CARE & INFORMATION SHEET
YELLOW
YELLOW BELLIED SLIDER
Yellow belly slider
(Trachemys Scripta Scripta)
YELLOW BELLY SLIDER TURTLES ORIGINATE FROM
FROM THE SOUTHERN ROCKY
ROCKY AREAS OF
AMERICA, THEY ARE FOUND
FOUND IN LAKES, RIVERS AND MARSHES.
Adult yellow bellies can grow to an average of 5” – 8”.
Females are always larger and can grow up to 13” and can live up to 40 years.
CHOOSING YOUR TURTLE
When buying your turtle you need to make sure it is fit and healthy, a healthy turtle should
be:
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Bright and alert
Should have no signs of breathing problems
Have clear eyes with no sign of discharge
Should be active
Have no marks on his skin, any lumps or sign of fungus.
Have a clear vent area
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HOUSING
A large escape proof aquarium (24” x 12” x 15” minimum) is adequate for 1 adult yellow
belly, although bigger is better for these energetic turtles. Add a further 20 gallons for
each turtle added. Never lift a tank that is full of water! You could hurt your back as it is
very heavy, and a tank full of water can easily break when lifted. These turtles like to bask,
so a land area as well as a water area is essential. This can be created in a number of
ways: one-way is to purchase a turtle platform that easily attaches to the side of the tank
with suction pads. This is the easiest method and will give you a larger water area.
Another way is to raise the gravel slightly on one side to create an island type land area.
Pieces of floating cork bark or rock that sticks out of the water works just as well. Yellow
belly sliders can be housed with musk turtles and Mississippi map turtles, but ask a
member of staff before adding new members to your tank.
SUBSTRATE
It is advisable to have a thin layer of aquarium gravel at the bottom of the fish tank. This
will make your tank look more appealing and will give your turtle a chance to dig, as it
would in the wild.
HEATING
There are various different methods of heating your turtle tank. The most popular and
easiest method would be to use an aquarium heater, the same as is used in a fish tanks.
However please ask a member of staff for advice.
TEMPERATURE
All reptiles are cold blooded and need external heat to maintain their body temperature.
The water temperature should be around 75°F. The air temperature should be around mid
70°F’s and the basking area needs to be 80°F-90°F.
LIGHTING
UV lighting is beneficial to these turtles but not essential. The basking area (land area)
temperature will need to be around 80°°F and 90°°F, so a spot bulb is needed, and will also
make viewing your turtle easier.
FURNISHINGS
As these yellow bellies originate from rocky habitats, rocks, plants and pieces of slate can
be added, to make the tank more appealing for you, and to stimulate the turtle. Both
artificial and living plants can be added to the tank, but the turtle will eat the living plants.
CLEANING AND WATER CARE
CARE
All tap water should be dechlorinated before being added to the tank, this is done by
adding a few drops of liquid dechlorinater, (the same as is used for fish), to the water
before it is put in the tank. RO5 is also very good for turtles, and means you do not have to
add any chemicals to your tap water. RO5 water has been put through a 5 stage reverse
osmosis unit and has had all the impurities removed, making it safe for your turtle. Ask a
member of staff for details on what would be best for you.
It is advisable for you to clean your turtle tank out once a week, as they are very messy. A
lack of water changes and poor water quality will lead to an unhealthy turtle, which could
lead to eye infections and fungal problems. A good quality filter is also recommended, to
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help you keep your tank clean. A submersible, internal filter is best for this as they are
long lasting and easy to maintain.
FEEDING
All turtles are omnivores (which means they eat both meat and plant matter) so a varied
diet is best for them, to help them grow and be healthy. Bloodworm (live or frozen) tetra
reptomin small crickets and some vegetables, such as green
leaves and carrots.
Crickets – protein 50% / fat 44% / calcium 0.2% / phosphorus 2.6% / chitin (exoskeleton)
medium amount (must be gut loaded for 24 hours before feeding to your animal for proper
nutrition)
Wax worms – protein 27% / fat 73% / calcium 0.1% / phosphorus 0.9% / chitin (exoskeleton)
(HIGH IN FAT, should only be used as an occasional treat)
DISEASES AND AILMENTS
AILMENTS
A healthy tortoise should be bright and alert with shiny eyes. Its body should be carried
above the ground and the head and limbs should withdraw if alarmed. The shell should be
hard and there should be no signs of the following.
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Soft Shell or Metabolic Bone Disease
Disease is due to a lack of calcium. Providing a good
quality food and a calcium powder sprinkled on the live food and green matter.
Vitamin A deficiency is also a big problem in young turtles. Vitamin A is found in
plant matter such as dandelion leafs and carrots.
HANDLING
It is advisable for you not to over handle your turtle, because it could stress them until
they become tame. Turtles can become very tame and even feed out of your fingers. Their
cheeky character means they get to know who you are quickly and even come to great
you in the morning. When moving your turtle, hold it by the shell with your thumb and
index finger. For adult turtles use both hands.
SHOPPING LIST
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Escape Proof Aquarium
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Vitamin Supplement
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Heat Source
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Substrate
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Thermometer
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Cage Furnishings
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Spot Light
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Book on Turtles
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Food
Please do not hesitate to contact us for any advice you may need about any of your pets,
by calling into the shop, by phone or by emailing
emailing petadvise@[email protected].
cabin.co.uk.
Critters Cabin
5-7 Standhill Road
Carlton
Nottingham
NG4 1JL
Tel.
el. 0115 9402093
Email: petadvise@[email protected]
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