122 ™ April 2012 Where, when, and how to discover the best photography in America Published since 1989 Florida’s Panhandle Coast This exploration of the coastline of Florida’s Panhandle starts in Tallahassee, the capital of Florida and a city with convenient airport connections, a great choice of lodgings and other necessary services. The city of Tallahassee is surrounded by forest trails, lakes, fascinating geological formations and natural springs large enough to feed rivers. I started this trip along the Big Bend Coastline, the northwestern part of Florida where Florida’s Gulf Coast bends toward the west to meet Alabama. I explored and photographed state and national parks near Tallahassee before heading west to follow and photograph the 250mile coastline to Pensacola. Issue 122 - page 2 The coastline of Florida is much more interesting than the interior of this state. For this trip, I concentrated on the shoreline of the Gulf of Mexico. After picking up a rental car at the Tallahassee Airport, I drove twenty miles south to the Gulf Coast. Acidic rain in the groundwater has created porous openings in Florida’s limestone foundation that are collapsing due to the weight of upper layers of topsoil. These sinkholes create small ponds and dry holes that sometimes swallow homes without warning. Wet sinkholes are openings into the underground aquifer. Dry sinkholes are caused by the partial collapse of underground caverns. Many of these sinks, wet and dry, are in an area of the Apalachicola National Forest, seven miles south of Tallahassee on Route 319. Hammock Sink Leon Sinks Geological Area Seven miles south of Tallahassee on Highway 319, Leon Sinks Geological area offers a fascinating look at Florida’s slowly-dissolving underlying limestone bedrock that was formed ages ago by coral reefs and shell deposits. Unlike most of Florida, which is almost flat, Tallahassee is located on rolling hills a few miles south of Georgia. Rainwater, flowing from the higher elevations of northern Florida, soaks into underground aquifers and slowly flows south, dissolving limestone and creating underground caverns. A sign marks the entrance to Leon Sinks Geological area, where a fee is charged unless you have a National Park Pass. A short paved road leads to a large parking area with public restrooms next to the trailhead. Blue blazes painted on well-spaced trees will keep you on the Sinkhole Trail, roughly a three-mile loop. Free maps may be found in a box at the trailhead. It’s a five-minute walk to the loop trail where you turn right to follow the Sinkhole Trail which passes 15 marked sinkholes. The two largest sinkholes are impressive and worth the hike. The first is called Hammock Sink and has boardwalks and platforms that offer a choice of raised viewpoints for your tripod. The soft limestone walls of these sinks would quickly collapse if visitors were allowed to climb down to water’s edge. Issue 122 - page 3 The pools may be clear and blue or, after a rain, stained dark with tannin. I arrived early on a foggy morning and had no trouble with contrasty lighting. My 10-20 mm wide-angle lens provided the coverage to fill my viewfinder with the full width of Hammock Sink and the great depth of the narrower, much deeper, Big Dismal Sink. The sound of water dripping from openings in the limestone walls into the Big Dismal pool would make a nice soundtrack for a video of this location. Cascades seem to be falling from the near side of the sink, hidden filled with mature cypress and tupelo (gums) in a shallow swamp circled by a boardwalk. If you want to photograph cypress swamps, hike both the Gumswamp and Crossover Trails. Cypress swamp on the Crossover Trail Wakulla Springs Big Dismal Sink from view by an amazing jungle of foliage. The trail guide lists 75 different plants growing on these steep walls. In March, the dogwood was in bloom, to be followed by southern magnolia in April and May. There are more than 20 species of trees that grow in this area. Allow three hours for the entire loop or take the Crossover Trail and shorten your hike. There are some ups and downs along the trails. No steep or difficult hiking is required. Blue blazes mark the Sinkhole Trail, white blazes mark the Crossover Trail, and green blazes mark the Gumswamp Trail. The southern part of this loop trail is called the Gumswamp Trail. In the middle of the loop is the Crossover Trail that can shorten your hike back to the parking area. The Gumswamp Trail has no sinks or pools but has several low areas of cypress swamp. The Crossover Trail has one large sunken area Sixteen miles south of Tallahassee, just off Route 61, is the entrance to Wakulla Springs State Park, the site of one of the world’s largest and deepest natural springs. An entrance fee is charged at the gate. Drive to the far end of the park road and find a shady parking spot under a tree near the large white Mediterranean-style building, the Wakulla Springs Lodge. Built by a wealthy timber man in 1937, the lodge has 27 rooms furnished in southern style art deco using the finest materials available. Walk through the lobby and the dining room. You’ll want to stay overnight here while you explore and photograph this park. Wakulla Spring forms a large pool behind the Lodge. On the west side of the Lodge, white lines cross the paved road to mark the pedestrian crossing, leading to the trailhead for the Wakulla Springs Trail, a six mile trail each way. It is not a loop. A half-mile from the trailhead, the trail crosses a bridge over a stream that flows from a smaller spring and merges with the large Wakulla Spring to form the Wakulla River, at seven miles, one of the America’s shortest rivers from its source to the St. Marks River on its way to the Gulf. Pack insect repellent containing DEET that works on mosquitoes, chiggers, and ticks. Wear long pants and tuck your cuffs into your socks to avoid ticks. Stay in the middle of trails and avoid walking through deep grass where chiggers become active in late spring. Issue 122 - page 4 On the east side of the Lodge is a walkway to the River Cruise Tour Boat office. These 60- to 90-minute cruises leave frequently, from 9:40 am to 4:30 pm, 365 days a year, to slowly wind three miles downstream on a freshwater spring-fed river through a jungle Coots, small black birds with a white beak, were the most common bird on the river. Male wood ducks were the most colorful. The females looked similar but without the iridescent green and red markings of the male. Wood ducks have claws that can grip bark and tree branches. They nest in trees on small islands in the river. Gator on the Wakulla River The great blue heron is common along this river and has a raspy croak. The small white ibis has a long down-curved beak and long legs for wading. A few pink spoonbills were working the muddy riverbanks with their long bills, flattened at the end. They were hunted almost to extinction in the late 1800s for their plumage. A nocturnal bird, the yellow crowned night heron, was close to the boat and easy to photograph. We saw of ancient cypress trees. Photograph an amazing variety of birds, as well as scenes of a moss-draped jungle, as the Wakulla River twists and turns. The boat navigates narrow side channels on its return to the spring at the source of the river. Yellow crowned night heron Male wood duck many alligators in the water and one on the riverbank. It left the water to avoid the boat and was heading away from the camera. The river cruise was a nonstop scramble, from the left side to the right side of the boat, to photograph everything the guide pointed out. Schools of fish were visible in the shallow and clear water, alligators steered around the boat, and cormorants dove beneath it to catch fish that were startled by the boat’s approach. The guide pointed out that February is the best month to take this cruise when the spring water is warmer than the air temperature and all the alligators in the area arrive to gather in the deep pool above the source of the spring. Sign up for a morning cruise and sit on the right side of the boat. Then take an afternoon cruise with a seat on the left side to find and photograph the most wildlife. When the boats return to the dock, they circle around the large spring-fed pool. You can watch swimmers diving from a tall platform into the pool, not far from where the alligators lurk. River cruises also offer glass-bottom boat tours during late winter and early spring on days when the water is clean and clear. Mastodon bones can be seen in the depths of the spring. Manatees frequent the river. Issue 122 - page 5 St. Marks National Wildlife Refuge Twenty-seven miles south of Tallahassee and fifteen miles southeast of Wakulla Springs is the entrance to St. Marks National Wildlife Refuge. This refuge, established in 1931, covers 68,000 acres and protects a great variety of migratory birds, wildlife, and fifty species of mammals (including bobcats and black bears). A 44-mile segment of the Florida National Scenic Trail passes through the refuge and provides the only access to most of the refuge. There is a 6.8 mile paved road, Route 59, connecting the refuge’s visitor center to St. Marks Lighthouse, built in 1832, and still in use today. There are many miles of short, marked trails around the ponds along Route 59. birds, and looking down on cruising alligators. While still at your parked car, quietly extend your tripod legs and get your camera, lens, and exposure set. Then quietly move to the middle of the bridge before stepping to the edge and looking down. Sneak up quietly for a better chance of getting the shot. Near the end of the Lighthouse Road is a parking area at a saltwater boat ramp on a canal to the sea. On the North side is a smaller parking area at the Cedar Point Trailhead. This quarter-mile trail winds through a forest of cabbage palms and red cedars to a small sandy beach. I spotted dolphins in the canal and many herons wading the shallow ponds in the meadows to the west. When you enter the Refuge, go to the Visitor Center to pay the entry fee and ask your questions. Then check their list of recentlysighted wildlife reports. Two miles south of the entry gate, the road approaches ponds and bayous, and passes small pools where you will begin to see great numbers of birds, depending on the season–between November and March. Headquarters Pond St. Marks lighthouse From the raised observation platform on Headquarters Pond, I spotted dozens of alligators floating silently in the bright green coating of duckweed covering the surface. This three-leaved floating plant is the main food source for wintering ducks here. Many of the trails that start from the Lighthouse Road cross canals or ponds on bridges. These make perfect tripod locations for raised viewpoints across ponds, above wading shore The paved road ends at the St. Mark’s Lighthouse. At 82 feet tall, you can’t miss it. Park in the lot and walk around the south end of the building to follow a path to several viewpoints on the hidden, back side of the lighthouse where you can photograph the tower and the keeper’s quarters reflecting in a small pool. Cabbage palms (Florida’s official state tree) line the pool behind the lighthouse. St. Mark’s lamp, once fueled by whale oil, has protected mariners for over 181 years through hurricanes, pirate attacks and Civil War gunboat blockades. It was dismantled several times and moved back from eroding shorelines. It was rebuilt after being damaged by retreating Confederate armies trying to prevent its capture by Union forces. Issue 122 - page 6 Weathered pilings extending into the shallow bay are the remains of a pier that once led out the lighthouse keeper’s boathouse. Long before a road was built to the lighthouse, all supplies were brought in by boat. The remaining pilings are usually topped with birds. At low tide, exposed mudflats are filled with herons, egrets, and other shorebirds feasting on small crabs and fish. Starting from the far end of the parking lot, a wide trail follows the top of a levee, heads west along the edge of the bay and circles Lighthouse Pool, where alligators can be spotted sunning themselves along the shoreline. Free trail guides point out the great variety of vegetation along the Lighthouse Levee Trail. St. George Island This long, narrow barrier island is five miles off shore, to the southeast of Apalachicola Bay. Beaches on the gulf side of this island face a strong surf that washes many shells ashore. Drive to the State Park at the east end of the island, pay the entry fee and park at the end of the road. It’s a very isolated place where you can walk the beach with a macro lens while photographing arrangements of various types and colors of shells half-buried in the sand. This fine granite sand has washed down long-gone rivers for many ages from distant mountain ranges that once existed far to the north of Florida. It’s a twenty-minute drive from Tallahassee to these locations near the Gulf Coast. From the lighthouse, I drove north to U.S. Route 98 and turned west to discover more photo locations along the coastal route to Pensacola. Shells on St. George Beach Carrabelle BJ Henry in Carrabelle Following Route 98 along the coastline for fifty miles, the first town to the west that had a harbor worth some photography is Carrabelle where well-worn fishing boats are tied to crumbling piers. A motel stands above the harbor on the west end of town, and I found a few restaurants. Fifteen miles west of Carrabelle, at Eastpoint, is a large brown sign at a side road marked G1A that heads south across a five-mile long bridge to St. George Island. On the way back to the mainland, stop at the Cape St. George Lighthouse. Built in 1852, this lighthouse finally gave in to hurricanes and beach erosion and collapsed into the Gulf of Mexico in 2005. It has been rebuilt, using the original plans and all the original materials that could be found. The tower is open to the public with a long climb to the top. The west end of St. George Island is mostly developed with few beach access trails between all the cottages standing Cape St. George Lighthouse on tall stilts. If you are looking for lodgings and restaurants, cross back over the bridge, head west and cross another bridge to Apalachicola. Issue 122 - page 7 Apalachicola Along Commerce Street, Apalachicola Highway 98 crosses the bay and makes a sharp right turn down the main street of Apalachicola, a fascinating place to explore. Weathered ruins of old building are scattered among beautifully-restored examples of classic Florida coastal town architecture. Walk the three-block-long waterfront The working boat marina can be found one mile north of town, upriver at the end of Market Street. Twenty-four boats were in the harbor where I spent several hours wandering around looking for the best locations for my tripod. I walked to the far end of the harbor where some wrecked hulls had been hauled onto the beach. There were no luxury yachts or fiberglass pleasure boats there. between Water Street, Commerce Street, and Market Street where Highway 98 passes through the center of town. Morning fog, Apalachicola Harbor Working fishing boat harbor scenes are always improved by a dense fog. Exposures are more consistent no matter where you point your camera. Background distractions are lost in the mists. Three miles northeast, The next day started early when I awoke to see a dense fog over the bay. I grabbed my camera bag and headed for the riverside dock where a few shrimp boats were tied up. Old fishing boats make great subjects in foggy morning light. up the Apalachicola River at a boat launch ramp in a spot on the map called Bay City, I photographed more bayou scenes as the sun was breaking through morning fog. Harbor scene, Apalachicola Galleries, bookstores, and restaurants slowed me down. I still found so much to photograph that I stayed all day to explore the town and its side streets and then waited for a sunset over the bay. I found a room for the night at an Apalachicola riverside inn on Water Street with a great view over the water. Morning fog on the Apalachicola River at Bay City Issue 122 - page 8 St. Joseph Peninsula State Park Six miles west of Apalachicola, the highway splits. Bear left onto Route 30A, the coastal road, for another ten miles. Watch for a sign marking a left turn to the St. Joseph Peninsula State Park. Skip the side road to the Cape San Blas Lighthouse. It’s only a beacon on an old steel tower. From that point, it’s seven miles farther to the park entrance. At the end of the paved road are two campgrounds with 120 campsites. The main attraction here is a seven-mile-long boardwalk (the Wilderness Preserve Trail) that follows the high ground along the center of the narrow peninsula. Park in the picnic area parking lot to start your hike. The first Arrive here a few days after the first autumn cold front passes through North America to watch the huge annual southward migration of hawks from the United States and Canada to Mexico and South America. Hawks don’t like flying over water, so they follow this long peninsula on their way south. Walk only as far as you feel comfortable. Turn around when you can still enjoy the walk back to your car. One mile south of the entrance gate is a side road to the Maritime Hammock Trail. Allow 45 minutes for this 0.7 mile loop trail through an oak and palm forest that reaches several small sandy beaches. This hike is perfect for an overcast day. Arrive on a sunny day, shoot multiple bracketed exposures and try some HDR photo techniques to control your exposure range. Along the drive back down the peninsula, I stopped at several beach parking lots near boardwalks with stairs that climbed over the dunes to the beach. I found some interesting camera angles from the tops of these bridges over the dunes. The white granite sand dunes are so unstable that climbing them is difficult. The public is kept off and wooden boardwalks are provided to cross most sandy areas in this wilderness area. On the trail to the St. Joseph Peninsula Wilderness mile follows a sandy trail along the water’s edge on the bay side of the peninsula. Wildly twisted oaks and tall palms grow down to the edge of the bay. A twenty-minute walk will take you to the start of the boardwalk, an allday trek to the end of the Trail and back. The wide-open landscapes and seascapes along this trail are most suitable for sunny day photography. Overcast days provide flat and dull lighting with no contrast or snap. A few miles up the Trail, the peninsula becomes wider where higher dunes line the Gulf side and swamps, grassy meadows and small ponds fill the low spots between the dune ridges. These wetlands attract birds. Back on coast Route 98, it’s nine miles to the next town. In Port St. Joe, you can find restaurants and supplies. For an over night stop, keep heading west to Panama City. Except for the harbor area and the historic district, I found little to photograph around Panama City. It’s a good overnight stop. Panama City If you want to see the old historic downtown of Panama City, bear left off Highway 98 unto Business Route 98. In the city hall district, signs mark a few side streets that lead off the main road to some interesting historic sites surrounded by spreading oaks draped with Spanish moss. Business Route 98 continues west and crosses a bridge over Watson Bayou. Issue 122 - page 9 West of the bridge, you will pass a long line of southern plantation-style mansions along the arc of Beach Street facing St. Andrew Bay. Park on a side street and walk a few blocks with your camera. hike the nature trail that winds through four large loops on the western portion of the estate. When Business 98 turns north for five blocks and merges back into Highway 98, you will cross the Hathaway Bridge over the entrance to West Bay. Stay in the right lane and continue driving west for 35 miles on Highway 98. Watch for signs marking the turn north onto Route 395 to Eden Gardens State Park, one mile off the highway, where you will find some different scenes to photograph. On the beach at Seaside Seaside The reflecting pool Eden Gardens State Park Sitting in a ten-acre garden and surrounded by spreading oaks on the edge of a quiet bayou is a two-story mansion with white columns and wraparound porches. This home was built in 1897 by William Henry Wesley, a lumber baron. In the 1960s, a new owner rebuilt and decorated the home with family antiques and heirlooms, then developed the grounds as ornamental gardens. In 1968, the Maxon Family donated Eden Gardens to the state of Florida. The home sits next to a huge reflection pool and fountain and is surrounded by lawns bordered by azaleas, blooming in March. On the day I arrived, a wedding rehearsal was in progress and musicians were tuning up for the event. Banquet tables were being set at the water’s edge on Tuckers Bayou–an idyllic setting for a southern wedding. I set off to Leaving the estate, I drove back to Highway 98, then crossed the road I had been following and continued two miles south to the edge of the Gulf, then turned right onto Route 30A. One mile down the road, I drove into the town of Seaside, an odd version of a storybook beach community. All the traffic on Route 30A is routed down the main street of Seaside, the location used to film the 1998 Jim Cary movie called the Truman Show. It was a good place to stop for lunch and some explorations. I did find interesting beach scenes, colorful bicycle patterns, and lots of pastel architectural studies. In the village of Seaside Issue 122 - page 10 Grayton Beach State Park Just two miles west of Seaside is Grayton Beach State Park, my intended destination for this day. Like all of Florida’s state parks, there is an entry fee. A short drive leads out to the end of the road and the trailhead for the Dune and Forest Nature Trail. It starts The dark sky was a helpful addition to my photos of the lake. The forest part of the loop trail offered good examples of the struggle between the trees and the constantly-moving dunes. Allow an hour for this hike, especially if the weather suits your needs. Back in the parking lot is a shorter and easier trail that leads to the beach. On the Grayton Beach Nature Trail by winding through a tunnel of windblown oaks creating a roof of foliage over the trail. Small wind sculpted bushes are really mature trees beaten nearly to the ground. The trail continues along the edge of Western Lake and then passes some low openings in the dunes. Sand fences have been erected to keep hikers on the trail and off the fragile dunes. On the beach at Gulf Islands Gulf Islands National Seashore On the Grayton Beach Nature Trail These caught my eye because I have always been fascinated by the patterns created by sand fences. After a short wait, dark storm clouds moved north, the sun appeared, and long shadows were added to my compositions. It’s a ninety-minute drive, back on the highway, to the marked entrance to the Gulf Islands National Seashore Visitor Center, across the bay from Pensacola, Florida. Stop in and pick up a trail map and look at their postcard rack to get a feeling for what you will be photographing out there: sand, sea, dune grass, and the sky. Two short trails lead from the Visitor Center to the edge of Santa Rosa Sound, where I photographed late afternoon light backlighting the beach grass and small waves breaking on the sand. Along the highway two miles west is a wellmarked road, Route 399, that heads south over the Santa Rosa Sound. This long toll bridge connects the mainland to Santa Rosa Island. On the island, turn right at the traffic Issue 122 - page 11 light and head west. Pay the entry fee or show your National Park Pass at the gate and drive six miles farther to Gulf Islands National Seashore at the western tip of this island. bastions are stairs to the top where you will find a huge 15” (bore) cast iron cannon pointing toward the narrow opening from the Gulf into Pensacola Bay and the harbor that was protected for over a hundred years by Fort Pickens. Brick arches and very thick walls supported the weight of many cannons along the parapets. Thick exterior walls also protected the fort from enemy fire. The only time Fort Pickens was under fire was during the Civil War. There are many gun ports but no windows in the soldier’s quarters. Some daylight filters into most parts of the fort. A tripod will allow you to use a small aperture and low ISO for greatest sharpness when you are photographing repeating patterns of arches extending into the distance. At the western end of the island, you may see signs and ropes closing off some areas of the dunes and keeping the public out of wild bird nesting areas. If you park in a designated spot and cross the dunes on a boardwalk or trail through the sand to reach the water’s edge, you can hike as far as you want as long as you do not cross into a closed area. The rangers do not want visitors climbing the dunes. The western side of Fort Perkins During the earliest years of America’s history, military forts were necessary to protect this country’s harbors from foreign invaders. Fort Pickens was the largest of four forts built to protect Pensacola and its navy yards. The fort was begun in 1829, completed in 1834, and used until 1947. Santa Rosa Island is 48 miles long and much of it is lined with summer homes and high rise vacation condominiums. A ten-mile stretch of the center of the island, from the gulf to the sound, is part of the National Seashore. Park in any of the parking lots, stay off the dunes and you’ll find great beach photography in any direction. When you reach Navarre Beach, the road ends and all traffic crosses another long bridge to return to the mainland. Follow the signs to Fort Pickens, park in the lot and walk through the entrance at the Visitor Center. Pick up a free tour guide and map of Fort Pickens. To find the best photo locations, continue out through the Visitor Center and bear right to walk through the long western bastion to photograph a long row of ancient and weathered brick archways that supported massive cannon emplacements. In the middle of the western Halfway between Santa Rosa Island and the mainland Pensacola I stayed three days in Pensacola to explore the historic downtown district and the harbor, and then drove ten miles west of Pensacola to photograph beaches on long and narrow Perdido Key, another barrier island on the edge of the Gulf. The Florida/Alabama State boundary cuts through the middle of Perdido Key. I followed Route 292 far enough west to cross over the state line into Alabama. After taking a few more photos of the coastline, I drove back into Florida and followed the road to the eastern end of the key. More seascapes line both sides of this very narrow island. High-rise condominiums have been filling in the open spaces. I still found plenty of wild, untouched beaches stretching for miles with the four basic elements–sand, sea, sky, and beach grass. A bright and sunny morning added strong shadows to my compositions. Avoid the weekend crowds if possible. A bright and sunny day will provide the effect you want for your seascape photography. At Gulf Islands, I was lucky to find a sunlit beach and dark storm clouds to the north, over the city. You might discover some great images out there on an overcast, drizzly day. Favorite beach: the west end of Gulf Island National Seashore Favorite town and harbor: Apalachicola Best beachcombing for shells: St. George Island Most birds and wildlife: Wakulla Springs River Tour Most photogenic historic monument: Fort Pickens Best lighthouse: St. Marks National Wildlife Refuge Most alligators: St. Marks Headquarters Pond Have a great trip and send me an e-mail ! My life-long career in photography began at San Jose State University in 1957. After college, I enlisted in the U.S. Army Signal Corps, serving as a photographer and darkroom technician. In Germany, my skills and experience with equipment and lab work were developed and polished. I took the opportunity to photograph the beauty of nature in the Black Forest. Returning to California in 1965, I produced industrial and military training films for Raytheon Electronics and began showing my color nature prints. From 1969 through 1981, my photography was exhibited and sold in West Coast galleries. During the early 1980’s, I taught color darkroom workshops, then expanded to include field trips. Former customers, who had purchased my framed photographs, wanted to learn photography. My Pacific Image Photography Workshops offered adventures to the Pacific Coast, the Southwest deserts, national parks, Hawaii, New England, Canada, England, and the South Pacific. The workshops evolved into writing and sharing my adventures with others. Photograph America Newsletter provides information on where, when, and how to discover the best nature photography in North America. Photograph America Newsletter is published quarterly (four issues/year) by Robert Hitchman assisted by technical associate/wife, Katherine Post Office Box 86, Novato, CA 94948-0086 1-415-898-9677 www.photographamerica.com All contents of this newsletter copyright © 1989-2016 Robert Hitchman Please don’t make copies for your friends. This is a violation of Federal copyright laws. This newsletter survives on subscriptions.
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