation in most locations giving enough room in which to
entertain, live in and customize to your own specification whilst keeping the costs down. To
assemble any of the longer pergolas simply repeat the assembly instructions for each of the modular
9ft x 9ft ‘building blocks’ – it couldn’t be easier!
4) Option 4: Customise the length to your own requirements
If you require a different length of pergola from the ones detailed above the easiest thing to do is to
purchase extra individual parts from our ‘Accessories’ page and add to either Option 1, 2 or 3 above
and adjust the length yourself by cutting down the ledger board and main beam and adding the
number of rafters required. Care must be taken to ensure that the gap between the posts is no more
than the 84.5 inches that we specify. This is our maximum recommended span width for this size of
wood and type of usage.
Most of the measurements detailed in these assembly drawings are in old fashioned ‘feet & inches’
– however, to keep up to speed, please find below a simple metric conversion table allowing you to
work in whichever system you find easier:
To Convert:
Inches
Millimetres
Inches
Into:
Multiply By:
Millimetres
25.4
Inches
0.03937
Centimetres
2.54
Centimetres
Inches
0.3937
Feet
Metres
0.3048
Metres
Feet
3.281
Please see below a ‘Parts Explosion’ drawing that shows all the constituent items that are needed in
order to successfully build your pergola together with a brief description of each part. Once you
have chosen the length of pergola you require, just tick the option you require on our ordering page
and leave the rest to us. All of the necessary components will be automatically calculated and added
to your order – making it easier for you to concentrate on just the assembly.
Fig 1
Parts explosion drawing and description
Parts List:
Module 1 – 9ft x 9ft
1 x Ledger board (decorated both ends)
1 x main beam (decorated both ends)
2 x Posts
4 x Rafters
4 x Strengthening struts
7 x Wall plugs
7 x Masonry screws
35 x Washer spacers
4 x Mini joist hangers
64 x Wood screws
8 x Metal angle brackets
2 x Coach bolts
2 x coach nuts
2 x Metal Fixing posts supports (choice of 3 different options – if using the ‘bolt-down’ system bolts
will be provided)
Module 2 – 9ft x 16ft
2 x Ledger boards (decorated one end only)
2 x Main beams (decorated one end only)
3 x Posts
7 x Rafters
7 x Strengthening struts
14 x wall plugs
14 x masonry screws
70 x Washer spacers
7 x Mini joist hangers
102 x Wood screws
14 x Metal angle braces
3 x Coach bolts
3 x Coach nuts
1 x ‘T’ connector
3 x Metal Fixing post supports (choice of 3 different options – if using the ‘bolt-down’ system bolts
will be provided
Module 3 – 9ft x 23ft
3 x Ledger boards (2 x decorated end & 1 x straight ended middle extension board)
3 x main beams (2 x decorated end & 1 x straight ended middle extension beam)
4 x Posts
10 x Rafters
10 x Strengthening struts
20 x Wall plugs
20 x masonry screws
100 x washer spacers
10 x Mini joist hangers
160 x Wood screws
20 x Metal angle brackets
4 x Coach bolts
4 x Coach nuts
2 x ‘T’ connector
4 x Metal Fixing post supports (choice of 3 different options – if using ‘bolt-down’ system bolts will
be provided)
Once you have received your delivery, please carefully check that all items have been included
against the packing list supplied and, once done, you’re ready to start to assemble your own pergola.
Please follow these simple steps as a guideline to ensure that the assembly of your pergola is as
trouble free as possible:
*NB – By using wood as the main material in the construction of a pergola, its very nature means
you may find that it expands or contracts slightly depending on conditions. For example, if you
experience difficulty in inserting a 4 inch x 4 inch post into the Fixing Post support - it may be
because the wood has expanded a little. If this is the case, just take some coarse sandpaper and sand
the bottom outside faces and edges that will be inserted into the support. Not too much though and
it’s worth checking about every 30 seconds of sanding as to whether it will fit snuggly into the metal
support. If not, continue to gently sand and check often!
Step 1
Measuring the Site in Preparation & Positioning of the Posts
Fig 1A
Once you have prepared and measured the site it is a good idea to stake out the area (Fig 1A) and
mark clearly where your posts will be situated as Figs 2 & 3 below demonstrate
Fig 2
Fig 3
Positioning of the Posts:
Using a tape measure or a piece of string, mark a spot exactly 100 inches from the wall making sure
that you use a builders square to ensure that the line is at right angles (90 degrees) to the wall. This
will be the position for the first Fixing Post. Once you have found the spot, either bang into the
ground the ‘spiked’ Fixing Post or mark the spot carefully if you need to dig a hole for the ‘concretein’ Fixing Post. If you are using the ‘bolt-down’ Fixing Post onto a patio or hard surface, simply put a
cross using some chalk, marking the centre of where the Fixing Post will be positioned.
To mark the position of the second Fixing Post take your piece of string or tape and mark out 87.5
inches from the centre of the first Fixing Post, parallel to the wall, again using your builders square to
ensure that the two Fixing Posts are aligned. To make sure that the footprint is completely straight
use the builders square to check that all corners are 90 degrees.
Depending upon the length of the pergola, and where it will be positioned on the wall of your house,
you will see from Fig 4 below how the ‘footprint’ of the pergola will look.
Fig 4
Step 2
Securing the posts to the ground. There are 3 different methods for you to choose from:
a) Original Spiked Fixing Posts – pic 1 + description
b) Bolt-Down Fixing Posts – pic 2 + description
c) Concrete-In Fixing Posts – pic 3 + description
We have chosen these methods of securing as the Fixing Posts are easy to install and keep the
bottom of the posts out of the ground, reducing the risk of rotting.
The method that you choose depends on your local conditions and where your pergola is to be sited.
If you have good, solid earth - choose the first option. If you want your pergola positioned over a
patio, concrete or on existing decking – choose the second option as the Fixing Post is secured either
by using a hammer drill and masonry bit to drill through the hard surface and then bolted down
using the special masonry bolts or, if fixing to an existing wooden deck, by using the traditional wood
screws. In both cases the bolts and screws will be provided. If your soil is of a poor constituency you
should go for the final option. If this is the case, you will need to dig a hole and buy a bag of quick
setting concrete (sourced from any builder’s merchant or garden centre) and follow the simple
instructions for a safe and secure fix.
When ordering, you will be prompted as to which method you require in order to secure the posts to
the ground. See Figs 5, 6 & 7 below for information on how to use the 3 different methods:
Fig 5
Post supports – Installation instructions:
1) Original – ‘Spiked’ version
Fig 6
Fig 7
These have been designed to allow you to install your posts securely in the ground in no time and
without the hassle of digging holes or buying concrete. Simply, place the tip of the spike over the
point in the ground where you want your post position to be and using the ‘Driving-In’ tool take your
sledgehammer and gently drive the support into the ground, making sure to check the vertical
alignment with a spirit level as you do so, until the box section of the support is level with the
ground.
2) ‘Bolt – Down’ Support
As this version of post support is flush fitting, it is ideally used for situations where your pergola is to
be sited on an existing patio, concrete or decking. Using the base as a template, mark the holes on
the surface, drill and then secure using the bolts provided ensuring that they are tightly screwed in.
3) ‘Concrete – In’ Support
These supports are best used in areas where the ground conditions prevent the use of the original
‘Spiked’ post support. So, for example, if your ground is particularly stony or prone to very wet earth
it is best to opt for this version. You will need to visit your local builder’s merchant or garden centre
and purchase a bag of quick drying concrete. Once done, dig out a hole (where you want to place the
post) approximately 18 ins x 18 ins x 18ins in size, and place enough of the prepared quick drying
concrete to fill the hole. Next, insert your post support into the centre of the hole and check that it is
vertical aligned. Once, the concrete has set (usually an hour but check the manufacturer’s
instructions) the post can be placed in the support.
All 3 of the above versions above can be painted to match the finish of the timber you have specified
and will ensure years of maintenance free, secure anchorage. If, for whatever reason, you have
cause to change the timber post, you can simply loosen the holding bolts, take it out and replace
with another without having to re-dig, drill or concrete in any new post supports.
To ensure that the posts are completely straight, it is a good idea to use a ‘post level’ as it is vital to
the whole structure that the posts are in line and vertical. Please make sure that the ‘notched’ side
of the post faces inwards as you will be attaching the main beam to this side in Step 4
Step 3
Attaching the Ledger Board to the House
Fig 8
If you attach anything to the brick or stone of an outside wall water can become trapped and soak
into the surface which can lead to a brown stain running down the wall where the attachment has
been fixed. If this occurs, the stain is particularly difficult to remove and looks a bit of an eyesore.
Therefore, it is important to follow the method below to prevent this staining from happening. By
using the spacers provided, it creates a gap between the Ledger Board and the wall itself which
allows air to flow and helps the surfaces to fully dry out after rainy days.
Fig 9
Fig 9 shows the picture of the Ledger board and the suggested fixing holes and spacings that you
should pre-drill. We recommend using a zig-zag pattern with an approximate 18 inch gap between
fixings. This will provide a firm footing and will be more than enough to maintain the position and
shape of the Ledger Board and prevent it warping over time. The Ledger Board fixings also offer a
secure base for the rafter beams and are strong enough to carry the weight of any climbing plants
that are grown up the structure.
Start by drilling the pilot holes, which helps prevent the wood from splitting, with a 2mm wood bit
followed by a 6mm drill bit to widen them for use with the outdoor screws and wall plugs provided.
Fig 10
Once you have prepared your Ledger board the next step is to mark the wall ready for drilling so that
the Ledger board can be attached. See Fig 10. You might find the task easier to ask for an extra pair
of hands to help secure it firmly against the wall. Offer the Ledger Board up to the wall (use a spirit
level here to ensure a completely horizontal fit) and taking a drill with a small pilot masonry bit, drill
through the ledger board holes and into the wall to a depth of half an inch or so. Continue to do this
with all of the holes that you have made in the Ledger Board. Once done, take the ledger board
down and deepen the holes in the wall by a further 2 inches using the same small 2mm pilot
masonry bit.
Next, widen the holes using an 8mm masonry drill and clean out any dust that has gathered there
and insert the wall plugs provided into the holes. If any of the plugs prove stubborn, take a small
hammer and gently tap them into place so that they end up flush with the face of the wall.
Fig 11
After you have drilled the holes in the wall, push the screws through the ledger board and spacers
(see Fig 11) lining them up with the plugs in the wall and screw them in tight ensuring a firm
attachment. If you have ordered a longer pergola than the standard unit, simply ‘butt up’ another
rafter (or plain ended rafter if longer than 18ft) which will act as the second ledger board, against
the one already screwed into the wall and repeat the above process in Step 3.
Step 4
Attaching the Main Beam(s) to the Posts
The next job to tackle is attaching the main beam to the posts. Line up the pre-drilled holes on the
posts and the main beams and thread the coach bolts and nuts provided through the holes and
tightening. For best results, push the coach bolt through leaving the head visible on the outside of
the post and the bulky nut on the inside (See Fig 12 & 13 below)
Fig 12
Fig 13
If you have ordered one of the longer pergolas, you will need to join together 2, or more, main
beams using the supplied 3–Way fixing plates as shown in Fig13A & Fig 13B below
Fig 13A
Fig13B
Attaching extra main beams to posts to increase the length of the pergola
Step 5
Attaching the Cross Rafters to:
a) The Ledger Board
Fig 14
Ledger Board with hanging joists fitted (new)
The first task is to attach the joist hangers to the Ledger board. See Fig 14. It is important that you
follow the spacing between the hangers as this will ensure that the final structure is aligned
perfectly.
Fit the rafters in the hanging joists and screw tight. Fig 15. Using both your spirit level and builder’s
square, make sure that each rafter is square in relation to the ledger board before final fixing. As you
have already attached the main beam, you can rest the other end of the rafter on top to give you
support whilst tightening the joist hanger fixings.
Fig15 – Joist hanger – side view
b) The Main Beam
Lay the rafter(s) on top of the main beam, ensuring that they are at right angles to the wall and fix to
the main beam using the right-angle brackets and screws provided. This keeps the metalwork on the
top side of the beam and out of plain sight.
Fig16
Fig17
Fig18
Step 6
Attaching strengthening Struts to Main Beam & Posts
These are provided not only for the strengthening of the whole structure but they also look good
and help bring the whole project to an attractive conclusion. Please see Figs 19 & 20 below for fixing
instructions of the strengthening strut from the main beam to the post (Fig19) and from the outside
rafter to the post (Fig20)
Fig19
Fig20
If you have specified a longer pergola, we have provided another 3 struts (per extra post) for
attaching to the rafter, main beam and post for added strength and continuity. See Fig23
Fig 23
Attaching Strengthening Struts for extra posts
Step 7 (optional)
If you have chosen Option 4 and want a ‘customised’ length designed to your own requirements,
you will have to cut down a Ledger board and Main Beam to fit. In case of problems or if you have
made a mistake, please find below Fig 24 which shows the dimensions required for you to cut and
prepare your own decorated end to match the others.
Fig 24
One final job left and that is to revisit all of the screws that you have put in to check that they are all
tight. Whilst working on a project like this, some of the screws may not have been tightened as fully
as possible and may have worked a little loose with all the movement generated by assembling the
structure.
That’s it! Your Pergola is now up and ready for you to enjoy and ‘accessorise’ as you see fit.
You will find a selection, on our ‘Accessories’ page, of top quality products that will not only
complement your pergola but bring it to life as well - allowing you to make the most of our warmer,
longer summers and increase the enjoyment of an active, outdoor lifestyle.
Fig25 (new)
Final drawing
&
Pic
Of completed pergola
Important – Safety Statement
Pergolas are decorative products and are not designed to be used as a structural system for carrying
‘live’ loads such as humans or animals. They are not designed to support a hanging swing or
hammock. These pergolas have been designed to tolerate their own weight, climbing plants, light
decorative adornments (such as lanterns or low weight outdoor lighting systems) and moderate
snow or ice conditions.
Safety
Building a substantial structure like a pergola is exciting and fulfilling and working outdoors with
masses of space and blue skies can create a rather pleasant atmosphere. However, it is important to
consider that while undertaking any such project, that you do not become too relaxed as a casual
attitude can be potentially dangerous – so, keep your mind on the job, ask for help where needed
and take a break every now and then!
Please find below some helpful hints to keep your work space accident free:
1) Take your time to do the work carefully and methodically. If you are running behind schedule do not feel under pressure to rush as this can lead to accidents and a disappointing end
result
2) Keep all electrical leads and connections from getting wet or damp. If it is damp or looks like
rain do not use any electrical equipment
3) Unplug or disable all equipment when not in use. If you are leaving the site for any time at
all, please remove the electrical equipment as these can attract attention particularly from
children.
4) Cover all unfilled holes and, if they are to be left for any length of time, cordon off the area
to keep people and animals out.
5) Ensure that all children and pets are kept well away from the site. They can be distracting
and therefore a danger to you and themselves.
6) When wood is required to be cut, please remember to use a waist high work bench or saw
horse. The wood must be firmly held in place by vice or clamp. This makes is not only easier
to cut cleanly and accurately but helps prevent possible accidents from occurring
7) Check that all your tools are in proper working order and are in good condition
8) Do not try and do everything yourself. The main beam and ledger board, in particular, are
heavy and awkwardly shaped to lift into position. It is much better to borrow another ‘set of
hands’ to help
9) Ensure that any ladders you use for the assembly are sturdy and safe for the job. Extension
ladders must be firmly set into the ground at their base and should be on an angle of about
60 degrees
10) Keep the site tidy at all times and do not leave any tools, leads etc lying around as, again,
these are potential hazards which could lead to accidents and injury
11) Purchase proper safety equipment and use it. Wear safety glasses all the time and ear protectors when using powered equipment.
Disclaimer:
Important:
Perfect Pergolas Ltd has produced this basic information guide on how to assemble and construct
your pergola. However, this information is provided for use on the understanding that Perfect
Pergolas Ltd is not liable for any loss or damage which is suffered or incurred (including but not
limited to indirect or consequential loss) for any personal injury or damage to property suffered or
sustained as a result of using the information contained in these guidelines. Perfect Pergolas Ltd
advises you to contact a qualified tradesperson, such as an electrician or plumber, where expert
services are required and to independently assess any safety precautions that will need to be
followed prior to using the information provided by this guide.