CHAPTER 5: MAPPING THE WAY TO AN ECONOMIC FUTURE President Obama greets Kotzebue residents on September 2, 2015. Photo credit: Zach Stevenson. Iñuuniaḷiqput Iḷiḷugu Nunaŋŋuanun: Documenting Our Way of Life through Maps 530 CHAPTER 5: MAPPING THE WAY TO AN ECONOMIC FUTURE Introduction 532 Finding a Balance 534 A Mining History 535 Red Dog 536 Shipping 538 Oil and Gas 541 Tourism 541 Energy 541 Roads 542 Conclusion 543 References 544 Kotzebue windmills, 2011. Photo credit: Chris Lott, Wikipedia Commons. CHAPTER 5: MAPPING THE WAY TO AN ECONOMIC FUTURE Dancers welcome President Obama to Kotzebue. Photo credit: Zach Stevenson. Introduction As this atlas was going through its last stages of review and design, in the summer of 2015, borough officials in Kotzebue got word that President Barack Obama was planning a visit to the region. Village residents, many of whom serve as tribal and local government officials, soon found themselves in an unfamiliar place—on the national stage. In a speech given in the school gym in Kotzebue, the President talked about some of the complex issues affecting the people whose living traditions have been mapped in this atlas. Knowing they would have the President’s ear for a brief moment in time, Arctic leaders galvanized their message, and, in the process of doing so, articulated the region’s economic and cultural priorities. “Today, Alaska’s Native peoples seek security—food security, economic security, cultural security, energy security. A changing world and climate impacts all of these,” former Northwest Arctic Borough Mayor Reggie Joule said in opening remarks before international dignitaries at the GLACIER conference in Anchorage that preceded the President’s visit to the Arctic. “We have much to lose—the very essence of who we are as a people.” Looking back over the arc of the past 150 years, as reviewed in the Villages chapter, and looking at how people live today, as heard in villagers’ voices and seen in the many recent pictures and on the maps included in this volume, no one could doubt the resilience of the residents of the Northwest Arctic Borough. The numbers of people who live in every one of the seven villages we studied for this atlas continue to increase. Today, the Borough has a mixed subsistencewage economy. Cash is needed for housing, transportation, fuel, clothing, and food. Even though borough residents have some of the highest harvest of fish and game in the state, store-bought food is necessary to supplement what families bring in or receive through sharing. As many of the people interviewed for this project mentioned, it costs money to purchase and maintain boats, snow machines, sleds, guns and ammunition, fishing nets, and fuel. And, in this remote part of the world, none of these things comes cheap. Resource development has the potential to bring jobs to the Borough, a region with one of the highest costs of living and among the highest unemployment rates in Alaska. In July of 2014, the cost of fuel in borough communities was as high as $9.65 for a gallon of gasoline and $10.46 for heating fuel. At the time this atlas is being published, in early 2016, fuel prices have fallen quite a bit but are still double what people in the state’s urban centers pay. Vast acreage of the Borough, including preserves, monuments, and five national parks, as well as areas within the Selawik National Wildlife Refuge, are closed to most kinds of development. Nevertheless, myriad projects are in the works on eligible land in the Borough. People hold differing opinions about what to do and where to start. Everyone agrees that continuing the annual cycle of hunting, fishing, and gathering traditional foods is integral Iñuuniaḷiqput Iḷiḷugu Nunaŋŋuanun: Documenting Our Way of Life through Maps 532 CHAPTER 5: MAPPING THE WAY TO AN ECONOMIC FUTURE “We have much to lose—the very essence of who we are as a people.” Former Mayor Reggie Joule to the Iñupiaq way of life. People understand that, if these traditions are lost, it will matter little how much money they have in their pockets. But change is always coming, and borough planners understand the importance of building a regional economy that will sustain people in today’s world. A strong economy offers the promise of an improved quality of life. At the same time, discussions surrounding resource development lead to concerns about possible threats to the environment and the age-old traditions that depend on proper resource management. The Borough initiated this mapping project with the expectation that better information will lead to better decisions. Knowing what areas are important to people’s annual food harvesting cycle and what places on the land and water are most important to the animals, fish, birds, and plants that people hunt, fish, and gather will help planners reviewing development proposals avoid negative effects to these areas when possible. This chapter discusses existing and potential development projects being explored in and around the Borough. Mineral development, and roads and other infrastructure related to mineral development, play a prominent part in discussions about the Borough’s economic future. We report on the contribution the Red Dog Mine currently makes to the Borough’s and the broader region’s economy and go on to look at mining and other industries that hold potential to strengthen the Borough’s economy over the coming years. The information discussed in this chapter provides but a glimpse of where change is likely to happen. Research for this mapping project centered on documenting traditional knowledge, but, when studying the locations and migration patterns of certain species, researchers also drew on information that had been gathered with modern surveying and tracking technologies. In Northwest Arctic villages today, it is becoming increasingly common to encounter someone processing fish with an ulu in one hand and a smart phone in the other. In this rapidly changing world, we hope the findings reported in this atlas will set the stage for a collaborative process for charting a stable future that maximizes benefits—both traditional and new—for the people of the Borough. 533 The people of Alaska’s Northwest Arctic depend on a healthy environment that is rich with fish, plant, and animal resources to provide food for their physical and cultural well-being. Residents generally support development that improves the quality of life and does not interfere with hunting and gathering activities. Some proposed development, however, is a source of local controversy. On one hand, residents favor activities that will provide local jobs and strengthen the economy. On the other, there may be fierce opposition to a project if it is seen as threatening subsistence resources without providing lasting local benefits. In a 2011 survey by NANA Development Corporation, a substantial majority of respondents said they view mineral development as important for the economic health and wellbeing of NANA and supported new mineral development on NANA lands.1 As described in more detail below, the Red Dog Mine has provided substantial contributions to the local economy by providing jobs and payments to NANA and the Borough. As sea ice retreats, more of the Arctic Ocean is opening to ship traffic and, potentially, oil drilling such as that being conducted by Royal Dutch Shell in the Chukchi Sea off Northwest Alaska. That means economic opportunities for Alaska’s indigenous people, but only if certain conditions are met. “Our message is quite simple. Development of our resources must include food, culture, energy and economic security for Alaska’s first peoples,” Joule said. “Any development of oil in the outer continental shelf must include revenue sharing for our impacted communities.” Shalev, A. & Y. Rosen Arctic Newswire, 8/31/15, p.1. Iñuuniaḷiqput Iḷiḷugu Nunaŋŋuanun: Documenting Our Way of Life through Maps CHAPTER 5: MAPPING THE WAY TO AN ECONOMIC FUTURE Finding a Balance Some local residents believe mining has negatively impacted them. Kivalina residents have expressed concern over impacts to the Wulik River, their drinking water source, from discharges from the Red Dog Mine tailings pond.2 During research for this mapping project, numerous interviewees in Kivalina spoke of their belief that Red Dog Mine activities have led to decreased beluga and caribou harvests. They expressed concern that noise from activities at the port site and associated shipping had displaced beluga whales from the traditional hunting grounds. Residents reported concerns about contamination from dust along the Red Dog Mine road—concerns supported by outside studies, including one that found high concentrations of lead, cadmium, and zinc in plants along the road,3 leading to increased local fears that caribou are eating these poisoned plants. Between 2001 and 2005, the mine’s operator spent $16 million to reduce dust from the ore concentrate released along the Red Dog road, including fugitive dust control measures at the port and hard-surfacing four miles of the port haul road. Locals have also noticed the road affecting caribou migration4—another observation supported by recent research. For one year, a sample of 21 radio-collared caribou that came within a 30 mile radius of the road found that 18 individuals (86%) “either changed their direction of travel (17 caribou) or stopped migrating (one caribou).” Information collected since 1990 indicates the road was not equally disruptive in all years, and the reason for the variation remains unclear.5 Events in September of 2015 brought the mine, the state, and NANA together, when it appeared the Western Arctic Caribou Herd was coming down closer to Noatak and Kivalina than it had in several years. In an attempt to encourage migration over the Red Dog road, the NANA lands department’s subsistence committee worked with the mine to close the road the first part of the month, hoping the herd would show up. Even though NANA’s subsistence committee includes four people from Noatak and four from Kivalina, many local hunters who, coping with decreasing numbers of caribou over the past few years have taken to hunting from the road, were not happy about the initial two-week closure.6 The subsistence committee, following well-known traditional knowledge that if a herd’s leaders can pass through a corridor unobstructed the rest of the herd will follow, nevertheless urged the temporary road closure. After the road was re-opened in mid-September, the watch for approaching caribou continued, with hunters asked to keep their distance until the first 5,000-10,000 herd leaders had crossed and Red Dog remaining ready to close the road again at the first sight of the herd. The mine set up a storage facility to stockpile ore for up to a one-week-long closure. This effort, by which Red Dog, NANA, and state game managers have been working together on behalf of villagers’ long-term subsistence needs, reflects increasing interest in finding collaborative ways to reduce conflicts between resource development and subsistence in the region. John Gallahorn of Kotzebue points out ways the Red Dog Mine is “good for the people. It gives the region here jobs, money to buy things.” Gallahorn has noticed no negative environmental effects from the Red Dog operation. Barry Foster of Selawik also emphasized the need for local jobs, including those at the Red Dog Mine, in a July 26, 2014, interview7: You have to have a job. Around the region there’s hardly any jobs. Sometimes there’s work local, for two weeks, two months, that’s about it. Right now maybe less than 50% of the guys don’t have a job and don’t know how to go out there and get a job because they’re not educated and they never finished school. There is a lot of guys that want to go out there and hunt but gas is very expensive. Henry Jackson of Selawik summarized his experience at the Red Dog Mine in a July 27, 2014, interview: “It was good 15 years for me. Red Dog helped me out with my financial needs. At Red Dog I work two on and one week off. Red Dog was mostly my home those 15 years.” People’s reticence over industry isn’t limited to mining. Villagers often express exasperation with impacts from non-resident sport hunters and the commercial transporters that bring them to remote areas of the Borough (see pp. 155 -159). While locals respect traditional knowledge about the need to let lead caribou pass without injury, as this leaves a scent for later caribou to follow, outsiders do not understand that harvesting the lead caribou alters the migration of the caribou that follow, sometimes deflecting them from local hunting grounds. Related concerns include “What is important to the NWAB is being able to achieve balance based on the values that we have. And relying on and continuing to rely on the environment for all of the things that it provides for us and balancing that for us to be able to have economic opportunity.” Fred Smith, Assistant to the Mayor, NWAB, Kotzebue, April 4, 2014 Iñuuniaḷiqput Iḷiḷugu Nunaŋŋuanun: Documenting Our Way of Life through Maps 534 CHAPTER 5: MAPPING THE WAY TO AN ECONOMIC FUTURE the wanton waste of meat, improper disposal of trash associated with hunting, and the impacts of airplane noise on caribou. Oil and gas exploration activities in the Chukchi Sea have also sparked a lot of interest from local residents. While some people support the prospect of economic benefits to the region, others are concerned about impacts to their food security. Although the oil and gas leases are located a couple of hundred miles north of the Borough, marine mammal populations used by local hunters migrate through the areas, and a large oil spill would have far-reaching effects. Alvin Iyatunguk Sr. of Deering voiced his concerns in September of 2013: I think it would be best if they don’t even bother trying to have offshore drilling in Alaska. That is a scary thing to think about. If [a spill] could happen in the Gulf of Mexico and they couldn’t even contain it . . . Imagine that happening somewhere out here. And our crude oil is a lot thicker. It’s heavier. Subsistence is a very important thing in our lives. If we didn’t have it, how would we survive? Residents’ fears of an oil spill from Shell’s offshore rigs were put to rest for the time being with the company’s announcement, in late-September 2015, that it was suspending exploratory drilling in the Chukchi for the foreseeable future. While fears of environmental harms may have been allayed, those who had hoped revenues from Shell’s activities would bolster the regional economy were disappointed.8 A proposed road connecting the mineral-rich Ambler Mining District to the Alaska road system also sparked debate in the region among those who recognize a need for economic development and those who fear impacts from the road to their way of life and, specifically, on the caribou they hunt. Ross Schaeffer Sr., a past mayor of the Northwest Arctic Borough, expressed his reservations to UAF researcher and videographer Sarah Betcher in the fall of 2013: This is the worst thing we could ever do. Within a few years every RV and every truck with a trailer will be bringing their boats up into the Kobuk River delta. We have to be very cautious as to what we approve. A road is going to destroy our way of life very quickly. As expressed by Fred Smith of Kotzebue in an April 2, 2014, interview, the goal of the Borough is to find a balance that allows economic development while protecting local values: “What is important to the NWAB is being able to achieve balance based on the values that we have. And relying on and continuing to rely on the environment for all of the things that it provides for us and balancing that for us to be able to have economic opportunity.” 535 According to the U.S. Bureau of Land Management, 11 tons of jade and 200 tons of asbestos were mined from the Jade Mountain area in 1945. A Mining History Historically, gold, jade, asbestos, and coal mines operated in the region, and today there are a number of small placer mining operations where gold is being dredged from sand and gravel deposits, usually in stream beds. As noted in the Deering history in the Villages chapter, the Seward Peninsula was a very active mining region in the 1900s. Some of today’s permanent settlements, including Deering and Kiana, were established to support early mining activities. A short description of a few of these historic mines follows. ► Jade Mountain: Nephrite jade and asbestos were mined from the Jade Creek and Jade Mountain area of the Upper Kobuk River area. NANA owns the area where the Jade is located, and it displays jade boulders outside of the Nullagģvik Hotel in Kotzebue. ► Utica Mine: The Utica Gold Mine, located south of Deering and connected by a gravel road, operated for 75 years beginning in 1903 using hydraulic and dredge mining techniques. A Brownfield assessment in 2005 revealed elevated levels of mercury, lead, cadmium, and arsenic in soils at the site.9 ► Independence Mine: This silver and lead mine was active between 1918 and 1922 on the Kugruk River, with additional exploration activities occurring since then. Placer Mines: The community of Kiana became a supply post for placer mines along the Squirrel River in 1909.10 Placer mines also occur in other areas of the Borough, including at Candle, which is located between Deering and Buckland. The Inmachuk River mine, a placer deposit located south of Deering, once produced 578,000 ounces of gold and 32,000 ounces of silver. Coal: Approximately 100,000 tons of coal was mined at Chicago Creek, located between Deering and Buckland, to supply placer mining operations near Candle.11 Iñuuniaḷiqput Iḷiḷugu Nunaŋŋuanun: Documenting Our Way of Life through Maps CHAPTER 5: MAPPING THE WAY TO AN ECONOMIC FUTURE Red Dog Mine. Photo credit: Sarah Betcher. Red Dog The Borough has always had a strong link to resource development as well as a commitment to protecting subsistence resources. It was formed in 1987 with the understanding that revenues from the Red Dog Mine would help fund its work to develop programs to assist villages and provide critical public services. Although the Borough receives financing from a number of different sources, income from Payment in Lieu of Tax (PILT) agreements with the Red Dog Mine operator provides significant funding for borough operations. PILT payments to the Borough have incrementally increased from $1 million in 1987 to $8.8 million in 2015. The Red Dog, the only large-scale mine currently operating in the Borough, is the largest zinc mine in the world in terms of reserves and annual production.12 It also produces lead and silver. Located 90 miles north of Kotzebue, a 52-mile road links the open-pit mine to a port on the shore of the Chukchi Sea where ore concentrate is stored during most of the year until it is shipped south during the summer months. The concentrate is shipped to China, Europe, Australia, Japan, Korea, and to a Teck smelter in Trail, British Columbia. By 2010, investments totaled $550 million for the mine with an additional $265 million spent by the Alaska Industrial Development and Export Authority (AIDEA) for the road and port (McDowell Group 2012).13 Teck Alaska, Inc. (Teck) (formerly TeckCominco) operates the mine under an agreement with NANA Regional Corporation (NANA), the regional Native corporation that owns the land. NANA receives royalties from the mine, and its subsidiaries provide services to the mine operator. As of 2013, NANA had received more than $1 billion in payments, $603 million of which was distributed to other Native corporations as required by the Alaska Native Claims Settlement Act (NANA 2014). In 2010, Teck paid NANA $146 million in royalties.14 According to Northwest Arctic Borough accountants, the mine provided 550 direct jobs in 2011, with a payroll of $55 million. A 2012 McDowell Group study found that, in 2010, 56% of the year-round jobs at the Red Dog mine were filled by NANA shareholders working for Teck and two NANA subsidiaries--NANA Lynden Logistics and NMS. According to NANA’s website, of the mine’s Alaska resident workers in 2010, not including contractors, 169 lived in the Anchorage area and 113 lived within the 11 borough communities. Teck expanded mine operations in 2010 to develop the adjacent Aqqaluk deposit, which is expected to extend operations until at least 2031. The Red Dog is the largest zinc mine in the world in terms of reserves and annual production. It also produces lead and silver. Iñuuniaḷiqput Iḷiḷugu Nunaŋŋuanun: Documenting Our Way of Life through Maps 536 CHAPTER 5: MAPPING THE WAY TO AN ECONOMIC FUTURE FIGURE 5.1. LOCATION OF MAJOR ACTIVITIES PERMITTED BY THE NORTHWEST ARCTIC BOROUGH 2006 - 2013 Current and Future Prospects The Northwest Arctic Borough today contains considerable amounts of undeveloped mineral resources, including zinc, lead, silver, gold, coal, jade, and copper. While these resources exist, difficult challenges must be overcome before mines become commercially viable. The price of minerals must be high enough to justify the considerable costs of developing a mine in a remote area. In addition to transportation logistics, agreements with landowners must be secured before a mine can be developed. In some areas of the Borough, such as on lands managed by the National Park Service, mining is prohibited. The remainder of this section lists areas of the Borough for which there has been recent interest in resource development. Ambler Mining District: The mineral-rich Ambler mining district, located in the Upper Kobuk River watershed, includes deposits of copper, zinc, lead, silver, and gold. The five key prospects in this district are named Arctic (Nova Copper), Sun (Andover Ventures), Bornite (NANA), and Smucker (Tech Cominco).15 According to AIDEA, feasibility 537 studies indicate that an overland transportation system would be necessary in order to develop these prospects.16 Lik Deposit: Zazu Metals Corporation (Zazu) is evaluating the feasibility of developing the Lik Deposit, a site located about 11 miles northwest of the Red Dog Mine that includes zinc, lead and silver resources.17 The deposit holds approximately 18.74 million tons of recoverable ore, 8% zinc, 2.5% lead and 53 grams/ton silver.18 A preliminary economic analysis found that the deposit is potentially economically viable.19 A feasibility study for the construction of a road connecting the Lik Deposit to the DeLong Mountain Transportation System (i.e., Red Dog road) found that it would cost $89 million in 2019 dollars to construct the road and provide additional fuel storage.20 Other Potential Areas of Mineral Development: Coal deposits in the Borough include the Chicago Creek Field near Candle (a 35-ft.-long seam of lower grade lignite coal), the West Kobuk Field (thin seams of subbituminous coal) near Kiana, several other deposits in the Upper Kobuk River area and two deposits discovered when drilling oil wells on the shore of Kotzebue Sound.21 Two areas of gold, silver, zinc, and lead deposits are located near Deering Iñuuniaḷiqput Iḷiḷugu Nunaŋŋuanun: Documenting Our Way of Life through Maps CHAPTER 5: MAPPING THE WAY TO AN ECONOMIC FUTURE and Candle. The Kuguruk, a prospect formerly operated as the Independence Mine, contains silver, lead and zinc. Recent exploration has occurred since 2010. The Inmachuk prospect has produced silver and gold in the past, and some exploration has occurred in recent history for this gold and silver placer deposit.22 In addition, rare earth elements are believed to be located to the east of Buckland.23 Permitting Activity: This project’s staff identified areas of current development through a literature search and an analysis of permits issued by the Borough over the last eight years. The literature search involved a review of borough, state, and federal documents and websites. A list of websites that provide information about exploration and development activities in the Borough is provided at Appendix I. Most permits issued for borough developments between 2006 and 2013 were related to mining. Of the 75 permits issued by the Planning Department during that period, 67% were for mining exploration or development and 25% were for sand and gravel extraction. Figure 5.1 shows where these permit activities are located. Shipping Much of the discussion about the retreating Arctic sea ice relates to potential impacts to habitat and increased erosion, but another important result from sea ice loss is the increase in shipping. Shippers may choose to use the Northern Sea Route over the Russian Arctic or the Northwest Passage through Canadian waters to the Atlantic Ocean. Both routes involve passage through the narrow waters of the Bering Strait. Shippers also use portions of these routes to supply communities and industrial operations with fuel and goods. Ships and barges supply oil and gas activities located in offshore waters and on the North Slope, and the Red Dog Mine receives supplies and exports concentrate through marine waters. News reports document a growing interest in using Arctic waters to transport goods from Pacific Ocean ports to destinations along the Atlantic Ocean. One study indicated that marine traffic in the Canadian Arctic has increased significantly from 1990-2012.24 Between 2012 and 2014, shippers receiving permission to transit Arctic waters in Russia increased four-fold.25 For 2013, 71 vessels completed transit over the entire Northern Sea Route shipping 1.35 million tons of cargo, with the bulk of the products being diesel, fuel oil and naphtha.26 Only 41 vessels completed the entire route. Also during 2013, 18 vessels transited the Northwest Passage, including the first large freighter, which was laden with coking coal.27 In 2014, however, only 31 ships transited the entire Northern Sea Route while an additional 22 traveled part of the route.28 In U.S. waters of the Chukchi Sea—the region of the Arctic Ocean bordering the Borough—shipping increases have so far been less dramatic.29 Information from the Marine Exchange of Alaska indicated that between 2011 and 2013, the total number of ships increased from 179 to 207 (a 15.6% increase). Of those, tanker traffic increased more rapidly, from 16 to 24. (See Figs. 5.2-5.4.) Oil spills, ship strikes on marine mammals, and disruption of migration patterns from noise constitute some of the concerns associated with increased shipping.30 While the recent increase in the transport of petroleum products through Arctic routes raises the risk of an oil spill, an accident involving any ship could result in the release of oil or fuel. Photo credit: NOAA. Iñuuniaḷiqput Iḷiḷugu Nunaŋŋuanun: Documenting Our Way of Life through Maps 538 Job ID: Job name: Area: CHAPTER 5: MAPPING THE WAY TO AN ECONOMIC FUTURE Start: End: 10307 Historical track - (Beaufort Sea and Bering Straits) 1/6-2011 - 30/11-2011 Beaufort Sea and Bering Straits 01 Jun 2011 00:00 UTC 30 Nov 2011 23:59 UTC FIGURE 5.2. HISTORICAL TRACK - (BEAUFORT SEA AND BERING STRAITS) 6/1/2011 - 11/30/2011 Historical Source: Marine Track Exchange of Alaska Job ID: 10305 Job name: Historical track - (Beaufort Sea and Bering Straits) 1/6-2012 - 30/11-2012 Area: Beaufort Sea and Bering Straits Generated: 25 Mar 2014 16:49 UTC - - Provided by Marine of Alaska UTC Page 1/8 Start: 01 Jun Exchange 2012 00:00 End: 30 Nov 2012 23:59 UTC FIGURE 5.3. HISTORICAL TRACK - (BEAUFORT SEA AND BERING STRAITS) 6/1/2012 - 11/30/2012 Source: Marine Exchange of Alaska 539 Generated: 31 Mar 2014 18:50 UTC - - Provided by Marine Exchange of Alaska Iñuuniaḷiqput Iḷiḷugu Nunaŋŋuanun: Documenting Our Way of Life through Maps Page 1/7 Job ID: Job name: Area: Start: End: 10306 Historical track - (Beaufort Sea and Bering Straits) 1/6-2013 - 30/11-2013 Beaufort Sea and Bering Straits CHAPTER 5: MAPPING THE WAY TO AN ECONOMIC FUTURE 01 Jun 2013 00:00 UTC 30 Nov 2013 23:59 UTC FIGURE 5.4. HISTORICAL TRACK - (BEAUFORT SEA AND BERING STRAITS) 6/1/2013 - 11/30/2013 Source: Marine Exchange of Alaska Generated: 25 Mar 2014 18:53 UTC - - Provided by Marine Exchange of Alaska Page 1/10 TABLE 1. TANKER AND TOTAL TRAFFIC IN BERING STRAIT-BEAUFORT SEA 2011-13 YEAR TOTAL TANKERS 2011 179 16 2012 198 17 2013 207 24 Source: Marine Exchange of Alaska Iñuuniaḷiqput Iḷiḷugu Nunaŋŋuanun: Documenting Our Way of Life through Maps 540 CHAPTER 5: MAPPING THE WAY TO AN ECONOMIC FUTURE One of Royal Dutch Shell’s drilling rigs, the Pacific Pioneer, docked in Seattle in May 2015 before departing for the Chukchi Sea. In September of 2015, after the company’s summer exploratory drilling in the Chukchi yielded disappointing results, Shell canceled plans to explore its leases in the Chukchi in the foreseeable future. Oil and Gas Shell, ConocoPhillips, and Statoil hold oil and gas leases in federal OCS waters in the Chukchi Sea a couple of hundred miles north of the Borough. In late summer 2012, Shell drilled a top hole well at its Burger A drill site, but the well did not reach the area of hydrocarbon potential. In the summer of 2015, Royal Dutch Shell brought two rigs and several support vessels to do exploratory drilling in the Chukchi Sea, but, at the end of the season, the company announced it was suspending drilling operations in the area for the foreseeable future. Other companies with active offshore leases continue to plan to drill, though none has set a date certain. During the President’s visit, local government officials joined Alaska’s congressional delegation in continuing to lobby for a local share of federal royalties from Chukchi and Beaufort offshore wells whenever production gets underway in the region.31 NANA is seeking financing for natural gas exploration in the region.32 Although sedimentary rocks in the Selawik oil and gas basin show some promise for oil and gas, this area is considered to have a low potential for petroleum resources other than limited gas deposits.33 Tourism Currently, a limited amount of tourism occurs in the Borough. While, in the past, Alaska Airlines offered organized tours, today most visitors are independent travelers or workers who spend additional time in the area while on business. NANA offers tours based out of its Nullaġvik hotel in Kotzebue, and there are a number of small businesses that cater to tourism in the Borough, including some transporters, outfitters and guides. The village of Deering would like to develop ecotourism, possibly developing a 39-mile-long road to Inmachuk Springs.34 Comprehensive Economic Development Strategy,35 and a 1997 project by the State of Alaska outlined steps that could be taken to promote tourism.36 The project recommendations included establishment of a regional tourism council, development of a museum in Kiana, improvements to access conservation units, and construction of a road between Bornite and Kobuk. Energy A number of proposed developments may occur to reach the regional goal of being 50% reliant on locally available energy sources by 2050.37 Regional alternative energy sources include gas, coal, wind, wood (biomass), solar, hydro, and geothermal potential. Two power grid interties are proposed: Ambler-Shungnak and Kiana-NoorvikSelawik. Wind generation facilities are being developed in Buckland and Deering. In cooperation with NANA, the Alaska Village Electric Cooperative is studying the feasibility of constructing “run of the river”38 hydroelectric facilities to augment the diesel plants in Shungnak, Kobuk and Ambler.39 Four potential sites in the Kobuk River valley include Dahl Creek, Wesley Creek, Cosmo Creek, and Kogoluktuk River. Additional energy sources are being pursued, including geothermal potential in the Buckland and Upper Kobuk areas, a biomass project in the Upper Kobuk, solar projects, and wind generation projects in Noorvik, Selawik Noatak, and Kotzebue.40 During 2015, the Borough was implementing a sustainable development project to investigate tourism opportunities and whether there was support in the villages for tourism. As part of this project, the Borough sponsored a familiarity trip to promote tourism in the region. Attractions in the area include Native culture, national parks, wildlife viewing, hunting and fishing, rafting, and canoeing. The Borough included tourism as a component of its 2004 541 Photo credit: Northwest Arctic Borough. Iñuuniaḷiqput Iḷiḷugu Nunaŋŋuanun: Documenting Our Way of Life through Maps CHAPTER 5: MAPPING THE WAY TO AN ECONOMIC FUTURE Photo credit: Sarah Betcher. Roads While no roads connect the Borough to the outside, a number of roads exist within the Borough. With the exception of Selawik, each community has an internal road system with roads often connecting to airports, landfills and sewage lagoons. Unlike other communities, Selawik has a network of boardwalks and two bridges linking the community to its airport. A few communities have additional roads, such as the gravel road extending south from Deering to a historic mine site. Winter trails link communities to each other, and an ice road has been constructed that links Kotzebue to Kiana and Noorvik during most winters. Kotzebue has a road to a new, undeveloped subdivision as well as a road south to its wind generation facility. The lack of a developed surface transportation system provides an obstacle for some kinds of economic development in the Borough. A number of roads, however, are in the planning stages. Cape Blossom Road and Port: A new port at Cape Blossom south of Kotzebue has been discussed for several decades as a means to reduce the costs of the current system of lightering fuel and supplies to Kotzebue, the regional hub. The State of Alaska completed an environmental assessment for a 10.5-mile road to Cape Blossom in December 2013.41 As of May 2015, initial funding had been secured for the first part of the road, with an additional $10 million needed to complete it. Construction of a bulk fuel tank farm at the new port site has the potential to reduce fuel costs for the region. An estimated additional $70 million would be needed to construct a new port at this location. Kivalina Road: A proposed road linking Kivalina to a new school site was in the planning stages in early 2015. In response to erosion concerns, a new school is proposed to be located near Kisimigiuktuk Hill, approximately eight miles inland from the community. Since Kivalina is located on a narrow barrier island, the road would include a causeway across the lagoon connecting the community to the mainland. As of May 2015, it was not certain whether an environmental assessment or an environmental impact statement would be required. Noatak–Red Dog Road: A proposed 28-mile gravel road between Noatak and the Red Dog Mine road would link the community to the Red Dog Mine and the port site. This road would serve a number of purposes, including increased access to subsistence resources, access to the port for bulk fuel and supply deliveries, improved access to the mine for the local work force, and an alternate airport for the Red Dog Mine.42 Ambler Road: Through its Roads to Resources initiative, the State of Alaska began investigating the feasibility of a road connection to the Ambler Mining District in 2010.43 As of January 2016, work was progressing on an environmental impact statement for the road, which was previously put on hold due to budget shortfalls.44 Different routes are being considered, including connections to the Alaska road system and tidewater locations at the Red Dog Mine Port, Cape Blossom, and Norton Sound. The most feasible route appears to be an approximately 200-mile road connection to the Dalton Highway. Additional roads have been discussed for the Borough. Although never a formal proposal, a potential road from the Deadfall Syncline coal deposit near Point Lay to the Red Dog Mine Port has been discussed by the planning commissions of the North Slope and Northwest Arctic boroughs. Gravel Extraction: Reliable sources of gravel and rock are critical for new development projects as well as community needs, including building pads, airport improvements, and new roads. Sources of gravel, however, are limited. In addition to gravel sources adjacent to communities, gravel mines have been permitted on the Lower Noatak River and Nimiuk Point on the Baldwin Peninsula. Also a gravel source on Iggy Hill will be used for construction of the Cape Blossom road. Iñuuniaḷiqput Iḷiḷugu Nunaŋŋuanun: Documenting Our Way of Life through Maps 542 CHAPTER 5: MAPPING THE WAY TO AN ECONOMIC FUTURE Photo credit: Oceana. Conclusion Today, the Red Dog Mine, the largest development in the region, provides local jobs and payments to NANA and the Borough, and these payments are anticipated to continue for the life of the mine. The Borough is interested in diversifying its economy to establish stream-of-income activities and industries to sustain its functions into the future. Significant mineral deposits exist throughout the region, but the lack of access and mostly low mineral prices present obstacles to development. Construction of proposed roads to and within the region, as well as the Cape Blossom road and port, could encourage new economic opportunities. Tourism could provide a low-impact revenue stream if managed carefully, and oil industry support services and facilities may generate economic activity, in the future when exploratory drilling activity in the Chukchi Sea resumes. 543 Residents have mixed opinions about development, but, as participants in a modern cash economy, most people will support a project or industry that provides local jobs and benefits if it can be done without harming traditional food resources and cultural wealth associated with hunting, fishing, trapping, and gathering routines. Through this atlas, the Borough seeks to satisfy both subsistence and development needs by providing planners with a scientifically designed tool for making informed choices when it comes to effects of projects on essential traditional resources. Iñuuniaḷiqput Iḷiḷugu Nunaŋŋuanun: Documenting Our Way of Life through Maps CHAPTER 5: MAPPING THE WAY TO AN ECONOMIC FUTURE 1. 2. 3. NANA. 2014. Sustainable mineral development in Northwest Arctic – benefiting Alaska. Presentation to the House Resources Committee on January 28, 2014. Accessed 23 January 2015. http://www.legis.state.ak.us/ basis/get_ documents.asp?session=28&docid=14936&ei=cd8pU6yvIISF ogSbkYGQDQ&usg=AFQjCNFRhOr4eLfc-rOPYTk9PJ4xL Wqf7w&sig2=hbbyX8k4SMvgXiv4A7N7vg&bvm=bv.62922 401,d.cGU&cad=rja. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA). 2008. Kivalina Settlement Summary. The 2008 settlement agreement for a lawsuit by Kivalina resulted in a commitment by the operator to build a pipeline to saltwater for discharges from the tailings impoundment. The agreement includes penalties that would be applied if a pipeline was not completed, and it provides funding for installation and maintenance of reverse osmosis units for each residence, business, and public building in Kivalina. http://www.reddogalaska.com/. Accessed 27 January 2015. Braund, Stephen R. and Associates. 2005. Traditional knowledge and subsistence use study within the area of Cape Seppings and Rabbit Creek: Kotzebue, Kivalina and Noatak. Prepared for the Northwest Arctic Borough; see also Hasselbach, Linda, Ver Hoef, J., Ford, J., Neitlich, P., Crecelous, E., Berryman, S., Wolk, B., and Bohle, T. 2004. Spatial patterns of cadmium and lead deposition on and adjacent to National Park Service lands near Red Dog Mine, Alaska: NPS final report. National Park Service. Resource Report, MPS/AR/NRTR-2004-45. The study found concentrations of lead, cadmium, and zinc in the Cape Krusenstern National Monument, with the highest levels in areas along the Red Dog Mine road. 4. Braund, 2005. 5. Dau, J. 2013. Caribou movements and the Red Dog road. Caribou Trails: News from the Western Arctic Caribou Herd Working Group 13:7. http://westernarcticcaribou.org/wpcontent/uploads/2013/07/CT-FINAL-reduced.pdf. Accessed 1 March 2013. 6. Restino, C. 2015. Caribou migration runs through northwest. The Arctic Sounder. Sept. 18. 7. Unless otherwise indicated, words quoted in this section are taken from interviews conducted by Sarah Betcher. 8. Eilpern, J. & S. Mufson. 2015. Royal Dutch Shell suspends Arctic drilling indefinitely. Washington Post. Sept. 28. 9. Alaska Department of Environmental Conservation (ADEC). 2015. Former Utica Mine. http://dec.alaska.gov/spar/csp/sites/ utica.htm. Accessed 22 January 2015. 10. Greene, M. 2013. Presentation to the Resource Development Council Conference. http://www.akrdc.org/membership/ events/conference/2013/presentations/greenespeech.pdf. Accessed 22 January 2015. 11. BLM. 2004. Map of coal resources. http://www.blm.gov/ pgdata/etc/medialib/blm/ak/fdo/ksp.Par.34528.File.dat/3_28_ coal.pdf. Accessed 22 January 2015. 12. McDowell Group. 2012. The economic impacts of Alaska’s mining industry. Prepared for the Alaska Miners Association. In 2010, the Red Dog Mine represented 73% of U.S. zinc production and 4.4% of global zinc production. During 2010, Teck shipped 1.1 million tons of zinc concentrate and 94,000 tons of lead concentrate. 13. Ibid. As of June 2011, Teck had paid AIDEA a total of $342 million in fees for using the road. 14. Ibid. NANA’s royalties are based on share of net production, which will increase by increments of 5% every five years, up to a maximum of 50%. 15. SRK Consulting. 2011. NovaGold Resources, Inc. NI 43-101 Preliminary Economic Assessment Ambler Project. Prepared for NovaGold Resources, Inc. 16. AIDEA. 2015a. Ambler Mining District Industrial Access Road.http://www.ambleraccess.org/projects/ambler/index. html. Accessed 22 January 2015. 17. Zazu owns 50% interest in the property, with Teck owning the remaining 50%. Zazu is the named operator for the deposit. 18. AIDEA. 2015b. Lik Deposit Project Fact Sheet. Accessed 22 January 2015. http://www.aidea.org/Portals/0/PDF%20Files/ PFS_LDTS.pdf. 19. JDS Energy & Mining, Inc. 2014. Preliminary economic assessment technical report, Zazu Metals Corporation, Lik Deposit, Alaska, USA. Prepared for Zazu Metals Corporation. 20. HDR. 2014. Feasibility study Lik Deposit transportation system. Prepared for the Alaska Industrial Development and Export Authority. 21. Northwest Arctic Leadership Team. 2013. Northwest Arctic regional energy plan. Prepared by the Northwest Arctic Energy Steering Committee. August 2013 draft; see also BLM. 2015. Hidden treasures: Alaska minerals. http://www.blm.gov/ak/st/ en/prog/minerals/mineral_assessment_prog/specimen.html. Accessed 22 January 2015. 22. mindat.org. 2015. Inmachuk River Mine, Fairhaven District, Northwest Arctic Borough.. Accessed 23 January 2015. 23. NANA, 2014. 24. Pizzolato, L., S. E. L. Howell, C. Derksen, J. Dawson, and L. Copland. 2014. Changing sea ice conditions and marine transportation activity in Canadian Arctic waters between 1990 and 2012. Climatic Change 123:161-173. 25. Milne, R. 2013. Arctic shipping set for record as sea ice melts. Financial Times, July 21. Accessed Mar 2014. http://www. ft.com/cms/s/0/c947b810-f06a-11e2-929c-00144feabdc0.html. 26. Humpert, M. 2014. Arctic shipping: an analysis of the 2013 Northern Sea Route season. Arctic Institute. http://www. thearcticinstitute.org/2014/10/NSR-Shipping-Report.html. Accessed 26 January 2015. 27. Lew, J. 2014. Northwest Passage, the final frontier for cruise ships. Mother Nature Network. http://www.mnn.com/lifestyle/ eco-tourism/stories/northwest-passage-the-final-frontier-forcruise-ships. Accessed 26 January 2015; see also McGarritty, J. and Gloystein, H. 2013. Big freighter traverses Northwest Passage for 1st time. Reuters. September 27, 2013. http:// www.reuters.com/article/2013/09/27/us-shipping-coal-arcticidUSBRE98Q0K720130927. Accessed 26 January 2015. Iñuuniaḷiqput Iḷiḷugu Nunaŋŋuanun: Documenting Our Way of Life through Maps 544 CHAPTER 5: MAPPING THE WAY TO AN ECONOMIC FUTURE 28. Gibson, J. 2015. Decline in number of ships sailing through Arctic waters in 2014. http://perfscience.com/ content/2141008-decline-number-ships-sailing-through-arcticwaters-2014. Accessed 26 January 2015. 29. Ruskin, L. 2014. Arctic shipping chills in 2014. Alaska Public Media, Dec. 31. http://www.alaskapublic.org/2014/12/31/ arctic-shipping-chills-in-2014/. Accessed 10 October 2015.”Arctic Council. 2009. Arctic marine shipping assessment 2009 report. 30. Arctic Council. 2009. Arctic marine shipping assessment 2009 report 31. Eilpern & Mufson, 2015. 32. Northwest Arctic Borough. 2013. Poised for development: a strategic approach for the Northwest Arctic Borough. January. 33. U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service. 2011. Selawik National Wildlife Refuge revised comprehensive conservation plan. June. 34. Northwest Arctic Leadership Team, 2013. 35. Available at http://www.commerce.state.ak.us/dca/plans/ NorthwestArcticBorough-EDP-2004.pdf; Accessed 21 March 2015. 36. Alaska Department of Community and Economic Development. 1997. Rural Alaska tourism. Infrastructure needs assessment: Northwest Arctic Borough. Alaska 545 Department of Commerce and Economic Development, Divisions of Trade and Development and Tourism and the Northwest Arctic Borough Economic Development Commission. 37. Northwest Arctic Leadership Team, 2013. 38. Run-of-the-river hydroelectric facilities use the natural flow of a watercourse to power small generation equipment. 39. Alaska Village Electric Cooperative. 2010. Cosmos Hills hydropower study: reconnaissance report. September. Prepared by WHPacific, Inc. 40. Northwest Arctic Leadership Team, 2013. 41. Alaska Department of Transportation and Public Facilities. 2013. Kotzebue to Cape Blossom environmental assessment and finding of no significant impact. December. 42. Northwest Arctic Borough, 2013. About 25% of flights to the mine are cancelled due to local weather conditions, and a new airport in Noatak capable of jet landings would alleviate this problem. 43. AIDA, 2015a. 44. The Alaska Department of Transportation and Public Facilities began road studies in 2010, and AIDEA has continued working on this project. Iñuuniaḷiqput Iḷiḷugu Nunaŋŋuanun: Documenting Our Way of Life through Maps AFTERWORD AFTERWORD “The Iñupiat were “delayed-return” hunter- “The Eskimo is a dying race.” gatherers who acquired most of their raw materials at one point in time and consumed them at a later one. Food was sometimes consumed a year or more after it was placed in storage. During the intervening period, three basic problems had to be solved: preservation, access, and protection.”1 The above quote from Dr. Ernest “Tiger” Burch, Jr., a wellrespected social anthropologist often cited and quoted in this volume, accurately describes Iñupiaq culture, but for one thing—the use of the past tense. As is clear from the narratives and maps in this atlas, the traditional Iñupiaq hunting, trapping, fishing, and gathering cycle, while always having to adjust to historical events and modernday challenges, lives on today in the seven westernmost communities of the Northwest Arctic Borough. Reports of non-Native explorers visiting the area around the beginning of the 1900s often lamented the demise of the soon-to-be extinct Iñupiat.2 But, the histories of these seven villages show how the annual food-harvesting cycle, like a needle in an elder’s fingers stitching together the skin of history, sustained the bodies and spirits of the Iñupiaq people and carried them forward to this day. By the time non-Native teachers brought paper and pencil to the Arctic, people of European ancestry had already been traveling the continental United States and the far reaches of the globe for years, instructing oral indigenous cultures on several continents in the ways of writing culture. In most, if not every one, of these places, the local system of meticulous transmission of history, belief, societal conventions, and local values through spoken words entrusted to a chosen few3 began to give way to an inked form controlled by newcomers not in possession of the indigenous language. As we see all around us to this day, too often when words are written down mistruths gain truth status. This was undeniably the case when it came to written records of Iñupiaq life recorded by outside explorers, missionaries, and bureaucrats over not just the first years, but for at least a hundred years after their arrival. The methods used in this atlas seek to create an accurate record by telling the story of today’s Iñupiaq traditional harvesting patterns on maps of Iñupiaq ancestral lands as told to the project’s researchers by Iñupiaq villagers living within the Northwest Arctic Borough’s boundaries. E.S. Harrison, 1905 In many ways, today’s Iñupiaq villages are as modern as they are traditional. This is not a bad truth or a good truth, but an inevitable truth. As Tlingit writer Ernestine Hayes points out,4 if outsiders had never taken an interest in the natural resources of the North, Alaska Native history would have continued to move forward into the modern age. This idea rings especially true in today’s technological times. Even if east coast whalers had not brought rifles and wheat flour, the Kivalina hunter would have eventually spotted the Korean container ship on the horizon and paddled out to it. If missionaries had not come to the Arctic and built schools and churches a hundred years ago, Iñupiaq children would likely still be supplementing the knowledge passed down to them in their elders’ words with books and websites, and they would likely still be writing on paper and blogs about modern-day Iñupiaq issues.5 Just as indigenous methods of communication change with history’s advance, so do indigenous economic systems. The people of the North today find themselves in a process of transition from oral to written conventions of communication and in a process of transition from living only off of the surrounding land and sea to depending on paychecks distributed by entities that have found their own ways of benefitting from the same land and sea. Preservation. Access. Protection. Burch’s three words capture the challenges facing the Northwest Arctic Borough today. Which resources must be preserved? To whom and where should access be allowed? What must be protected in order to make sure a living hand will be here to turn the needle of the Iñupiaq harvesting cycle through the skin of future history? 1. Burch, E. 1998. The Iñupiaq Eskimo Nations of Northwest Alaska. Fairbanks: U of Alaska Press, p. 147. 2. See e.g., Harrison, E.S. 1905. Nome and the Seward Peninsula: History, Description, Biographies and Stories. Seattle Souvenir Edition. Google Books free ebook. 3. Lord, Albert B. 1960. The Singer of Tales. Cambridge, MA: Harvard University Press. 4. Hayes, Ernestine. 2012. What shall we do with our histories? Evening at Egan, University of Alaska Southeast, December 14. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EtsYZzLI2uc. Accessed 16 May 2014. 5. See, e.g., http://storm-swan.wix.com/relocatekivalina. Iñuuniaḷiqput Iḷiḷugu Nunaŋŋuanun: Documenting Our Way of Life through Maps 546 547 Iñuuniaḷiqput Iḷiḷugu Nunaŋŋuanun: Documenting Our Way of Life through Maps REFERENCES Alaska Beluga Whale Committee (ABWC). 2011. 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